Channel Master DVR+ Owners Thread - Page 410 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12271 of 16820 Old 06-11-2016, 10:12 AM
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perhaps kids fool play ?

as to DMM, well you'll need also o-scope for initial testing ..
- check all power rails
- see if oscillator is OK
- see of data signals between USB and WiFi chips
etc
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post #12272 of 16820 Old 06-11-2016, 11:51 AM
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Kudos to Channel Master

I'd posted earlier in the week about PSIP. The reason I did that is, for a variety of reasons, the DVR+ became my main dvr and I rapidly discovered that I had a very, very, broken guide. I assumed that there were no more maintenance and support for the product and dived headlong into how to use PSIP.

To use PSIP, it's best to set your ZIP to 00000. That eliminates Rovi so you can still be connected to the Internet for the non-antenna channels. I first tried manual timers - they worked fine, but quickly gave up due to the default names used for the folders (I guess I could have named those folders). Next, I tried to record by name - I did not adopt GreaseMonkey's approach of 5 minute recordings to get PSIP data. I recorded programs by name which repeatedly daily from PBS, CBS and NBC and they recorded fine on successive days even though my PSIP info was less than a day for these channels - so obviously as PSIP data was added it was doing name matching. I was prepared to adopt GreaseMonkey's approach if what I tried didn't work - thanks again, GreaseMonkey, for describing the approach. So, I had a functioning dvr.

I still missed the Rovi guide. I used the procedure described in this thread to install back-level 124R. The guide was still messed up with 124R. However, I was fairly certain it worked fine months ago when I had 124R. So I concluded something in the guide data from Rovi had to have changed. I decided to contact Channel Master. I was pleasantly surprised on how responsive they were. After some email exchanges I actually got calls from a toll free number yesterday evening, firstly with a suggestion and secondly to confirm it had worked. They suggested I use a zip code from a town in a nearby county! The primary symptoms I was experiencing were that for most of the major networks I did not get Rovi guide information. There were a bunch of other symptoms too but after switching to 00000 and back to my zip most of the other symptoms which had led to a very muddled guide disappeared and it became clear that most of the major networks (and minor stations) were not getting the custom logo (ergo, no Rovi information). Of course, some DID have the logo and 2 week guide information

Conclusion: Since 124R which once displayed a functioning guide, no longer did so, the data from Rovi must have changed in some fashion to make it no longer compatible with the firmware. Please note I'm not pointing fingers. From everything I've read Channel Master has contracted with Echostar to produce the firmware and Rovi to provide the guide and unless one knows the Rovi spec and how the data conforms to the spec there's no saying where the fault lies. However, given the symptoms I described, I was supplied with a zip that worked. So Channel Master was able to debug Rovi data for my zip, probably confirm that data would cause no guide for that NBC station and find that other zip which worked for me! It was four and a half hours after sending a message which said "My zip is xxxxx. W--- is the local NBC channel (n.1/n.2). It shows up with no logo and has no Rovi information. Does this help simplify things?" that I got the first of those two calls - I was leaving work and the next call was an hour or so later when I was able to confirm that the suggestion had worked. I was impressed. I'm now back on the latest firmware (still with the new zip code).

I thought I'd write this for two reasons:
Add to the collective knowledge to help some else faced with a similar situation.
Offer kudos to Channel Master for their support.

Disclaimer: the above has been written while still filled with goodwill towards those in CM who found the solution :-)

Knowing how frustrating it can sometimes be to search for stuff and not find it ... the method to install back-level firmware is:
- Pull the power cable out.
- Insert the USB flash drive with 124R (or whatever back-level firmware you want to try out).
- Hold down the front panel key and re-insert the power cable.
- Watch the LED. As it goes Red -> Blue -> Red -> Off release it for about half a second, then press firmly three times. The red LED will flash and the down loader screen will appear if this has been done correctly.
- Wait ... if you did this correctly, the back-level firmware installs.
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post #12273 of 16820 Old 06-11-2016, 08:17 PM
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post #12274 of 16820 Old 06-11-2016, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post
Or they simply "ban" their site like many companies did with Google TV (Logitech Revue) and its browser.

