SONY VPL-HW45ES : HW40ES successor - Page 71 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2101 of 2607 Old 01-29-2017, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdlover57 View Post
Excuse my ignorance but why not use SONY 3D glasses with a SONY projector before filing a claim?
The same reason that the Samsung glasses work with the epson because they are both on the same standard.

In enginering we have standards so that products work together across brands. This is the same as how HDMI works across devices and blutooth wireless headsets from different brands work on phones. They have a specification and protocol.

I had been told that sony met the standard but apparently that was incorrect information.

Sony just had to state that they don't meet the standard and then it would have been settled. They refused to do that and just implied that their glassess were "more compatible" which cant really be true if the projector doeant work withard glasses that meet the spec....

I asked about the problem first stating exactly what glasses were used and what my expectations of the standard were and they said I had to talk to sony to try experiments. Doing that during the day is hard with a full time job...

If they had stated that only sony glasses work I may have tried it but it is still a disadvantage for the sony when the epson works with so many more glasses.

I read some of this thread but missed your post given that it is a popular thread.

-Rich

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post #2102 of 2607 Old 01-29-2017, 09:34 AM
 
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Originally Posted by rfb6435 View Post
The same reason that the Samsung glasses work with the epson because they are both on the same standard.

In enginering we have standards so that products work together across brands. This is the same as how HDMI works across devices and blutooth wireless headsets from different brands work on phones. They have a specification and protocol.

I had been told that sony met the standard but apparently that was incorrect information.

Sony just had to state that they don't meet the standard and then it would have been settled. They refused to do that and just implied that their glassess were "more compatible" which cant really be true if the projector doeant work withard glasses that meet the spec....

I asked about the problem first stating exactly what glasses were used and what my expectations of the standard were and they said I had to talk to sony to try experiments. Doing that during the day is hard with a full time job...

If they had stated that only sony glasses work I may have tried it but it is still a disadvantage for the sony when the epson works with so many more glasses.

I read some of this thread but missed your post given that it is a popular thread.

-Rich

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I use the Sony 500 with no flickering and no sync issues. I would never use any other brands. But that's me.
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post #2103 of 2607 Old 01-29-2017, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by birdlover57 View Post
I use the Sony 500 with no flickering and no sync issues. I would never use any other brands. But that's me.
The Sony's do seem to work the best imo. I contacted the manufacture of the 3Active ones regarding the buzzing noise and they said its normal and I'm just sensitive to it... they are going back and I ordered two more pair of the Sony ones.

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post #2104 of 2607 Old 01-29-2017, 10:57 AM
 
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The Sony's do seem to work the best imo. I contacted the manufacture of the 3Active ones regarding the buzzing noise and they said its normal and I'm just sensitive to it... they are going back and I ordered two more pair of the Sony ones.

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Are the Sony 500 glasses so hard to find that many opt to go with other brands?
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post #2105 of 2607 Old 01-29-2017, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by birdlover57 View Post
Are the Sony 500 glasses so hard to find that many opt to go with other brands?
I already had the other glasses from the epson....

The projectorreivews.com review stated that the epson glases worked and I trusted it which turned out to be incorrect:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/sony...al-features-2/

I also like 3d glasses to wrap and block light from behind. When I have used flat glasses I tend to get reflections from behind and it really bothers me. The sony glasses appear to be that flat style so I was avoiding them.

Now that I know that it does not really use full hd 3d glasses I would buy them. I had to return the unit because I had to go out of town for 2 weeks and the 30 day trial would have expired and they wouldnt extend it in order to try them. If it goes on sale again I might try another shootout with the epson.

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post #2106 of 2607 Old 01-29-2017, 11:47 AM
 
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Originally Posted by rfb6435 View Post
I already had the other glasses from the epson....

The projectorreivews.com review stated that the epson glases worked and I trusted it which turned out to be incorrect:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/sony...al-features-2/

I also like 3d glasses to wrap and block light from behind. When I have used flat glasses I tend to get reflections from behind and it really bothers me. The sony glasses appear to be that flat style so I was avoiding them.

