Official Channel Master Stream+ Owner's Thread - Page 71 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2101 of 2143 Old 08-26-2019, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
The one thing that could matter is reliability
This seems to be something that is regularly overlooked as people seem to be focused on obtaining the cheapest possible DVR storage, without regard as to the suitability of the HDD for use in a DVR. When I attach a HDD to a DVR, I want one made for a DVR and designed to run 24x7 for video. An AV drive like the 2TB WD20EURX WD AV-GP drive ($45) will provide dependable storage. I've had the 3TB versions (not made any more) in my 2 TiVo's for 4 yr running 24x7 without any issues. If one wanted more than 2TB, I would go for the WD Purple deives made for video surveillance systems.

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post #2102 of 2143 Old 08-27-2019, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Kelson View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
The one thing that could matter is reliability
This seems to be something that is regularly overlooked as people seem to be focused on obtaining the cheapest possible DVR storage, without regard as to the suitability of the HDD for use in a DVR. When I attach a HDD to a DVR, I want one made for a DVR and designed to run 24x7 for video. An AV drive like the 2TB WD20EURX WD AV-GP drive ($45) will provide dependable storage. I've had the 3TB versions (not made any more) in my 2 TiVo's for 4 yr running 24x7 without any issues. If one wanted more than 2TB, I would go for the WD Purple deives made for video surveillance systems.
Thanks everyone for your input.
I'm trying to go cheap as possible, s+ is probably just going to be a back up DVR and for sub channels.
So not sure I want to spend $50 for a drive, $30 for an adapter, might as well just get cm's 1tb drive then.

Thoughts on a SSD drive? Worth the little extra now and hope the non moving parts is long lasting?

I only have a 32g SD card, and on last install I think I got it to work as a DVR. Doubt it'll record anything.
As far as drives go, i think the biggest I have not in use is an Xbox (360) 320gb drive. Maybe buy an adapter for it? USB to sata.
Of course I do have a 2tb USB 3 drive, but it's a goflex, apparently the only one s+ can't use! 😞


On another note, I saw the live guide got an update the other day. Seems setting up future recording is easier, as it doesn't come back to 'now' when finished, but I don't see a way of setting up a series recording for something'old' like syndicated.
For example I could scroll to a day or two ahead and set recording for say new shows starting, but couldn't set a repeat timer for say last man standing on a syndicated channel.
????
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post #2103 of 2143 Old 08-27-2019, 11:28 AM
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Cool Reliability

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Thoughts on a SSD drive? Worth the little extra now and hope the non moving parts is long lasting?
I've had an SSD Fail, Partition-Magic couldn't even restore it.

Corsair CSSD-V128GB2-BRKT

Would expect more reliability from suggestions above.
SSD's don't like the repeated write/erase/write demanded by DVR's
although they can better handle a 99% full capacity.

I stocked up on close-out sales of the Samsung 1 TB drives which they had for their TV's.
They were designed for DVR use.

I rely on Titan TV to supplement my Stream+ and DVR+ usage:

https://www.titantv.com/Default.aspx...0-12cbdaf006a8

they even had an ad link at the top to introduce the DVR+ to me long ago.
Art

Last edited by pilotart; 08-27-2019 at 06:00 PM. Reason: add Titan TV link
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post #2104 of 2143 Old 08-27-2019, 05:04 PM
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Ok, again skimmed & searched this thread;

It got a live channels update; seems less clunkly to set recordings from the guide in the future; it doesn't come back to the present after setting up a recording; but now how do I record a 'series' of an 'old' show? Like last man standing on CW. I can push OK, and it sets a record; but no options to set once or series.
I see an update in april was a 'fix' for this; but did the newest release break it again? 7.0-1-3-8 system, live channels 1.21
I just uninstalled live channel updates; went back to 1.17; in the guide; can select a show; it asks once/series>priority>something else then dumps back to live tv; or present guide; something like that.
setting up a current show asks if I want once or series.

DVR; it's only showing like 3-4 shows; but looks like if you go to history I can watch many more; is there a way to have a 'normal' DVR screen show all shows?

Is there a way to search live channels? I found in the AVS forum to go to settings>search>apps; but it won't stay turned on. Again say I'm searching last man standing, I google play store, cast, youtube; but not any recordable shows.

