Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 439 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13141 of 13455 Old 12-25-2015, 03:53 PM
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Hi everyone!

I haven't poked around here for several years. I have a Pro510, which I dearly loved. With the kids in the house, it has been on about five hours a day since I installed it in the early 2000's. It's showing it's age.

Bob walked me through some cleaning several years ago. The convergence and focus is completely shot now, and the power supply now routinely shuts the set off after about two hours of use. That, plus the fact that it doesn't have HDMI, is making me think about a new OLED set. That's a tough decision because I LOVED this set, and the center of the screen still has amazing picture quality. But I know what a pain it is to tune these things, and I'm not sure I have the skill or time to spend doing it myself w/out even considering the cost to reflow the power supply.

I am in the Milwaukee, Wisconsin area. Any idea what it may cost to get this thing back into business? Or, any thoughts on the OLED replacement?

-Mike
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post #13142 of 13455 Old 12-25-2015, 10:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by er824 View Post
Thanks Bob. Its quite bizarre. Unfortunately more and more devices seem to be HDMI only.

Do you have a recommendation on a decent DMI switcher?
Not really, have never needed to. Just go with a high quality name if you can, or experiment.

When it comes to digital it's either 1s or 0s, so chances are one switcher will be as good as another. There is no digital to analog conversion, nor analog to digital, so quality of the analog is not a question here.

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post #13143 of 13455 Old 12-25-2015, 10:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mbahr View Post
Hi everyone!

I haven't poked around here for several years. I have a Pro510, which I dearly loved. With the kids in the house, it has been on about five hours a day since I installed it in the early 2000's. It's showing it's age.

Bob walked me through some cleaning several years ago. The convergence and focus is completely shot now, and the power supply now routinely shuts the set off after about two hours of use. That, plus the fact that it doesn't have HDMI, is making me think about a new OLED set. That's a tough decision because I LOVED this set, and the center of the screen still has amazing picture quality. But I know what a pain it is to tune these things, and I'm not sure I have the skill or time to spend doing it myself w/out even considering the cost to reflow the power supply.

I am in the Milwaukee, Wisconsin area. Any idea what it may cost to get this thing back into business? Or, any thoughts on the OLED replacement?

-Mike
I routinely bring sets like yours back from the edge and into full splendid operation again, even at current age. And if you buy a new set today, no telling how long it will last. With flat panels we tell people they will be lucky to get 4-5 years out of it before something brings it down and totals it. Your set has already been purring right along for how many years now? As an x10 series, it has to be at least 15 years. You really want to discard such a proven technology and its proven reliability, lasting power and longevity? Esp. since it can still look better than new even now? A couple of months ago I was flown to Seattle to repair and fully calibrate a PRE-HD set, a couple of years older than yours! That's how much Pioneer Elite owners love their sets. His review of my work can be seen at my YouTube channel, mrbobbigscreen. Just search out Seattle, as of today it's the latest one there.

Call me and I'll fill you in on the prices to get her back on top. Years ago I stopped placing a "how long it will last" expectation on these sets. I used to say 10 years, then I started saying 15 years.

Now I simply say they are permanent sets. Don't part with them. OLED is still very very expensive and still in its growing stages, with some shaking out to do that is still not complete.

What you have stated as its problems are not problems over here at my place, I resolve those all the time, all over the country, and with the resoldering op you get a permanent lifetime warranty on that resoldering work. My owners have rarely if ever actually needed to invoke it, and it's been going on for well over 10 years now.

Keep your set. Call me.

b

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post #13144 of 13455 Old 12-26-2015, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Oceanside and surrounding areas

I am traveling to Bakersfield today, tomorrow I keep going down to Oceanside to visit my brother for a few days. While there it would be good to get together with fellow CRT front or rear projection, OLED and/or flat panel afficianados. Tip a brew or watch a flick on your system.

