Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread - Page 630 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #18871 of 19447 Old 02-14-2020, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by marcosphoto View Post
I am not sure about what the blanking feature is intended to do or how it works. After your mention I checked around and saw a little information but I'm not convinced it applies to me. None-the-less, if it's on it was like that from default because I have not touched that setting. I will look into that when I get home tonight, thanks for the idea.
Go to "Settings>Blanking" and make sure that "top" and Bottom" are set to zero.

Blanking simply blocks out a portion of each edge of the LCD chip, keeping extraneous light from reaching the screen. For example, if you use a 16:9 LCD chip to display a 2.35:1 panoramic image, the top and bottom of the chip is not used, but might have some extraneous light leaking out. The blanking feature basically blocks that light or image from reaching the screen - makes the dark grey bars more black!
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post #18872 of 19447 Old 02-14-2020, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by pete ramberg View Post
Go to "Settings>

Blanking simply blocks out a portion of each edge of the LCD chip, keeping extraneous light from reaching the screen. For example, if you use a 16:9 LCD chip to display a 2.35:1 panoramic image, the top and bottom of the chip is not used, but might have some extraneous light leaking out. The blanking feature basically blocks that light or image from reaching the screen - makes the dark grey bars more black!
I could be misunderstanding your explanation, but I think this explanation is incorrect.
Blanking just sets those pixels to black -- They'll still get the same amount of light through the LCD panel as if the image was black. There is no physical barrier moved in front of the LCD panel to block that extraneous light going through the "black" pixels. If a different aspect ratio image is shown, there is generally no need for or benefit from using blanking (assuming it already has black "bars" or a color to match the content).

There are at least two reasons for blanking options (there could be others as well). Source video could have garbage colors/errors along one or more edges (mostly gone with HDTV stations, but I've seen on some low-budget local stations when they play old analog-converted content and don't bother to overscan to correct their source). In this case one would want to block that portion of the image.
On the other hand, specifically in respect to projectors, one may have a full image in the source but want to display on a smaller or different aspect ratio rectangular screen or wall. In this case one may want to block different amounts from multiple sides so that the image is not being also projected on another wall or outside of the display area.

Here's an article on why there used to be a wider need for overscan, with a more elegant description of what I was referring to as "garbage" along the edge on some TV stations:
"Overscan also serves another, lesser-known purpose. Since the outside area isn’t going to be viewed anyway (in most cases), it’s used to house important data for analog-to-digital converters. Analog has no way to attach additional information to the picture like digital does (metadata), so this data is tucked neatly into things like blinking pixels or scan lines—think of it as Morse code for TVs. While the majority of everything is completely digital from end-to-end now, there are still some analog-to-digital conversions going on. That’s the problem with old technology that was so widely adopted and use for so long: it’s almost impossible to get rid of it completely."
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post #18873 of 19447 Old 02-14-2020, 08:33 PM
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Just picked up a Panny UB420 to go with my 5040. Is there a way to get 4K HDR through the built in Netflix app?

Been messing with the settings and can't get it to come out of 1080p, 12 bit HDR

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post #18874 of 19447 Old 02-14-2020, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BiggNewt View Post
Just picked up a Panny UB420 to go with my 5040. Is there a way to get 4K HDR through the built in Netflix app?

Been messing with the settings and can't get it to come out of 1080p, 12 bit HDR

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
It won't do 4k HDR to the Epson as it only outputs 60hz but I swear at one stage I had it doing 4k SDR however for the life of me I can't get it to do it again. Only 1080p HDR.
Amazon Prime will do it though.
Also, I have terrible lip sync issues through Netflix that I can't resolve.
Unreal for discs, but I'm using PS4 pro for streaming.

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post #18875 of 19447 Old 02-14-2020, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettmckinney View Post
It won't do 4k HDR to the Epson as it only outputs 60hz but I swear at one stage I had it doing 4k SDR however for the life of me I can't get it to do it again. Only 1080p HDR.
Amazon Prime will do it though.
Also, I have terrible lip sync issues through Netflix that I can't resolve.
Unreal for discs, but I'm using PS4 pro for streaming.

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Messing around with it some more I got 4K SDR by changing it from Auto to 4K in resolution. It forces the resolution while dropping the HDR.

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post #18876 of 19447 Old 02-14-2020, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BiggNewt View Post
Messing around with it some more I got 4K SDR by changing it from Auto to 4K in resolution. It forces the resolution while dropping the HDR.

