2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 327 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9781 of 11530 Old 01-05-2011, 08:29 PM
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Both tv's have a dvi/pc audio input so although they are different it is there.
Does the C9 have a USB input - no, but the C10 DOES have a USB input. Service only on C10, functional on 738.
The C10 has a better 3D package than the C9 did.

So in the end, you lost out on a few non-service mode tweaks and a lower end remote.
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post #9782 of 11530 Old 01-05-2011, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacofortacos View Post

I understand what you are saying. The only question I have is, why was the C9 cheaper than the 737 when as far as I know there weren't any differences? Doesn't resolve what you want, but is just a question.

I wonder if the C10 to 738 differences are hardware or firmware?

C10 is vastly different than the 738.

What happened? They gave you a C10 as a replacement for a C9? Thats really unfortunate from a picture/feature perspective. The C9 has alot more quality issues tho.
If thats the case, they will probably upgrade you to the 738 for $100-200 I bet.
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post #9783 of 11530 Old 01-05-2011, 08:35 PM
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While it is possible they are using 2 different processors, it might just be a marketing tool and the processors are in reality the same in production - different firmware.

I wouldn't believe that chart anyways as the picture on the mitsubishi website clearly shows and notes the DVI/PC audio input port - uses a different connector instead of dual RCAs. Page 17 on
http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/pdf/638-C10_BIB.pdf

The remotes are different.
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post #9784 of 11530 Old 01-05-2011, 08:47 PM
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Besides, did the C9 have internet connectivity?
If not then the 738 would be an upgrade to the C9, now I'm not saying they couldn't or shouldn't do it just for the aggravation from the original set.
BUT a C9 - 738 isn't any more of an equal swap than the C9 -C10 is, in reality the trade you received is the closer of the two.

In the end, what I'm trying to say is - if you are happy with your new set as far as geometry and picture, try not to sour it by thinking you got screwed - the better 3D is more than worth it if you plan on doing 3D.

Why not point out the differences and see if they will comp you a starter 3D kit
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post #9785 of 11530 Old 01-05-2011, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trapperjohnMD View Post

C10 is vastly different than the 738.

What happened? They gave you a C10 as a replacement for a C9? Thats really unfortunate from a picture/feature perspective. The C9 has alot more quality issues tho.
If thats the case, they will probably upgrade you to the 738 for $100-200 I bet.

Yup, that's what they did. And I didn't realize what a downgrade the C10 was until I got it.

I will be talking to the Mits rep tomorrow.
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post #9786 of 11530 Old 01-06-2011, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Buddyl33 View Post

This happens on my tv from time to time. Press and hold the power button for 10 seconds then release. It will take care of the issue. It's happened to me about 5 times in the past 12 months, even prior to me having 3D.

Thanks, that does the trick, and I figured out the Blu-ray no picture with sound issue... in the PS3 settings turn off the auto for 24fps for movies and it doesn't hiccup any more when starting a movie.

I never had it happen to me till I got 3D, will the reset for 10 seconds do anything to blub life, just out of curiosity. Since you've only had it happen a few times I doubt you've ever did further research on it... since it started once I got the adapter it happens off an on however it has happened more than 5 times in the last week... so its rather annoying.
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post #9787 of 11530 Old 01-06-2011, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacofortacos View Post

Besides, did the C9 have internet connectivity?
If not then the 738 would be an upgrade to the C9, now I'm not saying they couldn't or shouldn't do it just for the aggravation from the original set.
BUT a C9 - 738 isn't any more of an equal swap than the C9 -C10 is, in reality the trade you received is the closer of the two.

In the end, what I'm trying to say is - if you are happy with your new set as far as geometry and picture, try not to sour it by thinking you got screwed - the better 3D is more than worth it if you plan on doing 3D.

Why not point out the differences and see if they will comp you a starter 3D kit

Sorry, Paco. Just not seeing eye to eye on this. I do appreciate you pointing out the DVI audio connector. I missed that in the manual. The chart I posted was one I put together from the listed specs on the Mits website. While the C9 and 738 specifically mention a DVI/PC audio port, there is nothing mentioned on the C10.

But a replacement should AT LEAST have the same features as the TV being replaced. I want to be able to fine-tune my picture, among other things, and this is not a feature on the C10. I want discrete input codes; not available on the C10. And if my old TV came with a universal remote, then dammit, whether I use it or not, I want a replacement universal remote! I am not looking to benefit here; just want to at least be where I was with the original set. Is it my concern that the only TV that has these features has a lot of other features that I would benefit from? I am concerned that I am getting less than what I originally paid for. (and I am not at all interested in 3D)

If you ordered a nice prime rib at your favorite restaurant and had to send it back because it was over-cooked and they returned with a hamburger, cooked to perfection and tasty, but still a hamburger...would you send it back? Sounds to me like you would just sit back and enjoy your meal, not saying a word and pay the full price.
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post #9788 of 11530 Old 01-06-2011, 12:46 PM
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Mitsubishi sent me new firmware via email to fix my issue, and I can't get it to work. I followed all the instructions exactly, extracting the file to my memory card, unplugging the TV, inserting the card, etc, and it won't work. Before I call, does anyone have any tips?
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post #9789 of 11530 Old 01-06-2011, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by segatavis View Post

Mitsubishi sent me new firmware via email to fix my issue, and I can't get it to work. I followed all the instructions exactly, extracting the file to my memory card, unplugging the TV, inserting the card, etc, and it won't work. Before I call, does anyone have any tips?

heres a video tut: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzf9NflE7UE

Make sure the usb is formatted to fat32.

