Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 448 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13411 of 13452 Old 10-29-2017, 08:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
I have never seen or dealt with the V-chip on these HD sets. Of course I don't have kids, either... I know on the old non-HD sets, that could be disabled with a punch of some of the remote buttons, holding 2 at the same time. No code was needed. But a remote was.

I have virtually never seen the remote sensor or its circuitry be compromised on these sets. Except for once, just a month or 2 ago, the remote would not work but the set could be turned on without it.

Turned out it was because the big single chip convergence IC was bad - we knew the green vertical convergence was not working anymore, but the rest of the set seemed to be working fine - and the remote ops came back once that chip was replaced. It's the STK 393-110, with twice the number of legs as the rest of the ICs used in these sets, and is very cumbersome to get all those legs in properly, for you DIYers. Those legs also separate from the chip itself when it is being removed, so special care has to be used in removing it, by counting the legs and their holes, and making sure all of them are accounted for in the end. If just 1 of those legs gets loose and into the rest of the circuitry, who knows what could happen.

You can find out if yours is affected by looking at the convergence IC location. Are there 1 or 2? The unit I worked with was an 11 series, but the 09 series might also use that IC.

That said, this phenom could happen to any convergence IC, so replacing yours might do the trick whether it's a single chip or double chip convergence circuit.

PS - if you don't find your remote, I have one here I can let go of.
BTW, the other night I accidentally hit the V-chip button on my set and the request for pw came up. I immediately went into survival mode, thinking I may have just locked up my set. I thought real hard about what to do for a minute, then hit the V-chip button again and it went away.

Whew! Heart in my throat, shortness of breath and everything.

That tells me that if you have not told your set to have a password, you don't have to feed that password in later, to unlock your set. I have never done so, as there are no little ones around my place to protect it from. However, I know many out there have families they need to protect their sets from.

If your set comes up with any V-chip PW related issues, I would recommend calling Mitsubishi directly on this one. They have consumer help lines for questions like this. If they can't help, feel free to call me and I will see what I can do about calling their technical support and seeing what they say.

Fair warning tho, the tech assist dept. does not support these sets anymore. Best we can hope for is that someone there has worked on the CRT sets before, and still knows what to do. The greats in the technical assist department, the ones who knew their sets like the back of their hands and all the secret ins and outs - like what the various different protection diodes in their cirucuitry do, which is not in their technical literature, I always had to actually call in about it - have all moved on.

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Last edited by Mr Bob; 10-29-2017 at 08:33 AM.
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post #13412 of 13452 Old 10-29-2017, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Since it is a Mit, gotta suspect coolant leakage on a freaky problem like that. Unplug your set first, go in thru the front and shine your flashlight back towards yourself, bouncing it across the boards. Also check the CRT metal cowlings up above for drips at their lowest points.

I have always been able to save the one-sided boards. If the 4 layer one under the blue gun gets hit, very few techs are capable of/interested in fixing it, including me. That one would need to be replaced. That said, there are many units out there left unfixed where the coolant got onto the other 2 boards, leaving the one under the blue gun still alive and well.

So if your set does leak, chances are 2 out of 3 that the set can be saved, in terms of cleaning that semi-conductive coolant off. That one final circ - that the blue board got hit - I have heard that some techs have saved them too, by rerunning runs that get hit and are within the 2 layer board, with jumpers soldered in.

If the coolant gets in under a big multi-legged flat pack surface mount IC with 10-20 legs per side (x4), that board is pretty much toast. Very few techs have the equipment nor the patience to replace flat pack ICs.

b

All that said, Google is your friend. So is ebay. I have been astounded as to what can be found on ebay these days.

Best case scenario is that someone has had other problems and has retired their set and is still parting it out, which can be a very profitable enterprise. If the Signal board - the one below the blue CRT - has never been dripped on by coolant - and this only happened every once in a great while - then that board is still rarin' to go and waiting for you to find it and put it in.

I have never been stumped on getting the other 2 boards up and running again if they have been dripped on by the coolant, so those can be sent to me. They are 1 layer boards while the Signal board is a 4 layer board.

