The Offical Epson 2040 Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #631 of 1872 Old 01-31-2016, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bobbyc View Post
... I watched 1080i and 720p football past two weekends on directv native and OTA native. I played the same football passes over and over again with all sources and FI off and on. Football looks amazing on this projector with FI off, and even better with it on and set to low. Med and High would distort the football when passed fast... almost like a double image of the football. It did this on both 1080i and 720p, and both OTA and directv locals... so I just keep it on low all the time... except when watching a movie I turn it off. ...
Great input. This matches what I read in professional reviews that the low FI setting helps action sports and general video viewing without producing artifacts while the higher FI settings begin to produce artifacts, and FI is best left off for movies. In addition, one professional revew (ProjectorCentral.com) said moderate use of Image Enhancement actually made the image appear sharper than entry level DLP projectors. Epson was really smart to include these two advanced features on an entry level LCD projector to better compete with DLP.
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post #632 of 1872 Old 01-31-2016, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
Great input. This matches what I read in professional reviews that the low FI setting helps action sports and general video viewing without producing artifacts while the higher FI settings begin to produce artifacts, and FI is best left off for movies. In addition, one professional revew (ProjectorCentral.com) said moderate use of Image Enhancement actually made the image appear sharper than entry level DLP projectors. Epson was really smart to include these two advanced features on an entry level LCD projector to better compete with DLP.
The image enhancement works extremely well with good sources. Newer movies at 1080 look amazing with IE turned up even as far as 60 however I have found that some older transfers such as the Indiana Jones I watched last night while coming as 1080 from Bluray had too much "noise" in large areas of uniform color which is something the IE tends to accentuate. On the other hand, Lord of the Rings with enhancement cranked up looks stunning!

Cheers!
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post #633 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by DrLoad View Post
By "touched up" do you mean altering the panel convergence? I would also like to know if this is possible as I would love to tighten up my image the 1/4 pixel it's out.
Hi, DrLoad . . .

Yes, you can alter / refine your panel if you find there is a bit of misconvergence. Once you find the right dip switch / bit setting to adjust, after enabling the service menu, the projector will give you an LCD panel alignment option in your menu system.

The way it works is that you get a white grid whereby you try to bring all of the panels into the tightest alignment possible. By achieving the whitest grid pattern possible, you have the best overall convergence. One of the LCD's serves are a reference (can't be moved) -- you simply move the other two panels in the best possible way (up, down and / or left, right) until you are certain you've made an improvement. You also will get an option to undo the changes made and do a factory reset of the panel convergence.

This menu is available on more pricey Epson projectors. The fact it isn't included for access on this model doesn't mean that it can't be enabled.

Again, if anyone has had luck of finding which dip switch / bit setting combo works would be appreciated. Note: If you don't know what dip switch / bit setting to change, don't attempt to play around in the service menu. This could give major grief to a 2040 owner . . . it's somewhat similar to going into your computers registry and making random changes.

Thanks!
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post #634 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeger View Post
Hi, DrLoad . . .

Yes, you can alter / refine your panel if you find there is a bit of misconvergence. Once you find the right dip switch / bit setting to adjust, after enabling the service menu, the projector will give you an LCD panel alignment option in your menu system.

The way it works is that you get a white grid whereby you try to bring all of the panels into the tightest alignment possible. By achieving the whitest grid pattern possible, you have the best overall convergence. One of the LCD's serves are a reference (can't be moved) -- you simply move the other two panels in the best possible way (up, down and / or left, right) until you are certain you've made an improvement. You also will get an option to undo the changes made and do a factory reset of the panel convergence.

This menu is available on more pricey Epson projectors. The fact it isn't included for access on this model doesn't mean that it can't be enabled.

Again, if anyone has had luck of finding which dip switch / bit setting combo works would be appreciated. Note: If you don't know what dip switch / bit setting to change, don't attempt to play around in the service menu. This could give major grief to a 2040 owner . . . it's somewhat similar to going into your computers registry and making random changes.

Thanks!
I presume you tested both the 6010/5010 and 3010 setting to enable it?

