Official Sony VPL-HW40ES Owners/Settings Thread - Page 49 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1441 of 1561 Old 04-03-2017, 07:43 PM
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[quote=VARestless;51757809]
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Originally Posted by lizrussspike View Post
I had a decent mount, but ended up calling Mike Garrett. He hooked me up with a great solution, which included a Chief mount a Sony plate. It took me longer to take down/remove the old spider arm type mount than to mount this new set up from Mike. It is solid, and literally slides right on and in. Used only a tool or 2. Too easy.

LizRussSpike - great thought/help. While there are many knowledgeable folks here, there are also pros as well. Appreciate the reference. Have seen Mike referred to, but would have had a touch time finding it.

Tx!
The correct Chief Elite mounts are RPA020 or RPMA020, which come with custom interface plates for our projectors (vs. universal "spider" arms). The interface plates are SLB 020 and SLM 020, respectively. The plates are not physically the same. The SLM is for the locking mounts (RPMA), and the SLB uses thumbscrews. The RPMA has micro adjustments, a lock, and overall purported to work a bit better than the RPA which has manual adjustments with a wrench.

For the interface plates, the Chief website show differences, but notes the pictures may not be representative. Upon additional examination http://downloads.chiefmfg.com/MANUALS-I/SLBSLM020-I.pdf, the installation diagrams show (?) similarity except for the screws. The SLM has "security screws", vs. SLB shows thumb screws.


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Last edited by VARestless; 04-03-2017 at 07:54 PM. Reason: Added info on SLM vs SLB configuration
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post #1442 of 1561 Old 04-04-2017, 03:54 AM
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Right VARestless ,
That is pretty much what I got from Mike Garrett. An awesome mount with I believe the RPMA with adjustments with a lock on it as well. So easy to install and secure to the joist.
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post #1443 of 1561 Old 04-29-2017, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
Hey no problem, glad to help. hitting Menu on the remote brings up the menu and hitting Menu on the remote also makes it go away if it's already up.
This problem has resurfaced and simply hitting "MENU" or even turning the unit off doesn't make it go away. I do have the STATUS in the SETUP menu set to OFF so I have no idea what's causing this. I actually had to unplug the power cable to get it to turn off last night. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jack
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post #1444 of 1561 Old 04-30-2017, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by scooterdog View Post
Just received my Sony 45 and right out of the box projecting on a white wall was pretty impressive. Just getting ready to start stage construction and then screen and can't wait to see how it will look once I get it set up properly. Right now it's about 135" in a light controlled basement. Even with some general low lighting the picture really bright and colorful, very nice and happy I went with it.
Yeah that's what I'm about to settle on, though the thought of 140 has recently crossed my mind.
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post #1445 of 1561 Old 05-01-2017, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwhart View Post
This problem has resurfaced and simply hitting "MENU" or even turning the unit off doesn't make it go away. I do have the STATUS in the SETUP menu set to OFF so I have no idea what's causing this. I actually had to unplug the power cable to get it to turn off last night. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jack
Hi Jack , so with Status set to off the menu never goes away and hitting menu on the remote doesn't make it go away either?

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post #1446 of 1561 Old 05-01-2017, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
Hi Jack , so with Status set to off the menu never goes away and hitting menu on the remote doesn't make it go away either?
That's correct. Fortunately, it hasn't returned since I unplugged the AC cable.
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post #1447 of 1561 Old 05-01-2017, 08:41 PM
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It is just a glitch. Good to know your problem does not come back again.
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post #1448 of 1561 Old 05-02-2017, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by kwok lau View Post
It is just a glitch. Good to know your problem does not come back again.
Unfortunately, it did. I'm on hold for Sony ES support at 877-619-7669 as I reply.
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post #1449 of 1561 Old 05-07-2017, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jwhart View Post
Unfortunately, it did. I'm on hold for Sony ES support at 877-619-7669 as I reply.
Sorry to know the problem came back to your projector again. Wish the SONY representative will resolve it already by this writing.
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post #1450 of 1561 Old 05-08-2017, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by kwok lau View Post
Sorry to know the problem came back to your projector again. Wish the SONY representative will resolve it already by this writing.
I must apologize to everyone on this thread; I discovered that the setup screen I was getting was actually coming from my Marantz AV receiver and NOT the projector. I did speak with Sony support who pointed me in the right direction.

