Epson 5010/6010 'Cinema filter Error', grinding noise, red light fix with pics - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #121 of 190 Old 01-16-2017, 11:28 AM
 
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Ok, after some looking up part numbers vs part placement I see that, at least on the 8350 and 8345 models, that 150426 corresponds to location B0480 in the exploded view (page 3) for the 8350. The only thing that looks like it could also be the right filter would be at location E0070 (on page 4), but I can't find any parts that correspond to that.

It's not too expensive so I'm going to try ordering a couple. (in case I decide to go passive 3D or break one).
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post #122 of 190 Old 01-17-2017, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by RLBURNSIDE View Post
Thanks for this, but I'm trying to verify if part number 1508426 is actually the cinema filter glass itself, and looking at the exploded parts doesn't offer any clue because the part numbers are all different from expected. I can't find 1508426 in either the tw5200 (8350) nor the 6010 nor the 6040. All the parts in this exploded view start with B00...something and that's not right.
Hi, I just googled "Epson 1508426" every hit that seem relevant refers to this as
"CF frame assembly" so I'm thinking it's more than just the glass (or is just the frame Assy with no glass?). I did see it for as little as $21 dollars though so not a huge risk I guess.
Hoping I don't need one of these but I haven't opened up my PJ yet......so let us know...
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post #123 of 190 Old 01-17-2017, 10:03 AM
 
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I ordered two of them so that I can get DCI P3 from both my current projector and hopefully also my next one (either a JVC or UHD60 which neither support WCG but do have HDR).

It appears to be the entire glass + supporting frame so I believe it should be straightforward to DIY an electronic sled system to switch between rec 709 and P3 using a remote.

I'll let you know.
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post #124 of 190 Old 01-20-2017, 02:31 PM
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Added a video

Anyone on line that has taken the case off of a 6010? I confirmed the dreaded ERR 08 so have started the disassembly process. The top case is loose except along the front panel. It seems pretty rigidly connected but there are no more screws to remove. Are there some clips? Does the case need to be pried off the front panel?
Thanks, Gunther

All, I found an interesting YouTube video of a tear down of an Epson 6030. He was troubleshooting some other problem but it shows how easy it is to get the case off......

Last edited by GWZ; 02-02-2017 at 06:26 AM. Reason: corrected epson model number
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post #125 of 190 Old 01-25-2017, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLBURNSIDE View Post
I ordered two of them so that I can get DCI P3 from both my current projector and hopefully also my next one (either a JVC or UHD60 which neither support WCG but do have HDR).

It appears to be the entire glass + supporting frame so I believe it should be straightforward to DIY an electronic sled system to switch between rec 709 and P3 using a remote.

I'll let you know.
I also ordered it from encompass, they had a nice little coupon, so came at a little less than $20 plus shipping. Should arrive tomorrow, will let you guys know how it turns out
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post #126 of 190 Old 01-31-2017, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWZ View Post
Anyone on line that has taken the case off of a 6010? I confirmed the dreaded ERR 08 so have started the disassembly process. The top case is loose except along the front panel. It seems pretty rigidly connected but there are no more screws to remove. Are there some clips? Does the case need to be pried off the front panel?
Thanks, Gunther

All, I found an interesting YouTube video of a tear down of an Epson 6020. He was troubleshooting some other problem but it shows how easy it is to get the case off......
https://youtu.be/fN7dAm7DrWE
Ok, actually pulled off the CF fix and all seems OK. I now get a satisfying precision sounding whir when the new motor/gearbox cycles the filter. 
A couple of clarifications on the original thread. 
1. You have to remove the front cover before the case. After you remove the 3 screws on the bottom of the front cover just hinge it towards you and it will snap off. This reveals the last 2 case screws. 
2. When reassembling the cinema filter top track ( it has the little microswitches on it) you need to pull one of those switches open so the switch lever will clear the top of the filter frame. This won't make sense until you see it but when you put the top track in place you will notice it will wobble slightly ( until the microswitch lever is pulled open. See photo below. I used a dental pick type of tool. Convently the lever has a tiny hole in it (probably just for this purpose). When adapting the new gearbox to the mounting bracket I drilled a hole in the bracket that holds the gearbox so I could use both of the screws (from the old gearbox attachment). One of the screws can go in full length but the other will need to be ground down to about 3/32 so it doesn't hit a gear. Picture below shows the 2 mounting screws.
Update: Well I can't get photos to upload so the description will have to do...
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Last edited by GWZ; 02-01-2017 at 04:57 AM. Reason: Spelling error
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post #127 of 190 Old 01-31-2017, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWZ View Post
Well I can't get photos to upload so the description will have to do...
With 22 Posts you should be able to upload.

