Epson 5010/6010 'Cinema filter Error', grinding noise, red light fix with pics - Page 6 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #151 of 190 Old 12-03-2017, 03:12 AM
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Well, I tried this fix this weekend. Things didn't go exactly as planned.

This is the first time I dissembled something so complex electronically. Took me whole day to dissemble and assemble.

I didn't have the stomach and skills for fixing the motor, so I directly bought the Epson original motor from Amazon for replacement. I figure that new replacement motor should run fine for an year or so before its plastic gears grind away. I accept that.

Front panel plastic cover of projector itself was quiet tight and difficult to remove.

After reading a warning about LCD ribbon connector levers in this thread, I religiously tried to follow the 6010 teardown video posted in this thread to release the ribbons. That was a big mistake. It turns out that Ashyt16's original instructions are correct for 5010. You need to pry black part away and not open up white part (as is done in video). I tried to open up the white part in my 5010 and ended up breaking a chuck of it in the middle. Fortunately the damage was not fatal and LCD ribbons can still be connected to it firmly.

A thing that Ashyt hadn't mention was that for taking out the optical block, apart from 3 screws on the block, there is fourth screw also that needs to be removed. Its located just below front panel (Towards left if lens is facing you).

I very carefully replaced the motor and reconnected everything correctly down to the last screw.

Unfortunately my problems are not yet over.
Now when I start my projector, I do NOT get two red lights. So I assume that CF motor error is fixed.
I do hear a whirring/grinding noise in the beginning, which I am assuming is normal (thought its louder than what I expect), then the blue light starts blinking and fans turn on, which is normal too.
Then comes the bad part - blue light just keeps on blinking. Lens door never opens. Bulb never lits up. I have tried connecting/disconnecting power many times now. Same thing every time

Not sure what to do here. None of you have reported anything like this after your fix.

I took out the lamp in hope that lamp error will somehow break this cycle. No change in behavior, no lamp error.

Any advice, gentlemen?
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post #152 of 190 Old 12-03-2017, 10:15 AM
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I tried re-seating the CF, this time at the other end. No difference.
Finally in desperation I did firmware upgrade of 5010. Apparently the upgrade was successful. Unfortunately now I am getting two red lights after starting up. Not sure what I can do more
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post #153 of 190 Old 12-03-2017, 01:13 PM
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Check to make sure all fans are running? I thought I read somewhere that could be the issue also, one of the cooling fans was not working causing a double red light. Worth checking it out at this point.
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post #154 of 190 Old 12-03-2017, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modicen View Post
Check to make sure all fans are running? I thought I read somewhere that could be the issue also, one of the cooling fans was not working causing a double red light. Worth checking it out at this point.
After firmware update, as soon as the red lights come in, all fans stop. So cant check.
Before firmware update, when the projector was getting stuck in never-ending blue light flashing mode, I could feel airflow everywhere, so it seems that fans were working at least up to that point.
I am wondering whether the new Epson CF motor that I have bought itself is faulty? Not sure how to check.
After firmware upgrade, my laptop now has a COM port connection through USB. Maybe I should try to get Error Code from projector through USB. That should tell me for sure whether its really a CF error or something else.
I will need someone to guide me how to pull error codes from Projector though.

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post #155 of 190 Old 01-08-2018, 04:35 PM
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I have a 5030UB, and I suspect I could be having this issue. On power up, the fans come on, there is the grinding noise, and all 3 lights flash. BTW, the bulb and temperature lights on my 5030UB are orange, not red, for what it's worth.

No power is applied to the bulb. It stops before that. The shutter/lens cover does not open. I changed the bulb, no effect. I opened the auto lens cover manually, no effect. Does this sound like the cinema filter issue?
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post #156 of 190 Old 01-08-2018, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R_STL View Post
I have a 5030UB, and I suspect I could be having this issue. On power up, the fans come on, there is the grinding noise, and all 3 lights flash. BTW, the bulb and temperature lights on my 5030UB are orange, not red, for what it's worth.

