Slot Ported 18" Subwoofer Flat Pack - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 67 Old 03-04-2016, 06:34 PM
 
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Just sell the darn kit already!


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post #32 of 67 Old 03-05-2016, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
All programs will give you different numbers because they don't take into account where the port is inside the enclosure. There's also a discussion in the DIY section about chuffing and different port sizes. I would think there are lots of curves posted for the SI-18, Dayton RS-18, and the HST in that section as well. I'll see what I can find.

Having said that, this enclosure is modeled by forum member LTD02 and was designed to be just a bit bigger than the original 'MartyCube' that so many people have built. It comes in around 5.4cuft with a port area 42 sq inches and I believe about 42" long or so. It's the same internal volume as the Stonehenge with the same sized port. The tuning on the Stonehenge was tested with an OmniMic to be 18.5hz. There were a few people using the bigger HST in the Stonehenge with good results.


I just put them up on the site, but they won't be cut until next week. I won't know the price until they're cut and figure in packaging material, Paypal fees, etc.
Do you think you will have plenty for stock or should I pre-order 2.
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post #33 of 67 Old 03-05-2016, 04:02 PM
 
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Slot Ported 18" Subwoofer Flat Pack

Pre order not available yet, at least from what I see on the website
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post #34 of 67 Old 03-05-2016, 09:50 PM - Thread Starter
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They should last a while once in stock. I can't set up a preorder because I don't know how much they'll cost until they're cut and I don't recall what forum member Chalugadp used to sell the MartyCube for. These have a bit more internal volume and cut on a CNC with lettered parts and rabbet joints, but I don't think they'll cost any more than those did.

I'm getting custom shipping boxes made up and so that should help make them easier to package too. Shipping might be a bit steep being that they will likely be two 55 - 60lb boxes when packaged up.

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post #35 of 67 Old 03-06-2016, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
They should last a while once in stock. I can't set up a preorder because I don't know how much they'll cost until they're cut and I don't recall what forum member Chalugadp used to sell the MartyCube for. These have a bit more internal volume and cut on a CNC with lettered parts and rabbet joints, but I don't think they'll cost any more than those did.

I'm getting custom shipping boxes made up and so that should help make them easier to package too. Shipping might be a bit steep being that they will likely be two 55 - 60lb boxes when packaged up.
Thanks for the update Erich, i guess member Chalugadp priced the kit at ~$230+shipping, was hoping your kit will be cheaper!
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post #36 of 67 Old 03-06-2016, 08:08 AM
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im in for 2, I can have it shipped to my work to cut down on shipping cost.

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post #37 of 67 Old 03-06-2016, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ocpmach View Post
Thanks for the update Erich, i guess member Chalugadp priced the kit at ~$230+shipping, was hoping your kit will be cheaper!
Fingers crossed that it's inline of the same costs as the Stonehenge cabinet.

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post #38 of 67 Old 03-06-2016, 08:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ocpmach View Post
Thanks for the update Erich, i guess member Chalugadp priced the kit at ~$230+shipping, was hoping your kit will be cheaper!

That's pretty expensive being that they weren't cut on a CNC and didn't use the highly refined MDF. I think he used the ultralight stuff which is much easier to ship, but people said their boxes weren't staying put on the floor when playing due to how light they were. The stuff I use is actually 12% heavier than regular MDF and a lot heavier than the ultralight stuff. These should still be cheaper than that, even after CNC cutting, highly refined MDF, and the custom shipping boxes and packaging material.

