Originally Posted by Archaea
...What a fantastic finish on the speakers and subs!!! Such that I’m looking into trying that with my Epique CBT24 line array speaker system that I’ve been dragging my feet on. What router bit did you use to make that work?
Maybe this is more rambling info than what you were looking for, but here goes...
I used 2 trim routers to make it work. One router had a flush trim bit, the other had a bevel bit. (I think 7 degree bevel?) After the router, I used a file to just lightly knock down any sharpness on the laminate edge. You could definitely cut yourself on that laminate if you're not careful.
First I measured and cut all the laminate with a box cutter and straight edge so all pieces were roughly 1-2" too big.
Then I set up a straight-edge jig and used the flush trim bit to get one straight cut on all pieces that would be lined up with the baffle. I had to do this cut first (before putting it in place) since I used a round-over on the baffles.
Next, I used contact cement to adhere the laminate. I used 3-4" wide parchment paper strips between the laminate and box while I was lining up the laminate. (So I could get the laminate straight with the back edge of the baffle) Then once I had it lined up, I pulled one piece of parchment out and pressed where the parchment was removed. Then the piece was stuck and you can pull out the rest of the parchment strips. If you won't have a roundover on the baffle and have the laminate go all the way to the front edge - then it won't be as big a deal to get the piece lined up straight. Just know that once the contact cement touches, that piece is going to stay right where it is.
So once I had a laminate piece adhered, I used the router with the flush trim bit to cut it to size. I did all 5 sides (everything other than the baffle) - so I started with the bottom, then back, then sides, then top - just to hide the seams as much as I could. Why the bottoms, you ask? Practice.
I used the router with the bevel bit on all the edges after the flush trim bit. You'll want to keep this bit in a separate router because the depth of this bit is everything. Too shallow and you won't cut anything, too deep and you'll end up cutting into the piece the bearing is running along. This bit is needed because the flush trim bit leaves just a slight overhang... You wouldn't be able to measure it without a calipers, but you can feel it. Then use the file to knock the sharpness off.
In thinking back, I remember I put down some masking tape over the laminate wherever the router base was sliding. The laminate dust would scratch the laminate face if you dragged the router base over it. So by using tape, the router base never actually touched the laminate.
Then I used a gloss black paint pen to color any seams or edges that were visible.
Hopefully this all makes sense. If not, just ask.