Epson 5010/6010 'Cinema filter Error', grinding noise, red light fix with pics - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 190 Old 01-29-2015, 11:15 AM
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When my cinema filter first caused the double red light blink, I took it all apart, down to the gear motors, didn't see anything bound up, and put it all back together. It worked for about 2 months. Then it happened again. This time, the plastic gears ARE broken. Which is making me think there is something binding up the motion of the cinema filter gate. Why else would the plastic gears break? Does anybody know what could cause that gate to bind up?


I tried your metal poulolo motor fix... it was *very* difficult to machine down the spindle, and when I did, it was off-center. When I tried activating it w/ 6 volts, 1 time out of 5 the motor would bind up and not turn, I'm not sure what was causing the bind up, but that sure aint going back into the projector. On the off chance I did something to put stress on the motor gears while filing down the spindle, I ordered 4 more motors, and I'm going to try to machine a different collet to put on top of the spindle, and leave the spindle pretty much alone. I don't know how this will work, but if I get it to work, I'll post pictures.


The other thing I'm thinking is that the gate gets to full stroke before the electronics shut the motor down via the limit switch at the end of travel, and for a split second, the motor is still turning, and binds up the gears. I'm thinking perhaps the clutch plate/spring is/was too tight on the gear. It should only require the smallest amount of force to move that gate back and forth.


Is it possible for somebody to write a "cinema filter delete" option for a firmware mod, that would allow us all to remove the filter and get on with our lives?
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post #32 of 190 Old 01-29-2015, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashyt16 View Post
You can't. The pj goes through a startup sequence which cycles the CF, this activates 2 micro switches. If these dont get activated in the right sequence then the pj shuts down.

Just wanted to thank you for taking the time re. the gear replacement. Appreciate it!


Ed
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post #33 of 190 Old 01-30-2015, 01:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erichfrazer View Post
When my cinema filter first caused the double red light blink, I took it all apart, down to the gear motors, didn't see anything bound up, and put it all back together. It worked for about 2 months. Then it happened again. This time, the plastic gears ARE broken. Which is making me think there is something binding up the motion of the cinema filter gate. Why else would the plastic gears break? Does anybody know what could cause that gate to bind up?


I tried your metal poulolo motor fix... it was *very* difficult to machine down the spindle, and when I did, it was off-center. When I tried activating it w/ 6 volts, 1 time out of 5 the motor would bind up and not turn, I'm not sure what was causing the bind up, but that sure aint going back into the projector. On the off chance I did something to put stress on the motor gears while filing down the spindle, I ordered 4 more motors, and I'm going to try to machine a different collet to put on top of the spindle, and leave the spindle pretty much alone. I don't know how this will work, but if I get it to work, I'll post pictures.


The other thing I'm thinking is that the gate gets to full stroke before the electronics shut the motor down via the limit switch at the end of travel, and for a split second, the motor is still turning, and binds up the gears. I'm thinking perhaps the clutch plate/spring is/was too tight on the gear. It should only require the smallest amount of force to move that gate back and forth.


Is it possible for somebody to write a "cinema filter delete" option for a firmware mod, that would allow us all to remove the filter and get on with our lives?
Your binding was probably due to the off centre spindle.
You may be able to drill out the collet to fit the spindle, but it would be close.
As regards the cinema filter binding, it moves quite freely so that is not the problem. As you have noticed the motor sometimes runs on before the switches stop the motor which is why I said to ensure the clutch is able to slip easily.
This will prevent strain on the gear box.
As for why the plastic gears fail, the final gears are under a tremendous amount of stress due to the high amount of torque these little gear boxes can produce.
Basically they are not fit for purpose.
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post #34 of 190 Old 01-30-2015, 11:33 PM
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seems to me it'd be beneficial is somebody (epson) released a F/W that had a cinema filter delete mod in it, for those who don't give a sh*t about the cinema filter, compared to losing the investment in a $3000+ projector.

