Iview Cyber Box - Android 7.1 w/tuner - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 85 Old 01-19-2020, 05:20 PM
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I still haven’t found a way to get 5.1 audio over HDMI from the cyber box.

I tried connecting the cyber box directly to the AVR and do not get surround sound.

The only settings I have found for surround sound are
“Quick settings”
“Surround Sound”
The options are “Auto, Always and never”.
None of the options enable surround sound over HDMI. The AVR indicates it is getting two
channel PCM either directly via HDMI or through the TV via optical.

On my Iview 3500 surround sound works going HDMI to the TV and
optical to the AVR.

Surround sound is recorded and is available using Kodi to play the cyber box recordings on
my Shield TV.


Does surround sound from a broadcast channel require a Dolby license?


The next thing I am going to try is installing Kodi on the cyber box.
I will also try sending email to Iview support about surround sound and
previous channel (return).

Other observations:

The connector on the flash drive I am using for recordings gets very warm. I decided to use
a short USB extension cable between the drive and the cyber box.

The box won’t record unless it is left on.
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post #62 of 85 Old 01-20-2020, 12:28 PM
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I think I saw a setting for this, but I'm at work now and can't remember where it was. I'm pretty sure it was somewhere in the DTV app's menus though.

I do remember the options being something like:

  • PCM
  • SPDIF raw
  • HDMI raw

It defaulted to PCM which I'm pretty sure is stereo only. You probably have to set the output to one of the other two options, depending on which output you want DD5.1 on.

SPDIF refers to the Cyberbox's digital audio jack. If you have optical, I think you need an adapter to convert the SPDIF's electrical output to optical (the adapter is basically just an LED; you may already have one for your 3500).
Quote:
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Does surround sound from a broadcast channel require a Dolby license?
I think decoding any audio from a digital broadcast channel used to require a Dolby license. But I think the patents ran out a year or two ago.

But ironically, you don't want the Cyberbox to decode the audio. You want to pass it through unmodified and let your AVR decode it instead. That's why I think you need one of the "raw" options.
Quote:
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The connector on the flash drive I am using for recordings gets very warm. I decided to use a short USB extension cable between the drive and the cyber box.
That's a good idea. I may do that myself.
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The box won’t record unless it is left on.
Uh-oh; that's not good! It's a small thing but it could be a show-stopper for some. I know of at least one person who uses a Cable Matters HDD dock with his mStar box and relies on the box being off when it's not recording (having the box off lets the dock connect to his home network and act as a media server, so he can watch the shows it's recorded).

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post #63 of 85 Old 01-21-2020, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah -- no 'standby' mode of some kind would be a setback (for me, at least). I know that in standby-mode the Franken-iView isn't really 'off' - but it is a low-power state that at least saves some wear and tear on the portable hard drive connected to it. Speaking of the hard drive - the possible power interruptions for running an external drive would be another show-stopper. Ever since I put the iView firmware on the Mediasonic to solve the double-clutch PSIP problem that erased scheduled timers - the small 320GB hard drive I have hooked up to the box has been rock-solid now for a year or so. With my wife's daily M-F programs, I haven't had a single failed recording or disappearing timer due to double-clutch PSIP problems or not-quick-enough write speed using the small portable drive and the iView firmware. The Mediasonic box still provides steady, dependable power to the drive. Perhaps it's due to the smaller capacity of the portable drive (I found that if you try to go 1TB or up - the delay in spinning up and reading the drive was noticeable and impacted recording start-times, while 200-300 GB drives gave near flash-drive speed responsiveness). Perhaps a smaller drive solves the Leelbox (and by extension, Cyberbox) problems - but it would be another step backwards for me besides having no standby mode to have power that was not dependable for the portable drive and have to go back to flash drives with the spin-of-the-roulette wheel luck needed to insure you have one with a fast-enough write speed.
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post #64 of 85 Old 01-21-2020, 02:19 PM
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One of the amazon reviews (here) for the leelbox Q5 version mentions the failure to record when not turned on. But it is the only review out of 40+ that mentions this.

I've been looking around to see if any of the vendors of this exact box (in terms of the case and hardware, save for the remote) have issued any firmware updates during the history of the box.

