Official BenQ HT2050/W1110 Owner/Settings Thread - Page 55 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1621 of 1670 Old 11-20-2018, 06:02 AM
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Official BenQ HT2050/W1110 Owner/Settings Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
This is really helpful for getting close enough, that's why I prefer to figure it out like that first, mount the PJ, then temp the screen just to make sure you do not need any keystone adjustments…….with lens shift, many times you can get close enough with the calculators.







But many of us with large screens in small rooms like to push the max on height to get the largest screen possible and not be too low...….in this case you want the lowest profile ceiling mount possible.





Just remember to not max it out , leave just a little adjustment for later as once you zoom and fiddle you will more than likely have to raise or lower the lens shift slightly....you can push it, just not max it or you might have to take down the screen for a 1/4 inch....


See that’s where I’m coming from, I have 87” to work with on my screen wall, my subs are 24” tall and 120” screen will be 63.5”! The borders are 2.75, so the nets me another 5.5”.so if I mount screen at 21.25” from the floor, that will leave me with exactly 5” from the ceiling to the viewing portion of the screen! Is that enough? The projector is 4.1” tall, so if i put the projector flush on the ceiling,assuming the center of lens is 2” from the top of the projector, that should give me about 2.9” from ceil to visible screen? Is that within the offset parameters. In the manual it says the lowest offset is 75 mm which is 2.95 “ so I’m assuming I’m close enough or is .05 going to be a big deal?


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Last edited by kelly.mcaloney; 11-20-2018 at 06:07 AM.
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post #1622 of 1670 Old 11-20-2018, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelly.mcaloney View Post
See that’s where I’m coming from, I have 87” to work with on my screen wall, my subs are 24” tall and 120” screen will be 63.5”! The borders are 2.75, so the nets me another 5.5”.so if I mount screen at 21.25” from the floor, that will leave me with exactly 5” from the ceiling to the viewing portion of the screen! Is that enough? The projector is 4.1” tall, so if i put the projector flush on the ceiling,assuming the center of lens is 2” from the top of the projector, that should give me about 2.9” from ceil to visible screen? Is that within the offset parameters. In the manual it says the lowest offset is 75 mm which is 2.95 “ so I’m assuming I’m close enough or is .05 going to be a big deal?


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Sorry I boofed up on the lens shifting issue. The ±2.5% from the 105% must be the variable tolerance(?), although I don't know why it would be this high.
The actual lens shift is +10%. So that would be from 105% up to 115%(±2.5%).

According to the screen calculator website the height for an 120" 16:9 screen is 58.875". If your screen is 63.5" (with borders I assume), minus the borders (2.75x2=5.5) it would be 58", so you're off by 0.875", not a 16:9 format. https://www.draperinc.com/projection...alculator.aspx
Will use 58.875" in the calculations below.

What PJ model do you have?
The height of the projector (HT2050) is 121.7mm/4.79".
The manual in the link has it 104mm, not sure why. You can go to benq's website for your model and download the manual from there. You can also use a measuring tape.
The distance from the center of the lens to the bottom of the projector (actually the top, but in the ceiling instalation it's inverted) is about 50mm/2".

If your subs are 24" tall how are you mounting the screen at 21.25"? I assume you put the border under the sub level, with the visible screen starting at 24". Depending where you have positioned the subs you could get the screen even lower, as long as they don't block the light source.
Assuming you are mounting the screen at 21.25": add the bottom border 21.25"+2.75"=24". Add the height of the (visible) screen 24"+58.875"=82.875". You do not need to add the last border since this is where the visible screen ends.

5% of 58.875" is 2.94". So the center of the lens should be at 82.875"+2.94"=85.815". On top of that you need space for the rest of the projector:4.79"(total PJ height) - 2"=2.97". Total required height 88.785". You need an extra 1.785".

Double check the exact screen dimensions, as well as the subs and ceiling.
As @unretarded mentioned and from the ±2.5% variable tolerance specification, you need to have some wiggle room. 5% offset would be the minimum, and since the offset can go up to 15%, 10% would be in the middle. This would mean the projector would need to sit even higher and/or the screen lower.
Also keep in mind that eyesight level needs to be around 1/3rd of the height of the screen. Eyesight while sitting is around 100cm/40". In this configuration it would be: 21.25" subs+2.75"border+(58.875"/3)19.6"= 43.6" which is ok.
LE: I updated the screen calculator webiste with more precise mesurement, redid the numbers.

