New LG PF1500 LED Projector - Page 117 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3481 of 3502 Old 11-30-2019, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bgeery View Post
Oh yeah, duh, it's a self-contained single board computer (same size as a RaspberryPi SBC), it does need a $5 case I forgot to list. How are you feeding your receiver or projector content right now?

I could have used a PC, but the power savings and simplicity made me choose a SBC instead. Now the whole home theater (PF1500 medium brightness/5.1.2 receiver 40% volume/Odroid C2) runs on 105 watts for normal TV/movies, peaking ~150 watts during heavy subwoofer use. It would probably be double that power usage if I was using a PC, and would still be more complicated to get things working right with 24/50 FPS content.
I used nothing but laptops for the past 10 years so my knowledge of today's non-laptops, especially sbc's, is extremely limited. There was a day back in the 90's that I had an HTPC running PowerDVD. Unless this setup improves picture quality over my existing Directv, Roku, and 4K BR, running through an AVR to one of my three projectors, I would have no use for it. Seems like a good inexpensive way to get started though. Power, or the cost thereof, is not an issue with my situation.

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post #3482 of 3502 Old 11-30-2019, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rtchinn View Post
My repair experience on these so far has been consistent... the switching power regulator for the high power LEDs fails. There is an inductor that fails due to poor component selection by LG. It eventually overheats enough times that it begins to saturate, which makes it overheat more, which causes it to saturate more... and eventually it gets hot enough that it melts the solder and falls off of the circuit board!! (this means the part had to reach no less than about 220°C). The old inductors, when removed from the projector, look like they have been almost red-hot... the normal matte black color ceramic has changed to a "blued" tint.



I have had to re-engineer this part of the circuit based on the original design information published by Texas Instruments (who makes the chipset and DLP). By selecting components with much higher ratings for the repair, there is no possible future failure in this same way again. It is a somewhat complex repair, and requires proper experience to select the new parts, and perform the repair. The new inductor does not fit on the circuit board like when it was new (there is no room for the required larger parts in the same place), so I had to find a way to make it fit while getting better cooling, and yet make it sturdy and safe.



I have given some details in this forum before, but again, I would not recommend anyone performing this repair without a high level of knowledge and experience in repairing this type of circuitry. Sorry to say it usually means it's time for a replacement. I have purchased some of these in this "dead" condition before, and repair them for resale. I actually have two right now that have been repaired and time-tested.

(This is a side-hobby, though I've been repairing video electronics since the early 1970's (as a child), and have been a career EE since 1980.) If you were in the US, I would offer to repair it, but international shipping makes it cost prohibitive.
Thank you very much sir for all of this kind information. This operation might be out of my league also my experience. Today I talked with LG servlce and they takes from me. I hope they'll figured out the problem with reasonable costs. If not i can't thinking to permit to repair, it's not worth it i guess.

It's very annoying to happens just 1000 hours with couple years. Maybe it's time to change my projector but i don't know which device should i buy. PF1500 is absolutely fit my needs and my lifestyle. And unfortunetly i living in a europe not in a Us, but thanks for your kindness offer.
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post #3483 of 3502 Old 11-30-2019, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by obscuro View Post
It has been almost a half century since I started the big screen craze. I’ve learned quite a bit and those experiences lead me to my current pf1500 duet which one prolific forum commenter wrote that nobody wants this.

It is clear that no one does but from my scientific perspective my projection setup offers more large image display solutions at a much more cost effect level than anything that I have read in this forum or on the internet.

I’m not going to repeat all the things that I have said because they are archived here. But I will say that watching HDR video on my duet in eco mode is a totally mesmerizing experience. I have yet to simply watch one demo clip without watching more and more repeats. On occasion it is like looking through a hole in the wall.

My viewing environment is not optimal. I watch images on a textured wall in a white room that often has enough light (usually from my monitor or laptop) to see clearly in the room. When I reduce that light the image improves even more.

My desktop computers are over a decade old so I have to convert UHD to 1080 in order to watch HDR video decoded with madVR but the slow conversion process has been well worth the wait.