No power is applied to the bulb. It stops before that. The shutter/lens cover does not open. I changed the bulb, no effect. I opened the auto lens cover manually, no effect. Does this sound like the cinema filter issue?
Hello,

Watch this video:


All the noises you hear until second 24 are normal operation noises. First there is a click, then the auto-iris opens and sets itself into position, then the cinema filter slides sideways. Does your projector sound significantly different?
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post #157 of 190 Old 01-08-2018, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
Hello,

Watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcI9NkDKa3w


All the noises you hear until second 24 are normal operation noises. First there is a click, then the auto-iris opens and sets itself into position, then the cinema filter slides sideways. Does your projector sound significantly different?
Thanks for your reply. The sounds are pretty different. First, what projector is this in the video?

Second, up until about 9 seconds, they are flipping a metal flap back in place with a screwdriver. Is that part of the normal operation sound of the unit?

It seems to me that the power might be applied at about 11 seconds into the video. In the video, the metal flap flips up, then some kind of carriage slides over. I assume but don't know that is the cinema filter. At my best guess, instead of the smooth movement noise in the video, I have the grinding noise- as I said, and as is indicated in the title of this thread. For me,it's quiet after that, and the bulb never lights. Thanks again.
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post #158 of 190 Old 01-09-2018, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R_STL View Post
Thanks for your reply. The sounds are pretty different. First, what projector is this in the video?

Second, up until about 9 seconds, they are flipping a metal flap back in place with a screwdriver. Is that part of the normal operation sound of the unit?

It seems to me that the power might be applied at about 11 seconds into the video. In the video, the metal flap flips up, then some kind of carriage slides over. I assume but don't know that is the cinema filter. At my best guess, instead of the smooth movement noise in the video, I have the grinding noise- as I said, and as is indicated in the title of this thread. For me,it's quiet after that, and the bulb never lights. Thanks again.
This is an Epson EH-TW2900.

The video was made by me, I pushed the auto-iris down with the back of a tweezers to see if it would open normally. The auto-iris should set itself to open position when turning off the projector, so normally it is open when starting the projector, that's why I had to close it in order to test it. And you're right, I didn't remember the that opening iris isn't a normal operation sound. Still, it should always do the short sound at second 20, when it flaps a little to cycle into position.

So, if the grinding noise happens when the carriage (the cinema filter) slides sideways, then you're probably right, it's a problem with the cinema filter.
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Last edited by descalabro; 01-09-2018 at 04:02 AM.
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post #159 of 190 Old 01-10-2018, 03:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashyt16 View Post
Just thought I'd report back in on this mod I did over 3 years ago and the PJ is still going strong!
It's good to see many have benefited. Any one else still got a successful repair going?
Hi Ashyt16, my PJ is still going strong after the CF gearbox replacement! Thanks again for leading the way.
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post #160 of 190 Old 01-10-2018, 06:15 AM
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Can't help feeling jealous of you guys! Not only I failed to revive my 5010, I also destroyed it completely on account of my clumsiness. I accidentally made a tear in red ribbon of 3LCD optical block. When I contacted Epson Support, they told me that it cant be fixed and I will have to get both optical block and motherboard replaced. Replacement costs are same as a new projector.
Now I wish I had given this directly to Epson for fix instead of attempting to repair it myself.
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post #161 of 190 Old 01-10-2018, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xplorar View Post
Now I wish I had given this directly to Epson for fix instead of attempting to repair it myself.
I knew right away I would not have the chops to do the fixes myself, tho I very much appreciate those who have posted their videos and made recommendations for stronger parts. It pained me like hell to spend $500 fixing my 5020 rather than putting it towards a 4k/HDR PJ.

But here we are 2 years later and my PJ is still humming along and nobody has put out a reasonably priced 4K HDR PJ that has as much or more lens shift and light output as my 5020 other than the 5040. The fake 4K turned me way off. I still don't know if I could deal with it. And I dunno if I trust that Epson has fixed the motors in that model and the 5040 should be replaced with a new model sooner than later. So the $500 fix was well spent for me, YMMV.
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post #162 of 190 Old 01-12-2018, 03:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kadath View Post
I knew right away I would not have the chops to do the fixes myself, tho I very much appreciate those who have posted their videos and made recommendations for stronger parts. It pained me like hell to spend $500 fixing my 5020 rather than putting it towards a 4k/HDR PJ.

