Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 451 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13501 of 13504 Old 01-28-2020, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cpizzull View Post
Hey all! Loooong time and glad to see the thread is still surviving, ha!
.
So here's another one of those "it's so hard to say good-bye to my working elite posts". lol
.
My 20 yr old, yes, 20, Pro610, is still kicking strong, after my re-solder, a professional re-solder, and the other board replaced (all many moons ago). I am planning to possibly do one more lens cleaning (thx to a previous consultation with Mr. Bob) but the days are numbered for less than 365 I'm thinking. Why? Because I want an 82" QLED so bad. I love my Pro610 for movies, but let's face it, sports kinda suck compared to today's TVs and it's ONLY 58"!
.
The dilemma, of course, is the pain in trashing a perfectly working TV. Nobody wants these. Nobody. And with that, here's my search for advice...........
.
Because this thing will be incredibly difficult to get up the stairs, I'm leaning towards "taking it apart". One big reason is I would love to use the lacquered wood cabinet for some other project. I also have the matching rack but haven't decided what will happen with that. Anyway, has anyone gone down this path? Is there a true market for these parts at all, or is Mr. Bob (Hi Bob!) the only one that may want them still? Of course, I'm not down for paying for shipping anywhere. This is in St. Louis area, btw.
.
So there's my sad story. I'd love to hear any thoughts or encouragement, lol.
.
Thx for such a great thread all!
Chet
Is that because the games happen in the daytime and you want to have the shades open in your viewing room? If so then yes that is a challenge for CRT, which is designed for movie theater lighting conditions. And today's backlit LCDs can give you that bright picture for daytime use.

Keep in mind that whatever you get back in daytime shades-open viewing, you lose in night time movie viewing, where shadow detail is king. OLED is the only modality that really comes close to doing both, tho FALD - field array light dimming - gets close by all but turning off the backlighting in the darkest areas while leaving it alone in the regular-lit areas of your screen. Sets equipped with this are more expensive than other LCDs. And OLED is not designed to compete with backlit LCD sets in terms of overall light level, which can be blazing on rear-lit units.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out. Good to hear from you. I will send you the shipping for the PS board and remote when it's time to let go of her.

b

Robert Jones
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650-333-4808 cell
bob at imageperfection dot com
www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
YouTube channel: mrbobbigscreen


Last edited by Mr Bob; 01-28-2020 at 02:12 PM.
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post #13502 of 13504 Old 01-30-2020, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpizzull View Post
Hey all! Loooong time and glad to see the thread is still surviving, ha!
.
So here's another one of those "it's so hard to say good-bye to my working elite posts". lol
.
My 20 yr old, yes, 20, Pro610, is still kicking strong, after my re-solder, a professional re-solder, and the other board replaced (all many moons ago). I am planning to possibly do one more lens cleaning (thx to a previous consultation with Mr. Bob) but the days are numbered for less than 365 I'm thinking. Why? Because I want an 82" QLED so bad. I love my Pro610 for movies, but let's face it, sports kinda suck compared to today's TVs and it's ONLY 58"!
.
The dilemma, of course, is the pain in trashing a perfectly working TV. Nobody wants these. Nobody. And with that, here's my search for advice...........
.
Because this thing will be incredibly difficult to get up the stairs, I'm leaning towards "taking it apart". One big reason is I would love to use the lacquered wood cabinet for some other project. I also have the matching rack but haven't decided what will happen with that. Anyway, has anyone gone down this path? Is there a true market for these parts at all, or is Mr. Bob (Hi Bob!) the only one that may want them still? Of course, I'm not down for paying for shipping anywhere. This is in St. Louis area, btw.
.
So there's my sad story. I'd love to hear any thoughts or encouragement, lol.
.
Thx for such a great thread all!
Chet
You'd be surprised. I'm looking at an PRO-730HDI for $100, which seems like a steal to me, though I don't have any $ at the moment. If someone from (Eastern) Connecticut wants rid of their RPCRT, let me know please, I'll come get it.



All display tech since CRT has had motion blur. So those who don't want motion blur (gamers, sports fans, etc) are forced to choose between (tiny, expensive) strobed PC monitors and CRT, or waiting until they finally sort out blur on OLED. I'm assuming RPCRT, also being CRT tech, also has 0 motion blur.



I would shelf my Panasonic plasma for a CRT in a heartbeat, between the motion blur and it's 1024x768 with rectangular pixels, not 1080p as was advertised.

Last edited by SenileAnimal; 01-30-2020 at 08:22 PM.
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post #13503 of 13504 Old 02-06-2020, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SenileAnimal View Post
All display tech since CRT has had motion blur. So those who don't want motion blur (gamers, sports fans, etc) are forced to choose between (tiny, expensive) strobed PC monitors and CRT, or waiting until they finally sort out blur on OLED. I'm assuming RPCRT, also being CRT tech, also has 0 motion blur.
RPCRT, like direct view CRT TVs, does not have any motion blur.


I've played many a NES, SMS, SNES, GENESIS, PS1, Dreamcast, and PS2 on various RPCRTs and the experience was just wonderful.


Only thing you have to remember to do is clean the dust off of the tubes, and sometimes the "mirror", in the back of the TV from time to time.


Also, if the occasional spider makes it's lair in there or dies in there, you gotta clean him or her out too.

Sony XBR-75X950G, Denon AVR-X2300W, Polk CS20 Center, Polk Monitor 75T Fronts, Polk TSI300 Rears, Power Sound Audio S1500 Subwoofer.
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post #13504 of 13504 Old 02-11-2020, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Actually optics cleaning is more serious than that. And absolutely critical to the transparency of the images in RPCRT.

The mirror is a front surface mirror, and ALL glass FS mirrors in RPCRT should be thoroughly cleaned every year without fail, the deeper optics down inside the unit every few years on most brands. Don't use anything involving ammonia because the surfaces being cleaned are NOT glass, for the mirrors it's the mirroring surface and for the lenses it's plastic. I use Glass Plus and Sprayway. Or Windex without ammonia.

And the towels used must be absorbent, which leaves out microfiber immediately. Leaves all sorts of residue. And blue shop towels which have lanolin in them. Nothing ever goes away and becomes fully clean with those 2.

Mylar mirrors like those used in the 73" Mits should be left alone aside from being blown with compressed air. They scratch like nobody's business when cleaned in any normal kind of way.

The lenses are made of plastic and must not be pressed upon forcefully. They are not glass and will easily score and scratch, and that's permanent damage.

RPCRT has 28 optical surfaces, 10 of which on the typical set get absolutely filthy. The images have to get thru all those 28 surfaces in the projection path to get from the CRT faces to the viewscreen. After a few years of getting dirty without ever being cleaned, your picture then takes on a bleary appearance which makes your set look worn out. Nothing could be further from the truth. The 3 optical pathways (red, green and blue) are simply being compromised like you would not believe.

I have been instructing owners on how to SAFELY clean their RPCRT optics for over 20 years, usually by phone. The difference between fully clean optics vs. years and years' worth of accumulated soot, grime and airborne dust, lint and powder - all drawn to the surfaces in there by the static cling of the high voltage - is absolutely staggering. I cleaned my optics on my Mit Saturday for the Oscars Sunday, and she looks as fresh and new as the day I unboxed her in 2006.

Robert Jones
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Last edited by Mr Bob; 02-11-2020 at 01:28 PM.
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