Benq HT1075 and HT1085ST - Page 4 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #91 of 350 Old 01-09-2015, 07:13 AM
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I just purchased the BenQ HT 1075 and a 100" screen (87w x 49H) with a 1.3 gain. I just hooked everything up before mounting and it seems the screen throw distance is off. It shows the median distance to be 9'-5". However, I have the projector set back around 10'-0" and the zoom in as far as possible. The picture is as large as the screen in the horizontal possition. Has anyone else had any issues? Is there an adjustment that I am missing? Any information will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
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post #92 of 350 Old 01-09-2015, 02:47 PM
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I am right about 9.5' with a 92" screen. I am close to all the way out on the zoom.

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post #93 of 350 Old 01-09-2015, 02:52 PM
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I just set my zoom about 95% out and held the projector(with the mount attached) against the ceiling until I positioned it right for my screen. Marked it, mounted it, then adjusted the mount and zoom from there. It kept my zoom just about all the way out, which I have read is a better setup for the optics. Not sure if that is true or not. Maybe I did it backwards?!?! lol

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post #94 of 350 Old 01-10-2015, 12:03 AM
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Mine was to be at 6' 9" for a 135" with my 1085ST but it was actually at about 7' once keystone adjustment and filling the screen properly was all said and done.
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post #95 of 350 Old 01-12-2015, 11:43 AM
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Zoom In/out sounds confusing. Naturally, keeping the zoom constant and moving the PJ physically closer to the screen reduces the size of the projection. So, you would need to zoom more to expand the projection to match screen size. Here is how I did mine (keeping in mind that several posts indicated to have your PJ positioned closest to the screen so... max zoom is needed). Based on screen size, I used the charts to obtain the PJ distance range (for my 110" - min 9'3" to max 12'). I set the PJ so the front of the lens to screen distance was 9' 7" (left a little wiggle room) and used the zoom to fill the screen. The picture turned out awesome with sharp focus across the entire screen. I didn't test the other extreme (farthest away - no zoom), so not sure if it would have turned out worse. Works good... so leave it alone and don't drill more holes. HA! Link to calc below - just enter your screen size to get min/max.
`NV
http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ...ulator-pro.htm
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post #96 of 350 Old 01-12-2015, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NocturnalVideo View Post
Based on screen size, I used the charts to obtain the PJ distance range (for my 110" - min 9'3" to max 12'). I set the PJ so the front of the lens to screen distance was 9' 7" (left a little wiggle room) and used the zoom to fill the screen. The picture turned out awesome with sharp focus across the entire screen.

I can second your observations that setting the projector zoom to allow the shortest throw distance possible results in a very sharp picture, whereas doing the opposite results in poor focus uniformity.


Not sure if this lens aberration varies between different samples, but it would be a good going in point for anyone setting up a W1070 or W1075.
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post #97 of 350 Old 01-12-2015, 02:47 PM
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So I did mine ass backwards?
If I'm getting this right, lets say the projector is aimed at a wall. Adjust the zoom so it projects the largest image in that position. Back it off a tiny bit. Now position the projector so that the image fills the screen.


I did the opposite. Adjusted for the smallest image, then moved the projector forward until the image filled the screen.

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post #98 of 350 Old 01-12-2015, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatthewK78 View Post
I still notice rainbows, but it does seem quite a bit less than the Optomas. If they made RGBRGBRGB wheels rainbows would probably be completely gone.
Do you see RBE frequently enough for it to become a annoyance?
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post #99 of 350 Old 01-13-2015, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Maiden View Post
So I did mine ass backwards?
If I'm getting this right, lets say the projector is aimed at a wall. Adjust the zoom so it projects the largest image in that position. Back it off a tiny bit. Now position the projector so that the image fills the screen.
I did the opposite. Adjusted for the smallest image, then moved the projector forward until the image filled the screen.

There is no backwards if you are happy with your picture... right? For some, there may be no choice but to position the PJ near its longest throw distance - may be some interference in the ceiling, cable lengths, power, or no joist to get a solid attachment. I guess it is just a recommendation to first try the shortest throw distance if possible as experienced by others.
Also, my seating is right at 12' from the screen. So, having the PJ about 2 feet in front of me on the ceiling allows me to glance up at the PJ panel lights - and never causes any distraction from the screen. If I would have used the 12' farthest throw, the PJ would have been directly overhead. I don't think there would be any difference in fan noise. I run the projector in eco mode most of the time and can barely hear the fan. Any sound through my HT speakers nulls the fan noise anyway.
Cheers!
~NV us
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post #100 of 350 Old 01-13-2015, 12:46 PM
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Well, after reading up on it..... it sounds like a compromise either way. What my research showed was that having the projector closest to the screen as possible increases the brightness(good) but will reduce the sharpness or image quality(bad).
Having the projector farthest away from the screen will reduce the brightness(bad) but give the best image quality. (good).
Seemed most suggest finding the sweet spot in the middle.
I will leave mine as is for now. Hunting for a new home to purchase asap so will be redoing my theater either way. The brighter image sure sounds better though. Would be nice to be able to actually put the projector in Eco mode and still enjoy the image.

