Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread - Page 625 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #18721 of 19836 Old 01-24-2020, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RedPills4All View Post
I had the same problem. I tried everything, probably about 5 different USB sticks. I even called support and they said I had a bad unit and they wanted to do a return. The projector lights would come on, and then shut off, and no FW update. Someone posted that the stick had to be FAT32, not FAT, so I even tried to carve out a partition on the stick smaller than 4GB, formatted FAT32, and went that route - didn't work.

In the end, based on suggestions from other forum members, the only thing that worked for me was using an old USB 2.0 drive that had a total size less than 4GB, formatted FAT32. I'm not sure if it has to be USB 2.0, but I think the size will matter. Hope this helps!
Thanks the FAT32 did the trick on a old usb drive. Thanks again. Now what does version 114 do? Any official explanation. It took a while to upload and install.

As a side note I bought this reconditioned from Epson and it works great. I consider my self lucky. I have been able to find any problems with it such as blotched in the picture etc. Epson really has to up their communication with customers from engineering. I imagine they waste a lot of money shipping broken projectors around the country.
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post #18722 of 19836 Old 01-24-2020, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by lastditch View Post
LOL Same. We are probably trading with each other. One point I made, was that I was not going to check a website every day and call THEM. They can call me, and they did, third one should arrive by Mon.
I doupt it I'm in Canada lol
I was suppose to get a new one ship last monday. I call them back today.
Turns out they didn't actually have one in stock.
They offered me a refund or to wait some more. I'm tinking about taking the refund but then again I don't have anything to buy in this price range . . .


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Originally Posted by Odysea View Post
Ooh, that is extremely helpful! So if I force SDR my xbox one x should not have an issue with 4k right?
Well It's just a suggestion. I'm not sure it will work . . .lol
One thing that is sure to work is an hdfury linker but it cost a little under 200$

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post #18723 of 19836 Old 01-24-2020, 12:19 PM
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Maybe consider buying a non-4K sony or the 4K-JVC, I'm pretty sure I priced some out in our area around the same price as the Epson (at normal retail pricing). I'm pretty worried about mine now, may have decided different if I had known they were so unreliable. Or, would have waited 1 month longer and got the 5050 and swallowed the extra money knowing they are likely better.

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post #18724 of 19836 Old 01-24-2020, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Odysea View Post
Ooh, that is extremely helpful! So if I force SDR my xbox one x should not have an issue with 4k right?


That’s what I’ve done and it’s been working great. Nothing dim or washed out, just looks incredible! I’m not a big fan of HDR, one of the very few it seems


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post #18725 of 19836 Old 01-24-2020, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Frichard View Post
I doupt it I'm in Canada lol
I was suppose to get a new one ship last monday. I call them back today.
Turns out they didn't actually have one in stock.
They offered me a refund or to wait some more. I'm tinking about taking the refund but then again I don't have anything to buy in this price range . . .



Well It's just a suggestion. I'm not sure it will work . . .lol
One thing that is sure to work is an hdfury linker but it cost a little under 200$
Lol they said the same thing to me, then called me back on wed to tell me one shipped go figure. Anyways... it arrived, hooked it up, no dust blobs other than an out of focus blue one but I cant tell. Also a small bit of pink hue at the top right of the projector, not as bad as the last one. I think at this point Im going to cut my losses and keep this one for now.

One thing that I noticed was what appeared to be a blue pixel, that shows on an all black screen with no input, can only see it from within 3 or 4 feet of the screen. Not sure what that is?
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post #18726 of 19836 Old 01-24-2020, 02:19 PM
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Looking for some help.

I have the epson 5040ub hooked up to a shieldtv pro. The problem Im having, is that I like to keep the shield GUI to 4k 60hz because its more responsive. Now when I load kodi, the shield changes to 1080p at 60hz for the gui which is correct. But when I play a 4k movie, the resolution changes to 4k, at 23.98hz with bt709 HDR, which is not correct. If I go to the display settings of the shield, I can choose 4k at 23.98hz 10bit HDR ready, and the movie will display that. What I am looking for is the shield to do this for me automatically.

I thought that was what the beta match color space option was supposed to do, not sure if its a bug or if I have to do something else?
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post #18727 of 19836 Old 01-24-2020, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Frichard View Post
What do you how's my shield outputting it?
I put my resolution @4k 23.976 HDR Ready . . .

