Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread - Page 561 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16801 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Tweakophyte View Post
Please remind me... on the Panny820 would you use SDR/BT.2020 with these settings (or HDR)? If not, how would you change these setting?

Thx
Keep full HDR signal as mentioned and run HDR Optimizer ON with Display Type set to Middle Luminance. This will use disk metadata to map HDR content to 1000 nits, which is the sweet spot for HarperVision.

HarperVision takes in an HDR signal but the Projector uses a highly modified SDR profile which essentially performs a homemade tone map.

Settings sheet with CMS is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post55178352
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post #16802 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lithium View Post
Keep full HDR signal as mentioned and run HDR Optimizer ON with Display Type set to Middle Luminance. This will use disk metadata to map HDR content to 1000 nits, which is the sweet spot for HarperVision.

HarperVision takes in an HDR signal but the Projector uses a highly modified SDR profile which essentially performs a homemade tone map.

Settings sheet with CMS is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post55178352
In the 820 thread, when the 820 is putting out HDR, there was a concern about the 820 tone mapping and then a projector also tone mapping, essentially double tone mapping. Should we ignore this aspect? Just curious and looking to increase my understanding.

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post #16803 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by avtoronto View Post
In the 820 thread, when the 820 is putting out HDR, there was a concern about the 820 tone mapping and then a projector also tone mapping, essentially double tone mapping. Should we ignore this aspect? Just curious and looking to increase my understanding.
Yeah, higher end projectors have an easy way to set a specific gamma required for SDR/2020 playback (it's either 2.2 or 2.4 I forget which one). This is not trivial on the Epson with how the gamma controls and CMS are interlinked, or so I've been told. This would be the best method with the 820.

So unfortunately, we are stuck tone mapping a full HDR signal. You can choose to do it with an HDR mode or use something like HarperVison.

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post #16804 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by avtoronto View Post
In the 820 thread, when the 820 is putting out HDR, there was a concern about the 820 tone mapping and then a projector also tone mapping, essentially double tone mapping. Should we ignore this aspect? Just curious and looking to increase my understanding.
Although the 820 can handle “double tone mapping”, I would set the it to output SDR.2020, and the Epson to gamma 2.2 or 2.4. IOW, let the 820 handle the tone mapping.
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post #16805 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 05:45 PM
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Strangest thing happened tonight while watching Transformers the Last Knight in 4K. The aspect ratio kept changing from 16:9 to 2.35:1! Can somebody help out with why this could happen? Setup is an Oppo 203 to a Denon 7200WA to the 5040 all with certified hdmi cable.

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post #16806 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbadbob View Post
Strangest thing happened tonight while watching Transformers the Last Knight in 4K. The aspect ratio kept changing from 16:9 to 2.35:1! Can somebody help out with why this could happen? Setup is an Oppo 203 to a Denon 7200WA to the 5040 all with certified hdmi cable.
Variable aspect ratio.
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post #16807 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 06:16 PM
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Help a newbie; how to correct?

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post #16808 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbadbob View Post
Help a newbie; how to correct?
I believe that's how the movie was shot. There are a few other films that change the ratio throughout the movie...not much you can do about it.
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post #16809 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 06:49 PM
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That’s crazy! I have a 2.35 screen. Would be great to just have one aspect ratio per movie! 😳
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post #16810 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Harper View Post
My HarperVision settings are based on receiving an HDR signal, so you’d use HDR/BT2020.

For SDR/2020 you would just use your normal SDR mode settings, not HarperVision.

I would try both and see which one you prefer. I haven’t used an 820 on a 5040 myself since it wasn’t out when I sold my last one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Although the 820 can handle “double tone mapping”, I would set the it to output SDR.2020, and the Epson to gamma 2.2 or 2.4. IOW, let the 820 handle the tone mapping.
... semi-conflicting information. Is there an SDR version of HarperVision that is designed for an SDR/BT.2020 (versus an SDR Rec709)? I'd like to keep the Panny820 in a single mode and limit the amount of changes I need to make to the PJ.