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post #101 of 350 Old 01-13-2015, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prognathous View Post
Do you see RBE frequently enough for it to become a annoyance?
Not for me, no. Every once in a while I notice some very brief RBE, but for the most part I've tuned it out. The Benq does have quite a bit less than the Optoma though due to the RGBRGB color wheel. Having owned both I'm definitely happy with my decision, even after ~900 hours of use.
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post #102 of 350 Old 01-14-2015, 12:06 AM
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That's good to know, thanks. I ordered the 1080ST and am supposed to receive it Monday. I can't wait!
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post #103 of 350 Old 01-14-2015, 10:05 PM
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So my youngest son asked me tonight if he could play some xbox on the projection system rather than the 60" Panasonic plasma he normally plays on. So I pulled the hdmi from the xbox and ran one to the front hdmi input on the Oppo bdp103. About 10min later, he asked me why there is so much input lag. My first thought was, well it must be the BenQ HT1075. I read it had a poor input lag rating before buying it but said screw it as I planned to use it for BluRays only.
Then I thought, the Oppo!!! I unplugged the Oppo from the projector and ran the Xbox one right into the projector. Problem solved. In fact, he said that it's even better than the Plasma. I didn't know my Panny had input lag?!?!?! But glad to hear the new projector is acceptable for gaming.
And for the gamers who have asked about the reviews saying this is not a good gaming projector..... My son says it is not an issue. He is a hardcore online gamer and he flat out said it's better than the plasma. Then asked, "Does this mean I get to play on the big screen for now on????" LOL
I still game as well but not very often. Once my kids started getting better than me!!!!!

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post #104 of 350 Old 01-15-2015, 12:41 AM
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Why not let your son use the projector for gaming? I for one plan to do exactly that (well, use it for gaming myself).
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post #105 of 350 Old 01-15-2015, 09:54 AM
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I connect my PS4 directly to the HT1075, and I don't notice any lag. I haven't played a lot though.
Does anyone notice the lag in gaming with HT1075 ?
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post #106 of 350 Old 01-15-2015, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prognathous View Post
Why not let your son use the projector for gaming? I for one plan to do exactly that (well, use it for gaming myself).
Because the 60" plasma doesn't require bulb replacements.
My last projector, a Marantz, was also a dlp projector. It chewed through lamps. Great projector but the lamp replacements were expensive. I would rather not have to replace the lamps all too often.
So I purchased the new BenQ with the plan to only use it for movie watching and for big games and such. I already know it will get extra use when guests are over and it will get used now and then for gaming. I was already playing some Tomb Raider on it. Pretty awesome!
But don't want it to become the primary video display.

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post #107 of 350 Old 01-24-2015, 08:19 AM
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HT 1075 Gaming:
Let's start on paper… PJ Central has been including input lag benchmarks in their reviews for years. Their testing has evolved over the past two years and they are now using a newer process. Although the new test process may be more accurate, lag times are reported slightly higher than the old process. The below clipped from the HT 1075 review (link at the bottom):


“In our testing, the HT1075 measured 49.7 milliseconds of input lag, equivalent to about three frames of a 60 fps input signal. That is slightly more lag than we measured on the W1070 (24 ms), but the accuracy of our lag tests has also increased since 2012 so it is possible that the "increase" isn't one at all. In any case, three frames is on the high side for fast-twitch gaming where timing is crucial, but most games don't fall under that heading. For those games where timing is less critical, the HT1075 is a fine choice.”