Nothing that I have read leads me to believe that XPR (shifting pixel) DLP will have the black level or contrast to compete (for now). Even the updated PF1500 (2019) version: HF60LA says it is XPR HD.

@JackB : Esegan calibrated settings look quite good on the PF1500 (2015) but the Expert (Dark room) on the PF1500w appear better to my eyes. My unscientific adjustment using the wizard appears better than Esegan’s settings to my eyes.

I could not figure out why until I started watching a movie on just the PF1500 (2015) and I was extremely impressed by Esegan’s settings. I typically watch the PF1500 in a dual computer monitor configuration. Most of the time, I don’t pay attention to color while using the computer but when I switched the movie to full screen I noticed that the movie’s color had shifted noticeably. I attributed that color shift to the projector heating up after hours of use. With the projector wizard I was able to quickly adjust for the color shift but Esegan’s setting work well for a cold start projector.

A couple days before reading the Projector Central review, I decided to switch my PF1500 (2015) from PC mode (low lag for all picture modes) to Video mode (game picture is the only low lag). I knew from my older LG LED projectors that the best images were achieved using LG’s internal media player. That was not an option using dual projectors. I wanted the flexibility of dynamic contrast, dynamic color, and preferred color functions to alter my images in real-time as needed. This viewing construct was validated by Projector Central’s review of the HU70LA. I wanted to pull shadow detail dynamically without having to leave my brightness levels too high. Well, it works and beautifully on HDR video.

As for my 6000 plus hours on the original PF1500, I attribute those hours to almost exclusive use of eco mode. My HW300T did not like the medium power level and two of them dropped significantly in light output just past my two year warranty (10-12k hours).

The second most significant feature of the PF1500 was the ability to pixel align (overlay) an image. With that, I instantly overcame almost all shortcomings of the projector especially the brightness. An extremely important feature of my dual projector setup is the LACK of needing a stacking rig as they sit side-by-side. Besides, I wished that LG offered coated glass lenses on the projector to increase the sharpness as well as contrast.

I will eventually buy another projector - I still love my toys and would love another PF1500w for UHD and short throw however, I cannot justify the price - but I absolutely love the knowledge that I can use my existing PF1500 projectors together to create an even better projection system.
Obscuro,

You may be the only user on this forum who has been at this longer than I have. My first projector was a Sony coffee table with a 50" wall mounted plastic screen that I bought in 1980.

Based on your statements above I have a couple of questions:

1. You mention HDR on the PF1500W. "would love another PF1500w for UHD and short throw". I could not find any mention of HDR on that projector. Can you explain?
2. You mention improved picture quality on the internal apps. I have forgotten how to get into the control system in that mode in order to make sure I have Esegan's latest settings. Do you remember how to get there?
3. Do any of LG's 1080P projectors support UHD input? I could not find any that do.

Jack
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post #3484 of 3502 Old 12-02-2019, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JackB View Post
Obscuro,

You may be the only user on this forum who has been at this longer than I have. My first projector was a Sony coffee table with a 50" wall mounted plastic screen that I bought in 1980.

Based on your statements above I have a couple of questions:

1. You mention HDR on the PF1500W. "would love another PF1500w for UHD and short throw". I could not find any mention of HDR on that projector. Can you explain?
2. You mention improved picture quality on the internal apps. I have forgotten how to get into the control system in that mode in order to make sure I have Esegan's latest settings. Do you remember how to get there?
3. Do any of LG's 1080P projectors support UHD input? I could not find any that do.
This projector does not do uhd, it's a 1080p projector and can't handle 2160/60. If you dumb it down to 1080p, you have lost the hdr. Nor does it have the extended color space. My LG Oled does a fantastic job with hdr, but it is only 55".

My JVC does hdr and it mostly makes things darker, but more detail in the dark.

