The Offical Epson 2040 Thread - Page 18 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #511 of 1870 Old 01-07-2016, 07:02 AM
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Greetings,

When using the projector for gaming you should run it in fast mode.
I've found out that when I use the computer as the source, connected via HDMI, when I play videos from bluray disks or youtube, I can use frame interpolation without judder (lag effect) if I change the settings on the computer's graphic card to output video at 24 fps, the judder is almost absent but you should try frame interpolation on low setting, because if you try it at normal or high you will see the soap opera effect.

In another forum they said to me that this model 2040 is really entry level, and much less sharper than DLP projectors, what do you think about that?
I'm fealling a little disappointed with my projector.

Best regards,
Danny
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post #512 of 1870 Old 01-07-2016, 08:33 AM
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Quick question here,

I Just got back from the holidays and decided to Temporarily mount the Pj in my basement for placement and screen size test.

I Noticed a bow in the picture and more pronounced at the bottom. It seems to be a bad behaviour kept from the 2030's so I'm not going to send it back for this a it seems they all do that.

Looking in the web about a potential fix I found this on the Epson help: If any bands or overall blurriness remain, display a uniformly patterned image on the screen and manually adjust the Tracking and Sync settings.

Where do you find those things??
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post #513 of 1870 Old 01-07-2016, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danny92 View Post
Greetings,

When using the projector for gaming you should run it in fast mode.
I've found out that when I use the computer as the source, connected via HDMI, when I play videos from bluray disks or youtube, I can use frame interpolation without judder (lag effect) if I change the settings on the computer's graphic card to output video at 24 fps, the judder is almost absent but you should try frame interpolation on low setting, because if you try it at normal or high you will see the soap opera effect.

In another forum they said to me that this model 2040 is really entry level, and much less sharper than DLP projectors, what do you think about that?
I'm fealling a little disappointed with my projector.

Best regards,
Danny
I wrote in a earlier post that I compared this with a calibrated W1070 side by side and after that I decided to keep 2040. Sharper, better image and also a little better overall in black level with a little more sharp and details there. In some blacks 2040 was a little better and in some W1070 a little better, but 2040 was still the winner. With a grey screen the black level gets even better! W1070 had deeper and warmer colors, but I think 2040 is a better choice.

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post #514 of 1870 Old 01-07-2016, 10:59 AM
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...Never mind

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post #515 of 1870 Old 01-07-2016, 03:48 PM
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Has anyone noticed a ridiculously loud auto iris? Mine sounds like a faulty hard drive searching. Nails on a chalkboard type of situation.
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post #516 of 1870 Old 01-07-2016, 05:35 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemun View Post
Has anyone noticed a ridiculously loud auto iris? Mine sounds like a faulty hard drive searching. Nails on a chalkboard type of situation.
I can hear mine working but it's no louder than the fan on Eco.
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post #517 of 1870 Old 01-07-2016, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I can hear mine working but it's no louder than the fan on Eco.
Thanks for that. I might have a doa then =(
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post #518 of 1870 Old 01-07-2016, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danny92 View Post
Greetings,

When using the projector for gaming you should run it in fast mode.
I've found out that when I use the computer as the source, connected via HDMI, when I play videos from bluray disks or youtube, I can use frame interpolation without judder (lag effect) if I change the settings on the computer's graphic card to output video at 24 fps, the judder is almost absent but you should try frame interpolation on low setting, because if you try it at normal or high you will see the soap opera effect.

In another forum they said to me that this model 2040 is really entry level, and much less sharper than DLP projectors, what do you think about that?
I'm fealling a little disappointed with my projector.

Best regards,
Danny
I wouldn't say this is entry level I think sub 400 price is. I will say this is nicer than my optoma hd20.

Question about 3d glasses does it matter which one's passive vs active will both work?

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post #519 of 1870 Old 01-07-2016, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Forth_Man View Post
Quick question here,

I Just got back from the holidays and decided to Temporarily mount the Pj in my basement for placement and screen size test.