Even dedicated gaming projectors costing much more can bring down input lag to 10-15ms. In comparison with the 49ms stated above, that’s a whopping 2% to 3% per second gain. Wait… I’m not sure if 2% of a second is important to me when gaming. Seriously, I don’t think I can tell the difference. I think you have to be pretty hard-core to even notice. My personal opinion/choice…
Besides my projector, I also have an ASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz 1ms LCD Monitor I’ve used for over a year. I play a wide variety of games from strategy, action, adventure, racing, RPG, FPS, MMO… and personally, I can’t tell a single bit of lag difference between playing on my ASUS to playing on the HT1075. I’ve played and tested my entire circuit of games over the past month and the games played with the same level of response - just as fast… I know for a fact that my ASUS monitor is going to collect some dust. Break out the PJ bulbs – Ha! Nothing like the 1080P big screen for gaming – love it. I do have up-to-date HTPC gear (see post#69) which helps to eliminate any concerns over game video delivery to the HT1075.
I also have seen no screen tearing, ghosting, or motion blur that could be attributed to the projector. I think the few people that complain do so based on the age of their computer gear. Starting with an old PC and video card only enlarges and enhances the bad video previously masked by the smaller monitor display they were used to seeing. Anyway… I’m the one on your right-side in the dungeon… you know, your wingman. gg.
~NV us
http://www.projectorcentral.com/benq...ge=Limitations
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post #108 of 350 Old 01-24-2015, 11:59 AM
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Benq HT1075 and HT1085ST

That's pretty encouraging, NocturnalVideo. For a lot of people, 50ms actually is below the threshold of what's actually detectable. Though not everyone, I guess.

What about an objective measurement: since you have a good gaming-reference monitor, maybe run a stopwatch (any stopwatch that includes milliseconds) on your PC, connect both your monitor and PJ to it (either via two different outputs from the PC, or even better via an HDMI splitter), and take a photo of both displays (projected and monitor) with the stopwatch running. The difference displayed in the stopwatch between the projector and the monitor would give you a rough idea of the lag-difference between the two. It's not exact science of course, but it'd still provide some interesting insight...

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post #109 of 350 Old 01-25-2015, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kreeturez View Post
What about an objective measurement:

Unfortunately, I don't have a HDMI splitter. My card will support multiple monitors, but outputting the video on mixed ports (DVI, DP, and/or HDMI) would skew the results. Not sure if my camera will shoot at 1000th sec. I'm sure you could find more accurate and better analysis for each than I could produce.


Although, my ASUS monitor in my previous post stated a 1ms attribute, that is monitor response time and should NOT be confused with input lag. They are entirely different.. but in the end, both are very important to the user gaming experience. An input lag test for the ASUS monitor by Tom's Hardware came in at 23ms - but, I can't confirm the test was exactly the same as what Projector Central used in testing the HT1075 (apples and apples?). I found this explanation to be useful at the below link:


Response Time vs Input Lag:
http://www.displaylag.com/exposed-in...response-time/


"With a combined measurement for both response time and input lag, gamers can rest assured that a display is fast enough to reduce image ghosting, and responsive enough to register their inputs as soon as possible."


Input Lag DB resource for displays:
http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/


For what its worth... in the above DB, they assign input lag ratings for gaming related monitors as:
Excellent - less than 20ms
Great - 20 to 41ms
Okay - 42 to 62ms
Bad - greater than 63ms


All in all... I'm very happy with my HT-1075 for gaming... actually for everything. Awesome projector for the price.


~NV
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post #110 of 350 Old 01-25-2015, 11:16 AM
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just hooked up my 1085 yesterday and am very impressed with the picture I'm getting off an old bed sheet :-) New screen is on the way and can only imagine how good it will look.

Question: I ordered a 100" screen and am now wondering if I should have gone larger (120"). The couch is about 14' from the screen location. I saw the online distance calculators that basically suggested either are within range. My thought was that the 120" might be to large when in "couch potato mode (Ie lying down) as opposed to upright seating in a theater chair. Any advice appreciated.
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post #111 of 350 Old 01-25-2015, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e15757 View Post
just hooked up my 1085 yesterday and am very impressed with the picture I'm getting off an old bed sheet :-) New screen is on the way and can only imagine how good it will look.

Question: I ordered a 100" screen and am now wondering if I should have gone larger (120"). The couch is about 14' from the screen location. I saw the online distance calculators that basically suggested either are within range. My thought was that the 120" might be to large when in "couch potato mode (Ie lying down) as opposed to upright seating in a theater chair. Any advice appreciated.
Never mind, just found a thread on this very topic
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post #112 of 350 Old 01-25-2015, 10:06 PM
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Posted this in its own thread, but it seemed to get passed over quickly. This seems the closest thing I've seen to an official thread for the 1075.