All I've been able to find is updates (here) for the vmade v8 plus (which looks identical to the cyber box). While vmade makes a version of the v8 plus with an atsc tuner, the update listed is for the dvb version.

Last edited by Chut Mingy; 02-15-2020 at 06:20 AM.
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post #65 of 85 Old 01-21-2020, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
I think I saw a setting for this, but I'm at work now and can't remember where it was. I'm pretty sure it was somewhere in the DTV app's menus though.

I do remember the options being something like:

  • PCM
  • SPDIF raw
  • HDMI raw

It defaulted to PCM which I'm pretty sure is stereo only. You probably have to set the output to one of the other two options, depending on which output you want DD5.1 on.
Found it (sorry for the delay). It's not where I remembered it.

Exit the DTV app or whatever app you're in, go to "apps," and select the "Droid settings" app. This brings up a "Droid Settings" menu. Select "Sound." Then select "Digital Sounds." This is where you can set SPDIF or HDMI to "RAW" to pass DD5.1 through.

I'm unsure what the other two options under the Sound submenu do.
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post #66 of 85 Old 01-21-2020, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eherberg View Post
Yeah -- no 'standby' mode of some kind would be a setback (for me, at least). I know that in standby-mode the Franken-iView isn't really 'off' - but it is a low-power state that at least saves some wear and tear on the portable hard drive connected to it. Speaking of the hard drive - the possible power interruptions for running an external drive would be another show-stopper. Ever since I put the iView firmware on the Mediasonic to solve the double-clutch PSIP problem that erased scheduled timers - the small 320GB hard drive I have hooked up to the box has been rock-solid now for a year or so. With my wife's daily M-F programs, I haven't had a single failed recording or disappearing timer due to double-clutch PSIP problems or not-quick-enough write speed using the small portable drive and the iView firmware. The Mediasonic box still provides steady, dependable power to the drive. Perhaps it's due to the smaller capacity of the portable drive (I found that if you try to go 1TB or up - the delay in spinning up and reading the drive was noticeable and impacted recording start-times, while 200-300 GB drives gave near flash-drive speed responsiveness). Perhaps a smaller drive solves the Leelbox (and by extension, Cyberbox) problems - but it would be another step backwards for me besides having no standby mode to have power that was not dependable for the portable drive and have to go back to flash drives with the spin-of-the-roulette wheel luck needed to insure you have one with a fast-enough write speed.
Ironically, the Cyberbox seems to have a standby mode; it just doesn't work properly. Half the time when I turn it on from standby, it reboots; the other half of the time, it comes up fine without rebooting. BTW, it always boots to the factory-provided launcher, even if you install a different launcher and change the default launcher in settings.

Despite their clunky firmware, I have a lot of admiration for the mStar boxes. Their standby function works: everything is shut down except a timer, so they only use 1 watt or so in standby mode. But once a recording is about to start, they boot up in only 15-20 seconds, spin up the HDD, and (with the right firmware) start recording pretty reliably.
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post #67 of 85 Old 01-21-2020, 05:52 PM
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There are at least two ways to play back a recording on the cyber box:

1. If the USB button is pressed, and, using the file browser, the file is selected after navigation to the appropriate folder. This, by default, will invoke the movie player app.

2. If the PVR button is pressed (but only while just on a live channel, and not within any other DTV app sub-menu), then a (rename-able) recordings list is presented. If a recording is selected for playback, it is played with what appears to be a modified version (slightly different menus) of the movie player app.

Method 2 shows a little camera icon ("REC") during playback. And I can't make it go away.

Method 1 shows closed captions (using a very small font). And I can't seem to disable them.

Does anyone have a solution?
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post #68 of 85 Old 01-21-2020, 06:59 PM
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5.1 audio works with Kodi

Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
Exit the DTV app or whatever app you're in, go to "apps," and select the "Droid settings" app. This brings up a "Droid Settings" menu. Select "Sound." Then select "Digital Sounds." This is where you can set SPDIF or HDMI to "RAW" to pass DD5.1 through.

I'm unsure what the other two options under the Sound submenu do.

My normal setup is cyber box via HDMI to HDMI switch, HDMI switch to
TV HDMI input and TV optical out to AVR.

