iView-3500STB Tuner & DVR Owners Thread - Page 181 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5401 of 5445 Old 07-07-2019, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Kalevan View Post
I would greatly appreciate getting copies of more recent firmware.

I have two new remotes, and two old remotes.

I have two of the first-generation STB units, and one of the second-generation STBii WITH the ch3/ch4 switch.
PM me an email address and I'll send you V7, V9, and V13. All those should work on your 1st-generation STBs.

I think iView's Web page still lists the three firmware versions for the 2nd-generation units (with the ch3/ch4 switch): V1, V2a, and V3.
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I think the third-generation STBii DOES NOT have the ch3/ch4 switch.
AIUI that is correct.
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Did I miss any other generations?
That's it for the 3500. There's also a 3200 now, but it's just a stripped-down version of the 3rd-generation 3500STBII's. They removed the front-panel display and controls, component video outputs, and moved the power supply to an external 5v "wall-wart." This makes the 3200 a much smaller STB. (Confusingly, the 3200 does have a ch3/ch4 switch, but the hardware inside is 3rd-gen, not 2nd-gen.)
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** on Apple OSx the MD5 utility is called md5. On linux it's md5sum.
Windows doesn't come with either of those, but Microsoft has a free utility called "sigcheck" you can download that will compute MD5 hashes. My hashes agree with yours, but there's still a discrepancy between the file names and what System / Information displays if you install them on your 1st-gen 3500STB:
3500STB-USB-Upgrade-All-Flash-V6.bin, MD5 D366EA1DB2CAB4D0A166BF73200CD654, displays SW Version: 20130806 V3
3500STB-USB-Upgrade-All-Flash-VR.bin, MD5 BC99DD774E0462DDD2E3B553387DF358, displays SW Version: 20130829 V6

This is why I said I think iView has them mislabeled. From what you've said, they've apparently been mislabeled for at least five years.
At least, it's very confusing to have one version number in the file name, and show another in the System / Information window; but that's iView for you.
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post #5402 of 5445 Old 07-07-2019, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
PM me an email address and I'll send you V7, V9, and V13. All those should work on your 1st-generation STBs.

Well... I tried reloading the V6 and VR versions (both residing on the same HDD in the same directory) into the Gen-1 unit with the oldest firmware version.

On the TV screen, I saw a reboot, a 3 second interval, and another reboot that returned me to the top level.

In both cases, when I rechecked SYSTEM:Information, the firmware version reported was still V4.

Next...
I removed all the .bin files from the flash drive, and copied the V6 version to it.
This time, I saw it reboot... and apparently do nothing, or loop infinitely, or a deadlock.

I stopped counting after two minutes.

The TV screen says IVIEW® and the display says "boot". The I/O light on the thumb drive is out, so I assume it's not being read.


The forum's IM interface tells me I can't IM anyone until I've posted 15 times.

Excuse me while I go cry in my beer...

Jerry
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post #5403 of 5445 Old 07-07-2019, 11:04 PM
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Same behavior as above with the VR firmware on the thumb-drive.

One small correction to the previous post.

The light on the (SanDisk) thumb-drive stays on while the whole works is frozen.
I would have added this to the previous post but I don't have permission to edit previous posts.


The only way to get the 3500's attention back is to pull the power plug.



I have another question...


Has anyone ever encountered a case where an 3500 has caused a (NTFS formatted) disk full of video to have its directories corrupted? I wonder if it's a "feature" of out-of-date firmware... ?



Has anyone ever had a FAT formatted drive become corrupted while attached to a 3500?

I'm trying to sort out whether corrupted directories was just a faulty drive (bad block or sector) or some other root cause.

Jerry
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post #5404 of 5445 Old 07-08-2019, 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
If you have a scope you could check for AC ripple across C6; if you see any it's probably worth trying to replace it.

If a chip is overheating you might be able to find a heat sink that would fit it, giving it a new lease on life.

If you do have to replace it, you could consider a 3200 if you don't need the 3500's component outputs. Advantage is the power supply is a 5V wall-wart, so it could be replaced easily if it ever goes out.
The main chip is overheating, the heatsink is very hot to the touch. The troublesome unit ran fine for 3 hours with the cover off.