Last edited by noob00224; 11-20-2018 at 12:10 PM.
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post #1623 of 1670 Old 11-20-2018, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
Sorry I boofed up on the lens shifting issue. The ±2.5% from the 105% must be the variable tolerance(?), although I don't know why it would be this high.
The actual lens shift is +10%. So that would be from 105% up to 115%(±2.5%).

According to the screen calculator website the height for an 120" 16:9 screen is 58.875". If your screen is 63.5" (with borders I assume), minus the borders (2.75x2=5.5) it would be 58", so you're off by 0.875", not a 16:9 format. https://www.draperinc.com/projection...alculator.aspx
Will use 58.875" in the calculations below.

What PJ model do you have?
The height of the projector (HT2050) is 121.7mm/4.79".
The manual in the link has it 104mm, not sure why. You can go to benq's website for your model and download the manual from there. You can also use a measuring tape.
The distance from the center of the lens to the bottom of the projector (actually the top, but in the ceiling instalation it's inverted) is about 50mm/2".

If your subs are 24" tall how are you mounting the screen at 21.25"? I assume you put the border under the sub leve, with the visible screen starting at 24". Depending where you have positioned the subs you could get the screen even lower, as long as they don't block the light source.
Assuming you are mounting the screen at 21.25": add the bottom border 21.25"+2.75"=24". Add the height of the (visible) screen 24"+58.875"=82.875". You do not need to add the last border since this is where the visible screen ends.

5% of 58.875" is 2.94". So the center of the lens should be at 82.875"+2.94"=85.815". On top of that you need space for the rest of the projector:4.79"(total PJ height) - 2"=2.97". Total required height 88.785". You need an extra 1.785".
Using the lens shift (up to 15%) would actually require more height.

Double check the exact screen dimensions, as well as the subs and ceiling.
As @unretarded mentioned and from the ±2.5% variable tolerance specification, you need to have some wiggle room. 5% offset would be the minimum, and since the offset can go up to 15%, 10% would be in the middle. This would mean the projector would need to sit even higher and/or the screen lower.
Also keep in mind that eyesight level needs to be around 1/3rd of the height of the screen. Eyesight while sitting is around 100cm/40". In this configuration it would be: 21.25" subs+2.75"border+(58.875"/3)19.6"= 43.6" which is ok.
LE: I updated the screen calculator webiste with more precise mesurement, redid the numbers.


So, yes if the screen is mounted at 21.25 inches that puts border behind subs, which I’m ok with! Which puts the bottom of viewing area at 24”,
So this screen which is top of the list now, I’m planning to attach the projector to the ceiling (drop ceiling) diy so it’s basically setting on it as if it were setting on the floor just upside down. So I could put subs on their sides putting their height at 22”, not sure if that will get me there? Or I could get 110” screen( not my favourite plan), or I could locate subs elsewhere or..... I’m not great with #’s


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post #1624 of 1670 Old 11-20-2018, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
Sorry I boofed up on the lens shifting issue. The ±2.5% from the 105% must be the variable tolerance(?), although I don't know why it would be this high.
The actual lens shift is +10%. So that would be from 105% up to 115%(±2.5%).

According to the screen calculator website the height for an 120" 16:9 screen is 58.875". If your screen is 63.5" (with borders I assume), minus the borders (2.75x2=5.5) it would be 58", so you're off by 0.875", not a 16:9 format. https://www.draperinc.com/projection...alculator.aspx
Will use 58.875" in the calculations below.

What PJ model do you have?
The height of the projector (HT2050) is 121.7mm/4.79".
The manual in the link has it 104mm, not sure why. You can go to benq's website for your model and download the manual from there. You can also use a measuring tape.
The distance from the center of the lens to the bottom of the projector (actually the top, but in the ceiling instalation it's inverted) is about 50mm/2".

If your subs are 24" tall how are you mounting the screen at 21.25"? I assume you put the border under the sub level, with the visible screen starting at 24". Depending where you have positioned the subs you could get the screen even lower, as long as they don't block the light source.
Assuming you are mounting the screen at 21.25": add the bottom border 21.25"+2.75"=24". Add the height of the (visible) screen 24"+58.875"=82.875". You do not need to add the last border since this is where the visible screen ends.

