The Offical Epson 2040 Thread - Page 14 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #391 of 1870 Old 12-01-2015, 08:40 AM
 
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Originally Posted by SKoprowski View Post
You need to be more clear about DLP in Cinema. For those like myself that suffer from headaches and rainbows regardless of color wheel speed, LCD is the only choice at this price point. DLP projectors in theaters do not use color wheels and do not suffer the same issues as DLP projectors at home. I agree about DLP giving the best cinematic picture. Unfortunately I can't physically handle DLP color wheel projectors. Was hoping by 2015 we would be seeing 3 chip DLP projectors at a good price point for home users but that never materialized.
I would love to have the option to audition three chip DLP in the home...although at the price they would demand you already have LCoS.
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post #392 of 1870 Old 12-01-2015, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaspercaron View Post
Yes, I tried both projectors side by side and tried all modes and settings available. With the lights out, the brightness of the grey was in my view twice as bright as the Optoma was. I see no visual rainbow effects from the OPTOMA DLP. I guess I should just go with a DLP then because I do want to use it with darker conditions. The only place I saw this EPSON "shine" was with the lights on. I also work for a projector company and was just spoiled with a demo of a 6P laser unit for cinema which had the blackest black possible (total black!) This thing looked like an OLED TV but on a massive scale.

Anyhow, not gonna get one of those There's a reason we use DLP technology in the Cinema. So if you want the cinema experience, LCD is not the choice. It all depends what you're looking for and your ambient conditions. I was swayed by the cheap bulb cost and if you wanna run this EPSON like a television in bright room, I guess it will be a good choice. Can't complain too much for the price right? Still learning a lot here on the forum.
Thanks for the input.

J
I found the HC2040 to be perfect for watching sports, especially Hockey, where it outperformed my BenQ HT1075. The BenQ isn't nearly as sharp or as bright. I auditioned the Epson as a potential TV replacement and I must say it is ideal for that purpose. For watching movies, I stick to my Optoma HD33. BTW my HT1075 has 1800 hrs on the bulb so the comparison wasn't totally fair.
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post #393 of 1870 Old 12-01-2015, 10:25 AM
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J, I can understand you or anyone else preferring DLP over LCD for better black levels in the entry level class. The 2040/2045 appears to be the best of the entry level LCDs, offering a lot for the price. But its black levels are a deal-breaker for many. It's not until you get into the higher-priced LCD projectors that black levels approach or exceed those of single-chip DLPs.
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post #394 of 1870 Old 12-01-2015, 08:01 PM
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Finally pulled the trigger! I am now the proud owner of the 2045. Wow was I impressed. Sure it doesn't have the picture of my Sammy 5000 series LED, but I didn't expect it to. I wanted a true immersive movie and gaming experience.

"Long time listener, first time caller" HA! anyways, this forum has been responsible for all of the enjoyment I've gotten out of all my AV stuff thus far. So, I wouldn't suppose anyone has reached the 100 hr bulb mark in order to calibrate their PJs? I was just curious to see what results you have seen. Are you able to achieve just a tad richer blacks? I know I won't be able to reach the levels of DLP.

The reason I'm asking is for the first few days I was waiting on delivery of my screen from Amazon, and showing it on the wall. Now it seems like the screen is showing more lackluster blacks than the beige wall I was previously using.
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post #395 of 1870 Old 12-01-2015, 08:02 PM
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Smile

Finally pulled the trigger! I am now the proud owner of the 2045. Wow was I impressed. Sure it doesn't have the picture of my Sammy 5000 series LED, but I didn't expect it to. I wanted a true immersive movie and gaming experience.

"Long time listener, first time caller" HA! anyways, this forum has been responsible for all of the enjoyment I've gotten out of all my AV stuff thus far. So, I wouldn't suppose anyone has reached the 100 hr bulb mark in order to calibrate their PJs? I was just curious to see what results you have seen. Are you able to achieve just a tad richer blacks? I know I won't be able to reach the levels of DLP.

The reason I'm asking is for the first few days I was waiting on delivery of my screen from Amazon, and showing it on the wall. Now it seems like the screen is showing more lackluster blacks than the beige wall I was previously using.
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post #396 of 1870 Old 12-01-2015, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by digitalnofx View Post
The reason I'm asking is for the first few days I was waiting on delivery of my screen from Amazon, and showing it on the wall. Now it seems like the screen is showing more lackluster blacks than the beige wall I was previously using.
What size screen?
The darker image from the beige wall dims the whole picture but the 2040 is plenty bright enough to lose some lumens at certain screen-sizes so for more modest sizes the Epson should be run in Eco and usually the Cinema preset and use a lower-gain screen or if needed a flat/matte interior wallpaint can do the job (either on a wall or on a screen) for all of ~$10.

