Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread - Page 475 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14221 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 12:10 PM
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Long time listener, first time caller.

I'm finally getting a proper home theater and have some things in mind that I'd like to run by you all.

I've settled on the Epson 5040UB for my projector. The room is 21ft (252in) front to back and 12.5ft (148in) across, controlled for ambient light. I'm planning on a 120in wide 130in diagonal 2.39 screen, 50in CIH. (Question 1- projector central calls it 2.4, this website uses 2.35, actual scope is 2.39- is it just verbiage or are there actual differences in screen sizes and projected images to worry about?)

The wall the screen will be on is 8ft(90in) tall. I plan to center the screen vertically (leaving 15in top and bottom) and horizontally (leaving 14in on sides).

I have two constraints. There is a riser and the furthest back the front row can sit is 9ft. This works pretty well I think- my eye level is about 36in in a recliner, which puts it at 1/3 screen height, leaving a 15deg vertical viewing angle for the top two thirds of the screen. The ceiling vaults to 10ft where the projector will be mounted, and throw distance is 13.5ft(162in). It can move a little further back, but it's prewired for projector install at that location.

Question 2 is, does that throw work for this setup and projector?

On the Epson site projector distance calculator I've entered the following- 16:9, ceiling mount, 10ft width (I'll only have 2.39 for 10ft, but this is the only way to enter 10ft width), ceiling height 10ft, floor to screen 1'3". This gives a Throw distance 13' 7.1" - 28' 6.2" [Ft/in], so my set up appears to barely be within range for throw distance. On the projector central review of the 5040UB they say at the front of the range is better, however using their calculator and a 1.1 gain screen it puts me outside of the 'green' area and into the "recommended image brightness for rooms with ambient light" range. Should that be a concern?

From the vaulted ceiling to center of the screen is 5ft4in (64in). With a drop ceiling mount, I figure it'll come down another 1ft, so make it 4ft4in (52in) from lens to screen center. Using the Epson lens shift checker and 120in wide 16:9 it shows +/- 5ft5in is within range. So I'm ok there, right? The projection distance chart in the manual isn't exactly clear to me though.

Thanks!
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post #14222 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 02:09 PM
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Moved into a new home about a year ago and finally getting around to getting my media room setup. My new place won't have a dedicated room, so I'll have to share the family room with my family.

Couple questions:
  1. How is this projector with ambient light? It seems like a very bright PJ. My room is mostly naturally dark due to the shape and location of it in the house, but there would still be some ambient light during prime viewing periods. Throw distance would be about 18 or 19 feet, considering a 130" diag. screen.
  2. How is the 3D and which glasses work with it? (I know that 3D requires a lot of light, so it wouldn't be something we would watch all the time) I have some Xpand glasses from an old PJ and wondering if these will work or not.

Thanks in advance.

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post #14223 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikesp1 View Post
Seymour XD screen, 2.2meter diagonal.


Your using a white high gain screen so it makes sense you can get away with eco. Mine is a dark grey alr with the same gain. The effect is almost like a tv with hdr because the high lamp allows me to drive white brightness while being able to maintain inky blacks. If you tried that on your screen it would wash out the whole image.


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post #14224 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 02:44 PM
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Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post
Moved into a new home about a year ago and finally getting around to getting my media room setup. My new place won't have a dedicated room, so I'll have to share the family room with my family.



Couple questions:
  1. How is this projector with ambient light? It seems like a very bright PJ. My room is mostly naturally dark due to the shape and location of it in the house, but there would still be some ambient light during prime viewing periods. Throw distance would be about 18 or 19 feet, considering a 130" diag. screen.
  2. How is the 3D and which glasses work with it? (I know that 3D requires a lot of light, so it wouldn't be something we would watch all the time) I have some Xpand glasses from an old PJ and wondering if these will work or not.



Thanks in advance.




This is a 100” 1.2 gain alr screen in high ambient light, which I think is pretty awesome ambient light performance. The projector really is very bright. At your throw and size I would definitely go with an alr material. The Elite Cinegrey 3D is a fantastic cheap ALR screen. If you have cash to burn look at a darkstar9 or Black Diamond.