If you have the 838 model you should recieve a message when the usb is connected, if you dont get the message your usb is not being recognized.

verify you have both of the files on your usb and no other files.

wait for 30 minutes with the TV in the OFF condition (will AC connected)

thats all i got...
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post #9790 of 11530 Old 01-06-2011, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by segatavis View Post

Mitsubishi sent me new firmware via email to fix my issue, and I can't get it to work. I followed all the instructions exactly, extracting the file to my memory card, unplugging the TV, inserting the card, etc, and it won't work. Before I call, does anyone have any tips?

I had the same issue with my 73737 getting stuck on the welcome screen. I replaced the main board myself and it's now fixed. I'm also waiting for an email with the firmware because the new board has the 11.0.0 firmware.

I highly doubt the firmware will fix your issue. The people at Mits are idiots and first refused to send an update. Replacing the main board is very easy to do.
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post #9791 of 11530 Old 01-06-2011, 02:23 PM
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diggum, I don't blame you. I was just trying to point out that you didn't get taken "that" badly.
But yes you did lose some features, don't blame you on the 3D part and I hope they take care of you.
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post #9792 of 11530 Old 01-07-2011, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by segatavis View Post

Mitsubishi sent me new firmware via email to fix my issue, and I can't get it to work. I followed all the instructions exactly, extracting the file to my memory card, unplugging the TV, inserting the card, etc, and it won't work. Before I call, does anyone have any tips?

When I extracted my files there was one rar file not extracted on the USB containing "MITS" I extracted that file within the USB and it worked.

The above post with a video link is for 2010 models.
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post #9793 of 11530 Old 01-09-2011, 06:59 PM
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Hi diggum, thanks for sharing your experience with Mitsubishi. I also have the wd73C9 and I've had geometry problems since day 1, they just seem to be bothering me now that I'm watching more standard def/4:3 content. I'm thinking of calling up Mitsubishi for them to fix it, but I don't want to go through the rigmarole that you went through. Are there any tips you can offer me on getting the geometry issue fixed accordingly? Also, I do watch a lot of 3D content, what is the difference between the 3D on the C10 compared to the C9 other than the DLP link option? Thanks in advance!
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post #9794 of 11530 Old 01-10-2011, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by spankynuts View Post

Hi diggum, thanks for sharing your experience with Mitsubishi. I also have the wd73C9 and I've had geometry problems since day 1, they just seem to be bothering me now that I'm watching more standard def/4:3 content. I'm thinking of calling up Mitsubishi for them to fix it, but I don't want to go through the rigmarole that you went through. Are there any tips you can offer me on getting the geometry issue fixed accordingly? Also, I do watch a lot of 3D content, what is the difference between the 3D on the C10 compared to the C9 other than the DLP link option? Thanks in advance!

Good luck. Have you tried the adjustments in the service menu? How bad is the issue? See my pics earlier in this thread.

I have gotten through the second line of Mits defenses, the first being the phone CSR, the second being the "supervisor" who called me back with the escalation but knew absolutely nothing of the differences in the models and said the C10 was the proper replacement. She agreed, however, to look for the email I sent to them laying out the differences and give it to her boss. Waiting for that call....
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post #9795 of 11530 Old 01-10-2011, 08:03 PM
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Hey guys I need your help on some calibration hardware and software? I have been looking at the Spectracal's X2 meter with Calman 4. I'm liking the setup and features on calman but, I also looked at the Display 2 and Lt with the free Color HCFR. I know these meters aren't as good as the Chroma 5 and Eye-One Pro which at the moment is out of my price range. I'm looking for a colorimeter and software that is easy to use and understand. Plus, the most accurate meter and software I can get for no more than $350!!! I would appreciate any suggestions y'all have. How does the HCFR software compare to Calman.

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post #9796 of 11530 Old 01-11-2011, 06:18 AM
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spectra-cal sells a spyder 3 that has been re certified and i have heard that its a cheap accurate meter. Just don't get a stock spyder, they suck. at any rate, Spend your money on the meter and use the color hcfr program to cut on costs.
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post #9797 of 11530 Old 01-11-2011, 08:48 AM
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spectra-cal sells a spyder 3 that has been re certified and i have heard that its a cheap accurate meter. Just don't get a stock spyder, they suck. at any rate, Spend your money on the meter and use the color hcfr program to cut on costs.