I forgot to test this when I went back to 1.17; I set live tv as searchable; but not getting any guide/shows to come up; just play store, youtube, etc.
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post #2105 of 2143 Old 08-27-2019, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bryanw20 View Post
I'm trying to go cheap as possible, so not sure I want to spend $50 for a drive, $30 for an adapter....

Thoughts on a SSD drive? Worth the little extra now and hope the non moving parts is long lasting?
Well, "SSD" could mean a simple thumb drive, or a SATA-interface SSD intended to replace a 2.5" HDD. But the 2.5" SSDs don't eliminate the need for a dock or enclosure, so I take it you're wondering about thumb drives.

In either case, the cost/GB is considerably more for an SSD than for a HDD. So if the goal is saving money, that leaves us with smaller-capacity thumb drives.

Unfortunately, many thumb drives won't even work! Even a USB 2.0 drive can be read quickly enough, but the write speeds of even USB 3.0 drives are often too slow for recording HD video.

But a few will work, and they are less power-hungry than even a 2.5" HDD, so they'd be worth a try if your Stream+ and USB-powered HDD just can't get along.

I don't have a Stream+ myself, but I do have some experience using thumb drives to record OTA video. I've had good luck with SanDisk Ultra USB 3.0 drives in the 32-128 GB range. But make sure to get the physically larger drives that are actually about the size of your thumb. The tiny "Fit" drives won't work.
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As far as drives go, i think the biggest I have not in use is an Xbox (360) 320gb drive. Maybe buy an adapter for it? USB to sata.
Well, that's what a dock or enclosure is.... But if you already have the HDD, the $30 isn't so bad. (Might be even cheaper if you shop around.) And 320 GB is a decent size for a DVR.
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post #2106 of 2143 Old 08-27-2019, 06:52 PM
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samsung all the way with ssd.
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post #2107 of 2143 Old 08-27-2019, 07:27 PM
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Well I was thinking actual sad drive, not flash/thumb. But yes pricy.

So what about one of these, I don't care about looks, just function.

USB 3.0 SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable for 2.5 Inch SSD & HDD with Support UASP-20cm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDTY299..._wvEzDbSVXWFZ9

Actually looking again, that's only 2.5", this is either, and can provide power.
UGREEN SATA to USB Cable USB 3.0 to Hard Drive Adapter Converter for 2.5 3.5 Inch Hard Drive Disk HDD SATA III and SSD Support UASP with 12V 2A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU..._NDEzDbYBKNWTT


QUOTE=JHBrandt;58481188]
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Originally Posted by bryanw20 View Post
I'm trying to go cheap as possible, so not sure I want to spend $50 for a drive, $30 for an adapter....

Thoughts on a SSD drive? Worth the little extra now and hope the non moving parts is long lasting?
Well, "SSD" could mean a simple thumb drive, or a SATA-interface SSD intended to replace a 2.5" HDD. But the 2.5" SSDs don't eliminate the need for a dock or enclosure, so I take it you're wondering about thumb drives.

In either case, the cost/GB is considerably more for an SSD than for a HDD. So if the goal is saving money, that leaves us with smaller-capacity thumb drives.

Unfortunately, many thumb drives won't even work! Even a USB 2.0 drive can be read quickly enough, but the write speeds of even USB 3.0 drives are often too slow for recording HD video.

But a few will work, and they are less power-hungry than even a 2.5" HDD, so they'd be worth a try if your Stream+ and USB-powered HDD just can't get along.

I don't have a Stream+ myself, but I do have some experience using thumb drives to record OTA video. I've had good luck with SanDisk Ultra USB 3.0 drives in the 32-128 GB range. But make sure to get the physically larger drives that are actually about the size of your thumb. The tiny "Fit" drives won't work.
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Originally Posted by bryanw20 View Post
As far as drives go, i think the biggest I have not in use is an Xbox (360) 320gb drive. Maybe buy an adapter for it? USB to sata.
Well, that's what a dock or enclosure is.... But if you already have the HDD, the $30 isn't so bad. (Might be even cheaper if you shop around.) And 320 GB is a decent size for a DVR.[/QUOTE]