I found the droid settings menu and tried all three setting under digital
sound. None of the settings provide 5.1 audio for either live TV or
playback of recordings. 5.1 audio also failed with the cyber box directly
connected to the AVR.

I did very that closed caption works for playback via PVR.

However, 5.1 audio works using Kodi (running on the cyber box) to
play recordings.

I installed the Armv7a (32 bit) version of Kodi using the .apk. I tried the
64 bit version first but it complained of wrong version.

My audio settings for cyber box for Kodi
Quick settings
Surround
Either “Auto” or “Always” gives 5.1 audio (with Kodi). “Never” forces 2 channel audio.
The droid settings don't appear to matter to Kodi

My Kodi audio settings
System
Audio
Number of channels: 5.1
Audio passthrough: Allow Passthrough
However, it appears a Kodi addon is required for closed captions.

The jack on the back of the box labeled coaxial appears to be the same size as the
AV jack. I have never seen either an optical or coax audio cable that uses a plug that would fit.

FYI: The AV jack/cable is the same as used by the Roku express + and my 24 inch Vizio TV.
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post #69 of 85 Old 01-21-2020, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chut Mingy View Post
There are at least two ways to play back a recording on the cyber box:

1. If the USB button is pressed, and, using the file browser, the file is selected after navigation to the appropriate folder. This, by default, will invoke the movie player app.

2. If the PVR button is pressed (but only while just on a live channel, and not within any other DTV app sub-menu), then a (rename-able) recordings list is presented. If a recording is selected for playback, it is played with what appears to be a modified version (slightly different menus) of the movie player app.

Method 2 shows a little camera icon ("REC") during playback. And I can't make it go away.

Method 1 shows closed captions (using a very small font). And I can't seem to disable them.

Does anyone have a solution?
using Kodi for playback gets rid of both the camera and the captions
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post #70 of 85 Old 01-23-2020, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeajea View Post
The jack on the back of the box labeled coaxial appears to be the same size as the AV jack. I have never seen either an optical or coax audio cable that uses a plug that would fit.
Yes; most iView devices use an RCA jack for coaxial audio, but for some reason the Cyberbox uses a 3.5mm jack instead. You need an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-107.../dp/B0069MLDUO

The coaxial and A/V jacks are very close together. It's very difficult to plug a coaxial adapter and the A/V cable in at the same time. But they probably figured you'd only use one or the other.
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post #71 of 85 Old 01-23-2020, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chut Mingy View Post
There are at least two ways to play back a recording on the cyber box:

1. If the USB button is pressed, and, using the file browser, the file is selected after navigation to the appropriate folder. This, by default, will invoke the movie player app.

2. If the PVR button is pressed (but only while just on a live channel, and not within any other DTV app sub-menu), then a (rename-able) recordings list is presented. If a recording is selected for playback, it is played with what appears to be a modified version (slightly different menus) of the movie player app.

Method 2 shows a little camera icon ("REC") during playback. And I can't make it go away.

Method 1 shows closed captions (using a very small font). And I can't seem to disable them.

Does anyone have a solution?
The Gallery app will play videos without closed captions too. If you already have a default app you don't like, launch Settings; go to Apps; select the current default app (e.g., Movie Player); click "Open by default," and click Clear Defaults. Then you can change the default app for videos by selecting a video to play. Android will ask you which app to use. Select the app you want, then select "Always" to make it the new default. Then use method 1 to play videos.
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post #72 of 85 Old 01-27-2020, 10:25 PM
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Noodling around with a file explorer, I noticed several of the CyberBox apps (not the DTV app, but FileBrowser, MoviePlayer, the launcher, even "Droid Settings") were written by some outfit called DroidLogic. While searching for more info, I ran across another DroidLogic app that might be useful. It's called "Media Center" and you can download it here: https://android-apk.org/com.droidlog...c-mediacenter/ (You'll have to go to that page using Chrome or another browser you've installed on your CyberBox, such as Edge. There are two versions; make sure to get the older one. The newer one doesn't start. Or it might be easier to download on your PC, put the app on a thumb drive, plug that into your CyberBox, and install it from there.)

What it appears to do is add DLNA capability to your CyberBox, so you can play content from other DLNA devices on your network or vice versa.