If you want a HDR LG, the new one looks pretty promising. LG HU70LA 4K UHD Smart Home Theater CineBeam Projector with ThinQ AI and Google Assistant Built-in

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VJKZZTZ...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Last edited by gregoryperkins; 12-02-2019 at 05:40 AM.
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post #3485 of 3502 Old 12-02-2019, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by JackB View Post
Following are the settings by Esegan that I think are the best I've seen. My room is light controlled and my screen is a Da-Lite High Power with a 2.8 gain. I use the medium power setting for my viewing. The White Balance and CMS settings are:

Contrast - 97 (93)
Brightness - 48
Color - 50
Tint - 0

White Balance
Method - 2 Points
Pattern - Outer
Points:

IRE R G B
Low 0 0 0
High -4 to -8/0/-20 to -25

Method - 20 Points
Pattern - Outer

IRE R G B (delta e)
100) 0 0 0 (0,2)
95) -2 -1 0 (0.1)
90) -4 0 3 (0.1)
85) -1 5 5 (0.2)
80) 2 -1 2 (0.3)
75) 0 0 3 (0.2)
70) 0 1 3 (0.3)
65) 1 1 1 (0.3)
60) 1 0 1 (0.4)
55) 1 0 -1 (0.1)
50) 1 4 5 (0.3)
45) -1 0 5 (0.4)
40) 0 0 1 (0.2)
35) -3 1 1 (0.2)
30) -5 1 1 (0.4)
25) -2 0 3 (0.3)
20) -5 1 2 (0.3)
15) -5 2 0 (0.3)
10) -9 0 1 (0.3)
5) -27 6 2 (0.2)

Color Management System
patterns 75% - 75% (CIE94)
RED -11 13 13 (0.3-Delta e)
GREEN -1 8 6 (0.3)
BLUE -6 -5 -30 (1.4)
YELLOW 0 17 29 (1.8)
CYAN 29 -9 30 (0.4)
MAGENTA 6 6 -24 (0.5)

Sorry,I'm confused on how to use these settings..
Is this on Expert 1?
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post #3486 of 3502 Old 12-02-2019, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by freekmccoy View Post
Sorry,I'm confused on how to use these settings..
Is this on Expert 1?
You use Expert 1 or 2. These two setting envelopes allow you to fine tune the picture using the tools available in the system. Go to Page 96-100 of the User Manual where there is a description. The process is:

1. Go to Settings/Picture Mode/Expert1
2. Enter listed values for Contrast/Brightness/H and V Sharpness/Color/Tint
3. Click on Expert Control and enter Dyn Contrast Low/Super Res Low/Color Gam Wide/Edge Enh Off/Color Fil Off/Gamma 2.2/ White Bal Listed in Post 1/CMS Listed in Post 1
4. Close Exp Ctl and got to Picture Options/NR Off/Mpeg NR Off/Black Lev Low/True Motion User then choose your value/Color Temp Medium
5. Close Pic Opt and set parameter Aspect Ratio to Just Scan. In order to set to Just Scan there must be video input going through.

The settings listed above are all personal choices you may want to play with to see what looks best to you. The detailed settings in White Balance and CMS should be as listed in detail in Post 1.

Let us know what you think.

BTW, Just Scan setting is important to set to get pixel to pixel picture. This was pointed out early in this thread and is key. I think the projector is set to 16x9 at the factory.
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post #3487 of 3502 Old 12-02-2019, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JackB View Post
Obscuro,

You may be the only user on this forum who has been at this longer than I have. My first projector was a Sony coffee table with a 50" wall mounted plastic screen that I bought in 1980.

Based on your statements above I have a couple of questions:

1. You mention HDR on the PF1500W. "would love another PF1500w for UHD and short throw". I could not find any mention of HDR on that projector. Can you explain?
2. You mention improved picture quality on the internal apps. I have forgotten how to get into the control system in that mode in order to make sure I have Esegan's latest settings. Do you remember how to get there?
3. Do any of LG's 1080P projectors support UHD input? I could not find any that do.
Obscuro,

I found out how to get to the CMS while using an internal app if you care to:

1. Start internal Netflix or other app.
2. Press 1 2 3/Input button twice
3. Go to Set Video

That's it. I think the picture is slightly better and makes sense if you want a quick look using bluetooth headphones.

