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post #9031 of 10472 Old 02-20-2011, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by KirklandMike View Post
It's taken close to a month, to get some time, new antenna, and good weather. But I finally made progress.

I tried the HBU33 with no amplifier. It was no better than the old antenna, and for some stations worse. I looked at all the wiring I could, with a signal tracer to make sure it was where I thought. Very complicated, with original wiring, wiring done by a low voltage guy (some home run but others direct) and some wiring I'd added. I ended up moving the mast to the other side of the roof to make the line of sight better, then re-aimed and played with AB testing. After trying with and without the amplifier I went back to the amplifier and the old antenna and everything is now pretty good, except for one odd thing.

Channels 5.1 and 16.1 are both on Queen Anne I believe, as is 4.1. 4.1 is fine, but the other two vary from 100% to 0. I'm pointed closer to Capital Hill because Queen Anne is directly behind the biggest close tree. But why would some stations on Queen Anne have the variance, while others are OK? And, although the signal strength is lower, the 28.1 signal comes in well without the in and out. The mast is pretty much directly in line with Capital hill for me. 7.1 is fine too - from the side I guess.

Am I overloading the tuners? That doesn't make total sense to me as 4,5,16 are similar power. But I suppose it's possible. I have several wires to the roof from my wiring cabinet where the 2 Leviton 6-way splitters are located (one not being use), so I guess I could experiment more. Could I use a splitter on the roof with one output going to the amplifier and one direct? Perhaps I need a smaller antenna, but I do like being able to pull in 28.1 (KBTC in Tacoma).

Thanks
Mike
KirklandMike
I doubt you're overloading from what you describe. Most likely it's the trees and/or the antenna. Either could be giving you grief on certain channels only. The varying 100% to zero can be caused by the signal being broken up by trees, or the antenna is just not working well for those particular channels Don't look at the "strength", it ain't. Think signal quality after it try's to tune in. You could get the same exact results with 5lbs, 50lbs or 500lbs of signal.
Did you try the HBU33 with the amplifier, and what brand amplifier?
Dan
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post #9032 of 10472 Old 02-20-2011, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Wayne02 View Post
Ok thanks. I had a chance to check the channels on the digital/HD today. I will check the 4 older tvs this week. The HD tv has the second longest cable run and has the oldest cable.

I'm still trying to figure out the channel scheme with the different numbers and channel names. I did finally delete 17 channels which I'm not interested in and that cleans things up a bit.

Here are the results from the HD tv with the antenna in the original aiming position (through a gap in the trees in a general south direction)

13-1 kcpq 6 of 10 bars

13-2 kcpq-sd weather 6 bars

22-2 Q13 Fox 10 bars

4-1 komo-dt 10

4-2 komo-sd This 10

5-1 king-dt 10

5-2 king-sd 10

7-1 kiro-dt 10

7-2 kiro-sd 10

9-1 kcts-hd 10

9-3 kcts9 create 10

11-1 kstw-hd 10

16-1 kong-hd 10

16-2 kong-sd 10

22-1 kzjo 10

22-3 Antenna 10

28-1 kbtc-hd 1

I watched the 500 today on 13-1 kcpq (6 bars) and 22-2 Q13 fox (10 bars) and couldn't tell any difference between the two, picture quality wise. Do these two channels always broadcast the same programming?

The channels that specifically say, 'HD' are the only channels that are broadcasting in HD, or are some of the channels labeled DT also broadcasting in HD?
Wayne02
Ch13-1 is an HD channel, and ch22-2 is the same program, but down converted to SD. There's just not enough room in the ch22 signal for both to be in HD, because ch22 also has a third sub channel, 22-3. It's possible that the 500 program was in Standard Definition, which would account for the similarity.
DT just means it's a Digital Transmission, which all the main stations are doing now. Not sure if your TV shows it, but some will display the resolution when the Display button is pressed or the channels change and there's a brief info banner. Usually says 480i, 720p, 1080i. HD is 720 or 1080, the 480 is SD. This is what the particular channel is sending, but sometimes a program is in SD. The picture will look a little softer, as it's being converted to run on the HD channel.
And of course, as in any sporting event, resolution decreases somewhat as the empties increase....
Dan
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post #9033 of 10472 Old 02-21-2011, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DanKurts View Post