But here we are 2 years later and my PJ is still humming along and nobody has put out a reasonably priced 4K HDR PJ that has as much or more lens shift and light output as my 5020 other than the 5040. The fake 4K turned me way off. I still don't know if I could deal with it. And I dunno if I trust that Epson has fixed the motors in that model and the 5040 should be replaced with a new model sooner than later. So the $500 fix was well spent for me, YMMV.
It would be interesting to know if Epson are still using those crappy motors.
They are foolish if the are as it would take minimal modifications to their production to use the better motors.

Maybe I should send their engineering dept a link to this thread?
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post #163 of 190 Old 01-12-2018, 03:46 PM
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Go for it! Send a bill too!
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post #164 of 190 Old 01-14-2018, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
This is an Epson EH-TW2900.

The video was made by me, I pushed the auto-iris down with the back of a tweezers to see if it would open normally. The auto-iris should set itself to open position when turning off the projector, so normally it is open when starting the projector, that's why I had to close it in order to test it. And you're right, I didn't remember the that opening iris isn't a normal operation sound. Still, it should always do the short sound at second 20, when it flaps a little to cycle into position.

So, if the grinding noise happens when the carriage (the cinema filter) slides sideways, then you're probably right, it's a problem with the cinema filter.
Thanks for that. I will be following the instructions and examples in this thread very carefully, and especially the extra tips by xplorar if they apply to my 5030UB.

The best price I could find on the 1452666 assembly was $53 shipped from a Canadian seller on ebay. Others are selling it for $70 and up. The Europe and UK suppliers I saw, won't ship to the US.
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post #165 of 190 Old 01-14-2018, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R_STL View Post
Thanks for that. I will be following the instructions and examples in this thread very carefully, and especially the extra tips by xplorar if they apply to my 5030UB.

The best price I could find on the 1452666 assembly was $53 shipped from a Canadian seller on ebay. Others are selling it for $70 and up. The Europe and UK suppliers I saw, won't ship to the US.
These larger home cinema models from Epson are usually built in such a way that it's not so hard to disassemble them.

Here is an exploded view diagram that may help you:
https://www.gedat-spareparts.com/ex/eh_tw9000w.pdf

It may take some time to make sense of everything in that diagram, but it can be helpful.

I remember UB models from around 2010 had an additional circuit board under the mainboard, and that the LCDs attached to this extra circuit board instead of the mainboard. If that is still the case, the diagram doesn't include that. But everything else should be the same.

Good luck.
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post #166 of 190 Old 02-15-2018, 07:01 AM
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ashyt16 - I can't thank you enough for this post. I am fearless in taking things apart, but I'm downright scary if I don't know what I'm doing, and without posts such as this one I wouldn't be nearly as successful.

How did you know what motor to originally select - there have to be a dozen variations of the same motor on the website that you quoted originally? Would either of the two below motors work in your estimation (I am impatient and would love to have something to experiment with by tonight):

(I had to remove the two hyperlinks since I am a new member, but the Amazon products are
- Uxcell - DC 6V 30RPM 3mm Shaft Mini Metal Gearwheel Gear Motor GA12-N20
- NW Micro DC 3V-6V Speed Reduction Motor with Full Metal Gearbox Replacement N20 Shaft Diameter Reduction Gear Motor for RC Car, Robot Model, DIY Engine Toys(6V, 52RPM)

