DUST BLOBS ON THE 5010 LCD PANELS - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 27 Old 03-15-2014, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Has anyone had good results in cleaning dust blobs from the 5010 LCD Panels?B][/B]

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post #2 of 27 Old 03-16-2014, 12:44 PM
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I had about 7 blobs on the epson 1080ub I have. I opened it up and saw the three ribbons feeding into the light chamber. Made a speeze bulb thing with say inch and a half plastic tube from a keyboard dust blower. You don't want to use the high pressure blower. I've attached a picture of the bulb. You have the projector on while viewing a black pattern then work down into each panel and watch the blobs go away. They haven't come back either, if they do I know what to do. P6010003.JPG 689k .JPG file

The bulb is a solder sucker I had already.
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post #3 of 27 Old 03-17-2014, 07:19 AM
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https://www.avsforum.com/t/1369211/any-way-to-diy-cleaning-of-dirty-internal-optics

Read post #8 to give you some ideas. Guitarmans squeeze rig is OK for what it does but I prefer using a small compressor with a basketball needle tip on a flexible hose. MAKE SURE you Blow air from the Optical block OUT. If you can get to the optical Block easily use the fuzzy sticks. If you are going to disconnect the LCD ribbon connectors MAKE SURE before you touch them you know how they open and close. Some slide and some swing. THEY ARE VERY fragile and only move a TINY bit- Bohanna
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post #4 of 27 Old 03-17-2014, 07:45 AM
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I do think the key is to have the projector running, projecting black, and focussed on the dust blobs while cleaning. This is the way it worked on Sanyo projectors that had ports built into the case so you could blow air on the panels without opening it up and while it was running. Some blobs were blown out on the first few tries, but others were stubborn and took a lot of effort. It's much easier when you can see it all happening in real time.

I will probably try it on my Epson 5030 eventually, but the one dust blob I have now is not that bad so I'm going to wait a while.

BTW, when I cleaned my old Sanyo Z5, focussing on the dust blobs showed not just the 2 or 3 that I thought there were, but hundreds of other smaller ones that weren't visible individually but were scattering light and increasing the overall black level. After blowing out the dust the black level improved noticably.
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post #5 of 27 Old 03-18-2014, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

I do think the key is to have the projector running, projecting black, and focussed on the dust blobs while cleaning. This is the way it worked on Sanyo projectors that had ports built into the case so you could blow air on the panels without opening it up and while it was running. Some blobs were blown out on the first few tries, but others were stubborn and took a lot of effort. It's much easier when you can see it all happening in real time.

I will probably try it on my Epson 5030 eventually, but the one dust blob I have now is not that bad so I'm going to wait a while.

BTW, when I cleaned my old Sanyo Z5, focussing on the dust blobs showed not just the 2 or 3 that I thought there were, but hundreds of other smaller ones that weren't visible individually but were scattering light and increasing the overall black level. After blowing out the dust the black level improved noticably.
Nope sorry WRONG on several levels. You don't want to go blowing air around from the outside hoping it will land in the right place. This is like sweeping dust around a room hoping it will not blow back to the center. You need to remove the dust. You will also have spots on the panels and optics that need to be wiped.. the fuzzy sticks work great for this . You don't want to work on it while the case is open because you could easily short out a cable or a connector. Also there will be dust behind the front lens that is usually pretty easy to clean with a handkerchief wrapped around a strip from a Business card. - Bohanna
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post #6 of 27 Old 03-18-2014, 07:38 AM
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I don't mean blowing air from outside. The top will need to be off even though the PJ is running, and the air should be blown as directly as possible onto each panel (even though you can't see the panels, you can see where the ribbon cable leads to each panel). And because you can see the result of your efforts in real-time on the screen, you're not just blowing and hoping. You can see when you're done. You even know which panel to work on from the colour of the bright spots on the screen (after you focus on the dust).

This is how the Sanyo cleaning system was designed, except that they left holes in the case where you could insert the blower while the PJ was running (and the blower was custom designed so it could only be inserted the proper depth to make sure it blew on the panels). I used it and it worked very well. The dust might not have been removed from the case, but it didn't come back so it must have been blown far enough away.

I'm sure there are bad cases that need more drastic action, but at some point I'm going to try this simple approach before getting more adventurous and physically touching the optics with cleaning sticks.
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post #7 of 27 Old 03-19-2014, 10:12 PM
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Yeah this is a simple thing, people don't need to dissect the parts, what the gentlemen just said above is all that's needed. There will always be new dust floating around at least there's a simple way to take it away. I'm watching my 1080ub now and the blobs are still done, good enough for me.

