2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread - Page 315 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9421 of 9435 Old 11-12-2016, 11:49 AM
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65831 firmware update

Hello All, I was hoping for some help locating the firmware/software update for my 65831? It does not seem to be available on the Mits site any longer. TV is working fine, but I have never updated it since I bought it new. I replaced the bulb and the chip and figured I might as well do the firmware too. Can anyone point me in the right direction? It would be much appreciated.
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post #9422 of 9435 Old 11-13-2016, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by infoseeker View Post
Hello All, I was hoping for some help locating the firmware/software update for my 65831? It does not seem to be available on the Mits site any longer. TV is working fine, but I have never updated it since I bought it new. I replaced the bulb and the chip and figured I might as well do the firmware too. Can anyone point me in the right direction? It would be much appreciated.
If everything is working, there's really no reason to worry about it. The only thing I recall being in any firmware fixes was something about the built in tv guide. If you use cable, it isn't something you will use.

But if you really want to update it, way back when I just called Mitsubishi. and they mailed it to me on an SD card with the procedure, and then I had to return it.

Be sure you know your current firmware version, no point if you already have the latest.

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Directions for updating your Onkyo xx5 receivers firmware. **Newly updated 7-22-2009**Re-uploaded 2-23-2015**

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post #9423 of 9435 Old 11-14-2016, 11:13 AM
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If everything is working, there's really no reason to worry about it. The only thing I recall being in any firmware fixes was something about the built in tv guide. If you use cable, it isn't something you will use.

But if you really want to update it, way back when I just called Mitsubishi. and they mailed it to me on an SD card with the procedure, and then I had to return it.

Be sure you know your current firmware version, no point if you already have the latest.
Thanks. I just figured since I replaced the dlp chip and bulb might as well go for the whole ball of wax, but I do not use the TV Guide, so maybe I will just try and look up my current version first.
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post #9424 of 9435 Old 07-15-2017, 02:07 PM
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Finally sold my 831 after ten years of great use. It will be missed. Having 4k is a nice upgrade, but the DLP movie quality picture served me well.
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post #9425 of 9435 Old 07-15-2017, 02:10 PM
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As an FYI, sold my 831 for next to nothing. If anyone else stumbles across the thread because they see one for sale for cheap, go for it, it is a great TV.
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post #9426 of 9435 Old 07-15-2017, 03:56 PM
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Finally sold my 831 after ten years of great use. It will be missed. Having 4k is a nice upgrade, but the DLP movie quality picture served me well.
I ordered a Samsung KS8000 this January when a good deal came up. It must have been the perfect time to make the switch because in the time between ordering my new one and it arriving, my WD-65737 got its first two white dots. I sold it to a college kid for $50 with instructions on where and how to replace the DLP chip. He emailed me six months later to say thanks and let me know he went through with the chip replacement and it's good as new. I'm glad it's still being used by someone who appreciates it.
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post #9427 of 9435 Old 08-08-2017, 05:21 PM
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I have a WD-65732 purchased in 2006. I've replaced one bulb, and it still has an excellent picture.

I do have one glitch that is annoying. When I first power on, the TV will come on switched to the RF1 Cable input despite that not being selected, or even connected. Or... sometimes it stays on HDMI-1 which is my Cable Box, but the TV will come up to a menu that says the TV guide is not set up. You have to hit EXIT in order to get off that screen, and my Xfinity remote does not have an EXIT function, nor is it able to change inputs.

If anyone has a solve for that, I'd like to try it.
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post #9428 of 9435 Old 08-15-2017, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by videoguy60467 View Post
I have a WD-65732 purchased in 2006. I've replaced one bulb, and it still has an excellent picture.

I do have one glitch that is annoying. When I first power on, the TV will come on switched to the RF1 Cable input despite that not being selected, or even connected. Or... sometimes it stays on HDMI-1 which is my Cable Box, but the TV will come up to a menu that says the TV guide is not set up. You have to hit EXIT in order to get off that screen, and my Xfinity remote does not have an EXIT function, nor is it able to change inputs.

If anyone has a solve for that, I'd like to try it.
Anyone?
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post #9429 of 9435 Old 09-08-2019, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by videoguy60467 View Post
I have a WD-65732 purchased in 2006. I've replaced one bulb, and it still has an excellent picture.