Jack
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post #3488 of 3502 Old 12-02-2019, 01:10 PM
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UHD and HDR on FHD beamers

@JackB :
“1. You mention HDR on the PF1500W. "would love another PF1500w for UHD and short throw". I could not find any mention of HDR on that projector. Can you explain? “

“3. Do any of LG's 1080P projectors support UHD input? I could not find any that do.”


AFAIK, the PF1500w does not internally process UHD or HDR.

I bought three new PF1500w projectors for the cost of one Epson HC3800. If I could justify the purchase (LG’s one year warranty and price are the main deterrents) of a fourth PF1500w projector I would create a tile matrix (video wall) of two by two projectors using a MST (multi stream transport) or AMD Eyefinity video card.

To play UHD HDR on this theoretical system would require:
1. An UDH / HDR source
2. A device to process the signal from that source
3. A display device to see the UHD/HDR image.

It appears to me that HDR is the hook to get people to upgrade from FHD 1080. When I posted my 3000 hrs and 200 inch thread, I did so because I was pretty stunned to find I had a richly saturated picture and that I could not see the pixels until I was about a meter from the wall with reading glasses. Not only that but as I read reviews about HDR images it seemed that the lamp based projector’s high lumen measurements on were drastically lowered in order to meet the saturation that HDR demands. I concluded that I was not in a hurry to upgrade to UHD especially since 8K is knocking at the door.

So I focused on a simple two projector solution with the ability to play bright and highly saturated images.

1. I downloaded UHD/HDR demo images from a google search on the internet which I converted to 1080p HDR10 using Handbrake 1.22 (x64 bit).
2. I downloaded madVR (there’s an entire forum threat on this forum) and later I chose K-lite Mega codec package which includes madVR to simplify the playback process.
3. I set the player to render madVR images, sat back and was blown away as I watched those demo images.
4. The computer and demos provided the images necessary to enjoy HDR on all of my PF1500 projectors.
5. If you want to get a feel for what I see then you could follow the steps above but note that it may be difficult to download demos and the process to convert a couple minutes UHD /HDR took me all day (as in 24 hours using a faster re-encode option) to 1080 HDR10.
6. To get a rough sense of the brightness of my PF1500 and PF1500w layered output on 130 inches display you would have to shrink the original PF1500 to 60 inches in low power and play the 1080 HDR10 demo.


“2. You mention improved picture quality on the internal apps. I have forgotten how to get into the control system in that mode in order to make sure I have Esegan's latest settings. Do you remember how to get there?”

When you use the Picture Wizard III it stores its results in “Expert 1” picture mode. I keep Esegan's settings in “Expert 2”. Note that when you use “Picture Wizard III” it puts the projector in “Minimum” power savings mode. After I use it, I immediately switch to “Maximum” power savings mode.

The “internal apps” to which I was referring was the internal media player. If you have a video file you can play it through your computer but you can also use the internal video player. The internal player seems to work miracles on some difficult files. Some trailers that appear as a muddy mess have been transformed using the internal media player.

If you find the time to experiment with computer based HDR video playback on any your video projectors I think you will find the results well worth it. I speculate that the extra color saturation of the PF1500 playing HDR demos will pull details from the shadows that you did not expect.
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post #3489 of 3502 Old 12-02-2019, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by obscuro View Post
@JackB :
“1. You mention HDR on the PF1500W. "would love another PF1500w for UHD and short throw". I could not find any mention of HDR on that projector. Can you explain? “

“3. Do any of LG's 1080P projectors support UHD input? I could not find any that do.”


AFAIK, the PF1500w does not internally process UHD or HDR.

I bought three new PF1500w projectors for the cost of one Epson HC3800. If I could justify the purchase (LG’s one year warranty and price are the main deterrents) of a fourth PF1500w projector I would create a tile matrix (video wall) of two by two projectors using a MST (multi stream transport) or AMD Eyefinity video card.

To play UHD HDR on this theoretical system would require:
1. An UDH / HDR source
2. A device to process the signal from that source
3. A display device to see the UHD/HDR image.