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post #16811 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 07:18 PM
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Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread

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Originally Posted by welldun View Post
Orcus,



A big thanks to you and everyone else who has provided their calibration settings. If it is not too much trouble, can you explain a bit further what we should and should not fiddle with when adapting your settings to our setups? Perhaps a provide a short list of the settings that should be adjusted based on the individuals viewing conditions vs the ones that should be left alone. Thanks in advance.

It’s very difficult to say exactly what changes to make for each room and screen but I can offer a pretty quick way of adjusting my settings to fit your room without a meter or other expensive equipment. If you have an iPhone X, Samsung Galaxy/Note, the new iPad Pro, Microsoft SP4 or other high end device with a display manufacturer calibrated for HDR (which those are and VERY accurately actually), download an HDR clip or ITunes movie and play it back on both screens stopping at a high contrast colorful outdoor scene (the most important thing is that it is the exact same file played on each device and preferably the same app, I prefer a file played on VLC or via Plex). Then adjust the colors using the color temp settings, you should be able to get pretty close with just those allowing you to avoid messing with the RGBCMY menu, which you really need a meter to adjust. Once your happy with the color use a 1000nit pattern (there are links to download free patterns on hdr calibration threads in this forum) and display it using a chromecast ultra, plex, or other device/app that can properly display 4K HDR files. Then double check you didn’t alter the contrast settings by messing with the color temp gains and offsets and adjust contrast/brightness if necessary.

Is this method perfect? Absolutely not, BUT while the human eye & brain are terrible at remembering color they just so happen to be fantastic at picking up minute differences between the colors displayed by two different screens especially the color temperature differences of those screens. So by using a display you know is correct and matching the projector to that screen as closely as you can by eye will yield results they will get you 90% of the way there. Hope this helps and let me know if you have anymore questions.


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Last edited by OrcusVaruna; 02-04-2019 at 07:22 PM.
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post #16812 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweakophyte View Post
... semi-conflicting information. Is there an SDR version of HarperVision that is designed for an SDR/BT.2020 (versus an SDR Rec709)? I'd like to keep the Panny820 in a single mode and limit the amount of changes I need to make to the PJ.
Not conflicting at all. Dave Harper’s post also said both will work.

I don’t know why you would look for “an SDR version of HarperVision”; you just need to use a standard 2.2 or 2.4 gamma, but with BT.2020 colour space.
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post #16813 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
you just need to use a standard 2.2 or 2.4 gamma, but with BT.2020 colour space.
Easier said than done, Epson does not provide a trivial way to do this (unlike JVC). I've been told by others in this thread that it is difficult and to my knowledge no one has done it yet. But, if you have some insight into how to achieve such a configuration then I'm all ears.
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post #16814 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Lithium View Post
Easier said than done, Epson does not provide a trivial way to do this (unlike JVC). I've been told by others in this thread that it is difficult and to my knowledge no one has done it yet. But, if you have some insight into how to achieve such a configuration then I'm all ears.
I had a 5040UB and had no difficulty getting standard gamma 2.2 or 2.4. It was custom gamma that's hard to get, because of the limited number of control points and limited range of adjustments. In any case, even if it was difficult to achieve, why would an "SDR HarperVision" (whatever it means) be easier to achieve?

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post #16815 of 18050 Old 02-04-2019, 10:13 PM
 
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Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread

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Originally Posted by pete ramberg View Post
Dave - quick question: is your Harpervision settings for an HDR inputted signal? If so, then what is the significance of using "SDR" for the mode??Is it to force the software into thinking the input is SDR?? And, if so, how come?



Just curious.



Thanks.

Yes they’re for a full HDR signal being sent into the display. The reason you set the display to SDR in this case is to be able to manually tone map the signal to be brighter and more conducive to a lower nit display such as your typical Home Theater projector. This is pretty much what players like the Panasonic 820 (and Lumagen and MadVR) are now doing in the source device. It’s just a matter of where it’s done really.

For my BenQ LK970 I prefer it done at the projector, mainly because I have the control over what kind of look I want, and then the 820’s Optimizer maps it to the 1,000 or so nits I calibrated and “HarperVisioned” it to.