Maybe check with an ADMIN and ask how many posts are needed to post pictures
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post #128 of 190 Old 02-01-2017, 04:51 AM
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Actually I misspoke, I can post but the photos size was too large. Had already spent too much time on the PC and didn't want to fool around reducing file sizes. Seems like this thread is pretty dead so maybe the CF gearbox failure isn't a widespread problem? Anyway just wanted to mention a couple of "gotchas" for the next guy.
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post #129 of 190 Old 02-01-2017, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWZ View Post
Actually I misspoke, I can post but the photos size was too large. Had already spent too much time on the PC and didn't want to fool around reducing file sizes. Seems like this thread is pretty dead so maybe the CF gearbox failure isn't a widespread problem? Anyway just wanted to mention a couple of "gotchas" for the next guy.
You may be right about the thread being somewhat dead.

I would love to see the pictures and I could post them on
your behalf - listing you as the source. I am a Photoshop
expert - you could email the pictures to me and I could
post them or in under a minute - I could e-mail them
back to you. I will PM my e-mail address.

I could also post them on other more up-to-date Epson
Lines like 5030/6030 threads - I actuall own a 5030 and
I know they have the same problem and your pictures
would apply to all of the Epson 50X0/60X0 Line.
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post #130 of 190 Old 02-01-2017, 05:29 PM
 
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I got a couple CF assembly in the mail today. Was indeed the glass + frame as expected. So you should all be OK to order it now if there are no second hand sources for cheaper. Look forward to messing around with colour gamuts on my w1070 this weekend. (got a new lamp coming in so I'll have lumens to spare for the next couple years or so).
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post #131 of 190 Old 02-01-2017, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post
You may be right about the thread being somewhat dead.

I would love to see the pictures and I could post them on
your behalf - listing you as the source. I am a Photoshop
expert - you could email the pictures to me and I could
post them or in under a minute - I could e-mail them
back to you. I will PM my e-mail address.

I could also post them on other more up-to-date Epson
Lines like 5030/6030 threads - I actuall own a 5030 and
I know they have the same problem and your pictures
would apply to all of the Epson 50X0/60X0 Line.
Yes please post pics of the procedure as I am about to undertake it as well and could use all the help I can get. Thanks in advance.
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post #132 of 190 Old 02-01-2017, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWZ View Post
Actually I misspoke, I can post but the photos size was too large. Had already spent too much time on the PC and didn't want to fool around reducing file sizes. Seems like this thread is pretty dead so maybe the CF gearbox failure isn't a widespread problem? Anyway just wanted to mention a couple of "gotchas" for the next guy.
Please post pics if you can please
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post #133 of 190 Old 02-02-2017, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Modicen View Post
Please post pics if you can please
Ok will give it a shot. Need to switch to a PC (instead of this tablet). This repair is doable but is a bit tedious at times. It's crucial to watch that YouTube video I mentioned in an earlier post. He shows how to remove those special connectors. The one on the edge of the motherboard (with the little black keepers in particular) is valuable. Other tips: Take lots of pictures as you are taking things apart. I planned that and ended up not doing a very good job of it. I guess I got carried away. It's surprising how hard it is to remember where all the screws go after a few days! I ended up with one left over. This projector is very solidly built so no problem.
Also I bought a $3 plastic parts container from harbor freight to store all the screws and labeled them.
As far as adapting the new gearbox, I found it much easier to just drill out the old shaft. Don't even think about trying to reduce the diameter of the new shaft to that of the old one. Drill out the "collet". For a snug fit you should use a # 30 bit but those aren't common. I used a 1/8" bit. It was a loose fit but was fine after gluing. Don't drill any deeper than you have to. Approximately 3/16 I think. This is the only operation that really requires some tools and care. I wouldn't try this holding the collett in some pliers in one hand and a drill I the other A hand drill will work but you need a vice to hold the collett. I used a small needle file to score shallow grooves in both the collett and gearbox shaft so the JB weld would have something to grip. Probably not necessary but made me feel better . Photos coming soon.
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post #134 of 190 Old 02-02-2017, 06:22 AM
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OK should be pics. nothing earth shattering but every little bit helps eh. To expand on my previous threads blather. I drilled a small hole in the CF gearbox frame so I could use 2 screws to hold the new gearbox. ashyt16's easier method of using one screw and a dab of glue is fine too (and easier). As another poster mentioned, when reusing the screws from the old gearbox one can be used full length in the new gearbox but one of the threaded holes in the new gearbox has a gear in the way so be careful and make sure you choose the gearbox mounting hole that will allow you to use the mounting screw full length. I had to grind the other screw down to 3/32 long so it wouldn't interfere with a gear when using both mounting holes. One thing that shocked me was how small this part is, all the photos show it in close up but the motor/gearbox is about as big as half a pinkie finger!
I would really like to thank ashyt16 for leading the way on this. There would be no way I would have even attempted to dig into my projector without his excellent guidance and photos.
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post #135 of 190 Old 02-02-2017, 01:56 PM
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GWZ, thanks for the sweet little right up and tips. And also the pics. I hope trackle my projector next weekend and hope it works. Thanks to all involved and I will let you guys know how I make out.
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post #136 of 190 Old 02-02-2017, 03:39 PM
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GWZ, thanks for the sweet little right up and tips. And also the pics. I hope trackle my projector next weekend and hope it works. Thanks to all involved and I will let you guys know how I make out.
And will we expect a YouTube Video from you????
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post #137 of 190 Old 02-02-2017, 04:56 PM
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I'm far from an expert but I'll keep an eye on this thread in case you have any questions. It really helps that the entire light engine is one big assembly so removing it doesn't mess up any critical alignments. I just had to refocus and zoom, it looks as good as before this "operation".
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post #138 of 190 Old 02-14-2017, 09:25 AM
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CheapB,
How do you go about pulling codes from the projector? I would like to try this before I dig into it so I can make sure it's the CF that's giving me the startup problem.