Updated: ABC, NBC, CBS Block Website Access from Google TV

There was a hack that got around it but I lost interest in Google TV so I don't know who ended up "winning"
Sounds like Google's mistake was not making the Google TV browser simply identify itself as Chrome. The hack was probably just a way to change Google TV's user-agent string so web sites couldn't tell the difference any more.

CM should just pay Google, Mozilla, or whomever to put a generic Web browser on the DVR+, and not put anything unique in the user-agent string that Web servers could key off of. That way the networks couldn't block the DVR+ browser without also blocking all Linux PCs with the same browser.

Browsers get updated from time to time, of course, but CM could just include the newest browser version with each firmware update.
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post #12275 of 16820 Old 06-11-2016, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell_ View Post
... To use PSIP, it's best to set your ZIP to 00000. That eliminates Rovi so you can still be connected to the Internet for the non-antenna channels. ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by wizwor View Post
I agree, this is a very nice tip! I just tried it, and it works as described.

One thing I would add is that the Time Zone gets set to Eastern for ZIP Code 00000. If that's not your zone, simply change it to the correct zone.
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post #12276 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by pachinko View Post
I agree, this is a very nice tip! I just tried it, and it works as described.

One thing I would add is that the Time Zone gets set to Eastern for ZIP Code 00000. If that's not your zone, simply change it to the correct zone.
Thank you pachinko. Fixed.
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post #12277 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 03:34 AM
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Very nice blog post incorporating the new "knowledge" we have about the DVR+.
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post #12278 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 02:05 PM
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help! recently moved, and have been using the DVR+ directly into a tiny TV temporarily. today i moved it over to the big TV and it just reports "no signal."

tried using a different HDMI input, power cycling everything, no good. literally "no signal," not just missing channels or funky picture or something--no menus or anything.

moved it back to the small TV and DVR+ displays fine again. ruled out the big TV inputs and HDMI cable with other devices.

feeling stymied. what else can i try?
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post #12279 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidicus View Post
help! recently moved, and have been using the DVR+ directly into a tiny TV temporarily. today i moved it over to the big TV and it just reports "no signal."

tried using a different HDMI input, power cycling everything, no good. literally "no signal," not just missing channels or funky picture or something--no menus or anything.

moved it back to the small TV and DVR+ displays fine again. ruled out the big TV inputs and HDMI cable with other devices.

feeling stymied. what else can i try?
The new tv, is it a 4k tv? What is the firmware version are you running on the dvr+?

I think you need at least 132r on a 4k tv.
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post #12280 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidicus View Post
help! recently moved, and have been using the DVR+ directly into a tiny TV temporarily. today i moved it over to the big TV and it just reports "no signal."

tried using a different HDMI input, power cycling everything, no good. literally "no signal," not just missing channels or funky picture or something--no menus or anything.

moved it back to the small TV and DVR+ displays fine again. ruled out the big TV inputs and HDMI cable with other devices.

feeling stymied. what else can i try?
1. A different HDMI input port was tried, but did you set the TV input to the proper HDMI input port?

2. What happened during the power cycles? Did the DVR+ Logo appear. I think the logo appears even on 4K TVs with earlier DVR+ firmware versions. That would at least let you know that the HDMI input is working or not.

3. As Alainl12 pointed out, if it’s a 4K TV then DVR+ version 132R or later is required (CM’s comment)?

4. I was going to suggest verifying the antenna lead, but the DVR+ displays a “Signal Lost” message box, and goes on to describe the condition and what you can still do without a signal, so that’s not it.
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post #12281 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidicus View Post
help! recently moved, and have been using the DVR+ directly into a tiny TV temporarily. today i moved it over to the big TV and it just reports "no signal."

tried using a different HDMI input, power cycling everything, no good. literally "no signal," not just missing channels or funky picture or something--no menus or anything.

moved it back to the small TV and DVR+ displays fine again. ruled out the big TV inputs and HDMI cable with other devices.

feeling stymied. what else can i try?
One more thing you can try: hook it up to the small TV, go to Menu / Settings / TV & Audio Setup / Display Setup and change the resolution. It's probably at "Best Available" now, which is the default. Change it to 1080p (or a lower resolution if the big TV doesn't support 1080p) then try moving it to the big TV again.
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post #12282 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 04:34 PM
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Recently I've been having trouble with the "thin" remote control sending a good signal to the DVR+. The TV buttons work without any issues, but none of the DVR+ buttons work without having to squeeze the battery compartment cover, or just bang the remote control on the table. The batteries have a good charge (3.15 and 3.13 volts), so I did what I did a long time ago, and carefully stretched the coiled springs outward about an 1/8 inch. Still no joy.