This Note from the Lumagen Radiance Pro manual sums it up nicely:




Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweakophyte View Post
... semi-conflicting information. Is there an SDR version of HarperVision that is designed for an SDR/BT.2020 (versus an SDR Rec709)? I'd like to keep the Panny820 in a single mode and limit the amount of changes I need to make to the PJ.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Not conflicting at all. Dave Harper’s post also said both will work.



I don’t know why you would look for “an SDR version of HarperVision”; you just need to use a standard 2.2 or 2.4 gamma, but with BT.2020 colour space.


Quote:
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In the 820 thread, when the 820 is putting out HDR, there was a concern about the 820 tone mapping and then a projector also tone mapping, essentially double tone mapping. Should we ignore this aspect? Just curious and looking to increase my understanding.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Although the 820 can handle “double tone mapping”, I would set the it to output SDR.2020, and the Epson to gamma 2.2 or 2.4. IOW, let the 820 handle the tone mapping.

I have found that sending full HDR with the HDR Optimizer engaged on the UB820 into a BenQ LK970 with HarperVision mods to be the best solution and image by far over using SDR/BT2020 from the 820 into the LK970 in SDR mode with a 2.4 gamma.

As I said, I encourage all to try both though as I haven’t done this experiment on a 5040 to see which is better with this model.

To answer your other question, I thought you could get SDR/BT2020 with a 2.4 gamma by just selecting Digital Cinema mode which engages the P3 color filter, then you manually go into SDR mode and select 2.4 as the gamma? I swear that’s all I had to do when I had a 5040 here last time, but it’s been quite a while and my memory could be off.

Last edited by Dave Harper; 02-04-2019 at 10:19 PM.
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post #16816 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Harper View Post

To answer your other question, I thought you could get SDR/BT2020 with a 2.4 gamma by just selecting Digital Cinema mode which engages the P3 color filter, then you manually go into SDR mode and select 2.4 as the gamma? I swear that’s all I had to do when I had a 5040 here last time, but it’s been quite a while and my memory could be off.
The gamma settings don't call out their standard (i.e. show +1, 0, -1 vs 2.2, 2.4). Does anyone know the conversion?

By the way, I played around with the original and orcus mod of the HV settings last nigh and found them very dark compared to an unmodified setting. This was when feeding them the SDR/BT.2020 signal. I did not play with turning on HDR. If I am reading correctly, you are saying your settings * require * an HDR signal and may need some tweaking with the optimizer, correct? Are you also suggesting the have the player map at 1000 nits versus the projector mode of 300nits?

From here I want to understand that if I want to use SDR/BT.2020 I should stick to a more conventional set-up with the standard gamma? Either here or on the Panny820 thread several were saying the SDR/BT.2020 was a better way to go for a projector, since a PJ has limited light output. I forget if you opined on that.

Sorry I didn't buy this last year so your thoughts would have been fresher. :-) Sorry if this is a rehash of everything you've been saying. My goal is to limit the number of settings I need in various scenarios of 4K, 1080p, Netflix, Amazon coming out of the player, and a few TV modes.

Thanks again!

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post #16817 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Harper View Post
Yes they’re for a full HDR signal being sent into the display. The reason you set the display to SDR in this case is to be able to manually tone map the signal to be brighter and more conducive to a lower nit display such as your typical Home Theater projector. This is pretty much what players like the Panasonic 820 (and Lumagen and MadVR) are now doing in the source device. It’s just a matter of where it’s done really.

For my BenQ LK970 I prefer it done at the projector, mainly because I have the control over what kind of look I want, and then the 820’s Optimizer maps it to the 1,000 or so nits I calibrated and “HarperVisioned” it to.

This Note from the Lumagen Radiance Pro manual sums it up nicely:












I have found that sending full HDR with the HDR Optimizer engaged on the UB820 into a BenQ LK970 with HarperVision mods to be the best solution and image by far over using SDR/BT2020 from the 820 into the LK970 in SDR mode with a 2.4 gamma.

As I said, I encourage all to try both though as I haven’t done this experiment on a 5040 to see which is better with this model.