Let me know if you'd like to do that with me, would love to make this 2015 Xmas/NY/interim trip to SoCal memorable -

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post #13145 of 13455 Old 12-28-2015, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
I routinely bring sets like yours back from the edge and into full splendid operation again, even at current age. And if you buy a new set today, no telling how long it will last. With flat panels we tell people they will be lucky to get 4-5 years out of it before something brings it down and totals it. Your set has already been purring right along for how many years now? As an x10 series, it has to be at least 15 years. You really want to discard such a proven technology and its proven reliability, lasting power and longevity? Esp. since it can still look better than new even now? A couple of months ago I was flown to Seattle to repair and fully calibrate a PRE-HD set, a couple of years older than yours! That's how much Pioneer Elite owners love their sets. His review of my work can be seen at my YouTube channel, mrbobbigscreen. Just search out Seattle, as of today it's the latest one there.

Call me and I'll fill you in on the prices to get her back on top. Years ago I stopped placing a "how long it will last" expectation on these sets. I used to say 10 years, then I started saying 15 years.

Now I simply say they are permanent sets. Don't part with them. OLED is still very very expensive and still in its growing stages, with some shaking out to do that is still not complete.

What you have stated as its problems are not problems over here at my place, I resolve those all the time, all over the country, and with the resoldering op you get a permanent lifetime warranty on that resoldering work. My owners have rarely if ever actually needed to invoke it, and it's been going on for well over 10 years now.

Keep your set. Call me.

b
I'm struggling with this decision.

What is your charge for resoldering the PS?

-Mike
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post #13146 of 13455 Old 12-28-2015, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
I routinely bring sets like yours back from the edge and into full splendid operation again, even at current age. And if you buy a new set today, no telling how long it will last. With flat panels we tell people they will be lucky to get 4-5 years out of it before something brings it down and totals it. Your set has already been purring right along for how many years now? As an x10 series, it has to be at least 15 years. You really want to discard such a proven technology and its proven reliability, lasting power and longevity? Esp. since it can still look better than new even now? A couple of months ago I was flown to Seattle to repair and fully calibrate a PRE-HD set, a couple of years older than yours! That's how much Pioneer Elite owners love their sets. His review of my work can be seen at my YouTube channel, mrbobbigscreen. Just search out Seattle, as of today it's the latest one there.

Call me and I'll fill you in on the prices to get her back on top. Years ago I stopped placing a "how long it will last" expectation on these sets. I used to say 10 years, then I started saying 15 years.

Now I simply say they are permanent sets. Don't part with them. OLED is still very very expensive and still in its growing stages, with some shaking out to do that is still not complete.

What you have stated as its problems are not problems over here at my place, I resolve those all the time, all over the country, and with the resoldering op you get a permanent lifetime warranty on that resoldering work. My owners have rarely if ever actually needed to invoke it, and it's been going on for well over 10 years now.

Keep your set. Call me.

b
I'm struggling with this decision.

What is your charge for resoldering the PS?

-Mike
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post #13147 of 13455 Old 12-28-2015, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Kinda have to keep talking about $ to a minimum on this site, admin gets very antsy about stuff like that. Contact me directly, I'll be glad to share that info with you.

It's definitely affordable to anyone who bought one new - a drop in the bucket, really. And for anyone who had it given to them - if that's all they have to pay, it's the most screamin' deal around.

Also, once tested at my place you get my exclusive lifetime warranty on that resoldering work. The incredible longevity of this set of models gets restored again and you get to keep using your set as a permanent set again.

Call me, we'll talk.

b

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post #13148 of 13455 Old 12-28-2015, 01:58 PM
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Bob repaired my power supply back in 2011 (I think...could have even been 2010). He happened to be on the east coast for a tour in 2011 and I had him do his 'magic' on my 510HD.

It's been moved since then (and amazingly didn't require much if any re-convergence). It's still going strong, and looks great.

Since then, I've upgraded the rest of my system to HDMI (with a Yamaha AVR to do switching). I use a HDfury to convert 1080p to 1080i analog. It works ok, though the switching doesn't always work pefectly. I'm not sure if it's HDCP or the 1080p to 1080i conversion. I've found that forcing an on screen menu to display on the Yamaha makes it work pretty reliably.

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post #13149 of 13455 Old 12-28-2015, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Have your optics been cleaned recently? You're way overdue. I can help you with that -

b

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post #13150 of 13455 Old 12-28-2015, 06:11 PM
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Let me know if you'll be on the east coast...
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post #13151 of 13455 Old 12-28-2015, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Just fly me in. At present I have no plans to be there but I always keep myself available to go. I love restoring these sets to better than new status.