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post #73 of 85 Old 02-03-2020, 06:10 PM
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I've been noticing the CPU in this thing seems to run rather hot (almost 70C). The ventilation holes are all on the bottom, too; none on the top, so without a fan you're not going to get any convection through it. So I'm thinking a small fan would be a wise investment. Any suggestions?
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I have the cyberbox and do not like it...the picture is way too big on the screen...
I had this problem but was able to fix it on the TV end. I'm using a small LG TV, which has a menu option to "label" the HDMI input according to what you plug into it:Blu-Ray, DVD, Set Top Box, etc. Turns out you must label the input "PC" or the TV will enlarge the image slightly, cutting off the edges. That doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but that's what my TV does.
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My guess is that the box does not have L1 widevine, so the resolution is probably limited. Will check this and also if the box is rooted or not.
Probably no on Widevine. The box is rooted though. Just enable developer options by going to the full-screen settings app / About Media Box, scroll down to "Build Number" and click repeatedly until it says you're a "developer." Then Developer Options will appear above About Media Box. Click that, scroll down to Root access, and turn it on.

I'd prefer a safer and "stealthier" root, but this will do for the time being.
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Originally Posted by Chut Mingy View Post
Also plan to check if the irfake module will run on this box, or if the remote control codes can otherwise be altered.
Files remote_key_config.xml and remote.conf in the /etc directory look promising....
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post #74 of 85 Old 02-05-2020, 09:34 PM
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By the way, if you have a spare GB or so on your PC, it's probably worth downloading a copy of the Cyberbox factory firmware from http://www.iviewus.com/download/firm...berBox-OTA.zip.

In case of disaster (or you just really screw things up), you can flash it to the Cyberbox with a special cable (USB A connectors on each end) that I think you can get on Amazon, and Amlogic's USB burning tool at https://sourceforge.net/projects/tvb...0.zip/download. Edit: Just looked at the file more closely and you don't flash it with the AmLogic USB Burning Tool. You put it on a USB drive and flash it with the CyberBox's "recovery." Details are a bit complicated so I won't go into them here. It's still worth having a copy on hand though.
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post #75 of 85 Old 02-07-2020, 10:32 PM
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By sheer coincidence, while trying to find a learning remote control sold at Wal-Mart, I came across this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Wireless-...ndow/635814080

It's the Cyberbox remote! Some of the button labels are different, and I don't know if the IR commands match up, but it's supposed to be a learning remote, so maybe it can be taught to work. If not, you may have to transplant the remote.conf file from a box it does work with.

BTW, am I the only one amused to see the word "Wireless" used to describe a remote control? Duh - I sure hope so!
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I've been noticing the CPU in this thing seems to run rather hot (almost 70C). The ventilation holes are all on the bottom, too; none on the top, so without a fan you're not going to get any convection through it. So I'm thinking a small fan would be a wise investment.
I'm trying out this fan: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070ZHY6G

The fan's in the middle of a little table you sit your Cyberbox (or whatever device) on. Two of the legs are long and two are short, so it sits sloped a bit. For the Cyber box I oriented it so the front of the Cyberbox is sloped up (makes it easier to aim the remote when in IR mode. For a tablet you'd probably have the front sloped down for easier touchscreen use). The CPU is still quite hot but at least there's a bit of breathing room (it's around 60C now vs. 70C).

Forgot to mention: the fan is USB powered, so I needed a way to plug it, my flash drive, and my remote control dongle, all in at the same time. But the Cyberbox only has two USB ports. So I left the remote dongle in port 1 and plugged this hub into port 2: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FFT8Z6. Then I plugged my flash drive and the fan into two of the hub ports. That seems to get the job done.

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I'd prefer a safer and "stealthier" root, but this will do for the time being.
Now experimenting with Magisk (a contraction of Magic Mask). It allows you to grant root permissions on an app-by-app basis vs. being "all or nothing" as with the Cyberbox's stock root. You can also grant root access to an app for a limited time, so you don't have to remember to disable root after you've done whatever it is that required root in the first place. It also has a "Magisk Hide" function to mask (hence the name) the existence of root from particularly paranoid apps, such as Spotify.