Now that I know that it doeant really use full hd 3d glasses I would buy them but had to return the unit because I had to go out of town for 2 weeks and the 30 day trial would have expired. If it goes on sale again I might try another shootout with the epson.

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I know about reflections due to flat shape of Sony glasses, but there are ways to get around that problem
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post #2107 of 2607 Old 01-29-2017, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfb6435 View Post
I already had the other glasses from the epson....

The projectorreivews.com review stated that the epson glases worked and I trusted it which turned out to be incorrect:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/sony...al-features-2/

I also like 3d glasses to wrap and block light from behind. When I have used flat glasses I tend to get reflections from behind and it really bothers me. The sony glasses appear to be that flat style so I was avoiding them.

Now that I know that it does not really use full hd 3d glasses I would buy them. I had to return the unit because I had to go out of town for 2 weeks and the 30 day trial would have expired and they wouldnt extend it in order to try them. If it goes on sale again I might try another shootout with the epson.

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He didn't say the epson glasses work with it. He said he has Samsung glasses that work with both.

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post #2108 of 2607 Old 01-29-2017, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
He didn't say the epson glasses work with it. He said he has Samsung glasses that work with both.

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Ok point taken but it is misleading.

The Samsung glasses that I have and use with the Epson worked "better" than the Epson glasses did but still had flicker. Unfortunately the samsung glasses that work are also the kind the flat type that I find uncomfortable and annoying.

I am pretty sure that I also read a review that said they used the epson glasses. I will find it eventually but with all of the things together it was easy to think that Sony actually fully supported the standard. It was my mistake to think that if the same glasses worked on both the epson and the Sony that it meant that Sony fully supported the standard... I mean that is what standards are for.

I agree with you that only a few glasses work with the hw45es and that I shouldn't have assumed that sony the sony would work with all full hd 3d glasses.

-Rich
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post #2109 of 2607 Old 01-29-2017, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfb6435 View Post
Ok point taken but it is misleading.

The Samsung glasses that I have and use with the Epson worked "better" than the Epson glasses did but still had flicker. Unfortunately the samsung glasses that work are also the kind the flat type that I find uncomfortable and annoying.

I am pretty sure that I also read a review that said they used the epson glasses. I will find it eventually but with all of the things together it was easy to think that Sony actually fully supported the standard. It was my mistake to think that if the same glasses worked on both the epson and the Sony that it meant that Sony fully supported the standard... I mean that is what standards are for.

I agree with you that only a few glasses work with the hw45es and that I shouldn't have assumed that sony the sony would work with all full hd 3d glasses.

-Rich
I know. I went through the exact same scenario a while back. I was comparing the 45es to the Epson 5030UB. My posts about it are somewhere in this thread and sound a lot like what your saying if I remember.

There wasn't any conversation about which glasses worked with the 45es at the time so I just tried the Samsung 5150's and the Sony 500's on a wim and I'm glad I did. I'm really happy with the 45es.

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post #2110 of 2607 Old 01-30-2017, 02:05 AM
 
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Sony 500 work great. Only complaint is that they are a bit too narrow and are flat
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post #2111 of 2607 Old 01-30-2017, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by birdlover57 View Post
Sony 500 work great. Only complaint is that they are a bit too narrow and are flat
I have tried the panasonic, it does connect automatically but suffer left and right flickers every 3 seconds. Here is good news everybody, I put on an pair of sharp AN-3DG40 from my sharp TV and IT DOES WORK with no flickers. Guys go on the bay and grab some extras they are like under ten dollars and you can't beat them for the price. But after all I really like the fit and colors of the panasonic.
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post #2112 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 09:17 AM
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Well, I'm off to BB/Magnolia...after putting more thought into it than I care to admit, I think I'll just grab this and use it for the next 3 years until a 4K unit is available at a "sane" price-point.

I thought of waiting for the Optoma 4K unit, but that's almost another $1,000 and it will prolly (almost certainly) lag behind this one in contrast and "X".

Unless someone talks me out of it in the next 30 minutes...should I fear panel degradation???