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post #13413 of 13452 Old 10-29-2017, 09:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jbltecnicspro View Post
Say Mr. Bob - is there any test that one could perform, other than powering on the unit - to see how well the convergence IC's are holding up? Is there any way to know how long they'll last?

Changing topic...

So I want to share my experiences with people who read this forum as a bit of a precautionary tale.

CRT's can be the bargain of a century, assuming everything works correctly - or works at all. But at this point in their age, they definitely have the potential to be a nightmare.

A year ago, I got a pair of G70's. One had used tubes, the other had excellent tubes. I rebuilt the functioning projector with the good tubes and got it setup and everything was great. Image was beautiful, and I was running in full 1080p glory. Then a board blew. I paid to have it repaired (it was the PA board), and then another board blew. I also replaced all neckboards as well. Total cost ended up being close to that of a decent used JVC D-ILA projector. And still, it does not work.

I'm now using a Yamaha DPX-1200 DLP projector, which is actually a pretty decent projector even today. 720p is its biggest shortcoming these days, but its black levels are deeper than any entry-level DLP, and for the price I paid, I seriously couldn't ask for more.

Now, the image quality comparison is a no-brainer. When the G70 worked, it did everything better. The few things it didn't do better were easily made up for by its ability to do a much truer black and it had that film-like quality that the DPX can't really match at 720p. It was a gorgeous image.

So why do I say this? Most sets are nearing 20 years old. Depending on use, a couple of key components are going to break. I don't know what Mr. Bob charges for fixes on parts, but I do know that there will be a cost to be had. CRT's are no longer the awesome-sauce bargains they once were. They're aging and they will need work. If you're willing to learn and put in the time and / or money to have someone like Mr. Bob fix it, then go for it. They'll still knock your socks off. But if the idea of figuring out what fails in these old machines is a daunting task, then you should probably look elsewhere. Like I said - I spent around $600 fixing up my G70's and when the last board blew I finally had to call it off. So far the only thing I've had to replace on the Yamaha is a lamp that went out, and the cost for an official PJL-427 was surprisingly low. With the G70 - I ended up logging more hours working on/troubleshooting/fixing/calibrating the projector than I did watching it.

My two cents. Still and always a CRT lover though.
So sorry to hear that. I have a G70 in my sun room that I never hooked up again once I brought it home, about 10 years ago. It had a glorious picture at the time, with an HD Fury providing the native RGBHV it needed. Didn't even need to be an HD Fury II, the Fury I was all it needed.

It obviously has low hours on it, so IMHO there's a good chance it will perform flawlessly for years once resurrected again. I would be sure to be very careful about giving it an escalating 120v on first turn-on after 10 years of non-use, just to make sure and not shock its system with a sudden burst of 120v power from the wall. I have the equipment for that, it's called a Variac, and I was trained in this particular appication of its use by Sencore, maker of the color analyzers all the ISF calibrators - well most anyway, I chose Accupel and Colorfacts - used back then. Having attended their actual hands-on repair training, I have nothing but respect for what Sencore equipment is capable of.


So question is, with a low-hours/impeccably preserved/non-screenburned, excellent quality picture G70, who would like to try this scenario out again? It's right here, and I know now that I will never have that extra man-cave room for it, that I was hoping would come along. Each one has 10 years less wear and tear on it than any other regularly used CRT projector - in faithful service all those years, but still 10 years more wear and tear on them than on mine.

Contact me if you'd like to pursue this further. I would love to get it to a new home and see it being enjoyed again. Few projectors available today will be able to match its fully developed HD images and flow. Its 8" guns are finer than the 9" guns used in my current Mit 73", and the edges are so crisp you'll think you have 4K when you're only sending it HD, or 2K.

In fact 4K would be a no brainer for it, the intelligence built into these pj's back then for discriminating any of the available scanrates was phenomenal. 4K didn't exist back then to play on it. Since it was capable of line doubler, tripler and even quadrupler scanrates, I believe it will do 4K standing on its head. And 3D should be a cakewalk.