I Noticed a bow in the picture and more pronounced at the bottom. It seems to be a bad behaviour kept from the 2030's so I'm not going to send it back for this a it seems they all do that.

Looking in the web about a potential fix I found this on the Epson help: If any bands or overall blurriness remain, display a uniformly patterned image on the screen and manually adjust the Tracking and Sync settings.

Where do you find those things??
I think remote controlled and the pattern test maybe ?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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post #520 of 1870 Old 01-08-2016, 07:47 PM
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Hello all, long time browser first time poster.

I picked myself up a 2045 and a 1070 during the boxing week sales and after putting the projectors through their paces I have to say I am keeping the Epson and the Benq has gone back.

A little background; This is the second projector I've owned with the first being an Optoma HD70 many years ago. I thought the Optoma had a nice picture colour and contrast wise but instantly suffered eye strain and saw rainbows left, right and center. needless to say I struggled through it only to sell the unit 6 months later and figured under $1000 projectors just weren't going to work for me (LCDs at the time were pretty screen doory and washed out).

Flash forward to the present; I had heard a lot of talk about how the Benq 1070 was supposed to be "the best" when it came to low RBE from a single chip DLP so I though I'd try it out while hedging my bets with a 2045 due to the press it was getting from its extra features (CFI) and better contrast levels/improved auto iris.

My room is in the basement, light controlled but not treated. I can get the room pitch black in the evening and extremely dark in the daytime. The walls are a fairly neutral beige that's about equal to an N8, this was my test screen though I will be painting a screen on the wall using 2 coats Kilz2 and 2 coats CIL Unique Gray in eggshell. The projectors were tested off of tables but the Espon is now ceiling mounted about 14' back from the screen which is roughly 130-140" diagonal.

The Benq was a non starter as I was still seeing rainbows on the unit and feeling the all too familiar eyestrain that I got from the Optoma. To be fair, I definitely saw fewer rainbows than I did with the HD70 but once I start seeing them I can't un-see them and eyestrain is well... unpleasant. So the Benq was off the list.

The Epson; Out of the box the Epson was weirding me out with some serious soap opera effect. After a quick search I found that this was the CFI in action so I promptly turned it off. 3 full movies on the 2045 and I have not seen a need for the CFI, motion is just as good as my 51" Plasma. I rocked out a little Fallout 4 from my PC and had no problems with lag. Convergence was fine on my unit with green only being off maybe a 1/4 pixel, picture is razor sharp and pixels are undetectable from more than 3-4 feet away.

Switching from one projector to the other I did find that the Benq was getting slightly better blacks but to be honest I am more than happy with the blacks I'm getting from the 2045.

So to summarize:
Overall picture quality: If I had more than 15 minutes in between seeing each unit I'd be hard pressed to give either the edge, it really does take a back to back comparison for the Benq to rise above the 2045 EXCEPT for the rainbows and headaches. So to be honest, at least in my case I give picture to Epson. If you are worrying about picture quality, going into a light controlled room on an n8 surface you should be totally satisfied with the 2045. I know I am.
Warranty and lamp replacement: Epson all the way
Room placement: Gotta give this one to the Benq, luckily the Espon worked out just fine for my room as it has low ceilings right where the projector was going to go.

Just thought I'd add my experiences to the list, figured after mooching all the great information on this site the least I could do it pound out a few paragraphs.

Cheers!
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post #521 of 1870 Old 01-08-2016, 08:03 PM
 
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I'm also RBE sensitive and see rainbows on projectors that supposedly excel at avoiding it. I otherwise like the picture but the eyestrain is unbearable.
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post #522 of 1870 Old 01-09-2016, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemun View Post
Has anyone noticed a ridiculously loud auto iris? Mine sounds like a faulty hard drive searching. Nails on a chalkboard type of situation.
I find it very content depended. With fast editing, it often can't keep up - iris is opening then closing, making loud noise. I typically run it in normal mode and switch off for films with fast editing like "The Bourne Identity". For some older movies (much slower pace and editing) I can push auto iris to high, without being annoyed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Forth_Man View Post
Looking in the web about a potential fix I found this on the Epson help: If any bands or overall blurriness remain, display a uniformly patterned image on the screen and manually adjust the Tracking and Sync settings.

