Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread - Page 155 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4621 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 05:49 AM
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What is the latest firmware revision for the 5040 and where would I download the latest firmware from?
I can't find it anywhere on Epson's website.

Help!!!

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post #4622 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRSD View Post
What is the latest firmware revision for the 5040 and where would I download the latest firmware from?
I can't find it anywhere on Epson's website.

Help!!!
https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

1.08/1.04

Second section from the bottom or CTRL+F 5040
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post #4623 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRSD View Post
What is the latest firmware revision for the 5040 and where would I download the latest firmware from?
I can't find it anywhere on Epson's website.

Help!!!
https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
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post #4624 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Despoiler View Post
https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

1.08/1.04

Second section from the bottom or CTRL+F 5040
Quote:
Originally Posted by mase1981 View Post
Thank you!!!
For some reason, I couldn't find it

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post #4625 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 09:41 AM
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The Epson 6040/9300 shows up in the Cine4Home test of the Acer 4k DLP projector in some comparison shots. However, the Epson screenshots look like the panel alignment is way off. If that Epson was mine I'd be taking a very close look at the panel settings...

http://cine4home.de/test-premiere-ac...eback-von-dlp/

The comparison shot of the street signs makes it look like the Epson was dropped from a height. Not sure what that does for their credibility.
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post #4626 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjguk View Post
The Epson 6040/9300 shows up in the Cine4Home test of the Acer 4k DLP projector in some comparison shots. However, the Epson screenshots look like the panel alignment is way off. If that Epson was mine I'd be taking a very close look at the panel settings...

http://cine4home.de/test-premiere-ac...eback-von-dlp/

The comparison shot of the street signs makes it look like the Epson was dropped from a height. Not sure what that does for their credibility.
Yea I think the blue was at least off on the Epson. Still the Acer looks great in those shots, but with a CR of 1600 at best, I wouldn't even consider it. I'd rather have my Epson 5030UB than that. I still have a Benq W6000 with that level of contrast and it totally sucks compared to the 5030.

They did mention something I've thought all along though. The only way a projector can do HDR well is with high ANSI contrast. Absolute brightness and on/off contrast isn't enough.
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post #4627 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Despoiler View Post
https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

1.08/1.04

Second section from the bottom or CTRL+F 5040
My freshly minted 6040UB is at firmware 1.51, this makes me wonder if the firmware on the link is outdated.

Last edited by LumenChip; 01-02-2017 at 11:10 AM.
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post #4628 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by LumenChip View Post
My newly installed 6040UB is at firmware 1.51, this makes me wonder if the firmware on the link is outdated.
Could be why the firmware isn't directly linked off the device's support page.

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post #4629 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 11:12 AM
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want to get a projector and I really like this one(already have a vizio p55 and want a larger screen for movies while still being able to keep 4k and hdr) my throw from wall to where I can put the screen is exactly 120" is this projector a viable option?

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post #4630 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
In your pictures it looks like you have a back cover on the Epson. Is that one and if so where did you get it?
The back cover only comes included with the wireless version of the 5040.
This is because you can set up the 5040UBe so that the only cable connected is the power cable.
Thus, you do not need the physical connections on the back of the unit, like the HDMI inputs. So those inputs can be covered up.
If you are using the standard/non-wireless 5040, then you must use HDMI or other cables, and when doing that then the cover can not be placed on the back since the cable(s) are in the way, so the cover is not included with the non-wireless version.

It does seem like they could have easily cut a couple of holes in the panel for HDMI cables to go through while still being able to cover the rear input panel. I mean it's only plastic panel, and it was already developed for the projector, so seems like something small they could have included for the $3000 price paid.