On the 5040ub here's my setting:

Color mode: Bright Cinema
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 100
Color saturation: 62
Advanced
Gamma: 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,32,32
Power: medium or eco
Auto iris: speed High

Signal Advanced Menu
Dynamic range: auto
Thanks so much for posting your settings. I’ve had my 5040ub since June, and HDR has always been too dim.

My main question for you or others is: Does putting the contrast at 100 seem like a bad idea with Dynamic range set to auto (which means HDR will pass through as HDR)? Does the custom gamma settings make up for that? I gotta admit that my HTPC Win10 desktop looks absolutely whack with these settings, but when playing a UHD movie, they have never looked so good!

I thought that the 100 contrast was when using an HDR input but then setting the PJ to SDR as in the traditional HarperVision method.

However I did notice that your settings were based on HarperVision Bright Cinema settings, and that guy definitely knew what he was doing, so what do I know

Just asking for curiosities sake. Thanks!
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post #18728 of 19836 Old 01-24-2020, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by lastditch View Post
LOL Same. We are probably trading with each other.

This made me think... Y'all who are on the refurb revolving door should get together and get a sheet of serial numbers going to see if the same units are being sent out with the same issue it was returned for.
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post #18729 of 19836 Old 01-24-2020, 03:37 PM
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I think if you're going to put together serial numbers, everyone should make a record and send it to the powers that be at Epson. This is horrible, someone out there has to listen!?

Panasonic DP-UB820, Yamaha RX-V1075, Epson 5040UB. Elunevision Reference 4K 125" screen.
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post #18730 of 19836 Old 01-24-2020, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RedPills4All View Post
This is great advice as I've been struggling with HDR issues. I just picked up the Panny 420 to give it another shot (I tried the 820 before). I think with your settings it definitely helps except I am still seeing that blacks are looking more gray than black, and some movies (Matrix 2 for example) are so dark. When I jack up the dynamic adjustment, yes the brighter scenes look amazing, but the dark scenes (night cityscapes for example) are washed out.

Can you tell me how to set the Gamma to 2.4? The only thing I can see is -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, or manual adjustment of the graph. I've seen people talk about 2.3 or 2.4 but I'm not really sure how to do that. Thanks!
Sorry, I am actually using the settings below which has a custom gamma, not 2.4. Give these a go!

1080p/4K (REC709/SDR2020) - These settings can be used for 1080p bluray, PS4 4K (no HDR) or using SDR2020 from your source.

Picture: Natural
Brightness: 51
Contrast: 62
Color Saturation: 50
Tint: 50
Sharpness: 9,9,9
Color Temp: 6000k
Skin Tone: 4
Image Enhancement: Preset 3

Advanced -
Gamma -1
RGBCMY -
R 60,70,34
G 56,60,44
B 95,79,33
C 51,14,77
M 47, 44, 47
Y 52,58,44
Epson Super White: Off
Power: Medium
Auto Iris: Normal

Signal->Advanced-
Dynamic Range: SDR
HDMI Video Range: Normal
Colour Space: Auto
Image: Fine
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post #18731 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 11:33 AM
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Finally got an acceptable 5040ub through the roulette lottery, and been working on dealing with all the different combinations of settings to get everything working. My conclusion after probably 20 plus hours of reading and configuring stuff, HDR almost seems like its not worth the effort.

I did use "harper vision" and yes the image looks great but most of the time I have a hard time telling the different between his settings and just using natural and auto bright for hdr. Yes I made sure to set the advanced signal settings to SDR for harpers settings. It does look good, and Ive I spend some time looking at screen caps I can usually tell the difference. But between having to have like 4 different memories saved, and THEN you still have to go into advanced settings, it just seems like its more hassle than its worth?

Honestly not looking for anyone to convince me or prove anything to anyone. I know Ive seen a few comments on here that voice the same frustrations with HDR. Just wanted to add my input.

I've had to mess around with the shield, the color space, the frame rate, HDR, and all that that comes with, including laggy GUI in shield because you have to set it to 23.98hz, etc etc. It just seems like HDR and the trouble it brings with 4k to be a non starter for a lot of us. I really wish I could just use 4k movies without having to deal with all the rest of it. I am getting to the point where I think I will just use my remux blurays since they seem to look just as good as the 4k material from 10 feet on 120 inch screen. IDK maybe its just my eyes getting older?