Regular consumers have NEVER seen 4K on a professional grade CRT triple gun projector! It would truly be a wonder to behold, far above what Faroudja and Runco Controller and Crystal Image line doubling/tripling/quadrupling scalers were capable of, back when low resolution SD 480i was the only game in town to work with.

NO content synthesized from 480i will even begin to hold a candle to native 2K or 4K on a projector designed to play any scanrate sent to it. 4K didn't exist back then, there were no cameras capable of shooting it. Upconverted low-res 480i standard definition was it. Upconverted 480i did OK, but the first time I super tweaked a $20,000 Runco projector and then sent native HD to it, even my jaw was on the floor at the difference. Head and shoulders finer picture, it was obvious to anybody, even the owner's wife. They were all in awe of their new picture.

I also have a Barco Data 800 data-grade CRT projector, straight from a company's board room, complete with its own ceiling mount and cranking-up roping, to raise it to the ceiling. Voom satellite was the only game in town for an actual plethora of lots of HD content back then. I bought the Voom dish for it and everything it needed - Voom was all the rage at CES that year - and eventually Voom and Primestar and Echostar did their evolution, and now we have the Dish Network we know and love today. I still remember watching Voom's James Bond movies on the Barco, which were stellar, without any fine tuning by color or tint controls needed, they looked absolutely fabulous just with the projector's native RGBHV input.

Both projectors will be low hours and in excellent working condition, and both need new owners as we speak, so contact me if you're interested.

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Last edited by Mr Bob; 10-29-2017 at 06:58 PM.
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post #13414 of 13452 Old 11-06-2017, 12:07 PM
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I am attempting to correct overscan issue with Mitsubishi WS-65413.
Need to shrink image 2" from each sides and maybe an inch from top and bottom.
Is it something service menu can correct?
Can someone point me to the service menu or even a step-by-step instruction how to do that please?

Thanks very much.
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post #13415 of 13452 Old 11-07-2017, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PortAh View Post
I am attempting to correct overscan issue with Mitsubishi WS-65413.
Need to shrink image 2" from each sides and maybe an inch from top and bottom.
Is it something service menu can correct?
Can someone point me to the service menu or even a step-by-step instruction how to do that please?

Thanks very much.
contact Mr. Bob
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post #13416 of 13452 Old 11-07-2017, 03:57 PM
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Question Another coolant leak question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
All that said, Google is your friend. So is ebay. I have been astounded as to what can be found on ebay these days.

Best case scenario is that someone has had other problems and has retired their set and is still parting it out, which can be a very profitable enterprise. If the Signal board - the one below the blue CRT - has never been dripped on by coolant - and this only happened every once in a great while - then that board is still rarin' to go and waiting for you to find it and put it in.

I have never been stumped on getting the other 2 boards up and running again if they have been dripped on by the coolant, so those can be sent to me. They are 1 layer boards while the Signal board is a 4 layer board.
After the coolant has been cleaned off of the boards, (and they are found to still be working fine) can anything be done to ensure that no more of it leaks down? I discovered leaks on both the green and blue tube of my Mitsubishi WS-A65 (2003-ish model) and have wiped off all of the leaked fluid that I could find, but I'd rather not have to get into a pattern of cleaning it up after every 100 hours of runtime. If not, would it be sufficient to rig up some kind of material to catch the coolant before it leaks down onto the boards?
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post #13417 of 13452 Old 11-16-2017, 02:53 PM
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I've got a 530HDi in Dayton, OH that I need to dispose of if anyone wants to give it a good home.
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post #13418 of 13452 Old 11-23-2017, 04:03 PM
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We finally have to make room in our basement. I have a Mitsubishi WS-65819 (1080i) that's available for free to anyone who wants it - Detroit area. Some cosmetic wear, but the internals are solid. Indeed, the main parts that fail on this model, the convergence ICs, were replaced in 2015 ( https://www.avsforum.com/forum/63-rea...s-65819-a.html ) and the picture has remained bright and sharp since.
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post #13419 of 13452 Old 11-30-2017, 07:37 PM
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I'm also moving on thanks to the recent sales. I picked up a LG OLED and am blown away by it, especially with 4k content.