That sure would be nice to be able to get that half pixel gone!

If someone can get a hold of the service manual it would be ideal.

Imagine a fixed Iris or gamma settings those blacks...

Last edited by The_Forth_Man; 02-01-2016 at 06:57 PM.
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post #635 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeger View Post
Hi, DrLoad . . .

Yes, you can alter / refine your panel if you find there is a bit of misconvergence. Once you find the right dip switch / bit setting to adjust, after enabling the service menu, the projector will give you an LCD panel alignment option in your menu system.

The way it works is that you get a white grid whereby you try to bring all of the panels into the tightest alignment possible. By achieving the whitest grid pattern possible, you have the best overall convergence. One of the LCD's serves are a reference (can't be moved) -- you simply move the other two panels in the best possible way (up, down and / or left, right) until you are certain you've made an improvement. You also will get an option to undo the changes made and do a factory reset of the panel convergence.

This menu is available on more pricey Epson projectors. The fact it isn't included for access on this model doesn't mean that it can't be enabled.

Again, if anyone has had luck of finding which dip switch / bit setting combo works would be appreciated. Note: If you don't know what dip switch / bit setting to change, don't attempt to play around in the service menu. This could give major grief to a 2040 owner . . . it's somewhat similar to going into your computers registry and making random changes.

Thanks!
I used to do the same thing through the service menu of my Toshiba crt rear projection set many, many years ago, i had no clue it was possible on lower end lcd projectors though. Guess it's time to start digging around online. Have you tried searching using the European model number for the 2040/45 (something like tw5100/tw5300)?

Thanks for the heads up!

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Forth_Man View Post
I presume you tested both the 6010/5010 and 3010 setting to enable it?

That sure would be nice to be able to get that half pixel gone!

If someone can get a hold of the service menu it would be ideal.

Imagine a fixed Iris or gamma settings those blacks...
Now you're talking! My 1/4 pixel convergence doesn't really bug me but manual iris control or gamma adjust would be amazing!

Man I love this forum

Last edited by DrLoad; 02-01-2016 at 11:04 AM.
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post #636 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Forth_Man View Post
If someone can get a hold of the service menu it would be ideal.
You can access DIP switches as in other Epson projectors (attached images from EH-TW5350):

Quote:
1. Switch on the PJ

2. Press and hold the Menu-Button for 8 sec.

3. Press the ESC-Button twice

Now a new Window with Informations about the Beamer appears. With the
"Arrow-right" and "Arrow-left"-Button you can see several other Information-Windows.

4. Press again the Menu-Button for 8 sec.
5. Press again the ESC-Button twice.

Now a new Windows appears. On the left side you see 6 lines named
"DIP-SW1" to "DIP-SW 6".
I don't think I'll risk myself with searching for the right bit to unlock the some additional menus. You can search at your own risk other Epson threads e.g. 3010.
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post #637 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post
You can access DIP switches as in other Epson projectors (attached images from EH-TW5350):

I don't think I'll risk myself with searching for the right bit to unlock the some additional menus. You can search at your own risk other Epson threads e.g. 3010.
Thanks but I actually meant to write "SERVICE MANUAL" as in the book used by the clerks in the back shop

Sorry about that. I actually already knew how to access that menu. I dont fancy killing my PJ just yet but If we had access to the REAL codes then hell yeah I would enable those menus
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post #638 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Forth_Man View Post
Thanks but I actually meant to write "SERVICE MANUAL" as in the book used by the clerks in the back shop

Sorry about that. I actually already knew how to access that menu. I dont fancy killing my PJ just yet but If we had access to the REAL codes then hell yeah I would enable those menus
I got bit drunk tonight and I've story to tell. I upgraded firmware on EH-TW5350 from version v1.02 using HC2045 images for v1.03, grabbed firmware from here: http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/s...noteoid=289381

Why I even risked it? I did run few checksums (SHA-216) on both European and US firmwares for the same models of Epson projectors and they seem to be identical. Still it was scary process - fans are running are full speed when in update mode, update took longer than instruction suggested.