Is it normal for the Benq HT1075 to have a very mechanical almost clicking/chirping type fan noise? It sounds like a cheap or possibly out of balance fan. I don't expect a fan to be silent. I expect to hear it running, but this is a more mechanical and audible noise than I usually notice from computer or fans of that size. With audio it is not or only slightly noticeable, but when there is no sound it is borderline irritating. Besides the fan noise I am very happy with the performance of the projector.

If I set it to high altitude mode, the fan gets louder and the clicking noise goes away. It seems to be present only when the fan is at low rpm, that or when the fan is at a higher rpm it is fast enough that the noise just becomes constant and becomes part of the drone.

Anyone else experience this? The click/chirp about drives me crazy during quiet scenes or if I'm navigating menus. I can tolerate the loud drone of high altitude mode better than the click/chirp. I've sent a message to the seller and the manufacturer with this question to get their input, but I don't expect to hear back from them until sometime after standard business hours comes around.
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post #113 of 350 Old 01-26-2015, 08:39 PM
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It is a little bothersome that Epson can put an iris in the 8345 and 3000 for $800/$1200 while inexpensive DLPs simply have to settle with a lack of physical iris. The DLP superior native contrast is great, but I doubt anyone would complain about having BOTH for around $1000.

Also, if you're feeling a little handy, you can make a 100"-110" BlackDiamond type screen for about $40 with no special tools or previous skills.
Sorry It took me a while to circle back to this topic. Thanks much for the $40 tip. That indeed is the path I will blaze. Much appreciated.
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post #114 of 350 Old 01-27-2015, 12:11 AM
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Sorry It took me a while to circle back to this topic. Thanks much for the $40 tip. That indeed is the path I will blaze. Much appreciated.
Just a heads-up, if you're planning on any type of special screen, get the w1070/1075 and NOT the short-throw w1080/w1085. Short-throw and ambient-light-rejecting screens don't mix well.
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Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #115 of 350 Old 01-27-2015, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
Just a heads-up, if you're planning on any type of special screen, get the w1070/1075 and NOT the short-throw w1080/w1085. Short-throw and ambient-light-rejecting screens don't mix well.

The PJ will be set up on a small 18" table/stand...about anywhere from 3' to 6' from a 16' wide by 10' high, solid white apartment wall when in use. I only plan to use it to watch movies/sport events/live concerts/occasional console games. All other duties including HDtv watching will be on my venerable workhorse Sony WD-34XBR970 HDCRT. With the PJ I want an image size of 70"-90" in that room (16'x24'). SO I will initially be using the solid white wall. And later in the year or next year switch to a dedicated screen. Any thoughts about which model would be better for my intended use? Meaning...Plug in via Darbee Darblet HDMI cable link/play/unplug/store away until further use.
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post #116 of 350 Old 01-27-2015, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by barrelbelly View Post
The PJ will be set up on a small 18" table/stand...about anywhere from 3' to 6' from a 16' wide by 10' high, solid white apartment wall when in use. I only plan to use it to watch movies/sport events/live concerts/occasional console games. All other duties including HDtv watching will be on my venerable workhorse Sony WD-34XBR970 HDCRT. With the PJ I want an image size of 70"-90" in that room (16'x24'). SO I will initially be using the solid white wall. And later in the year or next year switch to a dedicated screen. Any thoughts about which model would be better for my intended use? Meaning...Plug in via Darbee Darblet HDMI cable link/play/unplug/store away until further use.
If you're planning on using a flat/matte wall/screen/surface as a screen (sounds like you are) the short-throw will be fine and it's the only option that'll allow a 70"+ size inside of 6ft or less throw.
You shouldn't need a dark or fancy screen anyway as long as you can keep the sun at bay and try to keep lights from shining right onto the screen.
With the w1080/1085 being so bright at your screen size being so modest, you've got a pretty invincible plan.
A w1080/1085 on a short table, shining on a smooth/flat wall is a powerful combination for speedy theater.

The w1070/1075 is the better choice if you expect to have some light problems that require a specialty screen, but it will need about 6.5ft from lens-to-screen to make 70"diagonal.
Generally curtains and a lamp or two is the better option instead of a fancy screen.
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Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 01-27-2015 at 02:26 PM.
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post #117 of 350 Old 01-27-2015, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
If you're planning on using a flat/matte wall/screen/surface as a screen (sounds like you are) the short-throw will be fine and it's the only option that'll allow a 70"+ size inside of 6ft or less throw.
You shouldn't need a dark or fancy screen anyway as long as you can keep the sun at bay and try to keep lights from shining right onto the screen.
With the w1080/1085 being so bright at your screen size being so modest, you've got a pretty invincible plan.
A w1080/1085 on a short table, shining on a smooth/flat wall is a powerful combination for speedy theater.