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Hmm I'd think I would of tried that but I'll give it another go! Thanks
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post #18877 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by pete ramberg View Post
It sounds like the 'blanking' option is being used for the top and bottom of the image. Have you checked that?

So no, blanking is all 0, and overscan is blanked out so I cannot even check it (anyone know under what conditions overscan is available?). I had also asked Epson online support again about this, they replied saying it sounds like the unit is defective. Right out of the box? Is this possible? I would rather have had Epson tell me again that it was normal, as with all the replacement roulette that is occurring I really don't want to take this route. The picture looks great and everything seems to be working well otherwise, what do you all think - just keep it and avoid gambling?

Panasonic DP-UB820, Yamaha RX-V1075, Epson 5040UB. Elunevision Reference 4K 125" screen.
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post #18878 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 04:14 AM
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How much content have you checked this on? I just put something on that was 16x9 full screen and I had 2-3" gaps at the top and bottom. I played a few movies that looked the same and then I put The Lion King on and it filled the screen right to the edges. So just checking perhaps that the content you have was filmed slightly less than fullscreen?

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post #18879 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettmckinney View Post
How much content have you checked this on? I just put something on that was 16x9 full screen and I had 2-3" gaps at the top and bottom. I played a few movies that looked the same and then I put The Lion King on and it filled the screen right to the edges. So just checking perhaps that the content you have was filmed slightly less than fullscreen?

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

Good question, but the answer is every and all 16:9 content. Perhaps in some cases, it is more or less severe like in your case - but it's very hard to tell when not one souce I have watched will touch the top or bottom. You sort of loose the reference point when that happens and you can't tell if the gap is changing slightly when nothing has ever filled top to bottom.

Panasonic DP-UB820, Yamaha RX-V1075, Epson 5040UB. Elunevision Reference 4K 125" screen.
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post #18880 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcosphoto View Post
Good question, but the answer is every and all 16:9 content. Perhaps in some cases, it is more or less severe like in your case - but it's very hard to tell when not one souce I have watched will touch the top or bottom. You sort of loose the reference point when that happens and you can't tell if the gap is changing slightly when nothing has ever filled top to bottom.
Are you using any keystone adjustments to make the image “square”? They can also change the aspect ratio, although usually reducing the width instead of the height.
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post #18881 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Are you using any keystone adjustments to make the image “square”? They can also change the aspect ratio, although usually reducing the width instead of the height.

I am using keystone yes, but last night in doing more work setting up the new screen I was playing a lot with it and it does not affect the height as you suspected - mainly width.
I am concerned if Epson is correct that the unit requires replacement. I really don't want to enter into the roulette unless it's absolutely messed up.

Panasonic DP-UB820, Yamaha RX-V1075, Epson 5040UB. Elunevision Reference 4K 125" screen.
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post #18882 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by marcosphoto View Post
I am using keystone yes, but last night in doing more work setting up the new screen I was playing a lot with it and it does not affect the height as you suspected - mainly width.
I am concerned if Epson is correct that the unit requires replacement. I really don't want to enter into the roulette unless it's absolutely messed up.
In general it's best not to use keystone. With the lens shift one should be able to do so.

I seriously doubt that a defective projector can change the aspect ratio. If you projector a circle or square, do you get the same height and width?
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post #18883 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 08:34 AM
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Doing some room planning, I have an ideal "nook" to place this projector that is off center. Screen size 120" diag at minimum (still TBD) Placement would be about 24-30" off center. I understand the PJ has up to 47% Horizontal shift but this is without any vertical.

The PJ will be ~8-10" above the screen.

I believe this means I need:

23-29% Horizontal shift
17% Vertical shift

I'm sure this is within the ellipse, but can anyone confirm? Also I've seen mixed reviews on shift causing degradation, I'm no purist, but I just want to make sure this "minimal" shift for this projector is going to be A-ok.

This placement will lead to very high WAF
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post #18884 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by blazin912 View Post
The PJ will be ~8-10" above the screen.

I believe this means I need:

23-29% Horizontal shift
17% Vertical shift
The lens shift is measured from the centre of the screen, so if the projector is located at the top of the screen you're already using 50% vertical lens shift.
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post #18885 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by blazin912 View Post
The PJ will be ~8-10" above the screen.