I am hoping in the near future all this HDR and color space matures a bit more, and all the apps and appliances will detect the signal correctly without all the messing around with setting those things.

Sorry for the long winded rant, just wanted to share my perspective since I've read all yours in the past 600 plus pages =) If anyone would like to share their thoughts or critiques on what I said I am more than happy to hear them.
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post #18732 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lastditch View Post
Finally got an acceptable 5040ub through the roulette lottery, and been working on dealing with all the different combinations of settings to get everything working. My conclusion after probably 20 plus hours of reading and configuring stuff, HDR almost seems like its not worth the effort.



I did use "harper vision" and yes the image looks great but most of the time I have a hard time telling the different between his settings and just using natural and auto bright for hdr. Yes I made sure to set the advanced signal settings to SDR for harpers settings. It does look good, and Ive I spend some time looking at screen caps I can usually tell the difference. But between having to have like 4 different memories saved, and THEN you still have to go into advanced settings, it just seems like its more hassle than its worth?



Honestly not looking for anyone to convince me or prove anything to anyone. I know Ive seen a few comments on here that voice the same frustrations with HDR. Just wanted to add my input.



I've had to mess around with the shield, the color space, the frame rate, HDR, and all that that comes with, including laggy GUI in shield because you have to set it to 23.98hz, etc etc. It just seems like HDR and the trouble it brings with 4k to be a non starter for a lot of us. I really wish I could just use 4k movies without having to deal with all the rest of it. I am getting to the point where I think I will just use my remux blurays since they seem to look just as good as the 4k material from 10 feet on 120 inch screen. IDK maybe its just my eyes getting older?



I am hoping in the near future all this HDR and color space matures a bit more, and all the apps and appliances will detect the signal correctly without all the messing around with setting those things.



Sorry for the long winded rant, just wanted to share my perspective since I've read all yours in the past 600 plus pages =) If anyone would like to share their thoughts or critiques on what I said I am more than happy to hear them.
HDR is fantastic with the 5040, IF YOU USE MADVR.

Otherwise your assessment is about right lol

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--------------------------------------------------
Epson 5040, 150" 16:9 1.1gain, Source: HTPC w/madVR, Audio: Onkyo RZ 830 avr, 5.1.4 Atmos setup. 5 speaker Energy C Series: L/R C300's, C C-C100, SR/SL C50's, 4 in-ceiling Micca R-8c. Subwoofers: 1 MiniMarty um18 w/NX3000D. 4 diy Slim VBSS 18" Subs w/NX3000D.
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post #18733 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 04:13 PM
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So I hooked up my old non 4k hdmi reciever and while using the shield the projector info says video input is Rob video. Is that correct? I can force the shield to output to 12 bit 4.4.4 YCbCr and then the output shows component. Which is correct? And if it's rgb video should I used expanded or normal?
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post #18734 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 04:43 PM
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HDR is fantastic with the 5040, IF YOU USE MADVR.

Otherwise your assessment is about right lol

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Does madVR add nits?


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post #18735 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 04:52 PM
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Does madVR add nits?


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No. Nothing can add nits other than the actual projector hardware/lamp.

What it does is convert HDR to SDR in a way that brings out the darker parts better and make them brighter. Requires a very strong nvidia based video card though (read=1070 or better). And it doesn’t help for an streaming services like Netflix or Disney+.
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post #18736 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 04:59 PM
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Does madVR add nits?


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It doesn't "add nits" but it does allow you to make use of your pj's higher sdr mode nits, so in conclusion you could say madvr provides the means to make better use of you pj's nits.

With MadVR I'm able to get almost 80 nits on a 150" screen in medium lamp and natural mode.

Without madVR and using Epson's hdr modes I'd probably be in the 50 nit range or less lol

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post #18737 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 05:27 PM
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Something that also sucks is that when you have these different settings for hdr and sdr and the like, your gui for kodi looks all jacked colors wise. So going through your movies looks awful when looking for something to watch. I really hope in the coming years all this stuff gets hashed out and some of these things are automatically switched, much like frame rate is.
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post #18738 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Xavier3 View Post
No. Nothing can add nits other than the actual projector hardware/lamp.