I've got a Pioneer pro-510hd in the Boston area, if it helps anyone. The TV was shimmed by Bob to correct overscan (and it was cleaned at that point). He's also repaired cold solder joints on the boards.

-j
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post #13420 of 13452 Old 12-12-2017, 02:51 AM
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I just switched from a Mitsubishi 65815 to a 4K LG OLED65C7P. If we had the space, I would have kept the Mits and moved it to another room. Despite a lot of color settings on the LG, the Mits has better color for news or sports (via antenna or cable, both are limited to 1080i). It's as if the LG has a reduced color gamut, missing subtle differences in colors. On the LG decreasing contrast and increasing color settings helped somewhat, but still not as good the Mits. The LG also has a severe case of "soap opera effect", making films look like videos, but there are some settings that I haven't tried yet. I changed blu-ray player 24FPS from off to auto, but it only helped a bit. I'll miss the Mits 480p native mode somewhat, but we don't watch standard def stuff much anymore.

The guys that picked up the Mits are going to give it a new home, so at least it's not being dumped. They took the remote, owner's manual and the service manual that I downloaded (the main thing I used the service manual for was the code to allow the green baseline grid to be set).

Last edited by rcgldr; 12-13-2017 at 11:32 AM. Reason: update
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post #13421 of 13452 Old 12-19-2017, 09:17 AM
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Have a 620HD I would like to give away if anyone is interested. Had a 510HD before this that Mr. Bob repaired the power board for. I cannot remember if I swapped that board into this TV or not. Perhaps Mr. Bob can let me know if he commonly marked the power boards he repaired with his initials? The one sitting in my closet looks to be marked MB on it, in blue felt pen, but it's hard to make out the second letter. I've attached a picture.

Anyway, the TV does not have the protective screen as it was broken about a year ago and removed. Otherwise the TV is in great shape, no power issues in the 6-7 years I've owned it, and again, free. Located in Central jersey. Please let me know if anyone is interested. Bought a used P60VT60 to replace it as I need something that will be easier to maneuver for an upcoming move in the spring. Also have most of the boards from the 510 if anyone needs parts. Thanks!
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post #13422 of 13452 Old 12-21-2017, 09:01 PM
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Sad to say that after many years I have 1800-junk removal coming to pick up my pioneer elite pro 720. Not a thing wrong with it but it takes up so much room and the new tv deals are so good that spending 150 to get rid of it is worth it. Hope they can recycle it. Sure was a good tv from the glory days.
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post #13423 of 13452 Old 01-05-2018, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PortAh View Post
I am attempting to correct overscan issue with Mitsubishi WS-65413.
Need to shrink image 2" from each sides and maybe an inch from top and bottom.
Is it something service menu can correct?
Can someone point me to the service menu or even a step-by-step instruction how to do that please?

Thanks very much.
It's a painstaking process with many potential landmines. That said, I would not be without it. It's absolutely essential, IMHO.

If you do it yourself, be mindful that the learning curve is up there. I would be glad to do it for you or coach you in how, it is one of my favorite modifications (among others). Contact me -

Mr Bob

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post #13424 of 13452 Old 01-05-2018, 06:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Browningate View Post
After the coolant has been cleaned off of the boards, (and they are found to still be working fine) can anything be done to ensure that no more of it leaks down? I discovered leaks on both the green and blue tube of my Mitsubishi WS-A65 (2003-ish model) and have wiped off all of the leaked fluid that I could find, but I'd rather not have to get into a pattern of cleaning it up after every 100 hours of runtime. If not, would it be sufficient to rig up some kind of material to catch the coolant before it leaks down onto the boards?
After years of having this continue to happen, Mit came up with a plastic trough underneath where it would drip, for the dripped coolant to be collected by in the later models. Since yours had the issue, it's from before this drip collector. But there's another way.

Get a binder separator for between categories in a 3 ring binder, and tape it in there such that it sheds any falling drops of coolant down onto the wood at the floor of the set, away from the board itself. One for each gun.

Allow for cooling, don't enclose anything. Don't allow it to touch the tops of heat sinks or transformers, as if it's plastic it will probably melt. I would recommend paper/cardboard.