Upon closer examination, I found that one of the battery side terminals was MUCH weaker than the other. So I gambled and carefully pulled (bent) that terminal inward. It had to be moved quite a bit to be effective, but that solved the problem. If you try this it's at your own risk! All of the buttons are again working first time every time. That terminal (the one nearest the middle of the remote control) is still not as stiff as the other, but at least it's working.

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post #12283 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 04:44 PM
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CMTV going backwards

Ugh; looks like we recently lost the France 24 news channel from CMTV. It was there last week but not now.
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post #12284 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pachinko View Post
Recently I've been having trouble with the "thin" remote control sending a good signal to the DVR+. The TV buttons work without any issues, but none of the DVR+ buttons work without having to squeeze the battery compartment cover, or just bang the remote control on the table. The batteries have a good charge, so I did what I did a long time ago, and carefully stretched the coiled springs outward about an 1/8 inch. Still no joy.

Upon closer examination, I found that one of the battery side terminals was MUCH weaker than the other. So I gambled and carefully pulled (bent) that terminal inward. It had to be moved quite a bit to be effective, but that solved the problem. If you try this it's at your own risk! All of the buttons are again working first time every time. That terminal (the one nearest the middle of the remote control) is still not as stiff as the other, but at least it's working.


i had been doing that on mine for awhile. remote would work intermittently, then i saw those side springs. one was out much further, so i to carefully pulled on it and it made a positive 'snap' out. this seemed to fix it for a few days, redo it, then eventually not so much. changed the batteries and no problems since. never did actually check voltage on the old batteries though.
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post #12285 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by defed View Post
i had been doing that on mine for awhile. remote would work intermittently, then i saw those side springs. one was out much further, so i to carefully pulled on it and it made a positive 'snap' out. this seemed to fix it for a few days, redo it, then eventually not so much. changed the batteries and no problems since. never did actually check voltage on the old batteries though.
Thanks! Yes, the battery charge should always be suspect until they are measured. In my case it's not the battery charge levels. They measure 3.15 and 3.13 volts (I've revised my earlier post to include these readings). A couple of months ago, when they were brand spanking new, they were around 3.2 volts each. There's also the visual clue from the brightness of the red LED below the power button. After the "repair" they appear to be the normal brightness. Before that, and the last time the batteries were too week, that light was quite faint.
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post #12286 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 09:16 PM
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i had been doing that on mine for awhile. remote would work intermittently, then i saw those side springs. one was out much further, so i to carefully pulled on it and it made a positive 'snap' out. this seemed to fix it for a few days, redo it, then eventually not so much. changed the batteries and no problems since. never did actually check voltage on the old batteries though.
Thanks for posting on the remote, my "old" 9-month ****-stick remote has been acting up intermittently. Tried to change out the batteries but now its totally dead. Have tried to pull-out the leads but with no luck. Completely unusable now.

Will contact support. Between this and the intermittant recording drops - this system has not been beta tested well at all. It worked pretty well for first 6 months, but is having more problems than its worth now. Definitely disappointed.
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post #12287 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by pachinko View Post
Thanks! Yes, the battery charge should always be suspect until they are measured. In my case it's not the battery charge levels. They measure 3.15 and 3.13 volts (I've revised my earlier post to include these readings). A couple of months ago, when they were brand spanking new, they were around 3.2 volts each. There's also the visual clue from the brightness of the red LED below the power button. After the "repair" they appear to be the normal brightness. Before that, and the last time the batteries were too week, that light was quite faint.
On further investigation I found this on CM site:

"Here is the secret on how to place the batteries in the remote. First, take the battery and slide it under the small metal clamp above the coil. Then lay it on top of the coil. This should allow the battery to make a positive connection. If the battery is simply placed on top of the coils, it will feel really tight and be hard to take out. This is not the correct way to use the batteries."