Is there a solution to this problem? Perhaps cutting a hole in the cover above the heatsink?

Not sure how one could install a small fan without it running 24/7?
Thanks, Trevor.
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post #5405 of 5445 Old 07-08-2019, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalevan View Post
I tried reloading the V6 and VR versions (both residing on the same HDD in the same directory) into the Gen-1 unit with the oldest firmware version.

On the TV screen, I saw a reboot, a 3 second interval, and another reboot that returned me to the top level.

In both cases, when I rechecked SYSTEM:Information, the firmware version reported was still V4.

Next...
I removed all the .bin files from the flash drive, and copied the V6 version to it.
This time, I saw it reboot... and apparently do nothing, or loop infinitely, or a deadlock.

I stopped counting after two minutes.

The TV screen says IVIEW® and the display says "boot". The I/O light on the thumb drive is out, so I assume it's not being read.
Sounds like the thumb drive may have Microsoft's exFAT format. A lot of larger thumb drives come formatted that way nowadays. ExFAT isn't FAT32, but looks enough like it to fool the iView.

I'm hoping the iView isn't bricked - if it will boot back to V4, use it to reformat the thumb drive. Make sure to select FAT32. Then you can try again.
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The forum's IM interface tells me I can't IM anyone until I've posted 15 times.
Let me try PM'ing you; hopefully it'll let you respond without having 15 posts.
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post #5406 of 5445 Old 07-08-2019, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor_Bartram View Post
The main chip is overheating, the heatsink is very hot to the touch. The troublesome unit ran fine for 3 hours with the cover off.

Is there a solution to this problem? Perhaps cutting a hole in the cover above the heatsink?

Not sure how one could install a small fan without it running 24/7?
Thanks, Trevor.
You could power a small fan from the USB port. Of course that may not leave enough juice for a USB-powered HDD, but a thumb drive (or an HDD with external power) should still work.
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post #5407 of 5445 Old 07-08-2019, 03:55 PM
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You could power a small fan from the USB port. Of course that may not leave enough juice for a USB-powered HDD, but a thumb drive (or an HDD with external power) should still work.
So the USB port is only powered when the unit is operating? Powered on or timer recording?


Does anyone have any recommendations for a USB quiet fan?
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post #5408 of 5445 Old 07-08-2019, 04:57 PM
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So the USB port is only powered when the unit is operating? Powered on or timer recording?
On most units, the USB is powered when the unit is powered on (whether or not recording), which is perfect for a cooling fan. Power is shut off during standby.

IIRC a few of the older units had continuous power to the USB port, but I think the USB ports were consistently switched on/off by the time of the Ch3/Ch4 boxes.
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Does anyone have any recommendations for a USB quiet fan?
Here's one that was recommended on the eMatic thread: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070ZHY6G

It's meant to go under a laptop but you may have better luck putting it on top of the iView where the ventilation slots are.
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post #5409 of 5445 Old 07-09-2019, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
PM me an email address and I'll send you V7, V9, and V13. All those should work on your 1st-generation STBs.
---snip---
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Sounds like the thumb drive may have Microsoft's exFAT format. A lot of larger thumb drives come formatted that way nowadays. ExFAT isn't FAT32, but looks enough like it to fool the iView.

I'm hoping the iView isn't bricked - if it will boot back to V4, use it to reformat the thumb drive. Make sure to select FAT32. Then you can try again.
Let me try PM'ing you; hopefully it'll let you respond without having 15 posts.

Well... fwiw I cannot reply to an IM until the post count gets up there.


Yup. Should try reformatting the thumb drive. It might possibly help.

Can always use the dd utility to restore the original format.



If a chip doesn't have a heat-sink on it, and gets hotter than 70ºC, a heat-sink can be procured for it and glued on with a high temperature heat-conductive cement. CPU chip heat sinks use Beryllium-oxide loaded grease between chip and heat-sink + a holder, because the grease isn't anything like glue.