I have had good sucess with this.

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post #13425 of 13452 Old 01-05-2018, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffw View Post
I'm also moving on thanks to the recent sales. I picked up a LG OLED and am blown away by it, especially with 4k content.

I've got a Pioneer pro-510hd in the Boston area, if it helps anyone. The TV was shimmed by Bob to correct overscan (and it was cleaned at that point). He's also repaired cold solder joints on the boards.

-j
That set has survived magnificently! Sorry it has to go, Jeff. We did have fun with it.

Somebody grab that set and then contact me for the optics cleaning op, and she will look like new again. Not to mention other perks, like marvelous blacks and succinct shadow detail only surpassed by OLED. Besides their obvious incredible longevity.

These sets just keep going, and going, and going...

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post #13426 of 13452 Old 01-05-2018, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcgldr View Post
I just switched from a Mitsubishi 65815 to a 4K LG OLED65C7P. If we had the space, I would have kept the Mits and moved it to another room. Despite a lot of color settings on the LG, the Mits has better color for news or sports (via antenna or cable, both are limited to 1080i). It's as if the LG has a reduced color gamut, missing subtle differences in colors. On the LG decreasing contrast and increasing color settings helped somewhat, but still not as good the Mits. The LG also has a severe case of "soap opera effect", making films look like videos, but there are some settings that I haven't tried yet. I changed blu-ray player 24FPS from off to auto, but it only helped a bit. I'll miss the Mits 480p native mode somewhat, but we don't watch standard def stuff much anymore.

The guys that picked up the Mits are going to give it a new home, so at least it's not being dumped. They took the remote, owner's manual and the service manual that I downloaded (the main thing I used the service manual for was the code to allow the green baseline grid to be set).
Thanks for those observations. First I have heard of that! That's stunning information on the CRT format vs. OLED.

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post #13427 of 13452 Old 01-05-2018, 06:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superman0234 View Post
Have a 620HD I would like to give away if anyone is interested. Had a 510HD before this that Mr. Bob repaired the power board for. I cannot remember if I swapped that board into this TV or not. Perhaps Mr. Bob can let me know if he commonly marked the power boards he repaired with his initials? The one sitting in my closet looks to be marked MB on it, in blue felt pen, but it's hard to make out the second letter. I've attached a picture.
I rarely marked the boards sent to me, but sometimes. Unfortunately not in your case, I don't recognize that board in particular.

We'd have to know if the 620 is the version that had the vertically mounted PS board or not. If so, yes you could swap it out if needed.

Keep in mind tho that if you do, subtle changes would be there in your power supply, which would affect your convergence at the very least, possibly your grayscale as well. I would not do a swapout just for the benefits of the resoldering I did on the 510, unless needed. If needed, then try it out and see how much of the precision gets desecrated. If too much I will always be glad to resolder the 620's PS board for you as well, and give it my lifetime warranty just like your 510's board has.

Quote:
Anyway, the TV does not have the protective screen as it was broken about a year ago and removed.
I don't like what the glarescreen does to the picture, but on an Elite it does make the set look nicer.

I have the glarescreen for my 73" Mit still in its virgin cardboard, never opened it or installed it. It's available if you want to cut if down to size and use it.

Quote:
Otherwise the TV is in great shape, no power issues in the 6-7 years I've owned it, and again, free. Located in Central jersey. Please let me know if anyone is interested. Bought a used P60VT60 to replace it as I need something that will be easier to maneuver for an upcoming move in the spring. Also have most of the boards from the 510 if anyone needs parts. Thanks!
I am still keeping these babies alive for you owners, so yes I would be interested in the parts. Please contact me directly.

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post #13428 of 13452 Old 01-05-2018, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by firebrick View Post
Sad to say that after many years I have 1800-junk removal coming to pick up my pioneer elite pro 720. Not a thing wrong with it but it takes up so much room and the new tv deals are so good that spending 150 to get rid of it is worth it. Hope they can recycle it. Sure was a good tv from the glory days.
Sorry to hear that. Hope it went to a good family or a church needing picture in an overflow room for sermons on Sundays.

