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post #61 of 117 Old 10-14-2014, 03:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kraine View Post
In comparaison with the BenQ W1070/W1070+ I prefer the Optoma...
Thank you for the good review!

A few questions:
-In the review you discovered some chromatic aberration in the 161x. However, in the Benq w1300 you found no signs of it. How about with the W1070/W1070+? I read the review but saw no reference to chromatic aberration... I am very interested in this because the only thing I'm not that happy with my W1070 is the chromatic aberration... I can live with the gray blacks, but the CA ends up as lower sharpness... How would you compare both on this regard? Would it be worthy replacing the W1070 with the 161x for this, or I will end up with similar complaints? Furthermore, at which extent I might have got a bad W1070 unit? I am using a 3m wide screen, so, probably I might being asking too much by expecting little or no CA...

-how about focus uniformity? Are you able to focus perfectly the whole screen? With my W1070 I can never get it uniformly focused...

-Is the image completely rectangular? with my W1070 I get the top of the image rectangle bend downwards, and yes, I have it correctly set up.
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post #62 of 117 Old 10-26-2014, 12:26 PM
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Only difference is the Ansi Lumens

Quote:
Originally Posted by EManT2200 View Post
No, I do not believe that they can be the same. If you read the specs on the HD50 and the HD161x you will immediately see that the contrast ratio of the HD50 states 50,000:1 and the HD161x states 40,000:1. The HD26 list the contrast ratio as 25,000:1 and the HD141x list it as 20,000:1. So, there will be differences , however small.

They are all the same,What changes the contrast ratio is the different ANSI Lumens. Same hardware different bulbs.
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post #63 of 117 Old 10-26-2014, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Optoma told me on Friday the hardware is same for the sister models, its done at board/firmware levels.


I was trying to get a 100% answer if the HD151x has same RGB/RGB wheel as the HD36.


It could have be same hardware with a white segment wheel like the HD131xe had.
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post #64 of 117 Old 10-28-2014, 01:38 AM
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Does anyone know the offset on this projector? I can't seem to find that info.

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post #65 of 117 Old 10-28-2014, 05:49 AM - Thread Starter
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It is sister model of the HD50 so the same.


Offset115% ~ 130%


http://www.optoma.co.uk/projectordet...inment&PC=HD50
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post #66 of 117 Old 10-28-2014, 09:16 AM
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Thank you

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Originally Posted by jh30uk View Post
It is sister model of the HD50 so the same.


Offset115% ~ 130%


http://www.optoma.co.uk/projectordet...inment&PC=HD50

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post #67 of 117 Old 11-11-2014, 06:03 PM
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The Optoma HD161x is now $1092.22 at Amazon.com. But, they now charge tax of course. Still, a good price.
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post #68 of 117 Old 11-11-2014, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jh30uk View Post
Optoma told me on Friday the hardware is same for the sister models, its done at board/firmware levels.


I was trying to get a 100% answer if the HD151x has same RGB/RGB wheel as the HD36.


It could have be same hardware with a white segment wheel like the HD131xe had.
Optoma France told me that it has an RGBRGB wheel.
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post #69 of 117 Old 11-12-2014, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EManT2200 View Post
The Optoma HD161x is now $1092.22 at Amazon.com. But, they now charge tax of course. Still, a good price.




And now, back up to $1299.99 today. Must have been just a one day sale.
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post #70 of 117 Old 12-02-2014, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EManT2200 View Post
And now, back up to $1299.99 today. Must have been just a one day sale.
camelcamelcamel shows no dip to 1092$

I posted this elsewhere but just realized that HD50 is same as HD161x, so here is my Q to you guys....

I have absolutely loved the 3D on HD33 but it's 1800 lumens was too dim for my 120". Fell in love with Epson3010 that produces brilliant 2D and 3D on my 150" with its 2200 lumens. But the cross-talk is getting to bother me finally after 3 years! and am craving for the HD33 like 3D with 3010 like brightness.

Now my TV is broke so, want to use this opportunity to upgrade my PJ. Plan to move the 3010 to a 70-80" screen where its brightness would allow a decent replacement of a TV.

I hear HD161X has RGBRGB like HD33 but only slighly better in lumens, which is a bummer.

Was looking at HD25-LV for its 3200 lumen brightness but comments here say that its not a worthy successor of HD33 due to not using RGBRGB wheel.

