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post #121 of 350 Old 02-07-2015, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
Just a heads-up, if you're planning on any type of special screen, get the w1070/1075 and NOT the short-throw w1080/w1085. Short-throw and ambient-light-rejecting screens don't mix well.
Well that's news to me.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-di...2-5-4-0-a.html

Seems to work just fine in the linked-to Thread above.
(Ftoast...that statement cannot be as broadly based as it is, and should go further to explain exactly "what type" of screen fits the statement. ie: Black Diamond-Da-Lite Hi Power-etc)

........and I'm counting on a BenQ w1085st to do well in a similar but even more "ambient light challenged" situation.

I have a showing in a Trade Expo in Memphis coming up between the 13th/15th of this month. (36th Wedding Anniversary on the 14th...Wife is "NOT" happy. )

In this case, I will be exhibiting the w1085st within a 13' x 10' booth, with 8' curtained walls, and a translucent Cloth Ceiling. No door....just a 8' x 13' wide space opening to the Isle, with 2000 watt Metal Halide Lamps hanging all around.

So....I'm planning for a 92" diagonal 16:9 screen which will be a painted Drywall surface, coated with Silver Fire v2.5 4.0 That is the same level of Silver Fire used in the Thread I linked to, and Silver Fire is most assuredly a Ambient Light fighting application

Throw distance will be from 5'...table mounted. Gonna have a 5.1 system in there, with the Screen also acting as the Center Channel via Transducers.

Over the last 4-5 years, as more people bring front projection into Family Room environments, and with Gaming becoming more popular by the day, short throw PJs definitely have a place in the scheme of things. Affordability combined with brightness, and acceptable Black levels when mated with a Contrast enhancing screen that does not gobble up lumen output is made to order for a very large segment of the population.

I will have 3 long days in which to make a thorough evaluation of the w1085st, as will about 12,000 other souls. I will be asking for written comments from those willing to provide such...be they good-bad-indifferent.
My experience has shown me that such varied exposure is the best bellwether by which to judge acceptance.

If anyone has any requests as far as content, or easily done comparison examples, an of which might help them make their own determination as to the usefulness and capability of the w1085st, make them here or PM me.

All that said, it was a bit disappointing to learn from this thread that the stated inclusion of Vertical Lens Shift is in error...although that won't affect my situation much. I will hate to use what Key Stone adjustment I will have to, being a table mount situation as it is, and my screen's bottom edge being at 48", but I suppose that also will serve as a opportunity to report back on the supposed ill effects of using such....or not.

Lots of images under this adverse lighting situation to come, so stay tuned. Not too long to wait.

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post #122 of 350 Old 02-07-2015, 11:21 AM
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I'm not sure how the lights will be positioned above you exactly and how much will be blocked between the curtains and the ceiling of your boxed area, but a reflective screen will likely do more harm than good compared to a similarly shaded flat/matte of the same color in your situation.

Having that short-throw being mounted below the screen (unless that screen is angled downward) will be using most/all of its gain to throw the brightest possible image toward the ceiling while giving a helping hand toward brightening the overhead lights toward the viewers...unless the screen's center is below head-level.
I understand that a less aggressive light-rejecting screen can be used with a (non-ultra) short-throw without necessarily showing a horrible hotspot, but it'll still require a weaker light-fighter AND the projector will still be throwing a majority of its brightness out to the extreme sides where nobody is likely to be watching from. ..It just isn't a good idea.

A curtained room with a bright w1085 paired to a smaller (92") screen sounds like a great combination...I just doubt the above-natural gain will be doing you any real favors with that ST, particularly with it table-mounted.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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Last edited by Ftoast; 02-08-2015 at 12:24 PM.
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post #123 of 350 Old 02-07-2015, 02:32 PM
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Your over obsessed with what you feel is gain because for you it deals a different hand. 1.2 - 1.3 Gain on a very dark SF surface, one whose surface can both absord and refract light....but do so without loss is what is in play here. It's not a solid, wholly opaque flat surface that comes by all of it's gain through only what happens on a surface level.

The w1085st can be adjusted across the brightness scale. And it's not a Ultra Short throw either.(-2'>) Any well thought out application can adapt to such adjust-ability.

The example I linked to was a 3000 lumen Short Throw onto a 106" surface. Can you point out any Hot Spotting in any of the 30-40 shots, all of which were taken in a wide variety of lighting situations? I did employ about 5-6 degrees of Tilt, but obviously to no real adverse effect. In this regard, mounting the w1085st either on a Table or Inverted makes no difference, primarily because I'll be building my own 20" x 20" x 40" Equipment Pedestal. (...yeah..."table" has turned into a bit of a misnomer...) and the PJ's len's center will be within 3-4" of the bottom of my 44" high screen.