the idea of using a metal gearbox is *great* (I wouldn't have thought of it, or of modding my bracket), but I went ahead and got the Poulolo gearbox, and tried the above instructions. A couple of big issues: 1: it's extremely hard, if not impossible, to grind that spindle down. I ordered 5 of the gearboxes, knowing I'd get it wrong. On gearbox #1 , the spindle was ground down unevenly AND I put the screws in too far to mount it to the bracket, and they bunged up the gears, and even when I backed them out, the spindle didn't turn smoothly. On motor try #2 , I put the motor itself into a lathe, and spun it, and put a dremel w/ a cutting head onto a bracket and "turned" the spindle, cutting it down to size. Went a little bit too far, and presto, a little bit too far is too far. I could have used it, but... instead of cutting down the spindle, why not grind out the brass collet? For try #3 , that's what I did. I used a 2.998mm drill bit (I had that size, don't know why), I put the brass spindle (collet?) thing into a vice clamp and drilled exactly on center down about 1/4". It was tricky, trying to figure out how far to drill. First I assembled the old pieces and drew a line on the old motor drive shaft where it met up w/ the spindle. then, I measured that w/ calipers from the base of the motor, then drew that line on the new motor shaft. That told me how far I had to drill into the brass. Once I drilled out the brass, the poulolo motor fit right in there. Instead of doing anything fancy, or using JB weld, which I think almost always breaks free over time, I put the brass spindle in place and heated it up w/ a small hobby torch, on the far end.

I put silver solder on the other end, and when the brass got just hot enough, it sucked that solder in via some kind of wicking mechanism and filled up the channel.

Be sure to wire the red wire to the + terminal on your new gearbox.

I think the reason my last repair didn't last was because the clutch was on way too tight, and I think Epson has a problem that the microswitch triggers, but the motor doesn't stop spinning until a couple revs later, and counts on the clutch for allowing slop. If the clutch is too tight - bang go your gears, pure and simple. If this is the case, even metal gears won't fix the problem, they'll grind too. The trick is probably to loosen your clutch until it provides only enough push to move that cinema filter back and forth, but no more. I'm tempted to put a force gauge on the cinema filter and test how many PSI it requires to move. I bet it's next to nothing, and the clutch is set up for 1000's of times more pressure than is needed!
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post #35 of 190 Old 02-23-2015, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erichfrazer View Post
seems to me it'd be beneficial is somebody (epson) released a F/W that had a cinema filter delete mod in it, for those who don't give a sh*t about the cinema filter, compared to losing the investment in a $3000+ projector.

the idea of using a metal gearbox is *great* (I wouldn't have thought of it, or of modding my bracket), but I went ahead and got the Poulolo gearbox, and tried the above instructions. A couple of big issues: 1: it's extremely hard, if not impossible, to grind that spindle down. I ordered 5 of the gearboxes, knowing I'd get it wrong. On gearbox #1 , the spindle was ground down unevenly AND I put the screws in too far to mount it to the bracket, and they bunged up the gears, and even when I backed them out, the spindle didn't turn smoothly. On motor try #2 , I put the motor itself into a lathe, and spun it, and put a dremel w/ a cutting head onto a bracket and "turned" the spindle, cutting it down to size. Went a little bit too far, and presto, a little bit too far is too far. I could have used it, but... instead of cutting down the spindle, why not grind out the brass collet? For try #3 , that's what I did. I used a 2.998mm drill bit (I had that size, don't know why), I put the brass spindle (collet?) thing into a vice clamp and drilled exactly on center down about 1/4". It was tricky, trying to figure out how far to drill. First I assembled the old pieces and drew a line on the old motor drive shaft where it met up w/ the spindle. then, I measured that w/ calipers from the base of the motor, then drew that line on the new motor shaft. That told me how far I had to drill into the brass. Once I drilled out the brass, the poulolo motor fit right in there. Instead of doing anything fancy, or using JB weld, which I think almost always breaks free over time, I put the brass spindle in place and heated it up w/ a small hobby torch, on the far end.

I put silver solder on the other end, and when the brass got just hot enough, it sucked that solder in via some kind of wicking mechanism and filled up the channel.

Be sure to wire the red wire to the + terminal on your new gearbox.

I think the reason my last repair didn't last was because the clutch was on way too tight, and I think Epson has a problem that the microswitch triggers, but the motor doesn't stop spinning until a couple revs later, and counts on the clutch for allowing slop. If the clutch is too tight - bang go your gears, pure and simple. If this is the case, even metal gears won't fix the problem, they'll grind too. The trick is probably to loosen your clutch until it provides only enough push to move that cinema filter back and forth, but no more. I'm tempted to put a force gauge on the cinema filter and test how many PSI it requires to move. I bet it's next to nothing, and the clutch is set up for 1000's of times more pressure than is needed!
Congrats on the mod! you are totally correct about the clutch being too tight. The switches don't stop the filter before it reaches its end of travel.
The clutch only just needs to be tight enough as the filter moves relatively easily.