5% of 58.875" is 2.94". So the center of the lens should be at 82.875"+2.94"=85.815". On top of that you need space for the rest of the projector:4.79"(total PJ height) - 2"=2.97". Total required height 88.785". You need an extra 1.785".

Double check the exact screen dimensions, as well as the subs and ceiling.
As @unretarded mentioned and from the ±2.5% variable tolerance specification, you need to have some wiggle room. 5% offset would be the minimum, and since the offset can go up to 15%, 10% would be in the middle. This would mean the projector would need to sit even higher and/or the screen lower.
Also keep in mind that eyesight level needs to be around 1/3rd of the height of the screen. Eyesight while sitting is around 100cm/40". In this configuration it would be: 21.25" subs+2.75"border+(58.875"/3)19.6"= 43.6" which is ok.
LE: I updated the screen calculator webiste with more precise mesurement, redid the numbers.


LE2: What you could do is put the projector on horizontal plane like a table (or the floor) just underneath the spot where it would hang in the ceiling.
Make sure the feet underneath it are at a minimum so the unit does not tilt.
Mesure the distance from the center of the lens to the floor.
Project an image with minimum lens shift, then maximum lens shift.
Mesure the distance from the floor to when the projected image starts ON THE SCREEN (not the wall) for the 2 tests.
You can substract the distance from the floor to the center of the lens and you will know exactly what the offset is.
When you put in on the ceiling the offset will be going downwards, instead of upwards as it is on the table, but same numbers.


Ht2050


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post #1625 of 1670 Old 11-20-2018, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelly.mcaloney View Post
So, yes if the screen is mounted at 21.25 inches that puts border behind subs, which I’m ok with! Which puts the bottom of viewing area at 24”,
So this screen which is top of the list now, I’m planning to attach the projector to the ceiling (drop ceiling) diy so it’s basically setting on it as if it were setting on the floor just upside down. So I could put subs on their sides putting their height at 22”, not sure if that will get me there? Or I could get 110” screen( not my favourite plan), or I could locate subs elsewhere or..... I’m not great with #’s


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You can get the exact measurements for this product from the manufacturers website (also attached picture): https://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/48 On the website this model is listed as ER120WH2. Just paste it where it says Model Number and only this one will be visible.

The dimensions in inches are not exactly precise. On amazon it's View Size: 59.0" H x 104.7.. What you really need is the mesurements in millimeters (viewable area): 2656.8 W x 1493.5 H. Converted to inches these would be 104.59 W and 58.79 H. On Elite it's 58.8"x104.6"

If the sub is right next to the screen, and the screen mounted at 21.25" you need an extra 1.785".
One option is moving the sub forward and the screen lower. Not sure how this will affect the acoustics.
Can you put the subs by the side of the screen, not in front of it?

Please keep in mind that you will not get millimeter precision, so some room to adjust would be nice, both in zoom and lens shift.

To find out what offset you really have on the pj:
Put the projector on horizontal plane like a table (or the floor) underneath the spot where it would hang in the ceiling. Since you don't have a screen it should be about 2cm or 1/2" backwards (to simulate the distance a screen would add).
Make sure the feet underneath it are at a minimum so the unit does not tilt.
Mesure the distance from the center of the lens to the floor.
Project an image with minimum lens shift, then maximum lens shift.
Mesure the distance from the floor to when the projected image starts for the 2 lens shift tests.
The distance from the center of the lens to when the image starts is the offset (Floor to Image start distance - Floor to center of lens distance=offset distance).
When you put in on the ceiling the offset will be going downwards, instead of upwards as it is on the table, but same numbers.


Last edited by markrubin; 11-30-2018 at 09:43 PM.
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post #1626 of 1670 Old 11-20-2018, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
You can get the exact measurements for this product from the manufacturers website (also attached picture): https://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/48 On the website this model is listed as ER120WH2. The dimensions in inches are not exactly precise. On amazon it's View Size: 59.0" H x 104.7 and on Elite it's 58.8"x104.6". What you really need is the mesurements in millimeters (viewable area): A 2656.8 W x B 1493.5 H. Converted to inches these would be 104.59 W and 58.79 H.

