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post #31 of 120 Old 08-20-2016, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
I guess I should have asked how close you are? That antenna looks a lot like my Channel Master 3020. Those antennas provide a good clean signal without much multipath.

I'm 30 miles out, though, so I do use a Winegard Boost preamp. I need it for our weakest stations but without some attenuation, it does overload the iView and HomeWorX. (My other devices handle the signal fine without overloading.)
I was thinking more along the lines of a kink, or other damage to the shielding, but since you already tried other cables, I'd say your cable probably isn't the problem.Sounds like you're very close to the towers. Even the exposed end of a cable can act as a weak antenna if you're really close.

If that's the case, you can pick up stray signal anywhere along the line. So I'd probably try to minimize the number of connections; perhaps antenna-->splitter-->attenuator-->RCA. Make sure all the connections are good and tight to minimize stray signal pickup.

Ideally, I'd use a 4-, 6-, or 8-way splitter, depending on how many devices I had to feed, and probably a variable attenuator so I could easily dial in the signal strength that worked best.Thanks! The "7802" identifies the SoC. Most of these boxes use either a 7816 or a 7802; the 7802 seems more common in newer ones.

The 7816 and 7802 firmware are very similar, but there are some differences. In particular, 7802 firmware generally supports closed captions when playing a recording, while 7816 firmware generally doesn't. So I'd guess the RCA will display CCs during playback?
Where would I find this attenuator? Who sells it?

I'm close but not within miles of the TV towers. ~18 miles as the crow flies. (RS VU-190XR is kind of overkill for me, but it did give me clear reception on every full power station in the analog era).

I installed another splitter on the cable going to the DVR. Thought it cleared up the breakups but then they came back tonight on the same affected channels. Rechecked the connections and that somehow cleared up the breakups. Moving the cable slightly must have fixed the problem. I got a feeling that the cable is like a pair of rabbit ears... You find a position where reception is constantly good but then it changes within the next few days, requiring re-adjustment.

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post #32 of 120 Old 08-20-2016, 08:56 PM
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I must confess I've never bought one myself; I've just "faked it" with splitters. But I've had good experience with Solid Signal's products, so this one looks like a good bet:
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=att-1

You just adjust it with a Philips screwdriver. If you're lucky you can find a setting that works across the board, from your weakest stations to your strongest ones. If not, you may have to decide from which end of the spectrum you can sacrifice a station or two.

At 18 miles you'll get a pretty strong signal from that antenna but you're right; it shouldn't be overwhelming. But it might still be too strong for the RCA, I suppose, assuming it uses the same tuner as the iView and HomeWorX. If so, an attenuator might be able to help.

Sometimes breakups like these are just random. A station may come in clearly one day and break up the next for no apparent reason. Sometimes playing with the antenna can help; in my case, it wasn't always best to aim it straight at the towers. I suspect aiming it "off" a bit helped cancel some reflections that were giving me trouble.

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post #33 of 120 Old 08-21-2016, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowdog 88 View Post

I rechecked the connections and that somehow cleared up the breakups.

Moving the cable slightly must have fixed the problem.

I got a feeling that the cable is like a pair of rabbit ears...



How old are these cables? RG6 100% shielded? Better yet, double or quad? Manufactured connectors or consumer crimped-on? Hex or Compression connectors? The hex-pressed connectors were a bad design and unreliable. The can work ok initially, but months or years later can end up with poor conductivity.

Too high of a failure rate, from my experience. Then I got a compression kit. No wonder cable companies use these. Far more reliable and hold up much better.

I'll assume the cabling is in great shape... no pinched or dented areas or severe bends, etc?

I'll also assume everything up at the antenna is properly secured. No water intrusion - current or in the past?

Age of the cable? Old, weathered cable with poor capacitance can be a problem.

How about the center conductor length? What if it could be a bad connection within the tuner, like my old goofy Digital Stream box that would do lightning-quick signal drops to 0 for about a split second or two?

I haven't noticed this drop-out problem with this used
Digital Stream box from eBay so far.