The Stonehenge was about $177 but the Cube18 uses a double thick front panel, but it shouldn't add too much extra though.
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post #39 of 67 Old 03-07-2016, 01:27 PM
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I already have 2 sealed Dayton HO 18's, and I'm wanting to add a pair of ported subs to my setup. I have 2 LAB15 drivers (the 8ohm version) and was going to pick up a pair of your 15" slot-ported boxes to put them in, but this new 18" slot-ported box has me wondering if it would be worth it to sell the LAB15's and pick up 2 more Dayton HO 18's. Any idea how the output on these would compared to the 15" kit? With the 15" setup the total cost would be about $400 (2x$200 shipped per box), and with the 18" setup I'd be looking at $482 for the drivers ($241x2, using two $20 off $250 coupons) + $500 for the boxes (~$250/ea delivered?) - $300 selling the LAB15's = $682. I'm just trying to get a second opinion on whether there will be that big of a difference so I can weigh the cost vs performance gain.
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post #40 of 67 Old 03-08-2016, 08:03 PM
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Nice looking - you should have done this a long time ago.
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post #41 of 67 Old 03-09-2016, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jleonard711 View Post
I already have 2 sealed Dayton HO 18's, and I'm wanting to add a pair of ported subs to my setup. I have 2 LAB15 drivers (the 8ohm version) and was going to pick up a pair of your 15" slot-ported boxes to put them in, but this new 18" slot-ported box has me wondering if it would be worth it to sell the LAB15's and pick up 2 more Dayton HO 18's. Any idea how the output on these would compared to the 15" kit? With the 15" setup the total cost would be about $400 (2x$200 shipped per box), and with the 18" setup I'd be looking at $482 for the drivers ($241x2, using two $20 off $250 coupons) + $500 for the boxes (~$250/ea delivered?) - $300 selling the LAB15's = $682. I'm just trying to get a second opinion on whether there will be that big of a difference so I can weigh the cost vs performance gain.


Are you aware of some of the challenges integrating sealed and ported subs? Phase rolls over 180 degrees on ported subs at tuning, which can lead to cancelations with the sealed subs at those frequencies.

Red is the Lab15 in 4CF tuned to 20Hz.
Blue is the 460HO sealed in 4CF.
Green is the 460HO ported in 5.4CF and 4CF both tuned to 20Hz. Why 4CF? You could theoretically retrofit your existing sealed boxes with ports. That might take a bit of work and fiddling, may not be practical for you.

I'd personally go all ported or all sealed.

Get the Cube 15s for the Labs, and either new Cube 18 enclosures for the 460HOs, or retrofit ports into the existing sealed enclosures.

Or consider selling the Lab15s and getting the 460HO sealed bundles.

Selling the Labs for ported 18s is an option, it does get you a little more output over the 15s, but you have to decide if it's worth the cost.
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post #42 of 67 Old 03-09-2016, 06:44 PM
 
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Agreed with the former from rhodes. One thing I don't see much discussion about in HT and home audio world that is a big big no no in Pro Audio is the mixing of subs, not just sealed vs ported but mixing drivers and enclosure designs. There is a tremendous amount of cancellation in he space when you mix say (for terms of this arena) a Mini Marty using a ABC driver and a Marty Cube with an ABC driver or worse and XYZ driver. Using same multiples for ported and horns and coupling the mouths of said vents yields exponential gains in both low end extension and SPL. For my design I will be employing (or deploying) this Slot Ported enclosure in multiples. My only other consideration would be folded horns like an OS LFE or OS Pro coupled.

That being said, if you use say a box tuned for Midbass like the MBM 12", and cross it over from say 100 to 120hz, then cross your larger 18-24" low end tuned (15-20hz) from say 40-50hz LP on down and of course bi amp these post Processing (such as Mini DSP or Driverack), you can most certainly mix designs.

Anyway just sharing a different perspective. I hear a lot of mixing of subs all driven by the LFE channel and if you do a sweep, you will see cancellation in the spectrum. The Audessey type processor of course will attempt to compensate but you're taking from a bank account there that you should not be (headroom etc) that should be used for output, etc.

Anyway sorry to preach, just sharing a different perspective.


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post #43 of 67 Old 03-11-2016, 12:43 PM
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Patience is a virtue...


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post #44 of 67 Old 03-15-2016, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
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but people said their boxes weren't staying put on the floor when playing due to how light they were.
I have this issue with the lighter box bouncing around a bit. Is this cube made with the ultralight mdf strong enough to support one of these heavier cubes stacked on top of it (to prevent it moving as well as this is the only space in my bedroom to place a 2nd box)? I'm assuming yes, but I'm still new to the DIY scene and don't want to find out the hard way that it won't haha
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post #45 of 67 Old 03-15-2016, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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The ones I'm getting made up don't use the ultralight, they use the highly refined MDF that's heavier than regular mdf, and much heavier than the ultralight stuff.