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post #139 of 190 Old 02-14-2017, 09:34 AM
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CheapB,
How do you go about pulling codes from the projector? I would like to try this before I dig into it so I can make sure it's the CF that's giving me the startup problem.
Getting the error code is a bit of a project in itself, especially if you don't have all the right stuff handy. You'll need a computer with a serial port (or a USB serial adapter), a terminal emulator, an RS-232 serial cable, and the protocol doc from the Epson site...

https://files.support.epson.com/Epso...p85_rs232.html

Basically, you connect the computer RS-232 serial port to the projector serial port, get connected, issue the "ERR?" commend, and the projector will return an error value (or values).

That's the short story. If you have everything handy and you've used serial before, it's a 10-minute project. If you haven't used serial much (or at all), it's much more of a challenge.

SC

I'm a Home Theater Enthusiast with GAS: Gadget Acquisition Syndrome.
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post #140 of 190 Old 02-16-2017, 06:33 PM
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ecrabb is spot on. I checked the error code before tearing into my 6010.
Problem 1. I have some old laptops but not old enough to have a serial port. So had to order a USB to serial dongle. It comes with driver software that was very picky about installation. After finally getting the driver s/w installed you'll find you need a null modem cable (cheap on Amazon and only a 2 day wait...). So I hooked everything up and opened up a terminal window and typed ERR?. For some reason the question mark didn't show up. Hit enter and nothing happened (well got a : ). So I typed ERR? A few more times and hit return about 10 times and lo and behold there was "ERR=08". Confirmation of a CF error.
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post #141 of 190 Old 04-09-2017, 08:17 PM
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Hi i need some help,

ive had my Epson 5030ub for about 3 years. was running fine until last week.
I purchased this projector new as part of my home theater build. As of today it had about 4200 hours on it (original bulb). I had just bought a new bulb as i knew it was going to be requiring a replacement soon. It's been working perfectly for the time ive owned it, until a week ago where it simply died. This is what happened:

The error occurred like this:
1. I pushed the standby button twice as normal on the remote to turnoff the projector after watching for about 2 hours.
2. Suddenly i heard something inside the projector rumble really loudly, a sound i had never heard before. It was not the sound of the auto iris adjusting as ive heard that many times. it was a different noise. Then the temp light started flashing bright red and status light blue and simultaneously the fan went to overdrive and started blowing air like crazy. (im not sure if i heard a little pop sound in the moment but maybe there was maybe there wasn't).
3. The projector then turned itself off after about 20 seconds etc.
4. I switched it off from the power assuming it would be okay the next morning and probably that it just needed a replacement bulb which i knew was needing to be changed. So i went to sleep.
5. next morning i found one my fuse in my house was tripped however the surge protector i had the projector plugged into was fine. i turned on the fuse and I then went to turn the projector on from the remote and then this --->
"power light" remains off, all i was getting was a flashing orange "lamp light" and a flashing blue "status light" which according to the manual indicates an internal error / malfunction with the projector (contact epson for help). The unit is powered but nothing at all happens. The projector will not turn on.
6. i tried the new bulb just to see if that was the issue but no help there. so its definitely not a bulb issue.

i rang EPSON who forwarded me onto one of their repairers who is telling me that the entire optical engine and mainboard needs to be replaced and that i am looking in the "thousands" to get it fixed. He says there isnt any issue with the power supply etc.