Again, my apologies!
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post #1451 of 1561 Old 05-08-2017, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jwhart View Post
I must apologize to everyone on this thread; I discovered that the setup screen I was getting was actually coming from my Marantz AV receiver and NOT the projector. I did speak with Sony support who pointed me in the right direction.

Again, my apologies!
Hey no problem, we all make mistakes. I'm just glad you got it sorted out.
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post #1452 of 1561 Old 05-08-2017, 02:40 PM
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Hey no problem, we all make mistakes. I'm just glad you got it sorted out.
Thanks for both your help and understanding!
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post #1453 of 1561 Old 05-08-2017, 05:37 PM
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[QUOTE=jwhart;52834113]I must apologize to everyone on this thread; I discovered that the setup screen I was getting was actually coming from my Marantz AV receiver and NOT the projector. I did speak with Sony support who pointed me in the right direction.

Again, my apologies![/QUOTEA

Agree that we make mistake from time to time. No need to apologize to us. As long as your problem is resolved. This is the good news. Enjoy your SONY 45 la. Best regards.
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post #1454 of 1561 Old 06-01-2017, 05:33 AM
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Weird issue with VPL-HW40ES 3D: image split in two halves, one darker

Hi everybody,

I write to see if I can get any support within an "experts" forum, as I really don't know what to do with my projector.
I have been a happy owner of a Sony VPL-HW40ES 3D projector since March 2015, but in the last few days I have been experiencing a very peculiar issue: screen seems to be perfectly split in two halves, with one of the two being darker than the other.

This is not fully evident in all images and all motion scenes, however the difference between the two halves becomes unmistakable to notice whenever a full "monocolored" block is being projected (e.g. a bright red). The line splitting the two halves seems to be perfectly vertical, appearing in the middle of the projection area.

I have been surfing a bit the web to understand if the issue is common or could be related to the lamp, however:
- My lamp should still be relatively effective (current lifetime: ~1000 hrs)
- Problem does not seem to be linked to lamp efficiency, or to "common" signs of a lamp getting near to "end-life"

Can anybody provide some direct experience or support?

THANKS!!!!
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post #1455 of 1561 Old 06-06-2017, 12:06 PM
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Hi people.

Does anyone know of any active 3D glasses that are compatible with the built-in IR transmitter in my VPL 40ES? The model listed by Sony in the manual is waaay too expensive, so I hope anyone here knows of better/cheaper options? Perhaps from Amazon.co.uk?

Thanx
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post #1456 of 1561 Old 06-06-2017, 03:12 PM
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Flickering Bulb

Apologies if this has been answered before but looking for a quick honest reply.
Only 1500 hours, bulb flickering on low lamp mode only, tried running on high mode for few hours but keeps coming back.

Fixable or replacement needed?

If new then bulb only or complete?
Sony genuine or generic or any particular brand recommend?

Cheers

Last edited by pacemaker; 06-06-2017 at 03:16 PM.
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post #1457 of 1561 Old 06-06-2017, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvaDK View Post
Hi people.

Does anyone know of any active 3D glasses that are compatible with the built-in IR transmitter in my VPL 40ES? The model listed by Sony in the manual is waaay too expensive, so I hope anyone here knows of better/cheaper options? Perhaps from Amazon.co.uk?

Thanx
I have tested several kinds of glasses and I think the official Sony PlayStation 3 glasses are the way to go. They have the best image quality (no ghosting) and are pretty cheap. They are not very comfortable unfortunately but I can make it through a movie.

I put more impressions of other glasses earlier in this thread.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...l#post28649761
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post #1458 of 1561 Old 06-08-2017, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by horseflesh View Post
I have tested several kinds of glasses and I think the official Sony PlayStation 3 glasses are the way to go. They have the best image quality (no ghosting) and are pretty cheap. They are not very comfortable unfortunately but I can make it through a movie.