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post #34 of 120 Old 08-21-2016, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CleCakYngMfd View Post
How old are these cables? RG6 100% shielded? Better yet, double or quad? Manufactured connectors or consumer crimped-on? Hex or Compression connectors? The hex-pressed connectors were a bad design and unreliable. The can work ok initially, but months or years later can end up with poor conductivity.

Too high of a failure rate, from my experience. Then I got a compression kit. No wonder cable companies use these. Far more reliable and hold up much better.

I'll assume the cabling is in great shape... no pinched or dented areas or severe bends, etc?

I'll also assume everything up at the antenna is properly secured. No water intrusion - current or in the past?

Age of the cable? Old, weathered cable with poor capacitance can be a problem.

How about the center conductor length? What if it could be a bad connection within the tuner, like my old goofy Digital Stream box that would do lightning-quick signal drops to 0 for about a split second or two?

I haven't noticed this drop-out problem with this used
Digital Stream box from eBay so far.
Cables all vary in age, with the coax coming off the antenna dating back to the late 90's, all RG6 double-shielded.

Most connections I have re-done, either with compression or threaded fittings. The main antenna likely has that hex connector, but inside a weather boot. Too high up to replace it, will have to wait until problems become more severe or a new antenna is installed. The one going to the antenna in my avatar was just replaced earlier this month with a compression fitting.

All good points that you mentioned, but as I stated before, I didn't have issues when the Zenith converter box was connected using the same setup, so the problem is likely the tuner in the RCA DTA880. Do you think it's worth taking it back and exchanging it for another one?

Newer is not always better.
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post #35 of 120 Old 08-21-2016, 06:50 PM
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If it's new enough to exchange, give it a try; you might see a difference with another DTA880 (although I doubt it). One of the problems CleCakYngMfd encountered was a bad connection within the STB itself, showing that a defect in the DTA880 is possible. It's probably best to eliminate that possibility while you can.

If exchanging the box doesn't make any difference, you can still buy a $10 attenuator and see if that helps.
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post #36 of 120 Old 08-29-2016, 01:18 PM
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Question Question

Has anyone tried the RCA with clear QAM (i.e., unencrypted cable)?

Boxes of this type have tuners that can receive QAM, but often, the firmware won't find all of the unencrypted channels that a TV would find. I'm wondering if the RCA is any different.
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post #37 of 120 Old 08-30-2016, 10:20 AM
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Update: I think I've solved the breakups on the RCA DTA880.

The problem appears to be caused by Antronix splitters. (Part No. CMC2002H). As mentioned before, the RCA DTA880 is piped though two splitters. (The first splitter branches one cable off to the bedroom and the second feeds both the RCA and my HDTV in the living room). The breakups are not present with a direct connection to the RCA DVR. If one splitter is used (regardless if it's the Antronix), there appears to be no breakups. If two splitters are being used (one or both being Antronix), then certain channels are affected. If different splitters are used in conjunction with an Antronix, then the affected stations vary.

Before I removed the Antronix from my setup, I had it combined with a Philips splitter. These two combined only affected one channel, and if that channel wasn't one that I watched or planned to record shows off of, I would have kept it in place. (Interestingly, the affected station was one of the weaker ones at 75-80%). I switched it out with another Antronix splitter, which removed the breakups from that channel, but shifted the issue to 3 other stations. After replacing the Antronix splitter with a TWC splitter, the breakups from all stations appear to have vanished. The downside is that a few of the weaker stations in my area have degraded or disappeared completely. (All these splitters that I've used are rated at 5-1000 MHz). Perhaps this is enough to prevent the tuner on the RCA from being overloaded? The funny thing is that none of my other TV's or STB's were ever affected by the Antronix's, so the tuner in the RCA DTA880 must be very sensitive to these splitters.

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post #38 of 120 Old 08-30-2016, 02:34 PM
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That reminded me of this page: http://www.antennahacks.com/CombinerComparison.htm. It compares the frequency response of various signal splitters when turned around and used as a combiner. It's reasonable to assume that similar frequency variations occur when used as splitters too.

He didn't happen to have Antronix splitters to include in his tests, but from your observations, it sounds like Antronix splitters have considerable variation with frequency. I'd guess the splitters you've chosen as replacements have a flatter frequency response, but perhaps a bit more overall loss, resulting in your losing the weaker stations.

