The Offical Epson 2040 Thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #451 of 1870 Old 12-10-2015, 08:51 PM
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I purchased the 2045 recently through the Best Buy deal and wanted to solicit a few opinions regarding throw distance. Based on the Projector Central calculator with a 120" screen, I can place the lens anywhere from 10'8" to 12'10" from the screen by adjusting the zoom. However, the throw distance and image diagonal sliders go into the red at the shorter throws. Does the red indicate that I am sacrificing image quality? Perhaps I am misinterpreting the information, but if not can anyone chime in with their anecdotal experience with shorter throw distances? Have you noticed a drop in quality based on sub-optimal throw distance? I can increase the throw distance from 10'8" to 12'10" if I would be losing a good bit of image quality, but due to room layout I would prefer to avoid that hassle.
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post #452 of 1870 Old 12-11-2015, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joydivisi0n View Post
I purchased the 2045 recently through the Best Buy deal and wanted to solicit a few opinions regarding throw distance. Based on the Projector Central calculator with a 120" screen, I can place the lens anywhere from 10'8" to 12'10" from the screen by adjusting the zoom. However, the throw distance and image diagonal sliders go into the red at the shorter throws. Does the red indicate that I am sacrificing image quality? Perhaps I am misinterpreting the information, but if not can anyone chime in with their anecdotal experience with shorter throw distances? Have you noticed a drop in quality based on sub-optimal throw distance? I can increase the throw distance from 10'8" to 12'10" if I would be losing a good bit of image quality, but due to room layout I would prefer to avoid that hassle.
I think it means you may have a drop in brightness, but the projector is so bright already it shouldn't be an issue.

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post #453 of 1870 Old 12-11-2015, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joydivisi0n View Post
I purchased the 2045 recently through the Best Buy deal and wanted to solicit a few opinions regarding throw distance. Based on the Projector Central calculator with a 120" screen, I can place the lens anywhere from 10'8" to 12'10" from the screen by adjusting the zoom. However, the throw distance and image diagonal sliders go into the red at the shorter throws. Does the red indicate that I am sacrificing image quality? Perhaps I am misinterpreting the information, but if not can anyone chime in with their anecdotal experience with shorter throw distances? Have you noticed a drop in quality based on sub-optimal throw distance? I can increase the throw distance from 10'8" to 12'10" if I would be losing a good bit of image quality, but due to room layout I would prefer to avoid that hassle.
The throw range on the 2045 is so short (2' 2") that it really makes little difference in my opinion. The old rule of thumb is to try for somewhere near the middle of the throw range due to lens characteristics but again with your small throw range I don't think that's an overriding concern. Just make sure you're able to get a sharp focus at whatever distance you settle on.

Here's a good article written by Art Feierman at Projector Reviews:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/arti...row-distances/

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post #454 of 1870 Old 12-11-2015, 07:31 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.G View Post
The throw range on the 2045 is so short (2' 2") that it really makes little difference in my opinion. The old rule of thumb is to try for somewhere near the middle of the throw range due to lens characteristics but again with your small throw range I don't think that's an overriding concern. Just make sure you're able to get a sharp focus at whatever distance you settle on.

Here's a good article written by Art Feierman at Projector Reviews:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/arti...row-distances/
I would agree that the zoom is near worthless....especially if you are just projecting on a wall. I suppose it might be slightly useful if you have a fixed screen with a velvet border and want to make slight adjustments to spill over but otherwise it doesn't really add a whole lot of placement flexibility.
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post #455 of 1870 Old 12-12-2015, 02:06 AM
 
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I don't think the improvements in contrast are worth it because it's minimal. The ambient light will pretty much affect them equally.

The only other major additions are Image Enhancement and FI. The former DOES add sharpness but is pretty subtle so it may not be a selling point. You already know if you like FI or not.

If you are a gamer the 2040 IMO looks much better in its fastest mode than the 2030 does.

If you can get the 2030 from someone with a good return policy I would try it first then pick up a 2040 if you dislike video games in Fast mode or if you have general issues with motion clarity or image sharpness.
Thanks for the reply. I'm not much of a gamer, I do have ambient light in my room so I need a budget projector that is bright enough to deal with that (which most projectors seem to be able to do nowadays).

I can only order either projector online so would rather not get into the trouble of returning one if it turns out to be not as expected.