2.5" disk drives draw 5V power from USB if the drive doesn't have provisions for wall-wart power supply. (if it has a wall wart, it doesn't draw power from the iView)


2.5" Seagate 1T drives draw about 1Amp from 5V. The Western Digital draws about 1.1Amp.


3-1/2" drives require 5V and 12V and 2 Amps starting current... but are powered by a wall-wart. So they don't draw power from the 3500.



The typical tiny cpu fan draws about 0.1A to 0.3A at 5V.

Jerry
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post #5410 of 5445 Old 07-09-2019, 11:24 AM
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A blower-style fan can direct the air at the chip. e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Comidox-Brushl...ronics&sr=1-12
(Stunning that you can get five for less than $8)


How about the ultimate... thermostatic proportional fan control like
http://www.amazon.com/Comidox-Temper...tronics&sr=1-8
It shuts itself off when the chip is put into standby.


Small chip size heat-sinks with heat conductive two-sided adhesive
https://www.amazon.com/Easycargo-Ras...tronics&sr=1-4


It bothers me that a chip would be overheating.

A chip that's overheating should be non-functional.

Every bit of the die does something important. Dead region = dead chip.

Nevertheless... it wouldn't hurt to check the power supply voltages.

A chip that supplies current to the USB connector for a 2.5" disk might get warmer
than if it a 3.5" disk wall-wart powered disk were plugged in.

Jerry
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post #5411 of 5445 Old 07-09-2019, 02:51 PM
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Well... fwiw I cannot reply to an IM until the post count gets up there.


Yup. Should try reformatting the thumb drive. It might possibly help.

Can always use the dd utility to restore the original format.
Man - this forum sure makes it tough on newbies doesn't it?

Don't worry; this evening I'll upload V7 through V13 to Firefox Send and PM you the link to retrieve them. I'm pretty sure the forum will let you read PMs without having 15 posts.
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post #5412 of 5445 Old 07-10-2019, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Kalevan View Post
A blower-style fan can direct the air at the chip. e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Comidox-Brushl...ronics&sr=1-12
(Stunning that you can get five for less than $8)


How about the ultimate... thermostatic proportional fan control like
http://www.amazon.com/Comidox-Temper...tronics&sr=1-8
It shuts itself off when the chip is put into standby.


Small chip size heat-sinks with heat conductive two-sided adhesive
https://www.amazon.com/Easycargo-Ras...tronics&sr=1-4


It bothers me that a chip would be overheating.

A chip that's overheating should be non-functional.

Every bit of the die does something important. Dead region = dead chip.

Nevertheless... it wouldn't hurt to check the power supply voltages.

A chip that supplies current to the USB connector for a 2.5" disk might get warmer
than if it a 3.5" disk wall-wart powered disk were plugged in.
The first Comidex fan should do the trick. It's the right size: 2" diameter, 3/4" thick. I'll cut a circular hole in the cover and mount the fan on the inside of the cover using a high quality double sided adhesive (thick for vibration relief). The fan outlet will be positioned to blow air over the heatsink. I'll check each fan first to make sure air flow and vibration are acceptable.
A pack of five will give me three spares.
The easiest place to pick off power is at the USB connector printed circuit board. It is a four wire ribbon cable. I looked it up online and it appears the outer wires are 5V and ground. I can check polarity with my voltmeter.
I'll report back if this is successful. Thanks everyone for your help!
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post #5413 of 5445 Old 07-15-2019, 02:13 AM
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Man - this forum sure makes it tough on newbies doesn't it?

Don't worry; this evening I'll upload V7 through V13 to Firefox Send and PM you the link to retrieve them. I'm pretty sure the forum will let you read PMs without having 15 posts.

I got busy with other distractions the past few days. The link expired before I could use it.
(appointments, a friend with health issues, beehive inspections...)



I tried formatting the thumb-drive to Fat32 with the Gen-1 box. Then I put the VR firmware on it.

This Gen-1 box still goes to never-land. After about a day it seems to reboot itself. The firmware version didn't change.

I'm running out of obvious things to tweak. I can't imagine the obscure ones.

It shouldn't matter, for instance, if I set its clock to 2012...



