SONY VPL-HW45ES : HW40ES successor - Page 86 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2551 of 2613 Old 09-06-2018, 01:49 PM
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Ten hours a day for seven months is about 2,000 hours. That's on the short end of expected lamp life. Due to many different variables lamp life can vary quite a bit. Your next lamp could last twice as long. Just be glad Sony reduced msrp of the genuine replacement lamp from $499 to $299.
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post #2552 of 2613 Old 09-06-2018, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
Ten hours a day for seven months is about 2,000 hours. That's on the short end of expected lamp life. Due to many different variables lamp life can vary quite a bit. Your next lamp could last twice as long. Just be glad Sony reduced msrp of the genuine replacement lamp from $499 to $299.
I think max lamp life is estimated to be 6000 hours in eco mode according to Sony. But I don't think anyone has reached that high? So if he was in high lamp mode then 3000 would be about average before it gets dim. Usually people replace it when it gets too dim that high lamp isn't watchable.

I wonder how many hours others have reached on their sony….I've had mine 2 years and its not even 1000 hrs yet. I only watch movies on weekends.

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post #2553 of 2613 Old 09-07-2018, 02:09 AM
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I think the biggest problem is watching a projector in anything other than a light controlled room will cause you to use it in High Lamp mode. Long term definitely get a LED TV to watch most of your programs and leave your projector to mostly movies and night time viewing, that way you can extend the life of the bulb and extend it even further by using Low Lamp mode.

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post #2554 of 2613 Old 09-07-2018, 05:17 PM
 
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I think the biggest problem is watching a projector in anything other than a light controlled room will cause you to use it in High Lamp mode. Long term definitely get a LED TV to watch most of your programs and leave your projector to mostly movies and night time viewing, that way you can extend the life of the bulb and extend it even further by using Low Lamp mode.
How boring. This is what ambient light rejecting screens are for.
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post #2555 of 2613 Old 09-09-2018, 12:21 PM
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Getting to the point where I should have a back up Lamp on hand. Quite a few hours on the original Lamp and its still fairly bright and the flickering issue I use to have seems to have settled down.

Anyways, have noticed there seems to be fewer Lamp suppliers around or at least when searching for the 45es Lamp few options come up, so was wondering where you folks have been going? "Pureland Supply" is one of better known, and think I have purchased from them in the past. Any other suggestions?
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post #2556 of 2613 Old 09-09-2018, 04:13 PM
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Sony's msrp for the genuine LMP-H210 replacement lamp is $299. Most legit vendors advertise the genuine lamp assembly for msrp or very close to it. Some places sell an aftermarket assembly with the original Philips lamp for a little less than that. Once you see a price too far under msrp you get into "compatible" territory that's supposed to be "as good as" the genuine thing. Risk of issues rises with falling prices. If you do a web search for LMP-H210 you'll see the options. For example, B&H Photo is trusted by many to deliver genuine projector replacement lamps at low prices and they are basically advertising the LMP-H210 at msrp.
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post #2557 of 2613 Old 09-10-2018, 12:40 AM
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How boring. This is what ambient light rejecting screens are for.
I have no experience with ALR screens but I'd assume that with them you would still require to run your projector in 'High Lamp' mode, if that's the case then you'd still be replacing the bulb way quicker than watching in a completely dark environment as with it 'Low Lamp' mode is perfectly fine if not preferrable.

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post #2558 of 2613 Old 09-15-2018, 05:20 PM
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I don't know the best way to describe it but I have noticed when I am watching a movie and subtitles pop up (like in the movie Baby Driver) that the subtitles seem to have a blurring effect when the scene pans behind the subtitles. Does anyone know what I am talking about or experienced this with their 45ES? I am curious if it has something to do with my current settings. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #2559 of 2613 Old 09-15-2018, 10:37 PM
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Hi all - I just got a brand new 45ES and am projecting on a 110" screen. It looks like there is a slight yellow outline around everything if you get up close. Has anyone else experienced this? It the projector defective? Or is this something that settings can fix?

Thanks so much,
T
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post #2560 of 2613 Old 09-15-2018, 10:38 PM
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Hi all - I just got a brand new 45ES and am projecting on a 110" screen. It looks like there is a slight yellow outline around everything if you get up close. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this something that settings can fix?

Thanks so much,
T
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post #2561 of 2613 Old 09-17-2018, 10:16 AM
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Hi all - I just got a brand new 45ES and am projecting on a 110" screen. It looks like there is a slight yellow outline around everything if you get up close. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this something that settings can fix?

Thanks so much,
T

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post #2562 of 2613 Old 09-18-2018, 03:32 PM
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I think max lamp life is estimated to be 6000 hours in eco mode according to Sony. But I don't think anyone has reached that high? So if he was in high lamp mode then 3000 would be about average before it gets dim. Usually people replace it when it gets too dim that high lamp isn't watchable.