If you need to have a "secret" to putting in your pair of CR2032 batteries your design is a fkn failure.
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post #12288 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 10:15 PM
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On further investigation I found this on CM site:

"Here is the secret on how to place the batteries in the remote. First, take the battery and slide it under the small metal clamp above the coil. Then lay it on top of the coil. This should allow the battery to make a positive connection. If the battery is simply placed on top of the coils, it will feel really tight and be hard to take out. This is not the correct way to use the batteries."


If you need to have a "secret" to putting in your pair of CR2032 batteries your design is a fkn failure.
Hmm... I saw something like that from CM a while back (don't remember where), but none of what you copied makes any sense, unless they changed the design from the one I have (see the photo in my earlier post). In particular, what metal clamp above the coil? And the battery cannot just be laid down on top of the coiled spring, it needs to be pressed down to lock it into the cavity, otherwise it just bounces around when attempting to attach the compartment cover.

There's a hollow in the plastic case above the side connector which the battery is to be slid under, and that's what holds the battery down. Otherwise the battery would just be pushed up out of place by the coiled spring.

That wording aside, to me it's not very complicated, especially since the battery just won't fit into the cavity if pushed straight down because the side connector will not retract to allow the battery to bottom out in the cavity. Anyone trying to push it straight down (hopefully delicately), will find it just doesn't work that way.
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post #12289 of 16820 Old 06-12-2016, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alainl12 View Post
The new tv, is it a 4k tv? What is the firmware version are you running on the dvr+?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pachinko View Post
1. A different HDMI input port was tried, but did you set the TV input to the proper HDMI input port?

2. What happened during the power cycles? Did the DVR+ Logo appear.

3. As Alainl12 pointed out, if it’s a 4K TV then DVR+ version 132R or later is required (CM’s comment)?

4. I was going to suggest verifying the antenna lead, but the DVR+ displays a “Signal Lost” message box, and goes on to describe the condition and what you can still do without a signal, so that’s not it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
One more thing you can try: hook it up to the small TV, go to Menu / Settings / TV & Audio Setup / Display Setup and change the resolution. It's probably at "Best Available" now, which is the default. Change it to 1080p (or a lower resolution if the big TV doesn't support 1080p) then try moving it to the big TV again.
thanks so much for the ideas
  • the new TV isn't 4K (sadly)
  • DVR+ is on 132R
  • yeah, good thought, but we definitely set the TV input to the correct HDMI (it's easy on that TV)
  • after posting, we noticed we were able to see the DVR+ logo sometimes (made us more confused that it then went black). pretty sure it was only on cold boots
  • i should clarify: the DVR+ doesn't display "No Signal," the message is definitely generated by the TV (LG logo leaves no room for misinterpretation)
  • good call. i had checked the resolution and considered, but figured switching from Best Available to 1080 was nuts. can Best Available really be a bad idea? i'll try changing it.
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post #12290 of 16820 Old 06-13-2016, 12:14 PM
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is it normal for pq of the chanel master watching tv be less quality then watching hd Netflix?this is on a insignia55 inch 4k tv with Roku inside.

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post #12291 of 16820 Old 06-13-2016, 02:29 PM
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The best the DVR+ can do is 1080p, and the best resolution for any OTA channel is 1080i. If your TV can stream movies in 4K, they're going to look nicer than anything you get OTA.
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post #12292 of 16820 Old 06-13-2016, 02:37 PM
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thanks so much for the ideas

i had checked the resolution and considered, but figured switching from Best Available to 1080 was nuts. can Best Available really be a bad idea? i'll try changing it.
I think what "Best Available" tries to do is to query your TV to find out what it can support, then the DVR+ picks the highest resolution supported by both boxes (usually 1080p, but could be less with some older TVs). But with some TVs, that process seems to fail; if so, you just have to force the DVR+ to use a fixed resolution.
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post #12293 of 16820 Old 06-13-2016, 03:33 PM
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DVR+ and Oppo 103 for Netflix

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I wish it had netflix
I have my DVR+ connected to my Oppo 103D. They play nicely together and I get Netflix via the Oppo.

The DVR+ is connected to the Oppo via the Oppo's back HDMI port. Sound and picture are routed through the Oppo and everything works as expected. That then connects to my Panasonic projector throwing to the big Stewart screen, and the powered speakers for audio.