If you ever need more splitters, you might try the Perfect Vision PV22-233 model recommended at the linked Web page. I use them and they seem to work well. Summit Source has them on eBay for $1 each.
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post #39 of 120 Old 08-30-2016, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
That reminded me of this page: http://www.antennahacks.com/CombinerComparison.htm. It compares the frequency response of various signal splitters when turned around and used as a combiner. It's reasonable to assume that similar frequency variations occur when used as splitters too.

He didn't happen to have Antronix splitters to include in his tests, but from your observations, it sounds like Antronix splitters have considerable variation with frequency. I'd guess the splitters you've chosen as replacements have a flatter frequency response, but perhaps a bit more overall loss, resulting in your losing the weaker stations.

If you ever need more splitters, you might try the Perfect Vision PV22-233 model recommended at the linked Web page. I use them and they seem to work well. Summit Source has them on eBay for $1 each.
I'm guessing that the "cheaper" splitters just have the thin wire wrapped around a ferrite bead where the Antronix has a circuit board with multiple components inside them. Those extra components could be affecting the DVR's reception, especially if the tuner is trying to use the coax as an antenna.

I have a few other splitters laying around, but they are the cheaper 900 MHz ones that degrade the signal more than the 1000 MHz, so I didn't bother trying those with the RCA.

I saw those Perfect Vision splitters and might buy a few of them for that price. Do they have a 3-way so I can omit that extra splitter going to the DVR & my HDTV?


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post #40 of 120 Old 08-30-2016, 03:23 PM
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I took a cheap splitter apart once (don't remember the brand). Looked a little strange to me: basically the input was connected to two insulated wires which were then cross-fed through a ferrite bead to the outputs, making a sort of "X" with the ferrite bead at the crossover point.

If the Antronix splitters are old enough to date back to the analog era, they might have some components to improve their frequency response, but that also introduce unwanted phase shifts that could mess with digital signals. Then again, it could be just stray capacitance inside the box that causes all the issues. You'd have to take one apart to see.

BTW, Summit Source has several 3-way splitters for sale, but I'm not sure if any are Perfect Vision splitters. Here's the page: https://www.summitsource.com/3-Way-RF-Coaxial-C504.aspx

As long as it's reasonably flat, frequency response shouldn't be an issue for OTA (unless you're combining satellite signals or something). The OTA band currently tops out at 698 MHz (channel 51), and is expected to be "repacked" soon to top out at an even lower frequency! So even a 900 MHz splitter should be fine.
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post #41 of 120 Old 09-08-2016, 06:01 PM
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Well the RCA DTA880 is breaking up again, just when I think I've finally got it working correctly.

I'm going see if I can exchange it for another one. Walmart allows returns up to 90 days on electronics, it's been over 30 days since I bought it.

If the replacement doesn't fix the problem, then the next step is to replace my two 2-way splitters with a proper 3 way. After removing my Antronix splitters, I've only had one station occasionally break up. Now the breakups returned on another station.

I also hope that the replacement doesn't make the cable act as an antenna. This is probably the main reason channels break up. (Latest station breaks up with a constant strength of 78-80%, so I doubt that an attenuator will solve my problems.) VHF stations appear to be unaffected.

Newer is not always better.
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post #42 of 120 Old 09-08-2016, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowdog 88 View Post
...


"Cables all vary in age, with the coax coming off the antenna dating back to the late 90's..."
()
Late 90's! That's old. I would expect the higher frequencies not performing as it would when the cable was new.



"The main antenna likely has that hex connector, but inside a weather boot. "

If that hasn't been looked at in years, I suspect more signal loss happening there. Unless that 'weather boot' is 100% airtight, it's been compromised being there all these years.

If your install didn't allow for a 'water loop', and if there's been water getting into that cable, then there's enough water intrusion down 'x' length of the compromised cable. (I've seen it - many feet down the cable. Ugly-looking.)

I remember taking down an antenna setup where I wrapped the connection with Coax Seal. After years of weather exposure, I peeled away the Coax Seal. The connections were shiny-bright as if I installed it that day.


"...So the problem is likely the tuner in the RCA DTA880."

Along with what I said above, yes... this tuner seems to be adding its own problems.


