SONY VPL-HW40ES : New SONY SXRD 1080P home theater projector - Page 79 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2341 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by pacemaker View Post
Hi Guys,
Would you consider the below lens bend as acceptable?
both sides are level with the black border but it bends up in the centre
So far Sony say it’s within parameters

Personally that bend would drive me crazy. Are you using any lens shift? If so, does it still manifest when completely centered? If you've recently purchased, have you considered pursuing an exchange with the retailer?
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post #2342 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Corndart View Post
Personally that bend would drive me crazy. Are you using any lens shift? If so, does it still manifest when completely centered? If you've recently purchased, have you considered pursuing an exchange with the retailer?
No lens shift and PJ is centre screen. Drives me crazy too. Had it about six weeks but was late setting up. Retailer is helpful and agrees it is unacceptable but Sony not prepared to swap out at moment
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post #2343 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by pacemaker View Post
No lens shift and PJ is centre screen. Drives me crazy too. Had it about six weeks but was late setting up. Retailer is helpful and agrees it is unacceptable but Sony not prepared to swap out at moment
If Sony isn't being helpful and the retailer won't do anything, perhaps contact your credit card company and explain you have a defective product and ask them to goto bat for you. It would fall back to the retailer and force them to deal with Sony (who I'd argue is sympathetic but not helpful), but I'm not sure you have a lot of options at this point.

Last edited by Corndart; 01-28-2015 at 09:07 AM.
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post #2344 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by KanosWRX View Post
Awesome that's what I was looking to hear. So I should have no issue putting it in a projector box on the ceiling then. Thanks! Can't wait to see the projector on my screen in a couple months when construction finishes
Keep in mind that the 3D probably won't work if it's in a box. IR 3D needs line of sight to the projector. Even having it behind a soffit is problematic (as noted by someone earlier in the thread).

If you really want a box, you'll either need to give up 3D or add an emitter on the outside of the box.
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post #2345 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 09:21 AM
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HW40ES with Oppo 103D, DeepColor makes difference

Was wondering if someone who feeds HW40ES with Oppo 103Darbee uses DeepColor and sees advantages on Spears & Munsil patterns? I am very curious what is the consensus on this one. I know JVC DILA guys are passionate about using DeepColor with Oppo 103D/105D but I wonder what does Spears & Munsil says for Sony HW40?
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post #2346 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 10:20 AM
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Hi Guys,

Long time

I'm debating getting this and have a setup question.

I'm aiming to project a 120" diagonal image. The calculator at projectorcentral shows that at unity gain and utilizing no zoom (1.00x) I'd need to hang it at 18' 11". Coming from some photography experience, am I being needlessly reluctant using the zoom? Does the image degrade in anyway if you use the zoom? I mean for example, can I use 1.3x zoom and place it at 14' 7" for a brighter image without any degradation in PQ? Is there such a thing as a free lunch here?

Any answers are highly appreciated.

Insert pithy comment here
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post #2347 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 11:03 AM
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HI Guys..


Pretty sure this has been answered, but can't directly find it. I have been struggling with the internal 3D emitter on the 40ES. Based on my projector sitting in a soffit, the emitter is blocked to the screen, causing my glasses (Sony PlayStation 3D) to lose connection...especially when I am behind the projector (anything from my first row and further back).

Since my kids MUST have 3D...I need to know what emitter works with this projector that I can mount outside the soffit, towards the screen (I assume it must be pointing at the screen and not at the glasses????).

The glasses were not expensive ($10 each on Amazon....I bought 5 pair before Christmas). If I have to use an external emitter that is 100% guaranteed to work with both the projector and the glasses, I am willing to eat the $50 and pony up for new glasses.

However, if anyone knows of an external emitter that works with the Sony 3D PlayStation glasses, I would appreciate it.

Thanks.
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post #2348 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 11:41 AM
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Projector arrived today! Ill check it out and screen scheduled for friday morning delivery.
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post #2349 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corndart View Post
Personally that bend would drive me crazy. Are you using any lens shift? If so, does it still manifest when completely centered? If you've recently purchased, have you considered pursuing an exchange with the retailer?
Mine is the same way. Measure your distance on left side ,middle, and right side. You will see the middle support you have on your screen is pushing the middle out. Otherwise it would be straight.
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post #2350 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by youngdoc View Post
Can you describe the actual (physical) setup? i.e., where does the emitter need to be mounted, how does it work?
My Sony is 14' from screen and I lose sync on my IR ps3 glasses at 16 feet or more. I think that stinks. I bought the addon IR and thought it would extend my distance. It was worse than the built in one. So I had to shift my seats forward to make distance work. I lose sync some times at 16' on nose. By specs Sony says that's the max it will work.
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post #2351 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lespaulman View Post
My Sony is 14' from screen and I lose sync on my IR ps3 glasses at 16 feet or more. I think that stinks. I bought the addon IR and thought it would extend my distance. It was worse than the built in one. So I had to shift my seats forward to make distance work. I lose sync some times at 16' on nose. By specs Sony says that's the max it will work.
What kind of chairs are those?
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post #2352 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverSide View Post
Hi Guys,

Long time

I'm debating getting this and have a setup question.

