WD-65C9 error code 61 no picture blinking red light - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 38 Old 02-17-2014, 06:22 PM
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That is good advice about the bulb.  THANKS!

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post #32 of 38 Old 04-27-2014, 07:18 AM
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I did go ahead and put the new bulb in and will be using the old one as a back-up.  I never did do the software update.  Do you think there is any reason to do it? I basically just watch TV on this set.  I don't do any Netflex or stuff like that.

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post #33 of 38 Old 10-19-2019, 02:37 AM
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Sorry new guy here... so I recently bought a 82738 that supposedly just needed a bulb.... learning curve with these things is pretty steep... made the mistake of trying to put in a cheap bulb but have since bought an oem Mitsubishi bulb....

I still can’t get the thing to turn on.... having the same problems as others... as far as I can tell the fans aren’t even spinning... but I do hear a light sound coming from the power board when it’s plugged in.... I was getting code 61 but now I can’t even get that.... just dead... maybe I didn’t put the cover back on correctly.... tried holding down the switch behind the cover and don’t see the fan spinning.... might’ve damaged it when I tried vacuuming the inside

Could be the color wheel, ballast, power board (doubtful), or formatter board?

I found a 65c10 that is in pristine condition... planning on picking that up and either just using that or swapping out the parts... shop jimmy shows that many of them are interchangeable.... dlp chip, color wheel, formatter board, ballast, and power board......

What part would you all start with? I’m leaning towards the color wheel but could really use some advice....

You’d think I’d just toss the thing but I’ve already made the mistake of sinking money into the bulb, 3D player and glasses, and movies.....

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post #34 of 38 Old 10-19-2019, 08:41 AM
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I picked up the 65c10 this morning... the thing is in perfect shape.... I’d hate to take it apart to POSSIBLY fix the 82738.... I think I’ll just use the 82738 for spare parts (if any) instead....

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post #35 of 38 Old 10-26-2019, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by David Biagas View Post
I picked up the 65c10 this morning... the thing is in perfect shape.... I’d hate to take it apart to POSSIBLY fix the 82738.... I think I’ll just use the 82738 for spare parts (if any) instead....
Okay, so I took them both apart. I swapped both the power board and ballast from the bad tv to the good tv and vice versa.... good tv works with parts from bad tv.... bad tv does not work with parts from good tv.... I still get no light whatsoever.... fans do no turn on... but I do hear a light sound when I plug it in... what’s left to change? The color wheel? Could it possibly be anything else??

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post #36 of 38 Old 10-26-2019, 10:03 PM
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Hello David, My name is Adam. I am the guy who sold you the parts on ebay. I wanted to take the time to help you out with your tv problem as much as I can. First I want to say that I am not an expert on tvs and my career existed as a Registered Nurse before I became disabled. Although I have have become exceptional at figuring things out and fixing things (within my physical limitations). A back story. I had two of these tvs. The first I bought my Wd-82738 brand new in 2012 or 2013 from best buy with income tax. I had it for years and replaced bulbs, lamp ballast twice, and for matter board once. Oddly, I notice when a bulb goes out, it often knocks a board out with it. Other than that I have had no issues with the tv for over 3 years, besides adjusting the lens ( the two screws), and formatter board to get the picture centered and clear. Thats a royal pain. If you replace format board take a picture first and remember exactly how each screw was positioned.

About a year ago I was playing playstation, lost and got mad. I impulsively hurled my game controller into the tv. The tv had a huge gash in it. It worked perfectly fine, but there was a gash with blinding light coming from it. I wasn't satisfied with buying a smaller flat screen around a thousand give or take. So i found the same exact model tv on craigslist. The guy said that the sound was out on tvs main board and he thinks a wire snagged on it. (which is apparent if you look at the board) . He took tv apart and after that said he couldnt get it to power back up. So i bought the tv. Discovered he didn't connect all the cables. I powered the new tv up and it worked great besides there was no sound, you had to use a receiver and when you plug in a HDMI device it tried to recognize and list same device multiple times (example 5 dvd Icons at bottom). Shortly after buying the new tv my wife and I got in an argument about these massive tvs being in the house. So I decided to sell parts on ebay and set the rest out to trash. i know have an epson HC1450 projector and I highly recommend it. I am looking at a 120'' picture that looks way better than that 82'' ever could and it definitely saves on space.

