The Offical Epson 2040 Thread - Page 43 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1261 of 1872 Old 08-22-2016, 12:28 PM
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So I'm not sure what I'm looking at here. It only shows up on white or other lighter colors. Also, I have two areas, one green with 3 pixels and one magenta with two pixels. Logically it seems like in these areas, there are dead sub-pixels but it seems unlikely you'd have two sub-pixels die on the pixel leaving only one color remaining.

Help?

Is this really just a stuck pixel and I can perhaps run it overnight with a video and it may fix itself...or no?
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post #1262 of 1872 Old 08-22-2016, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aasoror View Post
No they don't, the only hidden menu discovered so far is BT audio menu and this can be enabled be setting bit 2 on DIP switch 7 from 0 to 1.
np, fact is no one can tell for sure, each DIP switch has 256 possible values (with DIP switches 3,5,7 and 8 completely zeroed) and no one has (yet) gone through all possible values for each switch (or at least the zeroed ones) to see which is which.
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post #1263 of 1872 Old 08-22-2016, 02:38 PM
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That's a dust blob.
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post #1264 of 1872 Old 08-22-2016, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonsong View Post
That's a dust blob.
I paused the individual frames of the stuck pixels video. Here is the big offender. It doesn't show up on blue or green - only red.

Does dust really only affect one color? It seems like it's a dead red sub-pixel; no? (Though, the fact that it bleeds into multiple pixels does make me question that theory)

How to clean dust blob? Possible?
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post #1265 of 1872 Old 08-22-2016, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Shane M View Post
... Does dust really only affect one color? ...
An LCD projector has 3 separate panels -- one for blue, one for green and one for red. The projector converges the three primary colors into a full color image. Dust on any one of the panels will show up in the converged image. But if you illuminate each panel one at a time you'll only see the dust on the color of the panel where the dust is sitting.

It appears that you have a dust blob covering one full pixel and parts of adjacent pixels on your red panel.
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post #1266 of 1872 Old 08-22-2016, 03:25 PM
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OK, so how would I go about cleaning it?
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post #1267 of 1872 Old 08-22-2016, 03:46 PM
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I've never experienced a dust blob so I can't tell you how to clean it. But others have and I'm sure they'll give you some good advice.
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post #1268 of 1872 Old 08-22-2016, 06:42 PM
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OK, so how would I go about cleaning it?
I would have a pro look at it. Other wise you will make it worse.
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post #1269 of 1872 Old 08-22-2016, 07:20 PM
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I would have a pro look at it. Other wise you will make it worse.
Okay, then I guess I'm exchanging it. Blah. Thanks all, for your help.
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post #1270 of 1872 Old 08-26-2016, 07:53 PM
 
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Since the settings doesn't have a graph image to see if my image is straight what else can I try?
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post #1271 of 1872 Old 08-27-2016, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by sndr15 View Post
Since the settings doesn't have a graph image to see if my image is straight what else can I try?
To see if a projector image is straight on a screen, the simplest method is to zoom a bright image slightly smaller than the black border area of the screen and eyeball that the top, bottom and sides of the image are all parallel with the top, bottom and sides where the screen image area meets the black border. If it's off a tiny bit you might not even notice it when you zoom back to full screen as whatever tiny portion of the image falls on the black border should be absorbed and not visible.
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post #1272 of 1872 Old 08-27-2016, 03:35 PM
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I made this little jobbo from a solder sucker and cut spray tube. My Epson use to get dust blobs. You have to take the top off the pj and while running spray air down into the lcd panel till the blob goes away. You don't want to use high pressure air from a can. Dust blob can pop up at anytime so make this little spray thing and keep it around.
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post #1273 of 1872 Old 08-27-2016, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sndr15 View Post
Since the settings doesn't have a graph image to see if my image is straight what else can I try?
There is a pattern button on the remote that would display a grid to help aiming and framing.
I usually have the white lines right on the edge so slight edge is on the black felt part of the screen.
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post #1274 of 1872 Old 08-30-2016, 06:01 AM
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Epson 2040/Monoprice Switch Issue?

First post. My apologies if I screw up the protocol here. I have an issue with my setup and I'm curious if anyone has experienced the same or has any suggestions. Here is my setup:

Epson 2040 Projector (ceiling mounted, Monoprice Select Active Series HDMI cable 40 ft.)
Samsung BDJ5900 Blu ray player (Monoprice Select Series High Speed HDMI cable 3 ft.)
Xfinity X1 cable box (Monoprice Select Series High Speed HDMI cable 3 ft.)
Sonos Playbar
Monoprice 4x1 switch w/Toslink

The problem I am having is on startup. Every time I power everything on, I have to turn on projector, then switch, then cable box (or DVD) to make sure everything is shaking hands. Most of the time it works, but I have to do it in order, quickly, and sometimes (if it doesn't work) multiple times. On top of that, the blu ray (HDMI port 2 on the switch) has no power indicators, so if it turns on automatically and the handshake doesn't happen quickly with the cable box (HDMI port 1 on the switch), I have to go through the whole cycle again. In fact, I have gotten to where I keep the Blu ray unplugged from the switch to avoid this.

