2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 502 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15031 of 15052 Old 12-22-2017, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z2smith View Post
Has anyone been able to locate a suitable replacement for these since it appears they are no longer being produced? It looks like Luminus still makes this type of LED but without proper specifications there is no way to tell if they would work or not. My Red LED finally bit the dust a few days ago. Gonna miss the ol TV if I can't find the parts.

I should mention, I have look on ebay.com and see there is a seller with one for sale that is dramatically marked up, which I may end up buying if it is the only option left.
"Dramatically marked up"? I hope you are not referring to the RED LEDs that I have for sale on eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16281206321...84.m1555.l2649
These TVs do not just fall down from the sky or something I go out and buy them.
I buy anything that is within a 200 mile radius of D.C. and part them out on eBay.
For every one that I buy that would have ended up in a landfill it allows more than one TV to keep
working and stay out of the landfill.
When you list a RED LED for sale and it sells within a day it must be a fair price.
If the price was too high then people would not buy them.
If I do not make any money doing this I might as well not bother. It's not as though I am getting rich, it's
just a few bucks too supplement my social security.

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post #15032 of 15052 Old 12-29-2017, 10:31 AM
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3D Movies

I have the --89S and Panasonic DMP-BDT320 Blu-Ray player and Samsung SSG-2100AB 3D glasses but cannot seem to figure out how to watch 3D movies. Can anyone point me to step by step instructions?
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post #15033 of 15052 Old 12-29-2017, 11:22 AM
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My 6187s is now having the problem where it takes about 45-60 seconds for my TV to start up when it is first turned on. I get a lot of "Searching for signal" then the picture will show up, flash pink, then "searching for signal" appears again. Over and over this happens until the TV has warmed up, then it is fine. Is there something that I can replace to fix this, or should I just assume my time with this set is coming to an end? Once the set comes on after a minute everything is fine.
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post #15034 of 15052 Old 12-29-2017, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechia View Post
I have the --89S and Panasonic DMP-BDT320 Blu-Ray player and Samsung SSG-2100AB 3D glasses but cannot seem to figure out how to watch 3D movies. Can anyone point me to step by step instructions?
It has been a while for me watching 3D on this set, but I think your problem is incompatible glasses. I checked and the model you have says they are compatible with these sets:
Quote:
Compatible Models
2010 LCD C750 series
2010 LED C7000, C8000 and C9000 series
2010 PDP C7000 and C8000 series
2010 Blu-ray Disc player (BD-C6900) / HTiB (HT-C6930W)
The 6189S is not listed, therefor they do not work with this set. You need DLP Link glasses for these sets such as UltraClear (OR Optoma) DLP Link 3D glasses. Make sure you set the output on the BluRay to checkerboard. You should be able to see it working when you hit the 3D button on the TV remote. From memory the picture will look blurry and reddish without glasses. When you put them on it looks 3D and fine after the 3D glasses and TV sync.
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post #15035 of 15052 Old 12-29-2017, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post
My 6187s is now having the problem where it takes about 45-60 seconds for my TV to start up when it is first turned on. I get a lot of "Searching for signal" then the picture will show up, flash pink, then "searching for signal" appears again. Over and over this happens until the TV has warmed up, then it is fine. Is there something that I can replace to fix this, or should I just assume my time with this set is coming to an end? Once the set comes on after a minute everything is fine.
Is it a SX or a SAX? either way I have what you need to fix it, mainboard.
PM me if you are interested.

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post #15036 of 15052 Old 01-02-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by stanman2242 View Post
Is it a SX or a SAX? either way I have what you need to fix it, mainboard.
PM me if you are interested.
I'm seeing the same issue over the last few days, on the HDMI inputs, especially the satellite (DirecTV) receiver. I guess eventually, it won't handshake at all? A brand new main board runs a little north of $200, with a 4-6 week wait (special order).
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post #15037 of 15052 Old 03-17-2018, 11:45 AM
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So I was playing a game the other day and noticed a bunch of beige/white dots on the screen. I had guessed almost immediately that the DLP chip was on the way out and subsequent research seems to indicate that is true. I've been in the market for a 4K TV upstairs for a while, but I wanted to check how much the DLP chip would cost to replace. Unsurprisingly, they seem to go for $250+, so I think my fine run with this TV is almost over.

I may just post on the neighborhood forum to see if anyone wants it as is however, but I wanted to check if anyone had a good source for the particular part that I'd need for my HLT6189S set at a better rate. At least that way I can point folks to the right place if they wanna attempt the repair.
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post #15038 of 15052 Old 03-18-2018, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slaine View Post
So I was playing a game the other day and noticed a bunch of beige/white dots on the screen. I had guessed almost immediately that the DLP chip was on the way out and subsequent research seems to indicate that is true. I've been in the market for a 4K TV upstairs for a while, but I wanted to check how much the DLP chip would cost to replace. Unsurprisingly, they seem to go for $250+, so I think my fine run with this TV is almost over.