If the sub is right next to the screen, and the screen mounted at 21.25" you need an extra 1.785".
One option is moving the sub forward and the screen lower. Not sure how this will affect the acoustics.
Can you put the subs by the side of the screen, not in front of it?

Please keep in mind that you will not get millimeter precision, so some room to adjust would be nice, both in zoom and lens shift.

To find out what offset you really have on the pj:
Put the projector on horizontal plane like a table (or the floor) underneath the spot where it would hang in the ceiling. Since you don't have a screen it should be about 2cm or 1/2" backwards (to simulate the distance a screen would add).
Make sure the feet underneath it are at a minimum so the unit does not tilt.
Mesure the distance from the center of the lens to the floor.
Project an image with minimum lens shift, then maximum lens shift.
Mesure the distance from the floor to when the projected image starts for the 2 lens shift tests.
You can substract the distance from the floor to the center of the lens and you will know what the offset is.
When you put in on the ceiling the offset will be going downwards, instead of upwards as it is on the table, but same numbers.



Thanks for your help and patience! Yes I can put the subs to the sides, I just wanted to leave a little flexibility in placement at the front of the room, there will be a third identical sub in the rear so prob won’t be a huge deal, the projector is already set up( by a friend that no longer lives near) in a small room with 100 inch screen and it’s def not perfect! I’ll play around when I get home later this week! I won’t be changing rooms TIL January so I got time to figure it all out!!


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post #1627 of 1670 Old 11-20-2018, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
You can get the exact measurements for this product from the manufacturers website (also attached picture): https://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/48 On the website this model is listed as ER120WH2. Just paste it where it says Model Number and only this one will be visible.

The dimensions in inches are not exactly precise. On amazon it's View Size: 59.0" H x 104.7.. What you really need is the mesurements in millimeters (viewable area): 2656.8 W x 1493.5 H. Converted to inches these would be 104.59 W and 58.79 H. On Elite it's 58.8"x104.6"

If the sub is right next to the screen, and the screen mounted at 21.25" you need an extra 1.785".
One option is moving the sub forward and the screen lower. Not sure how this will affect the acoustics.
Can you put the subs by the side of the screen, not in front of it?

Please keep in mind that you will not get millimeter precision, so some room to adjust would be nice, both in zoom and lens shift.

To find out what offset you really have on the pj:
Put the projector on horizontal plane like a table (or the floor) underneath the spot where it would hang in the ceiling. Since you don't have a screen it should be about 2cm or 1/2" backwards (to simulate the distance a screen would add).
Make sure the feet underneath it are at a minimum so the unit does not tilt.
Mesure the distance from the center of the lens to the floor.
Project an image with minimum lens shift, then maximum lens shift.
Mesure the distance from the floor to when the projected image starts for the 2 lens shift tests.
You can substract the distance from the floor to the center of the lens and you will know what the offset is.
When you put in on the ceiling the offset will be going downwards, instead of upwards as it is on the table, but same numbers.



I think when the time comes I’ll put the projector where I was going to put it and put the screen where it needs to be then figure out subs from there, the screen wall is 17 feet so....


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post #1628 of 1670 Old 11-20-2018, 06:10 PM
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Not sure your personal tastes, but I would highly recommend a spandex screen, it solves most of these problems...….for the slight hit in gain and a slight reduction in 3D performance, it is well worth it, considering they are super cheap and easy to build....


Here is a thread I did on the screen and making the frame....super super easy and cheap, super adaptable and scalable....performance and some other discussion you might find helpful.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...en-review.html
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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #1629 of 1670 Old 11-28-2018, 12:52 PM
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Is it better to have the projector closer or further from the screen?


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post #1630 of 1670 Old 11-28-2018, 02:26 PM
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Depends on what you are trying to do, the screen gain, projector lumens, room color intended use...…..
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Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelly.mcaloney View Post
Is it better to have the projector closer or further from the screen?


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What you want, is to first know the size screen you want, and then the Min and Max distances it can be from the screen. For the Brightest image, it needs to be the closest to the screen for your size, fully opened (zoomed out for the biggest image).