As for failure I very much doubt the metal gears would fail even if the clutch was too tight. They are much stronger and designed for high torque applications.

It's a pity you didn't document your progress, which would have helped others.

Regarding removing the filter altogether with a modified firmware. The filter does a good job, the mistake Epson made was constantly cylcling the filter at every switch on and off. This puts unecessay wear and tear on the mechanism.
Unless you select a different mode that filter should stay where is is.

Last edited by ashyt16; 02-23-2015 at 10:49 AM.
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post #36 of 190 Old 03-28-2015, 04:27 PM
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Perfect solution -> i fixed my EPSON EH-TW3500 with this mod.

Thx a lot

i use a metalic-gear box out of a laserprinter (nihon mini-motor) which runs at 6V ... i checked the polariry and in my case i have to switch the cables. Original Motor runs CCW and my mini-motor runs CW.

For the Searchengine:
* cinema-filter stops moving in the middle of the track
* both LEDs flashing red (temp and lamp)
* all fans going to full power

The same Cinema-filter is build in EH-TW2900 EH-TW3200 EH-TW3500 as far as i know
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post #37 of 190 Old 03-29-2015, 09:16 AM
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Pictures of my fix:




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post #38 of 190 Old 03-31-2015, 04:45 PM
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Question

@ashyt16 First, thank you so very much for this awesome guide, and link. I really appreciate the time you spent making this!

I've got a very similar projector, the Epson 8350, and it's doing basically the same thing yours was. Only, I'm not positive the cause is the same. My cinema filter isn't making a grinding noise and if I run the projector with the cover off and lamp out, it actuates as I believe is expected. I actually wonder if I have a thermal switch issue. I was wondering if you could please, take a look at my post here:
The Offical Epson 8350 Owners Thread

And let me know about the things I listed there? Since you've had these projector tore all the way down, you're one of only a few people who I think may actually be to answer my questions. I appreciate any and all feedback you can provide!

Harman Kardon AVR 254 ● Energy Connoisseur C-7 ● Epson PowerLite 8350 ● 100" DIY WA DW w/ 80/20 frame
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post #39 of 190 Old 06-02-2015, 11:08 AM
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Yes indeed, this helped me a lot.

Unfortunately my 5030UB has the same issue. I can't believe Epson has used the same part once again. I ordered the metal gear motor and planing to replace the original.

All I can say is you are awesome, without your post I might have thrown away my $2500 dream machine.

Thanks a lot once again!
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post #40 of 190 Old 06-10-2015, 10:18 AM
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Mine started doing thing grinding noise at startup once or twice on every 10 startup.
Epson is sending me a refurbished unit since they do not offer repair in Canada.

My question is: how good are refurbished unit from Epson and should I just pay 100$ to have the gear replaced for a metal one in an authorized epson repair center knowing that my unit is out of warranty working perfectly fine except for the grinding noise?
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post #41 of 190 Old 06-10-2015, 09:14 PM
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EPSON 5030UB Cinema Filter Error Fixed

Thank you for sharing your experience. EPSON has done the same mistake in 5030UB. Your "red wire should go to +..." was very helpful. In the original wiring red goes to (-)
Thank you again. I really appreciate

-M00sila

[quote=erichfrazer;31341202]seems to me it'd be beneficial is somebody (epson) released a F/W that had a cinema filter delete mod in it, for those who don't give a sh*t about the cinema filter, compared to losing the investment in a $3000+ projector.
....
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post #42 of 190 Old 06-10-2015, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashyt16 View Post
Congrats on the mod! you are totally correct about the clutch being too tight. The switches don't stop the filter before it reaches its end of travel.
The clutch only just needs to be tight enough as the filter moves relatively easily.

As for failure I very much doubt the metal gears would fail even if the clutch was too tight. They are much stronger and designed for high torque applications.

It's a pity you didn't document your progress, which would have helped others.

Regarding removing the filter altogether with a modified firmware. The filter does a good job, the mistake Epson made was constantly cylcling the filter at every switch on and off. This puts unecessay wear and tear on the mechanism.
Unless you select a different mode that filter should stay where is is.
Thank you for sharing your experience. It really helped me to fix mine - EPSON 5030UB

-Mahesh
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post #43 of 190 Old 06-24-2015, 09:45 PM
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Had my 5020UB die about 3 weeks ago from what appears to be this same issue, about 5 months out of warranty.