I may just post on the neighborhood forum to see if anyone wants it as is however, but I wanted to check if anyone had a good source for the particular part that I'd need for my HLT6189S set at a better rate. At least that way I can point folks to the right place if they wanna attempt the repair.
Slaine,

The dots are caused by a hinge breaking on a pixel's mirror. The loose mirror then bounces around on the chip, breaking off other mirrors. It is a chain reaction that causes the dots to increase in number exponentially. If a buyer does not understand that the dots will greatly increase in number and at an ever increasing rate of new ones appearing they will not be happy with their purchase. Even with full disclosure you are very likely to get a return from a very dissatisfied neighbor.
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post #15039 of 15052 Old 03-18-2018, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post
Slaine,

The dots are caused by a hinge breaking on a pixel's mirror. The loose mirror then bounces around on the chip, breaking off other mirrors. It is a chain reaction that causes the dots to increase in number exponentially. If a buyer does not understand that the dots will greatly increase in number and at an ever increasing rate of new ones appearing they will not be happy with their purchase. Even with full disclosure you are very likely to get a return from a very dissatisfied neighbor.
I'm talking about giving the set away, not trying to sell it. I'll disclose the issue fully, explain the repair options and then see if anyone if up for a repair challenge. If not, off to the local electronics recycling center she goes.
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post #15040 of 15052 Old 03-18-2018, 10:46 PM
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Slaine: I sent you a PM

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post #15041 of 15052 Old 05-04-2018, 08:12 PM
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Well, my trusty 11 year old HLT is acting funky today. It keeps turning itself back on after I turn it off. The first time I thought it was a fluke, but then it kept doing it. Within 30 seconds of turning it off, I'd hear the tones of the set turning itself back on. Then tonight it stopped. ....Maybe it's just possessed. lol
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post #15042 of 15052 Old 05-06-2018, 07:04 PM
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Slaine: I sent you a PM


Sorry, just saw this now. Never did get a pm though.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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post #15043 of 15052 Old 07-16-2018, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Slaine View Post
Sorry, just saw this now. Never did get a pm though.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I have a number of people with questions about the BP96-01726B or the BP96-01726A power
supply and for some reason I do not get the notification without a big delay or not at all.
I would not want to show my gmail address here but if you can't get in touch with me you might
take a guess at it.
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post #15044 of 15052 Old 09-22-2018, 06:55 PM
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I apologize if this has already been addressed, but this is a rather large thread. Anyway, I've own a HL-T5087S for 11 years and it worked perfectly until pixels started to die a couple years ago. I ordered a new DMD chip from ShopJimmy and installed it without issue. After that, my DLP worked flawlessly until last week when the color went all wonky and the set abruptly shut off. I was able to turn it back on, but I immediately noticed that there was no blue in the picture. I've seen a few accounts online of LEDs dying in these TVs, so I figure that's what's going on in my case. ShopJimmy sells the LEDS for about $70 each, which is great. I'm sure I can do the replacement, but I wanted to check here first to see if anyone has done an LED replacement on this TV and how difficult it was. Also, is there anything else that might cause one LED to go out besides the LED itself? I don't want to get into a money pit situation here. I know the TV is getting old, but if I can fully repair it for just $70 I'd be crazy not to.
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post #15045 of 15052 Old 09-22-2018, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dhectorg View Post
I apologize if this has already been addressed, but this is a rather large thread. Anyway, I've own a HL-T5087S for 11 years and it worked perfectly until pixels started to die a couple years ago. I ordered a new DMD chip from ShopJimmy and installed it without issue. After that, my DLP worked flawlessly until last week when the color went all wonky and the set abruptly shut off. I was able to turn it back on, but I immediately noticed that there was no blue in the picture. I've seen a few accounts online of LEDs dying in these TVs, so I figure that's what's going on in my case. ShopJimmy sells the LEDS for about $70 each, which is great. I'm sure I can do the replacement, but I wanted to check here first to see if anyone has done an LED replacement on this TV and how difficult it was. Also, is there anything else that might cause one LED to go out besides the LED itself? I don't want to get into a money pit situation here. I know the TV is getting old, but if I can fully repair it for just $70 I'd be crazy not to.
Hi, having picture without blue is normally the blue LED but you described other things that makes me wonder.
Before you order a blue LED, make sure yours is bad.
It could be your LED Driver board or something else.
Slide the Light Engine out a few inches and disconnect the blue and white cable from the blue LED.
Take a good 9 volt battery and touch it to the terminals of the LED.
The + side of battery should go on the right terminal of LED, the one that had white wire on it.
You will see a small blue dot in the middle of lens if LED is working.
It is not bright so you need to get so you can actually see middle of lens.
If it is not working then you can feel safe ordering one, if not get back to me and we can figure out what it is.

