2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 556 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16651 of 16682 Old 08-03-2019, 08:22 AM
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I bought a 61" January of 09. It was a 2008 so I got a decent sale price for it. It lasted 10 years of heavy use. It started failing about three years ago with the HDMI ports dyeing one by one until I got down to using component cables with an HDMI converter. The white dots started to show up and then the final nail in the coffin was the failure of the blue LED driver. I replaced it with a 75"-F1 VIZIO. I am happy with the color, size and brightness of the VIZIO over the old Sammy, but the Sammy handled motion better. I hope I get another 10 year out of the VIZIO (I think) but I doubt it.
I would like to thank everyone who participated in this thread I learned a lot over the years its been fun.
Peace
Mark

Last edited by leadmic; 08-03-2019 at 03:19 PM.
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post #16652 of 16682 Old 08-04-2019, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agentrnge View Post
Larry,
Sorry, someone beat you to the DMD in a PM, but I can send the LEDs and Fans. A medium flat rate box should do it. That is listed as $14.35 from USPS. Dunno if there is tax on top of that. Should be able to get them on the way to you Saturday. PM me your address and we can work out details.

Dan
Dan: I sent money via paypal to the address you supplied some days ago. I haven't heard if you got it or not.
Larry
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post #16653 of 16682 Old 08-05-2019, 07:45 AM
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Thank you Larry. Yes I did. Also just responded to PM.

Everyone else, the carcass has been picked clean. Shell will head to the dump soon.
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post #16654 of 16682 Old 08-12-2019, 05:18 PM
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Just joined tonight 8/12/19 can anyone help with this. I have 2008 HL50650C replaced many parts over the years. Now I have the on/off problem. Checked power board all caps look fine, ordered another board and installed same problem. Powers up great picture and sound then powers off and on every 30 seconds or so. I do not have any blinking lights on power up green light. Can buy a main power board BP96-02054A at reasonable price anyone had any experience similar to my problem. Thanks, Mark
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post #16655 of 16682 Old 08-13-2019, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
... I have 2008 HL50650C
This thread is about the LED versions of Samsung DLP sets, and the "650" in your model number suggests to me that you have a model with a color wheel. Is that right?

For starters, I'm not familiar with the design of the color wheel version, but it does, indeed, sound like a power supply problem. Since there is no LED sub-SMPS, I'm supposing there's only one power board. Since you've replaced that already, I can't think of what might be the next likely culprit.

Do you have test equipment (voltmeter or scope) that you can monitor the various SMPS output voltages while the on/off cycling is occurring, to see if the voltages actually "go away", or dip down to a low value, or have a huge amount of ripple. This might suggest that something else is loading down the SMPS. Or something is causing the main processor to reset cyclically.

Don't think I can be more helpful than that, for now.
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post #16656 of 16682 Old 08-25-2019, 05:32 PM
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Haven't been here in a while. TV has been great with no real problems till now. When watching the TV the screen will go black but the sound stays on. Then it shuts down and restarts. It will do this a couple times an hour. Starting to research the problem but just curious if new parts are still available?
Thanks
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post #16657 of 16682 Old 08-25-2019, 09:12 PM
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... just curious if new parts are still available?
New parts? No, new parts are not available 10 years on. But there are a number of places that sell used parts. Don't know if member "Stanman" is still around the site, but he has a huge stash of used boards and parts.
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post #16658 of 16682 Old 08-26-2019, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuervoacres View Post
Haven't been here in a while. TV has been great with no real problems till now. When watching the TV the screen will go black but the sound stays on. Then it shuts down and restarts. It will do this a couple times an hour. Starting to research the problem but just curious if new parts are still available?
Thanks
I have seen that happen once in a while, not as frequently as yours. I don't know what causes it. It has been doing it for quite a while but once in a few days. So, I haven't taken it seriously. Other than that everything is good after I changed the DLP chip.
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post #16659 of 16682 Old 10-03-2019, 01:18 PM
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It looks like my TV finally quit. It was perfect day before yesterday. But, yesterday it never came on. The green led just flashes continuously. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. Otherwise, I will consider that it has served me well. I wanted it to last until the next CES before I made my decision on the next TV. I am guessing it is a power supply issue but not sure. No red lights or messages.
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post #16660 of 16682 Old 10-04-2019, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanman2242 View Post
It is NEVER the main power supply, unless the TV does nothing at all.
All of the SUB power boards are going bad and it is very often not as simple as replacing the caps.
I have anything you need, either PM me or look up my eBay stuff or gmail me.
Hey Stanman,
My TV just started to do the green light(only green) blinking continuously. You have a lot of experience in this area? Any suggestions as to what might be the problem. I am ready to buy a new TV but would like to get 4-6 months if possible to see what is coming in CES 2020 and then decide. Thanks
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post #16661 of 16682 Old 10-04-2019, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vishwa Somayaji View Post
Hey Stanman,
My TV just started to do the green light(only green) blinking continuously. You have a lot of experience in this area? Any suggestions as to what might be the problem. I am ready to buy a new TV but would like to get 4-6 months if possible to see what is coming in CES 2020 and then decide. Thanks
I'll offer a guess that its
#1 : the LED sub-SMPS, BP96-01726B, (which requires a high voltage supply from