The 3D performance is excellent once again an alr screen only helps with 3D

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post #14225 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrcusVaruna View Post
The 3D performance is excellent once again an alr screen only helps with 3D
Which 3D glasses do you use with the Epson?

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post #14226 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrcusVaruna View Post


This is a 100” 1.2 gain alr screen in high ambient light, which I think is pretty awesome ambient light performance. The projector really is very bright. At your throw and size I would definitely go with an alr material. The Elite Cinegrey 3D is a fantastic cheap ALR screen. If you have cash to burn look at a darkstar9 or Black Diamond.

The 3D performance is excellent once again an alr screen only helps with 3D

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WoW, that looks way too bright. I guess everybody perceives image differently but I would never watch that bright. Doesn't look natural to my eyes.
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post #14227 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 03:36 PM
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Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread

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Originally Posted by migsta View Post
WoW, that looks way too bright. I guess everybody perceives image differently but I would never watch that bright. Doesn't look natural to my eyes.


The picture is not true I was trying to do my best to capture both the image and the ambient light with an iPhone. As a result the image is blown out compared to what it looks like in person. This is a bit closer but it’s really hard to capture a true image from an iPhone in ambient light lol



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post #14228 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by migsta View Post
I just had my 3rd one die because of a power supply issue. The original one died, the second one died and now the third one (the third one Epson guaranteed was brand new and devoid of the power supply issue) just died as well. This is a bull**** product with bull**** QC - pardon the language. I would get rid of it I could but now have to play endless projector roulette with Epson. They should be embarrassed. I've owned a 6010 and 6030 and didn't have any issue with those. This 6040UB I would avoid like the plague because of this issue. The last Epson tech support guy I talked to leaned to the fact that there are known "power supply issues" without stating it directly. I was guaranteed this last unit was not one of those but here we go again.
Just had my 3rd replacement sent yesterday. Supposedly a new unit, looks like new at least. They pulled the box inside and just shipped the projector so not double boxed like brand new. But, they say it's new and it looks new. Up and online and came shipped with 1.12. Third time, really 4th if you count the originally bought unit, is a charm so we shall see.

Still, I'm going to follow up with Epson because I'm on the fence about keeping this unit seeing ALL of the failures. No faith at all with this product. But, the next big thing is the upgrade to the 6040UB (not available yet) or the LS10500 at probably twice the cost. Some people are getting full refunds for their units because of the failure. We'll see - following up with my dealer and his Epson rep. Good luck ALL with those who experience this issue and continued luck to those who have not.
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post #14229 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post
Which 3D glasses do you use with the Epson?

These ones are the best value with minimal crosstalk without being too dark and are the most comfortable to boot. I ordered 5 different kinds off amazon and these were by far my favorites so I returned the rest and bought 3 more of these.

EPSON-Compatible ValueView 3D Glasses. Rechargeable. ONE PAIR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACN8D9U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


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post #14230 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post
Which 3D glasses do you use with the Epson?
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrcusVaruna View Post
These ones are the best value with minimal crosstalk without being too dark and are the most comfortable to boot. I ordered 5 different kinds off amazon and these were by far my favorites so I returned the rest and bought 3 more of these.

EPSON-Compatible ValueView 3D Glasses. Rechargeable. ONE PAIR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACN8D9U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


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I concur with OrcusVaruna...I have six pair of the ValueVues...great performance, inexpensive, looks decent, light weight, and comfortable...even over prescription glasses. My research was done on the 3D Tech Talk thread and IMO, the most helpful post is this one by @Stecchino

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d...-compared.html

The available storage case from Amazon is very nice as well...
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Epson: 5040UB | Elite: 115" Fixed Frame CinemaScope (2.35:1) | Onkyo: TX-RZ920 + M-5010 (7.2.4) | Klipsch: RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II, RB-61 II MICCA: M-8C (Atmos) x 6 | SVS: PB16-Ultra x 2 | Philips: BDP7501, Panasonic: DMP UB900, Oppo: UDP-203

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post #14231 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 05:45 PM
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PS4 Pro with HDFury Linker. God of War 4K HDR







Believe it or not, the picture actually looks much sharper and crisp in person.