Wayne02
And of course, as in any sporting event, resolution decreases somewhat as the empties increase....
Dan

I totally agree... burp...
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post #9034 of 10472 Old 02-21-2011, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by DanKurts View Post

And of course, as in any sporting event, resolution decreases somewhat as the empties increase....
Dan

Great observation, Dan. Why is it that the homes with the most empties are the ones with the biggest HD screens?

Will the last subscriber leaving Dish Network please turn off the satellite.
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post #9035 of 10472 Old 02-21-2011, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rdvegas View Post

Great observation, Dan. Why is it that the homes with the most empties are the ones with the biggest HD screens?

You need to rephrase your comment slightly..."That's why the homes with the most empties are the ones with the biggest HD screens."
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post #9036 of 10472 Old 02-21-2011, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DanKurts View Post

KirklandMike
I doubt you're overloading from what you describe. Most likely it's the trees and/or the antenna. Either could be giving you grief on certain channels only. The varying 100% to zero can be caused by the signal being broken up by trees, or the antenna is just not working well for those particular channels Don't look at the "strength", it ain't. Think signal quality after it try's to tune in. You could get the same exact results with 5lbs, 50lbs or 500lbs of signal.
Did you try the HBU33 with the amplifier, and what brand amplifier?
Dan

Darn,
I got myself convinced that overloading made sense, especially after I moved the antennae across the roof to where the trees aren't as much in the way - until I point too far north. In the process I removed some cable and adapters.

I did try the HBU33 with the amplifier. The amp is Electroline DropAmp EDA 2400, with 4 outputs, +7dB.

Without a signal quality meter, all I have to go on is the signal strength and what the TV does. The TV that's causing the most trouble now is the newest small kitchen TV - a GPX. It doesn't have a signal strength indicator as far as I can tell. And it doesn't seem to like channel 16.1 at all - but it used to. I understand that the TV needs to rescan after a change, but is there a reason why it wouldn't scan a channel that it found previously? If it doesn't find it in a scan, you can't tune to it


Mike
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post #9037 of 10472 Old 02-21-2011, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirklandMike View Post

Darn,
I got myself convinced that overloading made sense, especially after I moved the antennae across the roof to where the trees aren't as much in the way - until I point too far north. In the process I removed some cable and adapters.

I did try the HBU33 with the amplifier. The amp is Electroline DropAmp EDA 2400, with 4 outputs, +7dB.

Without a signal quality meter, all I have to go on is the signal strength and what the TV does. The TV that's causing the most trouble now is the newest small kitchen TV. It doesn't have a signal strength indicator as far as I can tell. And it doesn't seem to like channel 16.1 at all - but it used to.

Mike

KirklandMike
I guess I didn't explain it correctly. You do NOT have a signal strength indicator. What you see on the TV's may SAY strength, but it is not true, real strength.
Moreover, strength is NOT the only thing you have to have to make all this work. A stable, level, clean signal is required. You can not see that with out a proper meter. You could have plenty of real strength signal, but if it's chopped up, you'll get nothing, or breakup.
At this stage, since you're having good luck with most sets, it's time to troubleshoot the kitchen TV. Take that and move it to whichever location is getting the best signal. If it works fine, then you may have a slightly damaged cable going to the kitchen, or a bad port on your splitter. If you swap ports on the splitter, and everything stays the same, it's time to run a new cable. You can damage the cable by simply crushing it slightly, or bending it too sharply. Even if you straighten it back out and it looks okay, it's now permanently tweaked inside, and can give you a single channel dead spot.
Let us know what happens after testing.
Dan
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post #9038 of 10472 Old 02-22-2011, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanKurts View Post