I believe this means I need:

23-29% Horizontal shift
17% Vertical shift
The lens shift is measured from the centre of the screen, so if the projector is located at the top of the screen you're already using 50% vertical lens shift.
Ok so more like 67% vertical 29% horizontal is that reasonable??
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post #18886 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Are you using any keystone adjustments to make the image “square”? They can also change the aspect ratio, although usually reducing the width instead of the height.
You're correct it shouldn't change the aspect ratio, but that assumes the projector is horizontally aligned with the projection surface (since on this projector keystone is correcting for vertical alignment).

Keystone projects a trapezoid. Negative keystone doesn't use the top part of the LCD while Positive keystone adjustments don't use the bottom portion. Solution is to turn off keystone, line up the projector square with the surface it's projecting to, and use lens shift. I'd suggest use "Pattern" for aligning the projector. if you zoom where the image is smaller than necessary, then aim the projector until it's rectangular. Then zoom to the appropriate size and lens shift, fine tune the vertical and horizontal to get the rectangle again, and zoom/lens shift again to the final position.
The only reason to use keystone is if you need more vertical lens shift than the projector has.

If the screen is still not filled vertically, I'd guess possibly it's a 16:10 screen? (or a 4:3, but that should be more obvious if it were the case...)

Here's an example with the projector properly aligned with the screen and with keystone set to 0, keystone set to -60, and keystone set to +60:
edit:no idea why the images are flipped upside down here -- they were rotated correctly in onedrive and on my PC.
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post #18887 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 02:52 PM
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I got my new screen installed last week and was doing some finer adjustments on the projector last night. It's on a stand behind the seating location and I noticed that black bars were slightly not even and I realised that the projector wasn't lined up to the middle of the screen. So I got it lined up and using the pattern, lined the edges up perfectly. When we watched a movie I noticed that text on screen and then the end credits looked to be on a slight angle. I used the leg adjustments on the projector to lift the left side up a bit and then it looked much better to my eyes, but then the pattern alignment was off.

So my takeaway is that the roof isn't level. I think I'm gonna have to dial it somewhere in between I guess.

I'm also going to setup my old tripod screen in front of my new one to check black levels. For some reason (maybe I'm being a bit more discerning on the new screen) but I feel like my black levels have got worse since installing the new screen. My thinking though is that the new screen doesn't come down as low as the old one and I'm getting more reflections from the roof? It seems that the top black bars are a brighter black than the bottom ones and that colors seem to reflect back into the black in the upper area at times. I can't really remember seeing this on my old screen. The room get's completely dark and I have dark curtains but I guess the white ceilings & walls are doing there thing hey.
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post #18888 of 19447 Old 02-15-2020, 05:03 PM
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Ok so more like 67% vertical 29% horizontal is that reasonable??
Just threw my projector in the spot temporarily and it worked just fine. Not at the limit for sure.
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post #18889 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 09:27 AM
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Lucky enough to snag a refurbished unit last week when they were in stock. Worked on the install and setup this weekend. Coming from a Epson Home Cinema 2150. All I can say is WOW! This PJ is AMAZING right out of the box even before any calibration. My main player is a Roku Ultra. The Roku successfully auto detected the PJ at 4K HDR 30Hz. I took the liberty of writing down the signal from a few of my main apps from the Roku Ultra:

Vudu (4K HDR): 3840 x 2160, 24 Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR

Netflix (HD HDR): 1920 x 1080, 60 Hz, 10 bit 4:4:4, BT.2020 HDR
Note: Can be forced to 4K SDR by manually setting Roku to 4K 60Hz.

Youtube (4K HDR): 3840 x 2160, 60 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.2020 HDR

Disney+ (4K SDR): 3840 x 2160, 60Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.709 SDR

Prime (4K SDR): 3840 x 2160, 60 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.709 SDR

As you can see each of them have their pros/cons because of the 5040ub chipset bandwidth limitations. Which leads me to my questions:
  1. In your opinion, is HDR worth sacrificing pixels on the 5040ub?
  2. With that being said, do you prefer HDR or SDR?
  3. Finally, what settings do you prefer based on your previous answers (e.g. HarperVision, Harpervision w/oledurt, etc.)? (Bonus points for Roku Ultra owners)