So I'll be zerox-ing the screen from 4' - 8" straight on. If hot spot it will....then that'll certainly do it. If not.....some folks' thinking will have to be readjusted.

But'cha know...the purpose of my posts....on a thread almost solely dedicated to the w1085st, are intended to explore the potential of the PJ, and how well it can perform under insane lighting if certain criteria is met. I think the w1085st will demand even more of a following, and absolutely, if it continues to receive even a few small refinements (...LIKE LENS SHIFT ) then it stands to become as well received as the original w1070.

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post #124 of 350 Old 02-07-2015, 05:29 PM
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...and a big BTW.....even with the Curtained sides, the huge open light source up front, and what amounts to a gauzy, semi-transparent ceiling with intense lighting coming from above and all around....well lemmie tell ya sumpthin'....every single Lumen shot and every possible Foot Lambert reflected will count for something.

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post #125 of 350 Old 02-07-2015, 09:22 PM
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You might need to re-read my post. I said ultra-ST will hotspot, but a more conventional ST like the w1085 can be used on a screen with about 3X higher than natural gain for its shade without hotspotting. It's just that it'll be throwing most of the added brightness in the wrong directions while the screen makes the overhead lighting actually look worse depending on its position.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #126 of 350 Old 02-08-2015, 11:50 AM
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And I say that is a wrongful assertion based on little if any personal experience with such an application as Silver Fire. I take little heed of what happens with "other" screens. But I also don't take wild stabs in the dark either.

I read that you limited things to weaker "ambient light fighters", and that you stated that anything other would not utilize the light to best advantage....therein not be "a good idea".

Also; "... a reflective screen will likely do more harm than good compared to a similarly shaded flat/matte of the same color in your situation."

Man....we/you/ no one should make a decision based on "likely"...but more so, statements like the above can tend to dissuade people from trying something based on what amounts to being little more than a guess.

And it seemed kinda strange to see a comment saying that a PJ mounted at / below screen level might even ever be considered to being tilted "downward"? (...the w1085st have virtually no Offset...) I don't think I have ever seen a post where someone even referred to placing the image below the screen......That is so unnatural and misdirected it's simply dismissive in nature.

Those are very definitive statements, and it all seems to purport to discont the whole thing as being a feckless endeavor.

Now honestly...if you actually had some experience using similar PJs and Screen surfaces, is such situations, and could make such statements based on that, I would take a different bent toward your comments.

But as they stand, they merely seem negative, and have no weight behind them except for any basic conventional thinking you might have read concerning "other screens"and how they react. Yes, we all pass along information we have read....but have not always tried. And sometimes it can get us in trouble. Myself...I've gotten whacked a few times.

I personally have great confidence in what is about to transpire. I feel the selection of the PJ, the determined Screen size, the type / shade of Screen surface, and what small concessions are being made toward mitigating the intense light that will be present should all come together to present something that will be obviously special to all who see it.

I can feel confident because of having worked around such caveats before, and having done so without the benefit of a 1080p Short Throw PJ with uber lumen output, decent contrast, or a location where I had some degree of control over my environment, and a screen that is absolutely geared for the job.

I got all that this time around.

So let's just wait and see what happens...because at this conjecture, the w1085st is a absolute given. My use of such is why I posted on this thread, so hopefully I can soon focus on how it performed....

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post #127 of 350 Old 02-08-2015, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
1. And I say that is a wrongful assertion based on little if any personal experience with such an application as Silver Fire.

2. I read that you limited things to weaker "ambient light fighters", and that you stated that anything other would not utilize the light to best advantage....therein not be "a good idea".

3.. no one should make a decision based on "likely"...but more so, statements like the above can tend to dissuade people from trying something based on what amounts to being little more than a guess.

4. And it seemed kinda strange to see a comment saying that a PJ mounted at / below screen level might even ever be considered to being tilted "downward"? (...the w1085st have virtually no Offset...) I don't think I have ever seen a post where someone even referred to placing the image below the screen......That is so unnatural and misdirected it's simply dismissive in nature.
1. You don't think the angular-reflective screen will reflect the bulk of its peak-gain toward the equal/opposite position of the projector?