KirklandMike
I guess I didn't explain it correctly. You do NOT have a signal strength indicator. What you see on the TV's may SAY strength, but it is not true, real strength.
Moreover, strength is NOT the only thing you have to have to make all this work. A stable, level, clean signal is required. You can not see that with out a proper meter. You could have plenty of real strength signal, but if it's chopped up, you'll get nothing, or breakup.
At this stage, since you're having good luck with most sets, it's time to troubleshoot the kitchen TV. Take that and move it to whichever location is getting the best signal. If it works fine, then you may have a slightly damaged cable going to the kitchen, or a bad port on your splitter. If you swap ports on the splitter, and everything stays the same, it's time to run a new cable. You can damage the cable by simply crushing it slightly, or bending it too sharply. Even if you straighten it back out and it looks okay, it's now permanently tweaked inside, and can give you a single channel dead spot.
Let us know what happens after testing.
Dan

Thanks Dan. So what's the thing on the TV? Does it give a reading somewhere into the circuitry - not just close to the cable?
The kitchen TV is the worst, and I can believe there's a problem with the cable. Unfortunately the connector is too close to the stand. I've tried to avoid switching it at the TV end, but I need to get a right angle adapter tomorrow. The next smallest TV has some problems with 5.1 and 16.1 too, but is able to scan 16.1 - just has drop outs. Not too sure about the other TVs. I'll keep testing.
Mike
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post #9039 of 10472 Old 02-22-2011, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by KirklandMike View Post

Thanks Dan. So what's the thing on the TV? Does it give a reading somewhere into the circuitry - not just close to the cable?
The kitchen TV is the worst, and I can believe there's a problem with the cable. Unfortunately the connector is too close to the stand. I've tried to avoid switching it at the TV end, but I need to get a right angle adapter tomorrow. The next smallest TV has some problems with 5.1 and 16.1 too, but is able to scan 16.1 - just has drop outs. Not too sure about the other TVs. I'll keep testing.
Mike

I thought this reply was sent yesterday. Never mind. I'm reading some of your other comments about the way the meters work, and that makes sense.

I added the right angle adapter to the smallest TV, and now it scanned ch 16. So you are right on the bending. It still doesn't work consistently, but it is better. I also picked up an FM trap from RatShack just for grins. Not much difference on that TV. But it seemed worth trying after I re-read my notes from a couple of years ago setting up everything in the cabinet with the best TV - where there is an amplifier to drive a few things. It worked better with the switchable FM trap in. Oddly, it doesn't seem to make any difference to the FM receiver, nor to the HD Radio. The old analog TiVo was the other thing, and its a brick now. I wish it would work without a subscription - the ChannelMaster is pricey and I don't have time to build MythTV

I'll be re-aiming and checking following your instructions - hopefully it will be warmer sometime over the next few days.

Thanks
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post #9040 of 10472 Old 02-27-2011, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by KirklandMike View Post


I'll be re-aiming and checking following your instructions - hopefully it will be warmer sometime over the next few days.

Spent a bunch of time re-aiming, re-scanning (perhaps unnecessary) and checking channels on several TVs. The best results are from pointing directly at the Queen Anne antennas. Channel 4 is generally better more stable than 5 and 16, but 4 isn't 100% guaranteed. 9 isn't very direction sensitive. 28 is a little more sensitive, but even with lower readings on the TVs (I know, I know), the picture seems OK. 33 (from the side) is somewhat sensitive, but generally OK because it's closer.

I'd like to remove a branch that could cause problems in higher winds, but couldn't do it yesterday. I was able to throw a rope/chain saw over the branch, but it was so far away that it was hard to get the saw flipped so the cutting edge is down. Not sure if that was all of the problem, but in any case I broke the saw. I'd like to try tree spikes or a long pole saw but they don't seem to be available to rent.