I wonder how many hours others have reached on their sony….I've had mine 2 years and its not even 1000 hrs yet. I only watch movies on weekends.
2 years and around 500 hours. I only use mine for watching movies on the weekends as well.
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post #2563 of 2613 Old 09-19-2018, 04:35 PM
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1400 hrs on mine 21 months still looks great
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post #2564 of 2613 Old 09-23-2018, 12:03 PM
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Curious has anyone tweaked the Colour Correction on their 45es, I don’t have the software to check this out but was wondering if anyone else has done it and what setup did they end up with.

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post #2565 of 2613 Old 01-18-2019, 05:58 PM
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A little over 5000 hours and it's time for a new bulb. Does anyone know the philips bulb part # for the one used in this projector?
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post #2566 of 2613 Old 01-19-2019, 12:48 PM
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Currently own a Panasonic AX200U and am considering whether a HW45ES will work in my setup. I have it on a small shelf under a coffee table (see photo) and currently have the AX200U angled up a bit to hit the wall right. The HW45ES is considerably larger than the Panasonic and will leave only 1/2" of space to allow angling up the physical projector. I am trying to figure out if the 71% vertical lens shift capability of the Sony will allow it to hit my wall opening properly. Anyone know how to calculate percentages to angles? I have attached the dimensions on the photos below. I would think they would quote degrees versus percentages. 71% of what? 90 degrees? Thanks.
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post #2567 of 2613 Old 01-19-2019, 04:13 PM
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... 71% of what? 90 degrees? Thanks.
Vertical lens shift is +/- 71% of image height. So, for example, a 100" 16:9 screen has an image height of 49" and 71% of 49" is 34.8". So it can shift up or down 34.8" from the center of the 49" screen, with the center being 24.5" from the top and bottom of the screen. So 34.8" - 24.5" = 10.3", which means the center of the lens can be no more than 10.3" below the bottom of the screen's image area. This is all illustrated on page 9 of the HW45ES user manual, which you can download as a pdf file from the Sony website.

You can't angle the HW45ES up because it doesn't have digital keystone correction. You wouldn't want to use it even if you had it because the HW45ES produces a beautiful image and digital keystone correction would degrade that image. If your mounting location is too low for the HW45ES lens shift to handle it would be worth your while to do whatever is necessary to raise the projector higher.

By the way, I upgraded to the HW45ES from a Panasonic AX200U and couldn't be more satisfied with the performance improvement.
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post #2568 of 2613 Old 01-19-2019, 04:42 PM
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Vertical lens shift is +/- 71% of image height. So, for example, a 100" 16:9 screen has an image height of 49" and 71% of 49" is 34.8". So it can shift up or down 34.8" from the center of the 49" screen, with the center being 24.5" from the top and bottom of the screen. So 34.8" - 24.5" = 10.3", which means the center of the lens can be no more than 10.3" below the bottom of the screen's image area. This is all illustrated on page 9 of the HW45ES user manual, which you can download as a pdf file from the Sony website.

You can't angle the HW45ES up because it doesn't have digital keystone correction. You wouldn't want to use it even if you had it because the HW45ES produces a beautiful image and digital keystone correction would degrade that image. If your mounting location is too low for the HW45ES lens shift to handle it would be worth your while to do whatever is necessary to raise the projector higher.

By the way, I upgraded to the HW45ES from a Panasonic AX200U and couldn't be more satisfied with the performance improvement.
So if my picture height is 31" and it's center is 15.5" from the top and bottom, and 71% of 31" is 22" then my lowest point below the bottom of the picture is 22-15.5=6.5". Does that sound right? It sure doesn't sound like much shift
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post #2569 of 2613 Old 01-19-2019, 06:12 PM
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@lind777 , a 31" image height on a 16:9 aspect ratio screen equates to a 64" diagonal screen. One of the reasons why the amount of lens shift doesn't sound like much is because your screen size isn't much. The amount of lens shift in inches is proportional to the screen size in inches.

A 64" screen is definitely at the very low end of video projection where flat screen TVs make more sense. I would never think of spending all that money on an HW45ES for that small a screen. For the same price as an HW45ES you could get a nice 65" 4K TV in the same space as that 64" projection screen and have a sharper, brighter image with 4K resolution and no worries about ambient light washing out the image.

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post #2570 of 2613 Old 01-20-2019, 10:11 AM
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@lind777 , a 31" image height on a 16:9 aspect ratio screen equates to a 64" diagonal screen. One of the reasons why the amount of lens shift doesn't sound like much is because your screen size isn't much. The amount of lens shift in inches is proportional to the screen size in inches.

