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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kansas City, MO
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I figured it out after some additional playing around. Panasonic level 1 support wasn't helpful, courteous yes, helpful no. Their tier 2 support is apparently closed over the weekend so that explains why I didn't get the call back I expected and was told I'd receive today.
Anyway - to the fix:
1) Put the lens knob joystick (under the front cover) of the projector in the middle indent so there is no physical lens shift. Reset all digital controls under Lens Control and Position in the Projector Menus. Let's start with a fresh slate.
2) Hang the projector, with the lens as close to true center of the physical projection screen as possible -- and level it using a bubble level. The lens should be vertically parallel to the Projector screen. Perfectly parallel to preserve focus uniformity. Hence if your projector wall is perfectly vertical - your bubble level should read flat on the top of the projector.
3) Start by putting a 16x9 image on the screen (the lens test image works fine)
4) Use the lens knob joystick to place the image on the center of the screen - using the zoom and focus to perfect the display to top and bottom velvet border --- SAVE this setting under the lens memory as 16x9
5) Throw in a 2.35:1 movie and play it. The image will appear too small. Use the zoom and focus to perfect the display, when you get it to the right physical size the overall image will likely be too low if you have a ceiling mounted projector. So use the V-Area Position under the lens control (NOT V-Position under Position) to raise the entire 2.35:1 image. In my case I had to raise it +24. -- SAVE this setting as Scope or 2.35:1 under lens memory slot 2. Use H-Area Position under Lens Control sparingly, or not at all if you can place your projector near center of the projector image it shouldn't be needed. If not, you may have to use the physical lens adjustment knob once more to perfect the 2.35:1 image placement towards left and right border of the projector screen frame.
6) Use Left Masking Area, Right Masking Area, Upper Masking Area, and Lower Masking Area to move physical shades into position to block the overthrown 16x9 image that happens in the 2.35:1 position. Note: DO NOT USE MASKING ON YOUR 16x9 image!!! Masking is for the 2.35:1 image only! (Also Note - these masks may potentially block disk player GUI, AVR GUI, subtitles, because most A/V products don't resize these GUI elements to fit inside the smaller strip of media content. IE - if the subtles are in the black bar space on a CinemaScope movie when used on a standard 16x9 display, when using masking you may will not see the subtitles at all). SAVE your Scope or 2.35:1 memory position again with the new masking selections in place. More Info: My projector is mounted in the traditional ceiling mount orientation - upside down. The lens measures just a couple inches under the top black velvet bar. Because of the high mounting position on my unit, the masking works for me on the top of my image, left, and right, but on the bottom of my image I can't mask far enough up (even at +70 max) So I see the black bar overspill below my projected image. The only way I could fix that is to further lower my projector mounting height. I have short ceilings, so this isn't an option for me. You don't have infinite masking headroom, the closer you can mount your projector to the actuall middle of your projector screens physical height the more ideally all these controls work. 2/3's height is fine as well. Alternatively, use black velvet around your screen to absorb the black bar overspill if its a cosmetic problem. A flat black matte paint, or acoustic tile can also help to absorb the black bar overspill if your masking adjustment can't quite hit the amount required.
7) Enable Auto Switching under Lens Control in the projector GUI.
Fixed! Now your screen will automatically switch content while you have some lens offset with the physical knob if necessary. They physical knob on the front of the projector is better to use than any type of digital keystone function, but it is still not ideal (you can lose a little focus uniformity and brightness)
My failure was that I was trying to adjust it to the scope option first so I could fill my cinema scope projector screen perfectly. (makes sense right? getting the left and right distances correct? -- sure makes sense to me anyway- so I was getting the screen centered and vertically adjusted for cinema scope) but when the projector went to 16x9 mode the picture would be off the top of the projector screen because the 16x9 is taller than scope. Trying to drop the image using the digital lens controls would actually just cutoff/delete content, basically cutting off the actors heads. So you can't really modify 16x9 picture much vertically because it already uses the whole vertical span. However you CAN modify the scope screen vertically and not lose content - so you have to do the 16x9 adjustment first and then do the scope adjustment Simple order of configuration made it work!
If you were using a desk mount (right side up/or shelf mount) with physical lens shift you'd probably have to reverse my instructions but they should still work.
Good luck - hope this helps!
Archaea's 9.8.4 Home Theater Room
(13) JBL CBT 70j-1 | Denon x7200wa | Sherbourn PA 7-350 amplifier | (8) Ultimax 18" sealed subwoofers | (4) iNuke DSP 6000 amplifiers | (4) MB Quart 12" subwoofers mounted direct mounted to Berkline theater chairs BOSS style | Epson 5040UB Projector | Jamestown 144" acoustic transparent 2.35:1 screen w/ Seymour XD fabric
Last edited by Archaea; 03-29-2019 at 04:23 PM.