Sanyo PLV-Z3000 Solid Red Power and Warning lights
I know this projector is old, but please don't respond that I should trash it.
I recently got a Sanyo PLV-Z3000 and it worked for about 10 minutes. It has a great picture, but I was cycling through the presets and hit a snag. It was working great when I got it in Natural mode. I cycled down to x.v. Color and that was still working. Then I went one more (back up to Brilliant Cinema I believe) and I heard a whirring noise inside and the projector shut down after about 2-3 seconds. The power and warning lights are solid red - I see from the manual that means an abnormal condition.
The problem now is that it will only work in the menus. Any time I switch to an active video input it makes the whirring sound and shuts down with the error. I tried resetting to factory defaults and I've tried changing the preset quickly before shut down. Nothing makes a difference.
From my research, I believe it's the cinema filter mechanism because it faulted after going into a Cinema preset. I believe the cinema filter is stuck in a position not fully in the path or out of the path. The noise sounds like a geared motor spinning but not engaging any teeth to move the filter.
Has anyone seen this before? It's a long shot, but does anyone have the service manual that they could share?
I'm pretty good with electronics repair, but I prefer to do research first before I jump in. I've taken the top off and I'm at the motherboard. It still seems like there is no way I can check the cinema filter without removing it as well.
I think I've found the red and black wires going to the motor for the cinema filter drive. Second picture, top right. These are from the German Art & Voice review, but I can't post the link because of my post count.
I'm hoping even if the cinema filter gear track is dead, I can either engage it or disengage it and disconnect the motor power.
I ended up finding out where the cinema filter slide mechanism was and used a tool to move the black plastic tabs visible in my attached image above while simultaneously switching to an active input. This engaged the motor and with my help it moved the filter into place.
I couldn't permanently fix it as I tried the living room preset again and even with my help it would not pull the cinema filter all the way out of the path. So I put it back in the path and I'll have to avoid the Dynamic & Living Room presets. I should have disconnected the motor cable but I had already put it back together.
I also finally found the service manual. Are we allowed to post service manuals for long discontinued projectors that are not economical to be repaired professionally? For now PM me if you want it.
Hi Relik, I had exactly the same thing happen to me on HDMI input 2, since then I was still able to use input 1, oddly enough. But today I tried to resurrect input 2 and now nothing will work. I get an image for a few seconds and then the whirring and the projector shuts down. Thank you for explaining what happened, but would it be possible for you to post here in more detail how you opened up the thing and fixed it? I managed to get the top shell off but can't even get past the shielding beneath that (seems to be stuck on some invisible hook or screw) or I'm just too chicken. Unfortunately I can't PM you for the manual, since I only just joined specifically to respond to this post, and I guess you can't PM me either. So I'm really not sure how this forum is supposed to help us newbies... I doubt I'm allowed to post my email address, but this is my real name, so maybe you can find me elsewhere.... Meanwhile I'll try to get a hold of the manual too, to figure out how to open up the projector without breaking anything.
P.S. I believe the reason I cannot get the top shielding off is that two chips on the circuit board just beneath it are glued to the metal. Since I don't even know whether this is the way in (to get to the cinema filter mechanism), I'm stuck, rather. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
(I tried to edit my previous post rather than create another, but don't seem to be able to figure out how. I'm not meaning to rack up points here, I'm just trying to dd new information!)
So in the spirit of discovery, here's how I went about it. For the complete non-techie (like myself): there are 5 short black screws at the back (one is hidden under the filter flap) and three long ones in recesses underneath the projector; they are all marked with arrows and hold the top half of the plastic shell. The metal shielding under that is held via nine small silver screws and one black. I mentioned before that the metal piece seemed to be glued to a couple of IC chips; there is certainly some rubber padding that might be fused, but I managed to get the shield off no problem when the projector was warm. A circuit board covers about 2/3 of the "guts" and ends around the inner edge of the lamp assembly (that we slide out the back when we change the bulb). Just inside of that, tucked under the edge of the circuit board, is the cinema filter mechanism.
The easiest way to find that is by identifying the switch that activates it, which has three black cables coming out of it. And if you sight along those you'll find a small hole in the metal cover where you can see the little finger that you can also see on the drawing. On my machine it's bright blue (you can't see it on the photos). The drawing is looking out from the center of the machine towards the fan side, my photos are taken from the rear and the right (the side with the main fans and the lamp housing).
I was able to fix the issue without removing anything else.
My aim was to set both HDMI inputs to "Living," which means with the filter out, because I need the brightness but I don't like "Dynamic" mode. However, by this point in the proceedings (one factory reset later) both were (re)set to "Natural", so any time there's a live source attached, the machine tries to move the filter in and gets stuck like Relik describes. I took a skinny screwdriver and pushed the top of the filter as far to the rear as possible ("in"). Then I turned on the projector and plugged in a live source. The manipulation was enough to get the filter unstuck and it slid into place. If you're okay with using any of the settings that use the filter "in", leave it alone and close up, you're done! The factory reset makes sure all inputs are set to the same ("Natural") setting, so you shouldn't have any problems with the cinema filter engaging when switching inputs.