2. I specified weaker/3X shade:gain because that paired with a short-throw will have the same brightness uniformity as a stronger/10X shade:gain screen paired with a 1.5:1throw PJ.

3. People can try or not try whatever they want I suppose, but a starting choice that's more likely to succeed in spades can save both money and frustration.

4. I mentioned about you possibly tilting the screen downward, not the projector..that'd be silly.
Edited now for clarity..my bad there.


I guess I should be more precise. You will end up with a screen/projector pair which will have the poorer uniformity of a fairly aggressive screen but about 1/3-1/4 of the contrast benefits. The result will be made worse by having the projector mounted below the screen rather than above.
I'm not saying it won't work or won't look alright, just that it's an inefficient setup that isn't all working to the gear's strengths.

The 1085 is a great projector, but a 1075 (when possible) can be paired with a much more aggressive screen to combat light OR paired with a similarly less aggressive screen and show better uniformity than the short-throw.
And placement is always important with any non-matte screen..even if the difference is smaller for light-colored screens or those with less added gain.


Because I'm assuming you'll personally require the 1085 for space reasons and you must not be able to mount above the screen; tilting the screen downward will both help minimize the overhead-light washout AND guide more of the projected light toward the audience. ..both should hold true whether or not you'll be using digital-keystone-correction.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

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post #128 of 350 Old 02-08-2015, 04:46 PM
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Update post #87:


Found time to troubleshoot... It turns out NOT to be a problem with the audio on the HT1075, but with the way I had to connect my HTPC audio through my AV receiver. So, the crackling noise has been fixed. However, it would be great to have a future PJ firmware upgrade that would retain the PJ audio mute setting between power down / power up cycles. Other settings are retained during power down / power up cycles, why not mute?


Can anyone else check their mute setting. If you turn on mute, pwr down, pwr up is mute still on? (without unplugging the PJ). Thx!
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post #129 of 350 Old 02-09-2015, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post

The 1085 is a great projector, but a 1075 (when possible) can be paired with a much more aggressive screen to combat light OR paired with a similarly less aggressive screen and show better uniformity than the short-throw.

And placement is always important with any non-matte screen..even if the difference is smaller for light-colored screens or those with less added gain.


Because I'm assuming you'll personally require the 1085 for space reasons and you must not be able to mount above the screen; tilting the screen downward will both help minimize the overhead-light washout AND guide more of the projected light toward the audience. ..both should hold true whether or not you'll be using digital-keystone-correction.
As I mentioned in my first post, this is a 15' x 15' "Booth"* with 8' Curtained side panels....and no Ceiling. The Show People are going to stretch a Curtain across the top...but it is not opaque by any stretch of reasoning....merely a light dampener. Also, keep well in mind that even with a Ceiling shroud, I'm not cutting this application much slack, owning to the fact that I will have a full 15' opening into a Isle way...and the light outside will be brighter than virtually any home situation could ever experience. What that amounts to is a extremely intense, but indirect ambient light source directly opposite the screen and behind the Projector. I could have placed the screen within a 3 sided enclosure whose entrance was at right angle to the primary opening....but then if I did so, I would be guilty of trying to make things easy. Can't do that !!!
* One reason I switched to a 15' x 15'er was so I could have a bit more room between the entrance and the PJ/Equipment Pedestal, so that the enthralled crowds can pack inside. But more importantly, I need a 24" deep rear "Flat" 3/4" Plywood panel that the Wall assemblies are attached to that will allow me to place Sand Bags for stationary support. Can't have walls toppling onto Show Goers. Hurts the reputation.

Because of that last item, tilting a screen that is made of 2 x 4s and that is part of a Wall that is 84" wide x 82" tall just ain't an option. Besides, tilting would represent a "one off" example meant to optimize the showing....not anything I would ever consider doing in any actual installation.

My second post stated I will be placing the PJ at 40" off the floor, just 2-3" below the screen, so any needed tilt will be almost insignificant.

But on that note, I have done a lot of reading about the 1085, and at least 2 reviewers still mentioned it's Vertical Lens Shift! Looked further at those sources and through this thread (...admittedly more like glanced...) and did not find a definitive "No, it doesn't have it...and I know because I own one."

Well, my unit will arrive in about 1-2 hours, and I'll know the true answer. If it does have LS, then even more concerns will be abated.

Lastly, absolute perfection is something few achieve. Compromises abound in the real world. It falls to the end user to manipulate the things they can so as to achieve the best balance between any positives and negatives.