Thanks again!
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post #167 of 190 Old 02-18-2018, 08:31 AM
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I ended up successfully putting in the new gearbox but now when I start the projector up it throws a temperature only read light with a RS – 232 error code of FF. Does anyone know what the FF error code signifies? This code does not exist in the manual!
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post #168 of 190 Old 02-18-2018, 09:53 AM
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Regarding my above post, I did call Epson support and the technician had to escalate the question to his 'Advanced' technical team and apparently they indicated the 'FF' code did not originate from the 5020ub. So where did this response come from? Also, I'll post some photos of the my above gearbox swap when I reach five posts...I ended up ordering/using the Pololu 50rpm gearbox and it was fairly straightforward (I drilled the collet and ).
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post #169 of 190 Old 02-18-2018, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfhawk View Post
Regarding my above post, I did call Epson support and the technician had to escalate the question to his 'Advanced' technical team and apparently they indicated the 'FF' code did not originate from the 5020ub. So where did this response come from? Also, I'll post some photos of the my above gearbox swap when I reach five posts...I ended up ordering/using the Pololu 50rpm gearbox and it was fairly straightforward (I drilled the collet and ).
I'm looking forward to seeing your photos
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post #170 of 190 Old 02-19-2018, 11:45 PM
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I ended up ignoring the 'FF' code and focusing on the temperature light - I decided to start with the sensors and swapped out the front temp sensor (I had a 3020 not in use that I'll buy a new sensor and install it later - slightly different product numbers but....) and the projector immediately started to work again. With that said, five minutes into Avatar an Auto Iris error was thrown (on screen). I started the projector back up (and it started normally), changed the Auto Iris from High Speed to Normal and the projector didn't throw the auto iris error for a good half an hour. Regardless, I placed an order with encompass for a new auto iris component. Should swapping out the old for a new one do the trick - any experience with the auto iris error popping up on the screen and a fix for it? Two steps forward and one back it seems...
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post #171 of 190 Old 02-21-2018, 10:08 AM
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I was thinking about my original question to ashyt16 (i.e. how he determined what motor/gearbox to procure) and looked into it - doing a simple tape & audio test that I found on youtube I roughly calculated the RPM of the original OEM motor at 8,500 RPM vs. the 50RPM (that this forum/thread has used) - so not only is Epson using plastic components but an RPM that is extreme for the requirements. Would this not add to the deterioration of the components?? I mean the difference between the RPMs is extreme - any thoughts?

Here is a quick video of the two motors (55 seconds):

Last edited by dfhawk; 02-21-2018 at 11:11 AM.
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post #172 of 190 Old 02-21-2018, 11:43 AM
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I won't repeat the more generic steps of this process but here is the general modifications that I made to the CF component:

I used pliers and a 4 inch crescent wrench to dislodge the brass grommet:


I then placed it on a vice, took a small nail and hammered inside the grommet to loosen it entirely:


This will be all of the components when you're completed - I crossed off the pieces that can be discarded:


I then drilled out the grommet using 1/8 inch bit with the drill press and then using epoxy to adhere it:


This is not the final modified CF I used but it's close to what I ended up using - I ended up drilling an additional hole so that I could secure both sides using the prefabricated threaded holes on the gearbox, as well as a few washers that helped keep the gears from binding:

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post #173 of 190 Old 04-28-2018, 01:24 PM
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Epson eh tw9000

[quote=ashyt16;25867498]
Hi guys i also had this issue with my EH-TW9000. But this guide here seems daunting. Finally called a company and it is now back home and working. Seems all Epson LCD Pjs have this issue.
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post #174 of 190 Old 05-22-2018, 07:00 PM
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Did anyone save the pictures?

Did anyone happen to save the pictures that used to be in the first post of this thread showing the teardown? It's a shame that something so potentially useful to so many people gets thrown away, and to add insult to injury, is excluded from archive.org so no backups are available.
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post #175 of 190 Old 08-20-2018, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashyt16 View Post
I have an Epson 5010, which had started making a grinding noise shortly after starting up or changing colour modes, this eventually led to an error on screen, "Error in the Epson cinema filter. For repairs contact your nearest Epson service provider"

However a few times I was able to continue using the PJ, but obviously something wasn't right. Shortly after this the PJ would power on, but wouldn't start up. The fan would come on very high speed for a few minutes then just shut down with the red lights blinking indicating an 'Internal error'

My PJ is out of warranty, so I decide to take matters into my own hands and see if I could find out what the problem was. I've had experience with stripping projectors down before, so here's what I did to fix the problem.


EDIT: The below mod only worked for a short while before the gear box failed again.
At the end of this post is a link to a post I made using a metal gear box.

It seems that the problem is related to the Cinema filter mechanism failing. It turns out the gearbox attached to the mechanism had developed a problem and this is what needed to be fixed.

1. First of all its best to remove the lamp. After this remove all the screws on the bottom of the PJ and at the rear.
Once this has been done the top case can be removed to reveal the motherboard and lens system. Also observe in the pic I had already removed the front panel, more on that later:



2. Next we need to remove the motherboard, firstly disconnecting all the connectors around the edges of the motherboard. Most will just pull out, but the the ones with flat ribbon cable have a special way of disconnecting. Basically The black piece needs to be carefully levered away from white part as you can see below. The same goes for the ones connected to the optical block.
Be very careful when removing the motherboard that these don't get snagged.