I've been looking at every video I can find out there,

1. Here's a video comparing the Epson TW5300(2040) with the Benq, does the Benq have a very obvious RBE or is the camera a lot more sensitive to it? Because it seems like the Benq is like this in every video.


2. Epson 2030 vs Benq 1070


The Epson looks a lot better than the Benq here, and it looks like something I can accept based on the quality here.

3. Epson 2030 vs Benq 1070


However, the Epson doesn't look very sharp here.
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post #456 of 1870 Old 12-12-2015, 02:14 AM
 
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Originally Posted by steve1106 View Post
The native contrast is a wash between the 2000/2030 and the 2040/2040, but turn on the auto iris and the difference is 1170 for the 2030 vs 5000 for the 2040. (soundandvision.com and projectiondream.com).

Pix: HC2000 at 15ft for 16:9 169 inches.
It sounds like most people turn off auto iris. This is confusing me even more, I think the smart choice would be to go with something cheaper and wait LED to mature and replace LCD/DLP.
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post #457 of 1870 Old 12-12-2015, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by rocklee View Post
It sounds like most people turn off auto iris. This is confusing me even more, I think the smart choice would be to go with something cheaper and wait LED to mature and replace LCD/DLP.
Why do they turn it off?

Can someone tell me what MPEG Noise och the other Noise is and what it does? I'm not at home so I'm not sure what the names are.

Is it better to have the zoom in the middle rather then minimum and maximum?

What do you guys have for present in image enchancement?

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post #458 of 1870 Old 12-12-2015, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by westbergjoakim View Post
Why do they turn it off?

Can someone tell me what MPEG Noise och the other Noise is and what it does? I'm not at home so I'm not sure what the names are.

Is it better to have the zoom in the middle rather then minimum and maximum?

What do you guys have for present in image enchancement?

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Okay, here is my answer. While I haven't got the 2040, I do have 2 of the 2000s. When I first got my 2000 way back in 2013 I had seen in the forum that members complained about the iris sound and said they could see it in action. In my mind, I thought I could see it working. (The sound never bothered me and I only heard it when fast forwarding.) I turned it off thinking I could see it and figuring it would be the first thing to break. After about 9 months, I turned in on and left it on enjoying the image bump (blacks) I got from using the iris. (I never notice it working.)

So if you look for the iris in action and listen for the noise, you will notice it and it will bother you. Same thing with the black level. Look for it and you will notice it. I just don't look anymore and enjoy a 169 inch image or 120 inch (other projector/room).

Also, it increases the lag when playing fast action games, so it is turned off then as well.

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post #459 of 1870 Old 12-12-2015, 06:51 AM
 
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I would just put the Iris on Normal. I believe the default setting is called Fast or something similar and IMO it's way too spastic and visible on anything other than normal. A good torture test is the Cap 2 Winter Soldier trailer. With all the bright to dark rapid cuts the iris will really thrash around. If course normal content will likely never be this bad.
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post #460 of 1870 Old 12-12-2015, 07:45 AM
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Thanks! Is it any difference between normal and highspeed iris? Better blacks, contrast or anything with any of those?

Noise reduction and mpeg noise reduction? What are they and what is a good value for them?

I like present 5 (or 4) with a boost in detail in image enchancement. But is that bad to the picture in some ways? What do you guys think is the best picture for this projector, in color mode and the other settings?

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post #461 of 1870 Old 12-12-2015, 07:58 AM
 
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I suggested settings on page 15 of this thread.
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post #462 of 1870 Old 12-13-2015, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocklee View Post
1. Here's a video comparing the Epson TW5300(2040) with the Benq, does the Benq have a very obvious RBE or is the camera a lot more sensitive to it? Because it seems like the Benq is like this in every video.
The first review comes from projektory.pro. They made review of Optoma before that and they mentioned camera issues there. Seems like cameras are just more sensitive to image produced by DLP projectors.

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Originally Posted by westbergjoakim View Post
Why do they turn it off?

Can someone tell me what MPEG Noise och the other Noise is and what it does? I'm not at home so I'm not sure what the names are.

Is it better to have the zoom in the middle rather then minimum and maximum?

What do you guys have for present in image enchancement?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I would just put the Iris on Normal. I believe the default setting is called Fast or something similar and IMO it's way too spastic and visible on anything other than normal. A good torture test is the Cap 2 Winter Soldier trailer. With all the bright to dark rapid cuts the iris will really thrash around. If course normal content will likely never be this bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by westbergjoakim View Post
Thanks! Is it any difference between normal and highspeed iris? Better blacks, contrast or anything with any of those?