It appears to me that HDR is the hook to get people to upgrade from FHD 1080. When I posted my 3000 hrs and 200 inch thread, I did so because I was pretty stunned to find I had a richly saturated picture and that I could not see the pixels until I was about a meter from the wall with reading glasses. Not only that but as I read reviews about HDR images it seemed that the lamp based projector’s high lumen measurements on were drastically lowered in order to meet the saturation that HDR demands. I concluded that I was not in a hurry to upgrade to UHD especially since 8K is knocking at the door.

So I focused on a simple two projector solution with the ability to play bright and highly saturated images.

1. I downloaded UHD/HDR demo images from a google search on the internet which I converted to 1080p HDR10 using Handbrake 1.22 (x64 bit).
2. I downloaded madVR (there’s an entire forum threat on this forum) and later I chose K-lite Mega codec package which includes madVR to simplify the playback process.
3. I set the player to render madVR images, sat back and was blown away as I watched those demo images.
4. The computer and demos provided the images necessary to enjoy HDR on all of my PF1500 projectors.
5. If you want to get a feel for what I see then you could follow the steps above but note that it may be difficult to download demos and the process to convert a couple minutes UHD /HDR took me all day (as in 24 hours using a faster re-encode option) to 1080 HDR10.
6. To get a rough sense of the brightness of my PF1500 and PF1500w layered output on 130 inches display you would have to shrink the original PF1500 to 60 inches in low power and play the 1080 HDR10 demo.


“2. You mention improved picture quality on the internal apps. I have forgotten how to get into the control system in that mode in order to make sure I have Esegan's latest settings. Do you remember how to get there?”

When you use the Picture Wizard III it stores its results in “Expert 1” picture mode. I keep Esegan's settings in “Expert 2”. Note that when you use “Picture Wizard III” it puts the projector in “Minimum” power savings mode. After I use it, I immediately switch to “Maximum” power savings mode.

The “internal apps” to which I was referring was the internal media player. If you have a video file you can play it through your computer but you can also use the internal video player. The internal player seems to work miracles on some difficult files. Some trailers that appear as a muddy mess have been transformed using the internal media player.

If you find the time to experiment with computer based HDR video playback on any your video projectors I think you will find the results well worth it. I speculate that the extra color saturation of the PF1500 playing HDR demos will pull details from the shadows that you did not expect.
Interesting stuff. If I built a HTPC for MadVR and used the K-Lite Mega does that have the ability to read a 4K HDR stream from Netflix or Prime and down rez it to 1080P with the expanded color space for the 1500?

Jack
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post #3490 of 3502 Old 12-03-2019, 08:10 AM
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Interesting stuff. If I built a HTPC for MadVR and used the K-Lite Mega does that have the ability to read a 4K HDR stream from Netflix or Prime and down rez it to 1080P with the expanded color space for the 1500?
No, this projector is not 4k nor does it understand hdr or expanded color.

Please stop the nonsense about HDR. If you want HDR, get the projector that I posted above, or just enjoy the 1500 for what it is, a decent sdr 1080p projector.
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post #3491 of 3502 Old 12-03-2019, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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No, this projector is not 4k nor does it understand hdr or expanded color.

Please stop the nonsense about HDR. If you want HDR, get the projector that I posted above, or just enjoy the 1500 for what it is, a decent sdr 1080p projector.
You obviously haven't had the experience of viewing a 4K source down-rezed to 1080P. The picture is much better along with the expanded color source from the hdr. Until you have please keep your disrespectful comments to yourself.

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post #3492 of 3502 Old 12-03-2019, 09:19 AM
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You obviously haven't had the experience of viewing a 4K source down-rezed to 1080P. The picture is much better along with the expanded color source from the hdr. Until you have please keep your disrespectful comments to yourself.
No, I have not. I have a great 4k projector and don't need to.

It is not disrespect, it is fact. This projector can't do HDR, the steps aren't there. Explain that please. It's 8 bit not 10 bit. HDR and expanded color are two different things. This projector has neither.