However, if like me you want it permanently "out", then you cross your fingers and switch to, say, "Living" mode. With any luck, the filter will slide out. On my machine, it only gets stuck in the other direction.... Which means I had to repeat the procedure on HDMI 2 (switch inputs; witness cine filter trying to slide in again to conform to default "Natural" setting; witness machine turn itself off and show 2 red warning lights; switch it off manually; let it cool down; push filter in; turn it on; change setting for HDMI 2 to "Living").
I also didn't disconnect the power to the cinema filter, because I wasn't sure whether than would cause an error. Instead, I just won't change my cinema setting ever again. With any luck, my Z3000 has a few more months or even a year of faithful service left. Thank you so much, Relik, for getting me started on this rescue mission!
Sorry I disappeared after fixing my projector, but I'm glad to hear you got yours fixed too. There were a few service menu settings that can help you out with the cinema filter issue.
When in the service menu, go to Group 231.
Item #5 is the wait time limit. The default is 30 (3000 ms, 3 seconds) and the projector will turn off if the filter hasn't reached the destination in that time. This is detected by one switch going open and the other switch closing.
What I did on mine was disconnect the cinema filter motor so that it was permanently stuck out of path. I set that timer value to 200 so that I have 20 seconds now. This is plenty of time to set the projector to an image mode that does not require the cinema filter.
I have several user presets that I use instead of the main Image Modes. They are based on x.v. Color mode.
I'm back here because my lamp just failed to start so I decided to see what was new. I ordered a replacement lamp for $27. I installed the last (generic) one 15 months ago at a cost of $32 then. I tried my original dim lamp and it still works fine so I know the projector is still good.
Also, as a note on how unreliable the cinema filter path mechanism is, mine jammed after approximately 300 cycles. The projector keeps a count of the number of times the filter was put in path and taken out. Group 231, items #6 and #7 in service menu. The cinema filter gear path was unusable as it consistently jammed when I tried to use it further.
Aside from the cinema filter reliability, the projector has well over 10,000 hours on it now and it's still going strong.
The PLV-Z3000 is still going strong. It now has over 13,000 hours on it and I just bought 5 lamps on eBay for $38 total including shipping! I assume they will last me the rest of the life of the projector, but who knows.
I've been using it 2 years now for the cost of $75, two $30 lamps, this recent purchase of 5 lamps ($38, so far unused) and electricity. I use it for movies, rarely some TV shows, and parties.
FYI, if you have this model projector and would like to sell or donate it to me so I can attempt to repair it, please contact me. If you have repair questions, post them here.
Hi I have the same issue and have tried to repair the problem but have had no success. I have gone as far as disconnecting the filter motor however don't know how to access the service menu to change the time to 200. Can you please help me. My number is 0423671880 my name is Jesse. I live in Melbourne Victoria Australia you?
First, I am still using this projector in August 2018. I am on the second bulb (89 hours) of the 5 I purchased for $38 total early last year. I now watch 4K HDR content on it, down-sampled and converted to SDR by an old GeForce GTX 680 graphics card using 12-bit color mode. This is accomplished by setting a 12-bit desktop in Nvidia Control Panel, along with Media Player Classic using MadVR renderer. MadVR is set to convert HDR to SDR using Pixel Shader math mode with a display setting of 350 peak nits. (1200 lumens/3.426 per https://www.lifewire.com/understandi...htness-4125499)
I also recently completed Far Cry 5 on it - what a beautiful gaming experience.
On to your topic - Here is some info on using service mode. Ideally you should locate a copy of the service manual.
To enter service mode, follow the instructions in the first picture. Once in service mode, be careful to never press LEFT or RIGHT until you get to the proper group and item number! I can't overstate this enough as you can permanently screw up the projector by changing the wrong values. I put the remote in a drawer and only use the controls on the projector during this procedure.
The second picture shows the cinema filter settings, in particular item #5 .
Group 231: Cinema Filter
Item #5 Limit
The default is 30, which equals 3 seconds before the unit shuts down if the cinema filter has not reached it's final position.
You'll need to change this to 200 so that you have 20 seconds before the shut down. During that period you can hurry up and change the image mode to one that does NOT engage the cinema filter. Or, if you want the cinema filter permanently engaged, unplug the cinema filter motor while it is already fully in the image path.
If I remember correctly there is a sensor on both the full-in and full-out path of the cinema filter. You'll need to put it in the right position and if you are like me, disconnect the power to the cinema filter motor so that it never jams again.
I hope this helps anyone still left using this excellent projector.
Can You please help me out?
I have exactly the same problem with my Sanyo PLV-Z3000 projector. I turn it on, then after few minutes, or even less, whirring noise start, projector shuts down with the shutter door halfway closed and warning light solid red. Can anyone please help, because, although Your instructions are very detailed, I need additional help because I know nothing when it comes to electronics but I don't wanna give up on this projector?