"Do you think it's worth taking it back..."

Yes.


"...Exchanging it for another one?"

If it were me... No.



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post #43 of 120 Old 09-08-2016, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowdog 88 View Post

Well the RCA DTA880 is breaking up again,
just when I think I've finally got it working correctly.

If the replacement doesn't fix the problem, then the next step is
to replace my two 2-way splitters with a proper 3 way.



Adding splitters in an OTA setup has ALWAYS caused me reception problems - mainly at the higher UHF end.

A preAmp and/or line and/or distribution amp is in the mix here, if I may say so.

I would have to look this up again, but if I remember correctly, whenever splitting, each cable 'should' be equal in length.

Is this correct? Would this apply to your setup?



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post #44 of 120 Old 10-05-2016, 10:39 AM
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I bought on of these about a week ago. I connected a 1TB Seagate hard drive. It seems to work OK. When I used a 128GB PNY thumb drive with it, there were "skips" in the recording every 30 seconds or so. Switched to the hard drive it is is much better. I have had it not record a couple times. It may have been user error. Haven't used it long enough to be sure yet.

Does anyone know if you can pass the signal through while it is recording so you can watch another channel with the tv's tuner? I can't seem to find in the menu or on the remote how to do that.
Yes there is an option under the Menu to select Channel-3 or Channel-4 or Bypass. Bypass should do what you want.
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post #45 of 120 Old 10-05-2016, 01:45 PM
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When I used a 128GB PNY thumb drive with it, there were "skips" in the recording every 30 seconds or so.
PNY has several models of their 128GB thumb drive. The "Turbo Attaché" model should be fast enough to work OK, but the plain "Turbo" model may not.

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post #46 of 120 Old 10-05-2016, 02:16 PM
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Users of thumb/flash drives (the subject currently under discussion) should try to get/use a USB 3.0 thumb drive... e.g., a San Disk Extreme with up to 190MB/s write speed.

Even if your recorder is USB 2.0, a USB 3.0 drive will usually work a little faster.

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post #47 of 120 Old 10-05-2016, 02:34 PM
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Strangely, that NewEgg page doesn't list the PNY Turbo Attaché model.

Of the four models listed, the PRO Elite is plenty fast enough, but it's expensive. NewEgg's pages only show read speeds, not write speeds, for the other three models (Turbo, Turbo Elite, and Elite-X), so you'd have to research elsewhere to see which models might work.
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post #48 of 120 Old 10-05-2016, 03:50 PM
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In trying to maintain my help files, it's very hard to find write speeds for flash/thumb drives to the point I almost give up posting them... almost but not quite yet...

This seems to be an excellent comparison that might make the individual research easier???
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post #49 of 120 Old 10-05-2016, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
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Anyone who can afford it should make sure they have or get a USB 3.0 thumb drive... e.g., a San Disk Extreme with up to 190MB/s write speed, or a PNY 128GB Turbo (Attaché 2) USB 3.0 (see this page for many diff. model names and sizes currently available).

Even if your recorder is USB 2.0, a USB 3.0 drive will usually work a litter faster.
Just buy an external 2.5" USB hard drive. (Doesn't matter if it's 2.0 or 3.0). They write much faster than the average USB 2.0 flash drive and are cheaper per gigabyte. (About $50 for 500GB compared to 256GB for a USB flash drive). Plus, external 2.5" hard drives are powered through the USB, so when the DVR turns on or off, so does the hard drive.

I'm currently using an old hard drive with an IDE interface, and I have no problem with HD recordings. Newer drives have the faster SATA interface, but the write speed is bottle-necked by the USB 2.0 bus, which is what these DVRs use.

Newer is not always better.

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post #50 of 120 Old 10-05-2016, 07:30 PM
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I generally agree. I paid $30 for the PNY 128GB thumb drive; for $60 I could get a 1TB hard drive. So the HDD offers 8x as much capacity for only 2x the price. And while mine works, a lot of very similar thumb drives have the "skipping" problem or other issues. HDDs almost never have those kinds of issues.