I attached images from before update and after the update.

But it is just me, you will risk warranty on your PJ doing it. Maybe I'll play with DIP switches tomorrow more (and it ain't dip-sw6 bit 5).
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post #639 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post
I got bit drunk tonight and I've story to tell. I upgraded firmware on EH-TW5350 from version v1.02 using HC2045 images for v1.03, grabbed firmware from here: http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/s...noteoid=289381

Why I even risked it? I did run few checksums (SHA-216) on both European and US firmwares for the same models of Epson projectors and they seem to be identical. Still it was scary process - fans are running are full speed when in update mode, update took longer than instruction suggested.

I attached images from before update and after the update.

But it is just me, you will risk warranty on your PJ doing it. Maybe I'll play with DIP switches tomorrow more (and it ain't dip-sw6 bit 5).
Ahahah your my kind of drunk, reminds me when I decided to open my macbook pro to remove the cradle and put 2 ssd a 2 O'clock after a 2 bottle of wine while sipping on a cognac with my brother in law. My wife was PISSED (and that's a understatement ) 3 years latter I'm still working with that laptop.

Do we know what changed in the updated firmware ?? any new menus /options??


Also risking warranty applying a updated firmware available trough the manufacturer I doubt that would fly with the Canadian protection agency. In Quebec we even have a great law that states that if a products fails within the average amount of working time expected of it during normal usage it should be warrantied I.E Dishwasher are 1 year by manufacturer here but they should last at least 5 years in average so by law your covered 5 years. (you have to go through the protection agency and probably dont get 100% back but still) It's not that simple but that's the gist of it.

And more when you buy electronics and stuff there obligated by law to tell you about that (most stores dont and they get fined but they still make more money on extra coverage warranty).

Playing in DIP menu that would void warranty tho I'm pretty sure.
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post #640 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Forth_Man View Post
Do we know what changed in the updated firmware ?? any new menus /options??
I didn't spot new menus or options (Epson didn't release any change logs I'm aware of). I wouldn't be surprised if it has something to do with auto iris - but I don't think I'll have time to check that this weekend.

btw. Could you check version on your PJ? Four last numbers/letters indicate version AFAIK.
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post #641 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post
I didn't spot new menus or options (Epson didn't release any change logs I'm aware of). I wouldn't be surprised if it has something to do with auto iris - but I don't think I'll have time to check that this weekend.

btw. Could you check version on your PJ? Four last numbers/letters indicate version AFAIK.
exactly the same has your first version v102 and video2 his also 102

Iris would be good but I'd really hope for Gamma It's one of the only sub 1000$ in the favorites here on AVS that doesn't seem to have it.
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post #642 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 08:02 PM
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exactly the same has your first version v102 and video2 his also 102

Iris would be good but I'd really hope for Gamma It's one of the only sub 1000$ in the favorites here on AVS that doesn't seem to have it.
Thanks for information. I'll examine it more tomorrow. Myself of all options I would wish for manual iris settings, but it is probably way too far fetched. I need some sleep right now, so nothing new I could write about tonight. As for DIP software switches, I have spotted some other threads, where people were calm about it - warranty wasn't an issue (yet I could be mistaken).
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post #643 of 1872 Old 02-01-2016, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post
Thanks for information. I'll examine it more tomorrow. Myself of all options I would wish for manual iris settings, but it is probably way too far fetched. I need some sleep right now, so nothing new I could write about tonight. As for DIP software switches, I have spotted some other threads, where people were calm about it - warranty wasn't an issue (yet I could be mistaken).
Manual Iris would be really hard to beat at this price but I dont think well get it without messing around if it can be done.

Hope to here from you with good news soon

Good night and dont forget 2 aspirins and a tall glass of water
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I wonder what the odds are that the 2040 has the same dip switch layout as the 2030? I'd be willing to bet these models have way more in common than they do differences. Also, it would probably be easier to track down the service manual for the 2030 due to how long it's been in circulation.
Just a thought.
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post #645 of 1872 Old 02-02-2016, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DrLoad View Post
I wonder what the odds are that the 2040 has the same dip switch layout as the 2030? I'd be willing to bet these models have way more in common than they do differences. Also, it would probably be easier to track down the service manual for the 2030 due to how long it's been in circulation.
Just a thought.
Most recent I could find online was eh-tw4500 that's a whole different beast.