Authorized service center claimed that it was the optical engine and various quotes ranging from $800-$1600 were batted around. Luckily there was no charge for them to look at it other than the 25 minute drive to get there.

Tonight I disassembled the unit and found that the plastic gear looks almost identical to the ones pictured in this thread with the missing tooth.

I've ordered the metal gear box, I'm hoping to be able to pull off the mod. Does anyone have a source for possibly getting a replacement brass collet? Seems that boring out the spindle is likely easier than filing down the motor shaft (especially with the flat side) but with no likely replacement for the collet is seems that either route might be fraught with peril, but at least I can buy another gear assembly if there's no source for the brass collet. Of course for the repair price quoted I can mess up 40 of the new motors before I hit the $800 mark, just might take quite a bit of time...
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post #44 of 190 Old 06-25-2015, 10:56 AM
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Has anyone considered using a tap and die to thread the motor shaft and brass collet for the metal gear mod?
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post #45 of 190 Old 07-01-2015, 10:16 PM
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I finished the mod on my Epson 5020UB on Monday night. Some pictures attached.

First is of the main board, 2 main things to note:
  • There is a Main Board screw under a plastic flap at the rear of the main board (if lens is considered the front)
  • The wired cables on the right (if lens is front) are best labeled as you remove them to keep them straight.

I took apart the projector to diagnose the issue, then put it back together to protect from dust. Once I got the Polalu motor I had already disassembled for the second time to speed the repair.

I tried clamping the motor and using a file with a wedge setup to let the motor grind the shaft and incrementally increase the file pressure without me having to do it by hand. This was taking forever and I got impatient quickly. Luckily I had a drill bit that was larger than the ground down shaft but smaller than the unground shaft so I drilled out the brass covet and attached it to the motor with a 2 part epoxy.

Once the whole thing was back together it would once again power on but I had issues with red and green spots due to dust in the optical engine.

Disassembly #3 allowed me to use my lungs and got rid of the red spot but not the green. I was prepared to live with the green since it would have been in less noticeable location once mounted on the ceiling but tried one last time with a can of compressed air and only the top cover off. I disconnected the green ribbon cable and blew the air on both sides and anywhere else I could reach and the spot went away.

Thank you for this thread, spent a lot of my labor on this but only $42 in parts/tools and was probably looking at close to $1k if I wanted to get it fixed, or to buy a lower quality projector for the media room. Either way this thread managed to save me about $950, if only the wife would let me choose what to spend the savings on.
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post #46 of 190 Old 07-16-2015, 09:42 AM
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I'm not having the same issue being discussed in this thread, but I'm hoping someone can shed some light on the projector startup sequence. I have an intermittent problem where the projector starts up fine, picture is fine, and then after watching for a period of time the lamp turns off, and the blue lights flash. At that point, turning it back on usually results in this:

1. Blue light flashes
2. 30 seconds later I hear something firing up and the fan kicks on
3. A second or two later, the fan shuts back off and the blue flashing light stays forever.

This occurs regardless of whether I've let the projector cool down, unplugged, etc. Most of the time, after trying, unplugging, etc for about 45 min or so, it just decides to work, and I'm OK for up to a week. On one occasion, I went through the process for a couple of days before I finally got it to come back on. To me, it really sounds like a temperature sensor or something like that, but the overheat indicator never comes on. Anyway, hoping one of the techies would be able to interpret the "3 steps to failure" listed above and be able to pinpoint where the startup is failing. This was a refurb unit that I only had for about 3 months when the problem started, but I was out of my warranty period and Epson offered no assistance (was my 4th refurb over the 2 years).

Anyway, don't want to hijack this thread, but seems like some good technical folks monitor this one. Not much activity in the official thread anymore.
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post #47 of 190 Old 08-04-2015, 02:20 PM
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Hi,

Can anyone confirm whether this same issue affects the Epson TW3200. I've had mine for just over three years, 688 hours use. Getting grinding noise on startup followed by either the red lights or the "Error in the Epson Cinema Filter" message.