--Mike
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post #9041 of 10472 Old 02-27-2011, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DanKurts View Post

Wayne02
Ch13-1 is an HD channel, and ch22-2 is the same program, but down converted to SD. There's just not enough room in the ch22 signal for both to be in HD, because ch22 also has a third sub channel, 22-3. It's possible that the 500 program was in Standard Definition, which would account for the similarity.
Dan

So 13-1 hd channel shows 6 bars, and the 22-2 shows 10 bars. This consistent across all 5 tv's (1 HD, 4 w/ converters). Are these two channels being broadcast from the same location?
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post #9042 of 10472 Old 02-27-2011, 10:33 AM
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Ok now I have the four old tv's w/ converter boxes programed and operational. All tv's have the same channel lists and the four old tv's are using the same universal remote, so they should all operate the same. Trained the family on how to use them. The dog slow response time on the converter box/old tv's takes much getting used to.

Having used the tv's for the last week or so it looks to me like channels 13-1 kcpq and 22-2 Q13 fox Always have the same programing? And same for kong sd and kong hd? Is this true, those channels always have the same programming? If so I'm going delete one of the duplicates and trim the channel line-up even more.

Channel 9-2 V-me is a foreign speaking channel that I locked-out on all 5 tv's a week ago, and this morning it shows up again on one of the converter/old tv's. How come that kind of thing happens, is it unusual?

As I've read through this thread there have been suggestions to, 're-scan' every once in awhile to see if any more channels might come in. Are the OTA broadcasting stations and channel line-ups really that dynamic that they change frequently? I ask because reprogramming all 5 of the tv's with standardized channel lists is a bit of a pain.
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post #9043 of 10472 Old 02-27-2011, 10:56 AM
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Wayne,

You are receiving 13.1 in HD from their main transmitter in the Bremerton area and 22.2 is rebroadcast (copy) in SD from Capitol Hill.

Before you delete one of them, consider this: I use K26IC-D, a Bremerton area translator to receive KIRO Channel 7 (39) but during the past Thanksgiving snowfall their repeater lost power for a week. I simply switched to a different antenna pointed at their main tower, so we didn't lose KIRO at all. In a worst case scenerio, I can switch to their Vashon repeater as well. Its nice to have alternatives.

KONG 16.1 is HD and 16.2 is SD. I wish they would offer different programming on the dot 2 channel.

Jim
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post #9044 of 10472 Old 02-27-2011, 11:02 AM
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When I installed the antenna and ran the coax I decided to run a ground wire along the same route because where the coax comes out of the garage to the outside splitter happens to be right over the main ground rod for the house. I'm just going to connect the ground wire to that rod.

I have not hooked either end up yet because there is still snow on the roof/ground.

For ground connection to the antenna should I be using this type of coax grounding block.
http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master...SAFV77ZN1SAHYS
(this particular block says it works with rg59, says nothing about rg6)

or HD has a clamp that looks to clamp on the mast and accept the ground wire? Or I could just wrap the ground wire underneath one of the 1/4-20 nuts on the clamps which hold the antenna to the mast?

I'm hoping I don't have to use that coax grounding block at the antenna because I already wrapped and waterproofed the coax connection to the antenna.

Is it necessary to use one of these coax grounding blocks? If so could I install it on the main feed coax just before the 6 way splitter on the outside of the house then just run a short ground wire from the coax grounding block to the main ground rod. In this scenario I would end up with a ground wire that ran from the antenna mast to the main ground rod And the coax would be grounded at the main ground rod as well.

Of course in the old days I'd just wrap the ground wire under one of the nuts on the antenna to mast clamp and clamp the other end to the ground rod. I'm probably over complicating this as I usually do.
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post #9045 of 10472 Old 02-27-2011, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne02 View Post
Channel 9-2 V-me is a foreign speaking channel that I locked-out on all 5 tv's a week ago, and this morning it shows up again on one of the converter/old tv's. How come that kind of thing happens, is it unusual?
I never understand why people lock out a channel. Hispanic channels have some of the best music and variety shows on television, even if you don't speak the lanuguage. I've watched several very good movies and programs on religious channels, as well.

If a channel gets locked out, how will you know if they have something watchable?