3. Here you can see the cinema filter assembly which we need to get to.



4. Remove the three screws circled then withdraw the Auto-Iris mechanism then remove the screws from the other parts circled and remove. Be sure to move the black wire for the temperature sensor out of the way.



5. Once these parts are removed the cinema filter can be carefully removed.



A pic of the Auto-Iris assembly:



6. With the filter removed we can see the motor and gearbox:



7. Next the front panel needs to removed, unfortunately I forgot to take a pic of this before I removed it, but basically there are a couple of screws on the top and some clips underneath. Once the screws are removed then it should just pull away with a bit of persuasion.

8. This will reveal the lens system, there are a couple of screws either side of it deep down that need to be removed.







You will notice there is a red area circled, this is a lever attached to the infared panel at the front of the PJ. This will need to be located properly when reassembling.

9. Now we need to remove the screws for the rest of the optical system so it can be withdrawn. There are 3 silver screws as circled:



10. Now we are ready to remove the optical assembly, but first we need to pull forward the door slider mechanism so it clears it. Observe the wires circled which need to be unwound to allow them to move.



11. We can now remove the whole optical assembly, just pull the whole thing up and out:

Topside:



Bottom:



As you can see the optical block is exposed so I decided to cover this to prevent dust getting in, also you can see the motor and gear box which needs to be removed:



12. Now to remove the motor unscrew the 2 black screws and pull off the motor assembly.




13. The screws to remove the gearbox are underneath, so to get to them first we need to remove the 2 screws circled then there are 2 tiny screws holding the gearbox case on.
After these are removed hold the gearbox case upside down and remove the rest of the assembly.



14. In my case the part that was causing the problem is arrowed as it was worn and had a missing tooth. I guess this was causing the gears to slip.



15. These things are tiny, I'm not surprised they fail considering how much torque the gearbox produces from the little motor.
here you can see the missing tooth:



16. Moving on now to the actual repair. Basically what I did was make a little metal gear using my dremel tool which I could attached to the damage part to not only repair it, but hopefully strenghthen it too.

To make the metal gear I cut out a piece of metal then ground it into a circle and laid this over the top of the plastic gear. I attached it to the gear using the tiny screws from the gear box.



I then proceeded to carefully and painstakingly create the teeth using the dremel attachment below. This is a wafer thing disc which I then ground the edges with a carborundum stone to a knife edge.








Sorry about the dirty fingers and nails, but I was in the middle of rebuilding an engine that week.

17. After grinding and making the teeth I made a mark on both the metal gear and the plastic gear so I knew how the 2 joined together.
To attach the metal gear I first ground down some of the plastic gear the same thickness as the metal gear, made both mating surfaces rough with sandpaper then attached it using super glue being careful to line the marks up, I also put a small watchmakers screwdriver through the middle hole of both to ensure they both aligned properly. I then left it to dry for a while.

18. Here is the finished product:





All that is left is to put it back in the gearbox and reassemble it. Before I did I put plenty of high temp grease inside the gearbox on the gears.

19. Finally just need to reassemble everything the same way it came apart. When reassembling the Cinema filter ensure that the filter goes between the 2 switches when putting this part back on. These switches are what determines the correct position of the filter at first start up when the filter is cycled:




I now have no problems and the cinema filter mechanism is as quiet as ever. Hopefully this helps others.

I know that some people may not want to or be able to repair the gearbox so I have posted links below where the part is available:

North America: http://www.buyphilipsparts.com/item/...or_Cf_Assy;_As

Europe:
http://www.gedat-spareparts.com/inde...tion=epsdetail

UK:
http://www.cxcommerce.com/pgProduct....666-Motor-Assy

Also there is a very handy exploded diagram which helps identify which part is which and goes where:
http://www.gedat-spareparts.com/ex/eh_tw9000.pdf

Hope this helps


EDIT: This mod only worked for a short while before the gear box failed again.
Below is a link to a post I made using a metal gear box.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...l#post30416170
Hi, how can I see the photoes again?
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post #176 of 190 Old 08-20-2018, 05:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoltan 77 View Post
Hi, how can I see the photoes again?
Please don't quote the entire OP. You've created a massive post and a huge email was sent also.
You could have just tagged.