Have had two entirely pointless exchanges with Epson Customer Services during which they've claimed there isn't a known issue with the cinema filter on the TW3200 and then quoted me a repair price that is only slightly lower than the current price on Amazon UK for a TW5200. Definitely won't be paying that repair price or buying another Epson projector...

Assuming that the cause is the the motor gearbox, does anyone know if the stripdown is broadly similar to that outlined in these forum threads?

Any guidance much appreciated.

Thanks,

Tony
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post #48 of 190 Old 08-23-2015, 08:14 AM
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I experienced the cinema filter error in December 2014 (related post above in this thread) and had my unit repaired under warranty and returned (vs. taking a refurb). No problems until last night when the following began:

  1. Power on.
  2. Blue light flashes for ~10 sec.
  3. Fan comes on high for ~4 sec.
  4. Both red lights begin flashing and fan stops.
  5. Unit sits indefinitely with red lights flashing until put back in standby mode.

There was NO grinding at the point of failure last night, and there has been none on attempted power ups since then. I cannot say for sure that there was no grinding noise on the last successful power up two nights ago (there was noise in the room at that time). But IIRC with the cinema filter failure I experienced previously, there was a grinding noise on every attempted power up from the time the problem began. So I believe this may be a different problem.

Has anyone experienced the cinema filter error with NO grinding noise on initial failure or afterward?

I am still barely under warranty and the unit came back to me from previous repair with a small blue dot that appears intermittently during dark scenes, so I think I'm going to pursue sending it back in to Epson.

Thanks,
DeaconDan

Last edited by DeaconDan; 08-23-2015 at 01:46 PM.
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post #49 of 190 Old 09-01-2015, 09:05 AM
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Hi guys,

Long time lurker, and don't really post as much as I would like.

For the last month of so, I ended up getting the grinding noise on Startup from my 5020UB projector. While the unit still turns on, for now, its grinding more and more when the unit powers on. With College football season around the corner, its time to take action.

I found this thread, and not sure I wanted to go down the path of installing the metal spindle into the projector.

Instead, I decided to get a whole new motor from an EPSON supply company. Specifically Compass Micro. The part number is: 145266 "Motor CF Assy" - $ 31.32 plus 5 dollars shipping.

It is a special order part, but they have many in stock.

I just wanted a "plug and play" method of fixing this issue. I'm sure this new part will eventually have some of the problems that the original motor has, by then I'm sure it will be time for an upgrade anyway. Since the other motor is already around 15 bucks plus shipping, it seemed like a no brainer just to put in a new OEM motor. I will be using some high temp grease on the spindles before installing the new part into the projector. Also give it a good cleaning while I'm in there.

I love the 5020ub, and I was fearing the worst. Thank you to the OP of this thread for all the info. I'm hoping I can help others by providing this info if they want to go down the same route I did with my repair.

Thank you.
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post #50 of 190 Old 09-04-2015, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gormo66 View Post
Hi guys,

Long time lurker, and don't really post as much as I would like.

For the last month of so, I ended up getting the grinding noise on Startup from my 5020UB projector. While the unit still turns on, for now, its grinding more and more when the unit powers on. With College football season around the corner, its time to take action.

I found this thread, and not sure I wanted to go down the path of installing the metal spindle into the projector.

Instead, I decided to get a whole new motor from an EPSON supply company. Specifically Compass Micro. The part number is: 145266 "Motor CF Assy" - $ 31.32 plus 5 dollars shipping.

It is a special order part, but they have many in stock.

I just wanted a "plug and play" method of fixing this issue. I'm sure this new part will eventually have some of the problems that the original motor has, by then I'm sure it will be time for an upgrade anyway. Since the other motor is already around 15 bucks plus shipping, it seemed like a no brainer just to put in a new OEM motor. I will be using some high temp grease on the spindles before installing the new part into the projector. Also give it a good cleaning while I'm in there.

I love the 5020ub, and I was fearing the worst. Thank you to the OP of this thread for all the info. I'm hoping I can help others by providing this info if they want to go down the same route I did with my repair.

Thank you.
I searched for a direct OEM motor like you mentioned but came up with nothing. I too feared it would eventually have the same failure.