If you have one of Chalugadp's boxes made from ultralight then it would certainly be strong enough to put weight on top of it to keep it from moving. I'm guessing he used that stuff to cut down on shipping costs, but it will cause a subwoofer to move around due to it's low weight.

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post #46 of 67 Old 03-15-2016, 06:46 PM
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I was thinking about putting 893's on top of these cabinet's for my mains. Should I flip the 893's over to have the mid's on top and the horn on the bottom. I wasn't sure if the horn would be to far above ear level if it wasn't flipped.
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post #47 of 67 Old 03-16-2016, 10:22 AM
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The Stonehenge was about $177 but the Cube18 uses a double thick front panel, but it shouldn't add too much extra though.
@Erich H has the kit been finalized and do you have a projected cost?

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post #48 of 67 Old 03-16-2016, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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I've got them here and the custom shipping boxes. I'm waiting for the cost of everything, but should know very soon.
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post #49 of 67 Old 03-16-2016, 10:58 AM
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post #50 of 67 Old 03-22-2016, 07:56 AM
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So....
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post #51 of 67 Old 03-22-2016, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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They'll be on the site by the weekend. I've had all the parts here but I'm working on the 1099 speaker stuff right now and it's taking up a good portion of my time. Should be caught up by the weekend though.
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post #52 of 67 Old 03-22-2016, 09:07 AM
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They'll be on the site by the weekend. I've had all the parts here but I'm working on the 1099 speaker stuff right now and it's taking up a good portion of my time. Should be caught up by the weekend though.
Looking forward to these, thanks for the update!
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post #53 of 67 Old 03-24-2016, 12:57 PM
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Based on another thread they just posted the T/S Parameter on the new SI DS4 18" subs. It looks like it's the replacement for the HT subs. I know this kit may be a little small for the ultimax 18". I was wondering how this new SI sub would work in this flat pack.

Qes: 0.653
Qms: 2.194
Qts: 0.503
Fs: 18.75 Hz
Vas: 270.07 L
Mms: 561.4 g
Cms: 128.3 um/N
Rms: 30.14
Re: 3.94 Ohm
BL: 19.97 TM
Dd: 15.5
Le: 1.52 mH
Sd: 1218.0 cm^2
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post #54 of 67 Old 03-24-2016, 03:49 PM
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5.4 CF is small for any home theater 18. The DS4 models somewhat similarly to the UM18.

UM18 in red, DS4 in green, 5.4 CF tuned to 20Hz, 1200W.
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post #55 of 67 Old 03-24-2016, 06:09 PM
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5.4 CF is small for any home theater 18. The DS4 models somewhat similarly to the UM18.

UM18 in red, DS4 in green, 5.4 CF tuned to 20Hz, 1200W.
If I'm reading the graphs correctly and compare this graph to your previous graph that included the 460 HO. It looks like I will get a better response out of the 460 HO. My room is not huge 20X15X9. I was going to do a dual woofer set up under a pair of 893's.

Thanks for plotting this so quick for me. It helps a lot.

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post #56 of 67 Old 03-25-2016, 05:43 AM
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Oops. I posted on the wrong page.
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post #57 of 67 Old 03-25-2016, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1ssz View Post
I was thinking about putting 893's on top of these cabinet's for my mains. Should I flip the 893's over to have the mid's on top and the horn on the bottom. I wasn't sure if the horn would be to far above ear level if it wasn't flipped.
How do you put speakers on top of the subs without having unwanted noice or moving?
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post #58 of 67 Old 03-25-2016, 01:57 PM
 
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How do you put speakers on top of the subs without having unwanted noice or moving?

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post #59 of 67 Old 03-27-2016, 05:50 PM
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Cube 18 is on DIYSG and available for ordering:

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ported-...-1/cube18.html

It runs just shy of $200 + shipping.
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post #60 of 67 Old 03-27-2016, 06:06 PM
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How do you put speakers on top of the subs without having unwanted noice or moving?
If the box is properly built and braced, then anything on top shouldn't be any more of a problem then pretty much anything else in the room which responds to the soundwaves. However, you might want to be careful of the finish of the speaker and subwoofer, so adding some buffer between can be helpful.
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