Is my Sony HW40 defective? Calibration issue. - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 11 Old 10-08-2014, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Is my Sony HW40 defective? Calibration issue.

Hello, hope this is correct forum part for this question.

I´ve really been struggling to get my first projector calibrated/mounted properly. Please see below picture. As you can see (?) everything is perfectly aligned except bottom left corner, off by quite a lot. This results in a off set picture. If there was something wrong with how I calibrated I assumed there would be other visible errors in other corners. Projector is evenly mounted (measured by bubble level). I thought maybe it was screen not sitting correctly on wall, but that checked out as well, unless wall is totally uneven. Horiz lens shift in middle and vertical adjusted for ceiling mount. Anything else to try? If I try to adjust that error, naturally another corner gets messed up. Thanks!


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post #2 of 11 Old 10-08-2014, 11:38 AM
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Is it square with the wall?
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post #3 of 11 Old 10-08-2014, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post
Is it square with the wall?
The screen? I think so, but hard to check. It was a beep to get up on the wall, but might have to try and take it off and remount...

thanks.
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post #4 of 11 Old 10-08-2014, 12:36 PM
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No the projector, can you tilt it a bit away from on horizontal plane only
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-08-2014, 12:44 PM
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The projector is NOT square to the screen!

You must tilt the front of the projector up this will make the top wider, and the bottom narrower.

Use lens shift to bring the image back down some.

You also must spin the projector to the right.

This will make the right side larger, and the left side smaller.

Use lens shift to bring the image back to the left some.

Lens shift is amazing in how it really lets you tweak the setup and get it perfect, but you can't use a level, or eyeball things. You have to repeatedly tweak, and re-tweak the projector/lens positions to get the image perfectly squared to the screen.

When both the top and bottom are the exact same size, and when the left/right are the exact same size, then the projector is square to the wall. You may need to still level the height (top line) to get things perfect as well.

But, right now, it is not square to the screen.
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post #6 of 11 Old 10-08-2014, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks to the both of you for your suggestions. I thought that my projector was square to the screen since I found middle of horiz lens shift, got it almost perfect in screen and used lens shift to adjust last part. These tips helped me look at the problem from another perspective. Before I tried to adjust by tilting the projector in different directions without turning it. When I started t move it around again I found a setting that is not perfect, but good enough right now. Will adjust more this weekend. Hardest part is tilting projector up and down and understanding that a level projector (bubble level) dont mean much as it depends on screen placement. Will have to work more with that. Thanks!
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post #7 of 11 Old 10-08-2014, 03:37 PM
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This is when having a quality projector mount becomes incredibly important.

With a really good projector mount, a typical near perfect alignment takes me about 30 minutes.

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post #8 of 11 Old 10-09-2014, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I have a Chief KITPD003 kit. Find it rather hard to get it right on my own with this heavy projector. Any other tips on how to know if pj is square to the screen?
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-09-2014, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grapper View Post
Yeah, I have a Chief KITPD003 kit. Find it rather hard to get it right on my own with this heavy projector. Any other tips on how to know if pj is square to the screen?
Nothing really. I don't have a good link on how to properly setup a projector with lens shift so it is fully squared to a screen, but at the end of the day it is call 'square' because it's supposed to look square. If your projector looks at all like what you have it right now, it's not square.

Here's the way I do it...

I shrink the image so it's just a couple of inches smaller than the screen frame - maybe half an inch smaller.

I align the top of the image with the top of the screen image. Make sure it is level (no tools, use your eyes).

Now I look at the left/right side of the image. If the image is smaller on one side or the other, I rotate the projector towards the smaller side.

I then use lens shift to position the image back on screen. I realign the top edge of the image with the screen, and recheck the left side/right side sizing. I repeat this process as many times as necessary until the left and right side of the image is the same size.

During all of this, the top and the bottom may NOT be the same size. I am strictly checking the left side/right side for sizing.

Once the sides appear to be the same size, I check the top/bottom.

Once again, I align the top edge of the image so it's against the top edge of the screen.

Then I compare it to the bottom edge. If the bottom or top edges are smaller than each other, I tilt the projector up/down towards the smaller edge.

Then I use lens shift to align the top edge of the image to the top of the screen.

Repeat this process until the top/bottom are the exact same size.

Now, zoom out a bit until the image fills the screen. It should be 100% square. (It likely will not be)

If it is not, start at the beginning and work your way through the process.

Each of these steps takes a few minutes to go through. You get on a ladder, you get off a ladder, you double check, you triple check. Once it is perfect, you check again, and you find out it isn't. So, you start from the beginning.

Each round through the full process tends to get you closer and closer and closer. Rarely is it perfect, and rarely are screens 100% square. Typically a top edge or bottom edge isn't 100% straight across. But, it gets extremely close. Far closer than you have it now.

Give it the time it deserves. I've been doing this for years, and still find that a good adjustment, with a good mount, is about a 30 minute process. So if you spend an hour or so working through the process, don't think of it as a big deal.
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-13-2014, 06:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Super. Many thanks for a great description on how you do it. My girl is away this weekend, so plenty of time to drive myself nuts. I don't mind spending the time as long as I get a good result. It's just that I have not found the methodology to work through the process as you described above. Time to have another look soon. Thanks again!
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post #11 of 11 Old 10-13-2014, 10:35 AM
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Awesome, also, while she's gone, get a coat of nice dark paint and put it on the walls and ceiling. That remains the single biggest improvement which can be made to any setup... Especially this one!


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