I just looked and Jimmy does not have it in stock, he has not had them in a long time.
You can look me up on eBay if you need one but I only have one left right now.
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post #15046 of 15052 Old 09-22-2018, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by stanman2242 View Post
Hi, having picture without blue is normally the blue LED but you described other things that makes me wonder.
Before you order a blue LED, make sure yours is bad.
It could be your LED Driver board or something else.
Slide the Light Engine out a few inches and disconnect the blue and white cable from the blue LED.
Take a good 9 volt battery and touch it to the terminals of the LED.
The + side of battery should go on the right terminal of LED, the one that had white wire on it.
You will see a small blue dot in the middle of lens if LED is working.
It is not bright so you need to get so you can actually see middle of lens.
If it is not working then you can feel safe ordering one, if not get back to me and we can figure out what it is.

I just looked and Jimmy does not have it in stock, he has not had them in a long time.
You can look me up on eBay if you need one but I only have one left right now.

Thanks for the quick reply! I don't have a 9-volt on hand but I'll pick one up tomorrow and try that test.
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post #15047 of 15052 Old 12-25-2018, 07:45 AM
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Ah, Christmas morning surprises. Our trusty HLT-6189S has been relegated to the game room for the last year or so, connected only to an XBoxOne for the kids. Christmas morning, and a couple new games, and the set won't turn on. LED blinks a number of times, then back to standby. Think I'm going to order up some CAPs for the sub board, and give that a shot ($20 and a couple hours is worth the attempt).
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post #15048 of 15052 Old 12-25-2018, 10:14 AM
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Ah, Christmas morning surprises. Our trusty HLT-6189S has been relegated to the game room for the last year or so, connected only to an XBoxOne for the kids. Christmas morning, and a couple new games, and the set won't turn on. LED blinks a number of times, then back to standby. Think I'm going to order up some CAPs for the sub board, and give that a shot ($20 and a couple hours is worth the attempt).
Hi, Replace the 5 caps with 2200 @ 35 volt caps and most important replace the 450 volt cap
even if it looks ok.
Don't bother testing any of them, just replace them.
On the 450 volt cap many times I find one of the pins burned off but you do not notice it
because cap is glued down on board.
This large cap sometimes has "eyelets" going through board and sometimes it does not.
Either way the connection is a cause of problems.
Even though there is what looks like a good solder connection the eyelet itself can crack loose from board.
Without the eyelets the solder itself can crack.
It does not look pretty but what I do is fold the lead of the new cap over and make a redundant connection to a place near the hole.
That should fix it if it does not PM me and I will further go into problems with this board.
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post #15049 of 15052 Old 01-17-2019, 06:07 PM
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Hi, Replace the 5 caps with 2200 @ 35 volt caps and most important replace the 450 volt cap
even if it looks ok.
Don't bother testing any of them, just replace them.
On the 450 volt cap many times I find one of the pins burned off but you do not notice it
because cap is glued down on board.
This large cap sometimes has "eyelets" going through board and sometimes it does not.
Either way the connection is a cause of problems.
Even though there is what looks like a good solder connection the eyelet itself can crack loose from board.
Without the eyelets the solder itself can crack.
It does not look pretty but what I do is fold the lead of the new cap over and make a redundant connection to a place near the hole.
That should fix it if it does not PM me and I will further go into problems with this board.
Got the caps replaced, and still doesn't power up. about 10 blinks of the green LED, pause, then another 10 blinks of the green LED, then nothing. Anyone ever seen these symptoms, and was there a fix?
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post #15050 of 15052 Old 01-17-2019, 07:16 PM
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Got the caps replaced, and still doesn't power up. about 10 blinks of the green LED, pause, then another 10 blinks of the green LED, then nothing. Anyone ever seen these symptoms, and was there a fix?
At this point try replacing the 47uf 50v capacitor shown in the picture and then check your voltage again and see if you now have 15.9 to 16.0 volts DC at the grey cable.
If that does not work try the 68uf capacitor.
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post #15051 of 15052 Old 01-27-2019, 01:45 AM
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Over 40,000 hours on my set and it's still going. Original LED's too. The only thing I replaced was the DLP chip about 5 or 6 years ago..
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post #15052 of 15052 Old 06-21-2019, 07:59 AM
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Hey all, my HLT6187S is still alive and kicking. The only thing i have replaced is the DLP Chip back in January 2013. Its still our main TV and its on ALL day long thanks to the kids.

The problem i have had lately is it is slow to respond when you first power it on after being off overnight. It powers up, and the screen comes on but none of the buttons work (including the power button) for about 3-4 minutes (from the buttons or the remote). Sometimes it never seems to respond so i have to unplug it completely and plug it back in to "kick start" it. I had to setup a dedicated power strip for the TV so the kids can just flip the power strip switch off and on vs them unplugging it. Any idea where to start to troubleshoot this?

Last edited by PY_; 06-21-2019 at 08:37 AM.
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