Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread - Page 148 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4411 of 18073 Old 12-23-2016, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Just got my 5040 today and playing with it now.

I have basically out the box settings.

I only changed the auto iris to normal, power to eco, FI to low, and 4K enhancement to 3. Then have my Oppo 103d darbee setting to high def 35%.

I cannot believe the picture over my Benq w1070. You see so much more detail and contrast.


Yea same, I had a BenQ 2050 and while I loved it... This pj blows it away, not even close to comparison. And the 4k content is simply mind blowing.
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post #4412 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 06:27 AM
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For anyone holding out on a purchase of a faux K projector such as one of the Epsons, to see what kind of competition the new JVC true 4K projector might pose against the higly priced true 4K Sony line, it appears that the question has been answered...

MSRP $35,000...

The 5040/6040 looks better and better...
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https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...-profiles.html

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post #4413 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 08:26 AM
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Been playing around this morning. I was doing comparison between the Benq and the 5040. I still have my Benq ceiling mounted and the 5040 below it shooting just over my seats temporarily.

One thing I noticed this morning and no matter what settings I have tried, when watching DIRECTV I get a noticeable slight jump or jitter in the picture. I can make it happen easy when having the guide open. If I push the bottom to browse the guide every time you hit the button the picture jumps very slightly. On some DIRECTV menus it does the same thing. I know it's not just when in menus and guides because when I watch say NFL or something like CNN / fox, you can see the jump in the bottom ticker or text. Like anything that has a fixed image, but the whole image jumps.

I tried straight to the 5040 from the DIRECTV box, reset DTV box, menu setting, all types of 5040 settings (FI, 4K enhance, etc) and nothing works.

Funny thing is it does not do,it on my Benq or Sony tv. Also if I bring up the 5040 menu the menu does not jump, but the DIRECTV image behind does. Any things I can try.

Below is bluray 1080p daytime bright sun closed drapes.

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post #4414 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 08:28 AM
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When changing HDMI cables to see which is better,do you guys power down your equipment?
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post #4415 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
Wrong. HDMI 1.4 CAN transmit 4K resolution.
Sigh. It may be capable of (limited) 4K support as it simply does not have the bandwidth that many need for 4K usage. It will not support it at the 60Hz frame rate. Here is a quote for reference:

"HDMI 1.4 supported 4K resolutions, yes, but only at 24 or 30 frames per second. That works fine for movies, but isn't useful for gaming and many TV broadcasts, which require 50 or 60 fps."


https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...1.4+support+4K

My PRIMARY point was that once you "convert" DOWN to 1.4 you can't simply "up-convert" back to a higher bandwidth.

That logic doesn't work. It's like saying "I have a huge ocean and I am going to funnel it into a small channel and then when it gets to the other side of that channel, it will be an ocean again". That may be partially true IF you do not take into consideration all the variables. Certainly the other side could... EVENTUALLY become an ocean but the signal is REAL TIME traffic and you need TIME to build the ocean on the other side and that is one thing you are not afforded so...
you can't simply "up-convert" a 1.4 to a 2.0 HDMI on that other side of the channel and expect it to have 2.0 bandwidth

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Last edited by ndabunka; 12-24-2016 at 09:30 AM.
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post #4416 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Been playing around this morning. I was doing comparison between the Benq and the 5040. I still have my Benq ceiling mounted and the 5040 below it shooting just over my seats temporarily.

One thing I noticed this morning and no matter what settings I have tried, when watching DIRECTV I get a noticeable slight jump or jitter in the picture. I can make it happen easy when having the guide open. If I push the bottom to browse the guide every time you hit the button the picture jumps very slightly. On some DIRECTV menus it does the same thing. I know it's not just when in menus and guides because when I watch say NFL or something like CNN / fox, you can see the jump in the bottom ticker or text. Like anything that has a fixed image, but the whole image jumps.

I tried straight to the 5040 from the DIRECTV box, reset DTV box, menu setting, all types of 5040 settings (FI, 4K enhance, etc) and nothing works.