This unit did once suffer power supply failure. I just replaced electrolytic capacitor C6,
but didn't measure the output voltage, nor attempt to measure the ripple/noise.

Tomorrow perhaps.

Am I the first one to ever have had firmware load problems after fixing the power supply?

Jerry
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post #5414 of 5445 Old 07-15-2019, 01:30 PM
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I got busy with other distractions the past few days. The link expired before I could use it.
No worries; I'll upload it again tonight and send a new link.

I'm with you; I can't see why replacing a power supply capacitor would stop you from updating the firmware - especially if everything else works as before....
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post #5415 of 5445 Old 07-18-2019, 11:58 PM
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No worries; I'll upload it again tonight and send a new link.

I'm with you; I can't see why replacing a power supply capacitor would stop you from updating the firmware - especially if everything else works as before....

Hmmm... didn't see a message from you, JHB, with a new Link... and the old from the 9th doesn't work any more.


In the mean time I'll try tinkering with setting/clearing other setup items in the desperate hope the unit's firmware upgrade somehow depends on it.



Our science group built single board data acquisition computers deployed into the ice at the south pole. We tried really, really hard to make them unbrickable because they could never be brought back to the shop for repair. A download engine in a PLD loaded code from the surface cable into one or the other of two flash memories. If one of the flash memories failed, the embedded CPU could boot from the other flash. (btw, the CPU was on the same die as a field-programmable gate-array that acquired the science data)

That project wasn't strongly limited by mass production rules like these ivew boxes are. i.e. no extra parts.


There is always trickery involved in rewriting the memory that the processor in a box like this boots from. Either the processor has to run code from internal memory to rewrite the flash, or some other device on the board has the download engine programmed into it.

I'm impressed that even with the failures to upgrade the firmware, the flash isn't getting hopelessly corrupted.

Jerry
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post #5416 of 5445 Old 07-19-2019, 02:15 PM
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Whoops - forgot!

I'll set a reminder on my phone to re-upload those firmware files tonight and send you another link. It's free so I can do it as many times as it takes....

Edit: PM sent. Should be good until 6 PM Central tomorrow. Let me know if you don't get to it in time, and I'll upload it again.

Last edited by JHBrandt; 07-19-2019 at 04:25 PM.
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post #5417 of 5445 Old 07-20-2019, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Trevor_Bartram View Post
The first Comidex fan should do the trick. It's the right size: 2" diameter, 3/4" thick. I'll cut a circular hole in the cover and mount the fan on the inside of the cover using a high quality double sided adhesive (thick for vibration relief). The fan outlet will be positioned to blow air over the heatsink. I'll check each fan first to make sure air flow and vibration are acceptable.
A pack of five will give me three spares.
The easiest place to pick off power is at the USB connector printed circuit board. It is a four wire ribbon cable. I looked it up online and it appears the outer wires are 5V and ground. I can check polarity with my voltmeter.
I'll report back if this is successful. Thanks everyone for your help!
I went with a Sunon Maglev 35mm x 10mm square fan (MC35100V2-00U) purchased from Digikey. I mounted the fan on the chassis floor (using a dab of epoxy) between the power supply and main board blowing air over the main chip's heatsink. The fan's leads were long enough to stretch to the USB connector board where I picked off 5V power. The USB board had holes for a missing 100uF capacitor that I used to mount a shunt reverse bias diode to protect the USB port from fan motor back EMF as it runs down. I'm not absolutely sure the diode is necessary but it is a simple precaution to protect my USB 3.1 flash drive. 5V power is only present when the iView is on. The fan is vibration free and quiet. I put the cover back on and the iView ran trouble free for three hours. No additional baffles etc were required to improve air flow. The best way to test for overheating is to play back a long recording, if the iView resets due to overheating during playback it defaults to TV reception.
I added a fan to my second iView that uses an HDD and USB charger for power. The only problem I encountered is the external USB charger back feeds 5V power to the iView's USB port, so the fan was on all the time. The only practical solution is to drill out the 5V conductor in the USB Y cable plug connecting from the HDD and USB charger to the iView's USB port. The 5V conductor is accessible thru the square latching holes on the USB plug. Be careful to drill out the correct connection, as the ground conductor is also accessible thru other square holes. I cleaned out debris from the USB connector using a toothbrush and forced air. I powered up the iView and the USB plug modification worked like a charm.
HTH, Trevor.
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post #5418 of 5445 Old 07-20-2019, 02:19 PM
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Super...
So now I have this set of MD5 "fingerprints" for the flash files
(usb_upgrade_all_flashV9.bin) = 4c90c4d25f30fbd0b7cf89c29cd52908
(usb_upgrade_all_flashV13.bin) = b17107fc40cebdead9eb2f56b3644aea
(3500STB-USB-Upgrade-All-Flash-VR.bin) = bc99dd774e0462ddd2e3b553387df358
(usb_upgrade_all_flashVR.bin) = bc99dd774e0462ddd2e3b553387df358
(3500STB-USB-Upgrade-All-Flash-V6.bin) = d366ea1db2cab4d0a166bf73200cd654
(usb_upgrade_all_flashV6.bin) = d366ea1db2cab4d0a166bf73200cd654
(3500STBII-USB-Upgrade-All-Flash-V1.bin)= d4071d3c3c69d2312f825a23cea6a46a
(usb_upgrade_all_flashV1.bin) = d4071d3c3c69d2312f825a23cea6a46a
(usb_upgrade_all_flashQAM.bin) = f3e7552d97a63a4d3f1309fec9b39fbe