#2 the main-SMPS), or maybe

#3 the LED driver module, BP94-02327A.

So those are the 3 most likely problem areas. You could get more info by testing the voltages on those modules.
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post #16662 of 16682 Old 10-04-2019, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I'll offer a guess that its
#1 : the LED sub-SMPS, BP96-01726B, (which requires a high voltage supply from

#2 the main-SMPS), or maybe

#3 the LED driver module, BP94-02327A.

So those are the 3 most likely problem areas. You could get more info by testing the voltages on those modules.
Thank you. As it happens, I opened the bottom and right away I saw three of the four 2200uF-25V capacitors bulging. So, tomorrow I will get the parts and put them and then see. Since this was very obvious, I will proceed with the steps you mentioned after replacing those(all 4) capacitors. I have a good feeling that it will come back. I will update it here if it does.
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post #16663 of 16682 Old 10-05-2019, 01:17 PM
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Hi @cosmicvoid , Just an update. Replacing those 4 capacitors didn't help. Now I have to decide whether I should spend more or cut my losses. Thanks for the suggestions.
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post #16664 of 16682 Old 10-05-2019, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vishwa Somayaji View Post
Hi @cosmicvoid , Just an update. Replacing those 4 capacitors didn't help. Now I have to decide whether I should spend more or cut my losses. Thanks for the suggestions.
Like Stanman says: its often more than just the capacitors.

But ebay has an assortment of these modules for sale at less than $60. I guess since this set is at end-of-life, people who have spare parts are wanting to sell them while they can, and module prices have dropped a lot recently.

Be advised that this sub-SMPS supply gets a 250~350 volt input from the main-SMPS. I have a spare set that I got cheap because non-functional. The actual fix was the two HV capacitors on the main-SMPS, which wasn't providing the HV to the sub. That's why I suggested measuring voltages.
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post #16665 of 16682 Old 10-05-2019, 08:00 PM
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Thank you @cosmicvoid . I decided that it is the end of line for this TV. Not going to spend any more time or money. Made a deal for a 75" Samsung Q80R.
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post #16666 of 16682 Old 10-08-2019, 12:06 AM
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Question Help! I'm seeing pink

I have a HL61A750 with 1006.1 firmware that I purchased in Aug 2008. Until now, only real problem I've had in the last 11 years is that I had to replace the DMD three years ago.

The problem I'm having now is that there is a pink tint to the screen. It's most noticeable with whites, which are a very whitish-pink for example. I had this problem once last year when it was about 85F in the house. The screen started flickering pink. I shut the TV off until the house had cooled down, turned it back on and all was fine, until now. Now, a year later, a similar problem has manifested itself. Instead of flickering pink, whites are a very noticeable pink. I've included a picture of the screen showing an SMPTE test pattern taken with my phone. I realize this probably isn't incredibly helpful, especially as it is compressed, but I thought I'd include it anyway as it shows that my green LED isn't out, as I had first suspected. Red, green, and blue are all there, if a little off, but you can see the white is pink.

I've verified that it happens across all sources attached to my TV, both from my receiver and direct-attached; so it's definitely the TV and not a cable or source issue.

Anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be? I'd really like to fix this TV instead of throwing it away as until now I've been very happy with it.
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post #16667 of 16682 Old 10-08-2019, 08:46 PM
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Your SMPTE color bar pic looks predominantly magenta, not pink. The "green" bar in the middle does not look normal. I'm guessing the green LED is weak or dead, or the green channel of the LED driver module has a problem.

Have you been into the Service Mode menu? Try going into Service Mode; start with the TV off.

Then press MUTE - 1 - 8 - 2 - POWER (5 keys, no dashes).

While you are in service mode, DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING.

In the service menu, scroll to the 2nd item called "DDP3021" and press right arrow >> key.
In the DDP3021 menu scroll down to the Test Pattern item and press right arrow >> key.

Then press right or left arrow keys to cycle through the test screens. You should get checkerboard and grid patterns and full screens of each color: red, green, blue, white, black, cyan, magenta, yellow, white, black, etc, etc.