That said, I understand the convenience, very low power requirement, and small size of a thumb drive appeal to many, so for those determined to go that route, I wanted to help ensure you get a thumb drive that will work.
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Anyone had any issues with the USB hard drive being 'unsupported'? I'd originally formatted the hard drive using the RCA device (bad idea based on what I now read on this thread). I recorded a couple weeks worth of shows successfully and setup seemed to be working fine.

I then disconnected the USB hard drive (MyPassport Ultra 1GB) and simply connected it to my PC, which didn't recognize it. I had planned to transfer the shows to my PC hard drive.

Now when I reconnect it to the RCA DVR, it says that the USB drive isn't supported and doesn't show my recordings. Appears the only option is to reformat and lose all my recordings. Any thoughts?
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post #52 of 120 Old 10-20-2016, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkja35 View Post
Anyone had any issues with the USB hard drive being 'unsupported'? I'd originally formatted the hard drive using the RCA device (bad idea based on what I now read on this thread). I recorded a couple weeks worth of shows successfully and setup seemed to be working fine.

I then disconnected the USB hard drive (MyPassport Ultra 1GB) and simply connected it to my PC, which didn't recognize it. I had planned to transfer the shows to my PC hard drive.

Now when I reconnect it to the RCA DVR, it says that the USB drive isn't supported and doesn't show my recordings. Appears the only option is to reformat and lose all my recordings. Any thoughts?
I'm using an external hard drive with my RCA DTA880. Been using it since July and haven't encountered a "unsupported device" message yet. It's been connected to my computer running Windows 10 several times without any issues.

First, did you try inserting a flash drive for testing purposes just to make sure the DVR is working correctly?

If the DVR fails to detect another USB storage device, try resetting the DVR. You will have to reprogram your channels and scheduled recordings after the reset, but all your recordings will be retained and viewable should the reset resolve the problem.

If the DVR still can't detect the external hard drive, it's possible that the file system got altered in a way that the DVR can no longer recognize it. This likely happened once the drive was connected to your computer and Windows detected that the drive was "dirty" and needed to be checked for errors, or some other program on your computer (like an anti-virus) tried to repair the MBR or other aspects of the file system. Normally this wouldn't result in data loss or corruption with a properly formatted NTFS file system, but because the drive was formatted using the DVR, any repairs likely created more problems*. In that case, you probably should bite the bullet and reformat your external hard drive using your computer. Format it as NTFS and select default allocation size under the allocation unit size drop down menu.

*Formatting your drive as NTFS through the DVR creates a unreadable RAW file system under Windows, so it's possible that the DVR might be creating a corrupt or non-standard NTFS file system that only it can read. Other operating systems maybe able to read from this "corrupt" file system and you might be able to repair and recover it without losing your recordings.

Newer is not always better.

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post #53 of 120 Old 10-21-2016, 09:50 AM
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Formatting a HDD as NTFS on these boxes usually creates a "nearly" standard NTFS partition. The volume label is "1234567890" and the cluster size is 4K. (Why they chose such a small cluster size for video recordings is beyond me, but it seems to work.) The only thing is, the normally-hidden "System Volume Information" pseudo-directory is not created. Windows 7 doesn't seem to have a problem with that, but I don't know if later versions of Windows are as tolerant.

Not sure what would have caused the problems above. Is it possible the DVR was writing to the HDD when it was disconnected? I don't think the NTFS drivers in the DVR's firmware keep the NTFS journal updated, so if a file was being written to, it may have screwed things up.

Before you give up, you might try the freeware PhotoRec to see if it can find remnants of your recordings. The only thing I dislike about PhotoRec is that it gives any recovered files very odd names, so you'll probably have to watch a few minutes of each file to find out what show it is.
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post #54 of 120 Old 10-21-2016, 02:17 PM
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I'm using an external hard drive with my RCA DTA880. Been using it since July and haven't encountered a "unsupported device" message yet. It's been connected to my computer running Windows 10 several times without any issues.

First, did you try inserting a flash drive for testing purposes just to make sure the DVR is working correctly?

If the DVR fails to detect another USB storage device, try resetting the DVR. You will have to reprogram your channels and scheduled recordings after the reset, but all your recordings will be retained and viewable should the reset resolve the problem.