Epson: 5040UB | Silver Ticket: 110" Fixed Frame Grey (16:9) | Denon: AVR-X1500H | Wavecrest Audio: HVL-1 x 3 | Roku: Ultra
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post #18890 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rephormat View Post
Lucky enough to snag a refurbished unit last week when they were in stock. Worked on the install and setup this weekend. Coming from a Epson Home Cinema 2150. All I can say is WOW! This PJ is AMAZING right out of the box even before any calibration. My main player is a Roku Ultra. The Roku successfully auto detected the PJ at 4K HDR 30Hz. I took the liberty of writing down the signal from a few of my main apps from the Roku Ultra:

Vudu (4K HDR): 3840 x 2160, 24 Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR

Netflix (HD HDR): 1920 x 1080, 60 Hz, 10 bit 4:4:4, BT.2020 HDR
Note: Can be forced to 4K SDR by manually setting Roku to 4K 60Hz.

Youtube (4K HDR): 3840 x 2160, 60 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.2020 HDR

Disney+ (4K SDR): 3840 x 2160, 60Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.709 SDR

Prime (4K SDR): 3840 x 2160, 60 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.709 SDR

As you can see each of them have their pros/cons because of the 5040ub chipset bandwidth limitations. Which leads me to my questions:
  1. In your opinion, is HDR worth sacrificing pixels on the 5040ub?
  2. With that being said, do you prefer HDR or SDR?
  3. Finally, what settings do you prefer based on your previous answers (e.g. HarperVision, Harpervision w/oledurt, etc.)? (Bonus points for Roku Ultra owners)
In my experience, 1080p vs 4k on the 5040UB is essentially the same. If you were to compare back to back you might see a slight difference, but when watching actual content, native 1080p with Epson's pixel shifting is great. HDR is a far more visible change, if you can manage to get it setup right for your environment. If you go with Digital Cinema, you can get the wider color gamut but the reduction of light from the filter might be too much. The default HDR settings are not great, with the majority of the content being too dark. Before going down the path of calibrating my projector, I had the best luck with HarperVision, but I think that is going to depend on your screen size/color, ambient lighting in environment, and just plain old personal preference. Best way would be to just try the various settings and see what looks better to you.
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post #18891 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 11:35 AM
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Lucky enough to snag a refurbished unit last week when they were in stock...

You obviously haven't skimmed through the thread if you consider yourself lucky to get one. I know it's a "good deal" for 4K pixel shift, but you're getting what you pay for.
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post #18892 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 11:59 AM
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You obviously haven't skimmed through the thread if you consider yourself lucky to get one. I know it's a "good deal" for 4K pixel shift, but you're getting what you pay for.
Sounds like he's lucky to me if he finally was able to get one.

Your getting way more than your paying for imo.

Please do tell what you would call a better deal than a $3k pj for $1300 that performs at this level...

Plus, it's back by a full 3 year warranty! Eventually epson will run out of refurb 5040 and then start replacing 5040's with refurb 5050 models - and that sounds like winning too...


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--------------------------------------------------
Epson 5040, 150" 16:9 1.1gain, Source: HTPC w/madVR, Audio: Onkyo RZ 830 avr, 5.1.4 Atmos setup. 5 speaker Energy C Series: L/R C300's, C C-C100, SR/SL C50's, 4 in-ceiling Micca R-8c. Subwoofers: 1 MiniMarty um18 w/NX3000D. 4 diy Slim VBSS 18" Subs w/NX3000D.

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post #18893 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roland6465 View Post
You obviously haven't skimmed through the thread if you consider yourself lucky to get one. I know it's a "good deal" for 4K pixel shift, but you're getting what you pay for.
Sounds like he's lucky to me if he finally was able to get one.

Your getting way more than your paying for imo.

Please do tell what you would call a better deal than a $3k pj for $1300 that performs at this level...

Plus, it's back by a full 3 year warranty! Eventually epson will run out of refurb 5040 and then start replacing 5040's with refurb 5050 models - and that sounds like winning too...


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1. You’re, not your.

2. A $3-5K model from JVC or Sony without all the issues.

3. That’s 3 years of retuned refurbs that haven’t been QC tested other than if it fires up with probably more issues than you originally had. Epson won’t give you a 5050. They’ll just make you wait until another reject gets sent in.

Again, you get what you pay for.
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post #18894 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jaado View Post
I bought a refurbished 5040 and wondering what the best mount for below $100 price? I tried to look up and was getting different results, thought a question would be easy to get answer.


