BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 401 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12001 of 12127 Old 08-07-2017, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Came across this video and thought I'd share.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPQd_Lz_78Q

I had thought about putting a Peltier cooler on the air intake, but not simply a monstrous heatsink on the lamp module.

thanks for sharing; unfortunately I have my short throw on a stand in front of me so it wouldn't work but it's an interesting idea!
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post #12002 of 12127 Old 08-15-2017, 05:22 AM
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FYI to anyone reading this thread, I was able to fix this by adjusting the brightness and contrast until I hit the right combination and the snow was 99% gone.
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post #12003 of 12127 Old 08-17-2017, 08:18 PM
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I went to start my BenQ w1070 today and every time I turned it on, the power light would blink green twice and then orange once and not power on. I then unplugged the projector and waited a minute. When I plugged it back in the power light is solid red. The Projector won't turn on. I read that it's in "Download Mode" but I wasn't able to get DLP Composer to recognize it connected via USB.

Has anyone else seen this? Unplugging and plugging back in has not fixed it either, as it remains in the same state.
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post #12004 of 12127 Old 08-17-2017, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by wasntme View Post
I went to start my BenQ w1070 today and every time I turned it on, the power light would blink green twice and then orange once and not power on. I then unplugged the projector and waited a minute. When I plugged it back in the power light is solid red. The Projector won't turn on. I read that it's in "Download Mode" but I wasn't able to get DLP Composer to recognize it connected via USB.

Has anyone else seen this? Unplugging and plugging back in has not fixed it either, as it remains in the same state.
I have not seen that, but do you still have a previous lamp that worked but you replaced just due to hours or dimness ? I would try swapping lamps. If you don't have a spare, buy a cheap $40 lamp from Amazon just to see if that works and to have as a spare. If a different lamp behaves the same way, then it is likely the power supply board or lamp ballast board and those are both several hundred bucks to repair.

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post #12005 of 12127 Old 08-17-2017, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
I have not seen that, but do you still have a previous lamp that worked but you replaced just due to hours or dimness ? I would try swapping lamps. If you don't have a spare, buy a cheap $40 lamp from Amazon just to see if that works and to have as a spare. If a different lamp behaves the same way, then it is likely the power supply board or lamp ballast board and those are both several hundred bucks to repair.
Unfortunately I don't have an old lamp. My old one exploded. I think I am going to take it a apart and see if anything is loose. If it all checks out, I might end up having to buy a new one. I got this one over 4 years ago, so it got some good use. This sucks....
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post #12006 of 12127 Old 08-17-2017, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by wasntme View Post
Unfortunately I don't have an old lamp. My old one exploded. I think I am going to take it a apart and see if anything is loose. If it all checks out, I might end up having to buy a new one. I got this one over 4 years ago, so it got some good use. This sucks....
Benq will charge you $65 to check it out. A $40 lamp to test with may be worth a shot. If you take it apart, what will you be looking for ?

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post #12007 of 12127 Old 08-17-2017, 09:39 PM
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Benq will charge you $65 to check it out. A $40 lamp to test with may be worth a shot. If you take it apart, what will you be looking for ?
I looked for loose cables since I took it apart a couple weeks ago to clean it/replace the lamp housing (I saw nothing bad when I took it apart and had the same results when it all came back together). BenQ will charge $65 plus shipping, which kinda stinks. I couldn't expect more than that though. I think I might just bite the bullet on the HT2050.
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post #12008 of 12127 Old 08-17-2017, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasntme View Post
I looked for loose cables since I took it apart a couple weeks ago to clean it/replace the lamp housing (I saw nothing bad when I took it apart and had the same results when it all came back together). BenQ will charge $65 plus shipping, which kinda stinks. I couldn't expect more than that though. I think I might just bite the bullet on the HT2050.
If you do replace it, let me know before you just trashcan the W1070. I have a dead power supply in my W1070 and would be willing to buy it for parts. Where are you located and about how many hours were on the lamp that is in it ? A low hours lamp would be worth something to me, even if I can't find the parts I need to make mine work.