Something at 135" or larger should work well using white, but something around 115" would work really well using a 0.7gain screen or flat-grey tinted "SnowField"..which is a hair over 0.7gain.
That darker screen at 115" will dim the Cinema Eco setting down to 20ftL which allows a solid brightness for 3D as well as a safe margin for the lamp to dim over time.

If you have a smaller screen or little/no plans for 3D, going even darker/lower-gain would be a solid plan. Gain around 0.6 or flat-grey tinted "Universal Grey" would keep you closer to 14ftL-16ftL.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 12-01-2015 at 11:27 PM.
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post #397 of 1870 Old 12-02-2015, 12:27 AM
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@digitalnofx - congrats! Any chance you use the 2045 for gaming? I'm still waiting to hear the definitive word on how it compares to the 2030 in that regard, since there's plenty of talk about less input lag, but nothing conclusive about whether or not you still need to put the projector into fast mode to achieve that. It was the most annoying thing that the 2030 couldn't manage <50 ms in fine mode, but if the 2045 can I think that's a huge upgrade in that regard.
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post #398 of 1870 Old 12-02-2015, 04:59 AM
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Play some more last night before I return the Epson 2040. The bright scenes are very nice indeed. Sharp and bright. But as soon as a dim/dark scene comes along, I'm pulled back to the reality that blacks just don't come close to existing with this projector. It's a tough choice because I obviously love the brightness but I was hoping to use this as my main cinema projector as well. I guess I'll be trying the DLP since I don't want to spend the cost of a high end LCD.

Someone made the comment earlier saying that I must just be a dlp fan. I wouldn't put it that way. I'm just a fan of a good pictures which requires contrast. This projector does not have good contrast and reminds me of the early LCD tv's which is why I always bought plasma and will now buy OLED tv's if I ever get another one. LCD just can't do it without a lot of "smoke and mirrors" (processing etc).

J
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post #399 of 1870 Old 12-02-2015, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaspercaron View Post
Play some more last night before I return the Epson 2040. The bright scenes are very nice indeed. Sharp and bright. But as soon as a dim/dark scene comes along, I'm pulled back to the reality that blacks just don't come close to existing with this projector. It's a tough choice because I obviously love the brightness but I was hoping to use this as my main cinema projector as well. I guess I'll be trying the DLP since I don't want to spend the cost of a high end LCD.

Someone made the comment earlier saying that I must just be a dlp fan. I wouldn't put it that way. I'm just a fan of a good pictures which requires contrast. This projector does not have good contrast and reminds me of the early LCD tv's which is why I always bought plasma and will now buy OLED tv's if I ever get another one. LCD just can't do it without a lot of "smoke and mirrors" (processing etc).

J
I take back what I said above about LCD projectors not being able to do it. I guess that this price point dictates what it can do rather than the tech itself. I know there are high end LCD projectors with very good blacks.

J
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post #400 of 1870 Old 12-02-2015, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
What size screen?
The darker image from the beige wall dims the whole picture but the 2040 is plenty bright enough to lose some lumens at certain screen-sizes so for more modest sizes the Epson should be run in Eco and usually the Cinema preset and use a lower-gain screen or if needed a flat/matte interior wallpaint can do the job (either on a wall or on a screen) for all of ~$10.
Ftoast, thank you for your reply. I wanted to keep the mobility of the 2045, so for that reason I chose to go with an Elite Screens 100" manual pull up model. Could it be the flat beige wall absorbed even ambient light while the 1.1 screen reflects it all?
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post #401 of 1870 Old 12-02-2015, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Boors View Post
@digitalnofx - congrats! Any chance you use the 2045 for gaming? I'm still waiting to hear the definitive word on how it compares to the 2030 in that regard, since there's plenty of talk about less input lag, but nothing conclusive about whether or not you still need to put the projector into fast mode to achieve that. It was the most annoying thing that the 2030 couldn't manage <50 ms in fine mode, but if the 2045 can I think that's a huge upgrade in that regard.
Boors,

