BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 371 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11101 of 12131 Old 03-30-2015, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syvmn View Post
I thought I would post my 2.4:1 W1070 setup to this thread in the off chance someone might find it interesting.

I had the perfect spot in my basement of my new house for a 2.4:1 screen. Unfortunately the common "solution" was to get a CIH lens that would go over the front of the projector to stretch the image when I wanted 2.4:1 and then move out of the way when I wanted 16:9. Those lenses cost a LOT of money and were totally out of the question.

Unfortunately the W1070 does not have enough zoom to display both native 2.4:1 and 16:9 on the same screen when mounted in a fixed position. I decided to make things overly complicated and constructed a sliding projector mount that allows me to move the projector enough to view both on my screen for ~$0 cost.

I just finished everything up yesterday and have been really enjoying the outcome. Please ignore the "paint" job on the mount. I got a defective can of paint and will be refinishing it at a later time. Also ignore all of the cords everywhere. I set things up for a quick test run, not as a final solution.

Testing my frame.


Finished 2.4:1 screen.


2.4:1 Guardians of the Galaxy test. Note that there is a window letting light into the room just off to the right of the picture. This was taken about an hour ago (4PM).


Position of projector in 2.4:1 mode.


Elf in 16:9.


Projector in 16x9 mode.
Excellent set up...

Ralph
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post #11102 of 12131 Old 03-31-2015, 04:35 AM
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Guys, i have noticed a weird issue with my benq w1070, not a problem at all, but i wonder if this is normal. I have my PJ ceiling mounted, with pj position ceiling in the menu, when i switch it to front in the settings(the image shifts upside down, as it is ceiling mounted), the projector runs quieter, is this normal? Any1 can test this? Just change projector position in the menu and let it run for two minutes, is it a bit louder in ceiling and quieter in front mode? Thank you!
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post #11103 of 12131 Old 03-31-2015, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunadan84 View Post
Sorry for quoting myself but I could not find the edit button
I just wanted to say that I reinstalled 1.08 successfully but the problem is still there. So, I guess the only way I have to fix it is to downgrade the firmware but I am not sure if it is possible. Any of you guys have done it successfully?

Thanks in advance!
What if it's only a connection Problem between the HDMI Plug and the socket?

There was a Design mistake from Benq at the Case of the PJ, the HDMI sockets are not flush with the case, they are a little bit inside the Case so some HDMI Cable Plugs won't get in far enough.

Try a cheap HDMI Cable, cut the plug with a knife that it can fit deeper into the Case deeper into the socket.

greetings Auric
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post #11104 of 12131 Old 03-31-2015, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auric View Post
What if it's only a connection Problem between the HDMI Plug and the socket?

There was a Design mistake from Benq at the Case of the PJ, the HDMI sockets are not flush with the case, they are a little bit inside the Case so some HDMI Cable Plugs won't get in far enough.

Try a cheap HDMI Cable, cut the plug with a knife that it can fit deeper into the Case deeper into the socket.

greetings Auric
Thanks a lot for your help! I had no idea of that issue. I will try what you suggested but I am afraid it will be related to the firmware instead of the HW as it worked fine with the previous one (1.02) using the same connectors
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post #11105 of 12131 Old 04-01-2015, 11:07 AM
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mines at 2500 hours and still looking good. bought last june, hoping I can get about 2 years out of each lamp.
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post #11106 of 12131 Old 04-01-2015, 11:31 AM
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two questions before moving in at the end of the month:

If I wanted to try out two different image sizes before deciding on a screen, should I just get two different lengths of threaded pipe to connect the ceiling mount? Maybe just start with the correct length for the larger image and I might not need to buy the other size at all.