Keep in mind that if it's been well cared for - run at normal hours/day with contrast at default/midpoint and no screenburn has been allowed to occur - after regular and deeper optics cleaning, these sets will continue to look like new no matter what their age.

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post #13429 of 13452 Old 01-10-2018, 12:43 PM
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Greetings Bob,

Just checking what's going on with one of the largest threats.
I just coming from visiting my father in law where my former rear projection CRT Hitachi is. I did the 117 point convergence and it looks very good. It needs some mirror and guns cleaning by now but it sure looks nice.

On a different subject - Bob I sent you and email last week regarding the "Image Perfection Demo Disc", get back to me whenever you have a chance.

Greetings and Happy New Year to all.

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post #13430 of 13452 Old 03-01-2018, 07:18 PM
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I need help identifying a 80" CRT RPTV. I am a huge Chuck E. Cheese/Animatronics collector and I recently stumbled upon a weird RPTV in a closed Chuck E. Cheese. They supposedly rigged it up on to a platform and cut off the bottom half but I can tell that it is a full TV as it has AV inputs in the front. I am trying to figure out the brand of this TV and how to get it up and running. The show was built in 1999 and had a studio setup with lots of TVs around. This is the biggest one and it states that it is 80 inches in the manual. I assume the brand could be Hitachi because that was one of the brands that CEC used back in the late 90's. But I do not know if it will receive HD signal because I never went back there and looked.
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post #13431 of 13452 Old 03-05-2018, 03:53 PM
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Thumbs up Fascinating set

Quote:
Originally Posted by ry_cec View Post
I need help identifying a 80" CRT RPTV. I am a huge Chuck E. Cheese/Animatronics collector and I recently stumbled upon a weird RPTV in a closed Chuck E. Cheese. They supposedly rigged it up on to a platform and cut off the bottom half but I can tell that it is a full TV as it has AV inputs in the front. I am trying to figure out the brand of this TV and how to get it up and running. The show was built in 1999 and had a studio setup with lots of TVs around. This is the biggest one and it states that it is 80 inches in the manual. I assume the brand could be Hitachi because that was one of the brands that CEC used back in the late 90's. But I do not know if it will receive HD signal because I never went back there and looked.
That's pretty interesting. Do you have any shots of the back or inside?
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post #13432 of 13452 Old 04-19-2018, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post
Greetings Bob,

Just checking what's going on with one of the largest threats.
I just coming from visiting my father in law where my former rear projection CRT Hitachi is. I did the 117 point convergence and it looks very good. It needs some mirror and guns cleaning by now but it sure looks nice.

On a different subject - Bob I sent you and email last week regarding the "Image Perfection Demo Disc", get back to me whenever you have a chance.

Greetings and Happy New Year to all.
I just saw this post Leo, have not been here for quite a while. For some reason AVS is no longer notifying me at my email when a new post happens, like it always did, and which I have check marked in my AVS settings.

Please resend me the email in question! Good to hear from you, Leo

Robert Jones
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post #13433 of 13452 Old 04-19-2018, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ry_cec View Post
I need help identifying a 80" CRT RPTV. I am a huge Chuck E. Cheese/Animatronics collector and I recently stumbled upon a weird RPTV in a closed Chuck E. Cheese. They supposedly rigged it up on to a platform and cut off the bottom half but I can tell that it is a full TV as it has AV inputs in the front. I am trying to figure out the brand of this TV and how to get it up and running. The show was built in 1999 and had a studio setup with lots of TVs around. This is the biggest one and it states that it is 80 inches in the manual. I assume the brand could be Hitachi because that was one of the brands that CEC used back in the late 90's. But I do not know if it will receive HD signal because I never went back there and looked.
It's a 4x3, so probably is not HD, but there were a few Mits in the 80" category that were HD before they went to an all 16x9 aspect ratio. I don't think Hitachi ever had an 80", so I doubt it's a Hit. Mit did, tho.

Need more pictures of it, esp. of its backside, if you can't get any of the controls on the front.