The w1070/1075 is the better choice if you expect to have some light problems that require a specialty screen, but it will need about 6.5ft from lens-to-screen to make 70"diagonal.
Generally curtains and a lamp or two is the better option instead of a fancy screen.
Many thanks for the positive reply. The w1080/1085st is the plan now. And I've pretty much locked it in stone after your response. I retired (sort of). I still do the occasional executive consulting gig for extra change, golf money or just to keep busy. But not too much to make me feel obligated. My wife and I totally downsized from a 5200sf house to a 2200sf downtown top floor apartment in downtown Maynard Massachusetts and love it! I am going from a huge 1200sf dedicated HT that I used to sit in alone quite a bit. To a 350sf "speedy theater" (love that term!) that Both me and my wife will use together all of the time. The "speedy" HT wall will be in the dark non windowed side of the room. However...there is a big sliding, windowed door along one main wall of the living room that also connects to the dining area. I allows walk out to a private Patio deck. That is where I will focus my fight on ambient light. With a thick decorative drape. I'm 100% positive the wife will not allow me to completely black that room out. Again...thanks for the assistance. If I put the PJ 5' away...What is the biggest and best quality image I can get? This will only be necessary at night. Because I don't want to risk Light bleed from the sliding door during the daytime.
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post #118 of 350 Old 01-27-2015, 04:31 PM
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You should be able to get a ~95" diagonal image from 5ft away (lens to screen).
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Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #119 of 350 Old 02-01-2015, 06:07 AM
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Hey Matthew. Looking to purchase a HT1085ST. It's been a few months now since you purchased it, any change in your review? I guess I could read on for the next few pages of posts to see if you have added any more in terms of an updated review. But I figured I would be direct in my questioning. My setup will be mostly viewing whether day or night with minimal ambient light but there will be some of course during the day. What screen if any, did you pair it with? I'm thinking something in the range of 92-100 inches should suffice as my viewing distance will be about 10-11ft away. Because it is a ST projector, I'm thinking there will be plenty light coming out to offset some ambient light in fairly extreme cases. I don't intend to watch movies during the day with the curtains open obviously, but do you have any trouble in that department with ambient light and the screen you may have chosen? Not too many reviews to go off of so trying to get in touch with folks that have had it for a good amount of time. Thanks for any info you can respond with.
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post #120 of 350 Old 02-04-2015, 01:23 PM
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Well I'll chime in here as I recently purchased and installed the HT1085ST. I was moving from a Mitsubishi wd-82740 dlp tv and was concerned that this projector wasn't going to have as good of picture quality. I chose the ST as I needed short throw in the room I had dedicated and didn't want to see someones head on the screen if they stood up etc. We used a 106'' Silver Ticket screen and mounted according to the manufacture throw specs about 5'4-6 from the screen on the wall. After very brief calibration with Avia/WOW calibration disks and a few hours of break in time, I'm extremely pleased! The colors are very bright and overall accurate. The brightness can be either a light cannon or perfect dialed down somewhat. I loved both the normal and eco modes depending on whether or not I kick my back can lights on or not. With all lights on I did notice it get washed out, but I expected that scenario. The blacks are in fact as good as my mits dlp tv was without a doubt. I know there are better projectors out there, with better contrast levels etc. But for the price point to get this picture quality with 3D included, was fantastic in my book. I can say I highly recommend this and if you install and use in a room with controlled lighting I think you'll be quite pleased with it. I had relatives over who both own 70-80'' lcd and led tv's. They all wanted to upgrade to this setup now lol! And to your direct question I'd say you'd want to go with a silver/grey screen to help with that ambient lighting. I bought the white screen and works great in darkened or controlled room, probably not too good with direct ambient light though.

BenQ HT1085ST|Epson 5040UB|Silver Ticket 106'' Screen| Onkyo TX-NR3030| SVS Ultra Towers| SVS Ultra Center| SVS Ultra Surrounds| SVS Ultra Bookshelves| Def-Tech DI-8R in-ceiling speakers| PSA XS30SE subs| Buttkickers X's 4, 2 buttkicker amps| Oppo UDP-203| Darbee Darblet 5000| Monster HTS 5000 MKII| Carver 705x| PS4 w/VR|Xbox 360|Xbox One Forza Edition|Xbox w/coinops| Harmony Touch| Dell XPS 420 HTPC W/ Kodi W/12TB NAS| Seatcraft Adonis Seats| Monoprice & Sewell Direct cables|OmniMount RE42 Rack

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