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post #8 of 27 Old 03-20-2014, 08:55 AM
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Not sure about the how the Sanyo Cleaning system was designed. This might help a bit with the huge blobs but having cleaned a couple of hundred projectors so far the end result with my method will be better than a couple of puffs from a hand held blood pressure pump. There are several surfaces on the inner and outer parts of the LCD block along with the three lenses that come from the light path. Many times i have seen moisture drops that need to be removed with the fuzzy sticks along with a huge amount of dirt and debris on the main front lens. The quickest way to see if you have clean optics is to put up a white image and move the focus in and out.- Bohanna
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post #9 of 27 Old 03-20-2014, 03:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Many thanks to guitarman, Bohanna, kriktsemaj99. Makes AVS look good. ....This Epson 5010 problem SOLVED. Blobs gone. gil
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post #10 of 27 Old 03-20-2014, 04:43 PM
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So are you going to tell us exactly what you did?
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post #11 of 27 Old 03-24-2014, 03:24 PM
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Let owners know what you did for your Epson 5010, down the road they're be looking for this info. Did you go the simple route that I pointed out?

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post #12 of 27 Old 03-24-2014, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil Arroyo View Post

Many thanks to guitarman, Bohanna, kriktsemaj99. Makes AVS look good. ....This Epson 5010 problem SOLVED. Blobs gone. gil

Well thanks a lot to you too...FOR NOTHING! eek.gif

biggrin.gif

But seriously, why don't you share what method worked for you? You know, to help your fellow travelers on the path of home theater projection perfection.

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post #13 of 27 Old 03-28-2014, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestion to update.

After opening case and removing cables and blocking circuit board, located a very dusty light path partially open to a nozzle tube :)from a compressed air can blower. Using light touch,
blew the compressed air where I though would do the most good.

Replaced cables but did not remount circuit board. Watched on white video and then very dark with the no major blobs seen. The blobs were vaguely seen not quite in focus before the disassembly

The very light touch of the air had apparently removed most of the larger blobs off at LCD panels. Removed board again for a no-view cleaning.

The whole 'light path' was loaded with dust including the glass. Not just the 5 or 6 big blobs.

Used damp and then dry Q-Tips on all glass surfaces and all reachable surfaces (not the LCDs). Cannot see any dust during scene changes during movies now.

Appreciate all the help.

gil:)
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post #14 of 27 Old 03-28-2014, 11:32 AM
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Except for the Q-Tips it seems like you have it under control. The Q-Tips tend to hang on sharp edges and leave thread like strands that are a pain in the A-S-S to get off the optics if they get hung up. This is why the fuzzy sticks are so Much better ,,,,, they bend in and around the areas that tend to collect dust and they pull back intact. - Bohanna
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post #15 of 27 Old 03-28-2014, 01:12 PM
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I have heard that cans of compressed air can actually have some liquid/oil come out with the air. I don't know this for sure, but if that is a possibility, wouldn't it be better to use a pump? For cleaning dust blobs off my DSLR sensor I use a hand pump. The one I use is the Giottos Rocket Air Blaster:



It's only $7.75 shipped on Amazon right now, and I've gotten a lot of use out of mine.

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post #16 of 27 Old 03-28-2014, 02:02 PM
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Yes indeed, use an air blower like the one shown above.

Do not use compressed air as it can 'spot' the insides and you'll be far worse off.

Jason

HT = Sony HW45ES @133" / Lumagen Radiance / Denon x5200 7.3.4 Atmos / B&K 5000 II amp / Boston VR2/VR12/CR67 speakers / Rythmik 12" subs x2 / CV 15" sub / Sony x800 / Toshiba HD-A3
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post #17 of 27 Old 03-29-2014, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaGamePimp View Post

Yes indeed, use an air blower like the one shown above.

Do not use compressed air as it can 'spot' the insides and you'll be far worse off.

Jason

Sorry but using compressed air works the best by far. As far as spotting the inside I have cleaned over 200+ projectors and have never seen spots from it. I can't say for sure canned air wouldn't have some issues if it has a liquid based source but compressed air from a regular compressor works Great. The Sqeeze bottle shown above won't come close to what compressed air will do. I have several nozzles mounted on flexible hoses so I can get into nooks and crannies and bring it back to as close to factory clean as possible without dissembling it! Bohanna
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post #18 of 27 Old 03-29-2014, 06:21 PM
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Bohanna,

Most compressed air containers have, at the very least, trace amounts of liquid (there are exceptions) and so it is best for everyone to simply avoid using unless they are 100% certain the air they are using is free of any condensation.

The air blaster as shown above puts out a good amount of air with a good amount of pressure, serious pressure can actually damage some of the internals (especially regarding the DMD panel inside of DLP units where the micro-mirrors could become damaged).