Funny thing is it does not do,it on my Benq or Sony tv. Also if I bring up the 5040 menu the menu does not jump, but the DIRECTV image behind does. Any things I can try.

Below is bluray 1080p daytime bright sun closed drapes.
I don't KNOW that this is the case but others have reported that menus often run at a different frequency than the picture signals

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post #4417 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndabunka View Post
I don't KNOW that this is the case but others have reported that menus often run at a different frequency than the picture signals
I thought about that too, but with no menus up I can still see the jumping.

I have been playing around and it will not do it when I change DIRECTV to 720p or if I watch a 1080p on demand movie. So right there it has something to do with 1080i interlaced.

It does not happen on my tv or Benq being fed the same box. So maybe it's a hiccup with the 5040. Plot thickens.
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post #4418 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
I thought about that too, but with no menus up I can still see the jumping.

I have been playing around and it will not do it when I change DIRECTV to 720p or if I watch a 1080p on demand movie. So right there it has something to do with 1080i interlaced.

It does not happen on my tv or Benq being fed the same box. So maybe it's a hiccup with the 5040. Plot thickens.
If you had CABLE versus Satellite it would not jump around
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post #4419 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by drhankz View Post
If you had CABLE versus Satellite it would not jump around
Lol, I had Comcast until 10 months ago. Our hoa got rid of Comcast.

Everything works perfect before I introduced the 5040 yesterday. I just think the 5040 has an issue with interlaced. I'm going to try other things.
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post #4420 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Lol, I had Comcast until 10 months ago. Our hoa got rid of Comcast.

Everything works perfect before I introduced the 5040 yesterday. I just think the 5040 has an issue with interlaced. I'm going to try other things.

The fact it worked before means nothing
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post #4421 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by drhankz View Post
The fact it worked before means nothing
Your right, but I have bypassed everything in the chain and directly connected to the 5040. Also tried multiple hdmi cables to rule things out. The fact I can reproduce it with interlaced vs progressive means something being sent or decoded by the 5040 is not right.
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post #4422 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by dholmes54 View Post
When changing HDMI cables to see which is better,do you guys power down your equipment?
I've never powered down anything, just remove the old one and connect the new one.
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post #4423 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Your right, but I have bypassed everything in the chain and directly connected to the 5040. Also tried multiple hdmi cables to rule things out. The fact I can reproduce it with interlaced vs progressive means something being sent or decoded by the 5040 is not right.
Why even bother with an interlaced signal AT ALL? Just change the the Sat receivers ouput to 720p as that is the same volume of content as 1080i

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post #4424 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndabunka View Post
Why even bother with an interlaced signal AT ALL? Just change the the Sat receivers ouput to 720p as that is the same volume of content as 1080i
That is what I have done for now.
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post #4425 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 11:58 AM
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Thxs Rob
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post #4426 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 12:49 PM
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Ok guys I figured the jumping / jitter out.
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post #4427 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndabunka View Post
Sigh. It may be capable of (limited) 4K support as it simply does not have the bandwidth that many need for 4K usage. It will not support it at the 60Hz frame rate. Here is a quote for reference:

"HDMI 1.4 supported 4K resolutions, yes, but only at 24 or 30 frames per second. That works fine for movies, but isn't useful for gaming and many TV broadcasts, which require 50 or 60 fps."


https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...1.4+support+4K

My PRIMARY point was that once you "convert" DOWN to 1.4 you can't simply "up-convert" back to a higher bandwidth.

That logic doesn't work. It's like saying "I have a huge ocean and I am going to funnel it into a small channel and then when it gets to the other side of that channel, it will be an ocean again". That may be partially true IF you do not take into consideration all the variables. Certainly the other side could... EVENTUALLY become an ocean but the signal is REAL TIME traffic and you need TIME to build the ocean on the other side and that is one thing you are not afforded so...
you can't simply "up-convert" a 1.4 to a 2.0 HDMI on that other side of the channel and expect it to have 2.0 bandwidth
I'm glad you looked that up, so now you know.

The OP never actually said anything about converting 2.2 to 1.4 and then back to 2.2 again.
He just wanted to convert 2.2 to 1.4 since his in-wall cable might not be up to snuff.