To answer your other question, I thought you could get SDR/BT2020 with a 2.4 gamma by just selecting Digital Cinema mode which engages the P3 color filter, then you manually go into SDR mode and select 2.4 as the gamma? I swear that’s all I had to do when I had a 5040 here last time, but it’s been quite a while and my memory could be off.
The projector offers the following gamma values: 2, 1, 0, -1, -2. It's been said in this thread that -2 is the closest to achieving a gamma of 2.4.
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post #16818 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 06:58 AM
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I've read through this thread many times. Used many of the posted user settings. Experimented for 2 years with this PJ to get HDR looking good and never been truly content. But I think I've stumbled across something which looks good.

The main points

UB820
Colour output: SDR/BT2020
HDR Type: Basic Luminance LCD & Projector
HDR Optimiser: On
Dynamic range conversion: -6

Epson
Digital Cinema Mode
High Lamp
Auto iris
Super white on
Gamma -2

Then adjust brightness and contrast settings against some patterns for your environment.

Then I just simply copied my colour settings from my SDR calibration.
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post #16819 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbadbob View Post
Strangest thing happened tonight while watching Transformers the Last Knight in 4K. The aspect ratio kept changing from 16:9 to 2.35:1! Can somebody help out with why this could happen? Setup is an Oppo 203 to a Denon 7200WA to the 5040 all with certified hdmi cable.
Yes, this happens all the time. I see it in CGI heavy movies where the live action is shot at 235 and the CGI rendered at 16:9. Transfomers was probably the WORST. I have also noticed it in MI:Fallout when they are about to jump out of the plane. When you have a 235 screen, once you see it, you can't unsee it.

My one disappointment with my upgrade from the Panny 4000 to the 5040 is that Epson advertises it's auto lens memory as constant image Height, when in reality, it is constant image Width, if you have a 235 screen. Maybe I'm missing something, because I don't really see anyone complaining about this.

When you set the lens memory to fill the 235 screen with 235 content and a 16:9 scene pops up, the WIDTH remains the same and the top and bottom are off the screen. Conversely, if I set the 16:9 to fill the 235 screen top and bottom (which leaves white screen on the sides) and a 235 scene pops up, it shrinks to fit within that 16:9 setting leaving white screen on the sides AND black bars on the top and bottom. To resize the images, you need to hit the lens memory buttons on the remote and then you get a message in the middle of the screen saying that the lens is changing. No kidding, really? I JUST pushed the button, I KNOW it's changing. (Granted that annoying message was a problem with the Panny 4000 and it wasn't made configurable until the 5000's came out.)

Personally, I MUCH prefer that the 235 be the largest (and most immersive) image. My room is height constrained, so the wide screen made the most sense. The way it worked with the Pannys resulted in true Constant Image Height. The Lens memories were set at the AR input level. This meant that when 235 content was displayed, the image filled the entire 235 screen and when 16:9 popped up the lens AUTOMATICALLY reset to the 16:9 setting filling the top and bottom and leaving the white screen on the sides.

If anyone has figured out how to set the lens memories at AR input, or constrain images sizes to the top and bottom of the screen without having to press buttons on the remote, I'd be grateful to know how to set it.
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post #16820 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 07:44 AM
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Yes, this happens all the time. I see it in CGI heavy movies where the live action is shot at 235 and the CGI rendered at 16:9. Transfomers was probably the WORST. I have also noticed it in MI:Fallout when they are about to jump out of the plane. When you have a 235 screen, once you see it, you can't unsee it.



My one disappointment with my upgrade from the Panny 4000 to the 5040 is that Epson advertises it's auto lens memory as constant image Height, when in reality, it is constant image Width, if you have a 235 screen. Maybe I'm missing something, because I don't really see anyone complaining about this.



When you set the lens memory to fill the 235 screen with 235 content and a 16:9 scene pops up, the WIDTH remains the same and the top and bottom are off the screen. Conversely, if I set the 16:9 to fill the 235 screen top and bottom (which leaves white screen on the sides) and a 235 scene pops up, it shrinks to fit within that 16:9 setting leaving white screen on the sides AND black bars on the top and bottom. To resize the images, you need to hit the lens memory buttons on the remote and then you get a message in the middle of the screen saying that the lens is changing. No kidding, really? I JUST pushed the button, I KNOW it's changing. (Granted that annoying message was a problem with the Panny 4000 and it wasn't made configurable until the 5000's came out.)