You can fool yourself into thinking you have hdr, but please don't tell others that they can have a hdr projector if only they try hard enough. Maybe you can improve the picture with a better scaler, but that's not hdr.
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post #3493 of 3502 Old 12-03-2019, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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No, I have not. I have a great 4k projector and don't need to.

It is not disrespect, it is fact. This projector can't do HDR, the steps aren't there. Explain that please. It's 8 bit not 10 bit. HDR and expanded color are two different things. This projector has neither.

You can fool yourself into thinking you have hdr, but please don't tell others that they can have a hdr projector if only they try hard enough. Maybe you can improve the picture with a better scaler, but that's not hdr.
I've seen it with my own eyes. It is improved. I frequently watch Directv Ch. 104, a 4K channel, and DTV automatically down-rezes the stream to HD. You can see the improved picture because the source is 4K and the HLG shows up with a more colorful look. So it is worth it to my old tired eyes.

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post #3494 of 3502 Old 12-03-2019, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by JackB View Post
I've seen it with my own eyes. It is improved. I frequently watch Directv Ch. 104, a 4K channel, and DTV automatically down-rezes the stream to HD. You can see the improved picture because the source is 4K and the HLG shows up with a more colorful look. So it is worth it to my old tired eyes.
I'm not disagreeing with you there. A higher bitrate can get you a very good picture at 1080p. The ota networks send out a very low bitrate signal because they are splitting the bandwidth up for sub channels. You can see it on something like Planet Earth on bd compared to broadcast. Cable is no better. Most of it looks about dvd quality.

4k tvs are pretty inexpensive these days. Try one of them at home and you will see a difference, especially with an OLED set. If you don't think it's worth it, take it back.

The bitrate of the source makes a big difference in streaming. It sounds like Apple is the best at that, but I don't have it. I do have a UHD bd player but rarely use it because the streaming is pretty darn good.
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post #3495 of 3502 Old 12-03-2019, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post
I'm not disagreeing with you there. A higher bitrate can get you a very good picture at 1080p. The ota networks send out a very low bitrate signal because they are splitting the bandwidth up for sub channels. You can see it on something like Planet Earth on bd compared to broadcast. Cable is no better. Most of it looks about dvd quality.

4k tvs are pretty inexpensive these days. Try one of them at home and you will see a difference, especially with an OLED set. If you don't think it's worth it, take it back.

The bitrate of the source makes a big difference in streaming. It sounds like Apple is the best at that, but I don't have it. I do have a UHD bd player but rarely use it because the streaming is pretty darn good.
I have an OLED and a Sony 900F in addition to the JVC X790 in the HT with the 1500. So I am lucky to have four levels of video quality to compare.

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post #3496 of 3502 Old 12-03-2019, 12:29 PM
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Well that's funny, I have a JVC 520 that I got last year. I only use the projectors in the late summer to early spring due to DST and being out of the house a lot.

The 1500 was just sitting there for a year and I started using it during the day because I love the instant on and don't want to buy a $600 bulb for my JVC. I just move the cable back and forth. The JVC is at least 10 times the size of the LG.
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post #3497 of 3502 Old 12-04-2019, 11:57 AM
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@gregoryperkins :This IS a science forum.


I submit that the combined output of the PF1500w + PF1500 offers greater perceived lumens and a wider color range than most HDR projectors. Neither of which is required to implement an HDR signal. Or put another way: Implementation does not equal Maximization. Besides, turning off madVR on a signal with HDR metadata dramatically diminishes the image.

@JackB : The external metadata requires that the device internally process that data and the PF1500 does not.

For now, I intend to study the forum thread on HDR movies, collect the discs, store their disc images, decode the metadata and then send those to my PF1500 duets until I buy a HDR projector. The biggest advantage as you imply, is the convenience of directly streaming HDR image to the display device. I’m still pretty old school, so I don’t mind collecting discs.

As far as image quality, one of the other things that bugged me with the 200 inch experiments was that difference between broadcast, cable, FHD and QHD. The QHD images were the most stunning despite the display being FHD. They stuttered but the effect was quite visible.