Notice whether all the colors show up (I don't remember the exact color and pattern sequence).
In the grid and checkerboard patterns, they should be WHITE. If they are not white, then tell what color they are.

When you are done testing turn the set OFF to exit service mode.
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post #16668 of 16682 Old 10-09-2019, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post

Notice whether all the colors show up (I don't remember the exact color and pattern sequence).
In the grid and checkerboard patterns, they should be WHITE. If they are not white, then tell what color they are.

Thank you very much for your reply.

I did as you suggested, and went into the factory menu and ran through the test screens. I made a video of it:


I used my son's phone as mine wouldn't focus on the screen for some reason. As you'd expect, the video isn't a perfect representation of what I saw, but perhaps it is helpful. The light magenta that is displayed in place of white is far more saturated in the video than it is on the TV. Instead of a light magenta as it appears on the TV, it looks full-on magenta in the video.

So, instead of white my TV is displaying a light magenta. This is apparent in the checkerboard test and what is probably the white test (I wish they'd label the tests). However, the green test screen looked green to me. So now I'm confused. R+G+B= white, and R+B=magenta. Since I'm getting magenta instead of white one would think my green LED is bad, but the green test screen looks green. Again, I'm confused.

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post #16669 of 16682 Old 10-09-2019, 07:44 PM
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Are HL61 and HL67A750 internal electrical/electronic parts the same?


I found a HL67A750 (with a replaced DMD) locally for $295. My setup is too small for an HL67, plus I don't want to lose the picture quality/pixel density. However, my HL61 is malfunctioning and I'm going to need to buy parts. My thinking is to buy the HL67 for spare parts as I have no interest in buying a new TV and would like to keep mine for the foreseeable future. I'd start by swapping out my light engine and keep it for its usable parts. Then I'd strip the HL67 of its remaining electrical/electronic parts and store them away.

If I swap the light engine, is there any adjustment that will need to be made because of the different screen dimensions, etc?
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post #16670 of 16682 Old 10-09-2019, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LazLong View Post
Are HL61 and HL67A750 internal electrical/electronic parts the same?
Yes, the modules are all the same. I believe the optical parts are not the same, so wholesale swapping the light engine would have screen size problems.

In looking at your video clip, the green full screen is surprising, but I didn't see any yellow or cyan or magenta full screens. BTW, just a coincidence, my HL67A750's DMD has gotten dotty after 11 years, so I had mine open today to replace the chip. First work its needed in years; replaced 2 LEDs some years ago.

Anyway, seeing the strange green behavior in your set makes me think it is NOT a light engine problem, per se. Seems like a either a sub-SMPS power issue or a LED driver issue. The current drive to the LEDs seems to be folding back when multiple LEDs are energized, but not when a single LED is on. This could be due to the sub-SMPS voltage sagging under load. Or maybe the LED driver has overheated and some of the inductors have melted their solder and fallen off (it has happened to some people on this forum).

Do you have a voltmeter? The first thing I'd check when showing your SMPTE color bar screen is the voltages on the sub-SMPS. The blue/brown wire pair should have about 250-350 volts between the two wires (isolated from ground). The output of the module should be a steady 16 volts from the multiple gray wires to ground. If those check out OK, then I'd try swapping the LED driver module, which is behind the light engine tunnel. Two screws at the bottom of the light engine tray removed will let you slide the tray to the rear. Be careful that nothing falls onto the lens at the left of the engine.

If you need more detail instructions, let me know. The modules are pretty cheap now on ebay, typically less than $50.

Last edited by cosmicvoid; 10-10-2019 at 01:27 PM.
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post #16671 of 16682 Old 10-14-2019, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
Yes, the modules are all the same. I believe the optical parts are not the same, so wholesale swapping the light engine would have screen size problems.
So, I went ahead and bought the used HL67A750 for $295. First I swapped the sub-power board as mine have 2 bulging caps and two leaking caps, but I was still getting the magenta tint. So, I decided to just swap the light engines. I aligned and focused the picture best I could using the internal test screens. I think the optics might be the same as when using a test screen file it showed the same 2.5% overscan that my original light engine showed. However, for some reason the overscan when connected to my HTPC seems to be worse. I can barely see a bit of the Start Menu. :-( I tried messing with the settings in the nvidia control panel, but wasn't able to correct it. I'll just have to live with it I guess.

Since the light engine swap fixed it (as it had to, if it wasn't the sub-power board), I guess it was the LED driver board.

I found a service manual for the HL61/HL67A750. It lists two part numbers for light engines. In the HL61 part list it has BP91-02113A A750(61,67 Inch), Gen 2.3 LED, and in the HL67's part list it has BP91-02113B A750(67 Inch), Gen 2.3 LED. I forgot to check which part the HL67 came with before I installed it.