Personally, I MUCH prefer that the 235 be the largest (and most immersive) image. My room is height constrained, so the wide screen made the most sense. The way it worked with the Pannys resulted in true Constant Image Height. The Lens memories were set at the AR input level. This meant that when 235 content was displayed, the image filled the entire 235 screen and when 16:9 popped up the lens AUTOMATICALLY reset to the 16:9 setting filling the top and bottom and leaving the white screen on the sides.



If anyone has figured out how to set the lens memories at AR input, or constrain images sizes to the top and bottom of the screen without having to press buttons on the remote, I'd be grateful to know how to set it.
There is a way to maintain constant height during films with variable aspect ratios. It's not ideal, but it works. If you know a movie has changing aspect ratios (such as MI Fallout, the Dark Knight, or most recent MCU films in 3D), start the movie at a point where it is in a 2.35:1 screen ratio. Go to the projector Menu and look for a feature called Blanking under the Signal menu. This feature allows you to blank out the top and bottom of the image as much as you want. In this case, you would reduce the top and bottom until just before the top and bottom of the movie image. You'll be missing the larger IMAX part of those scenes, but you also won't have to fiddle with your lens memory in the middle of the movie. Another downside of this feature is that you can't save blanking settings to the projector memory. Unless you keep the top and bottom blanked all the time (which also would cut off parts of Blu-ray menus), you'll have to set the blanking at the start of every movie that has variable aspect ratios.
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post #16821 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 08:16 AM
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@seplant - I appreciate that but it is not optimal. You usually don't know about the variable aspect ratios until you are in the middle of the film. So you have to watch the film to see if it has variable aspects and then set the blanking and THEN watch the movie. I guess pressing the Lens Mem button on the remote is easier. For now, I leave it set on the 16:9 and live with the smaller widescreen. That just seems so backward to me. On a 16:9 TV there's nothing you can do about it, but we buy these projectors to have the full immersion and they can handle the variable aspects in ways that TVs can't.

The thing the bothers me is that I KNOW it can be done...Panasonic did it 10 years ago and it worked flawlessly.

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post #16822 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post
Yes, this happens all the time. I see it in CGI heavy movies where the live action is shot at 235 and the CGI rendered at 16:9. Transfomers was probably the WORST. I have also noticed it in MI:Fallout when they are about to jump out of the plane. When you have a 235 screen, once you see it, you can't unsee it.

My one disappointment with my upgrade from the Panny 4000 to the 5040 is that Epson advertises it's auto lens memory as constant image Height, when in reality, it is constant image Width, if you have a 235 screen. Maybe I'm missing something, because I don't really see anyone complaining about this.

When you set the lens memory to fill the 235 screen with 235 content and a 16:9 scene pops up, the WIDTH remains the same and the top and bottom are off the screen. Conversely, if I set the 16:9 to fill the 235 screen top and bottom (which leaves white screen on the sides) and a 235 scene pops up, it shrinks to fit within that 16:9 setting leaving white screen on the sides AND black bars on the top and bottom. To resize the images, you need to hit the lens memory buttons on the remote and then you get a message in the middle of the screen saying that the lens is changing. No kidding, really? I JUST pushed the button, I KNOW it's changing. (Granted that annoying message was a problem with the Panny 4000 and it wasn't made configurable until the 5000's came out.)

Personally, I MUCH prefer that the 235 be the largest (and most immersive) image. My room is height constrained, so the wide screen made the most sense. The way it worked with the Pannys resulted in true Constant Image Height. The Lens memories were set at the AR input level. This meant that when 235 content was displayed, the image filled the entire 235 screen and when 16:9 popped up the lens AUTOMATICALLY reset to the 16:9 setting filling the top and bottom and leaving the white screen on the sides.

If anyone has figured out how to set the lens memories at AR input, or constrain images sizes to the top and bottom of the screen without having to press buttons on the remote, I'd be grateful to know how to set it.
That's why I purchased a 130", 2.35:1 screen. I was under the assumption I would be ok with a 2.35:1 screen with the 5040s ability to zoom and lens shift. I am extremely frustrated now and looking for help. I play 4k movies through my Oppo 203 through a Denon 7200WA to my 5040. it seems as though I'm only getting 16:9 content for some reason! I'm not a total newbie but thought I could figure this out fairly simply. Don't know what the heck I'm doing wrong. If I have an incorrect setting or just stupid and missed something. It's a new setup so my wife is being patient but if I don't figure it out I'm going to be in a world of hurt. Thinking about taking a hammer to the entire system. Somebody help!