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post #2113 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 11:30 AM
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Unless someone talks me out of it in the next 30 minutes...should I fear panel degradation???

Thanks
James
It was supposedly fixed or greatly reduced, but it also does not seem to have been widespread in the hw40's either. With a three year warranty, hopefully 4K, HDR, and WCG will be more settled before you have to worry about the panels in the Sony. At least that was my plan.
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post #2114 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 11:43 AM
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It was supposedly fixed or greatly reduced, but it also does not seem to have been widespread in the hw40's either. With a three year warranty, hopefully 4K, HDR, and WCG will be more settled before you have to worry about the panels in the Sony. At least that was my plan.
Right what I was thinking. This is really just a 3 year stop-gap.

Anyway- my friendly neighborhood BB/Magnolia blue-shirt knocked 2 bills off the $1999 so that made it that much easier!

James
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post #2115 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 11:50 AM
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What version of HDCP does the Sony VPL-HW45ES support? Is it 1.4 or 2.0 and if it's 2.0 is it backward compatible? Question being, I want to convert my HDCP 2.2 signal from my Roku 4 box to the projector and need to know if a 2.2 to 1.4 converter will do the trick?
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post #2116 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 12:14 PM
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I think its 1.4
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post #2117 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 12:21 PM
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What version of HDCP does the Sony VPL-HW45ES support? Is it 1.4 or 2.0 and if it's 2.0 is it backward compatible? Question being, I want to convert my HDCP 2.2 signal from my Roku 4 box to the projector and need to know if a 2.2 to 1.4 converter will do the trick?
You don't need a converter. HDCP 2.2 devices will send a 1080p signal if anything in the chain is less than version 2.2. You only need a full HDCP 2.2 chain if you want to view UHD sources.

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post #2118 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 01:58 PM
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You don't need a converter. HDCP 2.2 devices will send a 1080p signal if anything in the chain is less than version 2.2. You only need a full HDCP 2.2 chain if you want to view UHD sources.
Correct except the Roku 4 unit displays an error every time it turns on that says "This content cannot be displayed because your TV does not support HDCP 2.2". It takes 15 or so seconds and then it refreshes and must load in 1080p and displays the Roku Home screen. I was trying to get around seeing the dumb error screen every time it turns on.
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post #2119 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Duece7 View Post
Correct except the Roku 4 unit displays an error every time it turns on that says "This content cannot be displayed because your TV does not support HDCP 2.2". It takes 15 or so seconds and then it refreshes and must load in 1080p and displays the Roku Home screen. I was trying to get around seeing the dumb error screen every time it turns on.
Do you have the resolution set to 1080p in the Roku? Are you trying to play a 4k file by mistake?
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post #2120 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 02:17 PM
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Do you have the resolution set to 1080p in the Roku? Are you trying to play a 4k file by mistake?
Yes resolution is set to 1080p, well let me give you all the details. I never had an issue until my moronic self decided to change the display type in the Roku settings to 4K thinking my AVR would up-convert the output to something close to 4K. Of course couldn't tell a difference, turned my stuff off later that night, and the next time I turned everything on BAM, HDCP 2.2 error. Once it loads I've tried going into the display settings in Roku and it always shows 1080p. I'm assuming this is because it tries to load in 4k, realizes there is an issue and reverts back to 1080p. I've tried factory resetting the Roku box and it still does it. I'm at a loss so figured I would try the converter thing next.
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post #2121 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Duece7 View Post
Yes resolution is set to 1080p, well let me give you all the details. I never had an issue until my moronic self decided to change the display type in the Roku settings to 4K thinking my AVR would up-convert the output to something close to 4K. Of course couldn't tell a difference, turned my stuff off later that night, and the next time I turned everything on BAM, HDCP 2.2 error. Once it loads I've tried going into the display settings in Roku and it always shows 1080p. I'm assuming this is because it tries to load in 4k, realizes there is an issue and reverts back to 1080p. I've tried factory resetting the Roku box and it still does it. I'm at a loss so figured I would try the converter thing next.
Do you have the Roku connected directly to the 45 or is it connected to the receiver? If it is connected to the receiver make sure the receiver is also set to output 1080p. Some receivers the output can be set differently for each source. Make sure you are on the correct source for the Roku in the receiver and make sure it is set to 1080p output.
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post #2122 of 2607 Old 02-01-2017, 03:04 PM
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Do you have the Roku connected directly to the 45 or is it connected to the receiver? If it is connected to the receiver make sure the receiver is also set to output 1080p. Some receivers the output can be set differently for each source. Make sure you are on the correct source for the Roku in the receiver and make sure it is set to 1080p output.
Cool, haven't tried the receiver yet. I'll take a look at that when I get home. Thanks
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I haven't even dialed anything in just yet, but it's clear this will be a significant uptick from my already pretty solid Panny AR 100. Color, contrast, and motion/sharpness has definitely been bettered.