I have played about 20 hours of AC Syndicate on the 2045 since I received it, but as we know that isn't a definitive test of input lag. I will say that AC was playable as a single player game with the Auto Iris set to high speed and Frame interpolation on Normal which are all the default settings. I will give Battlefront Multiplayer a test soon for you to see if I can tell a difference. Other than that I would have to set up a definitive lag test, and I don't have a CRT hanging around anymore to test against.
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post #402 of 1870 Old 12-02-2015, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by digitalnofx View Post
Ftoast, thank you for your reply. I wanted to keep the mobility of the 2045, so for that reason I chose to go with an Elite Screens 100" manual pull up model. Could it be the flat beige wall absorbed even ambient light while the 1.1 screen reflects it all?
Yeah, partly. The darker surface (the wall) absorbs ambient light and projected light which dims both equally, BUT when the room is decently dark inside and the projected image is lighting up the whole room, then the darker screen/wall will help lower the amount of light reflecting back onto the screen by dimming the image just enough (if you pick the right shade) so it lights up the room less AND the lighting up it does still manage around the room will get dimmed yet again by the screen when some does get reflected back.

Mostly though the darker screen like this will help because it'll dim the entire image down closer to theater specs. As long as the room isn't too bright an image around 15ftL should be plenty bright for 2D. Having the whole thing brighter than that (including its attempt at blacks) can make the darker scenes look a little worse.
At 100", your 2040 is over TWICE as bright as you need in a dark-ish space and a 0.5gain screen or the paint-color "Veil" would help the image look as good or better than it did on the beige wall.

If the screen was cheap enough or you find one that is, you can simply roll a coating of ~$10 flat interior paint tinted "Veil" onto the screen and leave it open to dry thoroughly for a few days.
Or you can paint a $10-15 sheet of 4X8ft panel (anything fairly smooth) and hang that anywhere you'd like..or you can paint some BOC or other fabric and make a soft screen that you can roll up and move around more easily.

Or if your screen is cheap enough BUT you like its brightness some times, you can paint the back of it.
EDIT: unless the screen has a support pole or something blocking part of the back..because that doesn't sound fun to watch.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 12-02-2015 at 09:50 AM.
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post #403 of 1870 Old 12-02-2015, 08:22 AM
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... Or if your screen is cheap enough BUT you like its brightness some times, you can paint the back of it.
Assuming he has the same 100" Elite ezCinema pull-up screen I have, painting the back of the screen is not an option as there is a support pole on the backside of the screen to hold it up.

One of the things I've wondered about with the 2040/2045 is if there's an option anywhere in the menu that allows the automatic iris to be put in manual mode and stopped down to reduce light output.
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post #404 of 1870 Old 12-02-2015, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
Assuming he has the same 100" Elite ezCinema pull-up screen I have, painting the back of the screen is not an option as there is a support pole on the backside of the screen to hold it up.

One of the things I've wondered about with the 2040/2045 is if there's an option anywhere in the menu that allows the automatic iris to be put in manual mode and stopped down to reduce light output.
Thanks for catching that..good point.

It won't have the option in any regular menu, but there's a small chance of finding something inside the Service Menu like in the Benq w7000 (though the manual control granted in the ServiceMenu didn't work well in that case).

There's also the extremely thin chance that a clever enough person software-wise might be able to make a 3rd-party firmware update to give some manual control of the iris.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #405 of 1870 Old 12-02-2015, 05:45 PM
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This won't work for a screen with a support in the middle but FWIW -I painted the backside of a stretched Carls flexiwhite screen. The backside was black so I painted a few coats of primer on that first, then Valspar tinted to Veil with AAA aluminum paint mixed in at 1:4 aka Black Widow. I am very impressed with the result compared to other screens I've used. It looks almost like the screen is 'active' and is generating the image rather than reflecting it. A good match for the 2040. We'll see how it matches with the Vivitek 1186 when that gets here next week.
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post #406 of 1870 Old 12-03-2015, 06:54 AM
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One advantage of Epson projectors mentioned in all the reviews is that they have a great warranty service. Epson will expedite a new projector to you at no charge and also pay for shipping your defective unit back to them after you receive the new unit. This will be available to you throughout the two-year warranty period.
Well just heard back from the seller. And I am happy to report that Epson recognized the unit as a DOA so I should get a Brand Spankin new Pj today or tomorrow. The sellers as been in business for 7 years now and sell a lot of PJ and told me my case happened to him only Once before on the first shipment of the 5030 so I guess that kind of comforting.