Will the last subscriber leaving Dish Network please turn off the satellite.
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post #9046 of 10472 Old 02-27-2011, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne02 View Post

When I installed the antenna and ran the coax I decided to run a ground wire along the same route because where the coax comes out of the garage to the outside splitter happens to be right over the main ground rod for the house. I'm just going to connect the ground wire to that rod.

I have not hooked either end up yet because there is still snow on the roof/ground.

For ground connection to the antenna should I be using this type of coax grounding block.
http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master...SAFV77ZN1SAHYS
(this particular block says it works with rg59, says nothing about rg6)

or HD has a clamp that looks to clamp on the mast and accept the ground wire? Or I could just wrap the ground wire underneath one of the 1/4-20 nuts on the clamps which hold the antenna to the mast?

I'm hoping I don't have to use that coax grounding block at the antenna because I already wrapped and waterproofed the coax connection to the antenna.

Is it necessary to use one of these coax grounding blocks? If so could I install it on the main feed coax just before the 6 way splitter on the outside of the house then just run a short ground wire from the coax grounding block to the main ground rod. In this scenario I would end up with a ground wire that ran from the antenna mast to the main ground rod And the coax would be grounded at the main ground rod as well.

Of course in the old days I'd just wrap the ground wire under one of the nuts on the antenna to mast clamp and clamp the other end to the ground rod. I'm probably over complicating this as I usually do.

Wayne02
Yes, that's a good grounding block, works for RG59 or RG6.
Grounding the clamps at the antenna is fine. Where you want to put the ground block on the cable is before the first place it enters the house. As I recall, you ran it inside to an amp, then back out to the splitters. If you ever take a hit from lightning, it's going to follow the cable inside the house. The main idea is to bleed off any static and put the antenna, and its receiving elements (where the cable is hooked to) at a ground potential. In other words, lightning will be looking for things higher, like trees or metal objects, and your antenna will "look" like it's on the ground by the electrical grounding rod. And be sure to attach both ground wires, antenna and cable, to the same ground connection block or clamp on the ground rod.
Sounds like you're making good progress. Gold star on your forehead for tenacity!!
Also, there aren't that many new channels coming along. When someone like ch22 adds a third sub channel, like ch22-3, you don't need to do a rescan. As long as you get the carrier and main sub channel, ch22-1, the other subs will be there. Check back here from time to time. I'm sure someone will make note of the new channels, and you can then check out the info to see if it's something you would even want.
I have many customers that have a hard time just figuring out where their remote is, and would call me in flash to rescan their sets if there was some new channel they wanted. Haven't heard anything since the analog channels stopped last year. You're probably safe from rescan nightmares!
Dan
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post #9047 of 10472 Old 02-28-2011, 10:43 PM
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Didn't realize there is a local thread.

I am living in Redmond Town center.. Zip 98052, facing the bear creek pkway (South)
I used to have the RCA flat indoor antenna which just isnt cutting it. So I decided to try http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3611256
That managed to get the ABC channel better but I was hoping for a few more channels.. :/

Anyone knows how?
Right now I can get
KOMO(4) KIRO(7) ION(33) plus some other channels I dont care about
I only really care about KOMO and KIRO, plus I am hoping to get
KING(5) KONG(16) and CW(11)

Anyone can recommend me which other indoor antenna I should try?
I thought with teh radioshack antenna, I have the rabbit ears to try to get CW, how should I point the V-shaped rabbit ear to get it?

Thanks!
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post #9048 of 10472 Old 03-15-2011, 09:08 PM
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Gord, at http://nwbroadcasters.com posted this 03/10/11

The FCC has granted a construction permit to KOMO-TV Seattle to increase power from 810 kW directional to 1000 kW non-directional with a HAAT increase from 223 to 259 meters.
----------------
Since KOMO has already rebuilt their tower and installed their new top antenna, why do they need a CP or is that also required to raise ERP?

I think this is terrific, because receiving KOMO dependibly here is problematic and a little more power may resolve my shadowed situation. Thanks in advance,

Jim

* PS to the administrator: please adjust the Forum clock for Daylight Savings Time!