However there are a lot of other features I would rather see that we probably won't, which is disappointing.
Like being able to save BLANKING and HDR modes to specific memory saves, and a proper zoom mode to counter the curvature of a curved screen, and a vertical stretch mode for use with anamorphic lenses.
It's unfortunate that this projector seems to cater more to the gaming demographic rather than the home theater one.
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post #4631 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndabunka View Post
There is a KNOWN issue with the Oppo erroneously sending an overly red/wrong signal. You may want to go to the official Oppo 203 thread for details (why, how, when a fix might come, etc) as the red shift is not due to either the UHD content nor the Epson projector
That is only when using the experimental STRIP METADATA setting in the 203.
There is no red push when using the player normally with HDR set to AUTO, ON, or OFF.
The issues with STRIP METADATA and other bugs should be fixed soon with firmware updates.
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post #4632 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
The back cover only comes included with the wireless version of the 5040.
This is because you can set up the 5040UBe so that the only cable connected is the power cable.
Thus, you do not need the physical connections on the back of the unit, like the HDMI inputs. So those inputs can be covered up.
If you are using the standard/non-wireless 5040, then you must use HDMI or other cables, and when doing that then the cover can not be placed on the back since the cable(s) are in the way, so the cover is not included with the non-wireless version.

It does seem like they could have easily cut a couple of holes in the panel for HDMI cables to go through while still being able to cover the rear input panel. I mean it's only plastic panel, and it was already developed for the projector, so seems like something small they could have included for the $3000 price paid.

However there are a lot of other features I would rather see that we probably won't, which is disappointing.
Like being able to save BLANKING and HDR modes to specific memory saves, and a proper zoom mode to counter the curvature of a curved screen, and a vertical stretch mode for use with anamorphic lenses.
It's unfortunate that this projector seems to cater more to the gaming demographic rather than the home theater one.
Back panel comes with the 6040 as well...FYI.

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post #4633 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamAttewell View Post
Ok but how do I know I have set the brightness level correctly?

As when Auto/normal is enabled I cant see above reference black (level 16) because the epson is clipping it.

How do I know I have the correct brightness level?
All you need to do is turn brightness down until you can not see the 18 marker on screen.
Then raise brightness until you see the 18 marker and you are good to go.

You aren't actually supposed to see anything below 18 (maybe just a smidge of 17).
Just because you can see BTB when using expanded RGB doesn't make it better.

I also saw some comments when you were claiming to adjust CONTRAST with that pattern.
The BTB patterns are only for BRIGHTNESS, and the WTW patterns are only for CONTRAST.
While they can sometimes affect each other, just go back and forth between the patters and make sure they both look correct.
If you adjust brightness to see 16, then make a large adjustment to contrast, you may have to change brightness by a notch to counter it,
but not always, but just remember that brightness is used for the dark BTB patterns, and contrast is used for the bright WTW patterns.

Last edited by Smarty-pants; 01-02-2017 at 06:54 PM.
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post #4634 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Budny View Post
Took some comparison shots of my 5040UB playing the Magnificent 7 Blu-ray on the Oppo 203 and then the 4K Ultra HD disc.

In the composite images the first picture is the Blu-ray (it is being upconverted by the Oppo 203 and it is in the Bright Cinema color mode), the second is the 4K disc defaulted in Bright Cinema to HDR 2 and the third image is the 4K disc in Bright Cinema with the HDR 1 preset.

I have not calibrated the projector so all picture settings are default.







Those are excellent screenshot comparisons. Thank you so much for posting them.
Obviously a lot of discussion follows them for good reason.

As another poster suggested, you really do want to use either the DIGITAL CINEMA or CINEMA color modes since those two color modes are the ones with the proper filter in place for the wider color gamuts.
While the default settings of the 5040 are actually quite good, you will benefit from doing at least a basic calibration of brightness/contrast/color/tint to make sure you get the best possible picture outside of a more in depth calibration.

It would also be fantastic to see some screenshots with the STRIP METADATA mode enabled in the Oppo 203 to demonstrate what it looks like compared to the other screenshots. However, as I mentioned above, that function in the 203 is still experimental and not working properly yet, so better to wait until a firmware update fixes it.