I do have one glitch that is annoying. When I first power on, the TV will come on switched to the RF1 Cable input despite that not being selected, or even connected. Or... sometimes it stays on HDMI-1 which is my Cable Box, but the TV will come up to a menu that says the TV guide is not set up. You have to hit EXIT in order to get off that screen, and my Xfinity remote does not have an EXIT function, nor is it able to change inputs.

If anyone has a solve for that, I'd like to try it.
Well... I never did get an answer on the input glitch, but... almost 13 years and one bulb later, this set still has a great picture. My only real complaints.... black levels are not quite what I get on a zoned LED set, there is a bit of silk screen effect, and of course there is always a bit of overscan on any projection TV. Most TV stations don't bother much with safe zones like in the past.

I am still amazed by the color on this set. Movies look great. Not bad for the age of this set!
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post #9430 of 9435 Old 11-03-2019, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by videoguy60467 View Post
I have a WD-65732 purchased in 2006. I've replaced one bulb, and it still has an excellent picture.

I do have one glitch that is annoying. When I first power on, the TV will come on switched to the RF1 Cable input despite that not being selected, or even connected. Or... sometimes it stays on HDMI-1 which is my Cable Box, but the TV will come up to a menu that says the TV guide is not set up. You have to hit EXIT in order to get off that screen, and my Xfinity remote does not have an EXIT function, nor is it able to change inputs.

If anyone has a solve for that, I'd like to try it.
Well... I never did get an answer on the input glitch, but... almost 13 years and one bulb later, this set still has a great picture. My only real complaints.... black levels are not quite what I get on a zoned LED set, there is a bit of silk screen effect, and of course there is always a bit of overscan on any projection TV. Most TV stations don't bother much with safe zones like in the past.

I am still amazed by the color on this set. Movies look great. Not bad for the age of this set! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
My GF has this set and the issue that I notice is there is a blue tint that is appears in the shadow areas. It's almost like grey color is blue. Any ideas?
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post #9431 of 9435 Old 11-03-2019, 08:36 AM
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My GF has this set and the issue that I notice is there is a blue tint that is appears in the shadow areas. It's almost like grey color is blue. Any ideas?
What are the Color and Tint settings? Also, PerfectColor and PerfectTint settings?
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post #9432 of 9435 Old 11-03-2019, 10:33 AM
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My GF has this set and the issue that I notice is there is a blue tint that is appears in the shadow areas. It's almost like grey color is blue. Any ideas?
What are the Color and Tint settings? Also, PerfectColor and PerfectTint settings?
I will check when I next go to her house.
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post #9433 of 9435 Old 11-04-2019, 12:21 PM
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My GF has this set and the issue that I notice is there is a blue tint that is appears in the shadow areas. It's almost like grey color is blue. Any ideas?
What are the Color and Tint settings? Also, PerfectColor and PerfectTint settings?
Everything was set to default, 31 I believe is the center setting. If I go into PerfectColor and reduce the blue and cyan it does look better to a degree, but then what you notice in some scenes is there is a harsh transition of colors. Like if there's a mix of colors on screen that blend together it looks all boxy and pixelated. I don't know if I'm explaining that well, but there's definitely something up with the blues it seems.
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post #9434 of 9435 Old 11-04-2019, 01:21 PM
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Everything was set to default, 31 I believe is the center setting. If I go into PerfectColor and reduce the blue and cyan it does look better to a degree, but then what you notice in some scenes is there is a harsh transition of colors. Like if there's a mix of colors on screen that blend together it looks all boxy and pixelated. I don't know if I'm explaining that well, but there's definitely something up with the blues it seems.
How many hours on the lamp?

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post #9435 of 9435 Old 05-17-2020, 07:31 PM
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A relocation forced me to dispose of my Mits DLP.
It had one bulb replacement about 7 years ago, and other than the glitch where you had to hit EXIT when powering up, the set was working perfectly. It still had an excellent picture.

Unfortunately, moving it to Texas was not feasible. I tried giving it away, but found no takers.
My wife had to pay a disposal company to take it. She said she could hear glass shattering as they tossed it into the truck. 😢

Goodbye old friend.
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