A 64" screen is definitely at the very low end of video projection where flat screen TVs make more sense. I would never think of spending all that money on an HW45ES for that small a screen. For the same price as an HW45ES you could get a nice 65" 4K TV in the same space as that 64" projection screen and have a sharper, brighter image with 4K resolution and no worries about ambient light washing out the image.
I agree with your comments. Regarding TV versus projector I have two issues. First, my width (53") can only accept a 55" screen which is smaller than what I project right now (55" TVs are about 47" wide). The second issue is that LED TVs seem to look like video versus the smooth cinema quality from my Panasonic.

They only make OLEDs in a 55" model which is a lot smaller than my opening. 58" seems to be the right size for my opening and there are only LEDs available in this size. It would be really nice to have a TV for ambient light reasons. Thanks for your help.
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post #2571 of 2613 Old 01-20-2019, 11:29 AM
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@lind777 , I see now that you are really painted into a corner with that limited space you're working with and that a borderless projection screen is going to give you the maximum size image you can stuff into it. If you have no option to expand the available real estate for the screen then I can see where you'd favor a projector over a smaller TV screen. The HW45ES would give you a great 64" image if you can arrange for its lens to be even with a point no more than 10" under the bottom of the screen. If you can't raise the projector higher then your choices are going to be greatly limited.

By the way, for a 64" image the HW45ES 1.6x zoom lens allows for a throw of from 6' 4" to 10' 1" as measured from the front of the lens to the screen. If your projector is further than 10' 1" lens to screen then the HW45ES wouldn't work. In that case you might want to look at the Epson 4000/5000/6000 series. Those models all have a longer 2.1x zoom lens that would allow a 64" image from as 13' 1" away. They also have slightly more vertical lens shift than the HW45ES which might allow them to be mounted a few inches lower. They also have digital keystone correction if you absolutely must angle the projector up.
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post #2572 of 2613 Old 01-20-2019, 12:10 PM
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@Dave in Green Thank you so much for all your information and wisdom and for redirecting me to the Epson line. I would love to have the Sony but Epson seems to be more versatile for my setup. I start investigating. Most of my content is DVD quality so I probably don't want or need a 4K capable projector.
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post #2573 of 2613 Old 01-20-2019, 12:20 PM
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@lind777 , it's possible there may be another 1080p option that would work if you don't want to pay extra for 4K. Unfortunately there aren't many projectors even with substantial vertical lens shift that are designed to be mounted substantially lower than the bottom of the screen. One thing that would really help would be to know exactly how many inches off the ground the bottom of your screen and the center of your projector's lens are. Knowing the difference between those two heights will tell us exactly how much offset you need. Also knowing the exact distance from lens to screen can help eliminate projectors that don't have the correct throw range.
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post #2574 of 2613 Old 01-21-2019, 01:01 PM
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@lind777 , it's possible there may be another 1080p option that would work if you don't want to pay extra for 4K. Unfortunately there aren't many projectors even with substantial vertical lens shift that are designed to be mounted substantially lower than the bottom of the screen. One thing that would really help would be to know exactly how many inches off the ground the bottom of your screen and the center of your projector's lens are. Knowing the difference between those two heights will tell us exactly how much offset you need. Also knowing the exact distance from lens to screen can help eliminate projectors that don't have the correct throw range.
The bottom of the screen is 33" off the ground, the distance to the projector is 123" and the projector opening is 12" off the ground. Knowing minimum zoom and lens shift capabilities would be helpful. Thanks.
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post #2575 of 2613 Old 01-21-2019, 01:36 PM
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The bottom of the screen is 33" off the ground, the distance to the projector is 123" and the projector opening is 12" off the ground. Knowing minimum zoom and lens shift capabilities would be helpful. Thanks.
OK, first off, your 10' 3" throw eliminates the Sony HW45ES and several other potential options unless you could move it forward 3". The HW45ES and at least one other potential option that can't do 64" from 10' 3" could work at exactly 10' lens to screen. But there are no projectors with enough vertical lens shift to handle a 21" vertical offset from the bottom of a 64" screen without tilting the projector up and using digital keystone correction, and the HW45ES lacks keystone correction so it's out..

That's just an excessive amount of offset that almost no one uses. Even the Epson 4000/5000/6000 series that has the most available vertical lens shift would also need to use some digital keystone correction in addition to maximum vertical lens shift. The result would be a degraded image. It sounds as if you have accepted the image degradation from using digital keystone correction on your current projector so maybe you're also willing to accept it with a new projector as you don't seem interested in raising your projector higher.