I do do a phone consultation service tho, where I guide you every step of the way and keep you off any potential landmines. Which for optics cleaning can come in several different varieties. Once you have a crystal clear light path again, you will see how much totally dialing your set in again will restore it to the same efficacy as when I saw you last.

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post #13152 of 13455 Old 12-31-2015, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffw View Post
I use a HDfury to convert 1080p to 1080i analog. It works ok, though the switching doesn't always work pefectly. I'm not sure if it's HDCP or the 1080p to 1080i conversion. I've found that forcing an on screen menu to display on the Yamaha makes it work pretty reliably.
Jeff - which version of the HDfury are you using (2 or 3?) Looks like the 3 has some RGB mode image centering not included in the 2 but not sure if my PRO-510HD needs this or not? IIRC RGB mode locks to full screen mode where no shifting is possible (like with zoom, etc.) I think I'm going to give one of these a try. Any comments or experiences you have would be good to hear from someone first hand!

Every time I start thinking about retiring this set and realize how serious the issues are in current flat panel technology (black levels, motion blur, off angle viewing...) I get really discouraged. I want to be able to use my Oppo BDP-103 and other HDMI-only devices with this set! Yeah, I know it ain't perfect by any stretch, but I feel like I can live with the brightness and "crispness" issues (even perfectly focused and converged any CRT RPTV can't touch the sharpness of a fixed-pixel display although in general it will look more "natural") much more comfortably than what I'd get with an LCD. OLED is out as it has its own issues (longevity, cost, ABL) and this set is really just my daily driver for everyday viewing, which its been doing since 2000! (For any critical/theatrical viewing I have a JVC RS1x which still does quite an excellent job despite its age.) I have a lot invested in the set - replaced the blue CRT, re-soldered the PS board, performed countless calibrations with geometry work, had a custom A/V cabinet built around it - so I want to keep using it as long as its got life!

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post #13153 of 13455 Old 01-01-2016, 05:41 AM
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I have the HDFury III hooked up to my Pro 720 & it does a great job i also turned on the Enhanced Colour Depth on the HDFury & it improved the picture Quality on the 720.
It is worth the spending the extra money buying the HDFury III then buying the HDFury II
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post #13154 of 13455 Old 01-01-2016, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Actually to transcode 1080p to 1080i you need the Fury IV. The III has a lot to offer but is not capable of changing/converting the scanrates, that didn't get designed and produced until the IV.

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post #13155 of 13455 Old 01-01-2016, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug G View Post
Jeff - which version of the HDfury are you using (2 or 3?) Looks like the 3 has some RGB mode image centering not included in the 2 but not sure if my PRO-510HD needs this or not? IIRC RGB mode locks to full screen mode where no shifting is possible (like with zoom, etc.)
No centering is needed from any Fury on your set, the II, III or IV will work just fine. The RGB-only I will work fine too, if you have the scaler to be using the RGB inputs, or don't care if you have control over your color and tint.

Quote:
I think I'm going to give one of these a try. Any comments or experiences you have would be good to hear from someone first hand!

Every time I start thinking about retiring this set and realize how serious the issues are in current flat panel technology (black levels, motion blur, off angle viewing...) I get really discouraged. I want to be able to use my Oppo BDP-103 and other HDMI-only devices with this set! Yeah, I know it ain't perfect by any stretch, but I feel like I can live with the brightness issues
For whatever light level increases you gain in a newer backlit set you lose the same amount in the deepness of the blacks, which nothing except OLED can do better than CRT. Under movie theater lighting conditions, CRT has plenty of light level for any home viewing room, just as much as the arc lamp in a big movie theater provides for a big audience. And your blacks stay crisp and clear and inky. Which just won't happen with any backlit source that is not intelligently backlit.

Quote:
and "crispness" issues (even perfectly focused and converged any CRT RPTV can't touch the sharpness of a fixed-pixel display although in general it will look more "natural") much more comfortably than what I'd get with an LCD.
Fully dialed in CRT is every bit as crisp as fixed pixel. If you don't believe me, come on over to my house. You're invited.