The only problem I've noticed with Magisk so far is that the Cyberbox often freezes for a few seconds when an app requests root access. Often when this happens, I'll get an "app is not responding" dialog and have to tell Android to "wait." But so far Magisk hasn't seemed to interfere with normal apps.

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I decided to install Spectrum TV. Their app installs and runs fine, but refuses to play anything: I get a curt message from Spectrum that "This app is not supported on this device. Please try another device."

The problem may be the lack of Widevine support that Chut Mingy mentioned.
Made a little progress on this.... Turns out the Cyberbox has Widevine L3 at least, so if you hide root from the Spectrum app with Magisk and turn off "USB debugging" in Developer Options, the Spectrum app runs! No nasty message. But it's still not usable on the Cyberbox ATM. I started it and it brought up the first channel (C-Span) and started playing. But then I was stuck. The only control that worked was closed captions. I couldn't change channels or watch anything but C-Span, I couldn't adjust the volume - I couldn't even exit! The only way out was with the Home button or one of the shortcut buttons that launch the web browser, GMail, etc.

Edit: Figured out a way to work with the Spectrum app. You have to move the mouse pointer to the left edge, click, and drag the mouse rightward. This "pulls out" the Spectrum menu. From there you can go to the Guide, My Library, On Demand, etc. Once you get off the live video screen, the exit key finally works.

So it's a bit awkward, but I can live with it, I guess....

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post #76 of 85 Old 02-08-2020, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
By sheer coincidence, while trying to find a learning remote control sold at Wal-Mart, I came across this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Wireless-...ndow/635814080

It's the Cyberbox remote! Some of the button labels are different, and I don't know if the IR commands match up, but it's supposed to be a learning remote, so maybe it can be taught to work. If not, you may have to transplant the remote.conf file from a box it does work with.

BTW, am I the only one amused to see the word "Wireless" used to describe a remote control? Duh - I sure hope so!
They're $7 on eBay, just search for MX3 remote. No need to put wireless in

I just bought one to see if it'll work with my Android TV. Includes a USB dongle...for $7 what the heck!
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post #77 of 85 Old 02-08-2020, 04:02 PM
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I gave up on the Cyberbox's built-in Movie Player, and installed MX Player from the Play Store to use as my go-to video player. Of course there are plenty of alternatives, including Kodi, but if you're just looking for an improved video player for your OTA recordings, MX Player is pretty good.

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post #78 of 85 Old 02-10-2020, 09:33 PM
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As mentioned in a prior forum post (here), the circuit board of the cyber box has a space for a tf (micro sd) card socket.

I have installed the tf socket. The circuit board layout is configured for a tf card socket of the type like amazon B07KY7X33M or equivalent. I'm using a Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO (MB-ME128GA/AM), also obtained from amazon (B06XWZWYVP).

Installation of the socket requires some delicate soldering. I also moved the wi-fi antenna slightly to make room for a slot for the card. See the photos below.

So far, the sd card works no worse than a usb flash drive.
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post #79 of 85 Old 02-11-2020, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JHBrandt View Post
In case of disaster (or you just really screw things up), you can flash [the firmware] to the Cyberbox with a special cable (USB A connectors on each end) that I think you can get on Amazon, and Amlogic's USB burning tool at https://sourceforge.net/projects/tvb...0.zip/download. Edit: Just looked at the file more closely and you don't flash it with the AmLogic USB Burning Tool. You put it on a USB drive and flash it with the CyberBox's "recovery." Details are a bit complicated so I won't go into them here. It's still worth having a copy on hand though.
What are the complicated details for disaster recovery to which you refer?

By 'disaster" I mean an unbootable box, perhaps one that will load no further than the bootloader but none of the OS.

Boxes like these often employ some type of micro switch that is accessed through a hole somewhere on the case and is used in the recovery process.

The cyber box has a switch (6SW2) behind the coaxial SPDIF jack (see first photo in the prior post here) which could be a "reset" switch. There is a space on the circuit board for a second micro switch (2SW1), which is not installed, near the front of the box.

Edit:
I installed the missing switch (2SW1). It does activate recovery mode. If "Apply update from EXT" is selected, both the sdcard and usb are listed. I believe that the zip firmware package as provided by iview can be installed using this method.