I've messed around with the zoom, lens shift and blanking but I'm struggling. Like I stated it seems that 2.35 movies are shown in 16:9 and I'm frustrated. I'm wondering if I have a setting screwed up somewhere in the chain. I would assume that 2.35 or 2.4 movies would still display in that format...?

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post #16823 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
I was under the assumption I would be ok with a 2.35:1 screen with the 5040s ability to zoom and lens shift.
As was I. Even the reviews that I read and watched prior to purchase talked about setting the lens memory for CIH, but now I realize the video reviews never showed it in action, which would point out the problem.


It's not just movies with this issue. A LOT of commercials are in widescreen so it happens while watching TV. At least I'm not quite as annoyed when it's a commercial that gets shrunk down.

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post #16824 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post
@seplant - I appreciate that but it is not optimal. You usually don't know about the variable aspect ratios until you are in the middle of the film. So you have to watch the film to see if it has variable aspects and then set the blanking and THEN watch the movie. I guess pressing the Lens Mem button on the remote is easier. For now, I leave it set on the 16:9 and live with the smaller widescreen. That just seems so backward to me. On a 16:9 TV there's nothing you can do about it, but we buy these projectors to have the full immersion and they can handle the variable aspects in ways that TVs can't.



The thing the bothers me is that I KNOW it can be done...Panasonic did it 10 years ago and it worked flawlessly.
It may not be optimal, but it's about all you can do. The problem is the source material, not the projector. I don't know of any other projectors in this price range that can do any better (and there are plenty in this price range that don't have lens memory at all).

Also, you can always do a little research before watching a movie you aren't familiar with to determine if it has variable aspect ratios. There is just such a thread right here on AVS: see the “List of Variable Aspect Ratio Movies on Blu-ray“ thread.
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post #16825 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 12:33 PM
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Thanks, I'll take a look at the thread.

I disagree that :
Quote:
The problem is the source material, not the projector
. The Panasonic 4000 (PTAE4000E) does this flawlessly. I'm sire Epson could do it if they wanted to.

From the PT AE4000 user manual. Note the combination of Lens memory and AUTOSwitching based on aspect ratio works perfectly to maintain true Constant Image Height.
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post #16826 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post
Yes, this happens all the time. I see it in CGI heavy movies where the live action is shot at 235 and the CGI rendered at 16:9. Transfomers was probably the WORST. I have also noticed it in MI:Fallout when they are about to jump out of the plane. When you have a 235 screen, once you see it, you can't unsee it.

My one disappointment with my upgrade from the Panny 4000 to the 5040 is that Epson advertises it's auto lens memory as constant image Height, when in reality, it is constant image Width, if you have a 235 screen. Maybe I'm missing something, because I don't really see anyone complaining about this.

When you set the lens memory to fill the 235 screen with 235 content and a 16:9 scene pops up, the WIDTH remains the same and the top and bottom are off the screen. Conversely, if I set the 16:9 to fill the 235 screen top and bottom (which leaves white screen on the sides) and a 235 scene pops up, it shrinks to fit within that 16:9 setting leaving white screen on the sides AND black bars on the top and bottom. To resize the images, you need to hit the lens memory buttons on the remote and then you get a message in the middle of the screen saying that the lens is changing. No kidding, really? I JUST pushed the button, I KNOW it's changing. (Granted that annoying message was a problem with the Panny 4000 and it wasn't made configurable until the 5000's came out.)

Personally, I MUCH prefer that the 235 be the largest (and most immersive) image. My room is height constrained, so the wide screen made the most sense. The way it worked with the Pannys resulted in true Constant Image Height. The Lens memories were set at the AR input level. This meant that when 235 content was displayed, the image filled the entire 235 screen and when 16:9 popped up the lens AUTOMATICALLY reset to the 16:9 setting filling the top and bottom and leaving the white screen on the sides.

