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Optoma HD25 and HD25-LV owners

35K views 135 replies 66 participants last post by  JediFonger 
#1 ·
Just got the HD25-LV and found out that the brightness drops significantly in 3D mode. Plus I have massive crosstalk in the green channel. I'll try a full reset to try to get rid of that but the brightness is an issue.

A call to Optoma and they confirm that the brightness will drop in 3D but will be brighter in 2D. So what's the point of buying a brighter 3D projector if it doesn't use the extra brightness for 3D?

They also said they know nothing about this PJ since it is so new and had no idea about the crosstalk.


Another issue is when you go to adjust contrast or brightness, the displayed sliders are so bright that they interfere with the adjustment, especially when using a calibration disk.

Also in 3D the lamp does not brighten, you have to go into the lamp menu to set it to bright then back into it to return to eco mode for 2d viewing.

BrilliantColor drastically changes the white balance.


On the plus side, it doesn't clip the primaries like my HD33.


td
 
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#102 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SillieBazzillie  /t/1473160/optoma-hd25-and-hd25-lv-owners/90#post_24304850


Hey guys, I have a hd 66 (love it) and want to upgrade to the 25-lv. What remote comes in the box? I see on the manual that there's a remote B that includes zoom on the remote. I use my projector for movies and gaming and really like to make the picture smaller when gaming. The way I have the projector set up, manually adjusting the zoom is a pain. Thanks for the help.

You don't get a powered zoom lens in this price range - only digital. It is still a manual zoom projector.
 
#103 ·
Ugh, it doesn't look like i'm going to be able to get this PJ due to room limitations. Are there any other similar PJ's that would work? I need to be able to put the PJ 10' from the screen. This requires it to be back further than I am able to do. My screen will be about 5-6" down from the ceiling too, which is too high for this projector based on the calculators. I'm a bit annoyed because this PJ seems to be a great value and produce a great picture. It's also bright and does 3D better because of it from what i've read on here.
 
#105 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mntwister  /t/1473160/optoma-hd25-and-hd25-lv-owners/90#post_24278079


Hi...I am a owner of the new JVC 4910. It is rated at 1300 lumens. I am considering buying a projector just for 3D that is brighter. I have seen the HD25 LV, and wondering if anyone could give me some input as to what the brightest 3D (and best displayed) is. I will use the new projector for 3D only and will use the JVC for 2D movies. I have a 2.4 high gain 159" DaLite screen, I am looking for maximum brightness with a good picture. I know the black level will never equal the JVC but am willing to compromise for brightness as I watch alot of 3D. Thanks.
I need too an answer for it,
 
#106 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SillieBazzillie  /t/1473160/optoma-hd25-and-hd25-lv-owners/90#post_24346853


Thanks for that. One more question, will my 3D-XL converter box and glasses work with the 25lv? I think not but just want to verify.



Thanks
you would not need the 3d xl as the HD25 handles 3d just fine, and if I had to lay a bet on the glasses I would say no as those are old dlp link glasses that probably worked at the 120hz...hd25-lv uses 144 hz.
 
#107 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by xorxhs  /t/1473160/optoma-hd25-and-hd25-lv-owners/90#post_24351399



I need too an answer for it,

wow a 2.4 gain screen with this projector would be blinding I am assuming. I dont know realy mesaurements but on projectorcentral calculator they have that as 45fl..other people should chip in but that is a really high amount.
 
#108 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by merkaba  /t/1473160/optoma-hd25-and-hd25-lv-owners/90#post_24305475


Ugh, it doesn't look like i'm going to be able to get this PJ due to room limitations. Are there any other similar PJ's that would work? I need to be able to put the PJ 10' from the screen. This requires it to be back further than I am able to do. My screen will be about 5-6" down from the ceiling too, which is too high for this projector based on the calculators. I'm a bit annoyed because this PJ seems to be a great value and produce a great picture. It's also bright and does 3D better because of it from what i've read on here.
Merkaba: why would you need a projector in a room of only ten feet in length. If I were in your shoes id save a lot of time and money and get a very nice smart tv.

Good luck with whatever you decide!
 
#109 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by zebrafetish2000  /t/1473160/optoma-hd25-and-hd25-lv-owners/90#post_24356006


Merkaba: why would you need a projector in a room of only ten feet in length. If I were in your shoes id save a lot of time and money and get a very nice smart tv.

Good luck with whatever you decide!

My projector is in a room 13' wide and we sit anywhere from 8 to 12 feet away and love our projector.
 