I am out of warranty but this is a catastrophic major failure, what are my chances regarding getting any help from EPSON? I mean i dont want to pay thousands to get this fixed and neither do i want to take out thousands of more dollars to buy an entirely new projector.

has any owners of the Epson 5010, 5020, 5025, 5030 or even 5040 owners know anything about this? Please help

some guys have said its the cinema filter error and nothing is wrong with the optical engine or mainboard....
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post #142 of 190 Old 04-18-2017, 08:32 PM
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Hi,

quick update,

the repairer has told me he only tried to read the motherboard and for somereason he couldnt do that and that the motherboard is giving him no reply or feedback. Hence hes telling me ill need to replace the entire motherboard and optical engine.

As most people have written in this thread the symptoms my 5030UB have sound exactly similar in nature.

ive opened the gearbox but its quite difficult to actually look at the tiny cogs to see if any teeth are in fact damaged. I can probably see one tooth which is slightly abnormal.

can the motor itself die? or does it have to be the bushes and cogs inside the motor?

btw the cogs are tight if i try to turn them and it does require some pressure which im not sure the motor would be able to move.

your guys thoughts please? is it worth a shot to try and replace the motor assembly?
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post #143 of 190 Old 04-24-2017, 09:45 PM
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ive opened the unit up inside and the culprit looks like the Power supply. full burn marks on the underside of the PSU PCB board. the black protective layer the covers the psu board also has significantly visible burn marks.

only problem is it worth replacing the PSU with a new one? it seems highly likely this is what the cause was.

only issue is if the already dead psu fried my projectors motherboard then it wont likely work and ill be down almost $200.

thoughts?
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post #144 of 190 Old 05-22-2017, 06:59 PM
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Hey everyone, got the replacement PSU, ripped the entire projector into bits. literally gave everything a clean and put it all back in with the new power supply unit and what do you know. back working beautifully!!!!!

cant believe epsons repairer said it was unfixable.. some of these guys literally work for money. fixed it myself, will be righting up a detailed post hopefully when i get some time!

thanks for everyones help!

most of epsons projectors all use the same PSU so this could be relevant to many epson projector models as well as the newer 5040ub thats just been released.
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post #145 of 190 Old 05-22-2017, 06:59 PM
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Hey everyone, got the replacement PSU, ripped the entire projector into bits. literally gave everything a clean and put it all back in with the new power supply unit and what do you know. back working beautifully!!!!!

cant believe epsons repairer said it was unfixable.. some of these guys literally work for money. fixed it myself, will be righting up a detailed post hopefully when i get some time!

thanks for everyones help!

most of epsons projectors all use the same PSU so this could be relevant to many epson projector models as well as the newer 5040ub thats just been released.
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post #146 of 190 Old 08-02-2017, 12:58 PM
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So, add me to the list. My 5010 seems to be having this problem. Tonight I plan to try to prove that by hooking up a terminal to the serial port...

However, has anyone bothered to measure the inner diameter of the brass collet, or the outer diameter of the EPSON output shaft? The reason I ask is that these motors are fairly common, and it seems that the one that has been recommended has a 3mm output shaft (which is too big to fit in the collet). I'm wondering if sourcing one with a 2.5mm output shaft is the right way to proceed without having to modify the collet OR the output shaft.

ie. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12GA-N20-DC-...-/282013476739

I guess if my serial port tells me I have the right problem, I can dig in and measure myself...but I was hoping to not have my projector open for too long (collecting dust), and having the part on-hand would be a benefit.

Thanks for the thread!

-Kevin
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post #147 of 190 Old 08-02-2017, 04:57 PM
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Okay, confirmed my ERR=8, so now I'm hoping I can get some answers to my questions before I dig into this...
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post #148 of 190 Old 10-11-2017, 01:51 PM
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Changing plastic spindle

Hi guys,

thanks everyone for sharing all this information. When I read all these possible solutions to the problem. Has anyone tried to just replace the plastic spindle itself for metal one? Just the idea. My PJ has not arrived yet(2nd hand), but believe it has the same problem.
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post #149 of 190 Old 10-22-2017, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Just thought I'd report back in on this mod I did over 3 years ago and the PJ is still going strong!
It's good to see many have benefited. Any one else still got a successful repair going?
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post #150 of 190 Old 11-27-2017, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashyt16 View Post
Just thought I'd report back in on this mod I did over 3 years ago and the PJ is still going strong!
It's good to see many have benefited. Any one else still got a successful repair going?
Hey Ash, I will try to pull this off on my Epson 5010 projector this coming weekend! So your post continues to be helpful even after 3 years! I am glad I bookmarked it then itself.
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