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post #12009 of 12127 Old 08-17-2017, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
If you do replace it, let me know before you just trashcan the W1070. I have a dead power supply in my W1070 and would be willing to buy it for parts. Where are you located and about how many hours were on the lamp that is in it ? A low hours lamp would be worth something to me, even if I can't find the parts I need to make mine work.
Sent you a PM.
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post #12010 of 12127 Old 11-19-2017, 08:28 AM
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I have good tip for owners. A few months back I was tinkering with settings on my HT1075. In the HDMI settings there are two settings PC and Video. When I switched to PC I could see way more shadow detail and no more clipping which always kinda bothered me. Contrast was slightly worse but not bad but that might be because my lamp has 7300 hrs


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post #12011 of 12127 Old 01-14-2018, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bix26 View Post
I have good tip for owners. A few months back I was tinkering with settings on my HT1075. In the HDMI settings there are two settings PC and Video. When I switched to PC I could see way more shadow detail and no more clipping which always kinda bothered me. Contrast was slightly worse but not bad but that might be because my lamp has 7300 hrs


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It's Full RGB vs Limited, PC is Full and video is Limited. The projector usually switches between them automatically depending on the signal. For instance, having a PS4 connected to it, it'll (or should) switch to PC/Full RGB when playing games, and switch to Video/Limited when playing a Blu-Ray, if you've set the setting on Automatic on both the PS4 and the Projector.

There's a more thorough explanation here:
https://referencehometheater.com/201...ll-vs-limited/

But basically, movies and TV use Limited RGB whilst games use PC, so if you switch to PC for movies, you might not get perfect color representation.

Also 7300 hours is pretty good isn't it? I actually came into the topic to ask about the 4100 hours on my original bulb, been running Eco mode since the beginning, and was wondering if I should switch it now, as it's over the recommended lamp hours (3500 for Eco mode iirc), but it still hasn't notified me about a lamp change.
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post #12012 of 12127 Old 01-15-2018, 09:39 AM
 
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I run my projector in full-range from my PC but then sometimes switch the HDMI mode in the projector menu from Auto to Video. Losing a bit of shadow detail, even though it's technically wrong is a good trade-off for a much improved overall image. It just looks much better to me. Go ahead, guys, try it. Try changing the HDMI input level setting on the projector back and forth and see what looks better. To me, there is just so much more pop. Especially in dark scenes. Much more contrasty, not just a little. And also try different gamma settings. 2.2 is technically correct for sRGB but for movies 2.4 is better, and even 2.6 to me can look quite good.
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post #12013 of 12127 Old 01-15-2018, 08:48 PM
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I keep mine at 2.2 gamma, image gets too dark after that for my tastes. Tried switching between auto/video but don't see any difference, leaving at auto. PC I do see difference, but seems more washed. I find the dynamic preset interesting, and switching different lamp settings, normal seems most balanced or lamp native.

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post #12014 of 12127 Old 02-21-2018, 06:24 AM
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i didn't read many of the pages here.

is there something to cut down on the fan noise ? other than a hush box.

i came from a 18db projector, dead silent. while i am getting used to the 28db, it would be nice to quiet it at least some.

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post #12015 of 12127 Old 02-21-2018, 06:29 AM
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i didn't read many of the pages here.



is there something to cut down on the fan noise ? other than a hush box.



i came from a 18db projector, dead silent. while i am getting used to the 28db, it would be nice to quiet it at least some.


Mine is also pretty loud. Always has been.


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post #12016 of 12127 Old 02-21-2018, 09:43 AM
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Benq W1070 No 3D BluRay Audio

Good Morning,

Setup:
BenQ W1070 Projector
Denon (Non 3D Receiver)
3D Compatible HDMI Splitter
1.4 HDMI Cords
PS3/Xbox One (Updated to the latest firmware, both able to play 3D)

Wire routing:
PS3/Xbox One-->HDMI Splitter-->Projector (Video) & Receiver (Audio)


I am using the hdmi splitter because my receiver does not have 3D pass through capabilities.

The issue I'm having is that I'm getting no audio through my receiver once the 3D bluray starts playing on the ps3 or xbox one. I have audio from the game console up until I select to watch the movie, then no audio to the receiver, but the projector will still play the movie audio through its speakers. If I use my regular blu-ray player I have no issues with getting audio from my receiver and video to my projector, but my regular blu-ray player is not 3D thus why I'm using a gaming console.