We're not hooked up to cable, so for me I assume the QAM file doesn't offer me anything useful, and may sacrifice something else. Is that about right? I'll ignore it unless there is a compelling reason to install it.

(Wikipedia says QAM is used with US cable systems, not for ATSC over-the-air broadcast)

Jerry
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post #5419 of 5445 Old 07-20-2019, 02:26 PM
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IVIEW 3500STBII channels not showing up when scheduling recording

I am able to view and live record QAM stations from my unscrambled cable tv. They are channels 22-xx through 33-xx. When I attempt to schedule a recording the station choices are up to 8-xx and then it skips over to 34-xx and I cannot select (because the channel is not listed to be selected) any of those channels. I've looked through settings which are NTSC format, USA country, Antenna power OFF, signal type CABLE and modulation LOOP THROUGH, OSD and Audio language both ENGLISH and Digital audio PCM. Am I missing something? I can scroll up and down with the remote and watch channels 22-xx through 65-xx but I can only select from maybe 20% of the channels I can tube to and watch or record live when attempting to schedule a recording. Anyone ever have this issue? It is a brand new unit I ordered just last week. everything works great until I try to choose a channel I can view to schedule a recording in the future on. I am using a 8G thumb drive to record and it was formatted by the device before attempting to record. I have been successful recording on this USB stick and have watched the recordings off from it.

Thanks
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post #5420 of 5445 Old 07-20-2019, 11:08 PM
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My oldest Gen-1 iView3500 running the V4 firmware did successfully install V13 firmware.

Thank you, thank you JHB.



Steven... Flash memory thumb drives aren't famous for being speedy.

If you have hic-ups in the play-back, the problem may be that the write speed of the
iView exceeds the write-speed spec of the flash memory.

Some stations (especially stations with many sub-channels) send pretty low bit rates.

Some stations don't skimp on the speed and resolution, so the bit rate is higher.
Some thumb drives use those micro SDXC flash chips designed for full HD or 4K video recorders/video cameras.

They should be able to deliver all the performance you need. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SD_card#Speed



Since I'm restricted to off-the-air usage only, I can't comment on QAM and cable quirks. Sorry
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post #5421 of 5445 Old 07-21-2019, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalevan View Post
My oldest Gen-1 iView3500 running the V4 firmware did successfully install V13 firmware.

Thank you, thank you JHB.



Steven... Flash memory thumb drives aren't famous for being speedy.

If you have hic-ups in the play-back, the problem may be that the write speed of the
iView exceeds the write-speed spec of the flash memory.

Some stations (especially stations with many sub-channels) send pretty low bit rates.