Noise reduction and mpeg noise reduction? What are they and what is a good value for them?

I like present 5 (or 4) with a boost in detail in image enchancement. But is that bad to the picture in some ways? What do you guys think is the best picture for this projector, in color mode and the other settings?
I'm not sure about specific Noise Reductions either. My best guess it that they work against different kind of noise - maybe someone will come up with solid examples of that? As for presets it depends on quality of image. I turn it off for grainy old movies (restored from master in a bad shape or restored from a copy, if no original negatives were left etc). Image enhancement creates weird shadows in this case. For recent films shot digitally I set it on Preset 2, level 3 is also fine, but beyond that I see some artifacts - jagged lines etc. Sitting distance could also make a difference here.

As for Iris, it is also content depended. For some films, even Iris on Normal could be noticeable - film with very fast cutting like "The Bourne Identity". On the other hand, Iris seems to have less issues with black and white films (editing is also slower in most cases), maybe High Speed could work there.

Zoom - I use it on max, but it has more to do with projector placement. Epson is bright enough that I wouldn't bother myself with it too much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I'm a hobbyist calibrator. I did a quick and dirty calibration on my 2040 but as results can vary from unit to unit and based upon your environment my settings would be meaningless.

But having sad that I would suggest the following :

Natural Mode

Color Space (I forget wjat they call it but you should be able to figure it out): 6500k This will still look a bit too cold/blue. I would change it to 6000k unless you think that looks too red. To me 6000k looks closer to a calibrated display.

Put it in Fine Mode. Set Image Enhancement to Preset 2

Turn Epson Super White to On.

Set bulb to Eco unless you need the brightness. FI should be whatever you like. Turn iris to normal.
I use very similar setting, I didn't do any calibration. I work in a print house and I think about colors in a CMYK, not RGB mode. I'm more that fine with Natural color mode. It has a little of blue taint, but when I go bellow 6500K color temperature I notice a orange tint on faces (6000K produces better color for background - forest etc, but it is a bit too warm for close-ups). Maybe I will play with taking down blues latter. Screen could affect those setting I presume.

I don't use Super White. Expanded HDMI video range on projector and full 0-255 RGB on PC seems to work best for me. I set Iris to Normal and Image Enhancement to 2 in most cases (mentioned earlier).
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post #463 of 1870 Old 12-14-2015, 12:12 PM
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I suggested settings on page 15 of this thread.
Can you link directly to that? I can't seem to find it as I don't even have a page 15 of this thread.

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post #464 of 1870 Old 12-14-2015, 12:28 PM
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Do you guys have any recommends of 3D glasses? Does anyone with RF work? I live in Sweden so I don't know if I can order from every site, but I hope so!
I just bought Samsung SSG-5100GB glasses from local store (easier return just in case). They work just fine, paired nicely with projector the first time. I probably will order something else online later on - I would prefer glasses that block light coming from the sides.

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Can you link directly to that? I can't seem to find it as I don't even have a page 15 of this thread.
I can't post links yet - too fresh member, but I quoted AMartin56 settings in my previous reply.
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post #465 of 1870 Old 12-14-2015, 12:40 PM
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I can't post links yet - too fresh member, but I quoted AMartin56 settings in my previous reply.
Thank you for the help
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post #466 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 04:03 PM
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Question - and its probably a dumb one -

Ive read that with the Epson 2045 it has a negative projection, so if you use a ceiling mount you need to extend it below the top of the screen. In my research it appears almost all mounts will adjust vertically via the mount itself.

Is there any downside of mounting the projector high and adjusting the angle down from there? I ask because we have an XB1 with Kinect and the kids like to play Just Dance. I am worried about them being in the line of sight of the projector and casting shadows

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post #467 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 05:18 PM
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I've had the Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 720 Projector for the last 6 years and i am thinking about switching to the Epson 2040. I Have been very happy with the 720 but the bulb is nearing the end of it's life. The problem is I have never seen any other HD projectors to compare mine to. Home theater projectors are not very popular in my area of Newfoundland. There are no showrooms setup for projectors in the electronics stores and I don't know anyone who has a HD projector. The only reason I bought a projector in the first place was because of the great advice I got from reading this forum. Could someone please compare the 720 to the 2040. I watch a lot of sports especially hockey and plenty of movies. The picture and the black levels look good to me on the 720. Maybe if i saw a higher end projector I would feel differently. If the 2040 is as good or better than the 720 for picture, black levels, and watching a fast moving sport like hockey it would be a great projector for me.
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post #468 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I'm a hobbyist calibrator. I did a quick and dirty calibration on my 2040 but as results can vary from unit to unit and based upon your environment my settings...
I would love to hear your settings after your dirty calibration if you want to share. This is my first projector so I don't know any good settings at all and then I could compare and see if I like it and if it's good om my unit. So if you want to, i would be superhappy!