If the DVR still can't detect the external hard drive, it's possible that the file system got altered in a way that the DVR can no longer recognize it. This likely happened once the drive was connected to your computer and Windows detected that the drive was "dirty" and needed to be checked for errors, or some other program on your computer (like an anti-virus) tried to repair the MBR or other aspects of the file system. Normally this wouldn't result in data loss or corruption with a properly formatted NTFS file system, but because the drive was formatted using the DVR, any repairs likely created more problems*. In that case, you probably should bite the bullet and reformat your external hard drive using your computer. Format it as NTFS and select default allocation size under the allocation unit size drop down menu.

*Formatting your drive as NTFS through the DVR creates a unreadable RAW file system under Windows, so it's possible that the DVR might be creating a corrupt or non-standard NTFS file system that only it can read. Other operating systems maybe able to read from this "corrupt" file system and you might be able to repair and recover it without losing your recordings.
Thank you Snowdog and JHB for the replies. The DVR was not writing to the HDD at the time it was disconnected.

I did search for some recovery tools from RAW and did note that they would find the files, but most of them have small limits when using the trial/free version (2GB or less) and the recordings seem to be much bigger than that. It's not worth it to me to pay $50-75 to recover these recordings.

I did try the PhotoRec, but I don't think it searches for the extensions that this DVR saves as (think they're MTS or MT2S or something like that).

So, I'm back to the drawing board and will reformat the disk. Lesson learned.
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post #55 of 120 Old 10-22-2016, 04:06 PM
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Extension is .MTS. It looks like Photorec "knows" about .M2TS but not .MTS

.M2TS is the same format (AVCHD) but these boxes recognize .MTS as their own recordings. If you change the extension to .M2TS, the recordings will show up as "movies" instead of in the PVR menu.

I probably should have mentioned "Recuva" as another option. If it's not too late you can give it a try.

Even if you've reformatted, it's not too late unless you've written new files to the disk.
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post #56 of 120 Old 11-26-2016, 06:41 PM
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Thought that I should post an update about my RCA DTA880.

First up is something that has been mentioned several times in recent reviews for this product: The life of the coin cell battery for the remote control. Yes, the factory supplied coin cell eventually died on me a few weeks ago with an average life of 3 months. At first the remote would not respond after several hours of not being used, which began about a month after I bought it. When I moved the battery tray around while it was still installed, the remote would start to operate again. At first this appeared to be a bad battery connection, so I tried several things to help improve electrical contact. Cleaning the battery and remote contacts with rubbing alcohol seem to help for a few days, but then it started acting up again. I disassembled the remote, bent forward the spring loaded positive contact and sanded down the end to make better contact with the battery. No improvement. I applied a piece of adhesive felt on the battery to keep it from moving around inside the remote, No improvement. I was running out of ideas until one day the remote was completely unresponsive. I used the camera on my laptop to see if the remote was outputting an IR signal, and that's when I noticed that the output was weak. I checked the battery with a multi-meter and got ~2.7 volts, which should have been good enough. Placed an LED on the battery and it's brightness was really dim. Went out and bought a new name brand battery and the remote has been working great since then!

I did a few mods to the DTA880 which involves removing the front fascia and using some matte finish scotch tape. First was to make some defusers for the power/record indicators as it was hard to see the small LED's at any angle. All I did was pull off a few inches of tape and folded it in half, then cut them to size and taped them down inside the fascia in front of the openings. Now I can see the lights much better now, even at night with the lights off. The other mod with the scotch tape involves placing a piece over the IR receiver. Again, peeling off a good amount of tape, folding it half and attaching it to the IR receiver. The result is a much better receiving angle while using the remote, about 40 degrees depending on where I sit. Goodbye to that lousy 10 degree angle!

As for my overload issues on certain stations, I installed a 3rd splitter on the cable going directly to the DVR. This seemed to have removed the breakups completely from all the affected stations for the most part. Once in a while I see a brief line of corrupt artifacts in a recording, but if I rewind the recording and play it back, it doesn't reappear. My guess is that the hard drive couldn't access the recording fast enough for some reason. Not a huge issue, but better then the constant breakups caused by the overload.