I'm aiming to project a 120" diagonal image. The calculator at projectorcentral shows that at unity gain and utilizing no zoom (1.00x) I'd need to hang it at 18' 11". Coming from some photography experience, am I being needlessly reluctant using the zoom? Does the image degrade in anyway if you use the zoom? I mean for example, can I use 1.3x zoom and place it at 14' 7" for a brighter image without any degradation in PQ? Is there such a thing as a free lunch here?

Any answers are highly appreciated.
If you read all the pages of this thread (I have), I think you'll find the odd discussion about it but I believe that most people are using zoom to some degree. One of the more obvious issues is that if you don't use zoom, you wind up being a longer way from the screen so the amount of lumens is less than if you were closer and used zoom. This can be a problem for 3D viewing which has it's own issues about lower lumens. Now I think this is more common for larger screen sizes than what you're talking about .. ie. in the 135"+ range but still a consideration. The argument for using too much zoom is that you start to use a larger part of the lens some of which may not be the same quality as the center part .. but I think you'll be hard pressed in this thread to find any definitive proof that it's a real problem as opposed to a theoretical one. This argument also comes into effect if you're planning to use vertical offset, as this also causes the image to be offset from the center of the lens. So, I think the worst case for the lens quality argument would be max zoom and max offset but you may not be planning on any offset either. To my knowledge, Sony has not made any official statements about the effects of zoom or offset .. and there are those who might argue that Sony is offering RC to combat any effects. Based on a back-solve of my situation with the projector calculator, I think I'm running at about 1.22 zoom and 50% offset and getting a great picture without any tweaks to the Reference settings on a 105" diagonal on a dark taupe painted wall in ECO mode. (DIY screen in progress)
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post #2353 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 01:16 PM
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3D RF transmitter and RF glasses

Has anyone tried MonsterVision Max 3D Eyewear System with Active Sync - Glasses and Transmitter Kit for Active 3D?

http://www.amazon.com/MonsterVision-...nc+transmitter

Also, would you think that any RF glasses would work with this transmitter? I hope it doesn't need proprietary Monster glasses.

One of the Amazon reviewer has mentioned them working very well with SONY VPL HW-30.

thanks

Last edited by nupshah; 01-28-2015 at 01:17 PM. Reason: grammar!?
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post #2354 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by KanosWRX View Post
Has anyone mounted one of these Sony projectors in a projector housing on the ceiling? It would be mounted in a box basically attached to the ceiling with a PVC pipe near the back sucking out air to an unfinished area of my basement to keep it cool. My real concern is mounting it right side up near the ceiling. I assume I would have to angle it down so it would display on the screen as it naturally projects up when its right side up, like on a shelf. Will this affect the picture quality? Is it better to mount it upside down on the ceiling? I hate electronic adjustments like keystone as it hurts picture quality.. just wondering if I would have to do that with my mounting placement? Just wondering what everyone recommends.
What size screen and how high will the center of the lens be compared to the top of the image?
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post #2355 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by spentan View Post
Just ordered one of these from Best Buy for 1999, (plus tax).

Didn't wanna end up with a grey import, and couldn't really find it much cheaper (from an Authorised dealer) here in SoCal.

Going to pick it up (in about 12 hours), Last time I played with a projector was at my parents house in Australia (Sony VPLHS60), I think projectors may have come a long way since then.

Also bought an IOGear Wireless HDMI transmitter, hope it works well.

Will update as I go along.
We have 40's in stock and the sale is ending soon.
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post #2356 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by keeper View Post
Just a quick question on the offset of this projector. I have an Optoma hd72 that is ceiling mounted at least 15 inches above the top of the screen. Am I understanding this right that the Sony is limited in that way and should only be mounted in line with the top of the screen? Thanks in advance.
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Originally Posted by Jeff in Canada View Post
Sony is 0.7 screen height shift, so lined up right at the top of the screen is 0.5 shift. so the 15" will depend upon how far back the projector is and how big the screen height is.
The amount of lens shift does not have anything to do with the throw of the projector. Since the vertical lens shift is 0.7, just take the height of the image and multiply by 0.2. That will give you the maximum vertical lens shift. Just keep in mind, if you use any horizontal lens shift, it subtracts from the available amount of vertical lens shift.
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post #2357 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverSide View Post
Hi Guys,

Long time

I'm debating getting this and have a setup question.