* PPS It turned out my computer was missing a patch that would have told it the day Daylight time began had been changed.
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post #9049 of 10472 Old 03-15-2011, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Seattle View Post

Gord, at http://nwbroadcasters.com posted this 03/10/11

The FCC has granted a construction permit to KOMO-TV Seattle to increase power from 810 kW directional to 1000 kW non-directional with a HAAT increase from 223 to 259 meters.
----------------
Since KOMO has already rebuilt their tower and installed their new top antenna, why do they need a CP or is that also required to raise ERP?

As I said on another forum, this permit was not the increase from 810 kW DA. They are already operating at 880 kW ND as per another construction permit, this only allows them to boost power up to 1000 kW ND.

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* PS to the administrator: please adjust the Forum clock for Daylight Savings Time!

The forum clock is correct as far as I can tell; my time updated without a hitch. Check your settings in the User CP.

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post #9050 of 10472 Old 03-18-2011, 03:05 PM
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As I said on another forum, this permit was not the increase from 810 kW DA. They are already operating at 880 kW ND as per another construction permit, this only allows them to boost power up to 1000 kW ND.
I don't know why they would bother except, maybe, to protect the license. 810kw works out to +89dbm. 880kw isn't enough to increase my rounding dbm calculator at all and it remains at +89dbm. 1000kw gets you to +90dbm. It's only going to be a 1 to 2 db increase. If that's enough signal to push you over the edge you need to seriously reconsider what you are doing.
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post #9051 of 10472 Old 03-18-2011, 03:38 PM
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880 is 89.44 dBm, so it's only a little over 1/2 dB increase. I agree it doesn't make much sense and hope they didn't have to spend much to achieve that.

Bob
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post #9052 of 10472 Old 03-18-2011, 03:41 PM
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When I worked at WDBJ, we found that increasing power from 460 kW to 675 kW actually did make a difference for some people buried back in the mountains who were only seeing a clean signal for part of the day.

More importantly, it made people who hadn't had luck the first time try again. "Yep, we boosted power, give it another try." They may have been able to receive it the first time but given up too soon. That group usually won't try again until something is supposed to have changed at the other end.

And hey, tschall, not to go too off-topic, but I never heard back from you after my last message a few weeks ago. All okay?

- Trip

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Comments are my own and not that of the FCC (my employer) or anyone else.

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post #9053 of 10472 Old 03-18-2011, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tschall View Post

It's only going to be a 1 to 2 db increase. If that's enough signal to push you over the edge you need to seriously reconsider what you are doing.

--------------
OK, I'm game. If you recall, I'm stuck under the QA Hill West side retaining wall and I am completely shadowed from KOMO (and KING). Using my home brew cut-to-38 11 bar Yagi providing around 12.75 dbd gain on a 30 foot telescopic mast I have almost dependable reception. My intention was to build a longer Yagi and it may still be necessary, even with the ERP increase. Please suggest how I should seriously reconsider what I am doing.



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post #9054 of 10472 Old 03-19-2011, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim in Seattle View Post

--------------
OK, I'm game. If you recall, I'm stuck under the QA Hill West side retaining wall and I am completely shadowed from KOMO (and KING). Using my home brew cut-to-38 11 bar Yagi providing around 12.75 dbd gain on a 30 foot telescopic mast I have almost dependable reception. My intention was to build a longer Yagi and it may still be necessary, even with the ERP increase. Please suggest how I should seriously reconsider what I am doing.



Jim

Remember its a construction permit. It won't happen overnight. Research and you'll find KING & KIRO are also authorized a megawatt ERP. I'm told that the 880-kW was the most KOMO could go to without Canadian approval. I guess they got that approval. All US stations this close to the Canadian border require permission from Canada if radiation above treaty agreed upon levels change upward crossing the border. A megawatt is the maximum allowed for US stations in the UHF band. As Trip points out, the outer coverage areas are most affected by the digital cliff effect. I'm sure all the major Seattle stations will eventually go to their maximum allowable level as they fight for eyeballs. Still, its not something that's done in a day.
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post #9055 of 10472 Old 03-20-2011, 10:41 AM
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For the Spanish speaking viewers lurking here, Gord posted this on the NW Broadcasters Website:

03/17/11

The FCC has granted an application by Fisher Broadcasting to change the transmitter location of Seattle market KUNS-TV from 47-30-17 121-58-4 to 47-37-55 122-21-9 (KOMO-TV tower). ERP will increase from 240 kW to 1000 kW and HAAT will decrease from 719 to 244 meters.
---------------------------
We currently receive KUNS and we never watch it, but this change should get them at least some coverage in the Marysville/Mt Vernon farming communities. Probably a very smart move.