Where do you find those things??
Signal menu, but it is only available, when PC port is used.

Quote:
Originally Posted by danny92 View Post
I've found out that when I use the computer as the source, connected via HDMI, when I play videos from bluray disks or youtube, I can use frame interpolation without judder (lag effect) if I change the settings on the computer's graphic card to output video at 24 fps, the judder is almost absent but you should try frame interpolation on low setting, because if you try it at normal or high you will see the soap opera effect.
That matches my experience. Frame interpolation works with 1080p/24, but with 1080p/60 judder is very visible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thirsty1258 View Post
Question about 3d glasses does it matter which one's passive vs active will both work?
Passive glasses won't work for sure. You need active 3D glasses, anything with "FULL HD 3D RF" stick should work. You can also search the topic for some reports about compatible glasses.


By the way - I stared playing with B&W films and it will require some work (as I expected with 3LCD). With normal settings and Natural mode, image has orange, maybe even red tint. With 7000k color temperature, image has cyan/green tint. At 6500k when I take off offset from red, dark shadows have green tint. I didn't play to much with it, but going into 6000k color temperature and taking off both offset and gain from red produces acceptable image (not perfect). I'll probably go even further with 5500k next time, B&W specific profile seems way to go.

I almost forgot to mention: Noise Reduction reduces visible grain in older films - not so much on a still frame, but it helps when switching from frame to frame (not sure about MPEG noise reduction yet).
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post #523 of 1870 Old 01-09-2016, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I'm also RBE sensitive and see rainbows on projectors that supposedly excel at avoiding it. I otherwise like the picture but the eyestrain is unbearable.
I've heard a lot of people say that sensitivity to RBE is really uncommon but back when I had the Optoma I know that of the 20 or so friends I'd shown films to, about 5 of them said they noticed rainbows at least a couple of times. I know it's a small sample group but I'd say 25% isn't "uncommon". Maybe the number would have been lower if I was rocking a 6x colour wheel unit but even then, the off chance of having people over to check out my really cool home theater only to give them a headache is super unappealing.

Question for anyone out there that may know; I was wondering if anyone has thrown a lens filter on their 2040 or 2030 for that matter as I think they have the same body design? I was thinking of trying out a medium strength, glass warming filter (not really interested in Neutral density) and was unsure as to how to mount it and what size to get. My assessment is that the size of the filter will depend on exactly how I attach it to the unit so I'm looking for some first hand experience.

To reiterate, I am very satisfied with my picture as is BUT I'm a tweeker and a tinkerer by nature and I love messing with this sort of thing (especially a possible improvement for only $15 or so). Chances are I'll be one of those guys that spends days painting test cards with new paint samples for his screen.

Cheers and thanks again for all the great info!
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post #524 of 1870 Old 01-09-2016, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post


Passive glasses won't work for sure. You need active 3D glasses, anything with "FULL HD 3D RF" stick should work. You can also search the topic for some reports about compatible glasses.


By the way - I stared playing with B&W films and it will require some work (as I expected with 3LCD). With normal settings and Natural mode, image has orange, maybe even red tint. With 7000k color temperature, image has cyan/green tint. At 6500k when I take off offset from red, dark shadows have green tint. I didn't play to much with it, but going into 6000k color temperature and taking off both offset and gain from red produces acceptable image (not perfect). I'll probably go even further with 5500k next time, B&W specific profile seems way to go.

Greetings,


Passive anaglyph 3D glasses can work if you use 3D software, but that's not very good.
I'm using active shutter RF glasses, Samsung SSG5100, but most of the 3D active shutter RF glasses should work with this projector, IR glasses doesn't work.


Do you know how to calibrate the colors on the Epson 2040 to get closer to Rec. 709?