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Going to get the ps4 pro tonight, PS4 Pro is best correct?

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post #14232 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 06:08 PM
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I have HD fury linker hooked to xbox x can I run PS4 pro thru that linker st same time or do I need another linker? Or just manual switch them?

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post #14233 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jerryyng View Post
Is anyone here using the Epson 5040 with the Seymour XD or UF screen material? I'm looking to purchase a 2.35 format, 130" wide screen from Seymour AV but I'm on the fence over which material to select. First row seating is about 12' from screen so weave shouldn't be an issue and the room has no issues with ambient light.

I've been sampling the XD and UF materials side by side for the past few weeks and I don't notice a significant difference between the two most of the time. The XD material looks a bit brighter while the UF material seems to have better black levels.

Would appreciate hearing from anyone who is using either of these screen materials or has compared them using the Epson 5040 to get their thoughts.

Thanks.
I have a 150" 16:9 Seymour XD screen. I have first row seating about 11' back and I have to look very very hard and only on bright white scenes can I make out the weave. I went with the XD because I have a fully light controlled room so I felt like I didn't need any extra gain. Also, the UF has slightly less acoustic transparency. I think you will be happy with either choice. PS - I run HarperVision for HDR and it looks fantastic on the XD.

Pictures only do as much justice as the camera allows.
Spoiler!
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post #14234 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
I have HD fury linker hooked to xbox x can I run PS4 pro thru that linker st same time or do I need another linker? Or just manual switch them?

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Yes. Get the PS4 pro. That’s the one that can do 4K HDR gaming.

As far as the Linker, it has two inputs. So you can have both the Xbox and PS4 hooked up but you will have to switch on the Linker which Input you want to use. If you have an AVR Receiver, you can just run everything through the linker and then through Receiver.


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post #14235 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 06:57 PM
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Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread

...
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post #14236 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by OrcusVaruna View Post
...
I bet you're lots of fun at parties! Page 1 of this thread has like five posts by non-owners, so don't get all uppity.

But if there's a better place to ask specific questions for this specific item where multiple knowledgeable posters are likely to see, I'm all ears.
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post #14237 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 08:23 PM
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I bet you're lots of fun at parties! Page 1 of this thread has like five posts by non-owners, so don't get all uppity.



But if there's a better place to ask specific questions for this specific item where multiple knowledgeable posters are likely to see, I'm all ears.

I love how we all infer intent where none exists. The dots weren’t actually referring to anyone or anything. My Tapatalk freaked out and posted a bunch of weird characters after my last post. I couldn’t delete the post and you can’t edit it and leave it blank so I went with an ellipses to infer a blank post. But what do I know I’m just the jack*** that thinks he’s the “life” of the party.🥂


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post #14238 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 08:42 PM
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Talking

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Originally Posted by OrcusVaruna View Post
I love how we all infer intent where none exists. The dots weren’t actually referring to anyone or anything. My Tapatalk freaked out and posted a bunch of weird characters after my last post. I couldn’t delete the post and you can’t edit it and leave it blank so I went with an ellipses to infer a blank post. But what do I know I’m just the jack*** that thinks he’s the “life” of the party.🥂


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My apologies then. Above the ellipses in your post is the thread title- "Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread" which I took as a jab at those who aren't (yet) owners.
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post #14239 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 09:49 PM
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Sweet! I got the Pro
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post
Yes. Get the PS4 pro. That’s the one that can do 4K HDR gaming.

As far as the Linker, it has two inputs. So you can have both the Xbox and PS4 hooked up but you will have to switch on the Linker which Input you want to use. If you have an AVR Receiver, you can just run everything through the linker and then through Receiver.


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post #14240 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by OrcusVaruna View Post
Yes sir! It’s quite odd, color was so much easier to calibrate and noise is reduced as well compared with the same image enhancement settings as used in bright cinema. Also, shadow detail isn’t affected by switching between auto and auto bright like it is in bright cinema, only bright areas I noticed changes. Finally, I warmed up color temperature a lot as well because color overall was easier to calibrate. This allowed me to keep skin tones natural looking while using a much warmer color temp. I was unable to do same with bright cinema and had to cool down the image to maintain natural looking skin. I can’t wait to hear your thoughts


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I think these natural settings are a lot more realistic and richer.