Jim
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post #9056 of 10472 Old 03-21-2011, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Seattle View Post

For the Spanish speaking viewers lurking here, Gord posted this on the NW Broadcasters Website:

03/17/11

The FCC has granted an application by Fisher Broadcasting to change the transmitter location of Seattle market KUNS-TV from 47-30-17 121-58-4 to 47-37-55 122-21-9 (KOMO-TV tower). ERP will increase from 240 kW to 1000 kW and HAAT will decrease from 719 to 244 meters.
---------------------------
We currently receive KUNS and we never watch it, but this change should get them at least some coverage in the Marysville/Mt Vernon farming communities. Probably a very smart move.

Jim

My quick look at the FCC coverage maps the other day indicated that they would be losing coverage in this move, especially in the Marysville/Mt. Vernon area. Perhaps somebody else can QC my look at the maps and see if I'm right or wrong on this. I suspect part of this move is to reduce operating costs for KUNS (no more tower rent out there on Tiger) and to allow KUNS to actually carry the Univision programming in HD when available. It's probably much easier to microwave a signal up the hill than to send it from Fisher Plaza out to Tiger.

Val
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post #9057 of 10472 Old 03-21-2011, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myron View Post

Remember its a construction permit. It won't happen overnight. Research and you'll find KING & KIRO are also authorized a megawatt ERP. I'm told that the 880-kW was the most KOMO could go to without Canadian approval. I guess they got that approval. All US stations this close to the Canadian border require permission from Canada if radiation above treaty agreed upon levels change upward crossing the border. A megawatt is the maximum allowed for US stations in the UHF band. As Trip points out, the outer coverage areas are most affected by the digital cliff effect. I'm sure all the major Seattle stations will eventually go to their maximum allowable level as they fight for eyeballs. Still, its not something that's done in a day.

The KOMO transmitter has already been upgraded to handle the 1000 kw ERP. As soon a notifications have been made to area medical facilities about the power increase it is just a matter of pushing on the "Power Up' button.

While you would think that less than a dB power increase is minor, it made a big difference at my old station and marginal reception sites (like my house).
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post #9058 of 10472 Old 03-23-2011, 07:54 AM
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Is anybody in here in the Bellingham area?
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post #9059 of 10472 Old 03-23-2011, 06:04 PM
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Anacortes, but that's not Bellingham.

Art Shotwell
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post #9060 of 10472 Old 03-25-2011, 12:25 PM
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Seeking advices from all the experts on this forum.

I live in 98012 (North Bothell) have a Winegard SquareShooter SS-2000 amplified directional antenna mounted on the rooftop.

I can pick up many channels with following results:

Channel / Signal Strength, Current / Signal Strength, Peak / Remarks
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
4.1 / 75 - 81 / 81 - "Very good" with minor interruptions
5.1 / 68 - 80 / 80 - Inconsistent - Signals not steady, frequent interruptions, break-ups
7.1 / 75 - 80 / 90 - "Good" with some interruptions
9.1 / 69 / 69 - Excellent. Signal is steady like a rock
11.1 / 92 / 93 - Excellent
13.1 / 87 / 87 - Excellent
16.1 / 92 / 99 - Excellent
20.1 / 82 / 82 - Excellent
22.1 / 80 / 80 - Excellent
33.1 / 79 / 79 - Excellent

I don't understand why I am having so much trouble with Ch 5.1. Any suggestions will be very much appreciated.

Thank you.
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