I also installed a connector for the uart connections and confirmed that uart mode works. The tx/rx connection points on the circuit board had a lot of sloppy solder and flux residue (as if done by hand) from the factory, so the uart is probably how the box is loaded with software in the first instance at the factory,

I couldn't get the other switch (6SW2, behind the spdif jack) to do anything.
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Last edited by Chut Mingy; 02-15-2020 at 10:41 PM.
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post #80 of 85 Old 02-11-2020, 11:01 PM
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I like what you did with the micro SD socket. Now if you can add that reset switch, your Cyberbox should be pretty brick-proof.

My understanding is, you can put a disk image file named recovery.img on a micro SD card, put it in the slot, and hold the reset switch while applying power, and the bootloader will boot the recovery.img. So, as long as the bootloader's OK, you could screw up pretty much everything else and still boot the box.

The importance of that makes me wonder why iView left both those parts off. I imagine it was to save money, but the 50 cents they save per box will probably be outweighed by bricked returns.

Lacking both the micro SD socket and switch, I decided to take a chance, and flashed a custom recovery directly onto my Cyberbox. The file I chose is at https://sourceforge.net/projects/tvb...y.img/download and luckily for me, it works. I use TWRP recovery on an old cell phone so I knew I'd be pretty comfortable with it if it worked.

But how do you flash over the default recovery in the first place? Luckily, the same Web page also has the AMLogic Recovery Flasher app: https://sourceforge.net/projects/tvb...T.apk/download. Download that and install it onto your Cyberbox, enable root access in developer options, and you can flash TWRP directly onto your Cyberbox.

I needed one more thing: an easy way to boot into recovery. I downloaded an app from the Play Store called ProBoot. But it's hard to find: search for "Wireless ADB" and look for the app by "Pzy64."

The very next thing I did, of course, was to boot into the TWRP recovery I'd just installed, and make a full backup of my Cyberbox onto my USB thumb drive. I did run into one bug right away: that version of TWRP won't work if you try to compress your backup files. I had to toggle that option off to make the backup. But now, as long as I can boot into recovery, I can restore that backup and be back in business.
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As for Chrome, I finally "solved" it by enabling developer options, enabling root access in developer options, moving the Chrome folder from /system/app to /sdcard (in case of disaster), rebooting so Android would realize Chrome was gone, then installing it as a brand-new user app. Now I'm finally on Chrome 79
During the past few weeks, you've added a lot of cool details to the post from which the above quote is taken.

Due to my years-long aversion to android, and my sticking with non-android media players (and windows phone) for so long, I have a sizable learning curve to hurdle in order to get up to speed on the basic workings of android and mobile android. Which seems odd since I've used linux for a decade.

I'd like to install Chrome 79 on the cyber box. Would it be too much trouble to make a numerated, all-inclusive list of steps that a five-year-old would understand?
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post #82 of 85 Old 02-12-2020, 01:33 PM
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I decided to take a chance, and flashed a custom recovery directly onto my Cyberbox. The file I chose is at https://sourceforge.net/projects/tvb...y.img/download and luckily for me, it works.
It doesn't matter that this recovery image is for 5X instead of 5D?
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post #83 of 85 Old 02-12-2020, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chut Mingy View Post
During the past few weeks, you've added a lot of cool details to the post from which the above quote is taken.

Due to my years-long aversion to android, and my sticking with non-android media players (and windows phone) for so long, I have a sizable learning curve to hurdle in order to get up to speed on the basic workings of android and mobile android. Which seems odd since I've used linux for a decade.

I'd like to install Chrome 79 on the cyber box. Would it be too much trouble to make a numerated, all-inclusive list of steps that a five-year-old would understand?
I feel your pain. Android is based on a Linux kernel, and it's open-source like Linux, so you'd think it would be easy to transition from Linux to Android. But it was also designed so manufacturers could "lock it down" to prevent users from messing up their devices (and not incidentally, to prevent them from removing Google's spyware easily). So it's been a pretty steep learning curve.
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It doesn't matter that this recovery image is for 5X instead of 5D?
Apparently not. As far as I could tell the differences between these chips (S905X, S905D, and S912) don't require different recovery code.

It appears the S905D is very similar to the S905X. Biggest difference seems to be the S905D's TS input, which (I assume) is what the ATSC/QAM tuner and demod are connected to. So the X is used in OTT-only boxes and the D is used in boxes with tuners.