With super white on it clips at 1,000nits, with it off 700 or so. Might look a touch better with it off as strange as that sounds...but will keep it on because I dont know how much detail you lose with it clipping at 700ish.

The auto bright is much different, bright cinema it sucks with these settings its better off in a game, but looks better on in a movie?

Still tweaking but these are amazing settings!

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post #14241 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 10:01 PM
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Judy did testing "auto bright" In lost tons of detail with it on

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post #14242 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 10:03 PM
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Just did testing. "Auto bright" make me lose lots of detail in movie also

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post #14243 of 17554 Old 04-27-2018, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
Just did testing. "Auto bright" make me lose lots of detail in movie also

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Scratch that, had another setting engaged.

So games = auto
Movies = auto bright

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post #14244 of 17554 Old 04-28-2018, 01:23 AM
 
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Originally Posted by OrcusVaruna View Post


This is a 100” 1.2 gain alr screen in high ambient light, which I think is pretty awesome ambient light performance. The projector really is very bright. At your throw and size I would definitely go with an alr material. The Elite Cinegrey 3D is a fantastic cheap ALR screen. If you have cash to burn look at a darkstar9 or Black Diamond.

The 3D performance is excellent once again an alr screen only helps with 3D

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The Dark Star 1.4 material was the best overhead light rejecting ALR screen I've ever owned. The Black Diamond 1.4 and .8 were the second best off axis light rejecting ALR screen I've owned. Currently the best off axis ALR screen I've owned is the Dark Energy Screens Pulsar screen.

I also owned a Elite Crooks Cinegrey 5D Aeon screen. It was a good budget material. I compare it's brightness and overhead/off axis light rejecting performance to the Screen Innovations Slate material.
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post #14245 of 17554 Old 04-28-2018, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by OrcusVaruna View Post
Your using a white high gain screen so it makes sense you can get away with eco. Mine is a dark grey alr with the same gain. The effect is almost like a tv with hdr because the high lamp allows me to drive white brightness while being able to maintain inky blacks. If you tried that on your screen it would wash out the whole image.


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Yes, I tried your setting and they are inderd completly washed out and extremely bright.
Your gsettings and gamma points are not that bad in eco mode. In fact one of the best settings I tried!
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post #14246 of 17554 Old 04-28-2018, 03:48 AM
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Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread

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Originally Posted by LumensLover View Post
The Dark Star 1.4 material was the best overhead light rejecting ALR screen I've ever owned. The Black Diamond 1.4 and .8 were the second best off axis light rejecting ALR screen I've owned. Currently the best off axis ALR screen I've owned is the Dark Energy Screens Pulsar screen.



I also owned a Elite Crooks Cinegrey 5D Aeon screen. It was a good budget material. I compare it's brightness and overhead/off axis light rejecting performance to the Screen Innovations Slate material.

I would love to get a Black Diamond or Dark Energy Pulsar but for now the Cinegrey 3D does a great job and my screen came with the new sable frame 2 which was extremely easy to put together and well made. All my parts were in the box and it took me less then an hr from opening the box to getting it on the wall. I was nervous after all the horror stories I read of frames being cut wrong, holes not lined up, parts missing, etc. I also got it on sale Black Friday also for $299.99 for a 100”. For that price I’m a very happy customer.

Just out of curiosity what is the cost of a Dark Energy Pulsar? I have seen one in person and it was a very impressive screen.


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post #14247 of 17554 Old 04-28-2018, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
I think these natural settings are a lot more realistic and richer.

With super white on it clips at 1,000nits, with it off 700 or so. Might look a touch better with it off as strange as that sounds...but will keep it on because I dont know how much detail you lose with it clipping at 700ish.

The auto bright is much different, bright cinema it sucks with these settings its better off in a game, but looks better on in a movie?

Still tweaking but these are amazing settings!

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I’m torn on autobright vs auto with these settings, I keep switching between the two. I think auto produces a much more natural image but autobright drives a simulated hdr effect that is pretty convincing but moves the image away from what the director intended.


