Originally Posted by kutzon
Is that 120" in cinemascope or 16:9?
I own the very similar HT3050 and shift between a 128" scope and 103" 16:9 format, using the zoom. You get increased brightness with the large format (great for 3D) and increased sharpness & contrast with the latter.
I'm confused. How do you get "increased brightness"? Are you relocating the projector when switching between formats? Or just leaving it fixed in place and only adjusting the zoom?
In my world leaving the projector in place and zooming from a small image to a big image (never mind aspect ratio for the moment) *reduces* light intensity. Worse for 3D.
I mean if you're happy I don't want to spoil your happiness. But something doesn't sound right.
I think you and I are using the same strategy. For regular 16:9 TV you overspill your screen a tiny bit top-and-bottom, probably soaked up by a velvet border. When letterboxed widescreen movies appear in that 16:9 imaging area you just zoom wider (and tilt the projector mount as necessary) and >boom< the active image content fills your 2.35:1 screen perfectly (and the black bars fall invisibly on your wall above and below the screen). It's as close as you can get to CIH-zoom-method (requires 1.33 zoom range) with these projectors (1.30 zoom range).
I'm guessing you are 11'4" away and your screen is a 128" 2.35:1 screen which is 50" tall. When you are zoomed tight you have an image that is 51" high which is close enough so you aren't losing much information off the top edge of the screen. When you zoom out the projector is lighting up a rectangle 66" high including black bars, but the interesting part is only 50" high which fits perfectly.
Totally agree apparent sharpness and contrast will improve with tighter zoom.
But if you are zooming from (effectively) 104" diagonal 16:9 to (effectively) 135" diagonal 16:9, it's not getting "brighter" in the sense of higher intensity.