As such, I have been, and will continue to take all such things into account...and I can / will make any necessary adjustments when needed...if possible. That should make my evaluation of the w1085st a pretty through one as far as it's raw performance when mated with a screen that I feel is ideally suited to the occasion. The Screen has enough gain to compensate for any lost through PJ placement...or the brightness of the PJ can be braked down in that regard if needed. The Screen itself will boost the depth of the Blacks, and will retain great Whites and Colors, aided by the Projector's own more than adequate Lumen output.

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post #130 of 350 Old 02-09-2015, 11:26 AM
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OK....just found the Cretin sitting on my doorstep.

Un-boxed it....and unless it turns out it has a internal vertical Image repositioning feature, it does not have Vertical Lens shift.

At my throw distance of 4' 10" I will have 1.1" of vertical offset, so really, almost no offset at all at that distance.

PS: (...just looked at the Pdf manual....clearly states Vertical lens shift is on the 1075 only...)

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post #131 of 350 Old 02-09-2015, 04:57 PM
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So I finally managed to get my HT1075 setup and I couldn't be happier with it. I have it right around 11' from the screen and am projecting (what I think is) a beautiful 120" image. Our furthest seating right now is about 13' from the screen and to us, it doesn't appear to be too far at all. When I designed the room for wiring I was expecting to use HDMI over CAT6 cables, but the added cost and trouble of finding good baluns made me opt for the wireless kit. So far I have had no trouble with the wireless and it was certainly better than trying to fish HDMI through 12" ceiling joists. We also have WIFI in the house along with wireless Dish Network and I haven't had any interference yet. (Dish has had a little trouble bridging the distance but not the BenQ wireless. Totally worth the extra for me.

I have done a little gaming with it and I don't notice any lag. Granted my reflexes aren't that fast to begin with but no lag of note for me. I haven't tried 3D yet. Still working on picking out some good glasses.

Even though I haven't had much projector experience, this was an excellent start into what promises to be great entertainment!
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post #132 of 350 Old 02-13-2015, 02:51 PM
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Does anyone know the input lag measurements for Benq HT1085ST?
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post #133 of 350 Old 02-13-2015, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weblogic View Post
Does anyone know the input lag measurements for Benq HT1085ST?
It should be ~49ms according to newer ProjectorCentral testing which has been showing everything higher than previously. ..old tests would've shown it ~33ms.

If you're concerned about it, the older w1080st measured even faster, costs less, and the only thing you'll be losing is MHL on the hdmi.
Otherwise, I haven't yet heard anyone complain about the slightly higher lag affecting performance..though it is always sad to see a good product go backwards.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 02-13-2015 at 09:13 PM.
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post #134 of 350 Old 02-14-2015, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
It should be ~49ms according to newer ProjectorCentral testing which has been showing everything higher than previously. ..old tests would've shown it ~33ms.

If you're concerned about it, the older w1080st measured even faster, costs less, and the only thing you'll be losing is MHL on the hdmi.
Otherwise, I haven't yet heard anyone complain about the slightly higher lag affecting performance..though it is always sad to see a good product go backwards.

Concur, the DLP projector input lag is your only projector lag consideration.


- For DLP projectors - total gaming lag time considerations should include cpu + video card + and PJ input lag.


- For LCD projectors - same as DLP + LCD response time or GTG (grey-to-grey pixel) lag.


All this with your own perceived and acceptable eye-hand coordination and reflex time...


DLP projectors have response times measured in microseconds...
http://www.ti.com/lsds/ti/dlp-techno...advantage.page


(post 107/109)


Unfortunately, you can't just roll down to a store with your PC and fire up your FPS connected to a projector on the show room floor to test the lag. It's a leap of faith.. but that's what return policies are all about... - turned out good for me, I can't tell a difference. gl


~NV
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post #135 of 350 Old 02-15-2015, 11:21 AM
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While I used to be a huge gamer, my interests have changed so now I only play now and then. My two sons on the other hand..... My youngest is what I would consider a hardcore gamer. Especially when it comes to first person shooters. He has given me two thumbs up on the HT1075 saying that it's better than out 60" Panasonic plasma as far as lag goes. I have now added a Darby Darblett 5000 in the chain and he said he has not noticed any difference in lag.
I really don't think you will have an issue.
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post #136 of 350 Old 02-16-2015, 12:42 AM
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Now that the 1075 can be had for only about $100 more than the 1070, is it worth it to get this instead? Or would it still be better to pocket the difference and get the 1070? I read reviews that mostly say they are the same, except the 1075 is a touch brighter, and also one review that said that while both could be calibrated very close to reference, the 1070 was actually more accurate out of the box.