The walls are currently a light beige, but I picked out a charcoal for the screen wall ( http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home...products&p=PS0 ). Can the 1070 project a decent image on dark grey or am I better off waiting to paint that wall?
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post #11107 of 12131 Old 04-01-2015, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pitpat View Post
two questions before moving in at the end of the month:

If I wanted to try out two different image sizes before deciding on a screen, should I just get two different lengths of threaded pipe to connect the ceiling mount? Maybe just start with the correct length for the larger image and I might not need to buy the other size at all.

The walls are currently a light beige, but I picked out a charcoal for the screen wall ( http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home...products&p=PS0 ). Can the 1070 project a decent image on dark grey or am I better off waiting to paint that wall?
Just a quick answer to your questions.

1. Use PVC Pipe with threaded end caps it is much easier to cut/change length and just as strong.

2. You can project on any color wall but it will influence color, grey is somewhat neutral but keep in mind the darker it is the duller the picture.
If this is temp while choosing your screen size should be fine.

Cheers
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post #11108 of 12131 Old 04-01-2015, 03:37 PM
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Guys, i did a detailed side by side comparison with my 65 inch Panny plasma (had both displays running same content at the same time)

I tested SD, HDTV, Bluray etc. For me it is only in the dark scenes where the 1070 falls short, really can't see what is going on anywhere near as clearly on the plasma. to combat this, i've customised my User 2 settings purely for dark scenes (increased brightness and contrast a bit and gamma at 2.2)

Definitely helps and can change the setting with one button just for dark scenes in movies

Not ideal i know but oh well, nothing's perfect

With regular content, the 1070 rocks !
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post #11109 of 12131 Old 04-01-2015, 05:12 PM
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are there known good calibration settings for the 1.08 firmware?

Sony XBR-85X900F & XBR-85X850D | BenQ W1070 | Sony XBR-60LX900 | Denon X4200W & X3200W | Infinity Primus PC351, P363s, P163s
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post #11110 of 12131 Old 04-02-2015, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolling01 View Post
Anyone using a lumagen with the w1070 and if so how much of an improvement does it make?
cheers
Well, for starters, it's kind of strange of having a video processor that costs much more than the actual projector itself.
Usually the target group that will buy a w1070 won't even know what Lumagen is and people who do know, will not buy w1070.

BUT, I'm not one of them! I'm currently updating my HT in my living room and I'm perfectly happy with my 2 year old Benq w1070, but I'm about to buy a Lumagen mini 3d.

There are various reasons, that I go with buying a Lumagen first instead of a better PJ, but either way, as soon as I have the Lumagen in my hands and get a professional to calibrate my PJ again, I'll let you know about the difference in PQ.
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post #11111 of 12131 Old 04-02-2015, 07:26 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syvmn View Post
I thought I would post my 2.4:1 W1070 setup to this thread in the off chance someone might find it interesting.
Great work man! I remember posting in your thread a while back asking for placement advice, it seems this forum managed to help a brotha out! Congratz.

You can upgrade your setup too to use an anamorphic lens of the VC type eventually. I got a Runco Whitney that works great with the w1070, for under a grand but if you're lucky you can find a good deal.
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post #11112 of 12131 Old 04-02-2015, 06:19 PM
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I have another interesting question

the advanced hdmi setting

If my source is a movie played with Powerdvd on my HTPC, should it be a video signal or a PC signal ?
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post #11113 of 12131 Old 04-02-2015, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterpack View Post
I have another interesting question
the advanced hdmi setting
If my source is a movie played with Powerdvd on my HTPC, should it be a video signal or a PC signal ?
It depends if the PC output is set for full0-255 or limited16-235..one fairly easy way to see which setting to use is by setting the projector's brightness to 51 or 52, pausing on a darker scene of a video, then switching between "video" and "PC". One will either crush dark shadows into black or bring blacks up to noticeably grey while the other will look nearly perfect by compare. The one that looks good is the one you want.

Or you can check your HTPC's graphic settings for that output..see if it's set for full or limited (full should match with PC while limited should match with video).