If anyone has figured out how to set the lens memories at AR input, or constrain images sizes to the top and bottom of the screen without having to press buttons on the remote, I'd be grateful to know how to set it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post
Thanks, I'll take a look at the thread.

I disagree that :. The Panasonic 4000 (PTAE4000E) does this flawlessly. I'm sire Epson could do it if they wanted to.

From the PT AE4000 user manual. Note the combination of Lens memory and AUTOSwitching based on aspect ratio works perfectly to maintain true Constant Image Height.
My experience with the 5040 and my previous Panny AE3000 exactly!
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Epson: 5040UB | Elite: 115" Fixed Frame CinemaScope (2.35:1) | Onkyo: TX-RZ920 + M-5010 (7.2.4) | Klipsch: RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II, RB-61 II MICCA: M-8C (Atmos) x 6 | SVS: PB16-Ultra x 2 | Philips: BDP7501, Panasonic: DMP UB900, Oppo: UDP-203
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post #16827 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 03:56 PM
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I've had my 5040 over 2 years now. I'm finally getting around to needing HDR and want to update the firmware to 1.11 but everything I try seems to fail.



Here's the procedure I'm following:
Download firmware from Epson website

Complete format of the USB as stick FAT32, copy and paste only the bin file on the drive with no folder
Insert USB into USB port of 5040UB
Ensure projector is off and unplug from power
Hold down projector power button
Plug back in projector while continuing to hold down power button
Wait until all lights turn on (blue power, and the two orange), then let go of power button
Lights all stay light for about 5 seconds

The projector starts normally. when I check I can verify update NOT installed



I've tried a USB 3.0, USB 2.0, micro SD card in USB reader, quick format, full format. I've read many suggestions on this forum but I can't see me finding the time to read all 16,000 posts to hope there's a solution somewhere. Here's hoping someone else has had issues and figured them out!
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post #16828 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 03:57 PM
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Here's something to try for HDR.COLOR MODE CINEMA,AUTO BRIGHT,BT2020 HDMI NORMAL.

BRIGHTNESS 97,CONTRAST 0,COLOR SATURATION 60,TINT 100,SHARPNESS 555
COLOR TEMP 5,SKIN TONE 3,COLOR TEMP CUSTOM 49 49 49 35 50 50

POWER CONSUMPTION HIGH,AUTO IRIS NORMAL,GAMA 0 -32 -14 -14 -14 -14 -15 +22 +32
RGB (R) 32 79 50 (G )48 93 50 (B) 47 73 50 (C) 25 87 50 (M) 43 87 50 (Y) 22 83 50

IRIS 0,SUPER WHITE OFF,

This is a combo of settings that have already been posted by others,try it out
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post #16829 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayians View Post
I've had my 5040 over 2 years now. I'm finally getting around to needing HDR and want to update the firmware to 1.11 but everything I try seems to fail.



Here's the procedure I'm following:
Download firmware from Epson website

Complete format of the USB as stick FAT32, copy and paste only the bin file on the drive with no folder
Insert USB into USB port of 5040UB
Ensure projector is off and unplug from power
Hold down projector power button
Plug back in projector while continuing to hold down power button
Wait until all lights turn on (blue power, and the two orange), then let go of power button
Lights all stay light for about 5 seconds

The projector starts normally. when I check I can verify update NOT installed



I've tried a USB 3.0, USB 2.0, micro SD card in USB reader, quick format, full format. I've read many suggestions on this forum but I can't see me finding the time to read all 16,000 posts to hope there's a solution somewhere. Here's hoping someone else has had issues and figured them out!
I don't think the update makes hdr better,it just puts the brightest setting for hdr on top.I could be wrong.
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post #16830 of 18050 Old 02-05-2019, 04:23 PM
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I'm running a 2.35 113" AT screen.I had the projector mounted at 14' from the screen and was on the upper end of the zoom,its been a year and the picture has been looking great or so I thought!
I just moved it back to 18' and am at the lower end of the zoom now.holy cow the image is ten times better!!!
It looks brighter with way more contrast and much sharper.Just thought i would share this for those that have not mounted theirs yet.
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