However, I just finished doing this mod on my 8350. It was not difficult and haven't had any issues...but it's only day 3. My mindset was it is already broken so what more damage could I do? I found the Pololu motor at my local Microcenter for $14.99. The most difficult part was removing the brass collet(?) from the old motor. I ended up drilling out the spindle of the old motor. I then drilled out the collet instead of grinding down the new spindle, only took a few seconds. Epoxied everything together.
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post #51 of 190 Old 09-21-2015, 12:46 PM
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I have an 8350 that I would love to fix with this mod, but I'm nervous I might screw something up. If any of you that have performed this on a 8350 have pics of their mod please share. Thanks
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post #52 of 190 Old 09-21-2015, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpowell30 View Post
I have an 8350 that I would love to fix with this mod, but I'm nervous I might screw something up. If any of you that have performed this on a 8350 have pics of their mod please share. Thanks
Are you sure this is the problem you're having? I haven't seen this on a 8350 yet. What exactly are your symptoms?

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post #53 of 190 Old 09-21-2015, 06:47 PM
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When I turn on the unit. I hear a grinding sound. Then both lights blink red. Pretty much like most of the symptoms above. See the comment just above my original post...
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post #54 of 190 Old 09-27-2015, 09:35 PM
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Same grinding, error on 8350

Quote:
Originally Posted by Protonus View Post
Are you sure this is the problem you're having? I haven't seen this on a 8350 yet. What exactly are your symptoms?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpowell30 View Post
When I turn on the unit. I hear a grinding sound. Then both lights blink red. Pretty much like most of the symptoms above. See the comment just above my original post...
Hey Protonus and rpowell30,
I have an 8350 that worked great for a few hundred hours, then suddenly nothing but grinding and light flashing incapacitation...

I wonder if you have tried the fix on your 8350? (replacing the motor and gear assembly using the Pololu link referenced by the amazing Ashyt16)

I am ready to buy a couple of motors and set about dismantling the projector – What other choice do I have, besides the garbage can? – But would be great to have more information of this procedure and my actual model... THANKS!
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post #55 of 190 Old 09-28-2015, 07:53 AM
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Cool

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Originally Posted by shermfoos View Post
Hey Protonus and rpowell30,
I have an 8350 that worked great for a few hundred hours, then suddenly nothing but grinding and light flashing incapacitation...

I wonder if you have tried the fix on your 8350? (replacing the motor and gear assembly using the Pololu link referenced by the amazing Ashyt16)

I am ready to buy a couple of motors and set about dismantling the projector – What other choice do I have, besides the garbage can? – But would be great to have more information of this procedure and my actual model... THANKS!
Hi @shermfoos and @rpowell30 - I haven't had to do this fix (cinema filter aka CF) because it wasn't an issue on my PJ. I found this thread looking for info on repairing Epson PJ's, but my 8350's issue ended up being a dead main exhaust fan (the large axial fan right in front of the lamp assembly that blows out towards the front). You can read about my repair of that, in these two posts - including pictures of the 8350, and a diagram I made showing the names/locations of the various components inside the 8350.

Those posts are here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...l#post33269161
and here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...l#post33273697

I would highly recommend running your unit with the lid off (you'll need to set a weight on the lamp housing safety switch), and seeing if you have a fan that isn't working, before you assume the CF is your issue. Before the PJ shuts off from the fan not working (the fan is a monitored, 3 wire fan so it knows when it isn't spinning), the last thing you usually hear is the CF moving back and forth, making you assume it could be a problem with the filter, but it isn't (The CF makes a sort of "grindy" noise even when it's working OK). It then flashes the lights as you describe and turns off. For a long time, I assumed what was wrong with my PJ was NOT the fan, given the symptoms (I even thought it was a temp sensor for a while). But in the end, it was just that fan.

If it was a CF issue, I would expect that at least once, you'd see an onscreen, cinema filter error before it turns off. I think it's also a lot more likely a fan died, than the filter. Also, the 8350 is newer (and better designed) than the PJ's this thread is about. I haven't heard about a CF motor problem in an 8350 yet.

Even if it is the CF, before I assume there is a dead drive assembly/motor/gear problem like this thread describes - I would look to the limit switches FIRST (the limit switches are labeled in the diagram I made, in the post I linked to above). They're a lot more likely to be the issue IMHO. If one of the switches goes bad, then the PJ will think the cinema filter isn't moving and throw an error for it. Also, a lack of lubrication, or dirty slide, etc, could cause the CF to not slide properly and hit the limit switch. The limit switches are very easy to check with a multi meter.