When all of this works, it's great. It's just a pain to have to do all of this when the switch is supposed to help sort this out. I feel like the source of the problem is the switch as I have tried to connect directly to the projector with the cable box and dvd with no problem. I talked to Monoprice and while they were nice, they were not much help in solving the issue--chalking it up mainly to handshake problems. Is there a better option for the switch? Could it be something else? Is there a player that works better with the switch than the Samsung players and still provides access to apps like VUDU, Hulu, etc.?

Thanks in advance!
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post #1275 of 1872 Old 08-30-2016, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane M View Post
OK, so how would I go about cleaning it?
I followed this advice on my other Epson and it worked well. I'd guess that it would be similar with the 2040, but I haven't opened mine up. Just go slow. Good luck.

https://www.avforums.com/threads/eps...1549172/page-9
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post #1276 of 1872 Old 08-30-2016, 03:35 PM
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While I'm here, does anyone have suggestion on a good, adjustable ceiling mount for my 2045? I'll need about a 20" drop, maybe less. My screen is already mounted, so some horizontal leeway would be great.
Thanks...
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post #1277 of 1872 Old 08-30-2016, 03:39 PM
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Hey!

I have a Pioneer Elite SC-95 together with Epson HC 2040. If I change to 4k/24p on my reciever, does that make the moviepicture better in any way?

Have a computer hooked to the SC-95 aswell. When I watch a movie trough it, and have the reciever on 4k/24p, is it possible to make it showing smooth with computer set to 24hz? Anyway else I can do this if it now provide a better picture?

Thanks!

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post #1278 of 1872 Old 08-31-2016, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by PeterDoubt View Post
I followed this advice on my other Epson and it worked well. I'd guess that it would be similar with the 2040, but I haven't opened mine up. Just go slow. Good luck.

https://www.avforums.com/threads/eps...1549172/page-9
Unfortunately the main board (B0900) is not as easily accessible on the 2040
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post #1279 of 1872 Old 08-31-2016, 11:32 AM
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the 2040 is not 4k capable, you need to feed it 1080/24p for movie content (set your source PC not your AVR). Also if you have "smoothness" issues, make sure you have CFI disabled and any other post processing settings.


Quote:
Originally Posted by westbergjoakim View Post
Hey!

I have a Pioneer Elite SC-95 together with Epson HC 2040. If I change to 4k/24p on my reciever, does that make the moviepicture better in any way?

Have a computer hooked to the SC-95 aswell. When I watch a movie trough it, and have the reciever on 4k/24p, is it possible to make it showing smooth with computer set to 24hz? Anyway else I can do this if it now provide a better picture?

Thanks!

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post #1280 of 1872 Old 08-31-2016, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Covington View Post
The problem I am having is on startup. Every time I power everything on, I have to turn on projector, then switch, then cable box (or DVD) to make sure everything is shaking hands. Most of the time it works, but I have to do it in order, quickly, and sometimes (if it doesn't work) multiple times.
I suggest you replace the switch, and use a separate HDMI/toslink audio extractor for your sonos.
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post #1281 of 1872 Old 08-31-2016, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by aasoror View Post
the 2040 is not 4k capable, you need to feed it 1080/24p for movie content (set your source PC not your AVR). Also if you have "smoothness" issues, make sure you have CFI disabled and any other post processing settings.
Yes, i know its only capable with 1080p. But it wont do any difference at all with the reciever set to 4k? I get a picture with it.

Almost the whole time works good, except some miliseconds here and there when it get jidder or what it's called in 4k/24. But with it set to 1080p/24, it will get more "cinemalike"?

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post #1282 of 1872 Old 08-31-2016, 12:44 PM
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But it wont do any difference at all with the reciever set to 4k?
Nope it wont, actually the 2040 can't even accept (and downscale) 4k signal, so even if you have it set to at your AVR chances are it will downscale to 1080p before sending it to the 2040 (since at handshake that 2040 will negotiate the accepted input resolutions with the AVR and will let it know it can only handle signals up to 1080p).
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except some miliseconds here and there when it get jidder or what it's called in 4k/24. But with it set to 1080p/24, it will get more "cinemalike"?
- Set your PC to 1080/24p and disable CFI on the projector and you will get "film"-like effect (smooth but fuzzy during action scenes) .
- Set your PC to 1080/24p and enable CFI on the projector and you will get "tv"-like effect (soap opera: sharp but with occasional judder during panning scenes).
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post #1283 of 1872 Old 08-31-2016, 01:52 PM
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Unfortunately the main board (B0900) is not as easily accessible on the 2040
Thanks for clarifying that...sure hope I don't get any dust blobs on this one.