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post #14248 of 17554 Old 04-28-2018, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikesp1 View Post
Yes, I tried your setting and they are inderd completly washed out and extremely bright.

Your gsettings and gamma points are not that bad in eco mode. In fact one of the best settings I tried!


Awesome I’m glad you like them


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post #14249 of 17554 Old 04-28-2018, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by thelonghop View Post
(Question 1- projector central calls it 2.4, this website uses 2.35, actual scope is 2.39- is it just verbiage or are there actual differences in screen sizes and projected images to worry about?)

The wall the screen will be on is 8ft(90in) tall. I plan to center the screen vertically (leaving 15in top and bottom) and horizontally (leaving 14in on sides).

I have two constraints. There is a riser and the furthest back the front row can sit is 9ft. This works pretty well I think- my eye level is about 36in in a recliner, which puts it at 1/3 screen height, leaving a 15deg vertical viewing angle for the top two thirds of the screen. The ceiling vaults to 10ft where the projector will be mounted, and throw distance is 13.5ft(162in). It can move a little further back, but it's prewired for projector install at that location.

Question 2 is, does that throw work for this setup and projector?

On the Epson site projector distance calculator I've entered the following- 16:9, ceiling mount, 10ft width (I'll only have 2.39 for 10ft, but this is the only way to enter 10ft width), ceiling height 10ft, floor to screen 1'3". This gives a Throw distance 13' 7.1" - 28' 6.2" [Ft/in], so my set up appears to barely be within range for throw distance. On the projector central review of the 5040UB they say at the front of the range is better, however using their calculator and a 1.1 gain screen it puts me outside of the 'green' area and into the "recommended image brightness for rooms with ambient light" range. Should that be a concern?

From the vaulted ceiling to center of the screen is 5ft4in (64in). With a drop ceiling mount, I figure it'll come down another 1ft, so make it 4ft4in (52in) from lens to screen center. Using the Epson lens shift checker and 120in wide 16:9 it shows +/- 5ft5in is within range. So I'm ok there, right? The projection distance chart in the manual isn't exactly clear to me though.

Thanks!
Is the front wall 8' (96") or 7.5' (90") tall?

The content in the scope aspect ratios do vary from 2.35:1 to 2.39:1. It's only an inch or two difference in height. I would go with a 2.39 screen and if the content is 2.35 you'll have an extra inch (1/2 inch top and bottom) of image that is projected into the black border of the screen.

At the front of the range is better in that it gives you a brighter image. The calculators for screen size are basing things from the lens of the projector. I would mount the projector at a few inches back from what the calculator gives you to be sure it will fill the screen (or test it on a stand before mounting it). I like this calculator best: http://www.webprojectorcalculator.com/ The ProjectorCentral one just uses the brightest mode for how bright the image will be (and you don't want to run in that mode due to color issues). If you follow that link it shows that the various modes will give you for brightness. There is also a manual iris you can use on the projector to dim the image if it is too bright.

You can't shift the image 5' 4" vertically at that image size and still get a 16:9 image down to your scope screen. The Webprojectorcalculator will give you the correct amount of shift you have. The math for how much you can shift the image is 94% of the 16:9 image height for your screen's height. So for your 120" wide scope screen you get a 50" high 16:9 image, .94 x 50 = 47" plus or minus from the center of the screen. If your screen is 18" off the floor the projector lens can only be 90" off of the floor. The more you use the lens shift vertically the less you can use it horizontally.

Are you doing an acoustically transparent screen? If not I would consider raising your screen up to about 24" from the floor so you have some more room for placing the center channel. With the screen 24" off of the floor you can have the projector lens a maximum of 96" from the bottom of the floor.
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Last edited by timmyotule; 04-28-2018 at 05:27 PM. Reason: Edited to correct amount of shift required for 16:9 content on a scope screen (thanks coderguy!)
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post #14250 of 17554 Old 04-28-2018, 10:13 AM
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Exactly, its a hard decision lol!
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrcusVaruna View Post
I’m torn on autobright vs auto with these settings, I keep switching between the two. I think auto produces a much more natural image but autobright drives a simulated hdr effect that is pretty convincing but moves the image away from what the director intended.


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Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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