Finally HD26 (HD141X) is selling for $550 on Amazon and seems to be a much better deal than HD25-LV given it too has 3000 lumens. Any opinions on color accuracy of HD26?
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post #71 of 117 Old 12-02-2014, 07:40 PM
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camelcamelcamel ? Is that supposed to have some sort of meaning behind it ?
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post #72 of 117 Old 12-02-2014, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falafala View Post
I hear HD161X has RGBRGB like HD33 but only slighly better in lumens, which is a bummer.

Was looking at HD25-LV for its 3200 lumen brightness but comments here say that its not a worthy successor of HD33 due to not using RGBRGB wheel.

Finally HD26 (HD141X) is selling for $550 on Amazon and seems to be a much better deal than HD25-LV given it too has 3000 lumens. Any opinions on color accuracy of HD26?
The hd33 had about 1000lumens.
The hd50/161x has about 1400lumens. The w1070/w1075 has about 1400lumens.
The hd36/151x has somewhere around 2000+lumens.
The hd25lv has around 800-900lumens.
The hd26/141x has around 600-700lumens.
Your 3010 is capable of 1400-1600lumens.

^^^These are color lumens. Not bleached white with pale colors or cheated green-tinted whites.

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Last edited by Ftoast; 12-02-2014 at 08:39 PM.
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post #73 of 117 Old 12-02-2014, 09:05 PM
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Wow that is interesting! What's the diff between color lumens and the white lumens? How did you get these numbers? So looks like I need to look for hd36 for best lumens?
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post #74 of 117 Old 12-03-2014, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EManT2200 View Post
camelcamelcamel ? Is that supposed to have some sort of meaning behind it ?
Its a pricetracker for amazon

http://camelcamelcamel.com/Optoma-HD...context=browse
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post #75 of 117 Old 12-03-2014, 09:54 PM
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Wow that is interesting! What's the diff between color lumens and the white lumens? How did you get these numbers? So looks like I need to look for hd36 for best lumens?
It is pretty crazy how far the companies are allowed and willing to exaggerate.

The difference is mostly with DLPs, though LCDs can also exaggerate white by having really strong greens with weak reds and blues. DLPs (and certain rare LCDs) can add white segments (or white pixels/panels if LCD) which lets more bright white through while leaving less room for color. Remember that light must be split and used in individual beams for each color which are then reconnected and shot out the front lens. If some of the beam is divided off to be used for a white section, that leaves less light for the colors.
Normally you just use the red/green/blue colors and combine for white..this leaves white properly bright in relation to the colors. Since boosting white brightness with an added white section takes away from color light, you not only end up with dimmer colors, but an oddly bright white and by compare.
The color-brightness is how bright a balanced white will be..that is how bright red+green+blue are altogether.

Certain 3rd-party review sites take measurements of colorbrightness or properly calibrated brightness (a proper calibration includes balanced RGBW luminance/brightness).

If you can handle the extra noise (really bright projectors need more fan-power to keep cool) the hd36 or hd151x is a small sun.
Otherwise, the hd50/hd161x or w1070/w1075 should be very close to your old Epson and a bit quieter than the hd36/151x.

The Optoma's have a longer throw and can use some fancier 3D options (purchased separately), but are higher priced and have been showing video-noise and crashing problems on the current firmware (should be fixed with updates or later purchase dates).
The w1070/1075 is lower-priced, but it only uses the DLPlink 3D (which is still a very good 3D) and has a shorter throw which means you'll likely have to mount it closer to your screen..it also isn't as bright as the hd36/151x, obviously.
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post #76 of 117 Old 12-06-2014, 02:18 AM
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Can please someone tell me how to output bluray iso with powerdvd/totalmedia in 3d on optoma hd161??
I have nvidia gtx760 connected with 10m hdmi1.4
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post #77 of 117 Old 12-11-2014, 09:09 AM
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Hi everyone.

I have this projector and I'm really satisfied.

Just a question: is it possible to crop the image via software instead using the zoom? In my previous projector (mitsubishi hc3100) I would add black bars at steps using a Shutter function.

This is a similar solution with this Optoma?

Thanks in advance
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post #78 of 117 Old 12-11-2014, 12:41 PM
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I currently have a 131x looking for upgrade.

Two questions will the RF glasses be compatible.

Based on the above post #72 I should see dramatic improvement in "real" contrast correct?
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post #79 of 117 Old 12-11-2014, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by colofan View Post
I currently have a 131x looking for upgrade.

