WD-65C9 error code 61 no picture blinking red light - AVS Forum

voodooDX · 01-21-2013, 12:57 PM

Hi guys i have a WD-65C9 that gives me a few seconds of audio before shutting off with a blinking red light. When you hold enter + down it gives an error code of 61, "No LAMP-EN output from the engine to the ballast Bad Color Wheel (Loose J6 or J7 connector)". So i replaced the color wheel, and i still get the same error.

With the back off i can see that none of the fans are spinning, and i don't hear the color wheel. It's about as dead as can be. Any ideas? As I'm at a loss on how to proceed.

Augerhandle · 01-21-2013, 04:23 PM

Have you checked/replaced the lamp?

voodooDX · 01-21-2013, 06:11 PM

Not yet, but i seem to remember that the fans start first, then the color wheel, and finally the lamp. I'll order one up, but I'm getting nothing back there. Someone mentioned to check the caps on the power supply, and after a close visual inspection I can't find any signs of bloating or anything. I went back and checked J6 and J7 just be be sure without any luck as well.

pacofortacos · 01-21-2013, 10:55 PM

I doubt it is the lamp also.

Do you have the service manual?

voodooDX · 01-22-2013, 11:56 AM

yep Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?f3hrxbhh2qbgv8q

pacofortacos · 01-22-2013, 03:45 PM

Maybe a safety switch not made?
Did you check for power anywhere?
Have you verified NOTE: Do not twist the ribbon cable to J6 (the shiny silver
contacts must be facing up).

I know where there are lots of parts

But, hard to say without seeing it as to what would be needed.

voodooDX · 01-30-2013, 11:19 PM

Hmm safety switch? like the lamp door switch? when it's not engaged the front LED blinks orange.
Nothings working outside of the little LED on the front thats mocking me. The audio was too but, i unplugged the cable box when i moved the TV out.
I pulled it out, and did it again just to make sure the contacts were facing up.

Sorry its been a minute i actually had jury duty in downtown Detroit of all places..... LOL! but anyway since the last episode I replaced the lamp (OEM), lamp ballast, and the PWB-POWER board which happened to be on sale for 20 bucks so i figured what the heck. The end result being no change in anything

Sailing further down the error codes i see "Code 61 - No Lamp Enable is received at the PWB-MAIN and Ballast.". Assuming the MAIN board is functioning correctly, does that mean that the Optical engine is telling the MAIN board not to flip the switch? Or does that mean the MAIN board is not getting the enable signal from the engine at all? Either way it sounds like it's the Engine board right? I mean there isn't much else to the thing but the board, lens, and the color wheel. It also looks like the board controls the fans as well.

If my math adds up got one of those boards?

pacofortacos · 01-31-2013, 06:52 AM

I take it as the main and ballast do not see the lamp enable signal - which makes sense because for the lamp enable signal to come, the color wheel and everything else has to be on and working.

You aren't getting anything at all correct? No color wheel movement, any fans, anything?

Did you check all your fuses and voltages on the PS?
Did you do a reset?

voodooDX · 01-31-2013, 02:09 PM

Nothings doing anything back there
No i don't have a multimeter handy, but i installed a brand new power supply when i put in the new bulb and ballast.
Just did a reset (held power for 8 seconds) it rebooted, and there was no change. Gives the same error code.

pacofortacos · 01-31-2013, 02:39 PM

Do you have the old power supply?
Has it worked at all since you did the work?

voodooDX · 01-31-2013, 02:49 PM

Yep kept all the old parts because i figure since theres nothing really wrong with them they could be useful down the line.
Absolutely no change what so ever.
I'm gonna borrow or buy a multimeter this weekend, i probably should have gotten one when this all started.

pacofortacos · 01-31-2013, 10:05 PM

The no fans I think is a major clue, I didn't look at the manual. I wonder if the power to turn on the fans and the color wheel come from the same source?

I wonder if you have an open thermal sensor.

Check your DVI cable too.

You should have 5V at the color wheel and VCC and gnd at the fans - not sure what VCC stands for. I only see 12V and 3.3V coming into the light engine.

voodooDX · 02-10-2013, 11:25 PM

Looks like the engine board, dmd board, formatter board.... whatever you wanna call it was the problem.

Thanks for lending a hand shes as good as new

pacofortacos · 02-11-2013, 02:17 PM

Just the one board then, well that is good. Did you have one or pick one up used?

voodooDX · 02-11-2013, 06:30 PM

shopjimmy.com was out of stock at the time so i grabbed a used one off ebay.

pacofortacos · 02-11-2013, 09:30 PM

Is the firmware on that board or another, might want to check the firmware and see if it is the current one. If I am not mistaken there was a firmware update on this model that was fairly important - could be wrong though

Jaylo54 · 01-24-2014, 04:32 PM

Hello!