I think that the chance of finding either one online are more than slim.
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Hey! Can someone please tell me this question; is it any difference between HDMI Normal and Extended? I use 52 in Normal and 40 in Extended. Do I lose shadows or something like that if I go with Extended?

I have a Nvidia graphic in my PC. If I have read it all right I should use RGB 0-255 with nvidia and 16-235 in everything else. Most of the time I see movies in Kodi, and a little with Plex, and there I should go with 16-235?

Thanks!

Skickat från min SM-G920F via Tapatalk

Last edited by westbergjoakim; 02-02-2016 at 03:33 PM.
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post #647 of 1872 Old 02-02-2016, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westbergjoakim View Post
Hey! Can someone please tell me this question; is it any difference between HDMI Normal and Extended? I use 52 in Normal and 40 in Extended. Do I lose shadows or something like that if I go with Extended?

I have a Nvidia graphic in my PC. If I have read it all right I should use RGB 0-255 with nvidia and 16-235 in everything else. Most of the time I see movies in Kodi, and a little with Plex, and there I should go with 16-235?

Thanks!

Skickat från min SM-G920F via Tapatalk
It's my understanding that android devices and PCs both output the same signal so you would want to keep extended on all the time. As far as I can tell the only sources that would require going from extended to normal are if you are coming from a stand alone DVD player or cable box. I've tried running in all 3 mode; normal, normal with super white and extended and the extended looks way better in all cases (all media was delivered via my PC).

cheers!
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post #648 of 1872 Old 02-02-2016, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by westbergjoakim View Post
Hey! Can someone please tell me this question; is it any difference between HDMI Normal and Extended? I use 52 in Normal and 40 in Extended. Do I lose shadows or something like that if I go with Extended?

I have a Nvidia graphic in my PC. If I have read it all right I should use RGB 0-255 with nvidia and 16-235 in everything else. Most of the time I see movies in Kodi, and a little with Plex, and there I should go with 16-235?
If I understand, you are using only PC as your video input? Then go with RGB 0-255 and HDMI Extended - there is no reason to change it.

What is important is matching what are you sending and what projector expects to receive. If you set RGB 0-255 on PC (which is HDMI Extended) and set signal to HDMI Normal on PJ, edge colors will be clipped, resulting in very dark image. Opposite situation, when you set PC to RGB 16-235 (HDMI Normal) and set signal to HDMI Extended on PJ - border values will be stretched, resulting in very washed out image.

You could also set RGB 16-235 on PC and HDMI Normal on PJ, which is valid (it is mostly reserved for dedicated Blu-ray players or other devices, since those output colors in limited HDMI mode by default in most cases). Still I could see more contrast, when using RGB 0-255 and HDMI Extended. Hope this helps - you can launch some dark scene from a film and play with settings, this way you can compare image quality.


btw. I made some comparisons between DIP switch settings for different projectors (values provided by members of this forum in other threads) - see the attachment. Epson EH-TW9000 didn't give access to LCD alignment menu by default, but comparing that to Epson 6010 only one bit was set differently - and that was the trick to accessing it.

Now when it comes to EH-TW5350 (European version of 2045), it has more DIP switches - eight instead of six seen in other projectors. My guess it has something to do with wifi, bluetooth, screen sharing and few other features (please correct if I'm wrong here - to my understanding no earlier Epson projector had this features). Second switch looks also completely different - no bits are set on EH-TW5350. Question is: are there any hidden menus on this PJ and what bits to set in order to access them?

Would be great if someone could compare that to 2040 or 2045 with working bluetooth audio output etc (and provide info if they are the same or post photo if they are indeed different).
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Last edited by ptmelville; 02-02-2016 at 04:21 PM.
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post #649 of 1872 Old 02-02-2016, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post
If I understand, you are using only PC as your video input? Then go with RGB 0-255 and HDMI Extended - there is no reason to change it.