I always have such a hard time getting good screenshot pics of my setup.
I don't do a lot of photography outside of just using my phone, but my phone has a really nice mode that takes great shots of stuff in low lighting, but impossible to do without setting up something like a tripod to do it with.
I need to find a cheap tripod I can use with my phone for such things.
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post #4635 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 12:54 PM
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Like me, you must live near Cincinnati?
yes. I am in wayne township. kinda in between hamilton and middletown.
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post #4636 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by chiltonj View Post
Back panel comes with the 6040 as well...FYI.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Well that shoots my theory all to hell then, lol.
I wonder why the 5040 doesn't come with the panel.
Am I correct that it can't effectively be used when cables are attached to the rear?
If so then that is odd that it is even included with the 6040, UNLESS perhaps somehow the 6040 is compatible with the wireless hub that comes with the 5040UBe, or perhaps they were planning on that but decided before release not to include it with the 6040.
That's all just guessing, but just food for thought...
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post #4637 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
Well that shoots my theory all to hell then, lol.
I wonder why the 5040 doesn't come with the panel.
Am I correct that it can't effectively be used when cables are attached to the rear?
If so then that is odd that it is even included with the 6040, UNLESS perhaps somehow the 6040 is compatible with the wireless hub that comes with the 5040UBe, or perhaps they were planning on that but decided before release not to include it with the 6040.
That's all just guessing, but just food for thought...
As much I wanted to mount the back panel on my 6040, I refrained myself after seeing the pressure it exerts on the HDMI cable (almost making it torn in 90 degree). For the fear of it causing issues to the cable, I boxed it up and tucked it away.
I guess it makes sense only on wireless units and/or with the HDMI cables that are thin and flexible.
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post #4638 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by aaranddeeman View Post
As much I wanted to mount the back panel on my 6040, I refrained myself after seeing the pressure it exerts on the HDMI cable (almost making it torn in 90 degree). For the fear of it causing issues to the cable, I boxed it up and tucked it away.
I guess it makes sense only on wireless units and/or with the HDMI cables that are thin and flexible.
If I had one I would try just cutting a hole in it so the HDMI cable could go through that and the rest covered up.
Honestly speaking though, it's not that big of a deal to me that the back is covered, and mine really is out in the
open where everyone can see the back, but I would trade that for Epson fixing some of their issues instead.
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post #4639 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by aaranddeeman View Post
As much I wanted to mount the back panel on my 6040, I refrained myself after seeing the pressure it exerts on the HDMI cable (almost making it torn in 90 degree). For the fear of it causing issues to the cable, I boxed it up and tucked it away.
I guess it makes sense only on wireless units and/or with the HDMI cables that are thin and flexible.
Ditto, same here.

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post #4640 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
If I had one I would try just cutting a hole in it so the HDMI cable could go through that and the rest covered up.
Honestly speaking though, it's not that big of a deal to me that the back is covered, and mine really is out in the
open where everyone can see the back, but I would trade that for Epson fixing some of their issues instead.
Mine is smokey black plastic to match the 6040, not sure what color the one is with the wireless. I'd hope that it matches the unit, assuming white.

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post #4641 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 01:59 PM
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Potentially dumb observation: projector info shows input information. I don't see output information which would be nice to see input 1080p and 4k out with enhancement on. Guess the projector doesn't upconvert the signal per se.

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post #4642 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
Well that shoots my theory all to hell then, lol.
I wonder why the 5040 doesn't come with the panel.
Am I correct that it can't effectively be used when cables are attached to the rear?
If so then that is odd that it is even included with the 6040, UNLESS perhaps somehow the 6040 is compatible with the wireless hub that comes with the 5040UBe, or perhaps they were planning on that but decided before release not to include it with the 6040.
That's all just guessing, but just food for thought...
My 4040 came with the back panel also. There is enough spacing that i was able to get all the extra power cord that was left and my regular hdmi inside.
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post #4643 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
If I had one I would try just cutting a hole in it so the HDMI cable could go through that and the rest covered up.
Honestly speaking though, it's not that big of a deal to me that the back is covered, and mine really is out in the
open where everyone can see the back, but I would trade that for Epson fixing some of their issues instead.
Sounds like a good idea.
I will think about it when the "newness" of this PJ is over..
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post #4644 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
If I had one I would try just cutting a hole in it so the HDMI cable could go through that and the rest covered up.
Honestly speaking though, it's not that big of a deal to me that the back is covered, and mine really is out in the
open where everyone can see the back, but I would trade that for Epson fixing some of their issues instead.
there must be different covers or something because my back cover fit a bunch of cord plus my hdmi cable no problem, the cable isnt smashed against the back or anything. here is a couple pics trying to show the room in behind it and showing the power cord wound up inside it.
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post #4645 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bigboar View Post
there must be different covers or something because my back cover fit a bunch of cord plus my hdmi cable no problem, the cable isnt smashed against the back or anything. here is a couple pics trying to show the room in behind it and showing the power cord wound up inside it.
Yes. It's the same. Depends on how stiff the cable is. Unless you have some slack in the cable, it will make hard 90 degree turn.
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post #4646 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 04:37 PM
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Yes. It's the same. Depends on how stiff the cable is. Unless you have some slack in the cable, it will make hard 90 degree turn.
Ok. makes sense.
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post #4647 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 04:43 PM
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Honestly, I am enjoying the HDR once I started watching it without any prejudice. Even in the Cinema mode that is supposed to be the lease lumen mode on Epson.
I would like to reiterate again. HDR looks fantastic. Just watched Lucy..
Just do the following
- Pick a right movie (e.g. Lucy, X-men Apocalypse)
- Set the mode to HDR1
- Watch the movie start to end and don't keep flipping between SDR and HDR