Quote:
OLED is out as it has its own issues (longevity, cost, ABL) and this set is really just my daily driver for everyday viewing, which its been doing since 2000! (For any critical/theatrical viewing I have a JVC RS1x which still does quite an excellent job despite its age.) I have a lot invested in the set - replaced the blue CRT, re-soldered the PS board, performed countless calibrations with geometry work, had a custom A/V cabinet built around it - so I want to keep using it as long as its got life!
No CRT RPTV should need countless calibrations for geometry or convergence. Did you wait the requisite 45 minutes before starting each of your convergence sessions? There is a warm-up time period that has to be observed when converging CRT tech, both for master dialing in sessions and for just turning your set on from dead cold to watch it. Convergence won't settle down until it's been on for 45 minutes, after which it will be stable. Needs to fully warm up. Nature of the beast.

If you have some critical viewing you want to do, I recommend you turn it on 45 minutes ahead of time and keep it on an unused input, so it will have a black screen. Then when you go to your program material all the precision dialing in you instilled into it with your high precision convergence sessions will show up for you in your picture, just like when you finished your last convergence session while it was fully warmed up.

If you don't observe that warm-up period in both cases, you're spending needless time chasing your tail.

b

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post #13156 of 13455 Old 01-02-2016, 10:31 AM
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Actually to transcode 1080p to 1080i you need the Fury IV. The III has a lot to offer but is not capable of changing/converting the scanrates, that didn't get designed and produced until the IV.

b
Is there an advantage to going that route vs just setting the source to output in 1080i and using a II or III?

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post #13157 of 13455 Old 01-02-2016, 11:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes. For streaming.

The only advantage is if you are using a 1080p-only streaming device like Roku, Apple TV etc. None of these put out in 1080i, they all skipped it when designed, have only 480i/p and the progressive HDs. Which HDs our sets don't do. The progressive HDs like 720p and 1080p require a lot more bandwidth and higher frequency response, and when our sets were designed it would have cost too much and nobody saw any need for it, since 1080i HD was so head and shoulders above anything in existence at that time, including the highly expensive Faroudja processors, which were only affordable to those with the big expensive displays. Most of those big expensive ceiling pjs can do such things as bringing in either 1080i or p standing on their heads, but the price points on our sets just didn't allow for such sophistication.

It was the same thing in the reverse direction - the designers never designed in 1080p for our sets, just like 1080i has not been designed into the streaming boxes.

Very few streaming devices allow for both 1080i and 1080p, and the ones I know about don't do much of the content that is out there, like Roku and Apple TV do. Making them essentially worthless compared to Roku and A TV.

If you are not trying to use a 1080p-only HD streamer for your content, yes stick to 1080i on your bluray players and cable and satellite, and don't try to convert it. 1080i is dazzling, and speaking strictly for myself, I have absolutely no need of 1080p. My display is completely dazzling with the original, never seen before, groundbreaking HD format: 1080i and gives me my "own private IMAX", as strangers call it.

Newer is not always better. Look at the resurgence of turntables and vinyl now that digital has had its chance. Vinyl has come back big time, and tube audio - the oldest electronic amplification format in the world - has never gone out of style and is owned by the most serious audiophiles out there.


Native is always best with direct connections. Without the presence of an expensive scaler - which will also need a Fury I, II or III or IV anyway, if you don't want your picture blanking out on you - converting any scanrate to any other scanrate cannot cause any improvements, only degradations. The HD Fury series has always been top shelf in not causing any degradations at all. What goes in is what comes out, without any lowering of the standards or the quality of your viewing. It's the perfect converter for streaming 1080p-only source units, and the Fury IV - also known as the 3D Fury - is the best choice I know of for converting the p to the i.

Any CRT afficianados out there, contact me if you want me involved in setting you up with any of the Fury devices.

b

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post #13158 of 13455 Old 01-03-2016, 07:23 PM
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Yes. For streaming.

The only advantage is if you are using a 1080p-only streaming device like Roku, Apple TV etc. None of these put out in 1080i, they all skipped it when designed, have only 480i/p and the progressive HDs. Which HDs our sets don't do. The progressive HDs like 720p and 1080p require a lot more bandwidth and higher frequency response, and when our sets were designed it would have cost too much and nobody saw any need for it, since 1080i HD was so head and shoulders above anything in existence at that time, including the highly expensive Faroudja processors, which were only affordable to those with the big expensive displays. Most of those big expensive ceiling pjs can do such things as bringing in either 1080i or p standing on their heads, but the price points on our sets just didn't allow for such sophistication.