What it does is convert HDR to SDR in a way that brings out the darker parts better and make them brighter. Requires a very strong nvidia based video card though (read=1070 or better). And it doesn’t help for an streaming services like Netflix or Disney+.


Thanks for the responses!
So is MadVR the same or better as what the Panasonic’s are doing with the Tone mapping/HDR optimizer?


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post #18739 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by lastditch View Post

Sorry for the long winded rant, just wanted to share my perspective since I've read all yours in the past 600 plus pages =) If anyone would like to share their thoughts or critiques on what I said I am more than happy to hear them.
100%. I have settings for both HDR and SDR BT2020 and in doing the comparisons it's definitely not a difference I can see. For this reason I'm sticking with HDR-SDR conversion and using the digital cinema mode for WCG for 4k discs- with the Panny UB820 I cant get the brightness perfect. With this, all content looks the same and no messed up GUI on PS4 or whatever. Calling it a day now!

Also, a few have noted 1080p bluray vs 4k discs - I can most definitely see a huge uptick in resolution/color from bluray discs to 4K discs for sure. Watched the Joker 4K last night and it was just beautiful.

I just picked up an Elite Saker tab tension 100" screen, currently using a cheap ebay portable 100" so keen to see how this screen increases performance for me!
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post #18740 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 08:22 PM
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post #18741 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by lastditch View Post
Finally got an acceptable 5040ub through the roulette lottery, and been working on dealing with all the different combinations of settings to get everything working. My conclusion after probably 20 plus hours of reading and configuring stuff, HDR almost seems like its not worth the effort.



I did use "harper vision" and yes the image looks great but most of the time I have a hard time telling the different between his settings and just using natural and auto bright for hdr. Yes I made sure to set the advanced signal settings to SDR for harpers settings. It does look good, and Ive I spend some time looking at screen caps I can usually tell the difference. But between having to have like 4 different memories saved, and THEN you still have to go into advanced settings, it just seems like its more hassle than its worth?



Honestly not looking for anyone to convince me or prove anything to anyone. I know Ive seen a few comments on here that voice the same frustrations with HDR. Just wanted to add my input.



I've had to mess around with the shield, the color space, the frame rate, HDR, and all that that comes with, including laggy GUI in shield because you have to set it to 23.98hz, etc etc. It just seems like HDR and the trouble it brings with 4k to be a non starter for a lot of us. I really wish I could just use 4k movies without having to deal with all the rest of it. I am getting to the point where I think I will just use my remux blurays since they seem to look just as good as the 4k material from 10 feet on 120 inch screen. IDK maybe its just my eyes getting older?



I am hoping in the near future all this HDR and color space matures a bit more, and all the apps and appliances will detect the signal correctly without all the messing around with setting those things.



Sorry for the long winded rant, just wanted to share my perspective since I've read all yours in the past 600 plus pages =) If anyone would like to share their thoughts or critiques on what I said I am more than happy to hear them.
Try my settings for 4k hdr. Feel free to lower the gamma too.

http://imgur.com/gallery/ZpTCKE5

Make sure shield is set correctly for HDR and 4k. Works good for me.

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post #18742 of 19836 Old 01-26-2020, 10:38 PM
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I watch it with a Shield TV and lock the framerate to 59.97. This prevents HDR (the Epson can only do 4kHDR at 30hz and below). Unfortunately the shield has issues with Disney+ and one of them is that 4K SDR isn't working at the moment. So I'm watching in 1080p, upscaled by the Shield.

You can probably set the Roku to fixed 60Hz and it may give you 4k SDR (this is what I get on Netflix and Amazon).
But what about 4k movies from disk or rips? Dont those just have hdr and you would need to rely on the shield roku or projector to do the tone mapping? And so the colors will not be correct?
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post #18743 of 19836 Old 01-27-2020, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Xavier3 View Post
No. Nothing can add nits other than the actual projector hardware/lamp.

What it does is convert HDR to SDR in a way that brings out the darker parts better and make them brighter. Requires a very strong nvidia based video card though (read=1070 or better). And it doesn’t help for an streaming services like Netflix or Disney+.
I'm pretty sure you can use an AMD card for madvr !!