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post #84 of 85 Old 02-12-2020, 08:37 PM
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How to remove Chrome 66 from the Cyberbox

First, make sure you have root access enabled. From the home screen, go to Apps, scroll down to Settings, and open it. In Settings, the next-to-last option should be Developer Options. If it isn't there, select the last option, About Media Box, then scroll down to the last item at the bottom, Build Number, and click it repeatedly until it says "You are now a developer." Then press Exit, and Developer Options should be visible. Now click on Developer Options, scroll down to Root Access (it's just above the "Debugging" heading). If it's off, click it to turn it on.

While you're in Settings, you also need to scroll to the Personal section, click on Security, scroll down to Device Administration, and make sure Unknown Sources is turned on, so you can "side-load" apps from sources other than the Play Store.

The next thing you need is a file manager that can access the filesystem's root. The CyberBox comes with FileBrowser, but that only accesses the Cyberbox's internal and external (USB) storage areas. So I used a file manager called MiX (short for Mix of eXplorers): https://forum.xda-developers.com/att...7&d=1580815875. You can browse to this AVSForum post with Chrome 66 (the same Chrome 66 you want to remove) and click on that link. It should download MiX and offer to install it. Go ahead and install and open it.

MiX is a bit counter-intuitive until you get used to it, and it's easiest to use with a mouse, so if your CyberBox remote isn't in mouse mode, click "TV" to switch to mouse mode. Now use the mouse to click the "hamburger" (three stacked horizontal lines) at the top left of the MiXplorer menu. Then click Root (it should be the third or fourth item in the menu that drops down).

Chrome is in the /system/app directory, so scroll down to the "system" folder. Don't click the icon; click the name. (If you accidentally click the icon it will select the folder; just press Exit to deselect it.) Then click on "app" too. Now you'll see subfolders for all your "system" (non-removable) apps, including Chrome. (There's also a "ChromeCustomizations," but I don't know what that is, so I just left it alone.) We're going to make a backup copy of the Chrome folder, then delete it.

Select the Chrome folder by either clicking its icon, or clicking the name but holding the OK button down for a few seconds. The icons at the top right will change. The second one, which looks like two overlapping windows, is the "copy" icon. Click it and MiX will respond "Added to the task list." Now press Exit on the remote until you get back to root; then press exit twice more. This should bring you back to Internal Storage.

If you wish, at this point you can click the "hamburger" again and select your USB drive, instead of Internal Storage, as the place to save your copy. But either way, click the Paste icon (it looks like a clipboard). MiX will ask for confirmation by saying Copy #1 not started. Click that and it will copy your folder. Now you can navigate back to Root / system / app, select Chrome again, and click the trash can to delete it, and confirm you really want to delete it. Finally, reboot the CyberBox by holding down the power button until the menu comes up and selecting Restart. Once it reboots, Chrome 66 should be gone, so you can install the latest version from the Play Store. (But if anything goes wrong, you can bail out by copying the Chrome folder back to /system/app.)

Q: Why didn't we just "cut" the Chrome folder, rather than copying it and then deleting it? A: The folders are in different partitions (like different drive letters on Windows) and MiX will only cut & paste within a single partition, so we had to do it the hard way.
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post #85 of 85 Old 02-15-2020, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
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They're $7 on eBay, just search for MX3 remote. No need to put wireless in

I just bought one to see if it'll work with my Android TV. Includes a USB dongle...for $7 what the heck!
I was playing with my Cyberbox today when suddenly, the air mouse went dead.

It appeared the box had locked up, so I pulled power for a minute and plugged it back in. It rebooted to the launcher, then started the DTV app as usual, but I couldn't control it.

That's when I noticed the red/green LED on the remote wasn't lighting up when I pressed buttons. I checked the batteries; sure enough, both were pretty much dead.

And these were brand-new Duracell alkaline batteries that came with the box! I've been using this for a little over a month. Apparently this remote eats batteries pretty fast, at least if you use the RF mode (which is necessary for the keyboard and air mouse). And when they go, there's no "low battery" warning: one minute it's fine, the next it's totally dead.

I'll try Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries and see if I can get an extra week or two of use out of them.
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