My youngest, age 6, doesn't know what a "real TV" is (or a VCR or a cassette audio tape or ...)

Scott
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post #12294 of 16820 Old 06-14-2016, 12:22 AM
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Got this in my email box ... not sure about your reaction, but I'm feeling as having stomach problem
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post #12295 of 16820 Old 06-14-2016, 11:15 AM
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Got this in my email box ... not sure about your reaction, but I'm feeling as having stomach problem
If I was to receive a DVR+ as a gift I'd Love It.
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post #12296 of 16820 Old 06-14-2016, 11:57 AM
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If I was to receive a DVR+ as a gift I'd Love It.
well, the ad/picture itself pushing me to the toilet, brrr
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post #12297 of 16820 Old 06-14-2016, 01:25 PM
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One more thing you can try: hook it up to the small TV, go to Menu / Settings / TV & Audio Setup / Display Setup and change the resolution. It's probably at "Best Available" now, which is the default. Change it to 1080p (or a lower resolution if the big TV doesn't support 1080p) then try moving it to the big TV again.
WORKED! many thanks
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post #12298 of 16820 Old 06-14-2016, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by P Smith View Post
Got this in my email box ... not sure about your reaction, but I'm feeling as having stomach problem
I don't think the ad would have been as nauseating if the kid has been thoughtful enough to include a 12-pack of ice cold beers with the DVR+.
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post #12299 of 16820 Old 06-18-2016, 12:23 AM
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One frustrating quirk...

There is one frustrating quirk that pops up occasionally that seems to apply to not only the DVR+, but all DVR's and even old VCR's. They all seem to have recording options for recording individual days, weekends and Monday - Friday. But there are a lot of programs that air after midnight--such as Seinfeld, the Law and Order programs, etc, and on strict clock time their air times are really Tuesday -Saturday. Because these programs saturate the program schedule it might not be desirable to use a Name Match to tag them, and better to set up a manual recording for the specific time period you want to record. But in doing that you will miss the program that airs at (or after) midnight Saturday.

In my case, I've been trying to record the last season or two of Law and Order: Criminal Intent--after Detective Goren got canned). I would use a Name Match to do it, but for some reason my DVR+ has screwed up the EPG for the channel (and subchannels) for the station in my area that airs it. In my area it airs on channel 27.1, which also has three subchannels: 27.2, 27.3 and 27.4. For whatever reason the EPG displays "Unknown Event" for both channel 27.1 and 27.2, with channel 27.3 showing the titles that air on 27.1 and the correct titles for what is airing on channel 27.4, but there is no programming information for any of those channels. I've tried rescanning that channel, but it doesn't correct the problem. I know the information is being broadcast because my TV and an old Philips DVDR show the correct information for all of those channels. It's only the DVR+ that has the problem. I'm not sure why it won't correct on a rescan, but in lieu of that it would be nice to have the option to record on a Tuesday - Saturday schedule in addition to a Monday - Friday/weekday schedule.

Putting my specific problem with the EPG for those channels aside, a lot of the indie channels and LPTV channels never include program name or other scheduling information in the EPG, so a Tuesday - Saturday schedule option would apply to them as well. The only other current option is to create a separate recording schedule for the after midnight airings on Saturday.
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post #12300 of 16820 Old 06-18-2016, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greasemonkey View Post
There is one frustrating quirk that pops up occasionally that seems to apply to not only the DVR+, but all DVR's and even old VCR's. They all seem to have recording options for recording individual days, weekends and Monday - Friday. But there are a lot of programs that air after midnight--such as Seinfeld, the Law and Order programs, etc, and on strict clock time their air times are really Tuesday -Saturday. Because these programs saturate the program schedule it might not be desirable to use a Name Match to tag them, and better to set up a manual recording for the specific time period you want to record. But in doing that you will miss the program that airs at (or after) midnight Saturday.

... it would be nice to have the option to record on a Tuesday - Saturday schedule in addition to a Monday - Friday/weekday schedule...
I agree, but would take it a step further. There should be another option that opens a dialog containing check boxes for each day of the week, and that would allow us to set any combination of days.

While we wait eternally for such options, I would use the "Daily" repeat option, and just delete the unwanted recordings.
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