I'm aiming to project a 120" diagonal image. The calculator at projectorcentral shows that at unity gain and utilizing no zoom (1.00x) I'd need to hang it at 18' 11". Coming from some photography experience, am I being needlessly reluctant using the zoom? Does the image degrade in anyway if you use the zoom? I mean for example, can I use 1.3x zoom and place it at 14' 7" for a brighter image without any degradation in PQ? Is there such a thing as a free lunch here?

Any answers are highly appreciated.
In theory, long throw means less brightness and maybe sharper image. Short throw means more brightness and maybe a tad less sharp. At long throw the exit image of the projector is smaller and closer to the center of the lens. Typically the center of the lens is the sweet spot, but the edges could be just as good, but could be worse. I usually select mounting location based on brightness needed. If need brightness, move forward. If have excess brightness, move back. Give us a call and we would be happy to answer your questions.
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post #2358 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanR View Post
One of the more obvious issues is that if you don't use zoom, you wind up being a longer way from the screen so the amount of lumens is less than if you were closer and used zoom.
True, and here' something more to consider - from projectorcentral

"With the lamp set to low power, Reference mode still produces over 700 lumens -- enough to light a 120" diagonal 1.0 gain screen at 16.6 fL. The 1.6:1 zoom lens only reduces light output by 18% at the maximum telephoto setting. So even using Reference mode at low power in the back of the room, the HW40ES outputs roughly 590 lumens. If you want to use a 120" screen from that distance, a 1.3-gain surface will boost brightness to just above 16 fL"

So even from the lumens side there is no free lunch I guess. I did read this entire thread (and the settings one) but haven't found much discussion of this. Guess everyone is too excited when they get theirs that they hang it up and start enjoying the picture - sooo not gearhead behavior smh

Which DIY screen are you considering?

Insert pithy comment here
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post #2359 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverSide View Post
"With the lamp set to low power, Reference mode still produces over 700 lumens -- enough to light a 120" diagonal 1.0 gain screen at 16.6 fL. The 1.6:1 zoom lens only reduces light output by 18% at the maximum telephoto setting. So even using Reference mode at low power in the back of the room, the HW40ES outputs roughly 590 lumens. If you want to use a 120" screen from that distance, a 1.3-gain surface will boost brightness to just above 16 fL"

Tks for sharing that .. don't remember seeing it. Seems to suggest that with a 1.3 gain screen, you'd be ok. But don't forget that the quoted lumens is usually measured new and the lumens deteriorate after some early use. Also, 3D lumen values are lower.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverSide View Post
Guess everyone is too excited when they get theirs that they hang it up and start enjoying the picture - sooo not gearhead behavior smh

I think your "smh" is somewhat unfair. The AV Science quote above is the typical response when discussing the quality of the lens because there doesn't seem to be any independent scientific analysis .. Sony is probably the only ones who know for sure and they're not saying. The lens in the UHD projectors is supposedly better quality but then it's probably justified with the extra pixel density and the impact a cheaper lens might have. But there still could be production variations from projector to projector.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverSide View Post
Which DIY screen are you considering?

I'm doing a 1/2" MDF panel painted with the RS-MaxxMudd V2.1 mix which has a long history of improvements and seems to be highly thought of. At the moment, I'm only at the primer stage so too soon to tell but there are some smart dudes on there. See: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/1319717-official-rs-maxxmudd-v-2-mix.html Forgot to mention that the RS-MM-LL version has a gain of about 1.3.

Last edited by IanR; 01-28-2015 at 05:41 PM. Reason: Added the gain info
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post #2360 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 05:46 PM
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What kind of chairs are those?
I can't remember the name they are a couple years old now. Very comfortable. We love them. I wished we had 3 more.
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post #2361 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 05:52 PM
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Just installed mine on a shelf behind the back wall. Going to be shooting at a 10' screen on Wednesday when my setup happens. Are you guys happy with your projector? Did I make the right choice?


TIA
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post #2362 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
What size screen and how high will the center of the lens be compared to the top of the image?
So my projector lens will be about 17 feet from the screen. I plan to have the center of the lens to be right about near the top of the screen, so I think I will have enough lens shift to make that work pretty easily. Its in a completely light controlled room (no windows at all). Screen size is 149" 16:9. At least that's the size I am thinking right now. First row of seats about 13' away.
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post #2363 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 09:43 PM
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Sounds killer!
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post #2364 of 5106 Old 01-28-2015, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by steveko23 View Post
I prefer these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My wife actually liked the PS3 ones better.