Lastly, repairing a PJ, especially if you're not used to working inside complex electronics, can be very intimidating and frustrating. Having had my 8350 open several times, I am very confident in working on it now. I also repair electronics for friends (and friends of friends) of mine all the time, enough that I created a "fan page" for people to follow my work:
https://www.facebook.com/jimsrepairbench

You'll notice the cover image on that page, is actually a photo of one of the first times I had my 8350 apart (I've since upgraded my bench many times over)!

I mention this, in case you'd like to not have to do this yourself. There are precious few independent repair shops that will do component level diagnostics of a PJ, less that specialize in Epson, and even fewer that are intimately familiar with the 8350 as I am. If you ship me your 8350 (I'm in Rochester, NY) I'd be happy to take a look at it. I don't charge for diagnostic time if I'm asked to perform a repair, and I can let you know exactly what I find is wrong with it and get you a quote on the repair before doing it. I guarantee you my quote will be far less than anyone else - this isn't my full time job, just a hobby.

You'll want your original packing materials for the PJ ideally to ship it. If you don't have yours, I still have mine, and I could ship you my box to use. LMK if you're interested.

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post #56 of 190 Old 09-29-2015, 03:35 PM
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@Protonus , Thanks for the suggestions, links to your other repair posts, and the offer to help me out! I plan to do some more investigation and troubleshooting here to see how far I can get. The info I have so far might get me through, and I am pretty confident I can replace a fan if I can determine that is the issue. If not, I do have the original box, and will be asking for your shipping address. I'll start by taking the damn thing off the ceiling
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post #57 of 190 Old 09-29-2015, 03:36 PM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by shermfoos View Post
@Protonus , Thanks for the suggestions, links to your other repair posts, and the offer to help me out! I plan to do some more investigation and troubleshooting here to see how far I can get. The info I have so far might get me through, and I am pretty confident I can replace a fan if I can determine that is the issue. If not, I do have the original box, and will be asking for your shipping address. I'll start by taking the damn thing off the ceiling
I wish you the best of luck with everything, LMK if you need further assistance!

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post #58 of 190 Old 10-01-2015, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shermfoos View Post
Hey Protonus and rpowell30,
I have an 8350 that worked great for a few hundred hours, then suddenly nothing but grinding and light flashing incapacitation...

I wonder if you have tried the fix on your 8350? (replacing the motor and gear assembly using the Pololu link referenced by the amazing Ashyt16)

I am ready to buy a couple of motors and set about dismantling the projector – What other choice do I have, besides the garbage can? – But would be great to have more information of this procedure and my actual model... THANKS!

Actually I just finished the repair myself (with a bit of tech support from Protonus). I found that Compass Micro carries the OEM cinema filter assembly motor (#1452666) for about $45 shipped. All said and done, it took about an hour and a half to complete, but it's up and running and looks as good as new. Let me know if you have any questions and good luck!
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post #59 of 190 Old 10-02-2015, 10:33 AM
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Test Cinema filter motor

I have a 5020UB with red blinks. I started to take the projector apart, Before I removed the optical part I got the idea to power the motor while it is still mounted to test if the gear would turn. I cut an USB cable and powered it from an USB power bank and connected the red and black to the terminals of the motor and the gear started to spin freely. reversed the polarity and it turned the other way.

Also I fired it up with the top off and I can see the cinema filter is moving before the red blinks are coming on. Here is a link to the video showing the movement. http://www.filedropper.com/2015-10-02151209


Can I safely assume my problem is something else?

Last edited by CheapB; 10-02-2015 at 01:12 PM.
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post #60 of 190 Old 10-04-2015, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlambermont View Post
I'm not having the same issue being discussed in this thread, but I'm hoping someone can shed some light on the projector startup sequence. I have an intermittent problem where the projector starts up fine, picture is fine, and then after watching for a period of time the lamp turns off, and the blue lights flash. At that point, turning it back on usually results in this:

1. Blue light flashes
2. 30 seconds later I hear something firing up and the fan kicks on
3. A second or two later, the fan shuts back off and the blue flashing light stays forever.



Anyway, don't want to hijack this thread, but seems like some good technical folks monitor this one. Not much activity in the official thread anymore.
Did you ever figure out the boot sequence? Especially what comes after the CF test? My sitution is: After the CF test the lens cover opens and the lamp lights up for less than a sec and then I get red blink. Same w/o the lamp in

Last edited by CheapB; 10-04-2015 at 09:36 AM.
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