I have a 120" screen. I have my PJ almost as close as it can be for 120" (10' something) and zoomed out for largest picture. You will get maximum light. So the rule would be zoomed all the way out, and then move it as close to screen as you can get to fill the screen.

hope that helps
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post #1632 of 1670 Old 11-28-2018, 02:55 PM
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Thanks, yeah I have the projector set up in a diff room for a year now but am moving it to a bigger room with no windows, I just want to make sure I am getting the most of it, that’s why all the questions, when I set it up before I knew I would be moving it so I just threw it on the ceiling! I have a 100” screen but want to go 120”! Im sure I’ll have more questions, just waiting for the room to be completed!


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post #1633 of 1670 Old 11-28-2018, 03:35 PM
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I am not sure how it applies to lenses on PJ`s....but usually on something with magnification,scopes,bino`s, extremes at either end of the spectrum give some degradation ……………..otherwise you could just magnify all you wanted. The best part of any lens is in the center. I have no idea how this plays out for a PJ, but I am sure a google search might yield some interesting reading.



I have done some observational testing, with mine opened and closed ….the smaller picture looks a little sharper...….but I have no idea if it is lens or focus or a brightness that makes it look this way. I know focus is very sensitive when the lens is opened up for the largest image size and when closed down, it is not nearly as sensitive......that tells me opened up is pushing the end of the usable lens.

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
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post #1634 of 1670 Old 12-07-2018, 09:41 AM
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Bulb/Lamp Replacement

Hi guys,

Been a while since I have been in this forum. I have over 3900 hours on my original bulb (Benq 2050). Last night I noticed a drastic decrease in the brightness. I know at one time there was a link in this thread for bulb replacements, or where is everyone buying bulbs for the 2050 ?

Thanks,

Last edited by injaneer; 12-07-2018 at 10:07 AM.
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post #1635 of 1670 Old 12-07-2018, 06:23 PM
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I purchased mine directly from benQ…….



At about that 3900 hour point, I was using 50/50 contrast brightness and a dim gamma setting and also the bulb on eco...…… I bumped the gamma brightness, put the bulb on normal and raised the contrast and brightness and made it to almost 9000 hours....at about 8500, it got back to pretty dim and the settings made little difference at that point as it only degraded picture quality.



The factory bulb from BenQ was a easy 5 minute change over......I hope to get almost 9000 hours from this one too.


I thought about keeping the old housing and putting in a factory type bulb myself for about 100 bucks, but between playing the in the mercury of the popped bulb and the fact a cheap opped bulb can almost ruin a PJ and require professional clean up inside of it,....I opted for the safe route of a real factory complete replacement.



A side note, the connector on the bulb was very brittle, if I had just replaced the bulb and not the housing which included a new connector, I am not sure how I would have liked that since the old one was as fragile as a egg shell after cooking for 9000 hours.

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
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post #1636 of 1670 Old 12-07-2018, 07:53 PM
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So I got a [what I thought] was a good quality HDMI cable on Amazon for my HT2050A projector, but it was only going through from infrequently used Steamlink. For movie streaming we use Chromecast (3rd generation now). However I've just gotten a good HDMI splitter to have 3 inputs and 1 HDMI output + optical and RCA audio out in order to connect better speakers, and I'm looking at HDMI cables again.

Basically now this long cable that I have routed through a few cable hiding channels is a 4:2:0 HDMI cable, and it will be used for all the inputs via HDMI switcher.

Is it worth upgrading that to a 4:4:4 cable, or will I not really see much difference between the two with my 1080p HT2050a? And I don't mean like 1 foot from the 110" 3:2 diagonal screen, but more like 10-14 feet from the screen. Does 4:4:4 cable even matter given that the projector lists its HDMI inputs as "1.4a/HDCP1.4", which is far below 2.0 or 2.0a/b?

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post #1637 of 1670 Old 12-07-2018, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
I purchased mine directly from benQ…….



At about that 3900 hour point, I was using 50/50 contrast brightness and a dim gamma setting and also the bulb on eco...…… I bumped the gamma brightness, put the bulb on normal and raised the contrast and brightness and made it to almost 9000 hours....at about 8500, it got back to pretty dim and the settings made little difference at that point as it only degraded picture quality.



The factory bulb from BenQ was a easy 5 minute change over......I hope to get almost 9000 hours from this one too.