What is important is matching what are you sending and what projector expects to receive. If you set RGB 0-255 on PC (which is HDMI Extended) and set signal to HDMI Normal on PJ, edge colors will be clipped, resulting in very dark image. Opposite situation, when you set PC to RGB 16-235 (HDMI Normal) and set signal to HDMI Extended on PJ - border values will be stretched, resulting in very washed out image.

You could also set RGB 16-235 on PC and HDMI Normal on PJ, which is valid (it is mostly reserved for dedicated Blu-ray players or other devices, since those output colors in limited HDMI mode by default in most cases). Still I could see more contrast, when using RGB 0-255 and HDMI Extended. Hope this helps - you can launch some dark scene from a film and play with settings, this way you can compare image quality.
I have my PC hooked to AVR and from the AVR to my projector. I'm also using a blu-ray and Dreambox. Everything with HDMI.

Thanks! You are the first one to tell what the different hdmi modes should go witj. Much easier! What settings should I use with the blu-ray and Dreambox? Normal?

Should I go with 0-255 in Kodi and Plex or change that to 16-235?

If I change the brightness, is that bad for the picture? I think it's to bright with 50, much better with around 40. What do you say? ☺

Last edited by westbergjoakim; 02-02-2016 at 05:05 PM.
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post #650 of 1872 Old 02-02-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by westbergjoakim View Post
I have my PC hooked to AVR and from the AVR to my projector. I'm also using a blu-ray and Dreambox. Everything with HDMI.

Thanks! You are the first one to tell what the different hdmi modes should go witj. Much easier! What settings should I use with the blu-ray and Dreambox? Normal?

Should I go with 0-255 in Kodi and Plex or change that to 16-235?

If I change the brightness, is that bad for the picture? I think it's to bright with 50, much better with around 40. What do you say? ☺
You know in the grand scheme of things, it all boils down to personal preferences.

Some people look for absolute truth (director intentions), some just want to look at the best picture possible.

Go with what YOU like wether it's good or bad depends on you.

My sisters familly hate my calibrated Plasma and love their sharp Aquos LED on dynamic witch I can't stand. so beauty really is in the eye of the beholder.

To answer your previous question straight on. from what I understand you only have 1 cable from the AVR to the PJ??

you can set each input individually so you'll have to run 2 hdmi from the AVR to the PJ the first one for the PC and the second one for everything else.

PC---- hdmi extended 0-255 (KODI PLEX AND EVERYTHING SENT BY THE PC)
everything else---- hdmi normal 16-235

you can set each input individually so you'll have to run 2 hdmi from the AVR to the PJ the first one for the PC and the second one for everything else.

Normal or extended is not content related but player related hope it's clearer
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post #651 of 1872 Old 02-02-2016, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post
btw. I made some comparisons between DIP switch settings for different projectors (values provided by members of this forum in other threads) - see the attachment. Epson EH-TW9000 didn't give access to LCD alignment menu by default, but comparing that to Epson 6010 only one bit was set differently - and that was the trick to accessing it.

Now when it comes to EH-TW5350 (European version of 2045), it has more DIP switches - eight instead of six seen in other projectors. My guess it has something to do with wifi, bluetooth, screen sharing and few other features (please correct if I'm wrong here - to my understanding no earlier Epson projector had this features). Second switch looks also completely different - no bits are set on EH-TW5350. Question is: are there any hidden menus on this PJ and what bits to set in order to access them?

Would be great if someone could compare that to 2040 or 2045 with working bluetooth audio output etc (and provide info if they are the same or post photo if they are indeed different).

Did you figure out what changed with the new firmware?
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post #652 of 1872 Old 02-02-2016, 05:44 PM
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Did you figure out what changed with the new firmware?
Nope I didn't play any content yet. I've some feeling, although it is hard to compare and I bet this is placebo effect - image seems to be sharper. Just don't take my word for it.

