Spray paint/finishing/MDF - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 13 Old 02-06-2016, 04:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Spray paint/finishing/MDF

So building some 1099's i've read to seal the heck out of them, bondo the edges and 50/50 glue/water the whole thing, sand it, do it again, then prime it, then sand it, paint, sand paint.

So are those expensive spray paints worth it? like Montana Gold? I plan to do my 1099's White with black metal grills.

Montana Paints only come in Matte finish, which is supposed to be a plus and unusual for spray paint. Can you just prep and pain in matte and be done? or do you need to hit it with some kind of Clear coat after?

I want these things to look good, and im not opposed to spending money on top quality materials and paint, but I don't want to be flippant either, it is, afterall only white.
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post #2 of 13 Old 02-06-2016, 06:05 PM
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I've never worried about Bondo on the seams. I just use a roller and paint the whole thing with a 50/50 mix of water and wood glue then sand smooth. Maybe hit the edges twice. I've actually used spackling or other wood putty in the seams and never had any issues.

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post #3 of 13 Old 02-08-2016, 06:56 AM
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I've always just primed and primed until the seams are primed! I use an HVLP and I'll concentrate the spray pattern and go along the edges. I can watch the primer disappear into the end grain but it eventually starts to show and then eventually is primed.
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-12-2016, 09:00 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
I've always just primed and primed until the seams are primed! I use an HVLP and I'll concentrate the spray pattern and go along the edges. I can watch the primer disappear into the end grain but it eventually starts to show and then eventually is primed.
I did this and it seems to hold up so far.

Look for a high yield or high build primer. Then coat it well, multiple coats. Sanding in between coats in some cases.

If you use a fast drying primer and HVLP gun it's not too bad. Spray a few coats, sand it. Stop short of exposing MDF. Spray more, sand more. Repeat until you have the desired effect.

With any painted MDF or wood surface you will risk the possibility of long term cracking. Nothing you can do. Even the highest end painted kitchen cabinets have it.

MDF is better than normal wood in that it's more consistent, and the moisture content of pieces is generally the same indoors. But that is not a guarantee.

They have a cool method on cabinet doors where they coat MDF with thermofoil, and that seems to be the best alternative to painting. Thermofoil is a surface finish applied to cabinets and other stuff like that where they replace paint, and it's mostly used on top of MDF. It is some kind of a plastic material which is thermoformed to the profile of and MDF cabinet door.

From what I understand it is a thin, tight, heat-sealed plastic wrap used to mold over an MDF substrate. I am not sure if it is very DIY friendly as you need to heat it, or bake it to make it done right. Put your speakers in the oven? lmao.
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post #5 of 13 Old 03-12-2016, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I decided to bondo the seams, and prime with Zinsser BIN and sand to 400 grit, make sure everything's perfect, then take them to a Auto body shop for a topcoat spray in a booth. I think that's the only way im gonna get the finish I want.

The bondo was a pain in the ass tho, i've only done my Volt 10's. I may wish to skip this step on the 1099's. I've considered just sanding the seams to 600 grit to reduce how much paint they will absorb and maybe glue-size and then 6 coats of BIN. the BIN product is pretty damn good in it's own right.

Last edited by Elderblaze; 03-12-2016 at 07:59 PM.
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post #6 of 13 Old 03-18-2016, 11:07 AM
 
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post #7 of 13 Old 03-27-2016, 02:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elderblaze View Post
I decided to bondo the seams, and prime with Zinsser BIN and sand to 400 grit, make sure everything's perfect, then take them to a Auto body shop for a topcoat spray in a booth. I think that's the only way im gonna get the finish I want.

The bondo was a pain in the ass tho, i've only done my Volt 10's. I may wish to skip this step on the 1099's. I've considered just sanding the seams to 600 grit to reduce how much paint they will absorb and maybe glue-size and then 6 coats of BIN. the BIN product is pretty damn good in it's own right.
Like Erich said a couple applications of a mix of 50/50 water and wood glue will seal up the cut edges and seams on mdf.
I had no problem doing my stuff this way either.
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post #8 of 13 Old 03-27-2016, 04:15 AM
 
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A good sealing primer works as well in less steps.
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post #9 of 13 Old 04-05-2016, 07:11 PM
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I sand the mdf fully and then again. then I use drywall mud on the edges / seams........almost transparent after sanding with 220. then I prime a couple of coats....sand again. check in the sunlight...fill sand (most of the time not nec. )

one more coat of primer....then, up to now krylon rattle can. color coat and then their clearcoat....comes out not too bad.

next up will be hvlp. will be experimenting with Pittsburgh paint "breakthrough" as soon as the weather warms up....almost record cold here in michigan last night.
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post #10 of 13 Old 04-13-2016, 11:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Ended up rolling some paint on myself gwave up on gloss.
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post #11 of 13 Old 04-18-2016, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccssid123 View Post
I sand the mdf fully and then again. then I use drywall mud on the edges / seams........almost transparent after sanding with 220. then I prime a couple of coats....sand again. check in the sunlight...fill sand (most of the time not nec. )

one more coat of primer....then, up to now krylon rattle can. color coat and then their clearcoat....comes out not too bad.

next up will be hvlp. will be experimenting with Pittsburgh paint "breakthrough" as soon as the weather warms up....almost record cold here in michigan last night.
I would love to see the end result of all that work. I figured 2 coats of priming, sanding in between would be enough. I'm not going to seal the edges and will probably go the same route as Tux and use extra coats of primer to seal the edges.
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post #12 of 13 Old 04-18-2016, 07:09 PM
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I do cabinets for a living and we sometimes do jobs with mdf doors. The best way honestly is to use a good high solids primer. Which one depends on what type of paint you're going to use on top. I normally use a product called white vynil sealer. 2-3 coats doubling up of the edges works well. You can top coat it with any laquer, acrylic or oil based paint.

One thing to becareful of is not to sand with too fine of sand paper. On Raw mdf I go up to 180, maybe 220 at the most. On the edges I do 320 to seal it a little more before primer. In between coats of primer and paint I use 320. If you go higher than that, you can have intercoat adhesion problems. You just don't need to go finer that 320, it won't look any better if you use a finer grit.

Either way finishing to get nice results is time consuming and hard work. But it can be very satisfying if you get the results you were shooting for!

Keep on DIYing
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post #13 of 13 Old 04-19-2016, 01:09 PM
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