Thanks I'll check it out!!

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post #9798 of 11530 Old 01-11-2011, 05:38 PM
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I don't think spectracal offers the re-certified spyder 3 any more. Didn't see it listed on the site they probably discontinued it. Looking for the best meter I can get for no more than $350 to get a decent grayscale and color gamut. Down the road I will upgrade to an Eye 1 pro when my budget allows. What's the best meter I can get and use with the color hcfr software?

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post #9799 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 12:14 AM
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Has anybody confirmed what game mode does on these sets? what it turns off, on? ie: I notice brilliant mode is not available when the input is configured as game, just natural, bright and game. What else is done with that mode? Also game mode is not available if the input is configured as anything other than game. additional naming like xbox, ps is available after configured as game. Have an 82837.

Richard
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post #9800 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDKing2 View Post

Has anybody confirmed what game mode does on these sets? what it turns off, on? ie: I notice brilliant mode is not available when the input is configured as game, just natural, bright and game. What else is done with that mode? Also game mode is not available if the input is configured as anything other than game. additional naming like xbox, ps is available after configured as game. Have an 82837.

Richard

The only other thing I found to be different, is that you don't have the "video noise" option.
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post #9801 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 10:38 AM
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I was curious which stand are you guys using I was thinking Altra Tv Stand it holds the weight. I need more then the two shelves i have now on the mitz stand.
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post #9802 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 10:52 AM
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I was curious which stand are you guys using I was thinking Altra Tv Stand it holds the weight. I need more then the two shelves i have now on the mitz stand.

That's awfully high if you have the 73". I guess you will have to go higher if you need more than 2 shelves. Just curious why you need the extra shelves?
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post #9803 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 11:08 AM
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Sorry my model is the 65737

I have a Motarola DVR cable box, xbox 360, Nintendo Wii, my router, Modem, and network switch (for my media server), and a WDTVl Live hub. I do also plan on getting a receiver to install surround sound.
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post #9804 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugenstylus1 View Post

I was curious which stand are you guys using I was thinking Altra Tv Stand it holds the weight. I need more then the two shelves i have now on the mitz stand.

that's still pretty tall, even for the 65". If you need the space, I'd look for something wider, but most two shelf units will still allow you to put 3 components side by side.

My stand is only 20" tall and has two shelves, but I still manage to fit the following in it:

Left side, top to bottom

Directv DVR
Blu Ray Player
UPS (BD player on top of UPS)

Middle, top to bottom

Center Channel Speaker, WDTV Live, 2TB HD, 1TB HD
AV Receiver

Right, top to bottom
Channel Plus Modulator
Directv DVR (modulator on top of DVR)
VCR
Directv DVR (VCR on top of DVR)


There's also an 8X1 ethernet switch behind the TV

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post #9805 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 11:31 AM
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I've said this in a few threads now, but I'm using the $50 Ikea Lack stand which is tailor made for the 65" and would accomodate a 73" if you don't mind the screen overhanging the edges three inches either side...

The bottom shelf easily accomodates three full width A/V components side by side, is plenty deep enough to allow you to put modems/switches/routers or anything else that you don't need immediate access to or line of sight for remote behind any the other components.

Only downside is that unfortunately it is not high enough to accomodate a standard height AV receiver.
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post #9806 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugenstylus1 View Post

Sorry my model is the 65737

I have a Motarola DVR cable box, xbox 360, Nintendo Wii, my router, Modem, and network switch (for my media server), and a WDTVl Live hub. I do also plan on getting a receiver to install surround sound.

If you get the stand for the 73", there is a lot more room down there than the stand for the 65". I have the following stand, and I could put 4-5 more devices down there.
LL
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post #9807 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 11:44 AM
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I think I might be looking for maybe 3 shelves instead of the two I have now. Preferable with an open back
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post #9808 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 4mula1 View Post

If you get the stand for the 73", there is a lot more room down there than the stand for the 65". I have the following stand, and I could put 4-5 more devices down there.

Are you testing a piece of equipment??

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post #9809 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 12:03 PM
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Are you testing a piece of equipment??

No, I used to have to block the IR input for the DVR I wasn't using. But the DCX remote stopped controlling the other DVR, so I don't have to block that one anymore. I just have to black the DCX whenever I want to use the other DVR. I assume you are talking about the cardboard in the picture?
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post #9810 of 11530 Old 01-13-2011, 12:06 PM
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No, I used to have to block the IR input for the DVR I wasn't using. But the DCX remote stopped controlling the other DVR, so I don't have to block that one anymore. I just have to black the DCX whenever I want to use the other DVR. I assume you are talking about the cardboard in the picture?

Yes, but didn't realize it was cardboard.

Thought you had intentionally "whited out" the front of the box in photoshop.

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