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post #18744 of 19836 Old 01-27-2020, 03:10 PM
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Thanks for the responses!
So is MadVR the same or better as what the Panasonic’s are doing with the Tone mapping/HDR optimizer?


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I don't have personal experience with the Panny players. But from what I've read on forums, MadVR will produce better results, but requires far more tinkering to get right. I'm just getting into it right now, and I'm struggling with a few things myself.

For those using MadVR on your 5040s, can you please post your settings here or PM me? I'm using a Win10PC with an Nvidia video card. When I'm playing a UHD movie and using the Tone Mapping using pixel shaders option, the projector is reporting BT 709 and 8 bit. So I figure that means I'm losing WCG colour. Will tinker with it more, but is that the way its supposed to work, or are my settings wrong?
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post #18745 of 19836 Old 01-27-2020, 05:16 PM
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Hi guys, I'm having a real trouble of finding a good HDMI switch to use with my 5040UB (which I otherwise love). So far I have tried 2 from Amazon and both have severe issues. I have created a thread about my troubles, I would really appreciate if you guys could help me out:
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post #18746 of 19836 Old 01-27-2020, 05:59 PM
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Still trying to plan my input path for my new PJ and media room.

We have netflix, amazon, and disney+

Planning to begin going to UHD disc backups, so we'll have local HDR and streaming through Amazon and Disney+ (netflix is just basic account).


Anyone use an HD Fury Diva or any of the HD Fury products to do tone mapping? I really don't want to build a 500W based HTPC. I switched to fire sticks around the home years ago when we cut the cord and haven't looked back. I'm ok with 80% of the tone mapping quality for 20% of the work. I'd go with a Panny disc player if it could stream MKVs over the network.

Thoughts?
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post #18747 of 19836 Old 01-27-2020, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by blazin912 View Post
Still trying to plan my input path for my new PJ and media room.



We have netflix, amazon, and disney+



Planning to begin going to UHD disc backups, so we'll have local HDR and streaming through Amazon and Disney+ (netflix is just basic account).





Anyone use an HD Fury Diva or any of the HD Fury products to do tone mapping? I really don't want to build a 500W based HTPC. I switched to fire sticks around the home years ago when we cut the cord and haven't looked back. I'm ok with 80% of the tone mapping quality for 20% of the work. I'd go with a Panny disc player if it could stream MKVs over the network.



Thoughts?
Same with me, if only I could do mkv on it

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post #18748 of 19836 Old 01-27-2020, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Superman2 View Post
Thanks for the responses!
So is MadVR the same or better as what the Panasonic’s are doing with the Tone mapping/HDR optimizer?


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Madvr is considered the best tone mapper around. One of the reason is that it's dynamic, adjusts to every frame, while the Panasonic is static, takes the highest brightness in the movie and tone maps to that. Means that you might have to change if some scenes are too dark. Also the metadata is not always accurate, or missing. Madvr measures every frame.

It works on AMD cards, but it's being developed and tested on Nvidia.

The thread is here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-ho...thread-65.html

Last edited by noob00224; 01-27-2020 at 07:48 PM.
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post #18749 of 19836 Old 01-27-2020, 08:04 PM
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My 6040ub has a small greenish blue cloud circle that you only see when the unit turns on with no input. I bought it new 2 years ago but recently my HT room had the heating set to to 84 and the bulb burnt out. Epson is saying that the unit looks to have a optical engine failure and are sending me a replacement.

Now I’m scared with all the refurb issues people are having! Has anyone else had this type of issue? Would you keep yours or take a refurb?

Thanks!

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0xsTKeB1B6HhoyplAQrevThIg#Carlsbad
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post #18750 of 19836 Old 01-27-2020, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rlopapa View Post
My 6040ub has a small greenish blue cloud circle that you only see when the unit turns on with no input. I bought it new 2 years ago but recently my HT room had the heating set to to 84 and the bulb burnt out. Epson is saying that the unit looks to have a optical engine failure and are sending me a replacement.

Now I’m scared with all the refurb issues people are having! Has anyone else had this type of issue? Would you keep yours or take a refurb?

Thanks!

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0xsT...vThIg#Carlsbad
If it's a circle on the screen that it's just dust blob.
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