I put more impressions of other glasses earlier in this thread.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...l#post28649761
Thanx for the advice.

Unfortunately, I can't seem to find any retailers here selling PS3 3D glasses anymore. Amazon.co.uk/de doesn't seem to have them either, so I guess we'll just have to settle for 2D, which is fine. It would just be fun to have the option for those few 3D discs we have, that came bundled with the 2D releases of certain titles.
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post #1459 of 1561 Old 07-25-2017, 08:57 AM
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Curious, is the IR IN on the 40ES for 3d glasses receiver or is it for IR control via cable?

I am in the process of relocating all my AV equipment, including Harmony Hub into a remote closet and am trying to figure out a way to control the projector which will be the only "device" left in the main theater room. Was hoping to be able to run a IR blaster cable from the Harmony Hub to the projector but not sure if its possible.
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post #1460 of 1561 Old 07-25-2017, 09:32 AM
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Does anyone know how you can identify the Sony bulb over a competing product?

I bought my projector from a non-authorized dealer (the price was just too good not to take the chance) and most everything has been exceptional with it. Plus it'll be out of warranty before too much longer anyway (less than a year I believe).

The one surprise has been the bulb. It flickers horribly on both low and high and has about 1200 hours on it with about half that time on low. It got me wondering if, perhaps, the deal may have swapped out the real bulb for a crap one to make more money per unit. Seems a bit of a reach, but still possible. I see posts from people getting 6,000 hours out of their lamps before this happens.

I'd also like to verify this in case I have the Philips lamp. If so, then I know what to expect from a color perspective and reliability for the 1/3 price. It's clear we're going to need to replace this one pretty soon so it' decision time.....
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post #1461 of 1561 Old 07-25-2017, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Agrajag View Post
Does anyone know how you can identify the Sony bulb over a competing product?

I bought my projector from a non-authorized dealer (the price was just too good not to take the chance) and most everything has been exceptional with it. Plus it'll be out of warranty before too much longer anyway (less than a year I believe).

The one surprise has been the bulb. It flickers horribly on both low and high and has about 1200 hours on it with about half that time on low. It got me wondering if, perhaps, the deal may have swapped out the real bulb for a crap one to make more money per unit. Seems a bit of a reach, but still possible. I see posts from people getting 6,000 hours out of their lamps before this happens.

I'd also like to verify this in case I have the Philips lamp. If so, then I know what to expect from a color perspective and reliability for the 1/3 price. It's clear we're going to need to replace this one pretty soon so it' decision time.....
I'm on my second lamp so I still have the original sitting on a shelf as a backup. When I get home I can grab it post a description of it and it's markings.

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post #1462 of 1561 Old 07-25-2017, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RafaelSmith View Post
Curious, is the IR IN on the 40ES for 3d glasses receiver or is it for IR control via cable?

I am in the process of relocating all my AV equipment, including Harmony Hub into a remote closet and am trying to figure out a way to control the projector which will be the only "device" left in the main theater room. Was hoping to be able to run a IR blaster cable from the Harmony Hub to the projector but not sure if its possible.
The installers who did my setup used an additional IR blaster that rests on top of the projector. I'm not certain how they wired it but it works. All my equipment also resides in a closet area beside my AT screen. I love the clean look of the setup. The screen wall is just screen. No speakers or AV equipment visible.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
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post #1463 of 1561 Old 07-26-2017, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kevyh View Post
The installers who did my setup used an additional IR blaster that rests on top of the projector. I'm not certain how they wired it but it works. All my equipment also resides in a closet area beside my AT screen. I love the clean look of the setup. The screen wall is just screen. No speakers or AV equipment visible.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Hmm, i need to look again but I thought the IR eye for the projector is on the front....not sure how signal from emitter ontop would work. Maybe enough bouncing/reflection off ceiling and walls?

I think i might just get some 2.5mm extension cables and route the Logitech Mini IR blaster to the front of the theater and put it on top of the screen frame aimed back into the room.
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post #1464 of 1561 Old 07-26-2017, 05:31 PM
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My Harmony One apparently bounces off the screen since I sit behind the PJ.