It remains unknown if he could convert down to 1.4 and still retain 4K, even it it's limited to 4:2:0 / 8b / 24/30.
Retain WCG and HDR too?... I doubt that. Probably just better to be content with the conversion to 1.4.
BEsides, his cable may actually work fine for 2.2 based on his description.
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post #4428 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Ok guys I figured the jumping / jitter out.
and it was...

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post #4429 of 18073 Old 12-24-2016, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndabunka View Post
and it was...
Advanced

Deinterlacing

Deinterlacing: sets whether to convert interlaced-to-progressive signals for certain video image types

• Off: for fast-moving video images
• Video: for most video images
• Film/Auto: for movies, computer graphics, and animation

It was set for Film/Auto by default, changing to Video solved it.
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post #4430 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by trainfan View Post
so in wireless mode it will not support a 4k signal ? "(4k x 2k) or 3840 x 2160"
then what is the point of even offering the wireless version ???
Did you ever get an answer for this?

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post #4431 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 12:51 PM
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Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours.

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post #4432 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 01:58 PM
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[QUOTE=flapjackdowntheline;49277977]Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours.

That stinks; hopefully it's an easy fix.
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post #4433 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 02:07 PM
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Fast questions. I just took down my 5020UB and installed my 5040UBE. Haven't had time to play with the settings yet. I see about updating firmware on the 5040. Will it be able to be set up to connect to the internet using Wi Fi for updates?

Also will the 3D glasses from my 5020 be able to be used with the 5040?

Thanks.

Brian
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post #4434 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 02:10 PM
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[quote=Rob Simkow;49278913]
Quote:
Originally Posted by flapjackdowntheline View Post
Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours.

That stinks; hopefully it's an easy fix.
Just for kicks I decided to update the firmware, which'd I'd been putting off. No more error message. That's good, I hope.
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post #4435 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by flapjackdowntheline View Post
Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours.

That stinks. Try every including a hard reset of at all possible.

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post #4436 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 02:23 PM
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Does anyone know if the 5040 can be controlled by iRule thru IP?
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post #4437 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Oledurt View Post
can't get lens memory to work right. I have a new cinemascope widescreen. I have saved the lens setting for 16x9 perfectly accurate, but when I zoom out and save the lens memory for the 2.40.1 aspect ratio it does not accurately recall that position. For example, I hit lens 2 it moves to the 16x9 setting perfectly. I hit lens 1 it goes back to widescreen setting however it is off from the original saved setting.

i have saved, readjusted, and re saved countless times, no matter what I do it will not accurately save that zoomed out wide lens position accurately
You have to setup your zoom and alignment then let it just sit there for at least 2 minutes then save it
It is a known bug, but will finally save your setting correctly
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post #4438 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SALadder22FF View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by trainfan View Post
so in wireless mode it will not support a 4k signal ? "(4k x 2k) or 3840 x 2160"
then what is the point of even offering the wireless version ???
Did you ever get an answer for this?
Yes it will
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post #4439 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Does anyone know if the 5040 can be controlled by iRule thru IP?
It's my understanding you can't. I'm running Simple Control; while not iRule, if I understand correctly they both operate under the same premise. I control my 5040 through an iTach IR Remitter that Simple Control recognizes. I stuck the transmitter onto the back sensor of the projector. Works great! I would think you'd be able to do the same thing with iRule. I'm hoping I'll be to control via IP at some point but haven't been able to yet.

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Last edited by Raffy87; 12-25-2016 at 03:19 PM.
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post #4440 of 18073 Old 12-25-2016, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Raffy87 View Post
It's my understanding you can't. I'm running Simple Control; while not iRule, if I understand correctly they both operate under the same premise. I control my 5040 through an iTach IR Remitter that Simple Control recognizes. I stuck the transmitter onto the back sensor of the projector. Works great! I would think you'd be able to do the same thing with iRule. I'm hoping I'll be to control via IP at some point but haven't been able to yet.
Thanks, I might mess around and see what I can come up with.
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