Best regards,
Danny
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post #525 of 1870 Old 01-09-2016, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danny92 View Post
Greetings,


Passive anaglyph 3D glasses can work if you use 3D software, but that's not very good.
I'm using active shutter RF glasses, Samsung SSG5100, but most of the 3D active shutter RF glasses should work with this projector, IR glasses doesn't work.


Do you know how to calibrate the colors on the Epson 2040 to get closer to Rec. 709?


Best regards,
Danny
Thanks those are the glasses I was looking go order. Amazon was out of stock and best buy didn't carry them

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post #526 of 1870 Old 01-12-2016, 10:43 AM
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Hey guys.
I just bought the Epson 2045 and, while I expected the blacks to be a little washed out, they just look too grey.
The issue is not in the source video, because I tried the projector's menu screen, which has a black background, and it's still grey.
It's not room lighting either because, other than white ceiling, the room is dark and light controled. Also, I can cast a clear shadow of my hand (as seen in attatched picture) over the "black" background, so it's not light coming back from the room, but excesive light from the projector.
Black bars (letterbox/pillarbox) look the same. Dark scenes look really bad.
Eco mode helps, but the brightness setting doesn't give me anything darker than the black on the black bars.
What do you guys recommend?
Some magic calibration?
A grey screen?
ND filter?

Thanks in advance.
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post #527 of 1870 Old 01-12-2016, 01:52 PM
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Color uniformity problem

Greetings,


When I project a white image from my Epson 2040 it seems to me that the left side of the screen, specifically the bottom corner seems to have a slight pink tint and the right side of the screen, specifically the upper corner seems to have a slight blue tint, is this some defect/malfunction or that's normal?


Best regards,
Danny
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post #528 of 1870 Old 01-12-2016, 01:56 PM
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I don't post much, but I use this site all the time, so I wanted to contribute. I purchased the Epson 2045 recently to replace my InFocus IN72 that I bought in 2007. My IN72 had over 7000 hours on it and was finally so dim, that even with every light off I could no longer enjoy it. Good bye sweet prince!

Anyway on to the new 2045. Wow! This is my first 3 LCD projector and I got it because all of the reviews mentioned it being a good projector in rooms with ambient light, and the low bulb cost. A few things I should mention in reference to my review:
  • My projectors have always been my main TV.
  • I use it in the den which has tons of light and I leave lights on.
  • I watch mainly sports and the occasional movie or TV show.
  • I'm color blind, so I'm the opposite of most fine tuners on here. I still feel like I can appreciate a good picture

This thing was made for me. Now granted, I realize I'm coming from an almost 10 year old projector that wasn't HD and had maybe 900 lumens? But I'm extremely happy with my purchase. It is so bright. Now the problem is it has exposed Uverse! I couldn't figure out why the football looked so bad spiraling through the air, until I read that Uverse heavily compresses their 1080i feed. Boo!

Some other notes:
  • The speaker comes in super handy! I leave a Chromecast plugged up to the other HDMI port, and when I want to stream Twitch or something from my phone, I still have audio. The rest of my inputs come from a receiver. When football season comes back around it will be really nice to be able to move it outside with just power and a chromecast.
  • Another thing that is kind of unfairly in its favor when comparing to my old one, was I bought a screen for the first time (Silver Ticket 92").
  • The screen is almost too reflective. When it is dark out and the projector is on, it almost brightens my whole room. Even on the Dynamic Cinema setting.
  • The thing was a steal at Best Buy, got it for $799 + a $300 Gift Cards back.
  • The black levels are not good, but because of how I use this, it really doesn't bother me.

Thanks to all the contributors' posts I poured through on here for days!
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post #529 of 1870 Old 01-12-2016, 02:46 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danny92 View Post
Greetings,


When I project a white image from my Epson 2040 it seems to me that the left side of the screen, specifically the bottom corner seems to have a slight pink tint and the right side of the screen, specifically the upper corner seems to have a slight blue tint, is this some defect/malfunction or that's normal?


Best regards,
Danny
That doesn't look that bad to me and I would call it normal. But it's up to you what you can live with. If it bothers you and can easily return it or swap it out I would do so.