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post #2108 of 2143 Old 08-27-2019, 08:11 PM
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Well I was thinking actual sad drive, not flash/thumb. But yes pricy.
You are not making sense. You state you want to go as cheap as possible then you propose the most expensive storage solution -- SSD -- which is not suitable for DVR usage because of the constant R/W action of a DVR. A 1TB WD-Blue SSD runs $110 vs $50 for a WD20EURX 2TB AV drive.
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post #2109 of 2143 Old 08-28-2019, 04:13 AM
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You are not making sense. You state you want to go as cheap as possible then you propose the most expensive storage solution -- SSD -- which is not suitable for DVR usage because of the constant R/W action of a DVR. A 1TB WD-Blue SSD runs $110 vs $50 for a WD20EURX 2TB AV drive.
Sorry, to me cheap is overall. $100 for a drive that'll last 5+ years due to no moving parts vs $50 for one that lasts 2 years is still 'cheap'/bargain.
But I guess I don't yet get ssd, so maybe it's not a good dvr choice after all.
for now I got a $15 ubs>sata adapter & we'll see what that does.
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post #2110 of 2143 Old 08-28-2019, 10:29 AM
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Sorry, to me cheap is overall. $100 for a drive that'll last 5+ years due to no moving parts vs $50 for one that lasts 2 years is still 'cheap'/bargain.
But I guess I don't yet get ssd, so maybe it's not a good dvr choice after all.
for now I got a $15 ubs>sata adapter & we'll see what that does.
An SSD in a DVR won't last 5yr. An AV drive is made to run R/W operations continuously and will certainly last more than 2 yr. My first post on this noted my 2 3TB AV drives in my TiVo's have been going strong 24x7 for >4 yr now. What is more the 2 original 500GB AV drives that I took out of the TiVo's were put into a 2-bay RAID 1 NAS unit that also runs continuously, using Win-10 Backup to back up the non-video data on all the PC's on my network. Those AV drives are 5yr old and their SMART data says nothing to be worried about.

People will buy what they want, but IMHO the informed choice is an AV drive.
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post #2111 of 2143 Old 08-28-2019, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bryanw20 View Post
Well I was thinking actual sad drive, not flash/thumb. But yes pricey.

So what about one of these, I don't care about looks, just function.

USB 3.0 SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable for 2.5 Inch SSD & HDD with Support UASP-20cm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDTY299..._wvEzDbSVXWFZ9

Actually looking again, that's only 2.5", this is either, and can provide power.
UGREEN SATA to USB Cable USB 3.0 to Hard Drive Adapter Converter for 2.5 3.5 Inch Hard Drive Disk HDD SATA III and SSD Support UASP with 12V 2A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU..._NDEzDbYBKNWTT
I like those cables. They're essentially a dock without the metal! The first one is USB-powered, so the second one is likely your best choice.

As for the drive itself, today's SATA SSDs last much longer than earlier models did, but I think you're grossly exaggerating the relative lifespan of an SSD vs. a HDD. Even cheap HDDs generally last much longer than 2 years, and SSDs have an inherent design problem called "write amplification" that will cause them to record more and more slowly as they fill up. That's particularly likely with the Android OS's encrypted "adopted storage" scheme (which also makes simple backups challenging).
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post #2112 of 2143 Old 08-28-2019, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bryanw20 View Post

Actually looking again, that's only 2.5", this is either, and can provide power.
UGREEN SATA to USB Cable USB 3.0 to Hard Drive Adapter Converter for 2.5 3.5 Inch Hard Drive Disk HDD SATA III and SSD Support UASP with 12V 2A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU..._NDEzDbYBKNWTT
I like those cables. They're essentially a dock without the metal! The first one is USB-powered, so the second one is likely your best choice.

As for the drive itself, today's SATA SSDs last much longer than earlier models did, but I think you're grossly exaggerating the relative lifespan of an SSD vs. a HDD. Even cheap HDDs generally last much longer than 2 years, and SSDs have an inherent design problem called "write amplification" that will cause them to record more and more slowly as they fill up. That's particularly likely with the Android OS's encrypted "adopted storage" scheme (which also makes simple backups challenging).
I ordered the powered one, we'll see how it does.

Now for function, with the newest updates, if I try to record say a syndicated show, I don't get a choice of once/series, it just says recording set.
If I set a new prime time show it asks if I want once or series, but if I pick series it has a pop-up window that says reading programs, and the circle spins for like 10min.
Maybe it's my slow usb2 drive?
I'll find out this weekend.