It was the same thing in the reverse direction - the designers never designed in 1080p for our sets, just like 1080i has not been designed into the streaming boxes.

Very few streaming devices allow for both 1080i and 1080p, and the ones I know about don't do much of the content that is out there, like Roku and Apple TV do. Making them essentially worthless compared to Roku and A TV.

If you are not trying to use a 1080p-only HD streamer for your content, yes stick to 1080i on your bluray players and cable and satellite, and don't try to convert it. 1080i is dazzling, and speaking strictly for myself, I have absolutely no need of 1080p. My display is completely dazzling with the original, never seen before, groundbreaking HD format: 1080i and gives me my "own private IMAX", as strangers call it.

Newer is not always better. Look at the resurgence of turntables and vinyl now that digital has had its chance. Vinyl has come back big time, and tube audio - the oldest electronic amplification format in the world - has never gone out of style and is owned by the most serious audiophiles out there.


Native is always best with direct connections. Without the presence of an expensive scaler - which will also need a Fury I, II or III or IV anyway, if you don't want your picture blanking out on you - converting any scanrate to any other scanrate cannot cause any improvements, only degradations. The HD Fury series has always been top shelf in not causing any degradations at all. What goes in is what comes out, without any lowering of the standards or the quality of your viewing. It's the perfect converter for streaming 1080p-only source units, and the Fury IV - also known as the 3D Fury - is the best choice I know of for converting the p to the i.

Any CRT afficianados out there, contact me if you want me involved in setting you up with any of the Fury devices.

b
Ah, I realize now that my DVDO Edge handled the 1080p->1080i conversion for my Chromecast and Fire TV stick.

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post #13159 of 13455 Old 01-04-2016, 03:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Yup.

The DVDO Edge is a great device, but even that good a scaler needs a Fury to get past the scrambling of its end result due to copyguard of copyrighted video content - most if not all of our greatest movies - resulting in blanking of the video signal. The Fury IV is the only device I know of that does it all, in terms of up/down scanrate conversions, without needing a scaler in the mix.

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post #13160 of 13455 Old 01-04-2016, 12:06 PM
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Warner Brothers is up to no good again:
http://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2...copy-4k-video/
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post #13161 of 13455 Old 01-05-2016, 09:33 AM
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Just wanted to post an update and thanks, especially to Mr. Bob. I decided to keep my 73" Mitsubishi. Over the weekend, we removed the front screen assembly, took it apart, and carefully maneuvered all 350+ pounds of it down the basement staircase, with all of about an inch of space on either side of the stairwell for the wide top piece. Got it all down safely without injuring ourselves, then carefully cleaned the optics, including under the lens barrels (lots of dust and hair under there) and a quick compressed air spray of the mylar mirror. Picture looks bright, clear, and awesome and it's ready to be hooked up for gaming and movies. Thanks, Mr. Bob, for your advice! Saved this one for years to come.
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post #13162 of 13455 Old 01-05-2016, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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post #13163 of 13455 Old 01-05-2016, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Conrad View Post
Warner Brothers is up to no good again:
http://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2...copy-4k-video/
Thanks Brian. Had not heard of that.

If HDCP wants to prevent illegal copying that's OK with me, I understand and agree with the rights of the owners of intellectual property.

What's not OK is depriving perfectly upstanding, legal and deserving owners of big screens - whose machines cost thru-the-roof bundles of $ when originally purchased - backward compatibility.

If they want to get rid of that which makes copying HD content possible that's fine, but whoever does so should ALSO be made to have the legal responsibility of replacing it with a product that can be used with vintage equipment, so owners are not frozen out of being able to continue to use it. And such vintage owners instead, be forced to use - and of course BUY - newly designed equipment ONLY.

Makes you wonder who is in whose pocket, up there in the legal arenas where these decisions are made. Yes HDCP has taken on the responsibility for eradicating illegal copying. But how many millions of dollars have they also been responsible for putting into the pockets of the new equipment producers, where HDMI is the only HD game in town anymore?

While perfectly operational full HD displays are discarded because of being relegated to providing only standard definition, jamming our recycling centers and costing their owners millions in new equipment they should never have needed to buy.