Pink whites can be corrected if the entire screen is pink by turning down the contrast but that won't help if the discoloration is not uniform.

If you can only see the pink on test patterns and full white I would leave it alone. Not many display devices have perfect uniformity nowadays. If you see pink during normal content replace it.
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post #530 of 1870 Old 01-12-2016, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danny92 View Post
Do you know how to calibrate the colors on the Epson 2040 to get closer to Rec. 709?
According to http://projectiondream.com/en/review...son-eh-tw5300/ Natural mode isn't that far off from REC 709, still it has some blue bias.

This matches also experience of AMartin56: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...l#post39556186

I have similar experience, right now I'm happy with settings very similar to AMartin56. You can check discussion few pages earlier for more info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarCam View Post
Hey guys.
I just bought the Epson 2045 and, while I expected the blacks to be a little washed out, they just look too grey.
The issue is not in the source video, because I tried the projector's menu screen, which has a black background, and it's still grey.
It's not room lighting either because, other than white ceiling, the room is dark and light controled. Also, I can cast a clear shadow of my hand (as seen in attatched picture) over the "black" background, so it's not light coming back from the room, but excesive light from the projector.
Black bars (letterbox/pillarbox) look the same. Dark scenes look really bad.
Eco mode helps, but the brightness setting doesn't give me anything darker than the black on the black bars.
What do you guys recommend?
Some magic calibration?
A grey screen?
ND filter?
Are you projecting onto bed sheet (judging by the photos)? Can you look behind the screen (bed sheet?) and see how much light is passing through it? That could be a problem.


Quote:
Originally Posted by brodus View Post
  • The screen is almost too reflective. When it is dark out and the projector is on, it almost brightens my whole room. Even on the Dynamic Cinema setting.
Dynamic Mode is the brightest one at the cost of color accuracy. Most folks here are running Natural, Cinema or Bright Cinema - all in Eco mode. You can try to adjust brightness setting if are bothered by it. The question is how many lamp hours has your projector passed? If it is not even past 100 hour mark, I wouldn't bother.
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post #531 of 1870 Old 01-12-2016, 02:54 PM
 
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This thing was made for me. !

I would agree based upon what you describe. It's only real weaknesses are black level and placement flexibility and that is somewhat understandable considering the price point. If you can place it properly and intend to use it as a TV replacement with some ambient light then I think it's just about perfect. No fear about heavy usage with the price of bulbs. This thing WAS literally designed for your intended use!
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post #532 of 1870 Old 01-12-2016, 02:57 PM
 
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I think the 'bright' modes should be avoided. They push a LOT of green. And while you might be able to tone that down with a meter I don't think the results would be worth it. Better to just use the more accurate modes and get a higher gain screen if you still need more brightness.
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post #533 of 1870 Old 01-12-2016, 03:30 PM
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hi everyone


Need a little help.


I'm trying to figure out (l've done lots of research) on how I should connect the following items up to my projector.


I have a Rotel 1057 receiver (two hdmi inputs)
I would like to connect my ps3, google chromecast, WDlive and possibly my PC.


So since I only have two hdmi inputs into my receiver and I its not easily accessible, I thought I would look at getting a monoprice (model 5557) 4x1 HDMI® Switch with Analog, Digital Coaxial, and Digital Optical Audio Outputs.
I thought I would input all my media into the box via hdmi, digital optical out to my receiver and hdmi to my projector. my concern are 1) will this product do what I want it to do and 2) will the media coming out of my pc or google chromecast only output 2 channel as the output source (projector speaker) is only two channels?


thanks
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post #534 of 1870 Old 01-12-2016, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brodus View Post
I don't post much, but I use this site all the time, so I wanted to contribute. I purchased the Epson 2045 recently to replace my InFocus IN72 that I bought in 2007. My IN72 had over 7000 hours on it and was finally so dim, that even with every light off I could no longer enjoy it. Good bye sweet prince!