Two questions will the RF glasses be compatible.

Based on the above post #72 I should see dramatic improvement in "real" contrast correct?
I'm pretty sure the emitter/glasses combo that works with the 131 also works with the 161.
If you've been using the 131 with brilliantcolor set low (1-3ish) you'll notice both a jump in contrast and in brightness, if you've been using g it with brilliantcolor set at 6-10 then it's kind of a toss-up depending on what you mainly watch (muted colored stuff will look pretty contrasty on the 131 at higher BC settings while bolder-colored content will look weaker at any BC setting compared to the 161).
Also it seems to depend on the person. I noticed and was bothered by the 131's color-balance and lack of full-color contrast right away while others seem not to notice or care..though to be fair, there's also a bunch of happy 2030 users who don't mind its 300:1 contrast so "different strokes" I guess.

For the price of the 161, if you're worried about contrast, you might want to look out for a similarly prices Panasonic ae8000. That'll give a much larger improvement along with other neat features for around $1500.
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post #80 of 117 Old 12-12-2014, 08:21 AM
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When it comes to the vesa 3D rf glasses for the Optomas, is there anything out there that's in the $20 or less range.
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post #81 of 117 Old 01-21-2015, 01:31 PM
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Okay so installed a much bigger screen 116 width to 130 width. I have been running low BC because of the goofiness (green tint issue) with 3D. What I understand then is in a screen 25% bigger (total light controlled room) I should see a big jump in contrast.

The panasonic requires another 18 inches depth. not sure I got enough room for that. Should I be looking at other models?
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post #82 of 117 Old 01-25-2015, 09:03 AM
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Review's up...Art seems to like it.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/opto...jector-review/

I think I will pick one up at Costco and give it a go. Just a little worried about input lag for gaming.

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post #83 of 117 Old 01-29-2015, 05:54 PM
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Well, I received my unit from Costco yesterday. Excitedly took down my Benq 1070 and replaced it with the Optoma. Fired it up an unfortunately the throw ratio is a little different than the 1070 so my mount would need to be moved a few inches back. For my test drive it was good enough as it almost filled my 130" screen. First impressions...It's brighter than I thought it would be. It easily bested my 1070 in brightness, granted I have over 1,000 hours on the bulb. As stated in projector reviews, the colors are off which was immediately noticeable. I tried my best to tweak them given their supplied settings but it always seemed to have a green tinge to the picture. I was excited to try their dynamic black until I actually saw it in action...it is horrible! Very noticeable and distracting so it was turned off. With it off, I would say that black levels and contrast were no better than the 1070. Next I decided to audition some 3D. I am one of the few who seem to love 3D and enjoy it on my Benq but was looking forward to using the Optoma's frame interpolation to smooth things out a bit. I am using a Himedia 3D media player playing full 3D ISO's which have played flawlessly with the Benq. For the life of me I could not get the Optoma and the Himedia to play nicely together. When I could manage to get a picture from the Optoma it was all purple/pink. I tried adjusting colorspaces on the media player but was unable to solve the problem. I next tried my Open Hour Chameleon. It plays the 3D ISO's as SBS on my Benq. On the Optoma I couldn't even get the projector to sync. I then fired up the XB1 to try some gaming...I can't even begin to tell you how horrible the lag is on this projector. I turned off all the image enhancements and had the projector in game mode but it was essentially unplayable. So, unfortunately this unit is a total bust for me. It got packed back up and I re-installed my trusty Benq 1070. Thank God for Costco's return policy.

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post #84 of 117 Old 01-31-2015, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
The hd33 had about 1000lumens.
The hd50/161x has about 1400lumens. The w1070/w1075 has about 1400lumens.
The hd36/151x has somewhere around 2000+lumens.
The hd25lv has around 800-900lumens.
The hd26/141x has around 600-700lumens.
Your 3010 is capable of 1400-1600lumens.

^^^These are color lumens. Not bleached white with pale colors or cheated green-tinted whites.
Excellent summary.

I ended up with the 141X and after calibration get around 700 lumens.

Don't under-estimate what 700 lumens can do - depending on your screen size and environment. I still find it blindingly bright!
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post #85 of 117 Old 01-31-2015, 05:29 AM
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Excellent summary.

I ended up with the 141X and after calibration get around 700 lumens.

Don't under-estimate what 700 lumens can do - depending on your screen size and environment. I still find it blindingly bright!
Thanks. I love the few reviewers and members (some here) that take the time to perform actual measurements so folks can compare true numbers to find what's important for specific situations.