In any case, I now have some spares for my TV.

It really, REALLY took a great deal of discipline not to just go out and buy an LG OLED65C9PUA. It taunts me every time I go to Costco....

Thank you for your help and suggestions.

Last edited by LazLong; 10-14-2019 at 03:48 AM.
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post #16672 of 16682 Old 10-14-2019, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LazLong View Post
... However, for some reason the overscan when connected to my HTPC seems to be worse. I can barely see a bit of the Start Menu. :-( I tried messing with the settings in the nvidia control panel, but wasn't able to correct it. I'll just have to live with it I guess.

Since the light engine swap fixed it (as it had to, if it wasn't the sub-power board), I guess it was the LED driver board.
A couple of ideas for you: when you swap the light engine, you have a different DMD board now, and the stored settings probably dont match the main board, and may not be optimal for the smaller screen size. I would have taken the step of copying the original DMD board settings to the main board, then swapping the engine, then restore settings from main to the "new" DMD board.

This is done in the service menu; scroll down to item 24 "SERVICE" (between CHECKSUM and DEFECT LOG) and enter the SERVICE sub menu. There, items 4 and 5 allow you to send the settings between the main and DMD boards.

Other idea is to keep the original engine and just swap the LED driver module.
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post #16673 of 16682 Old 10-14-2019, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
A couple of ideas for you: when you swap the light engine, you have a different DMD board now, and the stored settings probably dont match the main board, and may not be optimal for the smaller screen size. I would have taken the step of copying the original DMD board settings to the main board, then swapping the engine, then restore settings from main to the "new" DMD board.

This is done in the service menu; scroll down to item 24 "SERVICE" (between CHECKSUM and DEFECT LOG) and enter the SERVICE sub menu. There, items 4 and 5 allow you to send the settings between the main and DMD boards.

Other idea is to keep the original engine and just swap the LED driver module.

Huh. I didn't know you could copy the DMD settings.

Yeah, swapping the light engine instead of the LED driver board was just my laziness.
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post #16674 of 16682 Old 10-15-2019, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by LazLong View Post
Huh. I didn't know you could copy the DMD settings.

Yeah, swapping the light engine instead of the LED driver board was just my laziness.
So LaxLong, did replacing the LED Driver Board solve the "pink" problem? I have almost the same issue with my HL67A50 (with the additional issue of reduced brightness). I too love my 10-year old Sammy (with a 2-year old DLP chip) and would love to keep it kicking (or at least restore it to "normal") so that I can donate it. Any help appreciated.
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post #16675 of 16682 Old 10-16-2019, 12:27 AM
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So LaxLong, did replacing the LED Driver Board solve the "pink" problem? I have almost the same issue with my HL67A50 (with the additional issue of reduced brightness). I too love my 10-year old Sammy (with a 2-year old DLP chip) and would love to keep it kicking (or at least restore it to "normal") so that I can donate it. Any help appreciated.
Yes, I believe the LED driver board was the issue. I replaced the sub-power board, and that didn't fix the problem. I swapped the light engine (or optical engine as Samsung calls it in the service manual) and the problem went away. I believe the light engine only has six electronic components, the three RGB LEDs, the actuator, the DMD board, and the LED driver. While all of these were obviously replaced when I swapped the light engine, the problem I was having was LED-related, which meant it could only be the LEDs, LED driver, or the sub-power board. I ruled out the LEDs and the sub-power board, which only leaves the LED driver.

Make sure all three of your LEDs are working properly by using the built-in test screens in the service menu. Be careful in the service menu as you can mess up the output of your TV, though performing a factory reset will get you back to defaults. With the TV off, press MUTE, 1, 8, 2, and the POWER on the remote. Use the down arrow to move down the menu to DDP3021 and hit enter. Then scroll down to Test Pattern(DDP) and hit enter. Once Test Pattern(DDP) is at the top of the screen, you can use left and right arrows to move through the test screens. Moving right after initially entering the Test Pattern(DDP) screen will give you the red, green, blue, and white test screens in that order (along with several others subsequent to these first four screens). Each of the red, green, and blue screens should be of equal brightness and uniform. If the fourth test screen is magenta (pink as I originally called it) instead of white you probably have the same problem I did. You can exit the service menu by hitting power.

The LED driver can be had on eBay for $35 shipped. There might be a how-to on this board for replacing the LED driver. The service manual for these TVs can be had via Google quite easily, and it explains how to replace the LED driver quite well. It's really an easy job if you know how to use a screw driver.