I'm looking for some kid sized ones now though. Anyone have thoughts on those?
I just ordered both and received them today! By no means are the PS3 3D super uncomfortable, but I can see how they can be tight/annoying over time with the fact that you can feel them wrapped around your head like a headband, pretty much imagine Regal/AMC Cinema 3D glasses tight. Plus side to the PS3 3D is that they're USB rechargeable. On the other hand the Sony IR compatible IncrediSonics are ridiculously comfortable and light weight to the point to where you might even forget you're wearing them! The IncrediSonics only weigh 1.1 ounces I haven't tested them with 3D as I haven't setup my projector yet, but just on the comfort level IncrediSonics are a must!

Next on my list is ordering the Sony compatible IR rechargeable IncrediSonics, have to find if they're just as comfortable as the normal IncrediSonics.

Last edited by RookieSpeed; 01-28-2015 at 09:56 PM.
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post #2365 of 5106 Old 01-29-2015, 12:39 AM
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3D Glasses: Incredisonic vs. Sony PlayStation. Also: 3D Flicker.

Initial 3D glasses test, projecting onto a white wall from about 6 feet away, watching video for about 20 minutes:

Incredisonic VUE SONY-Compatible Active IR 3D Glasses VSUI1600:
  • Required me to change the projector's 3D Sync setting from "Standard" to "Option".
  • Slightly more crosstalk than the PlayStation 3 glasses.
  • Requires a single CR2025 button cell battery. Comes packaged with one installed and one spare.
  • Main pressure points: weight resting on a trapezoidal arch atop the bridge of my nose, and stems squeezing lightly inward against my head above my ears.
  • Lighter than I would have expected any affordable active glasses to be.
  • Fit over my rectangular wire rim glasses reasonably well.
  • Open sides leave peripheral vision intact. I imagine this will be nice when watching with company.
  • Minimal shape, not terribly imposing.

Sony PlayStation 3 3D Glasses CECH-ZEG1U:
  • Synced with the projector immediately.
  • Slightly less crosstalk than the Incredisonic glasses.
  • Rechargeable via micro USB!
  • Battery disconnect switch, presumably to minimize discharge when not in use.
  • Main pressure points: weight resting on a rounded arc atop the bridge of my nose, and stem ends squeezing inward against my head behind my ears.
  • Heavier than I would like, but not surprisingly so. Definitely lighter than they look.
  • Fit over my rectangular wire rim glasses reasonably well.
  • Hood-like top and sides block light from above and obstruct peripheral vision. Maybe helpful for fighting ambient light?
  • Boxy shape, like a 1980s Volvo station wagon.

Comfort is important to me, so I expect to use the Incredisonic glasses most of the time. However, since they let through a little more crosstalk than the Sony glasses, I might end up changing my mind when watching crosstalk-prone content.

The Sony glasses seem likely to make me uncomfortable before long, since I'm pretty sensitive to weight on my nose and pressure against my skull. I imagine they would be okay for people who are not bothered by heavy reading glasses. I really like the rechargeable battery and physical off switch, though, and they made crosstalk slightly less pronounced than the Incredisonic model.

I'll probably keep both.

My main problem in 3D: Flicker.

There is a very irritating flicker with both brands of glasses, at least when watching 24fps content at 24Hz display rate. Do people actually watch entire films this way? I don't think I could tolerate it.

Someone suggested that the flicker might be caused by the black frame insertion performed by the projector's Film Mode. Nope; that's not it. The Film Mode option is not available during 3D playback, and I already have it disabled for 2D. It was also suggested that enabling the Motion Enhancer might help. Nope; the Motion Enhancer settings make no difference. It's worth noting that I see the flicker even when playback is paused, so any setting that plays with what gets displayed between frames of the source content probably isn't going to help.

Reducing the 3D Glasses Brightness setting makes the flicker a bit less painful in bright scenes, but doesn't fix it.

The flicker seemed to be reduced when I forced my video player to output a 60Hz signal, but since I typically notice motion jitter when content frame rate and display refresh rate are mismatched, I don't expect this to be a viable solution. Is there some other way to reduce flicker for 24fps content?