Usually a PC will default to full, but some will default to limited when HDMI output is used with certain sources..some may even change depending on the videoplayer. This is why simply pausing a video, setting brightness to 51-52 and switching the advancedHDMI setting back and forth is sometimes the best way despite being a little goofy.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 04-02-2015 at 07:41 PM.
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post #11114 of 12131 Old 04-02-2015, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfdrifter View Post
There are various reasons, that I go with buying a Lumagen first instead of a better PJ, but either way, as soon as I have the Lumagen in my hands and get a professional to calibrate my PJ again, I'll let you know about the difference in PQ.


Ok cheers look forward to your thoughts.
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post #11115 of 12131 Old 04-05-2015, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
It depends if the PC output is set for full0-255 or limited16-235..one fairly easy way to see which setting to use is by setting the projector's brightness to 51 or 52, pausing on a darker scene of a video, then switching between "video" and "PC". One will either crush dark shadows into black or bring blacks up to noticeably grey while the other will look nearly perfect by compare. The one that looks good is the one you want.

Or you can check your HTPC's graphic settings for that output..see if it's set for full or limited (full should match with PC while limited should match with video).

Usually a PC will default to full, but some will default to limited when HDMI output is used with certain sources..some may even change depending on the videoplayer. This is why simply pausing a video, setting brightness to 51-52 and switching the advancedHDMI setting back and forth is sometimes the best way despite being a little goofy.
thanks for the reply

I have a Nvidia card

I can choose either RGB with full or limited OR ycbcr444

is ycbcr444 better than RGB full ?

i have tried both and can't tell too much difference. They are both better than RGB limited
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post #11116 of 12131 Old 04-06-2015, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterpack View Post
thanks for the reply

I have a Nvidia card

I can choose either RGB with full or limited OR ycbcr444

is ycbcr444 better than RGB full ?

i have tried both and can't tell too much difference. They are both better than RGB limited
I'd think it would be, but don't know..good question.
I personally only have full/limited to choose from and most of the content I watch is 720p and compressed into pancakes.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #11117 of 12131 Old 04-07-2015, 09:16 AM
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Ok i have a w1070, and a peerless adjustable celing mount it can drop it as low as 21".
My ceiling is 10ft, my screen is a 16:9 100" electric screen , and the entire length of the room is 14'. I have been doing some estimating and calculations and it seems I am going to have to have the bottom of the screen like 49" off the floor which is nuts!

I would love to drop the screen and my 70" sharp thats mounted on the wall behind it. With the projector at about 8.5' back and dropped exactly 21" lower than the 10' ceiling, is that possible to lower it and the projector handle that? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated

drawings (some walls are invisible )
Red box is of course projector...


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post #11118 of 12131 Old 04-07-2015, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevan5150 View Post
Ok i have a w1070, and a peerless adjustable celing mount it can drop it as low as 21".
My ceiling is 10ft, my screen is a 16:9 100" electric screen , and the entire length of the room is 14'. I have been doing some estimating and calculations and it seems I am going to have to have the bottom of the screen like 49" off the floor which is nuts!

I would love to drop the screen and my 70" sharp thats mounted on the wall behind it. With the projector at about 8.5' back and dropped exactly 21" lower than the 10' ceiling, is that possible to lower it and the projector handle that? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated

drawings (some walls are invisible )
Red box is of course projector...


I would suggest buying a longer drop pipe for the Peerless mount and attaching a box to the wall and the screen to the box rather than the ceiling. The W1070 lens needs to be no more than 6" above the top of the image on screen. Given that a 100" screen is only 49" tall, it should have the bottom no more than 20" off the floor, the top of the image at 69" and the projector lens no more than 75".

Since you have a second row (which for a 100" screen is ridiculous IMO), you may need to have the screen higher just so the back row can see the bottom over the heads of those in front and don't have the projector hanging quite so low in their peripheral vision.