Any ideas on a ceiling mount?
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post #1284 of 1872 Old 09-02-2016, 08:10 AM
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Hopefully this helps someone. I was faced with needing a very low profile ceiling mount (less than 3"). I couldn't find one, so I made one myself. I bought rare earth magnets with 4mm threaded posts that go directly into the mounting holes of the 2045. Then I used wall anchors and threaded thumb screws from McMaster Carr that provide a nice flat steel surface for the magnets to stick to. In a perfect world, I have 73 pounds of pull force holding it up, but it's probably a bit less than that. It holds QUITE well, and needs to be pulled sideways in order to take off (not directly down). There is sufficient slop for minor adjustments as needed (translation, rotation, and pitch and yaw).

The magnets should not affect the LCD, although it was possible it could affect the fan motor, etc. The map of the magnetic field of these magnets shows dissipation of the field to less than 750 Gauss at 0.25" distance, so I felt confident it should not pose any issues long-term.

It only works for me because I'm nearly straight on with my screen and the ceiling is low in this area, but perhaps it will work for others or inspire them to do something similar. I love how low profile and clean it looks!

Magnets: https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MM-C-16 and https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MM-C-20

Steel thumb screws: http://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screw...4e8zf8islwc954
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post #1285 of 1872 Old 09-02-2016, 12:34 PM
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Interested in this projector, I am looking for a rear projected picture size of 150"-170". Anyone know if this projector is good for something that big? Seems I've seem some discussion that led me to believe that it's better for shorter throws. Thx.
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post #1286 of 1872 Old 09-02-2016, 01:48 PM
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Interested in this projector, I am looking for a rear projected picture size of 150"-170". Anyone know if this projector is good for something that big? Seems I've seem some discussion that led me to believe that it's better for shorter throws. Thx.
At that size I would recommend something a bit bigger.
You are gonna be running at full power all the time projecting that size and it's gonna be annoying.
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post #1287 of 1872 Old 09-02-2016, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane M View Post
Hopefully this helps someone. I was faced with needing a very low profile ceiling mount (less than 3"). I couldn't find one, so I made one myself. I bought rare earth magnets with 4mm threaded posts that go directly into the mounting holes of the 2045. Then I used wall anchors and threaded thumb screws from McMaster Carr that provide a nice flat steel surface for the magnets to stick to. In a perfect world, I have 73 pounds of pull force holding it up, but it's probably a bit less than that. It holds QUITE well, and needs to be pulled sideways in order to take off (not directly down). There is sufficient slop for minor adjustments as needed (translation, rotation, and pitch and yaw).

The magnets should not affect the LCD, although it was possible it could affect the fan motor, etc. The map of the magnetic field of these magnets shows dissipation of the field to less than 750 Gauss at 0.25" distance, so I felt confident it should not pose any issues long-term.

It only works for me because I'm nearly straight on with my screen and the ceiling is low in this area, but perhaps it will work for others or inspire them to do something similar. I love how low profile and clean it looks!

Magnets: https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MM-C-16 and https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MM-C-20

Steel thumb screws: http://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screw...4e8zf8islwc954
Kinda scary knowing it's not solid on the ceiling.
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post #1288 of 1872 Old 09-02-2016, 02:17 PM
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Kinda scary knowing it's not solid on the ceiling.
Yes and no. I mean, I can't hang on it, but it's so solid that it requires a significant amount of force to pull off. I have to be careful to remove it in such a way that I'm not worried about pulling the anchors out of the drywall. I think that's solid enough.
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post #1289 of 1872 Old 09-02-2016, 03:40 PM
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At that size I would recommend something a bit bigger.
You are gonna be running at full power all the time projecting that size and it's gonna be annoying.
Annoying in noisy? Or hard on the eyes? Just checking, I'm a rookie. Never had one before, but I'm stoked to get one. My thought is bigger is better, that may not be accurate. Watching football games on a huge screen is what I think I want. Too much? I have a large basement living room....14' wide wall...any input appreciated. By bigger, you mean? Have a suggestion? Have to move to a higher end projector? thanks.
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post #1290 of 1872 Old 09-02-2016, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdbrett View Post
Annoying in noisy? Or hard on the eyes? Just checking, I'm a rookie. Never had one before, but I'm stoked to get one. My thought is bigger is better, that may not be accurate. Watching football games on a huge screen is what I think I want. Too much? I have a large basement living room....14' wide wall...any input appreciated. By bigger, you mean? Have a suggestion? Have to move to a higher end projector? thanks.
Yes. it will be very loud unless your speakers are at high volume.
What's your viewing distance? Bigger is not always better.
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