Still there is small victory. I decided to active bits 2-6 for SW2, SW5, SW7 and SW8 separately. I didn't see any new menus beside SW7 - one of bits from two to six unlocked option to choose bluetooth audio. It is region locked (licensing problems Epson?) as stated by manual (I mentioned this earlier). I was able to pair my headphones and receive audio this way directly from PJ. Obligatory images attached

Just need to narrow which bit is responsible for bluetooth.

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Originally Posted by westbergjoakim View Post
If I change the brightness, is that bad for the picture? I think it's to bright with 50, much better with around 40. What do you say? ☺
Brightness probably depends more on a setup than any other setting - what screen size, what dot gain your screen has, how many lamp hours? If you got new projector (especially under 100 lamp hours), screen with positive dot gain, screen that isn't too big (bellow 120 inches) and taking into account that Epson 2040 is very bright already, turning brightness down can provide a way more better experience. In the end it is up to you.
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Last edited by ptmelville; 02-02-2016 at 05:54 PM.
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post #653 of 1872 Old 02-02-2016, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post
Nope I didn't play any content yet. I've some feeling, although it is hard to compare and I bet this is placebo effect - image seems to be sharper. Just don't take my word for it.

Still there is small victory. I decided to active bits 2-6 for SW2, SW5, SW7 and SW8 separately. I didn't see any new menus beside SW7 - one of bits from two to six unlocked option to choose bluetooth audio. It is region locked (licensing problems Epson?) as stated by manual (I mentioned this earlier). I was able to pair my headphones and receive audio this way directly from PJ. Obligatory images attached

Just need to narrow which bit is responsible for bluetooth.



Somebody had a busy day

Good to know... and that's for the 2040 or 2045?
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post #654 of 1872 Old 02-02-2016, 06:13 PM
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Good to know... and that's for the 2040 or 2045?
EH-TW5350 (European version of 2045), still I wouldn't be surprised if the same was true for 2040. Correct if I'm wrong, but 3D RF glasses are using bluetooth by default? At least this is my exploitation, bluetooth was always there, just for glasses - and audio transmission (licensing for some bluetooth standard in some regions costs more?) is region locked.

Time to get some sleep.
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post #655 of 1872 Old 02-02-2016, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post
EH-TW5350 (European version of 2045), still I wouldn't be surprised if the same was true for 2040. Correct if I'm wrong, but 3D RF glasses are using bluetooth by default? At least this is my exploitation, bluetooth was always there, just for glasses - and audio transmission (licensing for some bluetooth standard in some regions costs more?) is region locked.

Time to get some sleep.
Well I didnt have bluetooth in the menu before. It's now showing. :roll eyes:

I just dowloaded the EU version of the user guide... It's clearly not the same as the Canadian one!

There not even a mention of bluetooth in the NA version. But it's clearly there. Someday companies will stop taking us for complete idiots.... Yeah someday (maybe)

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post #656 of 1872 Old 02-03-2016, 02:42 AM
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Well I didnt have bluetooth in the menu before. It's now showing. :roll eyes:

I just dowloaded the EU version of the user guide... It's clearly not the same as the Canadian one!

There not even a mention of bluetooth in the NA version. But it's clearly there. Someday companies will stop taking us for complete idiots.... Yeah someday (maybe)
Did you change bits in DIP SW7? If so did you figure out which one is responsible for bluetooth? I activated bits from 2 to 6, since I didn't have time to investigate it further - running projector with unknown bits switched on, doesn't sound like a good idea. Were you able to pair bluetooth device?

Some companies take for us idiots - just short story. Epson wasn't my first choice, I was reading about LG PF1500. Turns out Korean version has all the bells and whistles, American version is lacking 3D, then European is completely different beast - it has 3D, but it uses different electronics, lacks FI and they were reports of lumens slashed in half compared to US version. Not only that, but when you compare prices, European version costs the most.

btw. Epson EH-TW5300/EH-TW5350/EH-TW5200 share the same documentation - translating this into US models: 2040/2045/2030. I wouldn't be surprised if you could unlock bluetooth audio on 2030 also, or even on 2000, since both models share the same firmware according to page I linked few posts ago (Epson site with list of firmware updates for projectors).
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post #657 of 1872 Old 02-03-2016, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post
Did you change bits in DIP SW7? If so did you figure out which one is responsible for bluetooth? I activated bits from 2 to 6, since I didn't have time to investigate it further - running projector with unknown bits switched on, doesn't sound like a good idea. Were you able to pair bluetooth device?