I thought about keeping the old housing and putting in a factory type bulb myself for about 100 bucks, but between playing the in the mercury of the popped bulb and the fact a cheap opped bulb can almost ruin a PJ and require professional clean up inside of it,....I opted for the safe route of a real factory complete replacement.



A side note, the connector on the bulb was very brittle, if I had just replaced the bulb and not the housing which included a new connector, I am not sure how I would have liked that since the old one was as fragile as a egg shell after cooking for 9000 hours.
I have been on Smart Eco and about 50/50 brightness/contrast for almost 2 years. The brightness seems to be better tonight, I have also gotten sick, so maybe a combination of things. I did order a lamp replacement from Pureland Supply, I hope it is a good one. But may not need it for some time.

Thanks for the advice. I might take my old lamp housing out, and try to replace just the bulb, based on the conditions when I get it out.
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post #1638 of 1670 Old 12-07-2018, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SmokyQuartz View Post
So I got a [what I thought] was a good quality HDMI cable on Amazon for my HT2050A projector, but it was only going through from infrequently used Steamlink. For movie streaming we use Chromecast (3rd generation now). However I've just gotten a good HDMI splitter to have 3 inputs and 1 HDMI output + optical and RCA audio out in order to connect better speakers, and I'm looking at HDMI cables again.

Basically now this long cable that I have routed through a few cable hiding channels is a 4:2:0 HDMI cable, and it will be used for all the inputs via HDMI switcher.

Is it worth upgrading that to a 4:4:4 cable, or will I not really see much difference between the two with my 1080p HT2050a? And I don't mean like 1 foot from the 110" 3:2 diagonal screen, but more like 10-14 feet from the screen. Does 4:4:4 cable even matter given that the projector lists its HDMI inputs as "1.4a/HDCP1.4", which is far below 2.0 or 2.0a/b?
Short answer, no, longer answer, still no.
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post #1639 of 1670 Old 12-11-2018, 09:40 AM
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Is anyone aware of what features/processing are lost when enabling fast mode on the 2050a to reduce the input latency? Trying to understand if leaving it enabled all the time is a viable option, rather than trying to remember to toggle it on and off when switching between gaming and movies.
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post #1640 of 1670 Old 12-20-2018, 01:19 PM
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Any recommendations for a long ceiling mount, capable of 29-32" from ceiling to bottom of the projector? I see a few candidates on Amazon but none seem guaranteed to fit the three-hole mounting scheme of the HT2050. Has anyone here had particular luck with a certain brand/model of long mount?
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post #1641 of 1670 Old 12-20-2018, 02:49 PM
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Is anyone aware of what features/processing are lost when enabling fast mode on the 2050a to reduce the input latency? Trying to understand if leaving it enabled all the time is a viable option, rather than trying to remember to toggle it on and off when switching between gaming and movies.


Honestly, I never noticed any change or decrease in image quality when operating the projector in fast mode. Feel free to leave it in fast mode all the time.

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post #1642 of 1670 Old 12-27-2018, 01:22 PM
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I got my 2050A today and spent some time this afternoon comparing it side by with with my old BenQ W1000. The W1000 has a new bulb so it should be as good as it gets for that model. After running through some minor calibration I started playing a variety of demo material with the projectors more or less stacked and half the lenses covered on each so that comparisons could be done on the fly. I then would swap full images to get a full sense of the differences. Over all they are far more alike than different which was a bit disappointing as I had hoped the black levels on the 2050A would be much better but they are very similar on my current acoustically transparent grey screen. I have a pure white PVC screen coming in the next few days but for now black levels are close. The 2050A is better in that regard but where it shines, pardon the pun is brightness as it is much brighter and as such provides a more vivid image that has more pure whites and so higher contrast. The resolution is similar with both presenting a sharp enough image with the slight edge going to the 2050A.

Over all I'm both happy and disappointed. The image quality is better but not so much that I'm blown away vs what I had previously and had I bought the new one locally from a store with a liberal return policy I'd think twice about keeping it. I may feel different when the new screen comes in as I'm going from a grey 106" AT screen to a 110" pure white.