Does anybody have any suggestions? I've tried several hdmi cables. The 3D disk I am trying to use is Tron Legacy 3D. I've tried going into the gaming consoles' audio settings, but I'm not seeing anything that could help.
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post #12017 of 12127 Old 02-21-2018, 11:41 AM
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Run a toslink cable for audio and switch to that in PS3 audio settings, unfortunately no HD audio that way. Might not work thru HDMI with HDCP, might need to put an HDCP passthru device in your loop.
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post #12018 of 12127 Old 02-21-2018, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BattleAxeVR View Post
I run my projector in full-range from my PC but then sometimes switch the HDMI mode in the projector menu from Auto to Video. Losing a bit of shadow detail, even though it's technically wrong is a good trade-off for a much improved overall image. It just looks much better to me. Go ahead, guys, try it. Try changing the HDMI input level setting on the projector back and forth and see what looks better. To me, there is just so much more pop. Especially in dark scenes. Much more contrasty, not just a little. And also try different gamma settings. 2.2 is technically correct for sRGB but for movies 2.4 is better, and even 2.6 to me can look quite good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtastic View Post
I keep mine at 2.2 gamma, image gets too dark after that for my tastes. Tried switching between auto/video but don't see any difference, leaving at auto. PC I do see difference, but seems more washed. I find the dynamic preset interesting, and switching different lamp settings, normal seems most balanced or lamp native.
I set gamma at max 2.8, crank up contrast 80-90 and let MadVR convert HDR to SDR with good settings, and 4k HDR movies look fantastic
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post #12019 of 12127 Old 02-21-2018, 09:40 PM
 
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I'll let you guys in on a dirty secret: all "HDR" displays are to this day, still technically gamma 2.2 native displays, except DLPs which are linear but use dithering. The main question is where is the tone mapping done. If it's done on the PC, you can still benefit from an "HDR"-like signal, by as you said using MadVR to transcode PQ to Gamma 2.8 and manually set 2.8 in the projector settings to convert it back to linear appropriately.

One thing you might try for HDR content is running the projector in YUV 10-bit mode (drop to 4:2:2) to reduce banding. You could even try using the analog VGA input to get true 10-bit at RGB (equivalent to 4:4:4), but you'll have to go to fullscreen DX mode in your media player to get that. That would give you the sharpest visuals with the least banding that this projector can offer for UHD Bluray HDR content. MadVR has options to force 10-bit in fullscreen mode apps. So if you use VGA output it might be possible to keep 4:4:4.

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post #12020 of 12127 Old 02-24-2018, 06:34 PM
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I’ve had my W1070 for four years now, and other than an overheating issue that never returned after some fan cleaning, it’s been pretty problem free. I don’t watch movies on it too much, the lamp is only at 1007 hours. However, tonight I turned it on and the picture had the colors all screwed up!

There seemed to be too much red I guess, as if a component cable had one of the Y Pb or Pr cables not attached, except this is connected via HDMI, so it wasn’t that.

I clicked helplessly through the menus, trying to find something I wasn’t sure was even there to set. Finally, I turned on the Test Pattern and a black and white grid appeared. I had to back out and pull up the menu again to get back to the setting to turn the Test Pattern off and when I did that, the screen flickered a slightly pink purple color and then the picture returned, NOW with the proper colors!

Anyone else experience this? If so, any ideas what the problem is that caused it. I am afraid it may happen again out of the blue like this time. At least I was able to get it back, but it would be good to know if it is a sign of an impending problem. Thanks.
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post #12021 of 12127 Old 02-24-2018, 06:45 PM
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I’ve had my W1070 for four years now, and other than an overheating issue that never returned after some fan cleaning, it’s been pretty problem free. I don’t watch movies on it too much, the lamp is only at 1007 hours. However, tonight I turned it on and the picture had the colors all screwed up!

There seemed to be too much red I guess, as if a component cable had one of the Y Pb or Pr cables not attached, except this is connected via HDMI, so it wasn’t that.

I clicked helplessly through the menus, trying to find something I wasn’t sure was even there to set. Finally, I turned on the Test Pattern and a black and white grid appeared. I had to back out and pull up the menu again to get back to the setting to turn the Test Pattern off and when I did that, the screen flickered a slightly pink purple color and then the picture returned, NOW with the proper colors!

Anyone else experience this? If so, any ideas what the problem is that caused it. I am afraid it may happen again out of the blue like this time. At least I was able to get it back, but it would be good to know if it is a sign of an impending problem. Thanks.
Sounds like it could be a color wheel sync issue. This could be from a number of causes but the most likely is a dirty or faulty color wheel sensor.

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post #12022 of 12127 Old 03-03-2018, 04:59 AM
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Has anyone constructed a knob for the vertical shift nub? Keeping a screwdriver by my pj is not what I would call an ideal best practice


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post #12023 of 12127 Old 03-03-2018, 05:18 AM
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Has anyone constructed a knob for the vertical shift nub? Keeping a screwdriver by my pj is not what I would call an ideal best practice


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I think that was solved on the 1085.