Is there a way to view all the shows in the DVR at once?
Recent only has 4, click history to scroll through shows by date.

CM support says the search live channels is broken, Google needs to fix.
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post #2113 of 2143 Old 08-28-2019, 05:43 PM
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Ok, again skimmed & searched this thread;

Is there a way to search live channels?
If you need to search live channels you'll have to run Live Channels version 1.19

https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/live-channels-android-tv/live-channels-android-tv-1-19live_channels_20181209-00_rc04-release/

Search in broken in version 1.21. Nick Chalko is working on it, but for now you have to disable auto update to keep Live Channels app from updating to 1.21. You have to manually update your other programs. This is what I do because I need to be able to search live channels.
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post #2114 of 2143 Old 08-30-2019, 04:26 AM
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So I ended up ordering this one; also a usb/optional ac powered adapter; and plugged in the xbox 320G drive (didn't crack the case open to see brand) and plugged in, it formatted for OTA, and so far so good! we'll see how it holds up after a few days of use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

also bought this so I can simulcast the output to my bedroom TV & to the house via modulator (aka the shower TV so we can watch a show at the same time) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to the best of my abilities the TV still gets full HD signal. I think I mave have lost CEC (whatever it's called control tho; but no loss to me)

So what's the difference between live channels 1.17 (original ver on my S+) 1.19 & 1.21?
17/19 seem similar to me; voice search works. trying to set bulk future recordings is a PITA tho, say I scroll to tomorrow or the next day; prime time; pick a new show to record, select series, when it's finished it dumped me back at live tv, no guide up at all. =( have to start all over to get to next show.
Maybe the fix is use titan tv guide to see what on, and then voice/search to add? (I'm a guide surfer to set shows up to record) pain esp with new fall tv getting ready to start.


Before I added the xbox drive I did a factory reset to start fresh; but prior to that I noticed some added apps were disappearing; like mainly Plex & pandora... ??? It's only been 12hrs so far; and the apps are still there for now.
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post #2115 of 2143 Old 08-30-2019, 09:14 PM
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live channels its like a abandoned project, just nick chalko working in this sadly.


also i believe stream + its little buggy i have one and one shield and this one its running better .
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post #2116 of 2143 Old 09-05-2019, 08:21 PM
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So what's the difference between live channels 1.17 (original ver on my S+) 1.19 & 1.21?
17/19 seem similar to me; voice search works. trying to set bulk future.
Search of live channels is working in version 1.22(live_channels_20190721.00_RC02). Guide displays 14 days. CM says that they may not enable chase play.
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post #2117 of 2143 Old 09-06-2019, 06:31 AM
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CM says that they may not enable chase play.
Is that posted on their site somewhere? If it's true it may be a sign that they're working toward ending that product line. It was pretty much doomed from the start with the lack of Prime Video and Netflix.

I like my Stream+, but it's unfortunately one of those good ideas that never got fully baked.
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Is that posted on their site somewhere? If it's true it may be a sign that they're working toward ending that product line. It was pretty much doomed from the start with the lack of Prime Video and Netflix.

I like my Stream+, but it's unfortunately one of those good ideas that never got fully baked.
I didn't get the information from the site. In an email exchange they first said this (chase play) needed a LC update. When I informed them that chase play is working on other boxes they replied that it may not be enabled on CM. They may have been just trying to blow me off. I also like my Stream+ and still hope CM doesn't give up on it.
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On the Reddit support page Nick indicated that chase play on the stream+ would require an update from channel master. Could be an API available in a newer Android version, I suppose. Chase play in live channels does work on the shield.

Seems that programming live channels keeps bumping into the 3gig ram limit. Changing the database view so that program information is hidden until the channel is highlighted opened up some memory to get guide data out past 14 days.

Maybe a device refresh with more RAM and a newer os is needed.

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post #2120 of 2143 Old 09-11-2019, 04:48 PM
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I purchased the Stream+ about a year ago and finally set it up this past weekend... to replace the DVR+, after the DVR+ failed to make a recording again. The Stream+ appears to be missing a nice feature that was available on the DVR+. I could edit and add time to a recording in 5 minute increments, which is important for recording sporting events (football). Am I missing something or is the only option (for extra recording time) to add the next show to the recording ?