#110 ·
Well, I figure with the 2.4 gain screen and the lumens of the projector, I should get a very nice bright 3D image, which is all I would be using it for. I have a 4910 JVC for 2D. Has anyone looked at the Optoma EH series? Just wondering, I am trying to maximize brightness for 3D. I contacted Optoma and these EH projectors are 1080p with 1080p 3D, but rather than the rated 3200 lumens are closer to 5000. The only problem is 2 of them don't have any lens shift and one is only vertical, but my projector sits directly in front of my screen at the center, right behind the seating. I can't find any reviews.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/parts_compare.cfm?add=7476&add=7726&add=7858&add=7889
 
#111 ·
Last question, after research it seems that the RF glasses are preferred to the DLP link ones. The only negative I've seen regarding RF was some lowered brightness in early reviews. One of my issues with my current 3D projector (HD66) is that's it's a little dark in 3D, but it looks like the HD25-LV projector has light to spare so I shouldn't stress over the RF.
 
#117 ·
New HD25lv flickering on Fios

I have a new HD 25, just got it, upgrading from HD20. When I watch Fios, it starts flickering
about 30 minutes after the unit fires up. Thin black line intermittently flickers near top of screen. When I switch over to a another source like Roku or DVD, the flickering is not present. Switch back to Fios, flickering is there.

All sources connected through yamaha 7.1 receiver and all sources go through HDMI 1 on projector.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
#118 · (Edited)
Folks I upgraded to HD25-LV from 3 year old 3010. And am just loving the brightness, pop, sharpness and ZERO-crosstalk 3D on my 150". I know people say it sucks in calibrated lumens, but I did not find anything wrong with the colors OOB and now realize I cant live without the brightness (especially in 3D). May be ignorance is bliss

When I display the "grid test pattern", i see that the grid is not perfectly focused even though I got the menu text to focus. I tried two units and its the same issue. Is this normal?

Should I use any test grid from external content? If so what would you recommend?

However even with this focus issue, HD25-LV is much better than 3010's soft focus and I certainly notice a marked upgrade in sharpness and pop compared to LCD. But I am worried if I am missing out on eve better performance due to this less than ideal focus issue on my HD25-LV.

Also any calibration setting I could try for 2D?
 
#121 · (Edited)
I have the HD25 for 10 months now. Can't get the whole test grid perfectly sharp in the corners as well as in the center, but this does not affect enjoyment of movies as it is not noticeable.

I highly recommend Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark disc to fine tune the sharpness setting to your liking. I also find I can set brightness and contrast optimally using its Pluge 0% pattern. You can play around with brightness in a 2-notch range (eg. -5 and -4 for mine) and set the contrast for each brightness setting so that the background checkerboard pattern is just visible. I ended up with 2 sets of numbers I can use depending on each movie's picture quality: (a) Brightness -4 Contrast -18 to -16 (b) Brightness -5 Contrast -9.

You have to check that the contrast is not set too high that the colors are clipped by reviewing the color contrast patterns.
 
#122 ·
anybody out there? 3D glasses discussion?

Just wondering what DLP Link glasses everyone is using nowadays. I started out with the optoma DLP knock-offs but those are no longer available. (from 3DTV Corp) I tried the Sainsonic brand below, but I find the clear edge of the lens is distracting, they kind of light up around the edge like the tip of a fiber optic cable. So what is everyone using? I have also discovered that you are lucky if the glasses last more than 18 months.

http://www.amazon.com/SainSonic-Rec...UTF8&qid=1453839566&sr=1-6&keywords=sainsonic
 
#123 · (Edited)
DenM3, I would strongly encourage you to get RF glasses (and the required emitter) instead of DLP-Link glasses. The HD25-LV is one of the relatively few projectors on the market that can take advantage of the more recent RF technology.

I used DLP-Link glasses with my previous 3D projector but made the switch when I got my HD25-LV a couple of years ago. I think that the RF glasses are modestly but clearly better than DLP-Link glasses.

DLP-Link synchronizes to the projected image directly on your screen by recognizing a solid white (or, on some systems, red) signal that is displayed along with the left- and right-eye images. While the DLP-Link glasses generally do a good job of blocking out this sync signal, the RF glasses don't need a displayed signal at all. This avoids issues with the contrast of the 3D image since that image is never washed-out in appearance.

DLP-Link glasses also lose sync with the 3D image on occasion when there is a very bright scene in the image. I presume that is the result of the glasses "getting confused" about the bright light on the screen and "thinking" that it is the displayed synchronization signal. For me, this problem only happened with two movies (TANGLED and the MUMMIES Imax 3D disc). My RF glasses have never lost sync.

DLP-Link glasses often required me to switch 3D polarity to get the left-eye image in sync with the left-eye lens. This is an easy thing to do (a 3D setting on the projector) and it typically only needs to be done once at the beginning of the 3D movie. But my RF glasses somehow detect the correct 3D polarity and only on a couple of occasions have they "gotten confused" where I had to switch them.