I did switch the lamp to "low" though and it looked like it will likely be too low for my 150" screen...and I'm at the min throw distance.

I can dark out the entire room, but I typically have a few can lights on 15-20 feet away. I'll see how things go.

Looks to be a great holdover PJ until an "affordable" 4K unit arrives.

James

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post #2124 of 2607 Old 02-02-2017, 06:49 AM
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I'm using his settings as well and find that to be best in my room. Using his settings is almost same as Ref mode but with double the contrast ratio.
Maybe I'm simply missing them, but where are his settings? I read the review and it makes reference to a few points: don't put RC past 20, Cinema 2, etc, but I don't see a bona fide list of settings???

This is where I've been directed:

http://www.projection-homecinema.fr/...ny-vpl-hw45es/

Thanks
James

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post #2125 of 2607 Old 02-02-2017, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by mastermaybe View Post
Maybe I'm simply missing them, but where are his settings? I read the review and it makes reference to a few points: don't put RC past 20, Cinema 2, etc, but I don't see a bona fide list of settings???

This is where I've been directed:

http://www.projection-homecinema.fr/...ny-vpl-hw45es/

Thanks
James
He just used Film 2 mode and made few changes mentioned such as color temp, gamma, RC, etc. It doesn't require many changes since it already looks good out of the box. All presets are pretty good but his settings are for dark room environment and suppose to have highest contrast ratio.
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post #2126 of 2607 Old 02-02-2017, 10:11 AM
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^ Cool, that's what I was guessing...thanks my man.

James

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post #2127 of 2607 Old 02-02-2017, 11:09 AM
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I haven't even dialed anything in just yet, but it's clear this will be a significant uptick from my already pretty solid Panny AR 100. Color, contrast, and motion/sharpness has definitely been bettered.

I did switch the lamp to "low" though and it looked like it will likely be too low for my 150" screen...and I'm at the min throw distance.

I can dark out the entire room, but I typically have a few can lights on 15-20 feet away. I'll see how things go.

Looks to be a great holdover PJ until an "affordable" 4K unit arrives.

James
What is your throw distance?


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post #2128 of 2607 Old 02-02-2017, 11:20 AM
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What is your throw distance?


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Just about the min for a 150" screen. ~ 15 feet.

James

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post #2129 of 2607 Old 02-02-2017, 11:41 AM
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Just about the min for a 150" screen. ~ 15 feet.

James
Thanks I'm shooting 150 from 17 and will move mine up to 15 this weekend . I am also in low lamp mode. Your screen not bright enough for you right now ?

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post #2130 of 2607 Old 02-02-2017, 12:14 PM
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Low Lamp mode question

Hello everyone,

New VPL-HW45ES owner here (ceiling mounted yesterday) and I love it so far! I do have a question though.

I noticed when switched to low lamp mode a small whine or high pitched ringing noise starts up and I can't figure out why. This doesn't seem to be the fan as I put the projector into high altitude mode and the fan noise increased but the whine did not. The noise immediately stops when switched back to high lamp mode.

Any ideas on this or is this a defect? I can just keep the projector in high lamp mode but I was hoping to save on some lamp life! My basement has very low light so high lamp is not needed.

Thanks in advance everyone!
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