Here is the one that I looked on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/QualGear-QG-K...157XFPJCM&th=1
Make a wood shelf for 10$
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post #18895 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by roland6465 View Post
1. You’re, not your.

2. A $3-5K model from JVC or Sony without all the issues.

3. That’s 3 years of retuned refurbs that haven’t been QC tested other than if it fires up with probably more issues than you originally had. Epson won’t give you a 5050. They’ll just make you wait until another reject gets sent in.

Again, you get what you pay for.
1. Spell check failed me.

2. A $3-5k jvc or Sony still can't compare for the money. I have zero issues with my refurb 5040.

3. Epson may very well send out refurb 5050's at some point..

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Epson 5040, 150" 16:9 1.1gain, Source: HTPC w/madVR, Audio: Onkyo RZ 830 avr, 5.1.4 Atmos setup. 5 speaker Energy C Series: L/R C300's, C C-C100, SR/SL C50's, 4 in-ceiling Micca R-8c. Subwoofers: 1 MiniMarty um18 w/NX3000D. 4 diy Slim VBSS 18" Subs w/NX3000D.

Last edited by DavidinGA; 02-16-2020 at 03:12 PM.
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post #18896 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 02:32 PM
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1. You’️re, not your.

2. A $3-5K model from JVC or Sony without all the issues.

3. That’️s 3 years of retuned refurbs that haven’️t been QC tested other than if it fires up with probably more issues than you originally had. Epson won’️t give you a 5050. They’️ll just make you wait until another reject gets sent in.

Again, you get what you pay for.
1. Speed check failed me.

2. A $3-5k jvc or Sony still can't compare for the money. I have zero issues with my refurb 5040.

3. Epson may very well send out refurb 5050's at some point..

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Granted, I factor “pain in the ass” into value, and good luck with that.
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post #18897 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidinGA View Post
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Originally Posted by roland6465 View Post
1. You’️re, not your.

2. A $3-5K model from JVC or Sony without all the issues.

3. That’️s 3 years of retuned refurbs that haven’️t been QC tested other than if it fires up with probably more issues than you originally had. Epson won’️t give you a 5050. They’️ll just make you wait until another reject gets sent in.

Again, you get what you pay for.
1. Speed check failed me.

2. A $3-5k jvc or Sony still can't compare for the money. I have zero issues with my refurb 5040.

3. Epson may very well send out refurb 5050's at some point..

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Granted, I factor “pain in the ass” into value, and good luck with that.
So why are you here? I see no value in your comments in this owner's thread. Cautionary tale for a recommendation elsewhere, sure.
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post #18898 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 03:09 PM
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To warn people of the Epson Refurb Roulette. I played it for 16 months, and I paid full new price and got treated just as badly as the refurb customers.
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post #18899 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 05:57 PM
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In my experience, 1080p vs 4k on the 5040UB is essentially the same. If you were to compare back to back you might see a slight difference, but when watching actual content, native 1080p with Epson's pixel shifting is great. HDR is a far more visible change, if you can manage to get it setup right for your environment. If you go with Digital Cinema, you can get the wider color gamut but the reduction of light from the filter might be too much. The default HDR settings are not great, with the majority of the content being too dark. Before going down the path of calibrating my projector, I had the best luck with HarperVision, but I think that is going to depend on your screen size/color, ambient lighting in environment, and just plain old personal preference. Best way would be to just try the various settings and see what looks better to you.
Which is why you should try a Panasonic UB420 player and let it do the tone mapping.
As many have said it's like getting a new updated PJ.
They cost very little and are a great bargain.
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post #18900 of 19447 Old 02-16-2020, 06:12 PM
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Which is why you should try a Panasonic UB420 player and let it do the tone mapping.
As many have said it's like getting a new updated PJ.
They cost very little and are a great bargain.
There are members who have recently picked up the Panny UB420 at the sale price. Understanding that image quality depends heavily on image size, screen type, and ambient light conditions, would you mind sharing your settings on the 420 and the 5040 so new owners can have a baseline for HDR and tone mapping from which to work from? TIA

Epson: 5040UB | Elite: 115" Fixed Frame CinemaScope (2.35:1) | Onkyo: TX-RZ920 + M-5010 (7.2.4) | Klipsch: RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II, RB-61 II MICCA: M-8C (Atmos) x 6 | SVS: PB16-Ultra x 2 | Philips: BDP7501, Panasonic: DMP UB900, Oppo: UDP-203
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