There are right lumens at right places. E.g. in Lucy when she crosses 80% there us scene where there is full white background and Lucy in foreground in black attire. That white is so freakin bright (even in Cinema mode).
So yeah. HDR is for me now. I have stopped complaining.

Stop flipping, Start enjoying... That should be your new year's resolution..
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post #4648 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 05:29 PM
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How does one buy a warrantied 6040? I searched the Epson website without finding any list of authorized dealers.

From an installer, I assume, but my AV guy is not authorized Epson (though he'd love to sell me a JVC...)

If via Magnolia - they aren't on the website.

Nothing online (eBay) seems to be authorized.

Thanks.

Edit/solved:

So as not to further clutter the thread with this, and in case I'm not the only one who looked here, but found *no* "where to buy" link - here is a link the very helpful kaotikr1 sent me.

Last edited by ht guy; 01-03-2017 at 05:34 PM.
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post #4649 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 05:33 PM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaranddeeman View Post
I would like to reiterate again. HDR looks fantastic. Just watched Lucy..
Just do the following
- Pick a right movie (e.g. Lucy, X-men Apocalypse)
- Set the mode to HDR1
- Watch the movie start to end and don't keep flipping between SDR and HDR

There are right lumens at right places. E.g. in Lucy when she crosses 80% there us scene where there is full white background and Lucy in foreground in black attire. That white is so freakin bright (even in Cinema mode).
So yeah. HDR is for me now. I have stopped complaining.

Stop flipping, Start enjoying... That should be your new year's resolution..
I also just happened to have watch Lucy last night as well. The only thing I do differently is that I bump up the brightness to 60 and the contrast to 54. Leave the Gamma alone at defualt of 0. I can't recall if I have super white on or off but agree with the clean room-type scenes being well represented. However, my "pay attention" scenes were the ones with the wide variety of colors as she went from time period to time period. Stunning!
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post #4650 of 18050 Old 01-02-2017, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
All you need to do is turn brightness down until you can not see the 16 marker on screen.
Then raise brightness until you see the 16 marker and you are good to go.

You aren't actually supposed to see anything below 16.
Just because you can see BTB when using expanded RGB doesn't make it better.

I also saw some comments when you were claiming to adjust CONTRAST with that pattern.
The BTB patterns are only for BRIGHTNESS, and the WTW patterns are only for CONTRAST.
While they can sometimes affect each other, just go back and forth between the patters and make sure they both look correct.
If you adjust brightness to see 16, then make a large adjustment to contrast, you may have to change brightness by a notch to counter it,
but not always, but just remember that brightness is used for the dark BTB patterns, and contrast is used for the bright WTW patterns.
I know that you are not supposed to see below 16 but the point of the pattern is to ascertain the correct brightness setting.

If you can't see levels 16 or below how do you know the brightness control is set correctly?

You can't see the bars flashing to indicate the control is set to high which makes it very hard to set correctly.

I apologise if I incorrectly referred to contrast instead of brightness.
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