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post #11119 of 12131 Old 04-09-2015, 01:37 AM
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Anyone else find that the picture is better after the projector has been running for a while ? (say an hour)
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post #11120 of 12131 Old 04-09-2015, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
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Anyone else find that the picture is better after the projector has been running for a while ? (say an hour)
Yes, but I would not say an hour. I think it has more to do with lamp warmup and then your eyes adjusting. When we go to watch a movie I normally have the pj on about 1/2 hour or so before.
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post #11121 of 12131 Old 04-09-2015, 11:06 AM
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As my old Optoma aged I got in the habit of starting 30 minutes before watching because it would start so dim. Now start the BenQ a few minutes early. By the time a movie is picked (off the shelf or streaming) and everyone gets seated and settled, looks consistent the rest of the night.

Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?
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post #11122 of 12131 Old 04-09-2015, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterpack View Post
Anyone else find that the picture is better after the projector has been running for a while ? (say an hour)
It takes mine 5 minutes to 10 minutes for the colors to be right, but not more than that. Before then the colors are decidedly greenish and dim. It is definitely lamp warmup being controlled by the electronics to be as gentle with the lamp as possible and extend lamp life.

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post #11123 of 12131 Old 04-09-2015, 03:48 PM
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yeah it may not be an hour, that's just when i noticed the difference
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post #11124 of 12131 Old 04-09-2015, 04:12 PM
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Anyway after having this great projector for almost 2 weeks now, overall i couldn't be happier. I'm lucky in that i haven't been 'projector spoilt'. My last experience probably 10 years ago before HD projectors and probably with a 300 lumens projector i borrowed from work

for HD sport it's great, lovely vibrant colors, motion is good

TV and movies are overall excellent

It really does feel like a large HDTV

I feel this projector only falls short with detail in dark scenes and i have tried all the tips and tricks to improve this (checked my color space on my HTPC, changed hdmi to PC, played around with brightness, constrast and gamma etc)

e,g, last part of Edge of Tommorrow

Having said that, i rewatched the same scenes on my Plasma and they were pretty dark on that too

You really can't expect everything on an entry level projector, this baby really delivers

I can see myself upgrading when the bulb is due to be changed, only because i now have the 'projector bug'
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post #11125 of 12131 Old 04-10-2015, 08:28 PM
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Can anyone with access to the benq ftp sites drop me a login plz by pm? Cheers.

Sent from my HTC One M8x using Tapatalk.
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post #11126 of 12131 Old 04-10-2015, 10:23 PM
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I just got my W1070 in the mail. I watched blu rays, netflix and a few other things at 130" and the best thing?... NO FLASHLIGHTING... Blacks aren't incredible, but better than my LED tv!

So stoked about this projector right now... I'll take photos tomorrow during the day and again at night. Super pumped on projectors now...

I do feel like I am missing clearmotion though xD
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post #11127 of 12131 Old 04-11-2015, 04:59 AM
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Have a problem. Just tried turning it on and the lamp light is solid red and the PJ won't turn on. It's only 3 months old. Thoughts?

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post #11128 of 12131 Old 04-11-2015, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgstewar View Post
Have a problem. Just tried turning it on and the lamp light is solid red and the PJ won't turn on. It's only 3 months old. Thoughts?

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
Call Benq for a warranty return.

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post #11129 of 12131 Old 04-11-2015, 11:29 PM
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There isn't a lamp power button on the remote is there ?

I can't believe there isn't one !
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post #11130 of 12131 Old 04-11-2015, 11:32 PM
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BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterpack View Post
There isn't a lamp power button on the remote is there ?

I can't believe there isn't one !

Irritatingly, the old, barely-functional non-backlit remote had a dedicated button for this - but the new, fancy back-lit one (that ships with all current models) doesn't.

You can still use the dedicated 'User 1' and 'User 2' profile buttons on the new remote to achieve this by having them both set the same, just with different lamp power modes: so there's still a way to achieve this, I guess.

I have one for Day, and the other for Night, with lamp power (SmartEco and Eco respectively) being the only difference between them.

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