I'll try to help you, but it might not be simple. Do you know what preset the projector is set to? Presets are : Brilliant Cinema / Creative Cinema / Pure Cinema / Natural / Living / Dynamic / x.v. Color
It's important to know where the cinema filter has failed - whether it is IN the light path, OUT of it, or stuck in between (ERROR). Mine failed when trying to move IN, just like the other user on this thread.
You need to try to get the projector set to a mode that matches the cinema filters current position so that it doesn't try to engage it anymore.
Modes that try to engage the cinema filter (IN) : Brilliant cinema, Creative cinema, Pure cinema, x.v. Color, Natural
Modes that keep the cinema filter OUT : Dynamic, Living
First thing you can try after power on is to try switching to another source very quickly after power up. If you were on HDMI 1, try HDMI 2.
If that doesn't work, you can also try changing the preset very quickly to either Living or Dynamic, but the problem is by default you only have 3 seconds if you didn't previously change the Cinema Filter Limit time from 30 (3.0 seconds).
If no presets work, the filter is likely stuck in a position that is not IN nor OUT (i.e. in-between) and this will require you take apart the projector to manually put the filter IN or OUT. Then you should disconnect the motor cable so that it doesn't move again. Disconnecting the motor cable doesn't prevent the shutdown procedure -- it only stops the filter from jamming again (which requires disassembly). If the cinema filter is not jammed, you have 3 seconds to get it to a preset that matches the cinema filters position before auto-shutdown. Once you get the projector in the right preset and no longer have auto shutdowns, I strongly recommend you set the cinema filter limit to 200 (20.0 seconds) so that you have a lot more time to change things before auto-shutdown.
You don't need to be able to understand electronics to do this repair, but you do need to be able to take apart and re-assemble things while keeping track of screws & parts. Here is all the information I have on the projector : https://mega.nz/#F!eNpQEIDS!njpbVrizkaM0Zqq1hTZYYQ
Hey man, thank You for quick response. I really appreciate it. I was afraid I will have to wait for quite some time because I've noticed You are not very active here.
I am in the office at the moment. As soon as I get home I will study Your post carefully and try to follow the instructions. I will let You know how it goes.
Once again, thank You for Your patience with this.
I am at home. I entered the service mode and changed the filter mechanism limit from 3 sec to 20 sec. Then I changed picture mode from "Brilliant cinema" to "Natural". The projector shut down right away, just like before. I switched it on after few minutes and now it works for almost 45 minutes (playing movie from WD live player connected via HDMI1 port) without any whirring noise or interruption whatsoever. Hm...
Update: I just switched from Natural to Dynamic picture mode and it shuts down immediately with a lot of heavy whirring noise. Now when I turn it on, it just shuts down after 2 sec.
If it's turning off quickly then it's probably stuck in between - now it may be really in trouble.
Brilliant cinema to Natural should not have caused a shutdown due to cinema filter because they are both configured for cinema filter engaged. Going from Natural to Dynamic was a mistake.
The cinema filter mechanism is total garbage. It's plastic track with plastic gearing, all in a machine that experiences large temperature changes.
You could be very close to never using the projector again (without considerable work)! If you get it working again, do not change presets, do not change the source input. Read page 84 of the service manual for information on the cinema filter.
My question is this - Considering that I would only use the projector for playing movies, is there any way I can improve picture quality? As You already know, natural mode isn't the best choice when it comes to watching movies. I am aware that I don't have many options, but considering the picture quality in this mode, I don't have much to lose either. Is there a way that I can switch it permanently to some of the other presets like Brilliant Cinema perhaps? I am willing to open the projector and follow Your instruction for jamming the filter in desirable position if You think that might do the trick.
I'm glad that you got it working again at least. I see you don't want to remain in natural mode - I can't blame you. I wish my projector was functioning so I could take you through it.
Theoretically, Brilliant Cinema and Natural both have the cinema filter engaged. Do not switch the image mode using the PRESET button on the remote. If you do this, it will go through Dynamic and Living which will jam the filter.
Instead you should be able to switch by going to the IMAGE menu and going up with the cursor to select Brilliant Cinema and then click OK. See page 27 of the user name for Menu Operation.
If that is successful, you simply need to never use the presets again. To make sure you will never get a jam again, you could disconnect the cinema filter motor after disassembly. That all depends on you.
By the way, it sounds like your cinema filter is mostly jamming when the projector is warm. Like I said, the filter is a poor design. It is mere inches from the extreme heat of the lamp and plastic flexes when heated.
Important : I don't know why your filter jammed last time though when you went from Brilliant Cinema to Natural. That should not have happened unless you were using the PRESET button on the remote. Your projector could have some problem other than what I am familiar with.
Does anyone have experience with adjusting the RGB convergence on the z3000?
I changed the bulb, cleaned the internal cavity where the bulb mounts (thin layer of film).
Now that I have a nice fresh BRIGHT bulb, I am noticing that on white lettering there is Red to the left and green to the right sides of each white letter.
I used to have a 3-gun Toshiba big screen YEARS ago and having to do an RGB convergence calibration was common if you moved (jostled around) the TV, and this looks similar.
Hopefully someone can help me with this.
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