Originally Posted by xplorar
First of all, thank you for sharing your 3D calibration and measurement experience with us! Most of the time its only the 2D settings that get discussed everywhere.
I don't have a meter, and rely on AVS HD709 clips for setting contrast and brightness in 2D. What can I use for setting those in 3D?
Last night I tried to do a blind 3D calibration using your advice while watching Skyscraper 3D -
My son immediately said that picture looks slightly reddish. To me color variances looked smooth and natural but overall picture somehow indeed looked duller and soft.
I then tried my older setting back -
Picture then looked punchier and sharper again. Son preferred this too.
So I guess its back to slightly unnatural colors, stepped color variances for me. But somehow this gives a better movie experience. I guess that the inherent loss of contrast and luminescence in 3D make my settings extremities preferable for us.
By all means put the settings where they bring you the most happiness.
To make adjustments to your 3D settings that you can confidently say are accurate you need to make those adjustments based on feedback you obtain while
-using a meter
-measuring your own display
-as it displays standard patterns
-while in 3D mode
-and measuring the light after it passes through your own 3D glasses
We're clearly a long way from that here.
I'm sorry the settings I obtained using this process on *my* unit don't do much to make *your* unit more accurate, or if they do, you don't prefer the results. Either or both may apply, and neither is unusual. I'm glad to hear your report either way. Thank you for posting.
If you do not have a way to force your display into 3D mode *before* displaying standard patterns, it's hard to even set brightness and contrast confidently. I'd be curious to hear from others better versed in 3D calibration, but I'm not aware of a disc encoded in 3D signal format that has calibration patterns. It seems like this should be a simple thing.
The way *I* did brightness and contrast was to use a Lumagen video processor to convert 2D test patterns into a 3D signal. There must be some similar approach even if you don't have a Lumagen, I'm just not familiar with it.
Both brightness and contrast are highly dependent on gamma. For this projector you can try starting at 2.2 but will probably benefit from going a click or two lower. Once you've committed to a gamma you can proceed to brightness then contrast. Changing the gamma later means you need to redo the others.
Without a proper 3D brightness 'pluge' pattern, I guess you just use the old fashioned method of waiting for your 3D program content to "fade to black" and set brightness that way. Turn up brightness until you see the first hint of background noise, then turn it back down to the point at which it just barely goes away.
As for setting contrast, you could also try using regular 3D movie content with very bright scenes (involving clouds usually) to determine a maximum contrast level. Reduce contrast until you never see clouds behave in a bizarre way. You will be surprised how far below 50 you have to go to never see weird posterization effects in clouds.
I actually used this method to confirm the settings that I arrived at with a test pattern.
You *might* have a chance at setting white and black correctly this way, but you can't really adjust color temperature to D65 by eye. You can always use the "do what you think looks right" method for white point, but you DEFINITELY cannot do CMS adjustments to the actual primaries and secondaries without a meter. Just don't attempt this, it's pointless.
And I will say categorically, the behavior of 2D mode has no relationship to 3D mode. You can't use a test pattern in 2D mode to make any prediction whatsoever as to what adjustments to make when the machine switches into 3D mode.
I hope some of this is helpful?