I have read forums on these the model and similar Mitsubishi TVs for years. They do have a steep learning curve .I notice they tend to have a lot of problems. That is why this tv isnt very common anymore. Lets start from the more obvious. Make sure you have traced and connected every wire to where its suppose to go. make sure every silver screw is in place and definitely make sure that small brown wire is intact and connected. This completes the grounding Circuit. When you power up tv. make sure lamp door with back cover is ob and screwed in. If not you need to take a piece of tape and gently tape that door trigger in the into the direction of tv. so its no longer vertical. if your tv doesnt power up hold the power button down for 10 seconds until lights flash and after they are done flashing turn tv on.

See what all comes on, not only screen but, does any fans start, what about the lamp? Even if you have a black picture, if you look in back can you see lamp lighting up. Important Information. ONLY USE OEM bulbs with this tv. I have done a lot of reading and not only do the cheaper ones go out easy, but they dont disperse heat the same as the Phillips do ( i read that phillips actually has the patent on the way the bulb disperses heat, something to do with design) the cheap ones basically get far too hot and overheat or short something out). also possible fire hazard. Slim chance this is the problem but still somewhat likely.

Someone mentioned the color wheel ribbon cable being backwards or not in correctly. This is highly unlikely if you havent messed with that area. color wheel is underneath. Ribbon cable is attached to formater board. If you have tried every combination of lamp ballast and power supply, chances are those arent the problem. You mentioned to me that the Lamp ballast wire was damaged. Its hard to say if it is still functioning and happens to be damaged, or if thats the source of your problem. I have all the extra wires. If you need replacement i can sell them to you for a cheap price. I dont have them listed yet though.

now i don't know for sure how compatible your 65'' is with the 82'' but taking your word on it, what about swapping the formatter board or color wheel into 82'' . I would test one at a time , so you can narrow it down. Hopefully both are compatible. I don't know for sure. if you can rule out those two, all i can think of is there is something wrong with light engine or a wire. But I think these people are on to something. I would either start with the color wheel or formatted board. Probably color wheel first

From my experience, I have never had either of my tvs start up to a black screen and shut off and give code 61, like you are describing.


I really hope all this helps. Let me know how it all goes.
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post #37 of 38 Old 10-26-2019, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GameOfThrones87 View Post
Hello David, My name is Adam. I am the guy who sold you the parts on ebay. I wanted to take the time to help you out with your tv problem as much as I can. First I want to say that I am not an expert on tvs and my career existed as a Registered Nurse before I became disabled. Although I have have become exceptional at figuring things out and fixing things (within my physical limitations). A back story. I had two of these tvs. The first I bought my Wd-82738 brand new in 2012 or 2013 from best buy with income tax. I had it for years and replaced bulbs, lamp ballast twice, and for matter board once. Oddly, I notice when a bulb goes out, it often knocks a board out with it. Other than that I have had no issues with the tv for over 3 years, besides adjusting the lens ( the two screws), and formatter board to get the picture centered and clear. Thats a royal pain. If you replace format board take a picture first and remember exactly how each screw was positioned.

About a year ago I was playing playstation, lost and got mad. I impulsively hurled my game controller into the tv. The tv had a huge gash in it. It worked perfectly fine, but there was a gash with blinding light coming from it. I wasn't satisfied with buying a smaller flat screen around a thousand give or take. So i found the same exact model tv on craigslist. The guy said that the sound was out on tvs main board and he thinks a wire snagged on it. (which is apparent if you look at the board) . He took tv apart and after that said he couldnt get it to power back up. So i bought the tv. Discovered he didn't connect all the cables. I powered the new tv up and it worked great besides there was no sound, you had to use a receiver and when you plug in a HDMI device it tried to recognize and list same device multiple times (example 5 dvd Icons at bottom). Shortly after buying the new tv my wife and I got in an argument about these massive tvs being in the house. So I decided to sell parts on ebay and set the rest out to trash. i know have an epson HC1450 projector and I highly recommend it. I am looking at a 120'' picture that looks way better than that 82'' ever could and it definitely saves on space.