As an aside given the throw distance differences I had to move my ceiling mount forward a foot or so which means I'm almost sitting right under the PJ now but it isn't an issue as it is quiet enough not to be annoying.
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post #1643 of 1670 Old 12-27-2018, 01:28 PM
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You should have started a thread about getting a new PJ, I am pretty sure most would have advised not going to that from what you had, not much difference...……...if you could have caught the good sales and added a couple hun, then the 2550 would have been a nice step up as it hit below 1000 bucks without any crazy cupons or discounts...….

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #1644 of 1670 Old 12-27-2018, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
You should have started a thread about getting a new PJ, I am pretty sure most would have advised not going to that from what you had, not much difference...……...if you could have caught the good sales and added a couple hun, then the 2550 would have been a nice step up as it hit below 1000 bucks without any crazy cupons or discounts...….
I did ask in the 2050A vs 27HDR thread.... Budgets are tight and in Canada prices are always much more. I paid $850 for the 2050A. The 2550 is $1500.

I may add a Darbee in the future and then just wait for 4K to settle down.

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post #1645 of 1670 Old 12-27-2018, 06:19 PM
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Official BenQ HT2050/W1110 Owner/Settings Thread

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Originally Posted by Prattalot View Post
I did ask in the 2050A vs 27HDR thread.... Budgets are tight and in Canada prices are always much more. I paid $850 for the 2050A. The 2550 is $1500.



I may add a Darbee in the future and then just wait for 4K to settle down.


Put some hours on the HT2050A. Every BenQ I’ve reviewed has had a hot lamp when new. Get 50-100 hrs on the lamp and it calms down immensely. It’s one of the reasons I can never get reviews out as fast as I’d like— I’m stuck putting hours on the lamp. After 100 hrs the black levels get better just on account of the lamp. You shouldn’t expect miracles but it will be better.

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post #1646 of 1670 Old 12-27-2018, 09:20 PM
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I may add a Darbee in the future and then just wait for 4K to settle down.
Language warning


Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #1647 of 1670 Old 02-01-2019, 04:40 PM
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I've had my HT2050a for several months, and have been using it with the Settings out of the Box on Eco Mode and Cinema.

I borrowed my friend's Spears and Munsil Blu-ray to calibrate it the other day. I calibrated my last PJ, MANY years ago with DVE. So I've forgotten a lot.

While calibrating, I bumped the Brightness up from 50 out of the box to 51. Contrast went from 48 out of the box down to 38. I tried to perform the Color calibrations with the Blue Filter, but my Color and Tint were grayed out on my HT2050a. I think I remember over HDMI, Color and Tint is not adjustable as it's digital and already accurate? But I came up to my old Panasonic Plasma TV that also uses HDMI and I have the ability to adjust color and tint on it, so now I'm confused.

When performing the Sharpness Test, it said to jack it all the way up and bring it down when jagged lines disappear etc. Out of the Box, Sharpness was a 7. All the way up, or all the way down changed absolutely nothing on the Test Pattern. Zilch. So I left it on 7. Does this mean I have an issue with my BenQ PJ since Sharpness does nothing?

So to summarize, I was only concerned with this part of the calibration, but could only adjust Brightness and Contrast. Just doesn't seem right.

Tony
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post #1648 of 1670 Old 02-01-2019, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonybradley View Post
I've had my HT2050a for several months, and have been using it with the Settings out of the Box on Eco Mode and Cinema.

I borrowed my friend's Spears and Munsil Blu-ray to calibrate it the other day. I calibrated my last PJ, MANY years ago with DVE. So I've forgotten a lot.

While calibrating, I bumped the Brightness up from 50 out of the box to 51. Contrast went from 48 out of the box down to 38. I tried to perform the Color calibrations with the Blue Filter, but my Color and Tint were grayed out on my HT2050a. I think I remember over HDMI, Color and Tint is not adjustable as it's digital and already accurate? But I came up to my old Panasonic Plasma TV that also uses HDMI and I have the ability to adjust color and tint on it, so now I'm confused.

When performing the Sharpness Test, it said to jack it all the way up and bring it down when jagged lines disappear etc. Out of the Box, Sharpness was a 7. All the way up, or all the way down changed absolutely nothing on the Test Pattern. Zilch. So I left it on 7. Does this mean I have an issue with my BenQ PJ since Sharpness does nothing?