The bottom line is that I bought my projectors to paraphrase Matt Damon because I intended to “science the s**t” out of them.
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post #3498 of 3502 Old 12-04-2019, 12:30 PM
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@gregoryperkins :This IS a science forum.
Well, not exactly. It was originally started by a company called "AV Science", located here in Rochester, NY, it's about 1/4 mile from where I'm sitting. That's where I got my JVC and other equipment.

At some point in time, they sold the forum and I believe it now owned by a Canadian company.

AV Science still participates, notably JD Smoothie in the Denon forums.

I highly recommend them.

https://avscience.com/

Anyone truly interested in the science behind av, I recommend the avrant podcast. It has transformed into a q&a show with rants of course. They're on youtube too. Ask away and they will answer.

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post #3499 of 3502 Old 12-05-2019, 09:24 AM
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Is anybody using the "optical out" of their PF-1500w with a Roku device drive a 5.1/7.1 sound system? If so, can you indicate whether or not you are getting proper "Dolby Digital" (or "Dolby Digital Plus") from the Roku Netflix/Prime/Xfinity apps/channels? Also, please indicate whether your AVR is Dolby Digital/5.1 only or 7.1/Dolby Digital+.

The reason I ask is because I only get "stereo" audio, rather than Dolby Digital, when playing Netflix/Prime/Xfiinity from Roku. I have Roku connected directly to the 1500w "HDMI 2" input, and I am feeding my 5.1 AVR with the 1500w Optical audio out. Although my AVR is "5.1 only", the LG owners manual states that it automatically converts "Dolby Digital Plus" received via HDMI to "Dolby Digital (5.1)" on the optical output. So my AVR should receive Dolby Digital regardless of whether Roku is sending 5.1 or 7.1 -- but I still only get stereo. It would be VERY helpful to see what other PF-1500w owners experiences are with Dolby Digital out of the LG optical out.
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post #3500 of 3502 Old 12-09-2019, 02:23 AM
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My PF1500's main board is dead, technical service called me today. My mind is blowing because i don't understand how it's possible at just 1000 hour and 4 years. Maybe it's my chance i don't know. I don't want to repair because it's expensive. It's not worth it, how can i know maybe next year another piece is going to dead. It is not good LG.
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post #3501 of 3502 Old 12-09-2019, 05:53 PM
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Is anybody using the "optical out" of their PF-1500w with a Roku device drive a 5.1/7.1 sound system? If so, can you indicate whether or not you are getting proper "Dolby Digital" (or "Dolby Digital Plus") from the Roku Netflix/Prime/Xfinity apps/channels? Also, please indicate whether your AVR is Dolby Digital/5.1 only or 7.1/Dolby Digital+.

The reason I ask is because I only get "stereo" audio, rather than Dolby Digital, when playing Netflix/Prime/Xfiinity from Roku. I have Roku connected directly to the 1500w "HDMI 2" input, and I am feeding my 5.1 AVR with the 1500w Optical audio out. Although my AVR is "5.1 only", the LG owners manual states that it automatically converts "Dolby Digital Plus" received via HDMI to "Dolby Digital (5.1)" on the optical output. So my AVR should receive Dolby Digital regardless of whether Roku is sending 5.1 or 7.1 -- but I still only get stereo. It would be VERY helpful to see what other PF-1500w owners experiences are with Dolby Digital out of the LG optical out.
Why don't you have the Roku going to the receiver? Optical won't do dd+ afaik.
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post #3502 of 3502 Old 12-10-2019, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by gregoryperkins View Post
Why don't you have the Roku going to the receiver? Optical won't do dd+ afaik.
My AVR is 5.1 only and does not have HDMI input. I'm locked into that AVR because it is the only one available that fits the space (it's hidden in between ceiling joists in the basement). So I want the LG to convert DD+ into DD sent via optical. According to the LG owners manual it does that conversion, but it doesn't seem to be working at least for Netflix/Prime/Xfinity content via Roku Ultra.

PF-1500w owner's manual excerpt:


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