Anyway on to the new 2045. Wow! This is my first 3 LCD projector and I got it because all of the reviews mentioned it being a good projector in rooms with ambient light, and the low bulb cost. A few things I should mention in reference to my review:
  • My projectors have always been my main TV.
  • I use it in the den which has tons of light and I leave lights on.
  • I watch mainly sports and the occasional movie or TV show.
  • I'm color blind, so I'm the opposite of most fine tuners on here. I still feel like I can appreciate a good picture

This thing was made for me. Now granted, I realize I'm coming from an almost 10 year old projector that wasn't HD and had maybe 900 lumens? But I'm extremely happy with my purchase. It is so bright. Now the problem is it has exposed Uverse! I couldn't figure out why the football looked so bad spiraling through the air, until I read that Uverse heavily compresses their 1080i feed. Boo!

Some other notes:
  • The speaker comes in super handy! I leave a Chromecast plugged up to the other HDMI port, and when I want to stream Twitch or something from my phone, I still have audio. The rest of my inputs come from a receiver. When football season comes back around it will be really nice to be able to move it outside with just power and a chromecast.
  • Another thing that is kind of unfairly in its favor when comparing to my old one, was I bought a screen for the first time (Silver Ticket 92").
  • The screen is almost too reflective. When it is dark out and the projector is on, it almost brightens my whole room. Even on the Dynamic Cinema setting.
  • The thing was a steal at Best Buy, got it for $799 + a $300 Gift Cards back.
  • The black levels are not good, but because of how I use this, it really doesn't bother me.

Thanks to all the contributors' posts I poured through on here for days!
Good time see someone else cashed in on the best buy deal! I have to agree. I love this projector for all the reasons you said. i dont know how to use them cast screen stuff or what eve yet or the WiFi stuff. I came from a 6 year old dlp optoma hd20 . Enjoy it I know I will. Also I was going through bulbs like crazy and now Im not worried about it.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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post #535 of 1870 Old 01-13-2016, 06:55 AM
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Are you projecting onto bed sheet (judging by the photos)? Can you look behind the screen (bed sheet?) and see how much light is passing through it? That could be a problem.
Yes, I'm using a white bed sheet until my screen arives next week. There's not light passing through it, plus my problem is too much light.

I've also tried with grey cardboard. The grey helps a lot so I'm going for a grey high contrast screen.
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post #536 of 1870 Old 01-13-2016, 07:45 AM
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Yes, I'm using a white bed sheet until my screen arives next week. There's not light passing through it, plus my problem is too much light.

I've also tried with grey cardboard. The grey helps a lot so I'm going for a grey high contrast screen.
I find it impossible to believe that light doesn't shine thru your sheet. If i peek behind my Carl's ALR material (it is the ALR grey on front side and a glossy grey on the backside), I can still see a little bit of light shining thru. Some people put black material on first and then their screen material over the black.

If you want to DIY frame or just pin to wall, I would try carl's ALR material, or cinegrey 5d material. They can both be bought in 135" size and then you can trim to your needs.

I tried the 2045 last night with my 110" Carl's ALR screen. I have been using the BenQ HT2050 for a month. The 2045 was plenty bright and i ended up putting it in eco mode. The black levels were just as good as the BenQ DLP IMO.

Only negative of the 2045 is that it has to hang lower from the roof then the BenQ, and SDE (screen door effect) is just a tiny big thicker than the DLP projectors. Other than that it is a keeper! I think I'll be keeping both projectors; at least for a while.

Here's a pic I took on xmas eve before I got the projector re-hung. Before I was just projecting onto the wall, but my wife made me finish the screen since we had family over for xmas.

I made a longer extension for the 2045, so I can swap between the epson and benq pretty quickly.
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post #537 of 1870 Old 01-13-2016, 08:39 AM
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Yes, I'm using a white bed sheet until my screen arives next week. There's not light passing through it, plus my problem is too much light.