I will fix the images when I get chance.
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post #177 of 190 Old 08-26-2018, 05:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfhawk View Post
I was thinking about my original question to ashyt16 (i.e. how he determined what motor/gearbox to procure) and looked into it - doing a simple tape & audio test that I found on youtube I roughly calculated the RPM of the original OEM motor at 8,500 RPM vs. the 50RPM (that this forum/thread has used) - so not only is Epson using plastic components but an RPM that is extreme for the requirements. Would this not add to the deterioration of the components?? I mean the difference between the RPMs is extreme - any thoughts?

Here is a quick video of the two motors (55 seconds):
https://youtu.be/jeWtQXp286w
The motor itself may run at 8,500 rpm, but that's not it's geared output speed. That would be way too fast.

I calculated the output rpm by recording the amount of revolutions for 10 seconds then multipled that by 6 to get rpm.

By the way your video doesn't seem to work.
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post #178 of 190 Old 11-20-2018, 01:00 PM
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Arrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by xplorar View Post
Well, I tried this fix this weekend. Things didn't go exactly as planned.

[...]
After reading a warning about LCD ribbon connector levers in this thread, I religiously tried to follow the 6010 teardown video posted in this thread to release the ribbons. That was a big mistake. It turns out that Ashyt16's original instructions are correct for 5010. You need to pry black part away and not open up white part (as is done in video). I tried to open up the white part in my 5010 and ended up breaking a chuck of it in the middle. Fortunately the damage was not fatal and LCD ribbons can still be connected to it firmly.

[...]
Gentlemen,

why on earth I didn't read the full thread before starting to replace the CF motor on my TW2000 ;(

The original instructions don't exactly fit my TW2000 but anyone who understand what he is doing is able to disassemble the full thing.

Now, my FCC connector (the blue ribbon highlighted in the picture) was the type "flip lock" so the white lever should be flipped up. Unfortunately I realised this after I pulled the first one thinking it was the black type to pull-out!

As xplorar would say: that was a big mistake!

I broke the lever almost in the middle and the ribbon isn't anymore tight into his socket. The result you can imagine: sort of yellow image (no blue) varying widely with vibration, thermal expansion, air flow and so on.

Now, the motherboard is basically impossible to find. There is specific thread here on the forum
Also it's hard to find for sale such model for spare parts (even though still present in the second hand market)
Moreover, it would be quite stupid throw such PJ in the trash just for a broken lever...

Any idea on how to fix it?

Replace the whole connector is a no-go (soldering such small pins by hand is hardly possible). Stick a spacer also proven not be easy and reliable.

Quite sure I can replace only the lever if I know the model of the connector! Some ideas guys? Maybe at least the manufacturer (TE connectivity? Molex?) and model (pitch? # of pins?)

Any help is really appreciated!
Alex
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post #179 of 190 Old 11-27-2018, 09:17 AM
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Hello everyone,

so I fixed my projector using a spacer under the FPC cable.
I've tried to use with a piece from a plastic cup but it was too thick. I had more luck with a double layer of magic tape: it fit snug and I don't expect failures soon.

What I found was also:
- The FPC connector is made in purpose for Epson, so no spare parts.
- There is no motherboard available as spare part
- The details of the components on the motherboard are only available to Epson engineers in Japan and they are not shared to the customer service or other repair services
- If you live in Benelux, http://mservice.nl will help you to find spare parts and they have some scrap projector in their warehouse
- Other details on that specific connector can be found here

I hope that other will benefit from my experience.

Have fun and long life to Epson EMP-TW family
Alex
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post #180 of 190 Old 11-27-2018, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragoshenron View Post
Hello everyone,

so I fixed my projector using a spacer under the FPC cable.
I've tried to use with a piece from a plastic cup but it was too thick. I had more luck with a double layer of magic tape: it fit snug and I don't expect failures soon.

What I found was also:
- The FPC connector is made in purpose for Epson, so no spare parts.
- There is no motherboard available as spare part
- The details of the components on the motherboard are only available to Epson engineers in Japan and they are not shared to the customer service or other repair services
- If you live in Benelux, http://mservice.nl will help you to find spare parts and they have some scrap projector in their warehouse
- Other details on that specific connector can be found here

I hope that other will benefit from my experience.

Have fun and long life to Epson EMP-TW family
Alex
Good Info, thanks for posting your results. Glad you fixed your projector too.
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