They sure have a GREAT customer service policy.

I hope to post here only about good things from now on
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post #407 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 07:31 AM
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Hello! I have never owned a projector before and now i have buyed this one. I would be really glad if someone could help me with the settings to calibrait this in the best way possible. What's your settings and how do i do to calibrait it?

Thanks!
Joakim

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post #408 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 07:57 AM
 
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My apologies for the less than ideal photos but this was taken with my handheld cellphone in low lighting conditions that would work best with a tripod.

I'm shooting my PC's 1080p desktop via HDMI on a blank blue wall with a heavy texture in Natural mode. Image enhancement is at the second preset. Because of the variables involved please don't use this for color reference etc but I think it might be useful to show the difference between Fine and Fast. I see very little difference.

First picture is Fine. Second is Fast.
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post #409 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 08:27 AM
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So I just had to jump on the bestbuy deal ($300 back in Gift cards) and get this. Now it still sits unopened on my kitchen table because I have nothing to project it to. I really need help with a screen. I need a pull down screen that's 100-120" but I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars. I've been all over in the screen forum and I feel completely lost with most people talking about the 1075.

Can any 2040 users recommend a cheap pull down screen? My environment will be window lit probably 20% of the time I use it. I like the idea of the darker screens to help with blacks but I really don't know anything about anything. I need guidance.
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post #410 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 08:55 AM
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Don't rush into buying a screen. Open the box and start enjoying your new projector. Project on a plain wall anywhere in your house. Sit at your preferred viewing distance and play around with the zoom to start getting a feel for what size image you prefer. Watch a couple of movies to make sure the image isn't too small or too big for your tastes. That will tell you what size screen to buy.
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post #411 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 09:23 AM
 
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Also any screen that works well with the 1075 would also be fine for the 2040. They are close enough in performance IMO.
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post #412 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 11:51 AM
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Hello! I have never owned a projector before and now i have buyed this one. I would be really glad if someone could help me with the settings to calibrait this in the best way possible. What's your settings and how do i do to calibrait it?
I haven't done a pro calibration - nor have I felt the need to re-configure any of the color settings. I am a semi-fussy viewer and find the out of the box mode options with their default settings very good. Skin tones look 'right on' to my eye- and they are the most critical for me.

I use 'Cinema' mode in 'eco' power or 'Bright Cinema' in 'eco' power mode most of the time.
Occasionally I'll use 'Dynamic. Sometimes I'll lower brightness a very little below 50% and/or boost contrast a smidge above 50% - but find the 50% default good on most things.

For 3D viewing I use 'normal' power mode as you loose a lot of the brightness watching 3D through the glasses.

I leave auto iris on 'normal' for now.
I generally don't like frame interpolation but use it on low on occasion, for sports and some TV viewing.

Run through the menu Image and Signal options (p71 manual) and see what works for you.

Hope this is helpful.
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post #413 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by harpo210 View Post
I haven't done a pro calibration - nor have I felt the need to re-configure any of the color settings. I am a semi-fussy viewer and find the out of the box mode options with their default settings very good. Skin tones look 'right on' to my eye- and they are the most critical for me.

I use 'Cinema' mode in 'eco' power or 'Bright Cinema' in 'eco' power mode most of the time.
Occasionally I'll use 'Dynamic. Sometimes I'll lower brightness a very little below 50% and/or boost contrast a smidge above 50% - but find the 50% default good on most things.

For 3D viewing I use 'normal' power mode as you loose a lot of the brightness watching 3D through the glasses.

I leave auto iris on 'normal' for now.
I generally don't like frame interpolation but use it on low on occasion, for sports and some TV viewing.

Run through the menu Image and Signal options (p71 manual) and see what works for you.

Hope this is helpful.
Thanks! I indeed also feel that the colors are great, but maybe it can be even better 😉 I turned contrast to 53. What do you have there? What's the difference between normal and high on auto iris? What do you have on image enchancement? I think it's great at present 5, but i have read in reviews that they recommend present 2. Why is that? Does it do something with the picture in a bad way?

If someone else also want to write your settings, feel free and it makes me happy! 😊

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post #414 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 04:21 PM
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I don't see big differences between the enhancement settings. I think I have it on 2 now, but I've tried a few of them briefly. The ones I tried all looked good. In general 'enhancement' of any kind starts to look artificial on high settings. I haven't seen anything really weird with the ones I've tried on this unit so far. If you like it on 5 - what the hell. It's your party!