So to summarize, I was only concerned with this part of the calibration, but could only adjust Brightness and Contrast. Just doesn't seem right.
For grayscale you can use the AVS 709 calibration disk, specifically 1-Black Clipping and 3-White Clipping in Basic settings. There is also a 5-Sharpness & Overscan test: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...libration.html
I don't know why you got 38 for contrast, I have 51 Brightness and 50 Contrast (with 2.4 gamma) on a Cinegrey 3D (1.2 gain) screen.
Make sure the Dynamic Range is set correctly from your devices and software, as well as gamma (if available).

Color calibration without calibration equipment is difficult, and as I understand the projector is fairly accurate out of the box. You can still go to Advanced>Color Temperature Fine Tuning and Color Management via the projector menu. To enable Color Temperature Brilliant Color needs to be activated. There are hidden menus for professional calibrators as well, but it's not recommended to play with those settings unless you know what you're doing.

The options of Color/Tint are always greyed out no matter using HDMI connection or VGA connection. Is it normal?
03-06-2017
Yes. Color / Tint only works when the input source is Video (CVBS) or S-Video. It will be greyed out for other input sources. Please refer to user manual for more details.
https://www.benq.com/en-ap/support/d...faq-00038.html

The sharpness setting does have an effect, check out this review for the W2000/HT3050 (identical with this feature): http://projectiondream.com/en/review...or-benq-w2000/ You can click the pictures to make them larger.
Sharpness is also discussed here: https://www.projectorreviews.com/ben...3050-sharpness
I recommend adjusting the focus so that the sharpest point is 1/3 out from the center. (That is fairly typical.)
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Last edited by noob00224; 02-02-2019 at 01:54 AM.
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post #1649 of 1670 Old 02-02-2019, 06:20 AM
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For grayscale you can use the AVS 709 calibration disk, specifically 1-Black Clipping and 3-White Clipping in Basic settings. There is also a 5-Sharpness & Overscan test: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...libration.html
I don't know why you got 38 for contrast, I have 51 Brightness and 50 Contrast (with 2.4 gamma) on a Cinegrey 3D (1.2 gain) screen.
Make sure the Dynamic Range is set correctly from your devices and software, as well as gamma (if available).

Color calibration without calibration equipment is difficult, and as I understand the projector is fairly accurate out of the box. You can still go to Advanced>Color Temperature Fine Tuning and Color Management via the projector menu. To enable Color Temperature Brilliant Color needs to be activated. There are hidden menus for professional calibrators as well, but it's not recommended to play with those settings unless you know what you're doing.

The options of Color/Tint are always greyed out no matter using HDMI connection or VGA connection. Is it normal?
03-06-2017
Yes. Color / Tint only works when the input source is Video (CVBS) or S-Video. It will be greyed out for other input sources. Please refer to user manual for more details.
https://www.benq.com/en-ap/support/d...faq-00038.html

The sharpness setting does have an effect, check out this review for the W2000/HT3050 (identical with this feature): http://projectiondream.com/en/review...or-benq-w2000/ You can click the pictures to make them larger.
Sharpness is also discussed here: https://www.projectorreviews.com/ben...3050-sharpness
I recommend adjusting the focus so that the sharpest point is 1/3 out from the center. (That is fairly typical.)
The Spears and Munsil has plenty of patterns. I find it odd that my Sharpness does nothing though. I've read others with the 2050a, since it's so good out of the box, they only had to adjust the Contrast a bit and maybe brightness. Based on the Spears and Munsil, in my Dark Room, setting the Contrast Higher than out of the box did not match the pattern examples at all. Only decreasing it went in the correct direction of their instructions.

I'll take a look at those links you sent. Thank you for providing them. I find the BenQ very difficult to focus and zoom correctly for the screen when they are connected. With my old Panasonic, the zoom had no effect on the focus and vice versa.

It already looked so good to me, I don't think I'll mess with it anymore.
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post #1650 of 1670 Old 03-03-2019, 12:39 PM
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FWIW, my original bulb blew after three years while my daughter was playing games. She said it sounded like a balloon popping.

Ordered this replacement for $80 and will report back on how well it works. Much less than the OEM part on the BenQ website.

https://www.amazon.com/EWOS-5J-JEE05...-1-spons&psc=1
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