Good luck
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post #16676 of 16682 Old 10-16-2019, 07:41 AM
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Many, many thanks. Prior to my question, I went through the SM test patterns and my white is definitely very light magenta/pink (although not as severe as depicted in your video). When viewing content, my screen is very dark, but in the SM, the blue, green, and red patterns are vibrant and accurate. Grids and V/H line patterns are decidedly pink.

I make take a flyer on a used ebay led driver board and keep my fingers crossed. I appreciate your confidence in my disassembly/assembly skills. I actually replaced the DLP chip a couple of years ago and removed the back to clean the LED cooling enclosure and examine the LED connections, so I share your confidence.

Again, thanks for the clarification on your fix.
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post #16677 of 16682 Old 10-16-2019, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wswain View Post
Many, many thanks. Prior to my question, I went through the SM test patterns and my white is definitely very light magenta/pink (although not as severe as depicted in your video). When viewing content, my screen is very dark, but in the SM, the blue, green, and red patterns are vibrant and accurate. Grids and V/H line patterns are decidedly pink.

The color accuracy of my phone's camera isn't very good. The picture shows a MUCH darker magenta on the "white" screen than the TV shows in actuality. So, it sounds very much like your problem.

Again, good luck with the repair. Let us know how it turns out.
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post #16678 of 16682 Old 10-16-2019, 08:08 PM
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Hello, not sure if there is a search feature for a specific thread. I tried typing "buzz" in the search bar, but it searched the entire forum. And that word shows up a lot. In any case, if there is a way please let me know.


What I'm trying to find is the cause of a buzzing sound. It happens each time I turn the TV on in three pulses, and then subsides and is usually drowned out by the sound from the speakers. However, if I turn up the contrast (i.e. make the whites on the screen brighter) it gets significantly louder. So I have to keep a dimmer image than I would sometimes like. Can a repairman fix something like that? I have had this through three moves including the most recent one to Hawaii. If I can get it back to Texas still alive, I'd like to get this fixed. I already replaced the DLP chip with mostly success, and would like to keep this baby until it won't produce a picture anymore!


I say mostly success, because the image is now off center. I can't adjust it through the menu high enough to not cut off the bottom of the screen. I think there is a way to do this by opening up the back again, but that'll have to wait until the next move too. And I can probably do that one on my own.
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post #16679 of 16682 Old 10-16-2019, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsweakley View Post
Hello, not sure if there is a search feature for a specific thread.
Yes there is. At the top of each page of a thread there is an item in the top bar that says "Search This Thread". I don't know if that will improve your results.

Quote:
<snip> What I'm trying to find is the cause of a buzzing sound. It happens each time I turn the TV on in three pulses, and then subsides and is usually drowned out by the sound from the speakers. However, if I turn up the contrast (i.e. make the whites on the screen brighter) it gets significantly louder. So I have to keep a dimmer image than I would sometimes like...
Sounds to me like a problem in the main-SMPS (power supply), where the LEDs drawing more current causes more load on the HV feed from the main-SMPS to the sub-SMPS (LED power). This might be causing large ripple voltages in the main supply which could be affecting the audio portions of the main CPU board. This is just a guess, and would be the first place I would look at for replacing a module. If you had an oscilloscope, you could perhaps see whether this is happening.

Quote:
I say mostly success, because the image is now off center. I can't adjust it through the menu high enough to not cut off the bottom of the screen. I think there is a way to do this by opening up the back again, but that'll have to wait until the next move too. And I can probably do that one on my own.
You could loosen the 3 screws holding the DMD board in the light engine, and, using a mini screwdriver, squinch the DMD board U/D/R/L. This is a sensitive adjustment, as moving it half a millimeter wil move the image half an inch, so you'll have to tweak it in with tiny movements. You should probably set the H/V centering adjustments in the service menu back to mid-range before you move the board physically. I just did this a week or 2 ago after I replaced a dotty DMD chip.
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post #16680 of 16682 Old 10-16-2019, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsweakley View Post
I already replaced the DLP chip with mostly success, and would like to keep this baby until it won't produce a picture anymore!


I say mostly success, because the image is now off center. I can't adjust it through the menu high enough to not cut off the bottom of the screen. I think there is a way to do this by opening up the back again, but that'll have to wait until the next move too. And I can probably do that one on my own.
The service manual details adjusting the DMD position. It works best with two people; one observing the crosshatch test pattern, and the other moving the DMD board. I just did this the other night for the second time, and it was pretty easy. This Google search should result in the first link having the service manual:

https://www.google.com/search?q=hl67A750+service+manual

The service manual covers both the HL61A750 and the HL67A750.

Good luck
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