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post #2121 of 2143 Old 09-16-2019, 07:01 AM
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I purchased the Stream+ about a year ago and finally set it up this past weekend... to replace the DVR+, after the DVR+ failed to make a recording again. The Stream+ appears to be missing a nice feature that was available on the DVR+. I could edit and add time to a recording in 5 minute increments, which is important for recording sporting events (football). Am I missing something or is the only option (for extra recording time) to add the next show to the recording ?
Currently you can only record using the Live Channels guide -- you cannot pad the record time. Sometimes Live Channels will be updated quickly enough when programs go overtime, but you cannot count on it.

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Thanks Dan... for confirming. I'm not positive, but I think an extra 25 minutes was automatically added to the recording. It was an NFL game (Packers) and the recording ran from 12:00 to 3:25. I believe the guide originally showed 12:00 to 3:00. I will have to pay closer attention next time.

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post #2123 of 2143 Old 10-04-2019, 04:43 PM
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Hi folks,

I know this is a rookie question, but I just purchased a new Samsung smart TV and would like to add the Channel Master Stream+. Since there is no antenna out connection on the Stream+, I thought of using a splitter so I have leed to the TV and its capabilities. The other leed going, of course, to the Stream+.

Has anyone done this and been happy with the reception, or is it unnecessary? It seems a shame not to use the OTA functions of the TV, but maybe it is for the best.

Thanks for your help,
Mark
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post #2124 of 2143 Old 10-04-2019, 06:42 PM
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Hi folks,

I know this is a rookie question, but I just purchased a new Samsung smart TV and would like to add the Channel Master Stream+. Since there is no antenna out connection on the Stream+, I thought of using a splitter so I have leed to the TV and its capabilities. The other leed going, of course, to the Stream+.

Has anyone done this and been happy with the reception, or is it unnecessary? It seems a shame not to use the OTA functions of the TV, but maybe it is for the best.

Thanks for your help,
Mark

It depends on what kind of signal you have from the antenna. Most one in two out passive splitters will drop 6 to 7 DB of signal to each output. If you have enough signal going in to the splitter it will be fine. I run the Stream + , a HD Homerun quatro, the LG OLED and my old Directv tuner from one antenna drop. Using a four way splitter dropped too much signal. I bought a one in 4 out unity gain antenna amp and it if fine now. It is easy and cheap to get a splitter and a couple of short pieces of RG 6 cable to try it.
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post #2125 of 2143 Old 10-04-2019, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ppasteur View Post
It depends on what kind of signal you have from the antenna. Most one in two out passive splitters will drop 6 to 7 DB of signal to each output. If you have enough signal going in to the splitter it will be fine. I run the Stream + , a HD Homerun quatro, the LG OLED and my old Directv tuner from one antenna drop. Using a four way splitter dropped too much signal. I bought a one in 4 out unity gain antenna amp and it if fine now. It is easy and cheap to get a splitter and a couple of short pieces of RG 6 cable to try it.
A two way splitter drops the signal 3.5 dB. Each additional split (3 or 4 way splitter) drops an additional 3,5 dB, or 7 dB total.




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post #2126 of 2143 Old 10-05-2019, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
A two way splitter drops the signal 3.5 dB. Each additional split (3 or 4 way splitter) drops an additional 3,5 dB, or 7 dB total.

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Tis depends on the splitter, Cheaper ones can be more. Then you have the loss from each connector ( I have seen this listed as from -0.5 dB to -2dB per f connector). In truth when I wrote my original note I was looking at the label on the 4 way splitter that I was using. It showed -3.5 for one output and -7.5 for the rest. I do know that putting that device inline hosed everything.
In any case the answer is the same. If you have marginal signal to begin with the splitter can give you problems. Not only with signal levels, but with signal quality. Checking signal from any meters on the device to start can give an idea of headroom, but most of the d level displays on TVs are not that good. I think that the answer does not change. Get a quality splitter and cables and give it a try.