I don't think anyone here was making reference to an actual air compressor (gas or electric). wink.gif

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post #19 of 27 Old 03-30-2014, 07:11 AM
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I assumed he wasn't talking about canned air. A real air compressor can will blow harder and there's nothing to contaminate the air. For example...
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post #20 of 27 Old 03-30-2014, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

I assumed he wasn't talking about canned air. A real air compressor can will blow harder and there's nothing to contaminate the air. For example...

That's a cool device, I've never seen that before. I've added it to my Amazon wish list. I would still want to compliment it with my hand pump, since sometimes I want a more gentle puff of air.

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post #21 of 27 Old 03-30-2014, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
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Bohanna,

Most compressed air containers have, at the very least, trace amounts of liquid (there are exceptions) and so it is best for everyone to simply avoid using unless they are 100% certain the air they are using is free of any condensation.

The air blaster as shown above puts out a good amount of air with a good amount of pressure, serious pressure can actually damage some of the internals (especially regarding the DMD panel inside of DLP units where the micro-mirrors could become damaged).

I don't think anyone here was making reference to an actual air compressor (gas or electric). wink.gif

Jason
This is like comparing a squirt gun to a fire hose. Like i said earlier the airblaster above is a toy compared to a real stream of compressed air and although it may somehow be possible for compressed air to damage a panel I have NEVER seen it done in any of the projector optics I have cleaned and I get the basketball needle tipped airflow right up next to them. . As far as a DLP chip goes the light tunnel is supposed to be sealed so cleaning one is really not an issue even through I have seen some that have picked up a bit of dust its nothing like the dust LCD panels collect.- Bohanna.
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post #22 of 27 Old 03-30-2014, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgar_in_Indy View Post

I have heard that cans of compressed air can actually have some liquid/oil come out with the air. I don't know this for sure, but if that is a possibility, wouldn't it be better to use a pump? For cleaning dust blobs off my DSLR sensor I use a hand pump. The one I use is the Giottos Rocket Air Blaster:



It's only $7.75 shipped on Amazon right now, and I've gotten a lot of use out of mine.

thanks--ordered one. gil
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post #23 of 27 Old 03-31-2014, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohanna View Post

This is like comparing a squirt gun to a fire hose. Like i said earlier the airblaster above is a toy compared to a real stream of compressed air and although it may somehow be possible for compressed air to damage a panel I have NEVER seen it done in any of the projector optics I have cleaned and I get the basketball needle tipped airflow right up next to them. . As far as a DLP chip goes the light tunnel is supposed to be sealed so cleaning one is really not an issue even through I have seen some that have picked up a bit of dust its nothing like the dust LCD panels collect.- Bohanna.


With a DLP (sealed) you obviously cannot blow out dust blobs unless you access the light tunnel (and yes I realize the OP was related to the 5010... LCD).

I commend you on your success rate but your suggested method of blowing out any projector regardless of the tech would be frowned upon by those that build and design them.

To each their own and best of luck to those that employ that 'fire hose' method. wink.gif

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post #24 of 27 Old 04-01-2014, 04:40 PM
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Gil, thanks for starting this topic. I also have an Epson 5010 with dust issues. I'm wanting to know if I can clean the optics without removing the pj from the ceiling mount?
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post #25 of 27 Old 04-02-2014, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Gil, thanks for starting this topic. I also have an Epson 5010 with dust issues. I'm wanting to know if I can clean the optics without removing the pj from the ceiling mount?

If you are good at working upside down. Just replacing the lamp is a contortionist job if approached from the bottom. Strongly recommend removing from the mount to access the light path for blowing or "stickys". Use bright lights. You will want to study the mechanics anyway.

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post #26 of 27 Old 04-02-2014, 09:51 PM
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Man I got lucky with my Epson 1080ub that thing had about 7 large egg shaped blobs in a black video pattern. That little do dad I made up is a solder sucker which is useful if you do electronics and the nozzle is just a cut from a compressed air can. I liked that the needle was thin to get down into the 3 lcd panel channels. I used a 1 and 1/2 inch tube just aiming down at the start of the channel and working my way down doing the same for the other channels. It was the green lcd that has most of the dust. Still hasn't come back just some real nice video out of the epson. Funny I'm still a DLP fan but that LCD has it's merits.

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post #27 of 27 Old 04-03-2014, 06:02 AM
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The best way to see how much dust you have on the panels is to look at them with the cover off while the lamp is running. Once you determine this shut it down and clean the panels. There is usually a lot of dust in front of the block where it goes into the main lens as well. This is pretty easy to clean. The quickest way to see how dirty the optics are with the cover closed is to project a white image and move the focus in and out. The reason fuzzy sticks work so well is you can bend them around the knooks and crannies of the panels for cleaning and they don't leave fibers on the optical path. - Bohanna
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