I've also tried with grey cardboard. The grey helps a lot so I'm going for a grey high contrast screen.
I also used bed sheet, before getting proper screen. The case for me was that light passed through it, then got reflected off the wall or anything that was behind. End result - screen got illuminated from behind. This gives very washed out look, since screen even in dark room wasn't black, thank to light bouncing back.

Now I'm using DIY screen from blackout cloth (I work in a print house and got material cheap) stretched onto wooden frame.

I'm pretty sure your issue comes from temporary screen.
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post #538 of 1870 Old 01-14-2016, 02:07 AM
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Just got my 2040 today, and it's on a FlexiGrey. I have to say, even in my living room, that's all white, and has terrible blinds for "light control" it does blacks a lot better than I thought it would. I was quite worried with how many people were complaining, but heck, it looks great. Even better in 3D. I built a screen out of some remnant from carlofet for less than $30 including all the wood and hardware.

My biggest issue at the moment though is focus. It seems I can only truly focus on half the screen at a time, and when I get the whole screen "in focus" at once, it's hazy rather than as sharp as I can get either side on their own. Is this a normal thing, am I being picky, or have I found a dud? All the text is legible, but I can get it much sharper one side at a time than I can as a whole. There's something of a gap between when the left side is in perfect focus, going to where the right side is. I've moved it all around, changed angles, I have 0 keystone going on, and it's perfectly level shooting at a perfectly level screen. Took me about 5 hours to get just right, but since, and even during I've adjusted the damn focus every 5 minutes thinking that just maybe I can get it. Starting to think I can't.
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post #539 of 1870 Old 01-14-2016, 04:03 AM
 
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Just got my 2040 today, and it's on a FlexiGrey. I have to say, even in my living room, that's all white, and has terrible blinds for "light control" it does blacks a lot better than I thought it would. I was quite worried with how many people were complaining, but heck, it looks great. Even better in 3D. I built a screen out of some remnant from carlofet for less than $30 including all the wood and hardware.

My biggest issue at the moment though is focus. It seems I can only truly focus on half the screen at a time, and when I get the whole screen "in focus" at once, it's hazy rather than as sharp as I can get either side on their own. Is this a normal thing, am I being picky, or have I found a dud? All the text is legible, but I can get it much sharper one side at a time than I can as a whole. There's something of a gap between when the left side is in perfect focus, going to where the right side is. I've moved it all around, changed angles, I have 0 keystone going on, and it's perfectly level shooting at a perfectly level screen. Took me about 5 hours to get just right, but since, and even during I've adjusted the damn focus every 5 minutes thinking that just maybe I can get it. Starting to think I can't.
If you are sure you have mounted or placed it properly relative to the screen you may have received a lemon. I would swap it out. You should be able to achieve uniform focus.
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post #540 of 1870 Old 01-15-2016, 03:19 AM
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I can achieve a uniform focus, it's just not as clear as I can get either side by itself. To my eyes a little blurry, especially compared to when it's sharp, but I also have 20/13 vision. Everything is still legible, and no one but me has noticed. Everyone else has just been enjoying the films I've been playing on it, but I've been reading text. It's quite annoying to have half the screen a tad sharper than the other. I haven't used a projector since I was in college though, so I'm not sure if this is how it's suppose to be, moving focus from one side to the other, or if the image is suppose to come into focus as the whole picture. To me, it makes sense that everything should focus together, especially if the projector is completely square with the screen. If I'm right in thinking that, my lens must be crooked. Even when I purposely placed it a couple feet to either side, I couldn't get the image to focus as one. I'm centering to the lens, not the projector body, right?

Another issue that I've noticed is that while on my table the bottom of my image is completely and totally in line with 0 spill over or gaps; however, the center of the top is half an inch lower than both corners. It didn't really bother me until I turned the projector upside down and tried on a wall with a larger image. That half inch on an 80" screen became 2" at 120" all along the bottom. Very noticeable. Is this common, or is this another thing indicating a defect?

Sorry for all the questions, I really like the projector, I just haven't had one in many years and am not entirely sure if I'm bothered by something that happens with a cheap projector, or if I actually have a defect.
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