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post #13164 of 13455 Old 01-06-2016, 12:30 PM
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Of course if people go back to about fall of 2010 on this thread they will learn that Warner Brothers did this with the HD Fury HDMI to component converters. eBay would even block people selling them. If this is such a big threat then why haven't the other studios jumped in? This kind of activity probably wouldn't survive a Supreme Court challenge but then the effected group is very small so no such challenge was mounted.
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post #13165 of 13455 Old 01-06-2016, 08:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Yup, we CRT owners are just a little *squeak* in the grand scheme of things. To the powers that be up there, we don't really exist...



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post #13166 of 13455 Old 01-06-2016, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I will be in Everett WA on Saturday the 16th, coming up in about 10 days, restoring the picture on my very first HDTV, the year 2000 65" Panasonic now owned by Dave L in Everett. He moved it about 8', then moved it back, and somehow something went amiss and his convergence got messed up on all 3 scanrates. When I had dialed it in after the 11 hour truck drive up from East Bay here last year when he drove down here and bought it from me, its picture had been restored to stealth grade, age had not diminished it a whit. Absolutely stunning picture. He is also having me do his Kuro.

I would love to meet with other display owners there and in the Seattle area, esp. CRT owners of both projection and direct view. Please contact me if you'd like to get together.

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post #13167 of 13455 Old 01-07-2016, 06:37 PM
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Most enthusiasts who own GDM-FW900's (Sony's high-end CRT monitor that can do up to 2304x1440) own an HDFury so that they can play PS4 and XBox One on them. I hope Warner doesn't win. Because for the longest time, the HDFury line has been hampered by its inability to drive the higher-end CRT monitors at their recommended refresh rates (often times 85hz) at higher resolutions. For reference, I run my GDM-F520 monitor at 1920x1440 at 85hz, and (if my video card can handle it) 2048x1536 @75hz. No way the older HDFury's can handle that.

Now it looks like we finally have a device capable of pushing such bandwidth. And then it's hit with a lawsuit... Honestly, the reason people are still holding on to these displays aren't because they're old fuddy-duddies. Point me to a consumer-level monitor that can do 10,500:1 contrast ratio? Point me to a monitor that can do said contrast ratio while having an average delta E < 1 (and this is done WITHOUT computer assistance!!)? With high-end CRT monitors like Sony's GDM line and Mitsubishi's Diamond line, you can have your friggin cake and eat it too. Ditto for CRT projectors and displays.

Thanks to HDFury 4K, we can keep our CRT monitors well into the 21st century and use them to their full potential.

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post #13168 of 13455 Old 01-08-2016, 12:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Grab 'em while you can. The HD Fury line has been pulled from every big retailer I know of, including Monoprice, Curt Palme, Amazon and others. We are very lucky they are offshore!

And if you want to see examples of CRT in all its glory, check out the Screenshot War thread right here on AVS. Thread Starter ovrclkr has a G90 doublestack that is the envy of us all, kept finely in tune by veteran calibrator Ken Whitcomb -

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/16-crt...t-war-189.html

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post #13169 of 13455 Old 01-08-2016, 08:53 PM
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Bob, don't know if you got my message. But here it is.

AND.....if anyone else can help, jump in!

My 60" RPTV Hitachi appears to have a problem with the Red CRT tube . Its showing "mild" flicker. It has also started putting out a slightly stronger contrast than the Green and Blue tubes.

The Red Tube just recently started acting strange this week. Its annoying and quite noticeable when watching letterboxed content (the black bars show red flashes and are no longer solid black).

Is the Red CRT about to die? Give it to me straight. I can take it!




P.S. This set has less than 50,000 hours on it. Probably half that much. It was purchased new in 1998 and has sat in a cool dry basement all its life in the same spot without much use. I just recently started using it again, everyday for the past two months. Its been ISF calibrated by Chad B
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post #13170 of 13455 Old 01-09-2016, 12:34 PM - Thread Starter
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As I said when I responded to your email about this, it could be the gun or the circuitry leading up to it. The gun could be starting to short internally.

I am available for phone consultation if you'd like to tackle this with my coaching. Or if you are close by in the SF Bay Area, you could have me do a house call for you. I am adept at changing out the gun if necessary and completely dialing the set back in again afterwards.

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