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post #13434 of 13452 Old 04-19-2018, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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AVS is not notifying me of new posts on this thread like it used to. Hasn't been for a couple years now, despite my having that option active. As such, I get busy with my life, and all that that entails. If I don't know something new is afoot here, I just don't remember to come here. As such, new posts languish here until I do remember.

If you want me to know there's a new post here you would like my eyes on, please email me at [email protected]. I'll hop right on it.

Thx

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post #13435 of 13452 Old 05-07-2018, 08:19 AM
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Greetings AVS members! I'm now the lucky owner of a Mit WS-65311. Previous owner put it up for free, just had to pick it up! It looks to be in pretty good shape from what I have gathered (contrast/brightness weren't cranked all the way up, no screen burn-in that I've noticed). Going through the forums and especially this thread has already made me realize how capable these CRTs still can be! Not to mention the benefit of a good calibration

I adjusted convergence through the main menu and have seen a noticeable increase in picture quality. However, I noticed that the blue crosshair was noticeably more 'fuzzy' along its edges than the red crosshair. I thought it would be prudent to solicit advice before spending time on the 64 point convergence (especially if I can sharpen up the blue crosshair!) I am wondering if a little mechanical adjustment to the blue lense would help focus the crosshair a bit, but I'll continue to scour the forums for information as well. Any thoughts? Thank you!
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post #13436 of 13452 Old 05-17-2018, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawshank888 View Post
Greetings AVS members! I'm now the lucky owner of a Mit WS-65311. Previous owner put it up for free, just had to pick it up! It looks to be in pretty good shape from what I have gathered (contrast/brightness weren't cranked all the way up, no screen burn-in that I've noticed). Going through the forums and especially this thread has already made me realize how capable these CRTs still can be! Not to mention the benefit of a good calibration

I adjusted convergence through the main menu and have seen a noticeable increase in picture quality. However, I noticed that the blue crosshair was noticeably more 'fuzzy' along its edges than the red crosshair. I thought it would be prudent to solicit advice before spending time on the 64 point convergence (especially if I can sharpen up the blue crosshair!) I am wondering if a little mechanical adjustment to the blue lense would help focus the crosshair a bit, but I'll continue to scour the forums for information as well. Any thoughts? Thank you!
Yes. Blue is always challenging to get right on focus, but it can be done.

There are 2 types of focus - mechanical and electrostatic. The blue electrostatic also affects the grayscale, so I would not go there uninformed.

For the mechanical, go to You Tube and search out my video on the Cantilever Technique. It's a staple in all my CRT calibrations. Usually I find 2 of the 3 lenses are out of focus, right out of the box. With this technique you can dial it in like nobody's business.

If you want private help on all aspects of the CRT calibration process - of which the ISF aspects of the calibration are critically important, yes, but very much in the minority on a CRT rear projection calibration - I am available for phone consultations.

First thing, tho, is to get your optics clean, so you'll have a depth-filled, transparent picture, like when she was new. Great blacks and transparent shadow detail, a picture full of dynamic punch - again, like when she was new. Not like now, which I am sure you will agree is pretty darn bleary. Be careful about those delicate inner surfaces, they can be damaged instantly and permanently with the wrong cleaning methods and materials. No going back once damaged.

I am available for all these things. Contact me -

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post #13437 of 13452 Old 05-17-2018, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I am going to be in the Portland OR and surrounding area from the 22nd of May till the 30th. Would love to rub shoulders with fellow CRT and OLED enthusiasts while there. Contact me and let's get together -

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post #13438 of 13452 Old 06-17-2018, 09:25 AM
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My WS 65813 and Audio

Still using my WS 65813.


I'm wondering if there is a sub menu that has audio equalization controls.
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post #13439 of 13452 Old 07-03-2018, 07:20 AM
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Two weeks and no reply.


Is this thread kaput?
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post #13440 of 13452 Old 07-04-2018, 03:34 AM
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Two weeks and no reply.


Is this thread kaput?
I have a feeling that over the past several years that most people who once subscribed to this thread have "unsubscribed" and thus aren't aware of new postings.


I retired my last CRT RPTV 5 years ago when I got my 80" Sharp LCD TV
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