Again, all of these benefits are relatively modest, but I'm definitely sold on RF being the way to go with 3D.

The required RF emitter, which attaches to the VESA port of the projector, handles multiple pairs of glasses without a hitch. (I have six.) RF glasses used to be quite a bit more expensive than DLP-Link glasses, but the price difference is now quite modest.

I recommend the following:

1) An ESG6100 Starter Kit: The EStar RF emitter and one pair of EStar RF glasses. These are basically the same as the Optoma RF emitter and glasses but are typically less expensive and easier to acquire.
http://www.amazon.com/EStar-America...454653896&sr=1-1&keywords=estar+3d+rf+emitter

2) If you need additional RF glasses, you can get more ESG6000s or the equivalent Optoma BG-ZF2100GLS glasses. Optoma has glasses of more recent vintage, but they aren't compatible with the EStar emitter mentioned above. The Optoma ZF2100 glasses are compatible with the EStar emitter and are sometimes less expensive than the EStar equivalents. (The ZF2100s are the RF glasses I have. They are rechargeable via USB and have given me zero trouble in the two years I've owned them.)
http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-BG-ZF2...3703&sr=8-1&keywords=optoma+zf2100+rf+glasses

One more thing: Optoma ZF2100 glasses (or the equivalent EStar RF glasses mentioned above) work with the older Optoma BC100B RF emitter (or the equivalent EStar RF emitter mentioned above) and the more recent Optoma ZF2300 glasses work with the BC300 emitter. But the 100s don't work with the 300s.
 
#124 ·
Thanks FXRH. I took your advice, and bought the newer Optoma BC300 emitter. I know I am stuck with the ZF2300s, but are there any other glasses besides the Estar that that folks know of? The Optoma ZF2300s were 46 bucks on amazon. The Estar were about 10 bucks more expensive.


Regarding the switch to RF--- I have to say it is a huge difference! And I mean a huge improvement! Much richer colors, and the absence of the flicker makes the experience so much better. Thanks for any other tips.
 
#126 ·
Another Question to all you experts ...this is about Frames Per Second.

I usually run all my sources in 24 FPS, but wondering if any of you run yours at 60 FPS to provide slightly more "Pop" to the image quality?
For things like sports, I think it might produce a better quality image.

I am not a fan of the Soap Box Effect of newer TVs that run at over 100 FPS, especially for movies. I Would like to hear others thoughts on these settings, thanks all!

D
 
#129 ·
I have an HD25-LV projector that serves in a dedicated HT. As such, it is used less than 6 hours a week primarily for movie night and the odd hockey game in season. After 3 years use, I am still more than pleased with it's performance and even though it is only 1080p, I still prefer its picture to that of my cheapie 4k 65" RCA display that I use for day to day TV watching.

I recently upgraded my amp for ATMOS/DTSX and, in the process of fishing speaker wire through my drop ceiling for height channels, managed to raise up some dust around the projector. To my horror, there is now what appears to be a water stain, in the top right hand corner of the image. I'm sure it is caused by a piece of lint or dust somewhere within the supposedly "sealed" light path.

There is an authorized OPTOMA service center here in Toronto. How much is a reasonable price to pay to have this thing professionally cleaned? Is it a guaranteed fix for this issue or would I be throwing good money after bad? In which case, am I better off chucking this and upgrading to an HD27HDR?

Normally, I am secretly grateful when one of my toys starts to show it's age as it pushes me over that "should I upgrade" cliff. In this case, I am hesitant because, this dust blob aside, I really do still love the picture that the HD25-LV puts out in my pitch black theater. Also, I did just shell out for the new ONKYO amp, so my HT budget is kind of blown for a bit.
 
#130 ·
new HD25 owner here.

it's 2019 now, is ESG6100 still the best option and also zf300 glasses still works with it?
 
#134 ·
i got lucky and landed BC300+3 pairs of ZF2300 for $140-ish.



meanwhile, have anyone else replaced their colour wheel? i also ordered that as a part (as it was making loud sharp noises like grinding-ish) and also a dust cover.

couple of questions:
-what do you use to clean the lense? i have micro-fibre clothes. outside of that do you need to use any chemicals? no water right?

any tips on dust maintenance, i've got the US edition so no dust filter needed. going to be opening it up soon to replace color wheel just seeing what other stuff i need to do while it is opened.

thanks everyone!

so glad i got a deal on this projector and finally seeing a ton of true 1080p content after all these years as well as frame-packed 3D is all amazing top notch!

oh one more question. does anyone know where to get the tuning values for this projector? is this a good one to use: https://www.projectorreviews.com/optoma/optoma-hd25-lv-projector-calibration-and-settings/

so long story short, but 2D and 3D is simply AMAZING!
 
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