Last edited by forest; 01-29-2015 at 11:23 PM.
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post #2366 of 5106 Old 01-29-2015, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by lespaulman View Post
Mine is the same way. Measure your distance on left side ,middle, and right side. You will see the middle support you have on your screen is pushing the middle out. Otherwise it would be straight.
Done that and screen is OK
Bend still there on min zoom halfway up screen. Also projected on to wall and checked with straight edge.
It's definately a lens issue. Which apparently is plastic in cheaper Sony models like this and not glass as I expected.
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post #2367 of 5106 Old 01-29-2015, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by nupshah View Post
Has anyone tried MonsterVision Max 3D Eyewear System with Active Sync - Glasses and Transmitter Kit for Active 3D?

http://www.amazon.com/MonsterVision-...nc+transmitter

Also, would you think that any RF glasses would work with this transmitter? I hope it doesn't need proprietary Monster glasses.

One of the Amazon reviewer has mentioned them working very well with SONY VPL HW-30.

thanks
Yes, it worked but it's not compatible with all rf glasses. It only works with the monsters and particular compatible glasses.
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post #2368 of 5106 Old 01-29-2015, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forest View Post
Initial 3D glasses test, projecting onto a white wall from about 6 feet away, watching video for about 20 minutes:

Incredisonic VUE SONY-Compatible Active IR 3D Glasses VSUI1600:
  • Required me to change the projector's 3D Sync setting from "Standard" to "Option".
  • Requires a single CR2025 button cell battery. Comes packaged with one installed and one spare.
  • Main pressure points: weight resting on a trapezoidal arch atop the bridge of my nose, and stems squeezing lightly inward against my head above my ears.
  • Lighter than I would have expected any affordable active glasses to be.
  • Fit over my rectangular wire rim glasses reasonably well.
  • Open sides leave peripheral vision intact. I imagine this will be nice when watching with company.
  • Minimal shape, not terribly imposing.

Sony PlayStation 3 3D Glasses CECH-ZEG1U:
  • Synced with the projector immediately.
  • Rechargeable via micro USB!
  • Battery disconnect switch, presumably to minimize discharge when not in use.
  • Main pressure points: weight resting on a rounded arc atop the bridge of my nose, and stem ends squeezing inward against my head behind my ears.
  • Heavier than I would like, but not surprisingly so. Definitely lighter than they look.
  • Fit over my rectangular wire rim glasses reasonably well.
  • Hood-like top and sides block light from above and obstruct peripheral vision. Maybe helpful for fighting ambient light?
  • Boxy shape, like a 1980s Volvo station wagon.

Comfort is most important to me, so I expect to use the Incredisonic glasses most of the time. (That is, assuming the flicker problem can be reduced enough to make 3D content watchable at all. See below.)

The Sony glasses seem likely to make me uncomfortable before long, since I'm pretty sensitive to weight on my nose and pressure against my skull. I imagine they would be okay for people who are not bothered by heavy reading glasses. I really like the rechargeable battery and physical off switch, though. Since they're so cheap, I'll probably keep a pair as backups in case I run out of batteries for the Incredisonic glasses.

My main problem in 3D: Flicker.

There is a very irritating flicker with both brands of glasses, at least when watching 24fps content at 24Hz display rate. Do people actually watch entire films this way? I don't think I could tolerate it.

The flicker seemed to be reduced when I forced my video player to output a 60Hz signal, but since I typically notice motion jitter when content frame rate and display refresh rate are mismatched, I don't expect this to be a viable solution. Is there some other way to reduce flicker for 24fps content?
Since I got my Sony I never ever seen flicker in my 3D. I run motion enhancer on high. Make sure you have that film option thing turned off, that is what it does makes it look like a real movie with light flickering.

I use a MX3 box set on 1080p 24 and you want to talk about streaming 3d sbs looks as good as orig disk. With motion enhancer on high.
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post #2369 of 5106 Old 01-29-2015, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
In theory, long throw means less brightness and maybe sharper image. Short throw means more brightness and maybe a tad less sharp. At long throw the exit image of the projector is smaller and closer to the center of the lens. Typically the center of the lens is the sweet spot, but the edges could be just as good, but could be worse. I usually select mounting location based on brightness needed. If need brightness, move forward. If have excess brightness, move back. Give us a call and we would be happy to answer your questions.
Thanks for the detailed answer. I agree with the practical method of mounting you described. I was just wondering if any test sites ever did such comparisons of how much PQ/sharpness etc. are we sacrificing using zooms on projectors. Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it!

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post #2370 of 5106 Old 01-29-2015, 11:32 AM
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Vertical Shift

I'm trying to check my math before buying either the Sony HW40es or the Epson 6030.

The documentation states (https://docs.sony.com/release/VPLHW4...D=A:6155355:CJ) that the vertical lens shift is 0.71

If my screen height is 60" (60 * .71 = 42.6), can this projector really be mounted anywhere from 42" BELOW the screen, all the way up to 42" above the screen?

Why is there NO perfect equipment, only compromises?
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