Some stations don't skimp on the speed and resolution, so the bit rate is higher.
Some thumb drives use those micro SDXC flash chips designed for full HD or 4K video recorders/video cameras.

They should be able to deliver all the performance you need. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SD_card#Speed



Since I'm restricted to off-the-air usage only, I can't comment on QAM and cable quirks. Sorry
I had no luck with the low power USB3 drives five years ago, I didn't try the expensive high power high speed drives as I was concerned about overheating the iView's USB socket.
Recently I tried a Samsung USB3.1 Bar Plus 64GB drive; these are inexpensive and low power (they have a metal case to help dissipate heat but do not get hot) and have worked reliably.
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post #5422 of 5445 Old 07-21-2019, 08:10 AM
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My issue is not playing back recordings. My issue is with scheduling a recording. I am unable to select certain channels within a range when scheduling a recording. When I open the schedule recording (use green button on remote) the display defaults to channel 2-xx (pic 5717 attached). I use the remote to scroll up to the channel i want to record which is 23-35. As it scrolls up to and attempts to go higher than 17-xx (pic 5718 attached) it jumps down to 7-xx (pic 5719 attached). I can attempt to scroll higher but again once I reach 18-xx it auto jumps back to 7-xx. If I attempt to scroll lower, it rolls over from 2-xx to 64-xx and scrolls down to 32-xx and then jumps to 4-xx. At no time will it ever scroll to any channel between 18-xx and 32-xx whether scrolling up or down.

I am able to manually watch channels 18-xx through 34-xx. I was watching channel 23-35 and was able to record that channel while watching it LIVE using the RED RECORD button. The recording worked and it also played back perfectly do I believe the USB I am using is OK. I am able to watch and scroll through every channel. I just cannot select or scroll to any channel to set up a future recording using the scheduling GREEN BUTTON to schedule a recording. I appreciate any help.
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post #5423 of 5445 Old 07-21-2019, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfQuill View Post
OK, I actually searched thru my old emails and indeed the spec is one second. Here's a quote from the FCC reg:

FCC Document A/69:2009, 25 December 2009:

• System Time Table (SST). The System Time is required to be accurate to within plus or minus one second. It should be checked daily and, ideally, locked to GPS time. See Section 6.6. A/65 recommends that the STT be inserted into the TS a few milliseconds before each seconds-count increment of the house time with the to-be-valid value.

Since I found this old email, I exaggerated the error, it was actually 4 minutes, but plenty to ruin recordings.

A light lit up for me. In our area the 3500 finds 22 major channels (total 88 counting sub channels). Most channels were broadcast time that met the above spec.

One channel that broadcast a favorite old rerun was broadcasting time that was significantly out-of-sync (about 4 minutes) with GPS time. Their offset seemed to be stable. Their programs started synchronized to the time they broadcast. :-(
If I left the iView sitting on that channel, it would record the programs properly.
If I left the iView sitting on a channel with accurate time, I would have to offset the recording start times to compensate for the offset.

I don't think I've run into a case where the broadcast time was out of sync with GPS and the programming started in sync with GPS.

PITA


I'm now motivated to check up on the transmitted time accuracy of my local stations.



I'm also motivated to check up on the leap-second problem.
In order to catch the opening of certain shows I have to program the start-time one minute ahead of the advertised start time. The iView starts the actual recording about 40 seconds after the time I programmed it to start recording. I get 20 seconds or so of commercial before the program starts... plus file names with offsets.



Last topic: Why, oh why did they pick a file name format, and a file name sorting algorithm that don't match. I would have preferred the date-time to be YYYYMMDDHHMM so that files recorded in the same months of different years wouldn't show up next to each other as they do now. (either that or change the sorting order for play back so file names were by station and chronological)... Changing the file name formats now would be disruptive. Changing the sorting order could be done. Maybe they could give you a set-up switch to select which sorting order to display.


That's my 2¢

Jerry
-- oakland
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post #5424 of 5445 Old 07-21-2019, 12:07 PM
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I haven't tried the firmware version with QAM in the file name (which, I believe, identifies itself as V7 if you install it). My best guess is that it displays the raw QAM channel and subchannel numbers vs. the virtual channel numbers identified via PSIP data. This lets you watch unencrypted cable channels that you wouldn't otherwise see.