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post #2127 of 2143 Old 10-05-2019, 02:44 PM
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Tis depends on the splitter, Cheaper ones can be more.
Show me one that is more.
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... In truth when I wrote my original note I was looking at the label on the 4 way splitter that I was using. It showed -3.5 for one output and -7.5 for the rest...
Which is what I said:

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A two way splitter drops the signal 3.5 dB. Each additional split (3 or 4 way splitter) drops an additional 3,5 dB, or 7 dB total...]

The drop in signal is a function of the circuitry, which has been the same since it was invented, decades ago.

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post #2128 of 2143 Old 10-06-2019, 11:04 AM
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Unless you use an amp, the laws of physics dictate the loss. 3.5bB is a ~50% power loss. So if you have 100% on the input, you'll get about 50% on each output, same as you would if you put a 2-way split on your garden hose - half the water goes one way, the other half goes the other. A 4-way split means 25% of the original signal on each output (~7dB). Add in the small loss due to the extra impedance through each, you get closer to 7.5. Most 3-way splitters are actually 4-way internally, so you'll see "unbalanced" outputs like one -3.5dB and two -7dB, where 2 of the 4 are combined back into 1.

So numbers like 3 and 7 seem small, but since they're exponential (powers of 10), they're actually quite large. So it's easier to think in terms of water flow in the garden hose analogy. If you ever took a physics class, you'd see that water and electricity are very good analogs of each other and make it a bit easier to comprehend what's going on. Water flow = electrical current, pressure = voltage, pipe size = resistance, etc.

All that said, I've never seen a 2-way splitter with a 6-7dB loss. That's enormous and something you would never really see unless the splitter was made of wood.

Use all the theoretical stuff about losses to get you in the ballpark, then actually hook it up and see how it works. If you get a good strong signal on all your stations to begin with, one 2-way split will probably be fine. But any more than that, and you'll start affecting the picture.

As for the original question about whether it's a good idea to use both the TVs internal tuner AND the Stream+, I find it useful only for aiming purposes because my TV has much better signal strength tools than the Stream+. However, some TVs have terrible signal strength tools.
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post #2129 of 2143 Old 10-06-2019, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mdavej View Post
Unless you use an amp, the laws of physics dictate the loss. 3.5bB is a ~50% power loss. So if you have 100% on the input, you'll get about 50% on each output, same as you would if you put a 2-way split on your garden hose - half the water goes one way, the other half goes the other. A 4-way split means 25% of the original signal on each output (~7dB). Add in the small loss due to the extra impedance through each, you get closer to 7.5. Most 3-way splitters are actually 4-way internally, so you'll see "unbalanced" outputs like one -3.5dB and two -7dB, where 2 of the 4 are combined back into 1.

So numbers like 3 and 7 seem small, but since they're exponential (powers of 10), they're actually quite large. So it's easier to think in terms of water flow in the garden hose analogy. If you ever took a physics class, you'd see that water and electricity are very good analogs of each other and make it a bit easier to comprehend what's going on. Water flow = electrical current, pressure = voltage, pipe size = resistance, etc.

All that said, I've never seen a 2-way splitter with a 6-7dB loss. That's enormous and something you would never really see unless the splitter was made of wood.

Use all the theoretical stuff about losses to get you in the ballpark, then actually hook it up and see how it works. If you get a good strong signal on all your stations to begin with, one 2-way split will probably be fine. But any more than that, and you'll start affecting the picture.

As for the original question about whether it's a good idea to use both the TVs internal tuner AND the Stream+, I find it useful only for aiming purposes because my TV has much better signal strength tools than the Stream+. However, some TVs have terrible signal strength tools.
Explained much better than I did. The DB loss thing is confusing to many people that don't have to deal with this kind of thing regularly. I agree about the 6-7 dB loss on a two way. I screwed up on that.
But as you mention, hooking it up and trying it is the way to go. I have a medium outdoor antenna and split the signal three ways (2 1X2 splitters) It works fine. But I am about 12 miles away "line of sight" from the transmitter sites. There is lots of signal to start with. This really is the determining factor.
To the OP. Get the parts, quality pats, and give it a try.
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post #2130 of 2143 Old 10-06-2019, 06:58 PM
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Unless you use an amp, the laws of physics dictate the loss. 3.5bB is a ~50% power loss. So if you have 100% on the input, you'll get about 50% on each output,.
Do you have a handle on any amplified splitters that support MOCA?

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