Some companies take for us idiots - just short story. Epson wasn't my first choice, I was reading about LG PF1500. Turns out Korean version has all the bells and whistles, American version is lacking 3D, then European is completely different beast - it has 3D, but it uses different electronics, lacks FI and they were reports of lumens slashed in half compared to US version. Not only that, but when you compare prices, European version costs the most.

btw. Epson EH-TW5300/EH-TW5350/EH-TW5200 share the same documentation - translating this into US models: 2040/2045/2030. I wouldn't be surprised if you could unlock bluetooth audio on 2030 also, or even on 2000, since both models share the same firmware according to page I linked few posts ago (Epson site with list of firmware updates for projectors).
I activated bits 2 to 7 last night just to see if I could replicate what you did.

Processing all BITS one by one this morning. Turn out I started on the wrong side... I chose to start by turning them all off except bit 7 then 6, and so on.... turns out its BIT 2


so DIP-SW 7 BIT 2 - on position 1 turn on bluetooth hidden menu.


My guess regarding the structures of the menu is that it could be more complicated than that. They probably follow a condition protocol where IF DIP 5 bit 2 is on 1 and DIP 7 bit 5 is also on 1 then make this happen. Thats probably why they can hide menus like this. If it was a simple on and off thing then we could simply turn everything to on and be blessed with all the hidden goodies that are supposed to be only on the higher priced brothers.

It would make sense for them on a manufacturer/ money stand point to use a lot of the same parts when they can. It would also make a lot of sense to use the same base firmware and then tweak it to the various different component. You save a LOT of money that way.

Regarding the 2000/2030 I would be curious to look at their DIP setting too Frame Interpolation and Image enhancement might be Unlock-able if there only firmware related and not linked to mechanical parts. I think that their processor aren't probably strong enough tho.

All of this is just hypothetical I'm thinking aloud here
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post #658 of 1872 Old 02-03-2016, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ptmelville View Post
I attached images from before update and after the update.
Is it 58 or 59 after you did the fireware? I have the euroversion but I can't find any new updates. I'm not at home but I think I got the 58.
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post #659 of 1872 Old 02-03-2016, 07:44 AM
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Is it 58 or 59 after you did the fireware? I have the euroversion but I can't find any new updates. I'm not at home but I think I got the 58.
He also has the EU version but et has the 5350 witch would be 2045 in NA.

he had the EU firmware but he upgraded with the NA version that had a new version out.

So that's probably why the 58 turned to 59. the firmware version his the last 3 numbers 102 vs 103.

1.03 or 103 is the most recent NA version.

the 58 / 59 could be region numbers I have a 2040 (NA) and have 59 starting serial number also.

Upgrading with a FIRMWARE that hasn't been released in your region MIGHT (i doubt it but still) void your warranty.

EDIT: upon verification my MAIN firmware is 580075647WWWV102 the VIDEO2 is 59l27WMV102 disregard region code it doesn't seem related.

Last edited by The_Forth_Man; 02-03-2016 at 09:20 AM.
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Important disclaimer

ANY MODS ATTEMPTED BY YOU ARE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

I, NOR ANYONE (THAT IS SANE AT LEAST), AND ESPECIALLY THIS FORUM. SUGGEST IN ANY WAY THAT YOU PROCEED TO SUCH MODS OR UPGRADES THAT YOU ARE NOT FULLY PREPARED TO TAKE THE RISK FOR.

MAKING CHANGES IN DEVICES IS NOT RISK FREE.

NO ONE CAN BE ACCOUNTABLE FOR THE CHOICE YOU MAKE.

I just thought I'd refresh memories.

Now that it's out of the way....Have fun!
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