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post #12024 of 12127 Old 03-16-2018, 06:13 AM
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Benq W1070 Exploded After Just 1800 Hours Use

Hi All,

My Benq W1070 projector exploded last week. I have owned it for 15 months and use it a lot as its my TV, gaming screen and Chromecast display. Sadly I dont know how many lamp hours it has done as I couldn't check one its exploded. I can work out that it must be at least 1800 lamp hours on Eco mode based on minimum 4 hours per day over 15 months.

I cleaned out the inside as glass had gone in and around the housing. I then bought a £40 replacement housing and bulb off Amazon to test that it is still working. Sadly this didnt fix the projector but I dont know if this was because it was a cheap replacement bulb or because something else caused the explosion.

It is still within the 2 year warranty so I have sent it off to be checked and am awaiting the results. After reading various threads on this forum 1800 hours lamp life seems very low for this bulb to explode and realistically I would expect Benq to replace the bulb if this was the case (although doubt they will). Anyone else had something similiar and if so did you fork out for a genuine replacement bulb of find somewhere in the UK that sells cheaper quality bulbs?

I really cant afford to buy a brand new projector or replacement bulb so hoping they find something else caused the explosion and send back a fully working projector.
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post #12025 of 12127 Old 03-16-2018, 07:59 AM
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Due to manufacturing and operational variations there's no way to predict exactly how long a UHP lamp will last. Estimated lamp life is based on averages with some lasting longer and some shorter. Most slowly lose brightness until they no longer produce a bright enough image that most would find acceptable while a few pop and shatter. It's always better when they pop while the projector is still under warranty because occasionally they can cause internal damage to the projector. Cheap replacement lamps are a crap shoot. Some work OK and some are junk. The only safe and reliable replacement lamp is a genuine one that will not be cheap.
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post #12026 of 12127 Old 03-16-2018, 08:03 AM
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Thanks David. Anyone have any thoughts on whether it is best to buy a lamp + housing or just buy the lamp to save ££?
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post #12027 of 12127 Old 03-16-2018, 10:33 AM
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Hey guys!
Any of you moved to one of the affordable "4Kish" projectors yet?
Just trying to figure out if its a complete upgrade from our beloved projector. I keep reading some info on super low contrast levels from at least the BenQ. Or how about black levels..is the main thing I wish to improve plus details of course.

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post #12028 of 12127 Old 03-16-2018, 01:49 PM
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Thanks David. Anyone have any thoughts on whether it is best to buy a lamp + housing or just buy the lamp to save ££?
Genuine lamps only come with the housing. Replacing the bulb alone is a bit more hassle, and it didn't save me money doing it that way. I was relatively happy with the CTLAMP which comes as a complete module. Not quite as bright, and I only got 2500 hours out of it, but at less than $50 it was reasonable value.

https://www.amazon.com/CTLAMP-Projec...enq+w1070+lamp

I think it is interesting that there is a 3-yr warranty avail for $1.37 that will supposedly send you an Amazon e-card for replacement value if they cannot fix the electronic component insured. Obviously an exploded lamp cannot be "fixed", so would Asurion send you a $50 gift card ? Unless the insurance company is bogus, such a low insurance cost would be an indicator that the product is reliable and they never expect to have to pay for a replacement.

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post #12029 of 12127 Old 03-16-2018, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
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I cleaned out the inside as glass had gone in and around the housing. I then bought a £40 replacement housing and bulb off Amazon to test that it is still working. Sadly this didnt fix the projector but I dont know if this was because it was a cheap replacement bulb or because something else caused the explosion.
Bulb warranties are always very short from the projector manufacturers. Ironically, the warranty on a replace lamp is generally longer than the one the projector came with.

When you say "it didn't fix the projector" what do you mean ? Do the lights on the control panel on top of the projector work ? Did the projector seem to start up with the replacement lamp, with fans running, but the lamp never light up ? Or did it light up and then shut down after a few minutes ?

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Psycoustic Mark III L&R Towers, Boston Center, Energy Take 5 Surrounds
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post #12030 of 12127 Old 03-30-2018, 12:32 PM
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Lamp went out last night... I think I only got a bit over 2k hours with the original lamp. Have anyone used this lamp?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...7DAANA2Z&psc=1

Or should I go with OEM. Benq site has lamp for $199.00 where the amazon one is only $109.... Any suggestions?
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