DVR time recording has been (mostly) flawless for my recorded shows, including one that airs weekly in the morning hours. I've learned not to turn off the DVR using the power button on the front as this causes the DVR to turn on but not record. Setting the DVR to a station that always has the correct date & time before turning it off is ideal successful recordings, but I also learned to immediately check the time settings when DST takes effect as the DVR will not update itself and will record 1 hour ahead/behind the scheduled program. Another issue with the time recording is the schedule itself. If the PSIP label for a station changes before it's scheduled recording, or if the DVR randomly reprograms a station upon tuning to, any scheduled recordings associated with that station will be deleted. This is annoying issue since I have one station that for no reason likes to randomly change it's label every few months for several hours, wiping out a scheduled recording. The random reprogramming strangely appears to happen on the two PBS stations in my area. The one PBS station did it once (have a scheduled program on that) and the other one does it all the time. (No scheduled programs on that due to iffy reception). Other than that, mostly successful.

The DVR has locked up on me a few times and powered off as I probably tried to do too many things too quickly. This apparently hasn't happen since the battery for the remote was replaced, so maybe a corrupt command was sent?

So after getting the hang of things and working out the bugs and issues, the RCA DTA880 is starting to become a good DVR for the money. Hopefully a firmware update will surface that will address the time record and scheduling bugs.

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post #57 of 120 Old 12-24-2016, 12:35 PM
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I'm running into a problem here with scheduling a program. Not sure if it's a glitch or what.

I want to DVR a program tonight that starts at 10 PM and ends at midnignt. When I enter in 9:59 PM to 12:01 AM, it says that it conflicts with upcoming event #1 , which is 4:29 PM to 5:24 PM. Both these schedules don't come anywhere close to overlapping each other, and the next recording is scheduled for 3:59 AM in the morning.

However. If I set the end time before midnight, (11:59 PM) the DVR accepts the schedule. This will result in missing the last minute of the show which runs right up to the top of the hour. The date/time is correct on the set channel and other channels.

Anyone else experienced this problem?

Here's what my schedule should look like...
01 - 12/24 - 4:29 PM-5:24 PM - Weekly (conflicting event)
02 - 12/24 - 9:59 PM-12:01 AM - Once (event I'm trying to schedule with this end time)
03 - 12/25 - 3:59 AM-5:01 AM - Daily
04 - 12/25 - 7:58 PM-8:32 PM - Weekly

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post #58 of 120 Old 12-24-2016, 12:55 PM
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Yes it's called the "midnight" bug and plagues many of these cheap DVRs. Did you try ending your first event at exactly midnight? if that worked then I guess you could do another separate event from midnight to 12:01am(or 00:01 if you need military time).
It's been a while since I've used my iView(which had a similar problem for events spanning midnight) but I seem to remember whenever I spanned midnight I had to program two separate events......kind of a PIA but par for the course with these very inexpensive devices
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post #59 of 120 Old 12-24-2016, 01:19 PM
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Yes it's called the "midnight" bug and plagues many of these cheap DVRs. Did you try ending your first event at exactly midnight? if that worked then I guess you could do another separate event from midnight to 12:01am(or 00:01 if you need military time).
It's been a while since I've used my iView(which had a similar problem for events spanning midnight) but I seem to remember whenever I spanned midnight I had to program two separate events......kind of a PIA but par for the course with these very inexpensive devices
I do recall reading something about that on one of those iWorks/iView threads. So basically I would have to setup two schedules (first one ending at 11:59 PM and the second starting at 12:00 AM) if a recording runs past midnight? I would still miss a minute at the end anyhow, so setting up another schedule just to record the extra "safe" minute would be pointless. I guess I'll just have to miss the very end of the program.

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post #60 of 120 Old 12-24-2016, 02:08 PM
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.... I guess I'll just have to miss the very end of the program.
I think thats what I ended up doing on my event, Jimmy Kimmel, just missed the last couple minutes. Yes I think I also figured out there was no way to not miss a minute, again kind of a PIA but hey it's one of the reasons I ended up getting another Tivo. My old Tivo only had 2 tuners and often times I'd wanted to be able to record 3 events at the same time, hence the need for my iView. My new Tivo OTA has 4 tuners and while I've never missed an event for a lack of a tuner, 3 is not uncommon and I occasionally see all 4 tuners recording something
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