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post #1465 of 1561 Old 07-27-2017, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RafaelSmith View Post
Hmm, i need to look again but I thought the IR eye for the projector is on the front....not sure how signal from emitter ontop would work. Maybe enough bouncing/reflection off ceiling and walls?

I think i might just get some 2.5mm extension cables and route the Logitech Mini IR blaster to the front of the theater and put it on top of the screen frame aimed back into the room.
The IR is on top of the projector but at the very edge of the front and even slopes a bit downward.

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post #1466 of 1561 Old 12-03-2017, 01:11 PM
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Hi Guys

Need help.. which one should I purchase this or this I see the one from first one says it has 1 year warranty so seems like it will be a good pay off to spend additional dollars over there.. but again I believe if the flickering is the only problem we are going to check aren't we able to get it to find by 60 days of purchase ? I use my projector a lot and mostly only at night.. but I would say I probably get like 4-5 hours daily usage out of the projector, so just trying to see if those extra dollars is good to save or just get it from higher price as it has 1 yr warranty.. more wise or smart thing to do seems like to go with it..

Thanks

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post #1467 of 1561 Old 12-04-2017, 08:33 AM
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Hi Guys

Need help.. which one should I purchase this or this I see the one from first one says it has 1 year warranty so seems like it will be a good pay off to spend additional dollars over there.. but again I believe if the flickering is the only problem we are going to check aren't we able to get it to find by 60 days of purchase ? I use my projector a lot and mostly only at night.. but I would say I probably get like 4-5 hours daily usage out of the projector, so just trying to see if those extra dollars is good to save or just get it from higher price as it has 1 yr warranty.. more wise or smart thing to do seems like to go with it..

Thanks
Well the one from projector lamp experts is a 100% OEM lamp and the one from amazon isn't. Projector lamp experts also sells what they call their platinum lamps that are the same OEM bulb in the same OEM housing but they assemble it and from post in this thread they stood behind the 1 year warranty on the platinum lamp . I've used both the 100% OEM and the platinum lamps from them and both were great.

I'd stay as far away from the Amazon lamp as possible.

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post #1468 of 1561 Old 12-04-2017, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
Well the one from projector lamp experts is a 100% OEM lamp and the one from amazon isn't. Projector lamp experts also sells what they call their platinum lamps that are the same OEM bulb in the same OEM housing but they assemble it and from post in this thread they stood behind the 1 year warranty on the platinum lamp . I've used both the 100% OEM and the platinum lamps from them and both were great.

I'd stay as far away from the Amazon lamp as possible.
Thank You very much for your detailed response... appreciate it... now for the question do I really need it.. my current lamp flickers when on low lamp setting I change it to high and it goes away and when flickering comes in high lamp mode I switch it to low mode and it goes away .. and I don't do this too often when I am watching anything on a daily basis .. but I think I have to do it everyday once .. and don't have to bother about it until I close out my watching session which would usually 3-4 hours or more sometimes.. but I think the main advantage will be how bright the new picture will look with the lamp change.. and I don't remember as of now how it looked when I bought it lol.. I have seen some ember said he changed it when the flicker was bad and it was not going away with switch in lamp mode or whatever it is I do.. I think you understand what I mean.. but I think I will just go with my purchase ...

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post #1469 of 1561 Old 01-24-2018, 07:21 AM
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Hi guys, thanks for all the info in this thread, usefull as i am intend to buy a 40ES second hand, around 400 hours on the lamp, unit is bought buy first owner in 2014.
Do you guys see any panel degradation effects on this unit?
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post #1470 of 1561 Old 01-24-2018, 11:20 AM
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At 800 hours my IQ is the same, though my bulb is now flickering. A used one is probably pretty safe. Other than possible early bulb failure these units don't seem to have any issues.

Edit to add: well there is the universal bottom-of-the-screen bowing but it's not bad. I meant projector-killing issues, like dying auto-iris systems in some Epsons.
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