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post #469 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Matts4313 View Post
Question - and its probably a dumb one -

Ive read that with the Epson 2045 it has a negative projection, so if you use a ceiling mount you need to extend it below the top of the screen. In my research it appears almost all mounts will adjust vertically via the mount itself.

Is there any downside of mounting the projector high and adjusting the angle down from there? I ask because we have an XB1 with Kinect and the kids like to play Just Dance. I am worried about them being in the line of sight of the projector and casting shadows
If you mount the 2045 at a higher position than it's designed for and adjust the angle of the projector down, it will produce a trapezoid shaped image. Since the 2045 doesn't have lens shift, the only way to square the image up is to use digital keystone, which degrades the image. Those who demand the best possible image will avoid using digital keystone. Those who aren't picky about image quality will use it for convenience. If you want the best possible image and want your projector mounted higher, you should consider a projector with an offset that allows it to be mounted higher or one with lens shift that will allow you to angle the lens down without degrading the image.
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post #470 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 06:43 PM
 
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Originally Posted by westbergjoakim View Post
I would love to hear your settings after your dirty calibration if you want to share. This is my first projector so I don't know any good settings at all and then I could compare and see if I like it and if it's good om my unit. So if you want to, i would be superhappy!


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Eventually our new house will be finished and I'll have a proper room with proper / relatively neutral screen material. When that goes down I'll be happy to share my settings. Prior to that I don't think it would do anyone any good.

And honesty I don't remember the grayscale being THAT far off when starting with Natural Mode. Basically you'd be using the 2pt controls to find a spot between the menu's 6500k setting (which is too cold) and the 6000k setting (which is probably too warm). I didn't feel the need to adjust the CMS...the colors were close enough.

I don't feel like a calibration is something the 2040 desperately needs (or is likely to get considering its price point). But I have the equipment and enough knowledge to be dangerous so I figured why not.
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post #471 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 06:59 PM
 
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So here are some graphs from my calibration pass. This was the default natural setting with color temp set to 6500k. Brightness was set to 52...everything else was the default.


Depending on how much you know about calibration this might not make total sense but these results aren't that bad.


In the first graph you would prefer to have the red, green and blue lines be flat and right on top of each other.


In the next you would prefer the blue line to be straight/flat at exactly 6500. Higher will look blue....lower will look red/warm.


The third chart shows gamma response. This is a very good result and mimics BT.1886 and is partially responsible for the good shadow detail. This is with the iris OFF....I turn it off for calibration and then back on when I am done.


The last chart shows color response. Technically you want the little colored dots within the nearby square boxes but this is also a good result for an entry level projector when I didn't touch the CMS (Color Management System).
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post #472 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 07:11 PM
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I have looked up fan noise complaints on this thread but couldn't find any. Sorry if I repost this issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I currently own a HC2030. I've had the projector for just under 3 months. I have it ceiling mounted and we sit about 4-5 feet directly below. My only problem with it is the fan noise. The specs on the Epson website say the fan noise is 29-37 dB. I do not have a professional noise measuring device, so I downloaded an app on my phone which indicated the noise coming from the fan is on average 50 dB. It's really not the dB level as much as it is the type of noise coming from the fan. It has a certain pitch to it, as opposed to just sounding like a fan (white noise). I kind of gotten used to it, but only after turning the audio way up. And I mean way up. Then I watched INTERSTELLAR and that did it for me. The movie was too quiet to drown any fan noise no matter how loud I turned the audio. Epson sent me a refurbished unit, which has the same fan noise. Tomorrow they're supposed to send me a brand new unit. I really like the picture quality and the 3D but the fan noise is a killer. I do have a decent sound set-up, I just keep hearing the flippin fan no matter what. Has anyone else experienced this? How is the fan noise in the 2045?