@Steven Allchin , there's a frustrating bug in iView's firmware (also HomeWorx, eMatic, and probably all these Mstar-based boxes) that prevents you from selecting some channels at the Event Add and Event Edit dialogs. As you scroll through the channel numbers, it may skip channels or even go the wrong direction (moving down when you try to scroll to a higher number, or vice versa) and get caught in a loop of only a few channels.

The bug affects both OTA and cable, but OTA users usually get around it by scheduling recordings from the EPG instead. Cable users usually don't have an EPG to rely on, so they can watch or start a recording manually, but they can't schedule a recording on any of the skipped channels.

Scanning in or deleting channels seems to affect which channels are messed up this way, but it's pretty random.
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post #5425 of 5445 Old 07-21-2019, 02:59 PM
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Just made a curious discovery while I was trying to find a workaround for the bug mentioned above. (No luck, BTW.)

I have the same bug with channel 41-4, so I decided to experiment by clearing my channel list and scanning everything in manually instead of relying on the iView's automatic scan. To clear my list, I thought I'd just set my iView to "Cable" and do a full scan. Amazingly, that didn't (quite) work! It still found my VHF channels.

I'm guessing it would not have found my UHF channels had I let it get that far, because cable channel frequencies are offset from OTA UHF channels by 2 MHz. But VHF frequencies line up, and it found those channels.

So apparently, during a channel scan, the modulation doesn't matter. The only thing Air vs. Cable changes is the frequencies scanned: in Cable mode, it starts off at channel 1 (72-78 MHz), which is only used by a few cable systems. (I assume if it finds a channel 1, it offsets channels 5 & 6 to make room for it.) Then it scans channels 2-13, which match the OTA frequencies. Then cable channels 14+ are scanned at their appropriate frequencies. Anyway, if it finds either an 8VSB (OTA) or QAM (cable) signal on the frequency it's scanning, it tries to load it into the channel list.

Not sure what good that does anyone; I just found it rather interesting.
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post #5426 of 5445 Old 07-21-2019, 09:02 PM
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I was able to get the channels to appear for future event recording by removing other channels that I was not using or were scrambled. It seems the event tuner (GREEN BUTTON ON REMOTE CONTROL) will only allow so many channels to be selected for event recordings. Once I removed a lot of unused channels all those I wanted appeared in the selectable list.
Thank you very much for the ideas and help!
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post #5427 of 5445 Old 08-04-2019, 11:43 AM
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I have a 3500STBII, using it for OTA. What is the "Antenna Power" setting for? No mention of it in the manual. Thanks...
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post #5428 of 5445 Old 08-04-2019, 12:06 PM
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Replacement

My IView seems to have bit the dust. Should I replace it with another IView or is there a better, comparable unit? I know there are many that are essentially the same. Are there any that stand out?

Indirectly Outta Compton
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post #5429 of 5445 Old 08-04-2019, 12:57 PM
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Sorry to hear that @crabboy . I don't think any really stand out as head-and-shoulders above the rest; at least, I've never seen any that do. HomeWorx and iView are still at the top of the heap, but the heap is more like a mesa doesn't really have much of a "top"....
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post #5430 of 5445 Old 08-04-2019, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr5 View Post
I have a 3500STBII, using it for OTA. What is the "Antenna Power" setting for? No mention of it in the manual. Thanks...
It puts 5V DC on the RF input. Pretty useless unless you have an RF amp that can take 5V via its RF output jack, such as Winegard's LNA-200 or CM's "Amplify." Even then I don't know if the iView can supply the amount of current those amps would require. I've never tested it myself.

Edit: I can at least confirm that an iView 3200STB will supply enough power to a CM Amplify to turn on its LED. The 3200's power supply is only 2 amps though, so if you use this option, there won't be a lot of current left over to power, say, a HDD. I'd recommend an HDD with its own power supply, or a flash drive that can keep up with HD recording. But then, I recommend those anyhow
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Last edited by JHBrandt; 08-04-2019 at 01:23 PM.
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