I was doing a search online to see what I could do with my Mitsubishi WD60737 and came across this forum and your problem.

My similar problem started a few weeks ago after having my DLP chip changed by my local Mitsubishi authorized service repairman. I was getting those white dots on the screen, and Mitsubishi provided a new DLP chip. The day after the chip was replaced my TV screen went black. When I turn the TV on the status light turns flashing green. When the light goes solid green, the TV is on, but no picture just sound. After about 30 seconds, the TV shuts down and status bar flashes red. While all of this is going on, I never hear a fan going. I thought it might be the bulb--even though the light was flashing red--so I ordered a new light. It has been two years since I changed the bulb. I was hoping it was the bulb, but when I put the new one in today, I got the same results--no picture and the TV shuts off in about 20 seconds.

I already paid $212 to have the chip replaced and $147 for the bulb from Mitsubishi. Those bulb prices went up since the last time I got one. It does look like the same bulb I bought from them two years ago.

When I do a check for the status code for a flashing red light--#61 is the code--"No LAMP-EN output from the engine to the ballast" it looks like a bad color wheel. If the J6 or J7 are loose is this something that can be fixed without changing the entire color wheel. I hate to spend more money on parts for this TV when their is no guarantee that it is going to get fixed.

Also is there any chance that changing the DLP chip has contributed to this problem?

Also I was never able to do the software upgrade for this TV and since the TV will not stay on any longer than 20 seconds there is no chance of doing that now. Could that be a problem. Mitsubishi told me to try to install the new software, but like I said, the TV won't stay on long enough for me to do that.

ANY SUGGESTIONS?

THANKS!

Janet O

voodooDX · 01-25-2014, 12:09 PM

I actually asked this question on a few sites, and pacofortacos was the only one to even attempt to help me. Sadly I'm no expert on TVs, but I'll do my best to help. It sounds to me like you have the exact same problem as I had so I would change the formatter board. I have no idea if changing the DLP chip caused your problem, but the formatter board is what the DLP chip plugs into so who knows. Now, before the color wheel goes it makes a bunch of racket so if you didn't hear anything out of the ordinary lets just rule that out. The good news I have for you is that i found this TV amazingly simple to work on. Just unscrew the lower back, unplug the connectors, unscrew the engine, and pull the whole thing out. I think those J connectors/plugs were on top of the formatter board as well so its possible they came loose when the guy did the repair, but i wouldn't bet on it.

http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Mitsubishi+WD60737 This place has just about everything for these TV's

Also you shouldn't have much problem finding an OEM Phillips lamp with housing for around $100 bucks online so I wouldn't go thought Mitsubishi anymore.

pacofortacos · 01-25-2014, 01:00 PM

Jaylo 54, you never know if a connection came loose while they were in there. I am assuming though, that the tv worked after they were done.

I would call Mitsubishi and the repairman back and ask them for further guidance as it happened the day after they touched it. See what they say. If they don't offer to fix it for free then you can try doing it if you are comfortable repairing the tv - there really isn't much in there.

I have 2 spare chassis here, so of course mine will never break!

voodooDX · 01-25-2014, 04:38 PM

Hey paco! You know I could actually use your advice myself. My TV developed this wonky discoloration at the top of the screen. I dunno... color wheel, chip, lens? Any ideas on this one?

Jaylo54 · 02-01-2014, 01:01 PM

Thanks for your input. There was no noise prior to the TV going black. It worked fine the day the DLP chip was changed. The following day when my sister turned the TV on is when the problem started. No picture but sound for about twenty seconds. Then the shutdown and then the flashing red status light. Also no fan sounds. The TV repair guy told me he would like to take it to his shop to get a better look at things. I'm going to have him read some of these posting. They may help him.

I'm not a repairman and really don't want to mess with things in the back of this TV. If my brother lived closer I'm sure he would be able to fix it or at least run it through some tests. I just have to get a diagnosis here to see if I want to trash it or spend a little more money on it. They said they would give me an estimate for free. We'll see. I'll let you know what happens.

THANKS!

Janet

pacofortacos · 02-03-2014, 10:12 PM

Voodoo is that on all inputs or just one?

Does your model have the ports in the sides? If so, pull one and look at the projector while the tv is on, it might just be dirt on the projector lens.

pacofortacos · 02-03-2014, 10:15 PM

Jaylo why would he have to take it to the shop? If it is doing it all the time, he should be able to check it there.

Also if you look at the back of the tv, do you see light when you turn it on? Most likely not but I figured I'd ask.

Did you try a hard reset of the tv?