Thanks
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post #473 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 07:24 PM
 
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I wouldn't expect the 2040/2045 to be any different than the 2030 noise wise. Is your 2030 better in Eco mode? My 2040 isn't silent in Eco but it's not distracting IMO. I don't like the fan noise in high lamp.
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post #474 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 07:45 PM
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I have looked up fan noise complaints on this thread but couldn't find any. Sorry if I repost this issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I sit just to the side of it in my earlevel and I can't hear it in Eco when I only have just a little sound. More in Normal but if I turn up the volym, I don't hear that either. I own 2040.

I did compare 2040 to calibrated BenQ w1070 side by side the other day and I must say that 2040 is the winner in every level. Better and sharper image, w1070 had a little warmer and deeper colors though but I'm sure that 2040 can increast that also with a calibration. Almost likewise black levels, 2040 a little better in some scenes and w1070 a little better in others. But 2040 had more sharp and details in dark scenes. There I thought that w1070 would be alot better so I will stick with 2040.

I loved everything with it, but wished a little better black level. But now when compared I won't let it go, this is a great unit to a little price and a new lamp for almost nothing.



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post #475 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
If you mount the 2045 at a higher position than it's designed for and adjust the angle of the projector down, it will produce a trapezoid shaped image. Since the 2045 doesn't have lens shift, the only way to square the image up is to use digital keystone, which degrades the image. Those who demand the best possible image will avoid using digital keystone. Those who aren't picky about image quality will use it for convenience. If you want the best possible image and want your projector mounted higher, you should consider a projector with an offset that allows it to be mounted higher or one with lens shift that will allow you to angle the lens down without degrading the image.
Thanks!

I just did the super scientific experiment of holding the projector above my head to test it, and I think its actually going to work perfect as is in my scenario. It doesnt make a lot of sense to me, but somehow people standing in between the projector and wall (the soon to be projector screen) are not casting shadows... You have to really try (hand raised) to get any sort of shadow.

So all is well!

Last edited by Matts4313; 12-16-2015 at 08:36 PM.
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post #476 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westbergjoakim View Post
I sit just to the side of it in my earlevel and I can't hear it in Eco when I only have just a little sound. More in Normal but if I turn up the volym, I don't hear that either. I own 2040.
I have the 2045, but haven't mounted it yet, with it sitting behind us at about 5ft off the ground Eco is still silent, Normal is clearly audible in a quieter room, but with the sound turned up to movie listening levels you probably won't hear it hardly at all.
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post #477 of 1870 Old 12-16-2015, 10:34 PM
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Was looking at buying one of the Chief Ceiling mounts used on ebay, anyone had good experience with them? I'm afraid of just going with the $25 mount from amazon figuring it'll be finicky when trying to dial it in right and maybe not hold position well.
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post #478 of 1870 Old 12-17-2015, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadeth1 View Post
Was looking at buying one of the Chief Ceiling mounts used on ebay, anyone had good experience with them? I'm afraid of just going with the $25 mount from amazon figuring it'll be finicky when trying to dial it in right and maybe not hold position well.

The $25 dollar Amazon special isn't that bad, but it does require effort to get it right. The first one took me about 45 minutes (install, mount and line up) and I should have read the instructions, but my wife the instruction reader wasn't at home so I skipped that step. On the second one, months later it took 20 minutes since I was doing it for a friend and he provided an extra set of hands (still didn't read the instructions). Mine is mounted in the basement and it has never moved even with the foot traffic above. I didn't use the extension on either mount.

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Epson HC3700/HC2000; Screen - 151.5" 16:9/TV or 143.5" 2.35:1/HT at a seating distance of 12-15 feet; Yamaha RXV675 for 7.4; Speakers - Infinity Primus; Subs - 3 Polk PSW10s, 1 BIC F12; Headphones - 5 JVC wireless; Sony 3D Blu-ray player/six pairs 3D glasses.
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post #479 of 1870 Old 12-17-2015, 08:17 AM
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When I turn frame interpolation on I see a smooth effect and then a jitter every 5-10 seconds. Its on the low, medium, and high frame interpolation setting. Is anyone else experiencing this? I saw someone else mention it earlier in this thread in their review of the projector. I just tried it right out of the box yesterday with a fire stick plugged into the MHL port while streaming transformers.
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post #480 of 1870 Old 12-17-2015, 02:02 PM
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I perhaps missed it in this long thread but does anyone have any recommendations for a hard case for when I take this with me on the road?

Thanks

Josh
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