I have read forums on these the model and similar Mitsubishi TVs for years. They do have a steep learning curve .I notice they tend to have a lot of problems. That is why this tv isnt very common anymore. Lets start from the more obvious. Make sure you have traced and connected every wire to where its suppose to go. make sure every silver screw is in place and definitely make sure that small brown wire is intact and connected. This completes the grounding Circuit. When you power up tv. make sure lamp door with back cover is ob and screwed in. If not you need to take a piece of tape and gently tape that door trigger in the into the direction of tv. so its no longer vertical. if your tv doesnt power up hold the power button down for 10 seconds until lights flash and after they are done flashing turn tv on.

See what all comes on, not only screen but, does any fans start, what about the lamp? Even if you have a black picture, if you look in back can you see lamp lighting up. Important Information. ONLY USE OEM bulbs with this tv. I have done a lot of reading and not only do the cheaper ones go out easy, but they dont disperse heat the same as the Phillips do ( i read that phillips actually has the patent on the way the bulb disperses heat, something to do with design) the cheap ones basically get far too hot and overheat or short something out). also possible fire hazard. Slim chance this is the problem but still somewhat likely.

Someone mentioned the color wheel ribbon cable being backwards or not in correctly. This is highly unlikely if you havent messed with that area. color wheel is underneath. Ribbon cable is attached to formater board. If you have tried every combination of lamp ballast and power supply, chances are those arent the problem. You mentioned to me that the Lamp ballast wire was damaged. Its hard to say if it is still functioning and happens to be damaged, or if thats the source of your problem. I have all the extra wires. If you need replacement i can sell them to you for a cheap price. I dont have them listed yet though.

now i don't know for sure how compatible your 65'' is with the 82'' but taking your word on it, what about swapping the formatter board or color wheel into 82'' . I would test one at a time , so you can narrow it down. Hopefully both are compatible. I don't know for sure. if you can rule out those two, all i can think of is there is something wrong with light engine or a wire. But I think these people are on to something. I would either start with the color wheel or formatted board. Probably color wheel first

From my experience, I have never had either of my tvs start up to a black screen and shut off and give code 61, like you are describing.


I really hope all this helps. Let me know how it all goes.
Thanks for your response! Funny my wife is an rn and really isn’t happy with me bringing these huge TVs into our house... she wanted me to just spend the extra money on a projector but I felt like I had already invested too much... a part of me is thinking about just cutting my losses while another part of me wants to pick up this working 82” I found on marketplace ($150) and keep the parts from my broken 82” as spares... at least I know the power board and ballast work... I’m sure other parts might be useful.... and I’ve learned a little about fixing them in the short week or two that I’ve had them....

I took the bad tv apart earlier today but didn’t want to take the formatter board out of the 65” for fear that I’d break something or connect it incorrectly..... shop jimmy said all the parts were compatible..... I started to worry that the tv went from flashing lights with code 61 to no response at all because of something I did... but that happened before I did all of this (after I had only changed the bulb and potentially damaged the ballast cable with that cheap bulb I returned....

Vizio M75-E1 || Onkyo TX-SR393 || Sanyo 4k Blu-Ray || Apple TV 4k
Vizio M70-D3 || Onkyo TX-SR373 || Xbox One X || Apple TV 4k
Mitsubishi WD-82838 || Pioneer SC-95 || Sanyo 4k Blu-Ray || Apple TV 4k
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post #38 of 38 Old 10-28-2019, 11:52 AM
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Just wanted to update you Adam (and potentially anyone else following this).... I went ahead and bought the 82838.... the three TVs all use the same power board, ballast, and dlp chip (which I assume works on the bad set).... so buying the bad tv wasn’t a complete waste... I also still have the new mits bulb I purchased so I can pop that in when one of these is about to go out.... thanks for letting me know that a busted bulb usually takes another part out with it.... I’ll be sure to change it as soon as I get a warning sign that it’s going to go out...

I just watched some of aquaman and am thoroughly impressed with the 3D output! Thanks for your help (and for the 3D glasses)!!

Vizio M75-E1 || Onkyo TX-SR393 || Sanyo 4k Blu-Ray || Apple TV 4k
Vizio M70-D3 || Onkyo TX-SR373 || Xbox One X || Apple TV 4k
Mitsubishi WD-82838 || Pioneer SC-95 || Sanyo 4k Blu-Ray || Apple TV 4k
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