I totally understand. Switch over to eco-lamp and you'll see what my typical brightness is for the 110" screen in the family room.
With appropriate gamma and brightness settings, low lumens are no joke.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #86 of 117 Old 02-25-2015, 03:27 PM
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I see that this thread appears dead, but, just thought I would let people know that there has been a price drop AGAIN at Amazon.com. Today it is priced at $1099.00. I think I may have lost interest myself, but, that could change maybe, sometime, ...............maybe.............................. ....
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post #87 of 117 Old 03-14-2015, 04:54 PM
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Hey guys! I presently have an OPTOMA HD20 which has served me well but now (thanks to the tax man) I'm upgrading. Trouble is i can't decide between the HD26 or the HD161x. The HD26 is $685 on Amazon and the HD161x is $1099 BUT i'm not a gamer but i've heard the lag on the 161x is terrible and the "Dynamic Black" is annoying. The DB can be disabled. I have a light controlled theatre so what i'm looking for is INCREDIBLE movies that POP. From what i've researched the 161x is a RGBRGB wheel but i've heard 4x? Hope not. I want as much functional contrast so even with the DB off it's GOT to blow the HD20 away. Any and all opinions appreciated, i've read thru this discussion and so far leaning to 161 especially with the new calibration settings on Projector Reviews.com.
Thanx
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post #88 of 117 Old 04-25-2015, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
if you've been using g it with brilliantcolor set at 6-10 then it's kind of a toss-up depending on what you mainly watch (muted colored stuff will look pretty contrasty on the 131 at higher BC settings while bolder-colored content will look weaker at any BC setting compared to the 161).
.
Ftoast, I'm getting an Optoma 161x to replace my 131x, was concerned about brightness for 3D, but you swayed me that it's going to be on par. I don't have brilliant color more than 3 on the 131 and it's bright enough in bright mode for 3D. I like the 131x, but I miss the motion control and other features that I had with the HD33. Do you use native brightness on the 161x for 3D--or what is your recommendation to make the 161x as bright as possible without destroying the contrast/color?
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post #89 of 117 Old 04-26-2015, 02:40 PM
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Ftoast, I'm getting an Optoma 161x to replace my 131x, was concerned about brightness for 3D, but you swayed me that it's going to be on par. I don't have brilliant color more than 3 on the 131 and it's bright enough in bright mode for 3D. I like the 131x, but I miss the motion control and other features that I had with the HD33. Do you use native brightness on the 161x for 3D--or what is your recommendation to make the 161x as bright as possible without destroying the contrast/color?
"Native" is usually too green (the 131's brightest mode actually did surprisingly well for this at the expense of measured brightness, but I wouldn't count on it for the 161).

It helps to do picture adjustment while using the 3D and while the room is as bright as it'll be during viewing. Turn BC on (it'll still be more accurate then the 131 with it at 1) and lamp to full if it isn't too loud for you. Setting Brightness while there's a black bar near the screen's edge can help you set it as high as possible before blacks start to get noticeably brighter (important to set while your room is as lit as it'll be during viewing).
There should be at least 4 Gamma presets you can try to test how bright they can go before colors look pastel and shadows look too grey.
Pausing on something like a bright sky will let you adjust Contrast as high as possible before the lightest greys start to turn white.

Warm white-balance should be the most accurate, but others might look a little brighter without compromising colors and skin too much for you..otherwise Warm is what you'll want.

This should give you the brightest image with the highest contrast possible. There's a chance a different movie will need Contrast set a tiny bit lower to avoid pushing light-grey into white, but I wouldn't worry about that until it comes.
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post #90 of 117 Old 04-26-2015, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DBob View Post
Ftoast, I'm getting an Optoma 161x to replace my 131x, was concerned about brightness for 3D, but you swayed me that it's going to be on par. I don't have brilliant color more than 3 on the 131 and it's bright enough in bright mode for 3D. I like the 131x, but I miss the motion control and other features that I had with the HD33. Do you use native brightness on the 161x for 3D--or what is your recommendation to make the 161x as bright as possible without destroying the contrast/color?
I hope the 161x is different to the UK HD50, I also had a 131xe and 3D was great brightness, I tried the HD50 and it was awful dull, maybe 2 foot lambert so calibrated maximum in 3D, it seems f/w is crippling the 3D light output of the HD50 / 161x.
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