"colors are great, but maybe it can be even better" - I'm sure a pro calibration would only make things better. You can also pick up a home calibration disc. or download a program for your laptop. I would note your current settings or better yet - save them into the memory slots (see below) before futzing around with things. There is a reset you can press in a worst case though, if you really screw things up. It will reset to factory defaults.

One thing you may not have seen yet is the user memory. You can adjust a variety of settings and save that as user memory 1,2,3,4,5 which you can then load back in. You can also re-name those memory slots like "sports", movies, night, day etc.
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post #415 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by harpo210 View Post
I don't see big differences between the enhancement settings. I think I have it on 2 now, but I've tried a few of them briefly. The ones I tried all looked good. In general 'enhancement' of any kind starts to look artificial on high settings. I haven't seen anything really weird with the ones I've tried on this unit so far. If you like it on 5 - what the hell. It's your party!

"colors are great, but maybe it can be even better" - I'm sure a pro calibration would only make things better. You can also pick up a home calibration disc. or download a program for your laptop. I would note your current settings or better yet - save them into the memory slots (see below) before futzing around with things. There is a reset you can press in a worst case though, if you really screw things up. It will reset to factory defaults.

One thing you may not have seen yet is the user memory. You can adjust a variety of settings and save that as user memory 1,2,3,4,5 which you can then load back in. You can also re-name those memory slots like "sports", movies, night, day etc.
I think it's a visible difference between present 2 and 5. And i can't see that it does something else with the picture in a bad way. I don't know why they recommend it at present 2 though? Does it make the picture more inaccorate or something?

I will look into that! Thanks! Great tips that I didn't know about.

What's the deal with auto iris? Does it improve the picture in any way? I think I read that it give you a higher contrast? Is it better to have high speed then normal? Or does the higher value something else?

Maybe I will figure out some more questions long the way 😊

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post #416 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 05:24 PM
 
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Putting enhancements too high can often being out noise or film grain with some sources.

Without a meter it will be hard to get the colors perfect. But by eye most of the defaults look a bit too cold/blue to me. I would suggest turning everything one notch towards red/warm (of course they don't call it that but you should be able to tell). It still won't be perfectly accurate but I think it looks more natural.

Avoid Dynamic. It has too much green push. I thought natural with color set to 6500 or 6000 looked pretty good.

The only downside to the iris is if it's too noisy for you or you see it at work (meaning it's distracting when it adjusts the image brightness). I liked normal the best.. High was a bit too spastic for me. Watch a trailer with quick cuts between light and dark scenes (I use the one for Cap 2). You'll likely see the iris at work.
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post #417 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 05:28 PM
 
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Regarding contrast 53...its probably not necessary but isn't that big of a deal. I did a quick and dirty calibration with my meter and I didn't have to change the defaults much. Also turn super white on or it wont display 'whiter than white'.
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post #418 of 1870 Old 12-04-2015, 09:10 PM
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Those who say the 2040 doesn't have great contrast, how much of an improvement is it compared to the 2030/2000 models? Not just black levels but overall picture quality as well? Thanks.
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post #419 of 1870 Old 12-05-2015, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jclub View Post
Those who say the 2040 doesn't have great contrast, how much of an improvement is it compared to the 2030/2000 models? Not just black levels but overall picture quality as well? Thanks.
The 2000/2030 measured around 325:1 while the 2040/2045 boosted up around 425:1 which while still a low contrast is a roughly 33% better and should be a visible (though somewhat subtle) difference.
Another contrast-related improvement was made to the dynamic iris. Though it still isn't all that well-behaved, the new iris can create a maximum difference around 5X greater than the older 2000/2030 iris which only provided a little over 1000:1dynamic contrast.

If you're deciding between the two, the newer model definitely has some solid advantages..especially during a good sale.

If you already own a 2000/2030 and are looking for an inexpensive upgrade, you might also consider the Epson 3000, BenQ w1070/1075 or Vivitek 1186 for the even higher contrast and higher optional mounting position which may even allow you to run both at once for whatever devious purposes you have!

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #420 of 1870 Old 12-05-2015, 06:42 AM
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Do you guys have any recommends of 3D glasses? Does anyone with RF work? I live in Sweden so I don't know if I can order from every site, but I hope so!

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