Jaylo54 · 02-04-2014, 12:23 PM

I see no light and I hear no fans. How do you do a hard reset? I know I have hit the reset button which is beside the status light.
He has a partner so I think they both want to work on it together. It would make it easier on me just to do it at my home. They still have not picked it up yet!

old corps · 02-04-2014, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaylo54

I see no light and I hear no fans. How do you do a hard reset? I know I have hit the reset button which is beside the status light.
He has a partner so I think they both want to work on it together. It would make it easier on me just to do it at my home. They still have not picked it up yet!

Janet-A hard reset is nothing more than unplugging the set for a few minutes. If it went out right after they replaced the chip IMO it pretty much has to be related. Maybe something was left loose??? I wonder if it could be related to the switch on the "door" where the lamp is located? If that switch isn't "closed" I think it would react like you're describing. I think it's a plunger type switch and if it thinks the "door" isn't secured properly the TV won't display video and shut down. I'd find the switch and find a way to hold it down--tape it? I've read about the doors becoming warped and not closing the switch properly. Just a thought. Best of luck!

Ed

pacofortacos · 02-04-2014, 09:20 PM

1st perform a System Reset by
pressing the POWER button on the front panel and holding it for 8 seconds. If this does not resolve the issue,
they can perform an A/V Reset by pressing the ACTIVITY + VOL 􀁥 buttons on the front panel at the same time
and holding for 10 seconds. Then, if necessary, perform a user level Initialization by pressing MENU ,1-2-
3, ENTER with the remote.

Jaylo54 · 02-12-2014, 04:32 PM

Well the TV repair man finally came to the house today. He was supposed to pick the TV up and take it to the shop for a free diagnosis, but he worked on it at my house instead with his partner. He does seem to think it is the color wheel. He had a color wheel with him--not the model I would need though--and connected it to my TV. It did seem to make some "noises" while connected that lead him to believe that using the correct color wheel will make the difference. He is going to pick the correct one up at one of his shops--he thinks he has one. So if this does not work its the last straw for this TV--I'm getting a new one! I'll let you know what happens! Thanks for all of you help!

old corps · 02-13-2014, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaylo54

Well the TV repair man finally came to the house today. He was supposed to pick the TV up and take it to the shop for a free diagnosis, but he worked on it at my house instead with his partner. He does seem to think it is the color wheel. He had a color wheel with him--not the model I would need though--and connected it to my TV. It did seem to make some "noises" while connected that lead him to believe that using the correct color wheel will make the difference. He is going to pick the correct one up at one of his shops--he thinks he has one. So if this does not work its the last straw for this TV--I'm getting a new one! I'll let you know what happens! Thanks for all of you help!

Let us know how you make out. Hope it doesn't cost you a bunch more!

Ed

Jaylo54 · 02-17-2014, 05:10 PM

Well after about a month with no big screen television...I finally have it back!!! I never realized how a TV could make a person so happy! In review... when the TV went bad I did a search online and found a repair manual for my WD60737. It showed me how to do a self diagnostic test with the TV. I got a Code 61 to come up which meant a bad color wheel...and that is what it was. The repairman put a new one in today and I now have a beautiful picture. I thought it might have been a bad bulb because it had been two years since I last replaced it, and I did buy a new bulb, but the picture is fine without it. I was going to return the bulb to Mitsubishi to get a refund initially. Now I am going to keep it as a back-up because the one I have in the TV now is two years old. It is bound to go sometime here I'm sure.

I know I could have put the money I have spent here towards a new TV...but I like this TV. I hope to get at least another year or two out of it.

I was due to do a software update with this TV. Now I'm a little nervous to do it for fear I might lose my beautiful picture or that something else might go wrong. I'll have to check with Mitsubishi to see if I really need to do it.

THANKS to ALL for all of the help!!!

:)

Janet

colour · 02-17-2014, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaylo54

Well after about a month with no big screen television...I finally have it back!!! I never realized how a TV could make a person so happy! In review... when the TV went bad I did a search online and found a repair manual for my WD60737. It showed me how to do a self diagnostic test with the TV. I got a Code 61 to come up which meant a bad color wheel...and that is what it was. The repairman put a new one in today and I now have a beautiful picture. I thought it might have been a bad bulb because it had been two years since I last replaced it, and I did buy a new bulb, but the picture is fine without it. I was going to return the bulb to Mitsubishi to get a refund initially. Now I am going to keep it as a back-up because the one I have in the TV now is two years old. It is bound to go sometime here I'm sure.

I know I could have put the money I have spent here towards a new TV...but I like this TV. I hope to get at least another year or two out of it.

I was due to do a software update with this TV. Now I'm a little nervous to do it for fear I might lose my beautiful picture or that something else might go wrong. I'll have to check with Mitsubishi to see if I really need to do it.

THANKS to ALL for all of the help!!!

Janet

I would test the lamp and make sure it works. Personally I would replace it anyway and keep the old one as a backup. As for the firmware update I've had no issues updating.

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