If they really did make it harder to get dust blobs inside it then I'd like the 1075 better, but I'm not sure if that's true or not?

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post #137 of 350 Old 02-17-2015, 02:00 PM
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Hello My HT1075 should be arriving tomorrow! Can't wait. Already have the 120" 1.0 Gain Grey Screen from Silver Ticket ready! Plan to put on a center table approx.10 to 13' from wall and seating is just behind that. Using the 1.5 formula for viewing distance. Any suggestions or calibration settings on this forum for this PJ? New to the PJ scene and looking for advice tips. Play Cod games on 360, we all watch 3D and lots of movies and sports. Will have tv on side for channel surfing. : ) I will try to post pics this weekend. Any advice appreciated.BTW mostly night time viewing.
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post #138 of 350 Old 02-17-2015, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derod68 View Post
Hello My HT1075 should be arriving tomorrow! Can't wait. Already have the 120" 1.0 Gain Grey Screen from Silver Ticket ready! Plan to put on a center table approx.10 to 13' from wall and seating is just behind that. Using the 1.5 formula for viewing distance. Any suggestions or calibration settings on this forum for this PJ? New to the PJ scene and looking for advice tips. Play Cod games on 360, we all watch 3D and lots of movies and sports. Will have tv on side for channel surfing. : ) I will try to post pics this weekend. Any advice appreciated.BTW mostly night time viewing.
The settings right out of the box are very very nice but I use some of this:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/benq...-and-settings/

Mode: Cinema with Smart Eco

Contrast ( 50 )= 49

Brightness ( 50 )= 51

Gamma= 2.4

I don't know if I miss something but those little changes improves.

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post #139 of 350 Old 02-17-2015, 08:44 PM
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Thanks MDST! Will try those settings! I used this site to help with decision of which 3D PJ I wanted but missed settings. Wonder if anyone uses as primary Display otherwise I can put my TV in sons room since I'm sure he would love a 60" !
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post #140 of 350 Old 02-19-2015, 08:11 AM
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Received my HT1075 yesterday and WOW! I had to temporarily put some old Xbox game boxes under the back of PJ to get pic down a little. Wondering what is a better permanent solution since instructions say not to tilt so much. I have on a center loving room table 100' from screen (minimum distance max zoom) for 120" screen. Is this normal? Tried lens shift but still. I'd seen a few YouTube vids on this PJ where people were doing and now I know why. Otherwise....Mind blowing pics. Also a little fatiguing on the eyes on 3D albeit looks superb. Wonder if IR gives less strain. Guess that's for another forum? Ghost on the 360 was awesome and looked like I had adjusted sensitivity in options but I hadn'. Guess that's what happens when u go from a Plasma with worst input lag to this which was nic. Big screen is a disadvantage when trying to see who is coming around corners though which is a bumber. Oh well...can't have it all
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post #141 of 350 Old 02-19-2015, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derod68 View Post
Received my HT1075 yesterday and WOW! I had to temporarily put some old Xbox game boxes under the back of PJ to get pic down a little. Wondering what is a better permanent solution since instructions say not to tilt so much. I have on a center loving room table 100' from screen (minimum distance max zoom) for 120" screen. Is this normal? Tried lens shift but still. I'd seen a few YouTube vids on this PJ where people were doing and now I know why. Otherwise....Mind blowing pics. Also a little fatiguing on the eyes on 3D albeit looks superb. Wonder if IR gives less strain. Guess that's for another forum? Ghost on the 360 was awesome and looked like I had adjusted sensitivity in options but I hadn'. Guess that's what happens when u go from a Plasma with worst input lag to this which was nic. Big screen is a disadvantage when trying to see who is coming around corners though which is a bumber. Oh well...can't have it all
You definitely don't want to tilt the unit, since that will introduce the dreaded keystone distortions that your lens shift is supposed to address. Try to keep the lens exactly square with the screen.

How high is your table? I have mine (albeit the ST version) on a coffee table, and that works pretty well. If your table's too high, you might just have to get something lower, or ceiling mount it.

Also, something to check: when I got my first one, someone had already set the keystone adjustment to +9. You should make sure yours are at 0. That and several other factors led to me strongly believe I had been sold an open box item as new, so I just returned mine and ordered a new one from Amazon.

Oh, and make sure your front post hasn't accidentally deployed.