From 10' the least expensive option would be the Epson Home Cinema 2150 using a lot of keystone correction. The Optoma HD39Darbee is the only other often recommended option <$1,000 that could work using a lot of keystone correction. Moving >$1,000 the Epson 3000 series could work using maximum vertical lens shift and a fair amount of keystone correction. Next step up in price is the Epson 4000 series, which could work with maximum vertical lens shift and some keystone correction. Those are the best options for <$2,000.
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post #2576 of 2613 Old 01-21-2019, 01:48 PM
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OK, first off, your 10' 3" throw eliminates the Sony HW45ES and several other potential options unless you could move it forward 3". The HW45ES and at least one other potential option that can't do 64" from 10' 3" could work at exactly 10' lens to screen. But there are no projectors with enough vertical lens shift to handle a 21" vertical offset from the bottom of a 64" screen without tilting the projector up and using digital keystone correction, and the HW45ES lacks keystone correction so it's out..

That's just an excessive amount of offset that almost no one uses. Even the Epson 4000/5000/6000 series that has the most available vertical lens shift would also need to use some digital keystone correction in addition to maximum vertical lens shift. The result would be a degraded image. It sounds as if you have accepted the image degradation from using digital keystone correction on your current projector so maybe you're also willing to accept it with a new projector as you don't seem interested in raising your projector higher.

From 10' the least expensive option would be the Epson Home Cinema 2150 using a lot of keystone correction. The Optoma HD39Darbee is the only other often recommended option <$1,000 that could work using a lot of keystone correction. Moving >$1,000 the Epson 3000 series could work using maximum vertical lens shift and a fair amount of keystone correction. Next step up in price is the Epson 4000 series, which could work with maximum vertical lens shift and some keystone correction. Those are the best options for <$2,000.
Thanks Dave. I think I am going to rethink and move to getting a 55" TV. Most likely either an LG B8 or C8 set. I wish they did not cost so much. I just think I would be so disappointed with an LED set even though you can get then for $299. My biggest concern is that I watch a lot of 720P/1080i content and hope that these new 4K sets upscalers don't butcher it.
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post #2577 of 2613 Old 01-21-2019, 03:40 PM
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Thanks Dave. I think I am going to rethink and move to getting a 55" TV. Most likely either an LG B8 or C8 set. I wish they did not cost so much. I just think I would be so disappointed with an LED set even though you can get then for $299. My biggest concern is that I watch a lot of 720P/1080i content and hope that these new 4K sets upscalers don't butcher it.
If you read the LCD and OLED forums some of the LCD models do come close to OLED in some areas. But no question that OLED produces the best overall image. As far as size goes it might be possible to get a 65" TV in that space if you overlap the edges of the screen in front of the cabinet edges. Recently another person on the forum with a similar size cabinet opening thought he was stuck with a 55" TV. Someone suggested using a wall mount with a flexible extension that allowed a 65" TV to float in front of the cabinet. The guy really resisted at first and then ended up trying it.

Just found the thread. It includes the whole adventure including pictures of the adjustable wall mount he bought to accommodate a 65" TV in a cabinet space he thought would only accommodate a 55" TV:

avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/3026882-would-you-put-tv-here.html
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post #2578 of 2613 Old 01-21-2019, 04:16 PM
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If you read the LCD and OLED forums some of the LCD models do come close to OLED in some areas. But no question that OLED produces the best overall image. As far as size goes it might be possible to get a 65" TV in that space if you overlap the edges of the screen in front of the cabinet edges. Recently another person on the forum with a similar size cabinet opening thought he was stuck with a 55" TV. Someone suggested using a wall mount with a flexible extension that allowed a 65" TV to float in front of the cabinet. The guy really resisted at first and then ended up trying it.

Just found the thread. It includes the whole adventure including pictures of the adjustable wall mount he bought to accommodate a 65" TV in a cabinet space he thought would only accommodate a 55" TV:

avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/3026882-would-you-put-tv-here.html
Interesting. I think I will need to stick with a 55" as the 65" is two in hes to wide for my furniture. Thanks so much!
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post #2579 of 2613 Old 01-25-2019, 11:18 AM
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Darbee or reality creation Sony HW45ES

Anyone use the Darbee with a Sony Hw45es? Is it worth out or do I just stick with reality creation.
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post #2580 of 2613 Old 01-25-2019, 11:55 AM
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I have the 45ES, and recently heard how great the Darbee 5000s is. Anyone use one with their 45? I wonder if I should turn off Sony's enhancements (reality creation etc) if I was to get a Darbee.

Home Theater: Marantz AV7703 Prepro, B&K Reference 200.2 SII running Mirage M-3SIs, Harman Kardon signature 2.1 running Mirage M-CSI (center) & 4x BIC V-52 (surrounds),
Samson S1000 (545 watts x2) running 2 SVS CS-Ultra subs, PS3, PS4, XBOX 1, 2x Adcom ACE-515, Sony HW45ES projector w/ 125" screen or Vizio 70"

SYS 2: Quicksilver Linestage Preamp, Proceed BPA2 amp, Tekton Lore-S spks.
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