And yes, I agree. Video gaming is a lot harder when you can't see the entire field of view at the same time
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post #142 of 350 Old 02-20-2015, 03:24 PM
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Thanks for advice. I was able to correct the tilt issue by turning legs on back to lift, different position of table and lens shift with no keystone. : ) Can anyone post their best settings for instance where lots of light in room? Is this how most projectors look in Brightly lit room? Surprised at how quiet it is and 3D NO CROSSTALK! Breath of fresh air over 3D Plasma. So far very pleased but not so much with daytime viewing. Very washy. Oh...no RBE to report as of yet!

Last edited by derod68; 02-20-2015 at 03:26 PM.
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post #143 of 350 Old 02-26-2015, 10:18 AM
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Does anyone know the length of the ht1075's power cord? I'm trying to decide what length extension cord to get.

Speaking of, anyone have any particular extension cords they recommend? What power strips are everyone using to plug all their equipment in?
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post #144 of 350 Old 02-26-2015, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by godzillinois View Post
Does anyone know the length of the ht1075's power cord? I'm trying to decide what length extension cord to get.
Speaking of, anyone have any particular extension cords they recommend? What power strips are everyone using to plug all their equipment in?

Pretty sure its 10 feet. I know... surprised me too - I was expecting like 6 feet. I don't use a ext cord for PJ. My PJ plugs into a custom HT ceiling surge protected outlet. Rest of my HT equipment is plugged into two Flexigon6 Outlet Flexible Power Strip w/ 2 USB Ports . Good protection - no problems after several power blackouts and brownouts. I also like the power strip's flexibility for all the big power adaptor plugs to all fit without interfering with adjacent plugs. The two USB charging ports per strip also comes in handy for charging my wireless headset, iphone, ipad, 3D active glasses, etc without sucking up all my PC USB ports. 1200 joules is reasonable surge protection. But there are lots of others that will work too. All depends on the amount of money you want to throw at it. Picked them on sale for $20/ea...
**Each strip has 4 outlets + 2 USB


If you need lots plugs here's 12...
BelkinBE112234-10 SurgeMaster Professional

~NV

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post #145 of 350 Old 02-27-2015, 04:50 PM
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Does anyone use the lens cover? I don't when not in use. Should I ?

Last edited by derod68; 02-27-2015 at 04:51 PM.
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post #146 of 350 Old 02-27-2015, 05:26 PM
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As for the dust cap, why even bother.
I always put the dust cap back on, after turning my 1080st off, thinking that will help keep some dust from settling on the lens.
So your saying the cap is useless?

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post #147 of 350 Old 02-28-2015, 09:09 AM
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Just got the 1075 hooked up to the ceiling, and adjusted the keystone. Everything looks great the only problem is when I turn off the projector and then turn it back on I have to reset the keystone again to fit the screen. Is this a defect or am I just missing something? I have tried resetting to defaults and doing the setup again and I still have the same results.
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post #148 of 350 Old 02-28-2015, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by coolcat4843 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post
As for the dust cap, why even bother.
I always put the dust cap back on, after turning my 1080st off, thinking that will help keep some dust from settling on the lens.
So your saying the cap is useless?
I don't think anything right now since so new to the projector scene. I actually did one time and thought might slightly knock out the zoom or something. However, I will if 1 or few suggests is a good idea to do so.
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post #149 of 350 Old 02-28-2015, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by middlevil View Post
Just got the 1075 hooked up to the ceiling, and adjusted the keystone. Everything looks great the only problem is when I turn off the projector and then turn it back on I have to reset the keystone again to fit the screen. Is this a defect or am I just missing something? I have tried resetting to defaults and doing the setup again and I still have the same results.
Happening to me too but thought it might be due to even putting 1 or more settings to default. I will def see if happens again without trying to revert anything to defaults. Trying so many settings in different lighting that I reset but will look out to see of happens again.

Last edited by derod68; 02-28-2015 at 09:59 AM.
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post #150 of 350 Old 02-28-2015, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by derod68 View Post
Does anyone use the lens cover? I don't when not in use. Should I ?
Only if I'm going to pack the projector off somewhere like my backyard.
The lens sits vertical shrouded in the housing. Falling dust isn't going to land on it.
I wouldn't be surprised if it actually collects the most dust when the projector is on because of the hot surface and the fans blowing everything around.

Every 6 months or so I give the lens a wipe down with a very soft cloth. I really don't notice any difference before and after, though the lens gets bumped and needs to be refocused of course.

Each to their own, but don't bother.
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